| How to Make Homemade Vanilla Custard Without an Ice Cream Maker Posted: 04 Oct 2017 05:00 PM PDT Are you in need of vanilla ice cream, but just don't want to go to the ice cream shop every time? How about if you don't have an ice cream maker? Or you don't want refined sugar in it, either? There is a quick and easy solution for all of those needs! EditIngredients - 32 ounces (4 cups) of heavy whipping cream
- 12 ounces (1.5 cups) of milk
- 7 egg yolks
- 7 ounces (5/6 cup) of honey
- 1 tablespoon of pure vanilla extract
- Mix 12 ounces (1.5 cups) of heavy whipping cream with 12 ounces (1.5 cups) of milk of choice. Any milk will work, but whole milk is recommended for optimal taste. Cook the mixture on medium heat and bring to a boil.
- Once the mixture has boiled, add seven egg yolks. Lower the heat from medium to low heat. Mix consistently with a whisk for about two minutes until all ingredients have been evenly blended. Do not allow the mixture to boil again.
- Remove the mixture from the stove and immediately add 7 ounces (5/6 cup) of honey.
- Another idea is to substitute one third of the honey with powdered coconut sugar. To make powered coconut sugar, grind the coconut sugar in a coffee grinder until it has become a powder.
- Add one tablespoon of pure vanilla extract to the mixture. Mix it well and let it cool. Then put it in a fridge and let it cool completely for about an hour.
- In a mixing bowl, whip 21 ounces (2.5 cups) of heavy whipping cream until soft peaks form. Then, add the vanilla custard mixture to the mixing bowl and mix until well-blended. Both a hand mixer or a stand mixer will work for this.
- Transfer the mixture to a glass bowl. Place the bowl inside the freezer and leave it there overnight or for seven to eight hours. In the morning, you will have your vanilla custard! To take it a step further, add any garnish you would like.
- For garnishes, anything from mint leaves, berries, or crushed pieces of candy would work great.
- If you prefer chocolate custard, add an appropriate amount of cocoa powder to your serving.
EditThings You'll Need - Pot
- Whisk
- Mixing bowl
- Stand or hand mixer
- Coffee grinder (optional)
- Glass bowl
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| How to Spider Wrap Posted: 04 Oct 2017 09:00 AM PDT A spider wrap is a handy security device that you can wrap around products to prevent theft. If tampered with, spider wraps sound an alarm. It can be a little tricky to apply a spider wrap, but if you go slow and pay attention to instructions, you can secure your products in the wrap. Make sure to tie spider wraps tightly and keep track of your keys so your products stay safe. EditApplying a Spider Wrap - Identify the locking buckle and main housing. A spider wrap has two black circles between the wires known as the main housing and the locking buckle. The locking buckle has a small, square knob sticking out of its top. The main housing has a hole in its center on one side, known as the key pocket. The key pocket is shaped to fit the square knob on the locking buckle.[1]
- Some spider wraps may have the different parts labeled.
- Unlock the cables. Turn the locking buckle sideways. Press the square knob on the end of the locking buckle into the key pocket in the center of the main housing. Press downward and turn the locking buckle clockwise for a quarter of a turn.[2]
- Pull out the cables. Once the main housing is unlocked, manually pull out the cables by pulling apart the main housing and locking buckle. Stretch the cables as long as necessary to wrap around the product you're securing.[3]
- Align the magnetic key with the locking clip. Your spider wrap comes with a magnetic key that has two small knobs on it. The locking buckle has two holes on one side. Fit the knobs of the key into the holes on the locking buckle.[4]
- Pull out the male end of the locking clip. With the key inserted, push on the end of the locking buckle opposite from the knob you used when unlocking the cables. This releases what is known as the "male end" of the locking buckle, which is a small device shaped like a "T." Pull the male end out just slightly from the locking buckle.[5]
- Wrap the item in the cables. Remove the key from the locking buckle. Place the product you're locking in the center of the cables, between the locking buckle and main housing. Make sure the cables wrap around all sides of the product and that no cables are twisted or tangled.[6]
- Turn the flip up handle clockwise for a quarter turn. The top of the main housing can be flipped upward, creating a small handle. Flip the top upward and then twist the handle clockwise. This will cause the cables to tighten. Keep turning until the cables are wrapped snuggly around the object. Strive to get the cables as tight as you possibly can.[7]
- Seal each side of the spider wrap. Flip the handle of the main housing back down. Turn the product over and push the male end of the locking buckle back into the buckle until you hear a click. Your product is now secured in the spider wrap.[8]
EditRemoving a Spider Wrap - Lay the hand key on the locking buckle. Take your hand key. Once again, fit the two knobs in the hand key into the two holes on the center of the locking buckle.[9]
- Push until you hear a click. Use gentle force to push the key into the locking buckle. You should eventually hear a click. The male end of the locking buckle will pop out.[10]
- Remove the male end from the buckle. Remember, the male end is the t-shaped device that stems from one end of the locking buckle. Pull the male end completely out of the buckle and set it aside for now.[11]
- Remove the product from the spider wrap. Once the male end is removed, the wires will loosen. You should be able to easily slip the product out of the spider wrap.[12]
- Wind the cables back up. Place the male end back into the locking buckle. Flip the handle on the main housing upwards and twist it clockwise until you can no longer turn the handle. You can then put the spider wrap away until you need to use it again.[13]
- Contact the company if you lost your keys. A spider wrap cannot be easily undone without keys. Call the company that made your spider wrap if you lost your keys. They can either send you a replacement or walk you through the process of removing the wrap without the keys.
EditUsing a Spider Wrap Effectively - Make sure your spider wrap is completely tightened. A spider wrap is of no use if it's too loose. Shoplifters can easily slide a product out of a loose spider wrap. Make sure you tighten the wires on your spider wrap as much as possible before putting your product on the shelves.[14]
- Teach all your employees how the wraps work. If you're entrusting employees to secure spider wraps, make sure you have a tutorial first. You want to make sure everyone using the wraps can secure them properly.[15]
- Visual tutorials and live demonstrations can be very helpful when teaching employees how to use a spider wrap. You can also have employees practice securing wraps during training.
- Keep track of your keys. A spider wrap can easily be undone if someone gets ahold of the keys. Keep your keys in a secure place, such as a safe. Make sure only trusted employees know where the keys are and how to access them.[16]
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| How to Train a Saint Bernard Puppy Posted: 04 Oct 2017 01:00 AM PDT Saint Bernards are loyal dogs that make great pets. They can be stubborn although they're intelligent, so it's important that you train your Saint Bernard puppy early to help combat this stubbornness. Work on house training your puppy, teaching them basic commands, and creating a positive environment for them. EditTeaching Your Puppy Basic Commands - Teach the sit command. The "sit" command is the easiest to teach your dog, so it should be first. In a firm, clear voice, tell your Saint Bernard puppy to "sit." Then, gently help them place their bottom on the floor. Praise them. Keep repeating until your puppy sits when you command it.[1]
- You can use treats to reward your puppy. When you get them on their bottom, give them a treat immediately. This way, they can associate sitting with a positive reward.
- Do this every day until your puppy learns it. You should start with short sessions of around five minutes since your puppy is young, but you can increase the amount of time spent on these sessions as they learn. Be patient and don't lose your temper if your Saint Bernard doesn't get it quickly.
- Train your puppy to come. Training your Saint Bernard puppy to come when called is important. This skill will enable them to go off-leash and have more freedoms. Tell your puppy to "come" while walking backwards. The puppy will probably follow you. When your Saint Bernard gets to you, say "come" again before moving backwards. This helps your dog learn what the word means.[2]
- Reward your puppy when they come to you. Try using treats, toys, petting, or verbal praise.
- Teach your dog to stay. Stay can be taught to your Saint Bernard puppy once they learn to sit and come. From a sitting position, hold their collar and say "stay." Then move away from them a short distance before calling them to you.
- Repeat in short intervals at first, then increase how long they have to stay and how far you walk before you let them come to you or move.
- You can also teach your puppy a release word such as "okay" or "move," which will let them know when it is okay to move.[3]
- Stay is a very important command for your Saint Bernard puppy, especially if you plan to take them in public. This command can help keep them out of danger and trouble.
- Train your dog to lay down. The command "lay down" is usually done after you teach "stay." After your Saint Bernard puppy learns to stay, tell them the command "down" from that position. At first, you will have to gently guide them down into that position as you say "down." This pairing will associate the action with the position.[4]
- Keep doing it over and over again until your puppy does it on their own.
- You can use a treat in your hand to help guide your puppy into the laying position.
- Leash train your Saint Bernard puppy. Saint Bernard puppies grow into large dogs, so you should teach it to walk on leash in a controlled manner. Take your puppy for short walks on the leash to start. When the puppy tries to run ahead and pulls the leash, stop. Stand still without letting the puppy go where they want to go. When the puppy comes back to you or sits, start walking again.
- Praise good behavior on the leash with verbal praise, petting, and treats.
- Consider teaching your puppy to sit before they get the leash on them. This helps reduce jumping because they're too excited.
EditCreating a Positive Environment - Be consistent. Consistency is the key to training your Saint Bernard puppy. You should use the same words every time you give a command. This makes it clear to your puppy what you expect. Make sure you always expect the same thing for your dog and apply the same rules. Don't allow your puppy to ignore your sit command before you put on the leash or reward them for jumping if you don't want them to learn these behaviors.[5]
- Talk to everyone in your household about the rules and make sure they understand the command words and what is expected of your puppy.
- Be patient. Saint Bernards can be trained, but they are stubborn. They will test their boundaries and may resist training for awhile. Remember, your puppy is still young and growing. They will learn, but it will take time. Keep reasonable expectations, reinforce the behaviors consistently, and stay calm, and your puppy will learn eventually.[6]
- Use positive reinforcement training methods. Positive reinforcement training is one of the most effective ways to train your puppy. Positive reinforcement uses rewards to reinforce good behavior. Your puppy learns that if they perform a desired action, they will receive something good in return. Use treats, petting, verbal praise, and toys as rewards for good behavior.[7]
- Ignore any undesired behaviors. Responding in any way reinforces the behavior. Turn your back and ignore the behavior until your puppy stops it.
- Avoid punishment. Saint Bernards will not listen or respect owners who use punishment with them. Trying to correct negative behavior with punishment is not an effective training method. Yelling or physically hurting the puppy will more than likely not change the behavior, but rather make the puppy scared of you or lead to bad behaviors. Instead, focus on positive reinforcement methods.[8]
EditHousetraining Your Puppy - Choose an elimination spot. Find a spot outdoors where you want your puppy to go to the bathroom. Take your Saint Bernard to this spot every time they go to the bathroom. The puppy will eventually learn that this is where they need to go and will start wanting to go to do their business in this spot.[9]
- Set an elimination schedule. Your Saint Bernard puppy needs to learn that they have to use the bathroom in their elimination spot. When you first get your puppy, set up a schedule to take them out. Start with taking them out every hour. They should also be taken out first thing in the morning, before bed, and after meals.[10]
- Setting up a feeding schedule can help reinforce the elimination schedule. Your Saint Bernard will get used to going out within 30 minutes after they eat.
- Reward your puppy. Associate the act of going to the bathroom in their elimination spot with a positive reward. When your puppy does their business, give them verbal praise, pet them, and give them a treat. This helps them want to do their business in the elimination spot.[11]
- Provide the rewards immediately after the puppy finishes. Don't start verbal praise while they are still going, and don't wait until you are back inside the house. Rewards need to be immediate.
- Interrupt your puppy calmly if you catch them going in the house. If your Saint Bernard starts to go to the bathroom in the house, calmly interrupt them. Speak their name and clap your hands to get their attention. Then, pick them up and take them outside to the elimination spot. After they do their business, give them a treat to reinforce the positive behavior.[12]
- Avoid yelling at your puppy if you catch them messing in the house. They are learning, so teach them the correct behavior calmly and positively. Don't rub their nose in the mess or punish them.
- Confine your puppy at first. While you are house training them, you should keep them confined to small area of the house where you can keep an eye on them. Your Saint Bernard needs to be monitored until they have learned that they go outside. Confining them helps keep accidents to a minimum and helps you watch them for signs they need to go out.[13]
- You can use baby gates, dog play pens, or closed doors to help limit where your puppy can roam.
- Try crate training. Crate training can be a good way to house train your Saint Bernard puppy. Dogs see crates as their space, so they are less likely to mess in it. Plus, you can leave the puppy in the crate when you go out. You can also let your puppy sleep in the crate at night.[14]
- The crate should be big enough for the puppy to stand up comfortably and turn around. Start with a smaller crate that is closer to your puppy's size and then move up to a larger one more fit for your adult Saint Bernard.
- Don't use the crate as punishment. This should be a positive space for your puppy.
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| How to Danish Oil Wood Posted: 03 Oct 2017 05:00 PM PDT Danish oil can add a beautiful finish to your wood and is fairly easy to use. Always apply it to clean, sanded wood for the best results. For an easy project, opt for a quick, one-day finish using two coats of oil. If you want a smoother finish, go all out and apply three coats over three days, sanding the wet wood before drying it. EditSanding the Wood - Cover your work area. Before sanding, cover the floor or other surface that your wooden object is placed on to protect it from dust and staining. Lay out plastic sheeting on ground or surface area. Tape down the edges with masking tape to keep it in place.
- Sand the wood with 80-grit sandpaper. Use small, circular motions to gradually buff away any visible flaws or marks. Be sure to cover the entire surface of the wood evenly.[1]
- To make the process easier and faster, purchase a sanding block from your local hardware store.[2]
- To sand the difficult-to-reach corners of a wooden object, attach sand paper to the end of a flexible putty knife.
- Remove sanding dust from the wood before applying the oil finish. For a quick and easy clean-up, use a hand-held vacuum to suck up dust. You can also use a brush or can of compressed air to push dust away from the surface of the wood.[3]
EditApplying Danish Oil with the Wet-on-Wet Method - Put on an initial coat of Danish oil. After sanding the wood, apply Danish oil to a clean, lint-free cloth. Generously apply the oil to the wood in broad strokes, reapplying oil to the cloth as needed. Continue this until the wood stops absorbing the oil.[4]
- When the wood stops absorbing the oil, it will lose its shine and look dull.
- Let the wood rest for twenty minutes. After this break the wood will be able to absorb more oil. Set an alarm or reminder to keep track of the time.[5]
- Apply a second coat of oil. After twenty minutes, apply more oil to the surface of the wood. Apply a thinner coat this time, as less oil will be absorbed into the wood than the first time. Stop applying the oil when the wood stops absorbing it. [6]
- Let the wood sit, then wipe it down. Let the wood rest for another twenty minutes. Using a clean, lint-free cloth, wipe away excess oil from the surface of the wood. Let it sit for an hour, then wipe the surface again with a clean cloth.[7]
- Air dry the wood. Let your wood dry in a warm room for a full 48 hours before touching it. Moving it too soon is likely to cause marks or disrupt the drying process of the oil. Keep the object out of direct sunlight, which can affect the finish.[8]
EditCreating a Very Smooth Finish with Danish Oil - Apply oil to the wood and keep it wet. After sanding, apply Danish oil to your sanded wood surface with a brush or clean cloth. Re-wet any part of the wood surface that become dull because the oil is being absorbed. Keep the surface wet for three to four minutes, reapplying the oil as needed.[9]
- Wipe off excess oil and let the wood dry. Make sure that no oil is pooled or clustered in corners of the wood. Allow it to dry overnight in a warm room.[10]
- Apply a second coat of oil and sand it. The next day, apply a second coat of oil to the wood with a clean cloth or brush. While the oil is still wet, use very fine sandpaper to sand the surface. Use long, light strokes and move in the direction of the grain.[11]
- For best results, use 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper, available at hardware stores.
- Remove excess oil and dry the wood. Be sure that all sanding debris is also removed from the wood surface. Once again, leave the wood to dry overnight in a warm room.[12]
- Repeat the process a third time. The nest day, repeat the process of applying oil and sanding the wet wood. Wipe off the excess oil and debris. Let the wood sit overnight to dry.[13]
- Repeat the process if needed. As a general rule, three days is enough to achieve a smooth finish with Danish oil. If you feel that your wood could be smoother, repeat the process for a fourth day. Continue the process for as many full days as needed to achieve the finish you want.[14]
- Let the wood dry for 24 hours in a warm, dry room. Given the multiple, deep-penetrating layers of Danish oil applied using this method, your wood will require more drying time than lighter applications. If you notice any debris or particles on the wood while it is drying, do not remove them until the 24 hour drying period is completed.[15]
EditThings You'll Need - Danish oil
- Plastic sheeting
- Masking tape
- 80-grit sandpaper
- A hand-held vacuum, brush, or can of compressed air
- Clean, lint-free cloths
- A clean paintbrush
- 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper
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| How to Mime Posted: 03 Oct 2017 09:00 AM PDT Mime is form of performance art that can be traced back to ancient Greece and Rome, though it is often associated with French culture. Miming is a silent art form that requires the performer to communicate through movement, gestures, and facial expressions. This art form has evolved through the years, and there are many different techniques of miming today. To learn to mime, you should learn the basic movements, practice more advanced moves, and dress like a mime to pull your act together. EditLearning Basic Movements - Use your body to talk. This is one of the first and most important things to know about miming. Talking or mouthing words is unnecessary during miming. Instead, use facial expressions, gestures, and posture to do the "talking."[1]
- For example, furrow your eyebrows and place your hands on your hips to demonstrate annoyance.
