| How to Pack a Desktop Computer for Moving Posted: 06 Feb 2021 04:00 PM PST Moving a bulky desktop PC may seem like a daunting task. While there are a few things you need to keep in mind while you pack, this process shouldn't prove to be super difficult. In general, the key thing you want to watch out for is static electricity. Many PC components inside of the computer can be damaged by static electricity, so don't pack your desktop computer on a carpeted floor, don't wear socks while you do this, and touch a metal doorknob or appliance before you get started to discharge any static buildup.[1] [Edit]Desktop Tower - Turn the computer off and take the cables out. Shut your computer down first. Then, flip the power switch at the back of your PC (if you have one). Unplug the power cable and set it aside. Next, unplug your keyboard, monitor, ethernet connection, and any other USB connections you may have plugged in to the tower.[2]
- Backup any important files before moving. While your computer will probably be fine, you'll want a backup if the computer gets damaged in the move.[3]
- Don't pack the cables in the same box as the PC, as tempting as that may be. Set them aside together to be sorted and packed separately later.
- This process applies to any kind of computer tower. However, if you're moving a gaming PC, skip down to the last section of the article if you want to take additional steps to keep your investment safe.
- Reinforce the bottom of a big box with packing tape and clothes. Find a box that's big enough to hold the tower with a little bit of extra space left over. Flip the box upside down and use packing tape to reinforce the box. Cover each seam multiple times and pull the tape as taut as possible to keep the bottom from falling out. Then, flip the box back over and line the bottom of the box with clean, soft towels or clothes.[4]
- If you still have the original box the computer came in, use that. Those boxes tend to be pretty strong, even after you've torn them open to remove the PC.
- Dust is a computer's worst enemy. If your box has been sitting out for weeks collecting dust while you've been packing, vacuum the inside of the box.[5]
- Wrap the tower in a blanket or anti-static bubble wrap. You can wrap a large moving blanket around the computer, or buy some anti-static bubble wrap and wrap that around the tower. Secure the blanket or bubble wrap with packing tape. If you want some additional support, wrap the tower in another layer of fabric and tape it tight.[6]
- You can use clothing items or towels instead of a moving blanket or anti-static bubble wrap if you prefer. Just don't use wool, which has a particular affinity for static electricity.
- Do not use regular bubble wrap, which attracts static electricity. Your hard drive and graphics card are especially at risk if your computer is exposed to a lot of static buildup.
- Set the tower inside of the box right-side up. Carefully lift your tower up and set it in the middle of your cardboard box. Do not pack your computer on its side or upside-down. If you can't get the tower to rest evenly inside of the box, take it out and move the clothing around at the bottom to even it out.[7]
- Hold the computer with two hands while you're lifting it and just go slow here.
- If you're packing a gaming PC, do not put any pressure on the fiberglass panel. You can shatter this side if you apply too much pressure to it.
- Fill in the remaining empty space with clothes or packing paper. If there's any leftover space, fill it in with towels, clothes, packing paper, or foam. This will keep your computer from sliding around in the box or tipping the box over when it's in transport.[8]
- Close the box and tape it down before labelling it. Once the empty space inside of the box is filled in, close the top of the box and tape it up. Write "fragile" and "computer" all over the box in large, capital letters. Whether you're hiring movers or moving on your own, this will keep anyone from accidentally mishandling your computer.[9]
- If your hiring movers, ask them not to put anything on top of your computer. If you're packing the truck yourself, set the box somewhere secure and don't set anything down on top of the box.
[Edit]Computer Accessories - Wrap your cables and label them before putting them in a box. Untangle each cable and softly loop them around themselves so that you aren't bending them. Secure each cable with Velcro straps, rubber bands, or zip ties. Pack your cables together in a small cardboard box.[10]
- You should be able to figure out which cable goes where with a few minutes of guesswork when you unpack. However, if you have a ton of electronics and a variety of cables, label them. Wrap a piece of tape around each cable and jot down what the cable is for in permanent marker.
