| How to Break Boards with Your Bare Hands Posted: 22 Mar 2018 05:00 PM PDT Learning how to break boards with your bare hands can be done right at home. Start by conditioning your hands to get them ready for striking, and make sure your board is set up properly and safely. By having confidence in your ability to break the board and following some simple strategies, you'll soon master the martial arts stunt of board-breaking. EditChoosing and Situating the Board - Wrap boards with foam or canvas to condition your hands. Before trying to break a board, you need to start toughening up your hands. Punching a slab of wood for the first time may only result in bloody knuckles, so it's best to prepare your hands before attempting the break. You can do this by wrapping a post or wooden board with foam.[1]
- For a tougher surface, wrap the board in canvas or twine.
- Practice your speed using a punching bag at first. When you break a board, you want your hands aligned correctly and your speed to be fast so that the board will definitely break. Before using boards, practice striking a punching bag to develop the right technique. Practice hitting faster and stronger each time, and hold your hand in the correct position depending on which strike you're using.[2]
- Use boards made out of pine without any knots. Pine is a very soft type of wood, making it ideal for splitting in half with your hand. Look for a pine board that is thick, with a diagonal. Choose a piece of pine that doesn't have any knots in it, as hitting the knots could hurt your hand.[3]
- You can also buy rebreakable boards to practice on that will snap back together once they break. These can be found online and cost $20-$80.
- Secure the board so that it doesn't move. To prevent any hand injuries, you want your piece of pine to stay still when you go to break it. Either have someone hold the board steadily with 2 hands, or place the board evenly on concrete blocks so that the board is stable.
- If someone is holding the board for you, they should have 1 hand on either side of the board, gripping the edges while keeping their fingers out of the way. Their feet should be positioned one in front of the other to provide better stability.
- Spread the concrete blocks out so that there's of board on each block, and make sure the blocks are tall enough so that you don't hurt your hand when striking through.
- Situate the board so that it breaks along the wood's natural grain. A board will split in half much more easily if it's hit along its natural grain. The type of strike you plan on using will dictate how the board should be held.[4]
- For a knife hand strike or straight punch, the grain should be positioned horizontally, being secured on the top and bottom of the board.
- For a palm heel strike, the grain should be going vertically with support on either side.
- Position your body correctly. Your stance is important for making sure your strike is successful. Both of your feet should be planted firmly on the ground, with them spread slightly apart, 1 foot ahead of the other. Your back foot should be supporting 70% of your weight. With correct footwork, your strike will maintain its speed and strength.[5]
- You should be twisting your hips into the strike.
- Measure the distance needed between you and the board. To make sure you're not too close or too far away, check to see if you have a good distance between you and the board. Stand firmly on the ground and then practice throwing out your arm while someone is either holding the board or it's secured on cement blocks.[6]
- When you extend your arm as you would when striking, your hand should reach a few inches beyond the board. If you extend your arm and it just touches the board, you need to move up a couple of inches.
- Make sure your hand is aimed at the center of the board.
EditChoosing a Strike - Use a palm heel strike for your first board break. Palm heel strikes are the best for beginners, as they're easiest on your hands and shouldn't result in any injuries. When using a palm heel strike, tilt your wrist back so that the heel of your palm is out and hold your fingers up to keep them out of the way.[7]
- Be mindful about bending your fingers inwards when doing a palm heel strike — this could cause them to break.
- The board should be held with the grain running vertically and a hand on each side.
- Choose a knife hand strike to break the board with the side of your hand. To do a knife hand strike, hold your hand flat so that it looks like the edge of a knife. Squeeze the sides of your fingers together so that they're touching one another and bend them inwards slightly. You'll strike with the outside edge of your hand, near where your palm is.[8]
- The grain of the board should be running horizontally.
- Opt for a straight punch to break the board with your knuckles. If you want to go with a regular punch when breaking the board, you'll need to line up your wrist so that it's even and you're using the right knuckles. When creating a fist, your palm should be facing downwards. If you bend your wrist inwards too far or strike using just your outer knuckles, you'll end up injuring your hand.[9]
- Don't keep your thumb in the middle of your palm. Place it on the outside of your hand to avoid breaking or injuring it.