- Assess your facial expressions and poses in a mirror. Use a mirror to assess what movements are the most successful in conveying emotions, attitudes, and reactions. Practice facial expressions and simple movement and poses at first. The poses can be whatever comes to mind; they don't have to mime movements just yet. A full-length mirror is a necessity for beginners, but bear in mind the mirror is a friend you will need to leave behind at performance time.[2]
- A video camera, if available, is another invaluable tool.
- Cultivate your imagination. Using your imagination can't be emphasized enough when it comes to creating illusions. It's very important for a mime to truly believe the illusion is real. Naturally, the realer the illusion is for the mime, the more realistic it will be for your audience. This can be accomplished through practice.[3]
- For instance, imagine a wall. See the wall in different colors. Feel the wall in different textures such as rough, smooth, wet, or dry. Use these same techniques while practicing all illusions.
- You will also find your body reacting naturally to the illusion if you are convinced it's real.
- Take advantage of a fixed point. This may be more commonly referred to as "pointe fixe," however that is simply the original French wording of "fixed point." This is a simple idea. The mime locates a point with his body, and then keeps it motionless in space. This technique is the basis of all illusions a mime can create.[4]
- For example, you can create a fixed point by holding one hand directly in front of you. Keep your hand in that position, but move your body.
- Add lines to fixed points. The line builds upon a fixed point by simply adding a second fixed point in space. For example, put up another hand so that both of your hands are in front of you. You can move your body or move both of your hands and keep your body still. A good application of this concept is the "mime wall."[5]
- The relative distance between the two points becomes the definition of this "construction block."
- Make a dynamic line. Find a wall and place both of your hands on it at approximately shoulder height. Push lightly into the wall with your hands. As you push try to feel where pressure builds up in your body. You should feel pressure in your hands, of course, but you should also feel some tension in your shoulders and hips.[6]
- If you can't feel anything, gently increase the pressure until you do.
- Try different positions and feel how they change the pressures in your body.
- This is the idea applied to "pulling the rope," but it can be applied to virtually any use of force in an illusion.
- Manipulate space and matter. This is a fancy phrase for "making things out of thin air." This technique makes use of many of the elements from the creating a fixed point, a line, and a dynamic line. It is best served by an example illusion: dribbling a basketball. Make a rounded palm with fingers gently curled over it. This shape defines the space where the illusion exists and allows the basketball, the "matter," to exist in the illusion.[7]
- Space and matter manipulation can be used to create any number of objects, characters, or events by utilizing this principle.
EditPracticing Advanced Miming Techniques - Pretend to be in a box. If you are in an invisible box, you can press the air out in front of you with your hands—first your palm and then your fingers. Act as if you are trying to find a way out of this invisible box by identifying its corners and sides. Run one hand across the "edges" of your imaginary box as you try to find the lid and your way out.[8]
- If you want, you can eventually find the lid and flip it open dramatically with both arms in a triumphant gesture.
- Grab a rope. Pretend to have a rope dangling before you and attempt to climb it. Slide down and clamber back up for best effect. Imagine and feel your full body weight. Pretend your muscles are stretching and straining. Contort your face into a grimace. When you reach the top, wipe the perspiration off your brow.[9]
- If you have never climbed a real rope, do so with supervision in a padded gym. Make mental notes of your actions and reactions.
- Climb a ladder. Grab at imaginary ladder rungs going up in the air. Place the ball of one foot on the ground as if you were putting it on a ladder rung. Pull down on the rungs while keeping your hands moving together. Alternate feet and hands each time you "climb." Keep your focus upwards, as though you were looking at the place to which you are climbing.[10]
- Do the lean. Pretend to be leaning against a lamp post, wall, or a counter. It might sound easy, but it takes quite a lot of strength and coordination to "lean" on nothing. The basic lean has two parts:[11]
- For the top part: Hold your arm slightly away from your body with the elbow bent so that your forearm is parallel to the ground and your hand is near your torso. Now raise your shoulder as you move your chest towards your elbow (keeping the elbow at the same point in space).
- The bottom part: At the same time, bend your knee slightly and transfer your weight onto the bent leg. The net effect should be that your elbow stays where it is, but it looks as though your weight has settled onto the imaginary place where your elbow rests. Keep your opposite leg perfectly straight as this adds to the illusion.
- For a more active show of leaning, the act can also incorporate stumbling, sliding, and missing the leaned-on object altogether.
- Struggle against the wind. Pretend that it is very windy, and that you are having a hard time standing up in it. Let the wind move you back and forth. For added amusement, include a struggle with an umbrella that keeps turning inside out.
- Mime eating. Pretend to be consuming a very sloppy hamburger or hot dog with all the contents slopping down the front of your clothing. Use a pretend napkin to wipe off the spill. Accidentally squirt some ketchup towards your eye for comical effect. Or, try peeling a banana and then slipping over on the peel.[12]
- Make up a story. You can go for a simple routine, or you can create a story. If you create a story from your mime, you will be engaging your audience and providing true artistic resonance to the art of miming. Think in advance of a "tale" you would like to tell. Keep in mind that mime can be very beautiful and moving if done well.[13]
- One story example: It is a windy day (wind/umbrella mime), and you meet a friend who has a cat stuck up a tree. Your friend asks you to climb the ladder to rescue the cat (ladder mime). When you return the cat (mime holding a squirming cat), your friend treats you to a hamburger (sloppy mime).
EditDressing like a Mime - Apply the white base. A mime is instantly identifiable by their signature makeup. A white base for the face is traditional for mimes. Find a white "grease" or paint and apply it all over your face with a sponge or brush. Your natural skin tone should not show through the white makeup when you are done.[14]
- Be sure not to get to white makeup in your eyes.
- You might also try small circles of light pink blush for a happy or girlish mime.
- Add the dark makeup. After you've applied the white base, apply thick black eyeliner all around your eyes. Then, go over your natural eyebrows with black paint. You can also add stylized "tears" running to the middle of the cheekbones. Finish with black or dark red lipstick.[15]
- Keep in mind that you can alter the makeup to your character and preference.
- Wear the traditional black and white striped mime costume. Serious mimes might not wear the classic "costume" anymore, but you can wear this costume as a beginner. Find a black-and-white horizontally striped shirt—ideally with a boat neck and three-quarter sleeves. Wear dark pants, black suspenders, white wrist-length gloves, and a black bowler hat to complete the look. You can also wear a black or red beret.[16]
- This outfit and make-up has been a tradition of many famous mime artists, including the legendary Marcel Marceau.
- You do not need to dress this way. In fact, it is considered a cliché by modern mime artists.
- Choose a costume for your character. If you wish to create a character, adopt a mood with your clothing, makeup, and lighting. For instance, you may wish to highlight the plight of the homeless sleeping out in the cold during winter. Paint on a sad face, wear tattered clothing, and use dim lighting.
- Think through a story that allows you to mime trudging despair as the homeless person seeks shelter for the night.
- If you are really interested in pursuing a career in mime, consider taking a mime course with a school or dramatic arts group.
- Many mimes now operate under the term "physical theater" in order to avoid the social stigma that mime often inspires today. Most of these artists do not use traditional mime costumes or make-up.
- A very good mime artist is highly sought after in such fields as theater, movies and the circus.
- Most well known mimes, including Marcel Marceau and Charlie Chaplin, mainly performed as courageous, but pitiful characters (Bip and The Tramp, respectively).[17]
- Penn & Teller, David Shiner, Geoff Hoyle, and John Gilkey are great examples for aspiring mimes and clowns.[18]
- To avoid stretch injuries, always warm up prior to attempting mime exercises. Miming requires as much agility as dance or acting.
- Never perform in a public place without a friend or manager nearby watching the performance. This is to protect yourself from hecklers and an unruly audience.
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| How to Make Colorful Pine Cone Fire Starters Posted: 03 Oct 2017 01:00 AM PDT If you're looking for a fun craft to make easy gifts for parties, pine cone fire starters can be a great option. They can also be a fun craft to make just for yourself. All you need is some wax, a stove, and some pinecones to make beautiful decorative candles you can use in a fireplace or on a camping trip. EditMaking Your Wax - Melt your soy wax. Place a heat proof container, such as a glass mixing bowl, inside a large pan filled with water. Place your pan over a stove and add your soy wax. Turn on the stove and melt your wax, stirring constantly.[1]
- Medium to high heat should be sufficient to melt wax.
- The amount of wax you use depends on how many fire starters you're making. More fire starters will need more wax. You only need a small amount of wax, around a cup (240 mL) or less, to make a single candle.
- Mix color blocks into the wax. Wax kits should come with color blocks that you add to the wax to create colors. Chop up a color block, in your chosen color, and add a small amount of the block to your wax. Stir the block into the wax until it's melted and blended completely into the wax.[2]
- Most kits have recommendations on how much color block to add per pound of wax. However, it's generally better to choose your own amounts, starting with a small amount of wax and building up. This way, you can create the color you prefer.
- Test the colors. Place a piece of wax paper on a counter near your stove. Dip a wooden spoon into the wax mixture and let a small amount of wax drip onto the paper. Wait until the wax is dry and check the color to see if you like it.[3]
- Drying times will vary, but a small amount of wax should not take more than a few minutes to dry.
- Adjust your colors as needed. If you want a darker color, return to the wax mixture to the stove. Add a little more of your color block and stir it into the wax until it melts. Test the color again to see if you like it. Keep adding color blocks in small amounts until you get a color you like. When you're done, remove the wax from the heat.[4]
EditCoating Your Pinecones with Wax - Wrap your pinecones with twine. Start wrapping near the base of the pinecone, looping the twine around the pinecone's center by weaving it between the scales. Keep weaving until you reach the other end of the pine cone. Tie a firm knot on the top of the pine cone and cut the twine so you have a few inches/centimeters of twine coming out the top.[5]
- Dip your pine cone into the wax. Grab the twine stemming off the top of the pine cone. Dip the pine cone all the way into your wax mixture and then pull it up. Your pinecone should be coated in wax.[6]
- You should remove the wax from the stove and turn the burner off before dipping your candles.
- Keep dipping until your pinecone is your desired thickness. After the first layer, some edges of the pine cone will not be coated and the wax will not be very thick. Keep dipping your pine cone until its completely coated and the wax is as thick as you want.[7]
- There are no strict rules in terms of how thick the wax should be. It's a matter of personal preference.
- There is no need to let the wax dry between coats.
EditDrying and Decorating Your Pinecones - Set the pinecone aside to cool. Use a baking sheet, wax paper, or a paper plate. Once your pine cone is coated to your liking, set it on your chosen surface to cool and dry.[8]
- Drying times depend on how much wax you used, but most pine cones should be cool and dry within 24 hours.
- Make tags using pieces of cardboard and twine. Cut out pieces of cardboard paper into the shapes of small tags. Punch a hole on the top of the tags and string a small piece of twine through the hole. Take a pen and write a cute message on each tag.[9]
- For example, if you're making pinecones for a Christmas or holiday party, write something like, "Happy Holidays!"
- Secure the tags to your pinecones. Tie the string from the tag around the top of the pinecone. There should be a small knob near the top where the pine cone thins where you can easily tie the tag. Then, tie the twine into a nice bow to secure the tag to the pine cone.[10]
- Use your fire starters. Light the wick of your pine cone. Then, place it in fresh kindling or a fireplace stocked with wood and sticks to start a fire. Do not light your fire starters as candles.[11]
EditThings You'll Need - Heat proof container
- Pot
- Soy wax
- Color block
- Pine cones
- Wax paper
- Twine
- Cardboard
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Earn Your Parents' Trust Posted: 02 Oct 2017 05:00 PM PDT Without your parents' trust, you might find yourself spending a lot of Saturday nights cooped up in the house while your friends are out having fun. Maybe you have been dishonest with your parents in the past or perhaps they are just really strict. Whatever the case, you are probably eager to build trust so they will see you as mature. You can earn your parents' trust through communicating honestly, abiding by their rules, and accepting responsibility. EditCommunicating with Your Parents - Be honest. Being dishonest with your parents will only make them trust you less. If you've done something wrong, fess up as quickly as possible. This will help your parents see that, if they trust you, they will be notified as soon as you make a mistake or need help. If you make a mistake, tell them what you're going to do to make it right. Don't keep secrets from your parents; instead be open with them to build trust.[1]
- For instance, if you recently got a speeding ticket, tell your parents immediately. You don't want them to risk finding out in other ways.
- Say "I am so sorry, but I got a speeding ticket coming home today. I didn't notice how fast I was going, and I apologize. I understand if I need to be punished."
- Follow up with "In the future, I will pay careful attention to my speeding, and even try to drive below the speed limit."
- Listen to what your parents have to say. Remember that your parents have valuable opinions just like you. Explain to your parents that you want to hear their advice in certain situations. Take what they say into consideration and remember that both of you should be heard in conversations.
- For instance, even when your parents are giving you a long lecture about something, don't get on your phone or daydream. Focus on their words and apply their advice.
- Practice active listening by reflecting what you're hearing back to them and confirming that's what they're saying. This helps them know that you're invested.
- At the end of the conversation, thank them for their help and advice.
- Tell them what's going on in your life. Encourage your family to sit down and have dinners together daily. Keep them updated on everything going on with you. You never want a teacher or other adult to approach them with information about you that they don't know, especially if it's not good news.
- You might say something like "I did pretty well on my Calculus exam today, but I was hoping to do better. I'm kinda bummed that I got a B and not an A."
- Tell them you want their trust. If you have recently done something to break your parent's trust in you, sit them down to have a talk. Tell them that you are ashamed about what you did, but that you do want to fix things. Ask them if there are specific ways you can make amends. Stay humble and work to come up with solutions and abide by their rules.[2]
- Say "Dad, I'm really sorry for breaking curfew. There is no excuse for me being that late, especially since you extended it. I know I'm grounded right now, but when that's done I promise to always be on time in the future. I want you to be able to trust my word."
EditFollowing Their Rules - Go beyond their expectations. Whether you have broken your parent's trust or not, instead of tiptoeing on the rules, exceed your parent's expectations. Is your curfew at 10? Be home by 9:45. Are you supposed to do the dishes tonight? Sweep the floor, too. Let your parents know that you respect them and their rules.[3]
- If you go above and beyond now, they will be more likely to let you have more leeway in the future.
- Answer when they call or text. When your parents call or text you, pick up or respond immediately. Don't ignore them unless you are in class or at work. Your parents should be able to feel that they can rely on you to answer when they call.[4]
- Be especially sure to do this if your parents pay your cell phone bill.
- You never know if it's an emergency, so be sure to answer in case they need you.
- The more you pick up/respond immediately, the less they will call/text in the first place! Call or text them spontaneously for a similar effect.
- Do what they ask you to do. Sometimes, your parents might ask you to do things that are a bit annoying like mowing the lawn or cooking dinner. However, do everything they ask with a good attitude and as quickly as possible. Your parents probably do a lot for you, so the least you can do is return the favor with a smile.[5]
- If your parents ask you for something that you don't want to or can't do, try to amend it. Be explicit and propose an alternative, but accept their decision if they disagree with you.
- Be where you say you'll be. If you tell your mom you'll be at the mall, don't go over to your significant other's house, instead. Always tell the truth. You never know - they might show up at the mall to surprise you and then you'll find yourself caught in a lie. Always be honest with them about your location.
- Be mindful of your social media. Trust is earned from all areas of life, social media included. Post things that your family won't be ashamed to see. If you know your mom doesn't want you posting revealing pics online, don't post a picture in your new bikini.[6]
- If your dad doesn't want you speaking to strangers, set up your account so only friends can message you. Use your accounts wisely.
- Do your chores and homework without being told. If you know you have homework, do it before your parents get home so they don't have to remind you. If it's your night to start dinner, do so without them having to call and check-in. The more reliable you are with small things, the more your parents will trust you with larger things.
- Start developing your own reminder system. Set alerts on your phone, keep a calendar, use post-it notes for visual clues, or something else! Find a system that works for you.
EditBeing Responsible - Apologize when you do wrong. When you break a rule, immediately say you're sorry to your parents. Acknowledging your faults is a sign of maturity and your parents will take notice. Avoid making excuses and just be honest. Don't make them come to you seeking an apology - come on your own.[7]
- Say "Mom, I'm really sorry for breaking the lamp. I know it can't be fixed, but I can save the money to buy a new one."
- Make amends for your mistakes. When you mess up, do all within your power to correct it. This will show your parents that you are committed to making things right. Show your parents how committed you are to doing the right thing and they will view you as being dependable.
- For instance, if you forgot to clean your room and your Dad got mad, clean it thoroughly now. Go above your parent's expectations. Keep this behavior up without having to be told.
- Take on extra tasks. Earn your parent's trust by asking them to give you more responsibilities around the house. Each year that you age should come with a new set of expectations. Offer to babysit younger siblings so your parents can go out on a date night. Wash the family cars on Saturdays so they have more time to relax. Get a part-time job so you don't have to always ask for money
- Set high standards for yourself. If your family sees that you have a good moral compass and generally do the right thing, they will trust you more. Work to ensure that everything you touch prospers. Pay attention in class and study so that you do well in school. Come to work on time each day and do your job to the best of your ability.[8]
- Keep the peace with others to show to your family that you are mature and able to resolve conflict well.