- Don't wrap the cables so tight that they're putting a ton of pressure on them.
- Pack your monitor with cardboard, cloth, and packing tape. Unplug your monitor and grab a thick piece of cardboard. Hold it over the screen and trace the monitor. Then, cut the cardboard out with a utility knife or scissors. Tape the cardboard around the edges of the monitor to protect the screen. Then, wrap the monitor in bubble wrap, a blanket, or cloth before wrapping tape around the monitor. Set your monitor down in a single, well-stuffed cardboard box with the screen facing up.[11]
- Write "fragile" and "computer screen" on the box (movers and moving buddies may not know what a monitor is).
- You can stuff your box with packing paper, packing peanuts, clothing, or foam. So long as the screen is covered and it's facing up in the box, it shouldn't really matter.
- If the stand for your monitor is removable, unscrew the stand and pack it separately.
- Do not use newspaper to pack your monitor. The ink can rub off on the screen, and the texture may scratch your monitor.
- Wrap your keyboard loosely in cloth or paper to protect the keys. Loosely wrap the cable for your keyboard around the keys. Use a small piece of tape to pin the end of the cable to the back of the keyboard. Then, grab a soft blanket, sweater, or packing paper and wrap it gently around the keyboard. Don't worry about taping the protective layer down. Set the keyboard inside of a small box with the keys facing up and tape the box closed.[12]
- Write "keyboard" on the box. If it's a higher-end keyboard, write "fragile."
- Pillowcases are perfect for keyboards if you're trying to pack your clothing and bed sheets efficiently. Slide the keyboard inside of a pillowcase, fold it around a few times, and repeat the process with 2-3 more pillowcases.
- You can pack the keyboard with other items so long as nothing is resting on top of the keys and the other items aren't especially heavy.
- If you have a really high-end mechanical keyboard, consider investing in a protective sleeve or case for it. This is really the best way to transport a nicer keyboard.
- Use packing paper to wrap your headphones, speakers, and mouse. Your headphones, computer speakers, and mouse aren't as fragile as the screen, tower, or keyboard. Just wrap each item up in clothing or packing paper and set them in a box together. Fill in any excess space with packing peanuts, paper, or clothing.[13]
- Label the box "speakers, headphones, and mouse," or "accessories."
- You do not need separate boxes for these components. Altogether, you should have 4 boxes here: 1 for the cables, 1 for the monitor, 1 for the keyboard, and 1 for your headphones, speakers, and mouse.
[Edit]Gaming Tower Disassembly - Disassemble your gaming PC components if you want to keep them safe on long moves. If you own a gaming PC, it may be a good idea to protect some of the interior components by taking them out of the case before you wrap the tower up and put it in a box. However, this is not mandatory—it's just an added set of steps to make sure your investment stays safe if movers are handling your PC or you're making a longer trip.[14]
- If you built the PC yourself, this should be fairly easy for you since you installed the components yourself.
- If you purchased a pre-built PC, don't remove anything you aren't comfortable taking out. Taking things out can do more harm than good if you aren't really sure what you're doing.
- If you're moving the PC yourself and you can keep an eye on it the entire time you're moving, this is probably unnecessary.
- It's a good idea to take some of the components out if movers will be handling the box with the PC in it or you're moving somewhere far (like another state or country).
- Take the fiberglass panel off using the knobs or a screwdriver. Unplug everything and set your tower down on its side with the fiberglass panel facing up. If your gaming case has knobs on the fiberglass panel, twist them counterclockwise to remove the glass. If there are screws, grab a screwdriver and remove them to slide the glass out of the frame.[15]
- Set the fiberglass flat on a clean blanket to keep it from getting scratched up.
- This is a great opportunity to clear out any dust. Just hit the inside of the computer with some canned air to clean it out. Just make sure you put a gentle finger on the fan blades when blowing air on them to keep them from spinning.