- For a straight punch, the grain should be positioned horizontally.
EditBreaking the Board - Release all fears and commit to breaking the board. If you're scared of injuring yourself when you hit the board, you aren't going to be successful. Clear your mind and tell yourself that you will break the board. If you believe this, your hand won't hesitate when it gets close to the board, and your speed shouldn't slow down, resulting in a clean break.[10]
- Focus on speed, not power. While having strong hands won't hurt, the key to a successful board break is your speed. You want to hit the board as fast as possible, as this is what causes the board to break. Practice striking over and over again on either a bag or a board wrapped in foam. Increase your speed each time, striking faster and faster.[11]
- Aim at a point beyond the board. You shouldn't think of the board as your final target — otherwise, your hand will slow down once it gets close to the board, and the board won't break. Focus at a point beyond the board and aim for that spot when you strike. This will keep your momentum going as you strike through the board instead of at it.[12]
- Since you're aiming beyond the board, make sure your distance is set up to reflect this. Your body shouldn't be set up to only reach the board, you should be reaching through beyond the board.
- Yell as you strike to release more energy. The kiai that martial artists often emit when striking is not just for show or to startle the opponent. The contraction of the diaphragm and torso muscles can be used to put more power in your strike. When you yell as you strike, you're releasing stored energy, giving your strike more strength.[13]
- Maintain your follow-through. Once you make contact with the board, you need to keep your momentum going and finish the strike all the way through. If you stop as soon as you feel the board, you might not end up breaking it completely, and you could injure your hand.[14]
- Keep trying if you don't immediately break the board. Not everyone breaks a board on their first try, so don't give up. If you've conditioned your hand, practiced the right technique, and feel confident that you can break the board, you'll be able to. Try not to feel discouraged by failed attempts and keep trying.[15]
- To learn more details behind breaking boards with your bare hands, as well as proper demonstrations and help, enroll in a martial arts class.
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| How to Wash Jeans by Hand Posted: 22 Mar 2018 09:00 AM PDT Hand washing is a great way to extend the life of your favorite pair of jeans. It is a gentler process than machine washing and prevents, or at least slows, the fading and break down of fibers. Choose between hand washing your jeans in cool water or spot cleaning. EditCleaning Your Jeans in the Tub - Fill your bathtub or utility sink with cool to lukewarm water. Make sure the area is clean and that you run enough water to fully submerge your jeans. Wash dark jeans and brand new jeans in cooler water to prevent fading.[1]
- Add a small amount of mild, liquid detergent to the water. Swish the water a bit so the soap is mixed in well.
- Avoid powdered detergent. It doesn't mix well in water that is cool and standing.
- Most liquid detergents will work but a mild, color safe detergent will preserve your jeans' color better.
- In a pinch, you can use baby shampoo, liquid dish detergent, or even white vinegar.[2]
- Place your jeans in the water and swish them around. Use your hands to move the jeans around in the water for 1-2 minutes. Avoid rubbing the fabric against itself. If you have a spot to address, gently rub it with a washcloth instead.
- Soak your jeans for 15-30 minutes. You want to make sure they are fully submerged in the water for the best results. If the jeans are buoyant and floating to the top of the tub, you can place bottles of shampoo and conditioner on top of the jeans in order to hold them down.[3]
- Drain the dirty water and run another tub full. Gently move the jeans around in the clean water and then let them soak for 5-10 minutes.
- Roll or fold the jeans up and press the excess water out of them. Once the rinse water is drained, fold or roll your jeans up lengthwise. Press down with both of your hands, palms open, using the weight of your upper body to compress the jeans at the bottom of the sink or tub. Do this several times, rearranging or flipping them over to get more trapped water out.
- Never wring your jeans. This damages the fibers and contributes to wear and tear.
EditDrying Your Jeans - Air dry your jeans to avoid shrinkage and fading. Stretch jeans out on a drying rack (or another flat surface) or hang them on a line. They will dry faster if they are not folded or hung over an object like a chair or door.
- Air drying your jeans will preserve the fibers for longer than machine drying.
- Air drying will also prevent shrinkage and fading.[4]
- Machine dry your jeans on low heat if you are pinched for time. If you put your jeans in the dryer, make sure to protect them by using a low to medium heat setting. Nothing destroys jean fibers more than high heat electric drying. [5]
- Machine drying will shrink your denim and, over time, fade the color.
