| How to Break in Patent Leather Shoes Posted: 01 Nov 2017 05:00 PM PDT Patent leather shoes, with their distinctive gleam, make a striking and fun addition to any wardrobe. Modern patent leather shoes get their shine from a thin coating of plastic over the leather.[1] Unfortunately, this plastic finish makes patent leather shoes inflexible and difficult to stretch.[2] You can stretch your too-tight patent leathers a little bit with a shoe stretching kit or a little gentle heat from a hair dryer. Minimize the need for breaking in by buying shoes that fit well and taking a few basic measures to protect your feet. EditUsing a Shoe Stretcher - Stretch problem spots with a ball-and-ring stretcher. A ball-and-ring stretcher, which looks a bit like a giant pair of pliers, is designed to give a targeted stretch on one particular part of the shoe. This may be a good solution if your shoe pinches uncomfortably in certain places (e.g., over a bunion). Insert the ball part of the stretcher into the shoe at the point where you want to stretch it out, and squeeze the stretcher shut. Then tighten the clamp on the handles to hold it in place, and leave overnight.[3]
- You may wish to slide a plastic sandwich bag over the outside of your shoe to protect the finish.
- Since patent leather shoes are pretty inflexible, you may need to repeat this process several times to get enough stretch.
- You'll notice a bump on your shoe after you take off the stretcher. As you wear the shoe, this bump will eventually disappear.
- Ball-and-ring stretchers can be pricey, with less expensive models starting at around $40 USD, and more expensive models running around $70 USD.
- Use a two-way stretcher for an overall bigger fit. Two-way shoe stretchers fit into your shoe like a foot, and can be expanded length- and width-wise for an all-around bigger fit. Insert the shoe stretcher into your shoe, and slowly turn the crank to expand the stretcher inside the shoe. Once you have opened up the stretcher to the desired length and width, leave it in the shoe for 24-48 hours.[4]
- Take care not to stretch your shoe too much or too quickly, or you may damage the finish or even cause the top to separate from the sole.[5]
- Gradually add more stretch by expanding the stretcher with one full turn of the crank once every 8 hours.
- Two-way shoe stretchers come in a variety of styles, and some can be fitted with "pressure relief pods" to target problem areas.
- Two-way stretchers are generally less expensive than ball-and-ring stretchers, with lower-end models starting around $10 USD and more expensive models costing around $50 USD.
- Patent leather shoes may need multiple stretching sessions to get the desired effect.
- Use a DIY shoe stretcher. If you're worried that a shoe stretcher might be a bit too harsh on your delicate patent leathers, you can gently expand the inside of your shoe by pushing a rolled-up sock or some wadded up newspaper into the toe and leaving it overnight.[6] For a more all-over stretch, try wrapping up a glass bottle in a soft cloth and pushing it into your shoe.[7]
- Leave it to the professionals if you're worried about your shoes. If you're not confident in your ability to stretch your shoes without damaging them, take them to a shoe repair professional. Someone who is experienced in handling delicate and expensive shoes may have a better idea of how much stretching your shoes can take, and what techniques will work best to get the desired result.
- Skip the shoe-stretching spray. There are a variety of shoe-stretching sprays and treatments available to condition leather and make it easier to stretch. However, the special plastic finish on patent leather shoes will make these treatments ineffective, and these sprays may even damage the finish on your shoes.[8]
EditStretching with a Hair Dryer - Put on a pair of thick socks. Use some heavy thermal socks, or layer on a few pairs of regular cotton crew socks. The thick socks will help force your shoe open a little wider as you stretch it.[9]
- Put on your patent leather shoes. Once the socks are on, squeeze your feet into the shoes you wish to stretch.[10] This may take a bit of effort, but the thick socks will help protect your feet from rubbing and pinching.
- Blow hot air onto your shoe with a hair dryer. With your shoes and socks on, gently pass hot air from a hair dryer over the tight parts of your shoe. Don't do this for more than 20 seconds at a time, since too much heat can damage the leather and the finish. Let your shoes cool down for a bit, and then go over them again.[11] Aim for a total heating time of 2-3 minutes.