- Grab some anti-static bags to pack anything you're taking out. Every gaming PC has different components, and you don't need to remove all of them. Buy some anti-static bags to protect the individual components. After you take a component out, set it inside of an anti-static bag and then pack it separately in a small box that's cushioned by clothes or towels.[16]
- As a rule of thumb, the bigger the component, the safer your PC will be if you remove it. If you don't and the PC gets knocked around in the box, the bigger components may break or fall out of their slots.
- Take your graphics card (GPU) out to keep the biggest component safe. This is almost always the heaviest component in your computer.[17] Pull out the cables connecting the GPU to the battery and unscrew the screws holding it in the case. Then, press or flip the clip on top of the GPU that connects it to the motherboard to unlock it. Slide the GPU out of the case.[18]
- The GPU is usually located at mid-height in your case near the left. It's the larger horizontal piece, and it may say "Nvidia" or "GeForce" or "MSI" on it.
- Remove the CPU cooler if you don't have a liquid cooling system. Pull out the cable connecting the cooler to the motherboard. Then, unclip the tab holding it in place (for an AMD CPU) or unscrew the four screws holding it in the case (for an Intel CPU). Gently lift the cooler out of its slot and bag it up.[19]
- The CPU cooler is almost always going to be the only fan in your PC that isn't facing the same direction as the rest of the fans in your PC. It's located on top of your motherboard, which is usually above the graphics card.
- If you have liquid cooling, do not take the system out—it's not especially heavy and the tubes are hard to remove.
- You will have to reapply the thermal paste before reinstalling the CPU cooler if you take it out.
- Take the hard drive out if you want to be extra safe. This process differs from model to model, and case to case. You typically unscrew the back panel and then slide the hard drive out of the back after unplugging it from the power supply. In some PCs, you can remove it the same way you took the graphics card out.[20]
- If your hard drive is properly mounted and it is snug inside of your PC, feel free to leave it inside of your case.
- Wrap a zip tie or rubber band around the RAM casings. To keep your RAM from popping out during transport, grab a zip tie or large rubber band. Wrap it around the plastic case where the RAM cards connect to the motherboard. Gently release the rubber band or softly tighten the zip tie to apply slight pressure to the RAM casings.[21]
- This will ensure that your RAM cards are secure inside of the case and don't pop out while you're in transit.
- You can take the RAM cards out if you really want, but they should be fine if you just leave them in the case with a little added support from a zip tie or rubber band.
- Tie or tape down loose cables inside of the case. For every cable that you unplug from a component, peel off a small piece of electrical tape and adhere the cable to any empty space in your case. This will keep the cables from flying around in your case and damaging other parts of your computer.[22]
- If your power supply is at the bottom of the case, you can tape the cables on top of the power supply's cover.
- Stuff the inside of the PC with packing paper and close the case. Grab a ton of packing paper and start crumpling it up. Fill in all of the empty space inside of the case gently. Slide paper comfortably between any components that that may come loose. Once your case is relatively full of paper, put the fiberglass side back on the computer and pack the tower as described in the first section.[23]
- When your case was shipped to you or you bought your PC, the inside was filled with expanding foam. You can buy this foam if you'd like, but it's kind of expensive and unnecessary unless you're shipping the computer internationally.
- You can also cut up a pool noodle and use that to fill in the computer.