- Spend time with positive people. One way to ensure that your parents trust you is by choosing your friends wisely. If you hang around people who get into trouble often, your parents might worry that you are headed down a bad road. Prove to them that you are a good judge of character by choosing good friends.[9]
- Let your parents meet your friends and develop their own relationships with them. This will show them that you have nothing to hide.
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| How to Create a Brand with Limited Capital Posted: 02 Oct 2017 09:00 AM PDT A brand is your business identity. It is the sum total of the memories consumers associate with your goods or services.[1] The process of creating a brand is the same whether you have a lot of capital or a little. However, when it comes time to market, you should seek out low-cost alternatives to running television or print advertisements. EditComing Up With Your Brand - Identify your company's mission. What problem has your business concept been created to address? For example, a fashion designer who makes maternity clothes is probably trying to provide stylish clothes to expectant mothers, which is an underserved market.[2]
- Based on this example, you can already see the outlines of a brand: stylish, relatively young, and feminine.
- Describe the benefits of your goods or services. What are consumers taking away? On the one hand, they get a product or service. However, try to identify any other intangible qualities.
- For example, women who buy stylish maternity clothes feel comfortable and sexy at the same time.
- Ask customers how they see your company. Every company has a brand, whether intentional or not, because consumers already associate emotions and values with your company. Ideally, you'll build on top of your current brand, but you need to find out what it is. The easiest way is to ask current customers to complete a survey.[3]
- A cheap survey method is to use Survey Monkey. On your receipt, you can print the URL for the survey so customers can complete it.
- Ask consumers what words they would associate with your business.
- Also ask what frame of mind they are in when they visit your store, and how they feel when they leave.
- Identify the qualities you want to convey. It's one thing to find out how your current customers see you. However, you might want to be seen differently.[4] For example, a designer of maternity clothes might want their clothes to be seen as sporty, not sexy.
- Identify the cluster of emotions and sensations you want clients to attribute to your goods or services.
- Research your clients' habits. Your consumers reveal a lot based on their buying behavior. For example, if you sell wine online, your clients might buy it before buying expensive or cheap items. This buying behavior can tell you how they view your brand.
- If you create a website, you can see which websites people visit directly before and after yours.
- Alternately, you can ask customers in a survey what other stores they regularly shop at.
EditBuilding Your Brand - Create a logo. A vivid logo will easily identify your company in the marketplace. It should also advance the emotions or ideas you want consumers to attach to your business. For example, the Nike "swoosh" suggests energy and speed—attributes a sportswear company would want clients to associate with it.
- A graphic artist can help you come up with an effective logo. Although you don't have a lot of money, ask if you can barter your services. Also look for cheap designers on websites such as Fiverr.[5]
- If you use your logo in commerce, then you should trademark it. In the U.S., you can trademark a logo for a few hundred dollars.[6]
- Write a tagline. A tagline is a brief sentence that captures the essence of your business.[7] Your tagline should complement your logo. If you use it as a trademark or service mark, you should register it as well.[8]
- For example, Nike's "Just Do It" perfectly complements its swoosh logo. Both promote movement, athleticism, and speed.
- "Just Do It" also encourages couch potatoes to get up and get moving, which creates a larger pool of potential consumers.
- If you run a massage parlor, you might have a pair of hands as your logo. Your tagline could be, "Give yourself the gift of rest…." With this tagline, you are reaching out to people who might feel guilty about splurging on a massage.
- Establish a branding voice. The tone you use in communications also conveys your brand. For example, if you're casual and breezy, you can write in an informal style. Your sales people should also speak in this voice.[9]
- If you're creating a more academic brand, then you can use more elevated language—though you should strive not to sound snobbish.
- Brand across all written materials. A brand is more than a logo. Instead, you express your brand each time you interact with the public. For example, your marketing materials should have the same logo placement, color scheme, and feel.[10]
- Select appropriate spokespeople. If you have enough money to afford celebrity spokespeople, make sure they align with your brand. For example, a business catering to white collar men probably shouldn't use a teen X Games champion as a spokesperson. Instead, the local golfing pro might be more appropriate.
- If your brand is young, fresh, and irreverent, then younger celebrities are probably effective.
- Train your employees to communicate your brand. The public associates your employees with the company. For this reason, you should train employees on how to communicate your brand. For example, you might want to script sample conversations they can have with customers. You might also want to set a dress code that reinforces your brand.[11]
- You must follow anti-discrimination laws when hiring, so don't exclude workers on the basis of race, sex, religion, or age. In some situations, the line is a little blurry. For example, if you're selling sex appeal, you can hire only men or women, depending on your target clientele. However, you should probably consult with an attorney if you have questions.
- Avoid imitation. You shouldn't try to look or sound like a big chain competitor. Instead, find your own unique style and voice. Many large chains are now trying to brand as smaller independents, so you have an advantage.[12]
- Stay consistent. You'll muddy the waters if you aren't consistent with your branding. For example, don't use a breezy style in your advertisements and then suddenly become serious. Your consumers will be confused.
- You'll also dilute your brand if you begin advertising to different market segments. For example, a clothing brand that appeals to pregnant women will probably lose customers if it introduces a line of sexy lingerie. In that situation, you're mixing your message, and your branding efforts will fail.[13]
- You are at greatest risk of undermining your brand when you try to introduce new products or services. You can certainly do so if they align with what you currently offer clients. However, consider starting a second company if they don't.
EditMarketing on a Shoestring - Use social media. Social media is a pretty cheap way of staying engaged with your consumers. Create a Twitter account and a Facebook page, at a minimum. You can also create a Facebook group around a theme instead your business.[14] For example, a massage parlor might start a Facebook group on "Relaxation Tips for Men."
- Remember to use consistent branding on your social media accounts. For example, your logo should be your profile picture on Twitter. Also put your tagline in your bio.
- Whoever handles your social media accounts should understand your branding voice.
- Create a website. Websites aren't free, but they shouldn't cost a lot. You'll probably pay a couple hundred dollars a year. You can either design the website yourself using Wix or similar programs, or you can hire someone.
- On your website, you can post client testimonials that support your brand.[15] For example, a massage parlor can have clients testify about how relaxing the massage was.
- Your website design should also complement the design scheme you use on printed materials.
- Blog. Blogging is a great way to build company loyalty. Your blog should provide value for consumers, such as "do it yourself" articles. For example, if you run a massage parlor, you can upload a video showing people how to give their spouse a massage.
- Don't blog unless you can upload content regularly, which is key to establishing loyalty.[16]
- Host events for customers. Avoid only communicating digitally. Instead, host events for your customers that help further the brand you are creating.[17]
- For example, a designer of maternity clothes can host a baby shower for a group of customers. You'll only pay for snacks and possibly rental space. At the event, you can also hand out gifts—perhaps, your new clothing line for babies.
- Help out a reporter. As a business owner, you're already a semi-expert in your industry. Reporters constantly need people to give them quotes to use in stories, so you should cultivate these relationships.[18] A mention in a newspaper article will increase your brand's visibility.
- Sign up at helpareporter.com. At the website, you'll enter your information as a possible source reporters can contact.
- Also be proactive at making contacts. Read stories about your industry and send emails to the reporters congratulating them on their great article. They'll remember you.
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| How to Remove Mold Stains from Wood Floors Posted: 02 Oct 2017 01:00 AM PDT Mold grows on wood floors when it has appropriate moisture, warmth, and food. It can not only stain wood floors, but also move below the surface to discolor, rot, or warp the wood. To keep the mold from spreading, first cut off the source of the moisture. Most surface mold can be removed with a rag and chemical spray. Removing ingrained mold requires figuring out how deeply the mold has grown into the surface of your floor or wall and using the proper method to eliminate all the growth. EditNoticing Your Mold Problem - Pay attention to any symptoms of mold exposure. There are a number of ways you learn about mold on wood floors. If you are suffering from mold exposure, you may experience headaches, itchy eyes, breathing problems, or difficulty concentrating.[1]
- Notice any musty smells. Mold emits a gas that gives it a musty smell. If you notice this smell, you likely have mold, even if it is not visible in your house. The mold may be somewhere not immediately visible, such as in your walls, under carpets, or in a crawlspace or heating duct.[2]
- See if your wood floors are warping. If mold is growing beneath your floors, it will eventually cause the floorboards themselves to begin to twist and warp. If there is any sign of warping of the wood, this means your mold problem is pretty far along.[3]
- If the mold causing the warping isn't caught and removed promptly, the warped floor may need to be removed. This process is time-consuming and expensive.
EditRemoving Surface Mold - Wear appropriate safety gear when working around mold or with chemicals. Gloves and safety glasses are sufficient for removing surface mold over small areas, no more than a few square feet. For deeper mold removal or over larger surface areas, use an N-95 mask or P-100 respirator in addition to gloves and safety glasses.[4]
- Also, wear clothing and shoes that can be easily washed or disposed of after.
- Select the proper mold and mildew cleaner. For surface mold, you want to use a cleaner designed for urethane finishes. You can also use a chlorine bleach solution, with a water/bleach ratio of 10:1. If you choose to purchase a mold cleaner, look at your local hardware store or a home and garden center.[5]
- Read through the safety labels on any and all chemicals you use.
- Wipe away the mold using a rag. Minor, surface-level mold growths are relatively easy to clean. Spray the moldy area with your cleaner or bleach solution. Let this sit for 10 minutes, and then wipe the mold off with a rag.[6] For stubborn mold stains, use a firm-bristled hand scrubbing brush. Throw the rag away after you've cleaned the mold.
- When you apply cleaning chemicals or a bleach solution, prevent the chemicals from spreading to uninfected areas. Do not leave the bleach solution on the wood for longer than necessary, as it will remove the wood finish.
EditRemoving Ingrained Mold - Test the depth of the mold. If you have mold growing on your walls (especially drywall) or flooring, the mold may have spread beyond what's visible. Press into the spot with a screwdriver or sharp tool. If the wood feels soft, the mold has spread below the surface and into the wood. This will require more than surface cleaning.[7]
- If the spot feels slightly soft, the mold can be removed.
- If the wood feels spongy or crumbles, it may be rotten and not salvageable.
- Dry out the floor using room heaters or fans. Before you begin to physically remove the mold, all of the moisture in the wood needs to be eliminated.[8] Set a large fan (or two) in the room with the mold, and direct the blowing air towards the moldy floor or wall. Let the fans blow for several hours.[9]
- Drying the moldy area will protect the floors and prevent future mold growth.
- Make sure your floors are totally dry. Ingrained mold needs to be dry before you remove it.
- Ventilate the room. Mold particles can be dangerous to inhale, and you should take precautions to avoid this. Wear a mask or handkerchief over your mouth, and open all exterior windows and doors. For added precaution, set a large box fan in one of the exterior windows to blow the mold-infused air out of the room you're working in.[10]
- If you do not have a box fan, you can purchase one at a hardware store or a home-supply store.
- Remove the top layers of mold. First use 100 grit sandpaper or a metal hand scraper to remove as much mold as you can. Use finer 220 grit sandpaper to remove more ingrained mold. If the mold has penetrated deeply into wooden floor, you'll need to use a more heavy-duty scraping tool. Use a metal utensil, such as a spackle blade, to scrape away the mold.[11]
- Sand in a circular motion, and only sand the affected area.
- Once you've removed the mold, polish the affected area with 200 or 250 grit sandpaper until smooth.
- Spray diluted bleach onto the moldy area. Mix water and bleach at an 8:1 ratio, and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the moldy area with the bleach solution, and let it sit for several minutes.[12] Then use an old rag to wipe up the bleach solution. This will kill any live mold before it spreads.
- Even if it looks as though you've physically removed all of the mold, there may still be spores present that are too small to see.
- Bleach will kill these and prevent further mold outbreaks.
- Cut out any mold-riddled drywall, flooring, or insulation. If the mold has fully permeated a section of carpet or drywall, it's probably not salvageable. You'll need to remove and dispose of the material to prevent the mold infestation from spreading. Use a screwdriver, utility knife, or other sharp tool to cut through the moldy insulation or carpet.[13]
- Put the moldy material into a garbage bag immediately.
- Once you've removed and disposed of the moldy wall or floor segment, you'll need to replace the material. Visit your local hardware store and purchase the necessary items to patch carpet, drywall, or wood flooring.
- Apply a wood finish that matches the original finish. Once you have removed the ingrained mold, you'll need to apply a finish to the wood flooring.[14] Try to find a wood finish that will cover up the mold stain and restore the coloring of your wood floor. For added protection against moisture in the future, apply a polyurethane finish to the wood.
- If you can't find the exact colored finish to match the original floors, use the next lightest shade.[15]
- Bag and dispose of all the debris. Use heavy-duty garbage bags to throw out all of the trash from the mold-removal process, including rags, sandpaper, and any tools that you used. If you tore up flooring or drywall in the process, use a wet/dry vacuum to clean up the mess.[16]
- Use a chemical cleaner or bleach solution to wipe down the wet/dry vacuum after use, to kill any mold spores it may have collected.
EditPreventing Future Mold - Keep floors dry to discourage mold growth. Mold needs moisture to grow. Keep an eye on your wood floors to make sure they are clean and dry. If you have wood floors in places that are prone to moisture, such as bathrooms, basements, or kitchens, make sure you clean up any surface moisture as soon as possible.[17]
- Warm environments also encourage mold growth. Wood floors in any places that get warm, such as bathrooms or kitchens, need to be aired out to avoid mold growth.
- Clean your floors regularly. If your wood floors are clean and dry, then the conditions for mold are less likely to arise. Vacuum and mop your wood floors on a regular basis. While you may not have to clean your wood floors daily, make sure to incorporate it as part of your weekly cleaning routine.[18]
- When ingrained in wood floors, mold feeds on nutrients on the surface of the wood, but not on the wood itself. Keep your wood floors dry and clean to make sure mold does not have a food source.
- Control humidity in your house. Mold grows best in humid environments. Consider buying a dehumidifier to keep a consistent level. Indoor humidity should be at about 50% to avoid most molds.[19]
- Clean spilled water as soon as possible. Don't let any water sit on your wood floor as that could lead to mold growth.
- Air out your house during the colder months. When it's colder outside, we tend to keep our homes warmer, which creates warm air that does not escape. Additionally, plants are more likely to die in the fall and winter, which creates more opportunity for mold to grow.[20]
- Airing out your house will allow this warm air to escape, and will clear out any mold spores that have begun to grow.
- Maintain your air conditioner during warmer months. Make sure your air conditioner is in working order and not creating excess moisture. An overused air condition can create additional condensation, which will create a favorable environment for mold to grow in.[21]
- Think about hiring a professional to remove the mold for you. If you have allergies to mold, a weakened immune system, or the mold covers more than 30 continuous square feet (2.8 square meters), consider calling in a professional to address the mold problem.[22]
- Certain types of mold are highly toxic and exposure can lead to serious health complications.
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| How to Tell if a Watermelon Is Bad Posted: 01 Oct 2017 05:00 PM PDT Watermelon is a delicious summer treat, but to protect your health, it's important to know if a watermelon is bad. One way you could discover whether your watermelon is bad is by checking for mold or a foul smell. You could also use the expiration date to tell if the watermelon is bad. EditIdentifying Signs of Spoilage - Check for mold on the outside. Mold or dark-colored spots on the outside of the watermelon could indicate that it has gone bad. The mold might be black, white, or green, and have a fuzzy appearance.[1]
- Look for a healthy color outside. The watermelon should have either a consistent pine green shade or a striped appearance. Striped watermelons have alternating lime-green and darker pine-colored stripes.[2]
- Look for a deep pink or red inside. These colors indicate the watermelon is healthy. If your watermelon is a different color (black, for instance), do not eat it.[3]
- Different varieties of watermelon have different internal appearances. Desert King, Tendergold, Yellow Baby, and Yellow Doll watermelons have yellow or orange flesh.[4]
- Beware of gritty and dry watermelon flesh. When watermelon is no longer good, the crisp flesh will start to shrivel. The flesh might even be pulling away from the seeds.[5] In other cases, the watermelon might become slimy and mushy.
- Smell the watermelon before cutting into it. A healthy, edible watermelon should smell sweet and fresh. If it smells tangy or sour, it's gone bad and should be thrown it away.[6]
EditMeasuring the Freshness Using Dates - Use the expiration date. If you're eating pre-cut watermelon you bought from the market, the container should include an eat-by, best-by, or other expiration date. This date lets you know how long you have until the watermelon goes bad.[7]
- Eat cut watermelon within five days. Properly stored, sliced watermelon will stay good three to five days. Make eating it a priority to prevent it from going bad.[8]
- Eat unrefrigerated, uncut watermelon within 10 days. After about a week, uncut, unrefrigerated watermelon will start to turn. Eat uncut, unrefrigerated watermelon as soon as possible.[9]
- Don't eat refrigerated, uncut watermelon after 2-3 weeks. After about two weeks, refrigerated, uncut watermelon will start to turn. To prevent your uncut, refrigerated watermelon from going bad, eat it within two weeks of purchase.[10]
EditExtending the Shelf Life of Watermelon - Refrigerate your whole or sliced watermelon. Watermelons are typically refrigerated at a temperature of 13 degrees Celsius (55 F). Storing your fruit at 21 Celsius (70 F) will increase its lycopene and beta-carotene content (both of which are important antioxidants).[11]
- Store cut watermelon in an airtight container. A resealable bag or container is the best place for watermelon. This will preserve its flavor and freshness.[12]
- In a pinch, wrap your watermelon tightly in aluminum foil or plastic wrap.[13]
- Use caution when freezing watermelon. Some people advise against freezing watermelon altogether, since thawing or cutting open a frozen watermelon piece could cause the juice to drip out.[14] If you decide to live on the wild side and want to freeze your watermelon, place it in airtight containers or heavy-duty freezer bags. The watermelon will stay good for 10-12 months.[15]
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| How to Win an Eating Contest Posted: 01 Oct 2017 09:00 AM PDT Competitive eating contests give you the chance to win prize money and enjoy a very hearty meal. Eating contests come in all forms. You may be competing over spiciness, speed, quantity, or some combination of factors. To blow away your competition and win contests, you'll need to prepare in the months and weeks before the contest. Adhere to a strict training plan right before the contest starts and follow a clear strategy during the contest itself. Soon enough, you'll be sporting a gold medal! EditDoing Long-Term Preparation - Consult with your doctor to make sure you can participate. Eating contests can be tough on your digestive system and overall health. You'll also need to exercise regularly to stay healthy while training. Either call or make an appointment with your doctor to have a conversation about whether you can handle the contest.