- Move and stretch your feet as you heat your shoes. While you are applying the heat, flex your feet inside the shoes. Getting the leather moving will help soften it up and make it more pliable.[12]
- Let your shoes cool off on your feet. Don't yank off your shoes as soon as you're done blasting them with hot air. Allowing the shoes to cool with your feet still in them will help them conform to the size and shape of your feet.[13] Walking around while your shoes are cooling can also help loosen up the leather and mold it to your foot.
- Try your shoes on with regular socks. After you've blasted your shoes with heat a few times and allowed them to cool off, take off your shoes and strip off the extra thick socks. Try your shoes on again with the socks or stockings you would normally wear, and see how they fit.[14] If they still feel a bit tight, repeat the heat treatment. You may need 2-3 treatments to see a difference.
EditProtecting Your Feet - Buy shoes that fit well. Minimize the need for stretching or breaking in by getting patent leather shoes that are already a good fit for you. Since patent leather is stiff and unforgiving, you're not going to be able to change the fit very much – maybe a quarter of a shoe size, at most.[15] Have yourself fitted for shoes in the store, and try on a few pairs before you buy.
- Gradually increase the amount of wear time. You may be tempted to immediately take your new shoes for a night out on the town, but this is a recipe for aching feet. Buy your patent leather shoes in advance of when you plan to wear them, and spend a few days wearing them for short periods at home or at work. Start by wearing them for 10 minutes at a time, and then increase your wear time by another 10 minutes. Keep doing this over several days until you are comfortable wearing (and walking around in) the shoes for a full hour.[16]
- The total break-in time will depend on a lot of factors, including what kind of material the sole is made of and how well the shoes fit to begin with.
- Your shoes may take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to feel comfortable. Shoes with leather soles take longer to break in than shoes with rubber soles.
- The first time you wear your shoes out, try to keep your wear time to no more than 2-3 hours.
- Wear your shoes with thick socks for a while. Thick socks can both stretch the shoes and protect your feet from pinching and blisters as your shoes adjust to your feet (and vice versa). Spend a couple of hours every day wearing your shoes around the house with thick socks. Eventually, the shoes should expand a little and feel more comfortable with regular socks or stockings on.[17]
- Pad the problem areas. While you and your shoes are adjusting to each other, you can minimize your discomfort by putting protective coverings on sensitive spots, such as your heels and any corns, or bunions.[18] Check your pharmacy or shoe store for products that fit your needs, such as:
- Blister cushions.
- Bunion pads.
- Adhesive bandages.
- Surgical tape.
- Hydrate your feet to reduce friction. A lot of shoe-related discomfort is caused by shoes rubbing on your feet. Minimize blisters and friction-related pain by rubbing a little lotion, petroleum jelly, or antiperspirant on your feet before slipping on your shoes. Focus on the spots that tend to get the most irritated.[19]
- Give your feet a break. If your feet start to hurt or develop blisters, give them some time to heal before you wear the shoes again. Consider bringing a comfortable pair of shoes to change into if you have to wear your patent leather shoes for a long stretch of time during the break-in period.
- It's also a good idea to keep adhesive bandages and blister cushions on you, in case you end up stuck without a change of shoes.
- Store your shoes on a shoe tree. Any time you're not wearing your shoes, put them on a shoe tree. A shoe tree is a foot-shaped device, much like a shoe stretcher. The shoe tree will help maintain your shoe's shape when it is not in use, which is very helpful during the break-in period.[20]
- Shoe trees are variable in price and design, but tend to cost anywhere from $10 USD to $35 USD.
- Some shoe trees also function as shoe stretchers.