- If you're worried about the computer being damaged in the move, back your files up on an external hard drive before you pack it up.[24]
[Edit]Warnings - If you're packing gaming PC components you've removed, you absolutely must use anti-static bags. Many of these components will fail if they're exposed to static electricity, and you don't want to replace that $500 graphics card![25]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Desktop Tower - Cardboard box
- Packing tape
- Anti-static bubble wrap, blankets, or clothes
- Packing paper
- Permanent marker
[Edit]Accessories - Zip ties or rubber bands
- Tape
- Cardboard boxes
- Clothes
- Packing paper
[Edit]Gaming Computer Disassembly - Screwdriver
- Canned air (optional)
- Anti-static bags
- Electrical tape
- Packing paper
[Edit]References |
| How to Take Care of a Beagle Puppy Posted: 06 Feb 2021 08:00 AM PST Beagle dogs can be delightful pets but they do require a lot of training and care. Beagles are descended from working dogs, whose purpose was to hunt. This means they have a hard-wired instinct to run, sniff, and generally be active all day. Before you adopt a beagle puppy you need to be sure you can deal with their high level of energy.[1] Taking good care of a beagle puppy means you must commit to the giving the pup the exercise, attention, and mental stimulation that a beagle needs, in addition to the basic care every puppy needs. [Edit]Preparing to Bring a Puppy Home - Know what to expect from a beagle generally. Keep in mind that a beagle is a hunting dog. When you understand how a beagle's mind works you can then make sure you put everything in place to satisfy your puppy's needs (mental and physical) so they grow up into a well-adjusted, content, and fulfilled adult dog. [2]
- For example, a beagle's hunting instincts means they are hugely inquisitive and will have their nose into everything whether it's their business or not.
- Puppy proof your house. Before bringing your puppy home, you should always make sure your house is "puppy proof." Pick up any garbage on the floor, personal items, food that is not for puppies or dogs, and other object that your puppy can swallow and/or choke on. Basically, it's essential to puppy proof the house because anything that isn't tidied away out of reach will be explored by the puppy's mouth and teeth.
- Introduce yourself to the puppy. If you can't bring the puppy home right away, visit it often so that it will become comfortable around you. Many breeders will allow this, as it is good to get the puppy acclimated to you.
- Clearly this depends greatly on where and who you are adopting the puppy from. If you are adopting a puppy from a pound, for example, you should take it home quickly. If, on the other hand, you are adopting the puppy from a wonderful breeder, you should leave the puppy with its mother for as long as the breeder recommends.
- Buy supplies. Before bringing home a puppy you will need to get a lot of supplies. Here is a list to get you started:
 - Food and water bowls: Bowls should preferably be stainless steel or ceramic, as these can be put in a dishwasher and the surface is easy to keep hygienically clean.
- A dog bed: The bed should be soft and snuggly, to help puppy feel safe. Choose one with a washable cover and consider getting two beds, so you can have one in the wash and one for puppy.
- Puppy pads: These are disposable absorbable pads that are useful for the inevitable toilet training accidents.
- Disinfectant and household gloves: These can be used for cleaning up after accidents. Choose an enzymatic cleaner and avoid those containing bleach or ammonia as this can amplify the scent of urine and inadvertently attract puppy back to that spot[3]
- A crate: Choose a crate that allows the beagle to stand up and lie with its legs outstretched. If the adult-sized crate is too big, devise a barrier to partition the crate to make it the correct size for the puppy. If a puppy has too much room it may use part of it as a bathroom area.[4]
- A collar and tag. Get a nylon collar and metal tag. The metal tag will be a good identifier if the puppy gets loose. Start using a collar at 6 months of age at the least. Remember when sizing the collar that puppies will grow.
- Harness and leash: It is great to get your puppy used to these from the start. They also help control the dog in the yard, so it doesn't run off when you are trying to toilet train it.
- Toys: Beagle puppies are avid chewers, so make sure all toys are certified as safe. Check toys regularly to see if they are damaged and discard if necessary. Remember stuffing, a toy's eye or nose, or even the squeaker inside could potentially cause a bowel obstruction if swallowed, so don't take that risk.
- Puppy treats: Make sure you get some soft and some crunchy treats. The crunchy treats will help clean tartar off your puppy's teeth, and the soft ones are good for using while training.
- Puppy food: Make sure you get the food it has already been eating if at all possible.
- Basic grooming tools: Get a bristle brush, comb, rubber gloves, nail clippers, dog shampoo, dog conditioner, dog toothpaste, toothbrush, and towels.