- Pick your contest. Go online and use your favorite search engine to find contests near you, or in the closest major city. Choose a contest where you'll be eating food you enjoy, as this will make training and competing easier. Decide whether you want to compete over speed and quantity, or something else.
- Most contests will require you to try to eat the largest amount of a certain food in a timed competition. This means you'll need to train to eat a lot of food as quickly as you can.
- Other contests may just want you to eat their Mega-Hot spicy wings.
- Make sure it's a contest you're allowed to compete in. Some are reserved for "amateurs," and they'll bar professional eaters from competing.[1] This means that if you've already earned money from winning an eating contest, you won't be allowed in.[2]
- Learn the rules of the contest to train properly. There are lots of strategies competitors use to win, but some won't be allowed at certain competitions. Check your competition's website or call to ask about specific strategies and requirements, including:[3]
- Dunking, which means that you "dunk" foods into liquids before putting them in your mouth. This makes solids easier to chew and swallow.
- Anything-goes eating, which allows you to do anything you want to eat food faster.
- Picnic-style eating, which means that you need to eat food how it's meant to be eaten. You can't dunk, mash food up into balls, or separate items that go together (a hotdog and a bun, for example).
- Set up a strategy designed for your contest. Once you know the rules, plan for them. Write down all the different elements of the meal you'll be eating, and think about how you'll tackle each one. Determine what parts of the contest will be easiest and hardest for you based on your current eating habits.[4]
- For example, if you know your mouth gets dry when you eat lots of bread, stuffing buns in your mouth is going to be tough. Plan to address this in training, and strategize by sipping liquids with the breads.
- Increase your jaw strength by chewing faster. As soon as you've signed up for your contest, begin doing long-term training. Chew gum whenever you can. When you eat, chew faster. These exercises will help strengthen your jaw.[5]
- Learn to swallow bigger bites for speed eating. Start by training with water. Take a big gulp, tilt your head back, and allow gravity to help you swallow. Increase the amount of water until your mouth is completely full, and try to swallow this gulp. Practice daily.[6]
- Once you're comfortable with water, graduate to soft foods like rice and quinoa. You can then do more difficult foods, like steak. Move slowly through this process, as you don't want to choke.
- Never do this kind of training without another person present. If you do have a problem, you need to be able to get help quickly.
- Train with low-calorie, high-fiber foods. If your eating contest will judge you on the quantity of food you can eat, you'll need to work on expanding your stomach. Begin eating large amounts of low-calorie, high-fiber foods that fill you up quickly.[7]
- How much you need to eat depends on your size and competition. Some competitive eaters will eat several pounds of cooked or raw cabbage, for example, in a single sitting while in training.[8]
- High-fiber foods will make you feel fuller earlier, and you'll stay full longer. This will make training with them more difficult than with other foods, because you'll be fighting against that feeling of fullness.[9]
- You can also train with fruits like grapes and melons, as well as steamed mixed vegetables.
- While some competitive eaters also train by chugging gallons of water or milk in a single sitting, this could be dangerous for your health. Stick with the cabbage.
EditTraining Right before the Contest - Use training sessions to figure out which techniques work for you. Try different strategies, such as dunking, tilting your head back to swallow, or eating lots of small bites that you can swallow without lots of chewing. Pick the ones that work best for you.[10]
- Remember to stick to the rules of the competition in all your training sessions.
- Eat the exact food from the contest two weeks out. Use the competition website or call to find out the exact brands and preparation of the foods you'll be eating. Mimic this meal as closely as you can to get used to the food. Don't eat the amount of food you'll be eating at the contest, however.[11]
- This will help you anticipate any trouble spots with the meal.
- You should do this a minimum of one time, and a few more times if you feel like you need the extra preparation.
- Begin expanding your stomach one week before the contest. During the beginning of the week, eat one extra large meal during the day, then keep your other meals normal. On days four and five, you should have two large meals only.[12]
- The actual meal sizes will depend on you and your typical portions. As a general rule, try doubling what you'd normally have.
- For the beginning of the week, consider eating a light breakfast and having the large meal at lunch. You can then eat a normally sized dinner.
- For the end of the week, have your large meals in the mid-morning and mid-afternoon.
- Eat a max-out meal 22 hours before the contest. A "max-out" meal means that you should eat as much as you physically can in one sitting. Make this a low-calorie meal with high-fiber foods. Be sure to have this meal no less than 18 hours before the beginning of the contest.[13]
- Visit an all-you-can-eat salad bar and continue eating until you're at the point of discomfort. You don't want to go too far, however, and make yourself sick.
- This is the last real meal you should have before the contest.
- Drink water and get sleep the night before. Wait an hour after your max-out meal, then begin drinking some water to help your digestion. Get as much sleep as you can to feel rested on the morning of the contest.[14]
- Avoid eating solid foods on the morning of the contest. Wake up several hours before the contest begins to get your body moving. Drink a large glass of water and eat a non-solid breakfast an hour after you get up.[15]
- For non-solid foods, try a protein shake or a yogurt.
- If your contest is in the late afternoon or evening, you can add some light solids to your breakfast, such as eggs or cereal.
- You may also want to exercise before the contest, as this could increase your hunger level. Don't overdo it, as you don't have a lot in your body to keep you going. Try a brisk walk or a light jog for 20 minutes.
EditStrategizing during the Contest - Use a stopwatch to keep track of your time. The contest officials will almost certainly keep time for you. They'll also periodically tell competitors how much time is left. Still, it's a good idea for you to have your own watch. Place it somewhere you can easily see it while eating.[16]
- Be sure to follow the rules. Remind yourself of the rules before the contest begins. Don't break any of them, as this will automatically disqualify you from most contests.[17]
- Listen to music to stay focused. So long as it's not against the rules, bring headphones and something to play music on. You can create a special playlist designed to help you focus. Be sure to put music that pumps you up at the end of the list, as you'll need the extra help.[18]
- If you need ideas for songs, look online for "music to keep you going during an eating contest." Music for workouts will also work well.
- Eat proteins first. Attack the meats while they're still warm, fresh, and taste good. These will also be some of the heavier elements of the contest, so it's important to get these down as fast as you can.[19]
- Move on to carbs next. Once you've finished the meats, you can move on to the carbs (such as buns and french fries). These pair well with liquid, so you can sip on something to help them go down easier.[20]
- Eat fast in the beginning but finish strong. Take advantage of your high energy at the beginning of the contest and eat quickly. Once you've gotten past that initial burst of energy, settle into a steady rhythm. Use this rhythm to help push you through to the end. You want a completely clean plate when it's all over![21]
- Add new flavors with different beverages to keep yourself going. Usually, contests will allow you to pick your beverages. Plan to have a cup of water, something flavored but non-carbonated, and something carbonated and flavored. To keep your taste buds energized throughout the contest, drink the water in the beginning, the non-carbonated beverage next, and something like a soda last.[22]
- Hop up and down to swallow faster. If you're allowed to stand up and move around, use this move to allow gravity to help you out. Be sure it doesn't interfere with the rhythm of you picking up food and taking new bites, however. [23]
- Only try this if you found that it worked for you in training.
- Press against your stomach to push food lower. If you start really feeling full, gently push on your stomach. You may be able to move the food down slightly, giving you more room.[24]
- To win an eating contest, you need to be confident that you can do it! Attitude is key.
- Don't sign up for more than one or two contests per month. You should also train with lower-calorie foods when you can, and make sure you maintain a very steady exercise plan.
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| How to Fix Salsa if You Made It Too Hot Posted: 01 Oct 2017 01:00 AM PDT Whether you forgot to deseed your peppers or used a tablespoon of cayenne instead of a teaspoon, making salsa too spicy is an easy mistake. However, there's no need to throw out your dish if tasting it left you with flames shooting from your ears. Try adding cooling ingredients like citrus juice, fruit, or dairy. If you don't want to get experimental, just make another batch without the spicy ingredients, then combine it with the original batch. You'll have twice as much salsa as you planned for, but you can easily can or freeze any leftovers. EditTaming the Heat - Add more tomato to red salsas. If your salsa is tomato-based, just add a little more chopped tomato. As with any additional ingredient, the amount needed will depend on the size of your batch and how mild you need it to be.[1]
- Try adding half a tomato for starters, then add more to taste.
- Keep a glass of milk handy to cool off after your taste tests!
- Grab some citrus, sugar, or honey. Adding acid and sweetness are well known ways to tame a spicy dish. Try squeezing in the juice of a quarter lime and a half teaspoon of sugar or honey.[2]
- Remember you can always add more, so mix in additional flavors little by little and taste as you go.
- Mix in a cilantro and citrus puree. Cilantro and citrus were probably in your original recipe, so adding a little more will help you tone down your salsa without changing it too dramatically. Strip the leaves from a dozen or so cilantro sprigs, chop them coarsely, then blend them with the juice or a lime or an orange.[3]
- Add a teaspoon at a time until you've gotten your salsa under control. If you have any leftover, it'll make a great condiment for tacos, sandwiches, eggs, and stir fries.
- Try chopped cucumber or avocado. Get your salsa cool as a cucumber! Adding cucumber or avocado can ease the heat but, if they weren't in the original recipe, they might change your salsa's texture and flavor. If you're open to a little experimentation, chop up one or both to mix in with your salsa.[4]
- Tone down the heat with pineapple, peaches, or melon. As with cucumber or avocado, adding sweet fruits will really switch up your original recipe, but you might come up with something delicious. Try dicing up fresh or canned pineapple, a ripe peach, watermelon, cantaloupe, or honeydew. Fold the fruit in a little at a time, and stop when you've achieved your desired spice level.[5]
- Serve a scoop of sour cream. If all you have on hand is sour cream, you're in luck - dairy is a powerful spice neutralizer. You could just serve your salsa with a scoop of sour cream on top or on the side. If you're open to making a different kind of dip, mix sour cream into the salsa until you've curbed the burn.[6]
EditDoubling Your Batch - Make another batch of salsa without any spice. If you want to stick with your original recipe, your best bet is to make another batch without the jalapenos, cayenne, or other spicy ingredients. Roast your tomatillos, dice your onions and tomatoes, chop your cilantro, squeeze your citrus, and do any other prep according to your recipe.[7]
- If you're serving salsa at a party, it might be best to stick to a recipe you know. Tweaking your salsa by adding new ingredients is like an experiment, and you might not want to use your guests as guinea pigs.
- Refrigerate your salsa if you need to make an ingredient run. You probably bought the amount of ingredients needed for one batch, so a quick trip to the grocery store might be necessary. If you need to go to the store, just cover your salsa and store it in the fridge.
- Acid in the salsa helps prevent bacterial growth, but it still shouldn't be left out for more than a couple hours.[8]
- Combine your two batches. After you've purchased and prepped ingredients for the second batch, mix them up with your super spicy salsa.[9] If you filled up your largest mixing bowl with the original batch, you might have to get creative.
- If you have a large stainless steel roasting pan or saucepan, try pouring half of each batch into it. You should then have enough room in your mixing bowl to add the rest of the second batch.
- Avoid aluminum products, which will react with the acid in the salsa and leave your dish with an unpleasant metallic taste.[10]
- You could also use the largest freezer bags you have to mix your batches.
- Simmer leftover salsa before canning or freezing it. The main issue with doubling your batch is that you're left with an insane amount of salsa. Whether you plan on canning or freezing your leftover salsa, you'll need to simmer it to reduce water content and kill germs, which is an essential part of the canning process.[11]
- Simmer your salsa uncovered in deep saucepan over low heat, and stir frequently. Depending on your salsa's water content, simmer it for up to 60 minutes, or until you've achieved a thick consistency.
- Make sure your recipe is suitable for canning. Salsa needs to be acidic enough to be safely canned, but not all recipes contain enough acid.[12] Your recipe should note whether it's suitable for canning. If you're not sure, just freeze it to stay on the safe side. You can store frozen salsa for up to six months.[13]
- If you accurately doubled the ingredients other than peppers in a suitable salsa recipe, your double batch should still be acidic enough for canning. It's vital to accurately double the acidic ingredients without overdoing the non-acidic ingredients. If you're not sure about your accuracy, just freeze the leftovers.
- Thaw your salsa in the refrigerator. When the time comes to thaw your salsa, the fridge is your best option. Slowly thawing it in the refrigerator will help prevent it from becoming too watery. Most likely, it will still have a little more water content that you want, but you can just strain it to remove excess liquid.[14]
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| How to Build a Pyramid for School Posted: 30 Sep 2017 05:00 PM PDT Do you have an assignment to make a model of an Egyptian pyramid? It's a fun school project that can be approached in a variety of ways. Though there are lots of methods out there, you can easily make a realistic-looking pyramid out of cardboard, sugar cubes, or clay. EditUsing Cardboard - Gather your supplies. This cardboard pyramid looks like a realistic flat-sided pyramid, but it's lightweight and doesn't take very long to put together. You probably have most of the supplies on hand already. For this project you will need:[1]
- A large flattened cardboard box or piece of cardboard
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Hot glue gun and sticks
- Brown or black permanent marker
- White school glue
- Paint brush
- Sand
- Cut out a cardboard square. Cut out a square of cardboard that is 14 inches (35.5 cm) by 14 inches (35.5 cm). This square will be the base of the pyramid.[2]
- You can make the base in any size you need, but keep in mind that the rest of the measurements will need to be altered if you change the size of the base.
- Cut out four cardboard triangles. Use your ruler and pencil to draw four triangles with 8-inch (20.3 cm) bases that are 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall.[3]
- Place a dot 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the center point (which is at 4 inches or 10.2 cm) of the bottom line to create a perfect triangle.
- You can use a craft knife instead of scissors if the cardboard is stiff and difficult to cut.
- Hot-glue the triangles together. Lean the triangles in so that their points meet and create a pyramid shape. You can temporarily tape them together or have a friend or family member help you if it's tricky to get all four pieces to stay together. Then, seal the edges together with a line of hot glue.[4]
- Be very careful when using hot glue, as it can burn you. Keep your hands away from the nozzle and the glue. Make sure you have a safe surface to rest your hot glue gun on when you're not using it as well.
- Hot-glue the pyramid to the square. Center the pyramid on top of the square. Put a line of hot glue along all four bottom edges of the pyramid and press it down in the middle of the square.[5]
- Let the glue dry completely. It's important to allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step. Wait a few hours before moving on to ensure your pyramid doesn't fall apart.[6]
- Draw "bricks" on the pyramid. Use a brown or black permanent marker to draw horizontal and vertical lines on the pyramid that look like bricks. This will make your pyramid look more realistic.[7]
- Paint the pyramid with white school glue. Pour some white school glue into a dish and use a paintbrush to paint the entire cardboard pyramid with an even coating of glue. Don't forget to cover the edges, too, so you'll be able to hide the cracks with sand.[8]
- Alternatively, you could rub a glue stick over the cardboard before adding the sand.