EditThings You'll Need - Shoe stretcher (ball-and-ring or two-way)
- Thick socks
- Hair dryer
- Blister cushions, surgical tape, or other protective foot covering
- Lotion, petroleum jelly, or antiperspirant
- Shoe tree
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| How to Drain a Dishwasher Posted: 01 Nov 2017 09:00 AM PDT If your dishwasher isn't draining water, you might have a clog on your hands. In addition to drainage problems, a clog and leftover water can cause nasty odors. Fortunately, fixing drainage issues is usually quick and easy. Cleaning your dishwasher's filters is the first and simplest troubleshooting step. If that doesn't help, try checking the drain hose and valve for clogs. If you can't track down the cause on your own, get in touch with an appliance repair specialist. EditServicing Your Dishwasher Safely - Remove the dishes from the dishwasher and place them in the kitchen sink.
- You won't be able to take apart certain parts of the dishwasher to see if there are any problems if there are dishes in the way.
- Make sure you store any sharp knives where they are easily seen, so someone doesn't reach into the sink and cut themselves.
- Turn off the power and water line to the dishwasher. You don't want to work on any appliance with the power connected.[1]
- You can turn off the power by unplugging the dishwasher or shutting off the circuit that the dishwasher is connected to.
- Check under your sink to find the water line that connects to the dishwasher, then turn it off. The water supply is usually a flexible copper line or braided stainless steel.
- Under the sink, you should see valves above that control the sink's water supply, and a lower valve with the line that leads to the dishwasher. Turn off the lower valve that controls the dishwasher.[2]
- Remove the water with containers and towels. Moving a dishwasher full of water can be messy.
- Protect the floor under, and in front of, the dishwasher with old towels.
- Use cups or other containers to scoop out the water and transfer it to the sink drain.
- Use a couple of towels to soak up the last portion of the water. Put these towels in the sink until you are completely finished mopping up the leftover water.
EditCleaning the Filter - Remove the cylindrical filter from the bottom of the dishwasher. Look for a circular filter under the spray arms on the bottom of the dishwasher's interior. Turn it counterclockwise and lift it straight up to remove it from its housing.[3]
- Most modern dishwashers have filters. Every brand and model is a little different, but the removal process is basically the same.
- If you're not sure if you have filters, try searching online for your model number. You'll be able to download your user manual, which will let you know if your dishwasher has filters.[4]
- Remove the coarse filter. Many models have a separate coarse filter, which is a metal plate held in place by the cylindrical filter. Once you've pulled out the cylinder, you can simply slide out the coarse filter.[5]
- On other models, these filter components aren't separate parts. Check your user manual for information about your specific model.[6]
- Check the sump for debris. The sump is the hole where the cylindrical filter slides into that leads to the drain hose. Feel around inside for solid chunks of food, bones, or other debris that might be the causing a clog.[7]
- Clean the filters with hot, soapy water. Take the filters to the sink, and scrub them thoroughly with a sponge and dish detergent. Rinse them well after you've loosened all the caked-up food and grime.[8]
- Reinstall the filters. First, replace the coarse filter. It'll fit into an impression on the bottom of the dishwasher. Once that's in place, insert the cylindrical filter and give it a clockwise twist to secure it.[9]
- Spin the spray arms when you've replaced the filters just to make sure everything is properly aligned.
- Run the dishwasher to see if you solved the problem. Whenever you have an issue with your dishwasher, cleaning the filters should be your first troubleshooting step. After you've cleaned and reinstalled them, run the dishwasher on a short cycle to see if there's any improvement.
- A very small amount of water in the bottom of a dishwasher is normal.
- If the dishwasher is still not draining, you will have to check other parts for malfunction.
- Make sure the dishwasher is cool before checking anything else.
EditChecking the Drain Hose - Pull out the dishwasher from its cabinet area. Use caution when doing this as dishwashers are heavy.[10]
- You can lower the dishwasher using the feet on the front to get more clearance.
- Slide the dishwasher out slowly to prevent gouging your floors.
- Pull it out far enough so you can see and reach behind it.
- Check the drain hose. See if there is a major kink preventing drainage.[11]
- You can access the drain hose by removing the kick plate on the front of the dishwasher. If you disconnected the power and water supply to the dishwasher, you have likely already removed this.