[Edit]Bringing Your Puppy Home - Take the puppy straight to a predetermined toilet spot when you bring it home. This is the place where you want it go to the bathroom. Pop the pup on the toilet spot and if it happens to squat down. If it does, give it lots of praise and a treat so that the puppy begins to associate that spot with the right place to go to the toilet.[5][6]
- Walk your puppy around its new yard, and neighborhood before going inside. This will get it associated with the area and define its new territory.[7]
- Bring the puppy indoors but keep things low key. Don't go crazy and shower it will love just yet. You need to give it time to adjust to its new home. Have any kids sit quietly and let the puppy go to them, so that it doesn't feel overwhelmed. Remember to keep a close eye on the puppy and at the first sign of it sniffing to toilet pop it outside on the toilet spot, and reward it for going.[8]
- Keep the puppy on a leash and give it a tour of its new home. Once you bring your puppy home, show it around the house. This way the puppy will feel more comfortable knowing where everything is. This doesn't mean that you should let the puppy in every room right away, so just show it the rooms it will be allowed in.[9]
[Edit]Feeding Your Beagle Puppy - Ask the breeder for 4 - 5 days worth of the food the puppy has been eating. This is so it can eat something familiar that its tummy is used to digesting. Make a gradual change over to the food you select, once the puppy has had one or two days to get used to its new home.[10]
- To make this change add in a little of the new food (say ¼) and cut down on its previous diet (to ¾). Over 2 - 3 days further increase the amount of new food as you wean the puppy off the original diet. This gives the bugs in its tummy a chance to change over so that it doesn't get diarrhea because of a sudden change of food.
- Choose a food labelled as "Growth" or "Puppy" so that the youngster gets the right balance of calcium and protein for growth. Examine the label on the food packaging and check that a named meat, such as chicken, beef, or lamb, heads the list. This means the main ingredient is that named meat and is an indication of quality. Avoid foods which list cereals as the main ingredient and also "meat-by-products," since these are the less nutritional parts.
- Once puppy is a year old switch it onto adult food.
- Feed your puppy on a consistent schedule. For a puppy under 12 weeks of age feed the recommended quantity of food (as per the pack instructions) divided into 4 meals spaced over the day. For a puppy aged 3 - 6 months divide his daily allowance into 3 meals. For six months or over feed 2 meals a day.
- Once the puppy is one year old you have the option of feeding it just once a day.
- Don't give the puppy lots of extra treats or food. Remember that beagles are exceptionally greedy. The beagle has no concept of when it is full, so don't give into that appealing expression and give it extra food. Also, make sure all food is kept out of reach and in a sealed container, because your puppy will relish the challenge of finding a way to break into a food bin.[11]
- However, the good news is that beagles are highly motivated by food which gives you an excellent training tool.
- Take your puppy outside after eating. Be aware that after puppy has eaten, approximately 10 - 20 minutes later, it will get the urge to toilet.[12] Put the puppy outside after a meal and remember to stay with it so that you are there to praise it when it goes.
- Wash your puppy's food bowls daily with warm water and a little dish soap. Or, just throw them in the dishwasher. Washing food bowls prevents illness, bacteria from growing, and it makes each mealtime more enjoyable.
[Edit]Exercising your Beagle Puppy - Give your puppy lots of gentle exercise. Beagles are energetic dogs that need plenty of exercise but be gentle with your growing dog's joints. The growing joint is more vulnerable to injury. To avoid this, much like an athlete warms up before a race, walk your puppy for 5 minutes before playing games of chase or fetch with it.[13]
- Don't exercise your puppy to the point of exhaustion. A good rule of thumb is never to exercise your puppy past the point where it drags itself along. If its muscles are tired, the puppy will stop supporting the joints. This is when it is most likely to injure its joints. If the puppy still has a spring in its step then you are OK.
- Be wary of over exercise until the puppy has reached its adult size, at 12 - 18 months of age.
- Walk your puppy on a short, 5-minute walk every day. Any more will make it too tired and hurt its joints. Exercise the puppy additionally by playing fetch or tugging on toys.
- Spend as much time as you can with your puppy. It won't be little for long, so take advantage of this time by playing and exercising with the puppy on a regular basis.