- Sprinkle on the sand. Before the glue dries, cover the pyramid with sand. Try to sprinkle on an even amount so that the entire pyramid is evenly coated in a layer of sand.[9]
- Let the pyramid dry. Allow the pyramid to dry overnight, rather than finishing this project the day that it's due. This way the glue and sand will be firmly stuck on and your finished product will look great.[10]
EditUsing Clay - Collect your materials. Making a clay pyramid allows you to get creative by making realistic indents and grooves in the walls to resemble an ancient Egyptian pyramid. You'll need the following materials for this method:[11]
- A large ball of modeling clay (the kind that air dries)
- A piece of cardboard
- Rolling pin
- Knife
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Paint (sandy brown color)
- Paintbrush
- Cut out the cardboard base. Use the ruler and pencil to draw a square on your piece of cardboard. An 8-inch by 8-inch (20.3 cm by 20.3 cm) base is a good size, or you could make a larger base if you have plenty of clay. Cut out the square when you're finished.[12]
- Roll out the clay. Knead the clay into a ball, the place it on a clean, dry surface. Use the rolling pin to roll out the clay to a thickness of 1 inch (2.5 cm).[13]
- Cut a square out of the clay. Cut a 6-inch by 6-inch (15.2 cm by 15.2 cm) square out of the clay. Center it on top of the cardboard base.[14]
- Cut additional squares out of the clay. The next layer should be 5 inches by 5 inches (12.7 cm by 12.7 cm), followed by 4 inches by 4 inches (10.2 cm by 10.2 cm), 3 inches by 3 inches (7.6 cm by 7.6 cm), 2 inches by 2 inches (5.1 cm by 5.1 cm), and finally 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm by 2.5 cm). Stack each layer in the center of the previous layer.[15]
- Bevel the edges and create ridges. Press your ruler against the sides of the squares to slant them slightly downward. You can also create ridges by using the knife to make markings that look like stone shapes in the sides of the pyramid.[16]
- Let the clay dry. Leave it alone for several hours, or even overnight, to give the pyramid time to dry and harden. Refer to the instructions on the clay packaging if you're unsure how long it takes to dry completely.[17]
- Paint the pyramid. Pour the paint into a dish and use the paintbrush to spread an even coating on the pyramid. Alternatively, cover the pyramid in a light coating of white school glue and sprinkle it with sand before the glue dries.[18]
- Allow your project to dry. Let your finished pyramid to dry overnight. Then, take it to school and show off your hard work.[19]
EditUsing Sugar Cubes - Assemble your supplies. This simple pyramid looks like a step-sided pyramid, with individual "stones" visible instead of flat sides. It requires just a few household supplies, including:[20]
- A large box of sugar cubes (around 400 cubes)
- A piece of cardboard
- A ruler
- A pencil
- Scissors
- White school glue
- Paint (sandy brown color)
- Paintbrush
- Cut a cardboard square. Use your ruler and pencil to draw a 12-inch by 12-inch (30.5 cm by 30.5 cm) square. Cut out the square and use it as the base for your pyramid.[21]
- Make a sugar cube square. Create a 10 by 10 square base of sugar cubes in the center of the cardboard square (using 100 sugar cubes total). Glue down each sugar cube using white school glue.[22]
- Add the second layer to the pyramid. Position a 9 by 9 square of sugar cubes in the center of the first layer (using 81 cubes). Glue down each sugar cube.[23]
- Continue adding layers. Each layer should be 1 cube smaller than the previous layer, so the next layer is 8 by 8 (64 cubes), then 7 by 7 (49 cubes), 6 by 6 (36 cubes), 5 by 5 (25 cubes), 4 by 4 (16 cubes), 3 by 3 (9 cubes), 2 by 2 (4 cubes), and finally a single sugar cube on top.[24]
- Let the glue completely dry. Allow the glue to dry for several hours to ensure all the sugar cubes are firmly in place.[25]
- Paint the pyramid. Use a paintbrush to paint the entire pyramid a sandy brown color. Use only a small amount of paint, and be careful not to damage the pyramid as you go.[26]
- Let the pyramid dry. Allow the pyramid to dry completely overnight. You can then proudly present it at school.[27]
- Working with glue is messy so lay newspapers down before you start.
- Decorate the area around the base of the pyramid with sand, a faux Nile River, and other Egyptian elements.
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| How to Unravel Dreads Posted: 30 Sep 2017 09:00 AM PDT Having dreadlocks doesn't mean you have to cut off your hair when you want a change. Dreadlocks can be unraveled, but you'll need to work slowly and get messy. It's important to first wash and condition your hair to make it as soft as possible. Using a metal comb, you can then separate the hair and flatten it back to its natural state. With a little patience, your hair will look as good as new. EditWashing the Dreadlocks - Separate big knots with your fingers. Do your best to pull apart any knotted dreadlocks or matted parts in your hair. Move gently and don't try forcing any resistant areas unless you don't mind pain and hair loss. You'll be thankful you spent time now separating these parts, since they won't turn into a tangled mess when you wash your hair.[1]
- Wash your hair with shampoo. Wet dreadlocks are far easier to unravel than dry ones. Although many wearers keep their hair damp while unraveling, an initial wash makes it that much softer. Let your dreads soak in hot water until they feel saturated. Then, massage in your usual shampoo.[2]
- Specialized dreadlock removal shampoo can be ordered online, but it isn't necessary. Any store-bought brand is fine and won't cost you an arm and a dread.
- Rinse out the soap and debris. Put your hair back in the hot water. Luxuriate in it until all the suds wash from your dreads. This removes the wax and other natural buildup that holds the dreads together. You'll have a lot of it after keeping this hairstyle for so long!
- Rub conditioner into dreads for cheap and easy lubrication. Spread conditioner over your hair and use your fingers to massage the conditioner deep into each dreadlock. Don't rinse off the conditioner yet. Make sure you've got each strand of hair nice and coated, since the conditioner makes unraveling so much easier. You can use more as needed later. Cheap store-bought conditioner is the best option because you may end up using lots of conditioner.[3]
- Specialized dreadlock removal conditioner also exists and can be ordered online, but it isn't necessary. You can wash your hair with whatever standard conditioner you have on hand.
- Cheap store-bought conditioner is recommended, since you'll need to use a lot of it to keep your dreads moisturized.
- Use natural oils in place of conditioner for additional protection. Oils including coconut, jojoba, or even olive oil can also be used to moisturize dreads. Because they're natural, some people prefer them. They're easy for your skin to absorb and fortify your hair against combing damage. If you don't care about those potential benefits, commercial product will be fine and probably save you money.[4]
EditUnraveling the Dreadlocks - Separate a dreadlock with a metal comb. Unraveling starts with one single dreadlock. Start near the end of the dreadlock with a metal tine on a sturdy comb. Try to push the tooth through the hair. You'll likely feel some resistance, so push harder. If you can't pierce it, you're starting too high and need to move the comb closer to the free end of the dreadlock.[5]
- Look for rat-tail combs online or at a beauty supply store. These have a metal tip to use for piercing, so you won't have to wear out the tines on a good comb.
- A crochet hook can also be used instead of a comb. It can feel easier to control than most combs.[6]
- Remoisten the hair with water. Remember, you need your hair to stay damp or else it'll fight you more than usual. A simple way to do this is with a cup of water. Hold the cup and dunk the dread into it. Wait until the hair feels saturated. Remoisten your hair whenever it starts feeling too dry or difficult to unravel.[7]
- A spray bottle can also be used instead of a cup, but you'll probably have to refill it a few times. You may also mix a little conditioner into the spray bottle for extra moisturization.
- Comb the split parts of the dreadlock. Now you get to use a comb for its intended purpose. Smooth out the tangles below the point where you split the hair. Comb all the way down to the end, taking care not to rush or otherwise stress your hair. You'll still notice a decent amount of hair falling out, but don't worry, this is normal.[8]
- Most of the hair that falls out is old hair. Hair that would have normally fallen into your shower drain got trapped in your dreads.
- Continue splitting and combing the dreadlock. Splitting the dreadlock gets tedious, but you'll be happy when your hair stays healthy and whole. Take up the comb or other splitting object again. Pick up the same dreadlock you split earlier. Move up beyond the split point and split the hair again. Comb out the tangles below it, then continue splitting and combing until the dread is fully unraveled.
- Remember to keep your hair damp with water and conditioner as you do this.
- Repeat piercing and combing for other dreads. Now you'll have to repeat the same process for every other dread you want to unravel. Remember to start the split near the bottom of the dread, since this is where it offers the least resistance. Keep on splitting and combing. It's a labor of love when you need to remove lots of dreads, but it has to be done.
- Wash your hair again. Give your hair a reward for all the stress it has endured. Load it with your ordinary conditioner. Avoid shampoo, since you've already used it once today and shampooing too often dries out hair. After you've rinsed it off, comb it out again. Your hair is bound to look a little messy, but continue to wash with conditioning and comb for the next few days. It'll soon be ready to be styled again.
- Use deep conditioner or natural oils instead of regular conditioner. Some people swear by deep conditioners. These products have less chemicals than cheap conditioners and prevent damage to your already stressed hair. Natural oils, including coconut oil, are another option for those who prefer conditioning with no commercial product at all.
- Both of these products are rubbed in and washed out like you would with any other conditioner.
- Most hair loss you notice after unraveling a dread is hair that already fell out. Even if your hair looks a little thin, it will grow back.
- Wait a few days before attempting to change your style. Your hair will need this time to change back to normal.
EditThings You'll Need - Lots of water
- Plenty of cheap conditioner
- Shampoo
- Cup or spray bottle
- Rat-tail comb
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| How to Get Spray Paint off a Car Posted: 30 Sep 2017 01:00 AM PDT There's nothing quite like waking up to find that your car's paint job has been defaced by mischievous kids with a can of spray paint. When vandals strike, don't panic. There are lots of methods to remove spray paint, but the most effective are acetone nail polish remover, detailing clay, and carnauba wax. EditUsing Acetone or Nail Polish Remover - Get a bottle of acetone, or nail polish remover containing acetone. You may not have acetone on hand, but you may have a bottle of nail polish remover. Nail polish remover is formulated to take the enamel layer off fingernails, which is essentially what you're attempting to do with your car's finish. Any brand will work, and the higher the percentage of acetone, the better.[1]
- Pour acetone or nail polish remover onto a cloth. Choose a terrycloth or microfiber towel so that you don't scratch the clear coat or paint on your car. You'll want to keep the cloth wet at all times, so if it starts to dry out, add more acetone or nail polish remover.[2]
- Wear gloves to protect your hands from the acetone or nail polish remover and paint transfer.
- Rub the cloth gently onto the spray paint. Use small, circular motions to remove the spray paint from your car. Rub very gently, or you risk removing the clear coat or the paint on your car, rather than just the spray paint. The paint will transfer from your car to the cloth, so switch out your cloths often.[3]
- Wash your car after removing the spray paint. You'll want to thoroughly wash and rinse your car after removing the spray paint. Pay special attention to the spray painted area to get rid of all traces of the paint as well as the acetone or nail polish remover.
EditUsing Detailing Clay - Wash and dry your car. This step is important to remove surface dirt before applying the clay. You can wash your car by hand, or take it through an automatic car wash. If the spray paint is very fresh, the hot water and soap may even remove some of the paint.[4]
- Get detailing clay. Detailing clay is a polymer abrasive which will remove anything sitting on top of the paint on your car, without scratching or damaging the surface. There are several varieties available, including Detailer's Pride Clay.[5] Another option is Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit, which includes detailing spray (which you would use as a lubricant for the clay), as well as wax and a microfiber cloth.[6]
- These detailing clays should be available at your local auto parts store.
- Knead the clay. You only need a small, flat section the size of your palm, so if you bought a new bar you should cut it in half. Then, seal it in a Ziploc bag and place it in a bucket or bowl of warm water, which will warm up the clay so you can manipulate it more easily. Take the half of the bar and knead it in your hands. You want to form a pancake or patty with the clay.[7]
- Apply a clay lubricant. A lubricant is necessary so that your clay will glide over, rather than stick to, the paint. Shake the lubricant, then spray it onto the clay and also onto the paint on your car. Use an ample amount so that your clay won't smudge onto the car.[8]
- Clay lubricant should be available at your local auto parts store.
- Rub the clay over the spray paint. Hold the clay in your hand so that your fingertips are not covered by the clay -- you want it to be a little lower in your palm. Rub the clay back and forth with a firm pressure, like you would rub a bar of soap over your skin. Keep rubbing the clay over the spray paint until the paint is removed.[9]
- When your clay becomes covered in contaminants, fold it over and re-knead it to form a clean patty.
- Wipe the residue off. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe the clay residue off the car. Apply a light pressure and rub the cloth over the area where you applied the clay.[10]
- Wax your car. Claying the car removes previous wax, so it's important to wax your car to protect from further damage and restore the shine to your clear coat. Apply the wax in a circular motion, using the tool or sponge that comes with the wax, or use a soft rotating buffing tool.[11]
EditUsing Carnauba Wax - Purchase liquid carnauba wax. Products like Butter Wet Carnauba Wax contain carnauba oils that will break down the spray paint. The wax will not damage or scratch your paint or clear coat, but will simply remove the spray paint from the surface of your car. You should be able to find a liquid carnauba wax at your local auto parts store, but if not, you can order it online.[12]
- Apply the wax to a sponge. Put an ample amount of the liquid wax onto a soft sponge or cloth. Squirt it on or add several dollops to your sponge. Apply more as you go, and don't be afraid to use a lot of the wax as it is needed to break down the paint.[13]
- Rub the sponge on the spray paint. Using firm pressure and circular motions, rub the waxed sponge onto the affected area of your car. Make sure you get all the overspray and any errant dots or drips. Flip your sponge over or get a new one once the surface is covered in spray paint transfer.[14]
- Buff off the wax. After removing the spray paint, you'll want to buff the wax off your car. Use a clean microfiber cloth to do the buffing. Rub the waxed area using small, circular motions.[15]
- Remove the spray paint as soon as possible, because the longer the paint bakes in the sun, the harder it will be to remove.
- If your car windows also got tagged with spray paint, acetone and a razor blade should clear it up easily.
- Don't use abrasive products, like rubbing compound, as they will further damage the paint on your car.
- Regardless of the method you choose, be sure to first test it on a small, inconspicuous spot.
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| How to Spider Curl Posted: 29 Sep 2017 05:00 PM PDT Many who get into weight lifting or strength training want big, strong biceps. The biceps is a two-headed muscle. To get the size and shape you want, you need to train both heads. You also need to train the brachialis muscle, which runs along the outside of your upper arm. A strong brachialis muscle will help your biceps heads develop higher peaks. Spider curls are a great biceps exercise because they work all parts of this muscle group.[1] EditPerfecting Spider Curls - Locate the right equipment. Typically you're going to need access to a gym if you want to do spider curls. Some gyms may have spider curl benches, but if yours does not, you can use a preacher curl bench.[2]
- Look for a preacher curl bench that's padded on both sides of the armrest. If you work out at home, you may be able to find a preacher curl or spider curl bench to add to your home gym. A used bench should be relatively inexpensive, or you can look for a similar piece of equipment that you can use the same way you'd use a preacher curl or spider curl bench.
- This exercise is typically done using a barbell rather than dumbbells.
- You can also use a Swiss ball – an elastic ball filled with air also known as a "balance," "exercise," "stability," or "Pezzi" ball. You'll need to find a larger one and can then lay against it with your chest, armpits over the top, and arms planted on the ball's other side.
- Set your weights. Choose the amount of weight to lift before you get in position for the exercise. You'll lay the barbell on the part of the preacher bench where you normally would sit if you were doing preacher curls.[3]
- You also can use dumbbells for this exercise, rather than a barbell. Just make sure you have your dumbbells firmly on the seat where you can get into position without them falling off.
- Use a thicker bar to activate your muscles more. If you don't have access to a thicker bar, you can wrap a towel around it. You may have to use a little less weight at first if you're using a thicker bar.[4]
- Lean over the bench. Once your weights are stable, go over to the front of the preacher bench and lean against it at a 45-degree angle. You're going to be leaning your chest against the part of the bench your arms would be on if you were doing preacher curls.[5]
- Rest your upper arms against the back of the preacher bench so that you can grab your weights with your arms fully extended.
- Choose your grip. How you position your hands impacts which parts of your biceps you target the most. Holding your hands closer together will target the outer head of your biceps. The further apart you move your hands, the more the inner head of your biceps is targeted.[6]
- You might want to experiment doing one set with a closer grip and then a second set with a wider grip to hit both heads of the biceps muscle.
- Curl the bar upward. Keeping your shoulders down and back, lift the bar towards your shoulders in a slow, controlled movement as you exhale. Only go up about three-quarters of the way to the top, maintaining tension for the whole movement.[7]
- Lower the bar back to start. As you inhale, release your elbows to return the bar to the starting position in a slow and controlled movement. Stop before you reach the bottom, going only about three-quarters of the way. That way you're maintaining consistent tension on your biceps muscles.[8]
- Do 10 to 20 repetitions. Build a set of spider curls with 10 to 20 repetitions, and try to do two or three sets. As the exercise starts getting easier, use bigger weights rather than adding additional sets or repetitions.[9]
- If you want to build bigger biceps, progressive overload is important. Keep track of the weight you're curling and increase it incrementally every week or so.[10]
EditBuilding Both Biceps Heads - Start with barbell biceps curls. Barbell biceps curls are perhaps one of the simplest exercises for your biceps, but they also are one of the most effective. If you don't have access to a barbell, you can do curls with dumbbells as well.[11]
- For standing barbell biceps curls, stand with your feet about shoulder-width apart with a little give in your knees and your back straight. Hold the barbell with palms facing outward, elbows extended. Curl the bar towards your chest, bending your elbows, then release back to starting position in a slow, controlled movement.
- You also can do seated biceps curls, either with a barbell or with dumbbells. Make sure your feet are flat on the floor and your back is straight.
- Add incline dumbbell curls. Incline dumbbell curls restrict movement in your back, which further isolates your biceps to an extent not possible with regular dumbbell curls. You may need to use a lower weight for this exercise than you did for regular biceps curls.[12]
- Lay on an incline weight bench with your feet flat on the floor. Hold the dumbbells with arms down by your sides. Rotate your arms so that your palms are facing forward.
- On an exhale, curl the weights, moving only your forearms. Keep your upper arms stationary. Then lower the weight in a slow, controlled movement as you inhale.
- Do one to three sets of 10 to 20 repetitions of this exercise. You can do both arms at once, or one at a time alternating sides.
- Target the inner head with Scott curls. For Scott curls, you'll need access to a preacher bench. Sit on the bench leaning against the angled side. Lodge your armpits into the pads so that your chest supports all of your weight. This angle keeps you from building momentum in your hips and core to help the biceps do their work.[13]
- You can do these curls with either barbells or dumbbells. Keep your hands close together, palms facing upward, and curl the weight toward your shoulder.