- The drain hose runs from the drain pump on the bottom of the dishwasher to the sink drain or air gap on the sink.
- Use a flashlight to follow the hose to the drainage area. Look for any bends or kinks constraining the line.
- Correct any kinks in the line.
- Take the drain hose off the dishwasher. Examine it to determine whether there are any clogs.[12]
- Place a pan or rag underneath the hose to prevent spills and for easy cleanup.
- A clog of food or other fragments will prevent proper drainage of the machine.
- Clear any blockage you encounter in the hose by running a long flexible brush through it.
- You can also run water from a high powered hose through the drain line to clear any debris.
- After you are done, reconnect the hose.
- Run the dishwasher on a short cycle. This will allow you to see if there is any improvement in draining the water. Running a short cycle will help minimize your water usage.[13]
EditChecking The Drain Valve - Make sure the dishwasher is cooled before attempting to check the drain valve. Parts can become hot during the heating and rinsing cycles.
- This can help you avoid burns from hot parts or steam.
- It will be easier to work on the dishwasher if the parts are cool.
- Locate the drain valve. It may have become stuck closed, preventing water from draining from the dishwasher.[14]
- The drain valve is located underneath the dishwasher behind the front kick panel.
- It is usually by the motor, so you can use that to find its location.
- The valve consists of a gate arm and solenoid (also called a coil)
- Check the gate arm. This is one component of the drain valve. [15]
- The gate arm allows water to drain out of the dishwasher through the valve.
- You should be able to move it freely.
- The gate arm has two springs attached to it. If either spring is damaged or missing, it must be replaced.
- Check the solenoid.The gate arm is engaged by the solenoid. [16]
- The solenoid is connected by two wires.
- Disconnect the solenoid from the wires.
- Test the solenoid for resistance using a multi-tester. Set the tester to the ohms setting X1.
- Place the tester probes on the terminals of the solenoid. A normal reading is 40 ohms. If the reading is significantly different, the solenoid will need to be replaced.
- Give the motor a spin. This is the rotating blade inside the dishwasher.
- Inactivity sometimes causes a dishwasher motor to stick.
- Turning it by hand may take care of this problem and allow water to drain.
- This is something that should be tried before testing the dishwasher again.
- Try the dishwasher to see if it is draining. Run a short cycle so you aren't wasting water.
- If you're still having problems after trying to resolve the issue on your own, call an appliance repair person.
- Dishwasher drain hoses are reasonably priced and available at your average hardware or homeowner's supply store.
- You can order other dishwasher parts from homeowner's supply stores or repair places.
- Make sure you put the drain hose back in place after checking for clogs or water will go all over the place when you turn the dishwasher on.
EditThings You'll Need - Long, thin flexible brush
- Flashlight
- Lubricating oil
- Dishwasher drain hose
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| How to Kill Spider Eggs Posted: 01 Nov 2017 01:00 AM PDT Most of the time, it's easy to deal with spider eggs before they become a problem. Start by trying to identify the spider species. While most spiders are harmless, you should look for characteristics of poisonous spiders to stay on the safe side. If you're dealing with a venomous species or major infestation, it's wise to call in a professional. Usually, vacuuming up spiders and their egg sacs is the easiest and most effective solution. You could also spray a pesticide directly onto spiders and egg sacs. Just make sure your product is oil-based, as water-based pesticides are ineffective against egg sacs. EditRuling out Poisonous Species - Identify the spider and egg sacs to rule out a poisonous species. Almost all spiders are harmless, but there are a few species with bites that require medical attention. If possible, check the egg sacs and any nearby spiders for characteristics of venomous species. Consider calling in a professional to deal with poisonous spiders.