- Don't leave your puppy outside by itself. Your beagle puppy will not exercise itself as well as if you get involved with it. Also, beagles love to wander and explore by themselves. This means that an unattended beagle in the yard may worm its way through or under a fence and go exploring. They are first class diggers and climbers so never assume your fence is secure. [14]
- If your puppy truly can't escape be aware that frustration may cause the pup to bay or howl. Your best bet to prevent this is plenty of exercise and mental stimulation so that it is contentedly tired and doesn't feel bored or frustrated.
[Edit]Training Your Beagle Puppy - Start training your puppy early. The beagle's stubborn temperament makes it important to start training early so that it learns to listen to you. Incorporate training into everyday activities, such as getting the puppy to sit before putting its food down or putting its leash on. Keep actual training sessions short when puppy is very young, just 5 - 10 minutes when it is less than four months old.
- Use reward-based training. Don't punish your puppy. It will only associate the punishment with you (and become wary of you) rather than what it did wrong. Instead, give rewards when the puppy does something right. Be sure to give your puppy lots of love, attention and gentle guidance about good behavior.
- Train your puppy basic obedience commands. This will make your dog more enjoyable to be around in the long term. Begin by teaching your dog to sit. Then begin training the puppy to come when called and to stay on command. You will also want to start potty training the puppy the day you get it.
- Take your puppy on regular car rides to get it used to traveling with you. Otherwise, every time you get in the car it might think it is going to the vet. Then, the puppy will start whining and you will get frustrated.
- Socialize your puppy early. Bring it to a puppy obedience class once a week. This will help the dog learn how to act around unfamiliar dogs and people.
- However, don't expose your puppy to other dogs before it receives its vaccinations.
- Teach your puppy to be happy in a crate. The puppy with have a natural instinct to feel safe in a den and the crate becomes its go-to place to take time out and feel safe. Start by putting a blanket in the crate that smells of the puppy's mother, and also hide treats in the crate so that the puppy willingly goes and associates it with good things.
- Also, feed the puppy in the crate. At first feed with the door open. Once it goes in of its own accord, shut the door for a few seconds, open the door, and then praise the pup afterwards for being so good. Gradually build up the amount of time the door stays shut until you can leave the puppy for up to four hours at a time and it won't get distressed.[15]
- Leave a radio on for your puppy when not at home. This will make him feel safer.
[Edit]Caring For Your Puppy's Health - Get your puppy vaccinated. Schedule vet appointments for the proper vaccinations starting at 6-8 weeks of age. Your veterinarian will advise you about specific disease risks in your area and which diseases to vaccinate puppy against.
- Also discuss desexing with your vet so you can decide on what's best for your dog.
- Schedule a vet check-up for your puppy at least every six months. It's important to take your puppy to the vet regularly so that any problems can be spotted early. Caring for your puppy also means giving regular preventative healthcare treatments, such as heartworm, flea, and tick medications.
- Teach your puppy that going to the vet is an enjoyable (or at least tolerable) experience. Bring treats with you so you can give them to the puppy while you are there. If you take your puppy to the vet from an early age, it will get more used to the situation.
- Consider having a microchip implanted under your puppy's skin. This is a quick injection that inserts a small microchip into the skin. Each chip has a unique ID number which is registered against your details and is proof of ownership. This is especially appropriate for a beagle because if he escapes and goes walkabout, when he is handed into a dog pound they can scan the chip, find out who he belongs to and reunite you.
[Edit]Grooming Your Beagle Puppy - Groom your puppy every day. Use a bristle brush to remove shed hair and make its coat shine. Also include a dog-toothbrush and toothpaste in your grooming tools so that you can get the pup used to having its teeth brushed right away.
- Clean your puppy's eyes and ears. Clean its eyes daily to prevent infections and tear stains. Even breeds without white coats can get tear stains and inflammation of the skin around the eye. Clean ears bi-weekly to prevent wax and stink.