- Pause at the top and then release in a slow controlled movement to complete one repetition. Do one to three sets of 10 to 20 repetitions of this exercise.
- Increase stabilization with cable curls. If you work out at a gym that has a cable machine, you can use standing biceps cable curls to target all the stabilization muscles surrounding the biceps.[14]
- Stand in front of the cable machine and grip the ends of the cables with your palms facing each other. Lean back slightly with a straight back and flat shoulders. Leave a little give in your knees.
- On an exhale, curl the cable upward toward your chest, moving only your lower arm. Then lower the cable back to starting position in front of your hips. Do one to three sets of 10 to 20 repetitions of this exercise.
- You can also use dumbbells or rope handles to get the same (or even better results) as a cable machine. Keep these options in mind, as your gym may not be set up with two cables side-by-side to exercise with your arms completely free.
- Practice chin-ups. Curls can improve tone and definition as well as building size, but chin-ups are a functional movement that will increase strength in your biceps. This exercise also engages your entire upper body.[15]
- You can add resistance with a weighted belt or vest to provide progressive overload on this exercise as you get stronger.
- Exhaust your biceps with concentration curls. Concentration curls are a great exercise to end a biceps workout because you can use them to thoroughly exhaust the entire muscle group.[16]
- Do concentration curls while sitting to target the biceps muscle. Sit on the end of a bench with your feet flat on the floor and your knees at right angles. Lean over, bracing your right elbow against your right inner thigh. Hold a dumbbell with arm fully extended, palm facing your other leg.
- On an exhale, curl the weight upward toward your shoulder, then lower in a slow, controlled movement as you inhale. Do 10 to 20 repetitions of this exercise, then switch and do the other arm.
EditStrengthening Your Brachialis - Do hammer curls. Hammer curls directly target the brachialis. Strengthening that muscle supports and lifts your biceps, so your biceps will have higher peaks and be more defined.[17]
- Stand or sit with your arms at your sides. Grasp your dumbbells with palms facing each other so that the weighted ends are above and below your hands.
- Hold the weights with your elbows at right angles along your sides. Curl the weight up toward your shoulder, then lower in a slow, controlled movement. Do one to three sets of 10 to 20 repetitions of this exercise.
- Add seated alternating dumbbell curls. Seated alternating dumbbell curls work the full length of the muscle group, including both heads of your biceps and your brachialis. Switching back and forth between sides gives this exercise a nice rhythm.[18]
- Sit on a bench with your feet flat on the ground, knees at 90-degree angles. Keep your back straight and your shoulders flat. Hold one dumbbell on each side, palms facing each other.
- On an exhale, curl the weight in your right hand toward your chest, then lower it in a slow, controlled movement as you inhale. Immediately curl the weight in your left hand on your next exhale, then lower on an inhale to complete one repetition. Do one to three sets of 10 to 20 repetitions of this exercise.
- Turn dumbbell curls into Zottman curls. Zottman curls turn the focus more to your brachialis, particularly as you're lowering the weight. Do your dumbbell curls like normal, but as you go to lower the dumbbells, rotate them so that your palms are facing downward.[19]
- From the starting position, rotate the dumbbells again so that your palms are facing upward for the curl. Do one to three sets of 10 to 20 repetitions of this exercise.
- Try Smith machine drag curls. If there's a Smith machine in your gym, you can use it to build strength in both your brachialis and your biceps with drag curls. Start by standing inside the machine with your chest up and shoulders back, holding the bar in front of your upper thighs.[20]
- Shift your elbows back to curl the bar toward your upper abs, then drag the bar up your torso until your biceps are fully contracted. Then lower to complete the repetition. Do one to three sets of 10 to 20 repetitions of this exercise.
- Use close-grip chin-ups to target your brachialis. If you were already doing chin-ups as a functional exercise to build strength in your biceps, you can target your brachialis simply by changing your grip.[21]
- Start in a dead-hang position from the bar with your hands close together, using an underhand grip. As you raise yourself up over the bar, keep your elbows tight to your sides.
- Pause with your chin under the bar before lowering yourself in a slow, controlled movement back to a dead-hang.
- You can do chin-ups in sets, or do an interval of as many chin-ups as you can do in 30 seconds or a minute.
- The biceps and triceps are opposing muscle groups and should be balanced. For best performance, and to avoid injuries, add tricep exercises to your routine.
- You will also need to have a strong back, chest, and shoulders to work your biceps safely.
- Overemphasizing the biceps – and neglecting other muscle groups – can in time lead to joint problems. Balanced training is the key to having a strong body.
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| How to Resolve a Conflict at Work Posted: 29 Sep 2017 09:00 AM PDT You might experience conflict in the workplace for a variety of reasons, including promotion opportunities, salary disputes, feeling a lack of appreciation, and personal differences.[1] When conflict arises, realize that it's not the end of the world, and you don't need to get another job. Approach the situation maturely and seek to resolve the issue. Take the initiative to confront the problem, and remember to not make a work issue a personal issue. Say what you need to say and don't forget to listen to their side. Ask questions and seek clarification for things you're unclear about. Lastly, create some solutions and stick to them. EditApproaching the Conflict - Acknowledge the conflict. Pretending that nothing is wrong isn't the way to handle a conflict. Begin by admitting there's a problem that needs resolution. Acknowledge the conflict and the roles you and the other person have played in creating or sustaining the problem. Be honest with yourself about your own role in the situation.[2]
- Think about what factors are influencing the problem, such as scheduling, personality conflicts, feeling overworked, or disrupting some kind of perceived pecking order.[3]
- Look at not only your side, but the other side as well. Looking at both sides can help you understand the problem from both perspectives.[4]
- Focus on the problem, not the person. If the conflict is not personal, don't make it personal. Put your focus on the problem and finding ways to solve that problem. You can't change the person, and you will likely continue working with them. Even if you don't want to be friends with the person, keep your focus on the problem without making it a personal issue.[5]
- It's easy to feel personally attacked for something, especially if it's regarding your work. Do your best to not take things personally and keep everything within the lens of your work.
- Take the initiative. It is important to address issues as soon as possible to prevent them from becoming larger issues in the future. If you notice a problem, then address it right away. For example, you could hold a meeting to discuss the issue and work together to find a solution.
- Don't wait for the person to come to you. Be the first one to bring up the problem, no matter what your role is.
EditTalking it Over - Choose the right time and place to talk. A hurried conversation at your desk between emails and phone calls won't solve anything. Put some thought into talking with the person. You need an undisturbed location and time to address the issue.
- Decide whether you want to send an email or have an in-person discussion. If you speak in-person, do so away from other employees and when both of you have time to talk.
- Ask what's not working. If somebody has done something that made you angry or if you don't understand their actions, simply asking about it can make a world of difference. Don't assume that people do what they do to annoy or harm you. Sometimes, there's a good reason why that person does what he or she does. Other times, they may not even realize that they did something hurtful, and bringing it to their attention can clarify their intentions. Make an inquiry, not an accusation. Try to remain neutral and phrase your questions as matters of curiosity.[6]
- "Say, I was wondering why you brushed off my question yesterday," or "I've noticed that you cut my work down, and I'm wondering why that is."
- Listen to their perspective. When hashing things out with a coworker, don't make it all about you. Be willing to hear them out, listen to their perspective, and consider their feelings. Give them ample time to express their thoughts, feelings, and experiences. If they feel defensive, let them express that. Let them talk without interrupting them.[7]
- Don't take up the whole interaction with your side. Be willing to hear them out. You may gain more information or understand them better.
- Check to see if they're done speaking. Say, "Is there anything else you want to add or say to me?"
- Find things you agree upon. Find some common ground with the person. This might mean that both of you acknowledge that a problem exists or that something needs to be solved. Perhaps you can agree that both you and they need to do something to create resolution. Whatever it is, find something each of you can get behind.[8]
- For example, if you feel bullied, both of you might agree that you have problems getting along or splitting responsibilities.
- Say, "I want us to resolve this. Let's find some things we can agree upon so that we can move forward."
- Apologize for any wrongdoing. Apologize for your part in the conflict. Usually everyone involved has done something to create and sustain the conflict. Own up to how you contributed to the dispute and express regret and responsibility. Remember: you're not accepting the entire blame, you're taking responsibility for your contribution to the situation.[9]
- For example, say, "I'm sorry I said those hurtful things. I was upset, but it wasn't right of me to call you that."
- Resist acting on impulse. If your coworker says something offensive or hurtful, resist the urge to fire something harsh back. You might say something you regret or blow the issue out of proportion. If a conflict arises, take some time to think it over before immediately responding. You may come to realize that you misheard them, misunderstood them, or need further clarification.[10]
- Immediately responding will likely mean you respond in a negative way.
- Avoid accusations and blame. Keep from becoming defensive or blaming the other person. Even if you feel victimized, don't pour your negativity onto them. It might be tempting to call them out and let others know how they've wronged you, but keep some decorum as this is your workplace.[11]
- If you want to express how you feel wronged or hurt, use "I" statements. For example, say, "I felt really hurt when you took credit for the project during the meeting," instead of, "I can't believe you did that. You're a horrible person."[12]
EditCreating Solutions - Involve human resources (HR). Your human resources department can help you solve workplace conflicts. If the conflict is growing larger or you feel like you want to quit over it, now is the time to get HR involved. You may also want to involve your HR department if the conflict is personal or workplace morale is low for you and maybe even those around you.[13]
- Your HR department can send someone to mediate or get you and the other person talking more constructively. A good mediator will help the disputants find their own solution, not provide advice or push them toward any particular solution.
- Develop a plan for resolution. Once you feel like you've talked over the problem, propose possible solutions. Keep the focus on the future and how each of you can respond better.[14] Find points where you can compromise or work on communicating more effectively. Create a different way of problem-solving or working together, such as taking turns or writing things out instead of saying them out loud.
- If you can't create a plan on your own, involve your manager or HR in creating ways to approach conflicts.
- For example, if the person talks over you in meetings, say, "I want to be heard. Is it possible for you to wait until I finish speaking to chime in? If you start to talk over me, I will ask you to let me finish."
- Follow through on your plan. It's not enough to just create a resolution. Both you and the other person must follow through on any agreed-upon solutions. Discuss ways to stay accountable, whether that means that other co-workers will participate or your workplace will step in. Create a system to be accountable. You might want to include HR in enforcing any changes.[15]
- For example, if you struggle to have balance in projects, divvy up tasks before starting the project so that they feel fair and equal. Have someone neutral step in and get their opinion on the tasks.
- Make necessary changes. Depending on the dispute, you may need to make some changes, such as by changing your role in the workplace. For example, if you can't find a resolution, then consider changing departments or taking a different role in your workplace. If you know talking to the person will upset you or cause problems, engage only in "water cooler" discussions. Do what you can to avoid creating or perpetuating further disputes.
- Inviting the other person to discuss the issue may be the hardest part of the whole process. It can be remarkably hard to take that first step. Do it anyway!
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| How to Set Up a Parrotlet Cage Posted: 29 Sep 2017 01:00 AM PDT Parrotlets are a small variety of parrot that are becoming more common as pets. They make lovable companions, and setting up a cage for one doesn't require anything unusual. Look for one that's fairly roomy, and give it a new necessities, like food and water dishes, and a perch. A few toys will keep your birdy happy, as will a cage cover to ensure it gets plenty of rest. EditPicking the Right Cage - Give your bird room to stretch its wings. Parrotlets will like some space, so a cage that's about on each side and high will work perfectly fine. You can choose a larger cage if you like, but there's no need for it to be huge.[1]
- Choose a cage with narrow bar spacing. Parrotlets can get caught between the bars of cages if they're not properly spaced. There should be no more than between each bar.[2]
- Size up the cage's doors. The cage should have feed doors that the bird can access comfortably, so they shouldn't be too short or narrow. The cage should also have a main door that is big enough for your hand to fit inside when you need to pick up the bird or its food and water dishes.[3]
- Make sure the cage has a grated bottom. This will make it easy for your parrotlet to grasp onto it and walk around or rest. The cage should also have a pullout tray at the bottom so it will be easy to catch food, droppings, and anything else that falls through the grate.[4]
EditAdding the Necessities - Use only open feeding dishes. Some bird food dishes have a cover. However, parrotlets won't eat from this type. To encourage them to feed and drink adequately, choose simple dishes that are open.[5]
- Place the food and water dishes at one end of the cage. This will encourage your bird to use them together. The water should remain clean and free of droppings, so you may have to move the dishes around until you find a position that suits your parrotlet.[6]
- Install at least one perch. Choose one that is made of natural eucalyptus or manzanita wood. Cement or sand perches can also be used to help keep the parrotlet's nails worn down. If you use one of this type, place it relatively high up in the cage so that the parrotlet won't use it so much that their feet become worn down.[7]
- Don't use sandpaper-covered perches, however, since these can hurt your bird's feet.
- Keep your birdy entertained with some toys. Parrotlets will love some rings, ropes, bells, and other toys to play with. You can find good birdy toys at pet stores. Look for ones that are designed for cockatiels and conures, rather than smaller birds. [8]
EditFinding the Right Cage Location - Place the cage in a spot that's warm but not too toasty. Parrotlets will want to be kept out of drafts to stay comfortable. However, you should also avoid placing the cage in direct sunlight, since this may make the parrotlet feel hot or disturb its rest.[9]
- Cover the cage when your birdy needs to sleep. Parrotlets like lots of rest. You should plan on letting them have at least 12 hours of dark at nighttime. Placing a cover over the cage at the same period each night will help your bird get the rest it needs, especially if your area doesn't always have this much natural darkness.[10]
- Make sure to place the cage somewhere where it won't be a problem to get this much darkness, like a room that won't be used much at night.
- Put visual barrier between each cage. If you have multiple parrotlets, they can become agitated if they constantly see each other. To prevent this stress, you only have to block their view. For instance, put a piece of furniture or a large plant between each cage.[11]
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| How to Preserve Pinecones Posted: 28 Sep 2017 05:00 PM PDT Nothing can be preserved "forever," but there are ways to preserve things to help them last a little longer. Pinecones often come dirty and filled with tiny bugs, which can cause them to deteriorate sooner. With a little bit of cleaning and drying, however, you can help them last longer. You can preserve them even further by sealing them with varnish, paint, or wax. EditSoaking the Pinecones - Collect some pinecones. You can use ones that are already opened, or you can use ones that are closed. Keep in mind that if you use closed pinecones, they will open up during the baking process.
- Store bought pinecones already come cleaned and ready to use.
- Remove any debris caught inside the pinecones. This includes things like seeds, moss, and pine needles. You can do this with a pair of tweezers or a brush. Don't worry about being too precise here, however; the next step will help clean the pinecones further.[1]
- Prepare a solution of water and vinegar. Fill a sink, tub, or bucket with two parts water and one part white vinegar. How much water and vinegar you end up using depends on the size of your container and how many pinecones you are going to soak.[2]
- You can also use a solution of 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of water and 1 teaspoon of mild dish soap.[3]
- Soak the pinecones for 20 to 30 minutes. You need the pinecones to remain submerged during this step. If they don't stay down, you can weigh them down with a wet, heavy towel, a pot lid, or even a dinner plate.[4] The pinecones may close up during this step. Don't worry, they will open back up again.[5]
- Transfer the pinecones to a sheet of newspaper and let them dry overnight. Be sure to leave them in a well-ventilated area, as this will help increase airflow. If you don't have any newspaper on hand, you can use paper bags or an old towel instead.[6]
EditBaking the Pinecones - Preheat your oven to 200 to 250°F (94 to 122°C).
- Transfer the pinecones to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. If you don't have any parchment paper, you can use aluminum foil instead. Leave some space between each pinecone. This will allow the hot air to flow better between them. It will also give them room to open up.
- Bake the pinecones until they open up. This will take about 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes, but it may take longer.[7] Check the pinecones frequently so that they don't catch on fire. They are ready when they fully open and shiny.
- Transfer the pinecones to a wire cooling rack. Use a pair of oven mitts, tongs, or even a soup ladle to do this. Be careful while moving the pinecones; they will be very fragile.
- Allow the pinecones to cool. Once they are cool, you can paint them, display them, or seal them further. They will have a shiny coating on them, which is just melted sap. This can act as a natural preservative.[8] If you want to preserve them further, read on to the next section.
EditFinishing the Pinecones - Prepare your workspace and decide on a finishing method. Whether you are spraying your pinecone or dipping it in paint, you'll want to cover your counter or table with newspaper. If you are using a spray sealer, it would be even better to step outside. Once you have your space set up, choose a sealing method from the list below.
- Spray the pinecones if you want something quick and easy. Choose a non-yellowing spray varnish. Lay the pinecones on their sides, then spray them using an even coat. Wait for the pinecones to dry, then rotate them and spray the other side. Let the sealer dry before applying another coat.
- Spray sealers come in many different finishes: matte, satin, and glossy. Choose one that you like the best.
- If you don't have any spray varnish, you can try using hairspray instead.[9]
- Use a marine varnish if you want something more durable. Purchase a marine varnish from a hardware or home improvement store. Put on a pair of disposable gloves and hold the pinecone by the tip. Use a cheap, disposable brush with stiff bristles to apply the varnish to the pinecone, except for the bottom. Let the varnish dry, then hold it by its sides, and coat the bottom and tip. Let the pinecone dry on its side.