- The various black widow species are distinguished by the red markings, usually in the shape of an hourglass, on their abdomen's underside. They spin funnel-shaped cobwebs, and their egg sacs are beige to yellow, smooth, round, and in diameter.[1]
- Brown widows are venomous, but not as aggressive as black widows. The hourglass-shaped markings under their abdomen can be yellow or orange, and they have dark bands on their legs. Their egg sacs are also beige to yellow, but are covered with little silk spikes.[2]
- Brown recluse spiders have long bodies and slender legs. They are distinguished by a dark, violin-shaped mark on their back, and unlike most spiders, they only have 6 eyes.[3] Their webs are flat, patternless, and sheet-like, and their egg sacs are silky, somewhat rough and irregularly shaped, and average in diameter.[4]
- Have a professional deal with an infestation. It's wise to call in a professional if you have a major infestation on your hands, such as a cellar with spiders and egg sacs at every turn. Among the poisonous species, brown recluse spiders are particularly difficult to control.[5]
- Brown recluse spiders can go months without food or water. Since they're hunting spiders, they wander, hide, and are fast. Spiders that wait in their webs for prey are easier to control.
- Wear protective clothing if you deal with a venomous species yourself. You'll need to protect yourself if you don't feel like hiring a professional just to deal with an egg sac or two. Before heading into battle, put on a pair of work gloves and wear long sleeves and pants.[6]
EditUsing a Vacuum Cleaner - Vacuum up spiders, webs, and egg sacs with a long attachment. In most cases, your vacuum cleaner is your best line of defense against spiders and their egg sacs. If the egg sac is in a vacuum-accessible spot, use an attachment to suck it up along with any nearby spiders.[7]
- Empty the vacuum bag outdoors. Take your vacuum outside to remove the bag. If it's disposable, just seal it and throw it in a lidded outdoor trash container. If the chamber's non-disposable, carefully empty it into a trash bag, seal the bag, and toss it an outdoor garbage bin.[8]
- Spiders are fragile, so vacuuming one up will easily kill it. However, the egg sac offers a little more protection, so eggs or spiderlings might survive.
- Freeze the bag if you're dealing with a venomous species. You might want to take extra precautions if you're dealing with poisonous spiders. If possible, stick the vacuum bag in a freezer chest or cooler for several hours before you throw it in the garbage.[9]
- Give your freezer chest or cooler a good cleaning when you're finished.
EditUsing an Oil-Based Pesticide - Purchase an oil-based aerosol pesticide instead of a water-based product. Pesticide might be the way to go if the egg sac isn't in a vacuum-accessible spot, if you don't have a vacuum, or if you just don't want to deal with lugging around the vacuum. Look online or at your home improvement store for a oil or petroleum-based product.[10]
- Since egg sacs are water repellent, water-based pesticides are ineffective.
- Go for a direct aerosol, or spray, product. Foggers are also ineffective against spiders.
- Follow safety precautions when using potentially dangerous chemicals. Stay on the safe side and wear gloves, long sleeves, and a breathing mask. If you have pets, check your product's safety warnings for information about keeping animals away from treated areas.[11]
- Spray spiders and egg sacs directly. Spray the affected areas according to your product's instructions. Even after using a pesticide, it's best to sweep or vacuum the treated area.[12]
- Oil-based products are highly effective egg killers, but you don't want to take any chances. In addition, if you just leave a web intact, it might trap insects and attract other spiders.
- Put down sticky traps if you're dealing with hunting spiders. Sticky traps are basically pieces of cardboard covered with adhesive. If you've seen hunting spiders that run around on the floor, such as wolf or brown recluse spiders, place sticky traps along walls, behind furniture, and at potential entry points, like near cellar or garage doors.[13]
- Pesticides are more effective against web-weavers than hunting spiders, which can just run away from chemical spray.
- If you've sprayed an egg sac but the mother spider scurried away, you might have another egg sac on your hands sooner rather than later. Most spiders only need to mate once in their life, but can produce up to 5 egg sacs.
- Consider having an exterminator put down a chemical barrier. If you continue to have problems, a pesticide barrier around your home could be your best solution. If you're dealing with a hunting species, you or the exterminator should also put down sticky traps.[14]
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