- If your favorite jeans are prone to stretching out, machine drying will tighten them back up.
EditSpot Cleaning Your Jeans - Spot clean your jeans to prevent unnecessary wear and tear. Spot cleaning is a good way to care for your jeans and avoid unnecessary wear and tear from over-washing. If your jeans are mostly clean but you spilled something or got a little mud on them, consider spot cleaning to preserve your jeans and save on water.
- Use a dab of mild detergent on a cotton swab or washcloth. Put just a little bit of liquid detergent, baby shampoo, or liquid dish detergent on a damp cotton swab or washcloth.
- Gently rub the stained area until the spot is gone. Use your cotton swab or washcloth to gently rub the jeans in a circular motion. If it's difficult to see if the stain is really gone, you can rinse the spot with a little water to remove the soap for a better look.
- Place a blotter cloth behind the stain. As you rub the stain with a damp cloth, the excess liquid and the stain itself will be absorbed by the blotter cloth behind the material. A paper towel folded up can serve as your blotter cloth if you don't have anything else on hand.[6]
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| How to Keep a Dress Shirt from Riding Up Posted: 22 Mar 2018 01:00 AM PDT If you tend to have trouble keeping your shirt tucked in throughout the day, it may be time to try out a new method of holding it in place. First thing's first—make sure that you're wearing a dress shirt that's been sized and cut specifically for your frame. You can then create a neat, trim profile by folding the excess fabric on the sides of the shirt before you tuck it in. If all else fails, invest in a pair of handy shirt stays or make the switch to a more casual untucked style. EditSwitching to a Military Tuck - Tuck your shirt in like normal. Starting with your pants unbuttoned, push the tail of the shirt down into your waistband. Make sure it's straight and fully extended so there are no wrinkles. You want to start with as crisp and clean a foundation as possible.[1]
- The military tuck will work best with a shirt that reaches at least below your waistband.
- Zipping your pants halfway up (but not buttoning them just yet) may help hold the shirt in place while you carry out the next few steps.
- Grip the excess fabric on the sides of the shirt. Pinch the material between your thumb and forefinger just above your waistline. This will create a small dimple on either side of the fold. The place where you fingers meet will determine how much extra room you have in the shirt.[2]
- Hold the fabric so that it sits close to your body, but not so snug that it pulls.
- Fold the excess fabric back on itself. Pull the material towards your back pockets so that it neatly overlaps the rest of the shirt. Try not to let the shirt tail crinkle or bunch up—the fold should lay perfectly flat in one piece.[3]
- It may be easier (and tidier) to pinch and fold the sides of your shirt one at a time so you can use both hands.
- The crease created by the fold will just barely be visible above your belt, and will be hidden altogether when you have your arms down at your sides.
- Tighten your belt around the shirt. Finish zipping and buttoning your pants like normal. Then, cinch the belt down nice and snug to hold your carefully-arranged shirt tail in place. Use the palm of your hand to gently work out any wrinkles in the fabric around your waistline. [4]
- Avoid tugging at the shirt once it's tucked. This is likely to just make imperfections worse.
- The military tuck is typically tight enough to keep a wayward shirt tail in place throughout the day.
EditClipping on Shirt Stays - Put on your dress shirt and socks. Pull your socks up all the way up so that they sit just below your knees, and button the shirt from the bottom so that it's ready to tuck in. These two garments will provide the base for the shirt stays—the rest of your ensemble can stay in the drawer for now.[5]
- Shirt stays resemble miniature suspenders. The two-armed end is designed to hold the bottom edge of a dress shirt, while the longer end runs down to your socks.[6]
- Attach one end of the shirt stays to the bottom of the shirt. Fasten the two small clips on the "Y" end of the stay to the shirt's hem about apart. Do the same on the opposite side. The shorter straps should rest on either side of your hip bones, with the longer strap reaching down the length of your leg.[7]
- If your shirt stays have sliding clips, make sure the button side is inserted all the way into the metal frame. Give the clip a light tug to test whether it's secure.
- Be careful not to let the fabric of the shirt bunch up between the straps.