- Bathe your puppy when it gets dirty. Be careful to keep water temperature not too warm, and do not bathe your puppy too frequently. Frequent bathing will dry out its skin.
- Use a mild shampoo, such as a moisturizing oatmeal shampoo. Never use products designed for human use, as the pH of dog skin differs and the human shampoo will have an excessively drying effect.
[Edit]Warnings - Do not leave anything lying around that your puppy could choke on
- Do not train your puppy too late. It may become a HUGE problem if trained later. Start earlier!
- You should not buy a puppy younger than eight weeks old, as it should not be separated from its mother before that age.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Protect Crops from Heavy Rain Posted: 06 Feb 2021 12:00 AM PST Naturally, if you grow any type of crops, you want steady rainfall to keep them healthy. Heavy rains, however, can damage or drown your plants, which you definitely don't want! Luckily, farmers have dealt with this problem for thousands of years and have some easy tricks to protect crops during storms. Try these tips for yourself to keep your garden or farm in tip-top shape. [Edit]Preventing Plant Damage - Spread a fabric plant covering above crop rows. Raindrops can do a lot of damage to plants and soil if they're moving at full-speed, so anything that slows them down will help. Plant coverings are like tubes that cover rows of plants, and you can find them at any garden store. Spread these covers over all your crops before a rainstorm to slow the raindrops and prevent damage.[1]
- You could also use a plain fabric sheet. Attach the sheet corners to stakes and drive the stakes into the ground to keep the plants covered.
- If you're expecting heavy winds too, then a strong plastic covering is best. This blocks the rain and also protects the plants from wind damage.[2]
- Cover individual plants with pots or buckets. Simply flip the pot or bucket upside down and place it over individual plants. Weigh the buckets down with heavy rocks so they stay in place during the storm.[3]
- Make sure the bucket is tall enough for the plant to fit under. If the top of the plant presses against the bucket, the stem could break.
- Stake plants with stems so they don't break in the wind. Wind often goes along with heavy rain, which could snap plants with stems. Drive a wooden stake into the ground next to any stemmed plants. Make sure the stake is a bit taller than the plant. Then attach the plant stem to the stake with string or twist-ties to support them during the storm.[4]
- Staking is helpful even if you're not expecting a storm. It supports the plant and prevents the stem from bending or breaking as the plant grows.
- Avoid planting trees near your crops. You don't want your crops getting crushed! Branches can break during storms, and the whole tree could even fall if the wind is strong enough. When you're planting new trees, keep them far away from your crop area to protect the plants.[5]
- If you do have trees near your crops, inspect them regularly and remove any old or unstable limbs. These are most likely to fall in a storm.[6]
[Edit]Stopping Soil Erosion - Lay mulch around the base of your plants to protect the soil. Get an organic mulch and spread a layer thick around all of your crops. This slows the rainfall and helps prevent soil and root damage during heavy storms. As a bonus, mulch helps control weeds and keeps your soil moist.[7]
- You can also use straw, wood chips, or a similar material as mulch.[8]
- Plant cover crops in bare areas. Cover crops act similarly to mulch, and prevent raindrops from hitting the soil at full force. Plant these crops in bare areas around your crops, as well as any sloped areas that rainwater might flow over.[9] One of the most popular cover crops is sorghum, but any type of grassy plant will do the trick.[10]
- Cover crops also help prevent soil erosion and runoff, so they're very beneficial for your field.
- This is a useful technique for no-till farming, since you can control the water flow without cutting drainage channels and ditches.
- Add trees and shrubs to upland areas to stop runoff. If you have any hills or raised areas around your crops, then rainwater could flow down and drown your plants. Planting some trees and shrubbery around these spots will block some of that water and prevent harmful runoff.[11]
- Even if the trees and shrubs don't completely block the water from flowing, they're still helpful because they slow the water down. Fast-moving water can damage roots and sweep away crops.
- The root systems from these plants are also good for preventing soil erosion.