- You can apply more than one coat of marine varnish, but you have to let the previous coat dry fully.
- Alternatively, you can tie some thread to the top of the pinecone, then dip it into the varnish. Lift it out, and let any excess varnish drip off, then tie the string somewhere so that the pinecone can hang dry.
- Dip the pinecones in paint or varnish if you want a thicker coating. Wrap some string or thin wire around the top of a pinecone. Dip the pinecone into a can of paint or varnish. Lift the pinecone out, and hold it about the can for about 1 minute to let the excess paint/varnish drip back. Use the string or wire to hang the pinecone some place so that it can dry.[10]
- Keep a newspaper or tray under the pinecone to catch any drips of paint or varnish.
- Keep in mind that this method may cause the pinecones to close up again.[11]
- If the paint or varnish is too thick, thin it with water. Use 4 parts paint or varnish to 1 part water.[12]
- Dip the pinecones in beeswax as an alternative to varnish or paint. Melt enough solid beeswax in a crockpot to fully submerge the pinecone. Tie string around the tip of the pinecone, then use it to dip the pinecone into the melted wax. Lift the pinecone out, then dip it into a bucket of cold water.[13] You may have to repeat this step a few times to get an even coverage.[14]
- The more you dip the pinecone into wax, the more visible the wax will become. Your pinecone may end up yellow or white.
- Allow the sealer to dry and cure completely before using or displaying the pinecone. Read the label on your can of sealer for specific drying times and instructions.
- Most store-bought pinecones are already cleaned, treated for pests, and preserved.
- Use your preserved pinecones in wreaths or as vase fillers.
- Tie string to small pinecones and use them as ornaments.
- Display large pinecones on fireplace mantels or on tables.
- Keep sealed pinecones away from heat and open flame. The spray sealer/varnish is flammable.
- Do not leave any pinecones unattended in the oven. They can heat up quickly and catch on fire.
EditThings You'll Need - Pinecones
- Water
- White vinegar
- Bucket
- Baking sheet
- Aluminum foil or parchment paper
- Spray sealer or marine varnish
- Disposable plastic gloves (if using marine varnish)
- Cheap, disposable paintbrush (if using marine varnish)
- Crockpot and beeswax (if dipping)
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| How to Build Stairs Posted: 28 Sep 2017 09:00 AM PDT Stairs are an essential part of many construction projects, from decks to interiors. It can seem daunting to think of making your own, but they're actually made of just three main parts: stringers, treads, and risers. Stringers are diagonal 2x12s that support people's weight as they walk up the stairs. Treads are the top baseboards onto which you step, and risers are placed perpendicularly under each tread. Measure and cut the stringers accurately, and the other parts will mostly fall into place. EditMaking the Preliminary Measurements - Measure the height of the area where you will install the stairs. This is also called the total rise. If you don't plan to make the top step level with the area where the stairs begin, be sure to account for this gap in your measurement/[1]
- For example, if you are building stairs to go up to a deck, and you measure from the ground to the top of the deck, then this is the total rise.
- If you want the stairs to stop from the top of the deck, however, count the total rise as .
- Divide the total rise by the typical rise per step. This will give you the total number of steps on your stairs. The typical rise per step is about 7 inches (17.8 cm), but you'll probably use a slightly different height for the actual rise.[2]
- For example, if your total rise is 95 inches (241 cm), divide it by 7 inches to get 13.53. Round down to get the number of steps: 13.
- Divide the total rise by the number of steps to get the actual rise per step. Remember this will probably be slightly different than the typical rise height. Finding the actual rise per step will ensure that your steps are all the same height, no matter what your overall rise is.[3]
- To continue with the same example, divide 95 inches (241 cm) by 13 steps to get 7 and 5/16 inches (18.5 cm). On your stringer, each step will rise 7 and 5/16 inches.
- Establish the run of each step. The run (tread width) of each step should be no less than 9 inches (23 cm) and realistically at least 10 inches (25 cm). This allows enough space for the average foot to step comfortably and safely.[4]
- As a rule of thumb, the width of the treads and risers added together should equal between 16 and 18 inches (40 and 45 cm).
- So, if your riser is 7 inches (17.8 cm) tall, your tread should be anywhere from 9 to 11 inches (23 to 28 cm) long.
- Find the total run of the staircase. The total run is the horizontal distance the stairs will travel from beginning to end. To find this, simply multiply the total number of steps by the run of each step.
- For example, the total run in our hypothetical example is : 13 total steps x 10 inches (tread width) each = 130 inches (330 cm) total run.
- Decide if your stairs need landings. The longest boards suitable for building stairs will probably be 16 feet (4.88 meters) long. This means you will probably max out at about every 14 steps. If your stairs have a long rise and run, you can install landings. However, you can install landings on any staircase, if you prefer.
- If your staircase will have landings, consider each section of stairs as its own mini staircase.
- Calculate the length of the stringers. The stringers are the pieces of wood that will run diagonally underneath the length of the steps to hold them up. These are what your risers and treads will eventually be attached to. Determine their length the same way you determine the hypotenuse of a right triangle in geometry:[5]
- Multiply the horizontal length (run) by itself, multiply the height by itself, and add the two results together. Then, find the square root of this sum.
- Keeping with the previous example, sqr(130 x 130) + (95 x 95) = 161 inches (409 cm)
- Determine how you will attach the stairs to the existing structure. If the stairs will sit flush with the vertical face of the structure, attach your stringers to the existing framework. However, if the stairs won't sit flush with the existing structure (such as if they will attach to a deck with an overhang), be sure to either create a secondary support system or modify the tops of your stringers.[6]
- For example, if your stairs will mount beneath an overhang of a deck, making sure that the top step isn't level with the top of the deck.
- Instead, make the total rise slightly shorter and attach support posts to the top of the stringers.
- Count how many stringers you will need. To prevent your steps from sagging or bowing as you step on them, a wide staircase will need plenty of stringers underneath to keep it evenly supported. A very narrow staircase might be able to get away with having only two stringers, but it's best to start at three and work your way up as necessary.[7]
- For safety reasons, the stringers should be spaced approximately 16 inches (40.6 cm) apart.
- Wider staircases are generally preferable to narrower ones because they are much easier and more comfortable to navigate.
EditCutting the Stringers - Lay out a sufficiently long piece of 2x12-inch (5cmx3m) lumber. Don't cut it down to length just yet. It will sit at an angle that depends on the height and depth of your steps, and the ends will have to be modified.[8]
- Mark a carpenter's square to the height and depth of your steps. In our example, you would need to mark it at 7 and 5/16 inches (18.5 cm) on one side by 10 inches (25 cm) on the other. Be sure you know which side corresponds with the height (riser) and which side corresponds with the depth (tread).[9]
- Look for stair gauges at a hardware store. These are small knobs you can attach to your carpenter's square at the right measurements to make marking and cutting a breeze.
- Modify the top of the stringer to account for the overall angle. This angle will depend on the size of your steps. To do this properly:[10]
- Place the carpenter's square over one corner of the lumber. Lay the side marking the height along the end of the lumber and the side marking the step depth along the length of the lumber.
- Draw a line between the step-height and step-depth marks. This line marks the horizontal top of your stringer.
- Mark the line so that its length is equivalent to the depth of one stair.
- Use the square to draw a perpendicular line from the end of the board to the spot you just marked.
- Cut along these lines.
- Measure and mark each step along the piece of lumber. Using the horizontal top of the stringer as a reference point, measure and draw a line down a distance equal to the height of one step. Then measure and draw a line across a distance equal to the depth of the step. Repeat this, moving downward until you've drawn the necessary number of steps.[11][12]
- Use a circular saw or hand saw to cut the step notches. If using a circular power saw, cut to the edge of the marks on the stringers. Stop saw cuts 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch short of the opposite lines, then use a handsaw or jigsaw to finish.[13]
- Square off the bottom of the stringer so that it will sit flush with the ground. Draw a line parallel to the top of the last step notch, and perpendicular to the side of it (where the bottom riser will eventually go). Cut this away to make the bottom of the stringer flush with the ground.[14]
- Test the stringer by setting it in place. Make sure the height is accurate. The stringer should sit flush with the ground or floor and also with the point at the top where it will attach to the existing structure.
- Use the first stringer as a template off of which to base the next stringers. Lay the first completed stringer down on a 2x12 and simply trace the outline of the first stringer onto the other 2x12s. Then cut as necessary.
EditAssembling the Staircase - Install the stringers. There are many ways to attach the tops of the stringers to the structure. One easy way is to screw metal joist hangers to the floor joists or deck supports. Drive screws through the holes in the joist hangers, putting one edge flush with the end of the stringer and the other against the joist.
- Set the bottoms of the stringers on a firm footing like concrete, wood flooring, or even a block of treated lumber on top of gravel (for outside stairs).[15]
- Secure and stabilize the stringers by installing risers (toe boards). Stringers are usually made from 1x6-inch (2.54 x 15.4 cm) wood. Though you can do without them, screwing these planks vertically between each step will make the stairs look nicer, and last longer.[16]
- Cut 1x6s to the width of your stairs. Secure each stringer with 2 1/2 in. (6 cm) screws.
- Install the treads. Cut lumber to be at or slightly longer than the tread run in width, and as long as the stairs are wide (or just wider, if you prefer a slight overhang on the ends of your stairs. Secure the treads to the steps of the stringers with 2 1/2 in. (6 cm) screws over each stringer.[17]
- For instance, you could cut 1x10 lumber to the width of the stairs, and use this for your treads.
- For a special touch, use two boards and leave a 1/8 1/4 in (approximately 0.5 cm) between them. For instance, you could cut 1x5 boards to the width of the stairs, and install two on each step, with a gap between them.
- Attach trim boards to the outer stringers (optional). Trim boards can give your stairs a little more class by covering up the ends of the risers and treads. Cut 2x12 boards to the same length and angle as your stringers, but do not cut step notches into them. Place the cut lumber over the ends of your stairs, and fix into place with 2 1/2 in. (6 cm) screws.[18]
- Varnish, paint, or seal your stairs if necessary. Consider treating the wood against the elements, especially if the stairs will be outdoors. Even if you're building indoor-use stairs, finishing them will be a safeguard against everyday wear and tear, and beautify the end product.
- Almost any varnish, stain, or paint will work just fine for stairs.
- Always check building codes that apply in your area. These may stipulate particular minimums or maximums for step runs and rises, the number of stringers that are necessary, etc.
EditThings You'll Need - Circular saw or crosscut hand saw
- Carpenter framing square
- Stair gauges
- Corded or cordless drill
- Screws (at least 2 1/2 in. / 6 cm)
- Metal floor joist hangers
- 2x10-inch (5.1x25.4 cm.) planks for stringers
- 2x6-inch (5.1x15.4 cm.) planks for steps
- 1x6-inch (2.54x15.4 cm) planks for toe and foot boards
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| How to Prepare Henna Hair Color Posted: 28 Sep 2017 01:00 AM PDT By mixing henna powder with a slightly acidic liquid, you can dye your hair a temporary shade of red. Henna hair dye is safer on your hair than synthetic dyes because it contains no harsh chemicals. Before you apply henna to your hair, you will need to choose the right henna for your hair so it blends well with your natural color. You'll also need to learn how to mix henna and watch for signs of dye release after it has set. EditChoosing the Right Henna - Pick henna that will blend well with your natural hair color. Henna does not change your hair color entirely but instead blends with it. As the dye fades, it will return to your natural color. Choose a color you think would blend well with your natural hair color. If you have dark hair, choose a darker, richer henna color. If your hair is light, keep in mind that you may need to dye it multiple times to darken it.[1]
- Grey or white hair will dye closely to the color created by the dye. You will, however, have to apply the henna evenly to avoid darkening one part of your hair more than another.
- Most henna will dye your hair in tints of red. Darker henna (indigo henna) will dye your hair black, but still may have a red tint. Even blonde henna dye will result in a strawberry blonde.[2]
- Choose henna with a green, earthy color. Pure henna, when dry, will be a color between green and brown. It will also smell like grass clippings. Do not buy henna in other colors, or henna that smells like chemicals. Henna with either of those qualities may have been mixed with artificial hair dye.[3]
- Use indigo henna as an alternative for dark hair. Although indigo henna is not pure henna (as it is mixed with indigo powder), it is safe to use and ideal for darker hair colors. Indigo henna will dye your hair a deep black with tints of red. Unlike most henna, indigo henna has to be used quickly after mixing. Plan to use the indigo henna the same day that you mix it.[4]
- Make sure that your indigo henna does not contain PPD, which can be a skin irritant.[5]
- Make sure your henna is body art quality. Body art quality henna does not contain any additives or chemicals. This henna also contains more lawsone, a molecule that rinses out of your hair better and has a richer hair color. If you want to use henna alongside synthetic hair dye, you can dye over body art quality hair dye without damaging your hair.[6]
- If the henna is body art quality, it will say so on the package. Do not buy henna if it does not say this on the label.
EditMixing the Henna - Gather your henna and any desired additives. Besides your henna, you can also combine additives for different effects. If you dislike the smell of henna, you can add essential oils or rosewater for a pleasant scent and better setting dye.[7] For smoother henna, add sugar.[8] Lemon juice or vinegar can create brighter colors.[9]
- If you do not want to change the color or properties of the henna, just add water with a dash of lemon to oxidize the dye.
- Pour the henna powder and liquids into a bowl. Pour the henna into a bowl and gradually incorporate the liquid. How much liquid you need will depend on the henna box you purchased. Add a little at a time to avoid making your henna too watery.
- Consult the henna packaging for specifics on how much liquid to add.
- Henna is messy and will stain most surfaces. Wear gloves while you mix the henna, and wipe it immediately off of anything it spills on.
- Mix until the henna's consistency resembles yogurt. Continue mixing the henna and slowly adding liquids until your henna meets the right consistency. When your henna is finished mixing, it should be somewhere between the consistency of cake batter and yogurt.[10]
- Cover the henna bowl with plastic wrap. After you have mixed the henna and found an ideal consistency, wrap the henna bowl tightly in plastic wrap. Wrapping your bowl will allow your henna to set and oxidize. Your henna will now need to undergo dye release, where it will darken in color
EditMonitoring Dye Release - Let the henna paste sit overnight. Let the bowl sit in room temperature as it releases the dye. Make certain that the plastic wrap is tightly covered to quicken the process. If you do not have time to wait overnight, put the henna in a closed pot over a stove for 1-2 hours. Take the temperature of the henna and make sure it's around 90°F (or 32°C). Any hotter, and your henna may not have ideal consistency.[11]
- If you are using indigo henna dye, use it after mixing. Indigo henna has a shorter oxidation time.
- Dye release will occur best in room temperature. Do not place the henna in the refrigerator or freezer until after it has exhibited dye release.
- Check for dye release. You will be able to spot dye release by the surface. Your henna should be a dark brown color (or black, if using indigo dye) and have liquid pooling at the top. You can check the surface by pulling back the top layer with a spoon. If the top layer is darker than the bottom, your henna is ready to use.
- To test for dye release, put your paste in a plastic baggie. Put the baggie on top of a white paper towel. Dye molecules are small enough that they will slip through the plastic. If your paper towel turns slightly orange after a few minutes, your henna is exhibiting dye release.[12]
- Test the color before you dye your hair. Before you apply the mixture to your hair, put a small amount of henna paste on a spoon. Remove some of your hair from your hairbrush, and let the henna sit on the hair for several hours. After the henna has dyed the hair sample, decide whether the color is ideal for you. If not, prepare a new mixture.
- Use your henna within three to four days. Unless you are using indigo henna (which lasts for a shorter amount of time), your henna will last in the refrigerator for three or four days. If you need it to last longer, you can freeze it. Frozen henna can last up to several months with the same freshness as newly-mixed henna.[13]
- Keep the henna covered with plastic wrap while in the fridge or freezer to avoid drying your henna out.
- Henna will mostly dye hair in shades or tints of red. If you do not want a reddish tint in your hair, you may want an alternative way to dye your hair.
- Henna will dye wet hair best. Dampen your hair before you apply the henna.
- Henna cannot lighten your hair. Do not use a lighter henna on dark brown or black hair.
- Lemon juice is acidic and can dry out hair. Mix the lemon juice with other liquids (like water or essential oils) if you apply it to your henna.
EditThings You'll Need - Henna powder
- Bowl
- Spoon
- Lemon juice (optional)
- Sugar (optional)
- Essential oils (optional)
- Plastic wrap
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| How to Make Money Busking (Street Performing) Posted: 27 Sep 2017 05:00 PM PDT Busking (or street performing) is a great way to pursue your passion and gain more experience as an audience. If you put on a good show, you may even be able to turn your art into a career. Successful busking involves setting up the perfect stage, engaging with your audience, and performing well so passers-by give you tips. Whether you're a musician, a comedian, a juggler, or another performer, you can make money busking if you entertain your audience. EditChoosing the Right Location - Check busking rules in your area. Busking laws vary depending on location. Even different boroughs within a city can have different regulations. Contact your local authorities and ask what the busking laws are. You may have to get a permit, or you may be able to perform anywhere that isn't dangerous for pedestrians or on private property.[1]
- Always follow the law. Buskers can get arrested for playing in unauthorized areas.[2]
- Decide whether you want to do a walk-by or circle act. Walk-by acts are continuous, and you don't have a single audience the whole time. As people walk by, they may give you a tip in passing.[3] Circle acts have a set beginning and end, and a steady crowd stands around your act in a circle or semi-circle.[4]
- Most musicians perform walk-by acts.