- Secure the other clip to the top of your sock. Pull the longer straps down and fasten them on the outsides of your legs. The stays will cause your shirt tail and socks to pull towards each other, creating a little tension in both directions. Not only will this keep your shirt from riding up, it will also keep your socks from falling down![8]
- If you find that the clips keep slipping off your socks, try folding the tops of the socks down about an inch to create a sturdier anchor point.
- Shirt stays tend to be a one-size-fits-all accessory, so anyone can wear them with confidence. However, you may need to shop around for stays with adjustable straps if you're well above average height or have particularly long legs.
- Finish getting dressed. Pull your pants on over your shirt, then button and belt them. Make any last-minute adjustments to the fabric around your waistline as needed. Your shirt should stay put while you get the rest of your outfit together, and throughout your busy afternoon.
- Move around a little to test your range of motion. Every time you bend or lift your arms, the stays will draw your shirt tail right back into place.
- When worn correctly, shirt stays should be comfortable, unobtrusive, and invisible.
- Keep in mind that it may be necessary to unclip your shirt stays when it comes time to use the restroom.[9]
EditTrying Other Useful Tricks - Buy your shirts a little long. When you're trying on dress shirts, make sure the hem comes down at least past your natural waistline. For the cleanest appearance, the endpoint should be right around your wrists when your arms are at your sides. Longer shirts may still bunch up a bit as you move around, but they won't come totally untucked the way shorter ones will.[10]
- Dress shirts with size guides like "fitted" and "modern cut" tend to wear longer than traditional style.
- If you usually have your shirts custom-tailored, specify the exact length that works best for you by stretching a tape measure from the base of your neck to the point you want the shirt tails to reach.[11]
- Have your shirts tailored. Take your baggy, oversized dress shirts to an alterations specialist and have them take in the measurements a few inches. With less material around the truck and waistline, it won't be as noticeable when the shirt comes untucked over time.[12]
- Getting your shirts tailored is a cheap fix. In most shops, it shouldn't cost you more than $10-20 per shirt.
- The most common cause of ruffling, bunching, and wrinkling is simply wearing a shirt that's too big.[13]
- Tuck your undershirt into your underwear. Sometimes, it's a rebellious undershirt that causes a dress shirt to ride up, rather than the cut or material. You can correct this issue by slipping the hem of your t-shirt or tank top into the waistband of your underwear. The outer shirt will be less prone to drifting if the inner one isn't going anywhere.[14]
- Stuffing your undershirt into your underwear may feel a little odd at first, but after a few wears you won't be able to tell the difference.
- Be mindful of the way you're moving. Not all movement can be avoided, but if you can be more conscious of the way you're twisting, turning, and reaching, your carefully-coordinated look has a shot at making it past lunchtime. Resist the urge to stretch too tall or rest your hands behind your head when you're thinking. Remember that the higher your arms go, the higher your hem goes as a result.
- Avoid bending at the waist as much as possible. Leaning too far in any direction will yank your shirt tails right out your pants.
- Switch to a style you can wear untucked. If you're still not having any luck keeping your shirt tails from escaping, it may be time to go shopping. In particular, look for modern cuts with streamlined hems that are designed to be worn in or outside the waistband. One of these styles might make a fashionable substitute to the kind of shirts you're used to wearing, particularly when sported in a business-casual setting.[15]
- The hem of your shirt should ideally hit right around the middle of your back pocket, or just below your zipper.[16]
- When wearing a dress shirt untucked, it's usually acceptable to leave the top 1 or 2 buttons undone.
- A belt should always be your first line of defense against a defiant dress shirt. It's also just good fashion sense.
- For shirts in sizes, cuts, or materials that are bad about bunching, try utilizing more than one method. For example, you might start with a tight military tuck, then use shirt stays to secure the folds and create downward pull.
- Pay attention to your "gig line" while adjusting the shirt around your waistband. This is a military term used to describe the single unbroken line formed by the shirt placket, belt buckle, and front seam of your pants. Getting your gig line down can help you nail that professional, put-together look.
- When worn incorrectly, shirt stays may rub or pinch the sides of your legs. The clips on cheap pairs might even give out mid-use—not the most pleasant way to find out that you've got a wardrobe malfunction!
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