- Leave some crop residue on the soil after harvesting for extra cover. Crop residue is all the leftovers from harvesting, like leaves, stalks, and roots. Leaving about 30% of that residue on the soil helps reduce the impact from rainfall. Try not to be too tidy when you're harvesting![12]
- You can use this technique alongside mulching, or just skip the mulch and try this instead.
[Edit]Improving Drainage - Cut a drainage ditch at the end of each crop row. If your crop field doesn't drain well, then water could pool underneath your crops and cause root rot. Try cutting a ditch at each end of a crop row to help that water drain.[13] Dig a ditch up to deep so the water has a place to flow.[14]
- If you practice no-till farming, then this isn't a good technique to use. In this case, it's better to protect the soil with mulch or cover crops.
- Dig ditches between crop rows if the soil still isn't draining. If the soil under your crops is still waterlogged after you cut a ditch, then you probably need a bit more drainage improvement. Dig a ditch up to deep between each crop row and connect it with the ditches at the end of the row. This should help the water drain much better.[15]
- This is also a tilling technique, so it won't work for no-till farming.
- Redirect water flows with dikes around your crops. Use either stones, soil, or sandbags and surround your crops with a dike, similar to a retaining wall, to block runoff from flooding your crops. This is especially useful if there are hills or elevated areas around your field.[16]
- You could combine this trick with another one, like using the dike to direct water into a drainage ditch.
- If you build a dike with soil, plant some grass on it. The roots will help keep it in place and prevent erosion.[17]
- Build raised beds for more delicate plants or flooded areas. Raised planting beds can help you overcome these problems. Plan out a box deep and fill it with soil. Then plant your crops in this box so their roots are elevated and won't get flooded.[18]
- This is a good trick for delicate plants like tomatoes in a vegetable garden.
- Raised beds are also good for very wet areas with a lot of rainfall.
[Edit]Recovering After Rains - Monitor your plants for signs of rot or mold after a storm. Moist, warm conditions are ideal for mold to grow, so your plants are at risk right after a storm. Check your crops regularly after heavy rains until everything dries out. Look for dark, bruised spots, which could mean mold is starting to grow.[19]
- If you do see any mold or diseased sections on your plants, cut them off as soon as possible before the infection spreads.
- Prune damaged crop limbs when the plants are dry. Damaged sections are more susceptible to mold and disease, so prune those parts back if you see any. But wait until the plants are dry before pruning, since moisture helps mold grow.[20]
- Sterilize your clippers after every cut with a 10% bleach solution or rubbing alcohol. This prevents mold and bacteria from spreading to other plants.
- Spread salt or pesticide to repel slugs from wet crops. Slugs and snails usually flock to wet crops, especially after a rain storm, and they can be especially destructive. Unfortunately, they're tough to get rid of. The most common tricks are sprinkling some salt around wet crops to block slugs and snails, or applying a pesticide barrier to repel them.[21]
- There are also slug traps, if these repellent methods haven't worked.
- Always follow the directions on any chemicals you use to repel slugs and snails.
- Some pesticides are hazardous or toxic, so keep animals away from them.
- Remove saturated mulch and residue if it isn't drying out. While mulch helps protect your soil, it could also support mold and bacteria if it's soaked. If there was a heavy storm and your mulch is saturated, rake it up and let the soil dry out. When the soil is dry again, spread fresh mulch or residue.[22]
- Avoid stepping on flooded areas to prevent root damage. The wet soil is softer, so stepping on it compresses the plant roots and could damage them. Until the soil dries out, walk on it as little as possible.[23]
- Wait until next season to fertilize again. You might think that re-fertilizing your crops after rain is a good idea, but it actually won't help them recover any better. Wait until the next planting season to apply more fertilizer, as you normally would at the beginning of each season.[24]
- Reapplying fertilizer can also be harmful because the next rainstorm will flush the chemicals into local water sources.
- Root vegetables usually resist flooding much better than other crops, so you may want to add some of these to your garden.[25]
[Edit]References |
No comments:
Post a Comment