- Circle acts generally last 10-20 minutes. You can perform three or four in one hour.
- Plan at least an hour of material. Busking is not synonymous with improvising. If you play the same three songs or perform the same tricks repeatedly, you will bore your audience. Before you busk, plan beforehand. Musicians should construct a tentative set list. Non-musical performers (like magicians, jugglers, or mimes) should plan four to five 10-20 minute acts to rotate between as their audience changes.[5]
- An hour is the minimum suggested time. If you want to busk for long periods of time, you can plan an hour and a half or even two hours of material.
- Select your repertoire based on your audience. You may love Baroque music, for example, but receive more tips from jazz or folk. Take listener requests, if asked. Scan the audience and choose music popular for their demographic. If you're not a musician, base your act on the audience you've accumulated. Magic shows for an older audience, for example, may involve more complicated illusions than one for children.[6]
- Find a venue with lots of foot traffic. The best busking spot is a relatively quiet place (so your act can be heard) with lots of foot traffic. You might choose, for example, a street corner, city square, outdoor mall, or farmer's market.
- Avoid residential areas or suburban neighborhoods.
- Choose a place based on your act. If you want to do a circle act, find a spot with lots of space. Musicians might look for an area with good acoustics.
- Prepare your stage. Once you've found your spot, prepare yourself a stage. Busking stages do not have to be elaborate. Put up a sign or banner, and write your name on it so people can look up your work later. Set up a microphone or speakers if needed.[7]
- Don't sit down on the sidewalk to perform. People might mistake you for a panhandler.
EditInteracting with the Audience - Smile and make eye contact with your audience. If you're shy or have social anxiety, step outside of your comfort zone. Don't close your eyes or look at the ground. Smile at your audience to appear friendly, and chat with them as they walk by. Acknowledge and thank tippers to show gratitude.[8]
- Emotional engagement can work wonders. Put passion into your work: smile, laugh, and speak both loudly and clearly.[9]
- Speaking to your audience directly will help them connect to you and invest in your performance.[10]
- Stand up. Don't sit down when you play or perform. Your audience will not connect with you as easily, and they may be less inclined to tip you. If you stand, people will spot you better as they walk by and they'll hear your act more clearly.[11]
- Build audience participation into your act. Audience participation (especially in circle acts) can be a great way to engage passers-by. Ask for volunteers to help you perform a certain trick or sing a song with you. Kids especially like to volunteer, and their enthusiasm can be contagious.
- It's okay to tease the audience a little, as long as no feelings are hurt.
- Respect others, and ask for respect in return. Treat your audience well, even if you draw the attention of a few hecklers. Get to know other buskers, and don't intrude on their busking spots. Stand up for yourself when needed, but always do so with kindness.[12]
EditMaking a Living - Set up a spot for tips. Put up a sign that says "Tips Appreciated," and set up an eye-catching tip jar. Hats, pots, baskets, or unusual containers all make great tip jars. Continuous acts keep their tip jars out constantly, but circular acts usually collect tips at the end of their act.
- Experiment with different venues and times. Finding the ideal spot or location for your act may take trial and error. Some performers may find that their perfect venue is near a tourist attraction on the weekends, while others may have the best luck in the subway on a Tuesday evening. Try several different places and keep record of which spots give you the best results.
- Holiday weekends are great for performing because people are in a festive mood.[13]
- Stay safe! Choose a place that is well-lit and legal for buskers to perform at.
- Have a business card on hand. Prepare business cards with your name and website or social media usernames to increase your platform. You can also bring merchandise like CDs to sell, so your audience has something to remember you by.[14]
- Deliver a "hat line" before your grand finale. A "hat line" is what buskers say while finishing a circular act to encourage tipping. Say it right before the finale so people stick around to see the most exciting part of the show. If you ask for tips after your finale, your audience may have already walked away.
- An example of a hat line might be, "Thank you, everybody! If you liked my tricks, you can leave a tip in the jar I'm passing around. Have a great evening!"
- Learn and improve from every busking performance. Pay attention to your audience as you perform and monitor their reactions. Record your busking experience and what you learned. Write down what went well (like the location, a song you played, or your audience's favorite trick). Write down what you could improve.
- One show won't give you an indication of your busking experience, good or bad. You might have just chosen a poor venue or missed your ideal timeframe.
- Play to your audience, if you're a musician. If you see young people in the audience, play a little Taylor Swift or Ed Sheeran. Play older songs for older audiences. Your audience will tip more if you play their favorite songs.
- Always ask shops you're performing nearby for their permission.
- Be yourself. You may want to compare yourself to other buskers, but copying another act will not lead to success. Putting your heart and soul into your work will connect yourself to your audience and lead to great satisfaction.
- Busking isn't usually a stable source of income. If you want to busk, you'll want more reasons than just money.
- Never leave your props, instruments, or tips unattended. Watch your audience carefully if you pass your tip jar, in case anyone steals from it.
- Know and respect the law. Buskers who do not can be prosecuted for panhandling.
- Don't busk in suburban areas. Not only is this usually illegal, but homeowners won't appreciate you intruding on their neighborhood.
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| How to Accept Blame when You Deserve It Posted: 27 Sep 2017 09:00 AM PDT When you know you are at fault for a problem, the mature and responsible thing to do is stand up and own up to the mistake, accept the consequences, and be part of the solution. Recognize where you went wrong and be prepared to fully own what you did. Talk to the person and tell them what went wrong and apologize. Then, move on from the situation, knowing you will do better next time. EditRealizing Your Mistake - Recognize you're wrong. To accept blame, you must acknowledge your wrongdoing. Reflect on your words or actions and know what you did poorly or wrongly. Gain some clarity about the event and why you may have done what you did.[1]
- Admitting you were wrong doesn't mean that you're weak or inept.
- For example, if you said you would pick up the dry cleaning but didn't, don't make an excuse. Just own that you said you would do something and you didn't pull through.
- Don't try to shift the blame. Keep the focus on you. You might share the blame and the other person may have said or done wrong things as well, but focus only on your part. Just because you accept your own blame doesn't mean you're free to blame other people for their parts.
- If you own up to your part, the other person may not own up to theirs. Even if they don't, know that you did the right thing by admitting your wrongs.
- For example, if a project didn't get finished and you were part of the problem, own up to your part. Don't start blaming other people, even if they were part of the problem.
- Say something sooner than later. Waiting to see how things shake out is a bad idea. As soon as a situation starts being unpleasant, own up to your responsibility in creating it. The sooner the problem is identified, the sooner a resolution is possible, and that minimizes consequences.[2]
- For example, if you let someone down, talk to them as soon as you can and let them know how you feel. Say, "I was going to go to your event, but I didn't make it and it's my fault."
EditSpeaking to the Person - Admit that you were wrong. Admitting you were wrong shows that you're willing to accept that you are imperfect and make mistakes. It can be difficult to admit your wrongs, but doing so shows others that you're willing to take responsibility for what you do.[3]
- For example, say, "I was wrong to yell at you yesterday. Even if I'm upset, I don't want to yell."
- Apologize. If the situation warrants one, make a sincere apology. Accept your wrong and make it clear that you are sorry for whatever hurt or problem it caused. Be gracious in your apology and willing to admit your fault.[4]
- For example, say, "I'm sorry I messed up the project. It's my fault, and I take responsibility for things going wrong."
- Validate the person's feelings. If the other person is upset, be understanding. Validate how they feel and what they might be experiencing. Start by reflecting their words or feelings to show that you understand, and let them know that you understand their feelings.[5]
- For example, say, "I can tell you're disappointed. I would be, too."
EditMoving Past the Event - Propose a solution. Part of accepting blame and taking responsibility can include making up for your mistake. Come up with some solutions to right your wrong. This might mean putting in some extra work or promising to do better for next time. Whatever it is, show that you're willing to change to make things better. Making amends can help to restore justice and put people back on equal grounds.[6]
- For example, if you're to blame for something at work, offer to stay later and fix your mistake.
- If you mess something up with your family or friends, say that it will be different next time and mean it.
- Accept consequences. Accepting responsibility for your behavior may be scary, especially if you know there will be consequences. Take your consequences as courageously as possible, and when it's done, it's really over. You'll have learned your lesson and maintained personal integrity in the process.
- For example, coming clean might mean you face consequences at work or school. Or, you may have to fess up to something your family or partner that you know will make them upset. You might know some backlash will happen, but do the right thing.
- Reflect on your behavior. Recognize your mistake and reflect on what may have contributed to it. Perhaps you had a stressful day and lashed out at someone. Perhaps you jumped to conclusions and were wrong. Whatever it is you did, think about it and try to make any necessary changes as a result.
- For example, if you forgot something because you were rushed, try to slow down or allow more time for activities.
- Get accountable. Have someone in your life who can help keep you accountable for your words and actions. This might mean you have a friend who calls you out or you meet with someone to talk about accountability. Having someone to talk to about taking responsibility can help you deal with it better and faster.[7]
- For example, meet with someone each week and talk about what you're doing well and what you're struggling with. Let each other know when the other needs to accept responsibility for wrongs.
- Move on from the situation. Nobody's perfect and everyone make mistakes. Don't linger on a mistake or continuously try to make it up to the person you hurt. Once you've admitted your mistake and made amends, do your best to move on from the event. Even if you made a big mistake, don't guilt yourself forever. Accept what happened, learn from it, then move on.[8]
- Once you've taken all the steps to make things right, don't live in guilt or shame. Let go of what happened.
- You don't have to make a big deal out of some things. Small mistakes are easily handled by saying, "Oh. That was my bad. I'm sorry."
- Don't assume that your boss, parent, spouse, or teacher will think the worst of you if you make a mistake. Owning up to mistakes early will earn you respect from them, it won't make them think less of you.
- If you are too shy to apologise in person, send them a text or a letter. If you are sending a letter, putting a small gift, even a sticker, may help them accept your apology.
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| How to Keep a Parakeet Safe Out of Its Cage Posted: 27 Sep 2017 01:00 AM PDT Getting time out of the cage to fly, socialize, and bond with you is an important part of a pet parakeet's daily routine. More than that, it's a time for the two of you to hang out and have fun. During fly time, it is important to make sure that your parakeet has a safe space free of escape routes and potential hazards. Training your parakeet can help with this, but it is important to also close all doors and windows, removing flying risks like fans and cords, and make sure your parakeet gets its exercise in a safe area where you can monitor them. EditPreparing Your Bird to Come out - Let your parakeet adjust to a new home. Moving is stressful for parakeets, so avoid taking the bird out of their cage as much as possible in the first week or so that you bring it home. Taking it out too soon could cause them to get nervous and fly into things that could hurt them.[1]
- Get their wings clipped while you train them. You may ultimately opt to keep your parakeet fully flighted, but before your bird is hand-trained, it can be helpful to keep their wings clipped. This will keep them from flying away and hurting themselves while you teach them good out-of-cage behavior.[2]
- Ask your seller if your parakeet's flight feathers have already been clipped. If not, visit an avian vet. Even if you want to learn to clip the feathers at home, a vet should show you how it's done and walk you through the process the first time.
- Hand train your parakeet. Hand training starts with you gently introducing your hand into the cage. When your parakeet is used to your hand, you can gently nudge them from their perch onto your finger. With practice and praise, you will eventually be able to train your parakeet to come to your finger using hand signals and vocal commands.[3]
- It helps to keep treats nearby when you are hand training so that your parakeet learns to associate you with a positive experience.
- Hand training takes time, especially when you introduce verbal cues such as "up" and "return." Be patient with your parakeet.
EditReadying Your Home - Close all windows and doors. Before you let your parakeet out to play, go through the house and make sure you have closed all windows, doors, and any other access points through which your bird could escape. Even birds with clipped wings can glide long enough to get away, so make sure all openings that lead outside are closed off before letting them out.[4]
- Do not rely on window or door screens to contain your bird. These are often easily torn and could injure your pet. Fully close all doors and windows.
- You may want to cover mirrors and windows, as well, as parakeets can mistakenly fly into them. Close curtains or blinds and use a sheet to cover mirrors.
- Turn off fans, hot lights, and appliances. Take a look around the area where you plan on letting your parakeet fly. Turn off any fans, lights that you know can run hot, appliances such as stove tops, ovens, and laundry machines, or anything else that could hurt your bird while it flies or once it lands.[5]
- Open pots on hot stoves, open food, and open flames are all dangerous to your parakeet. Secure these before you let your bird out.
- Secure your other pets. Even well-meaning playful attention from your dog or cat could cause accidental injury for your parakeet, so it is important to secure any other pets you have before letting your parakeet out. You may decide to crate larger pets, or limit their access to your parakeet by keeping the bird play space in room with a closed door.[6]
- Make sure small pets such as fish and hamsters are also secure from your parakeet, as a curious bird could hurt itself by trying to make friends with other small pets.
- Hide chewing hazards such as cords and plants. Look over the area before letting your parakeet out to make sure there are no materials such as electrical cords or toxic plants that could harm your parakeet if they were to chew on them. Move plants to another area, and either unplug and remove cords, or else permanently cover them with a hard case.[7]
- Common household plants that are toxic to parakeets include certain ferns, jasmine, many types of lilies, many types of grasses, oak, poinsettia, poppies, tulips, honeysuckle, cacti, clovers, and rhododendron.[8]
EditBringing out Your Bird - Set up a play area. Play stations with different sized perches, toys, slides, swings, and ladders are readily available from most pet stores, and help keep your bird active in a safe, area where you can watch them. Set up a play station in an area where your bird will not get droppings in their food or water, and where they have space to fly around to all the different parts and toys.[9]
- Depending upon the size and shape of your cage, you may be able to set up the play area on top so that bird droppings can safely fall down to the paper liner below.
- Remember to provide food and water for your bird while it is out of the cage, as well.
- Schedule regular fly time that you can monitor. Your parakeet should be let out for fly time for at least an hour or so every day. They will need your full attention during that time. Schedule time every day for you to watch your parakeet while it plays. Avoid distractions like cooking, household chores, or staying on your computer or phone.[10]
- Many owners find it helpful to avoid cleaning the cage during fly time. While it is a time saver to do them both at once, cage cleaning often involves going in and out of different areas and requires attention you may want to give your bird.
- Help your bird back into the cage. Some parakeets will return to their cage between flights, but others may need your help finding their way back. If possible, get your parakeet to your finger and help them find their cage. If your parakeet refuses to return, move slow and dim the lights. Parakeets don't like flying in dim lighting, so you can gently catch them and help them return.[11]
- Do not chase after or aggressively catch your parakeet. This could spook them or cause them injury. Your best option is to try to get them on your finger, or to rest enough that you can gently grab them with two hands.
- Do not dim the lights so low that you cannot see your parakeet. Making the room too dark too quickly could cause the bird to run into walls or obstructions, which may cause them to hurt themselves.
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| How to Increase CREB Protein Posted: 26 Sep 2017 05:00 PM PDT Increasing the amount of CREB protein (also known as the cAMP response element binding protein) in your body can greatly improve your memory and learning abilities. A lack of CREB protein is tied to memory loss, anxiety, and different forms of dementia. Maintaining healthy eating, exercise, and sleeping patterns is key to the production and activation of CREB protein. Supplements like cinnamon, blueberry extract, and butyrate can also boost your CREB protein levels. EditMaintaining a Healthy Lifestyle - Consult your doctor. Maintaining your health is important, particularly if you suspect that you might have a CREB protein deficiency. Cognitive or psychological issues (e.g. anxiety) may be due in part to a lag in CREB protein activation, and can be treated with medications or targeted therapies. Visit a doctor if you experience memory, learning, or concentration issues, or if you want more information about boosting your CREB protein levels.[1]
- CREB protein levels are typically measured by way of a Western blot test, which is performed in a laboratory using a cell or tissue sample. This test can be ordered by your physician, or requested at a private laboratory.[2]
- Contact private clinics or laboratories in your area for price quotes for a Western blot test.
- Eat healthy food at regular times. The body's production of CREB protein depends on the healthy functioning of the metabolic energy cycle. To keep this cycle running at peak capacity, eat a balanced and low-fat diet that is high in nutrients. It is equally important to eat at regular times of the day to keep your metabolic activity in check, which you can facilitate by keeping a food diary.[3]
- Keep your metabolism on track by eating meals and snacks at the same time every day.
- Opt for snacks and meals that contain fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and lean protein (e.g. a turkey sandwich on whole grain bread, with an apple and carrot sticks on the side).
- Stay away from high fat, processed foods (e.g. fast food fare like hamburgers and fries).
- Exercise regularly. Exercise creates a molecular response in the body that can increase the activation of CREB protein.[4] Aim for 150 minutes of moderate exercise every week, or 75 minutes of vigorous physical activity. Moderate exercise may include things like walking or swimming, while more vigorous exercise could include running, jumping rope, or taking a spin class.[5]
- For instance, go for 30 minute walks five days a week to get moderate exercise.
- For an example of a more vigorous exercise routine, do 25 minute sessions of jump rope three times a week.
- Balance your Circadian Rhythm. Your Circadian Rhythm is an internal process that regulates when you feel sleepy and alert during the day, and at what times you sleep. Maintaining a healthy rhythm is key to regulating your eating habits and giving your body enough energy for exercise. Keep your Circadian Rhythm in check by:[6]
- Keeping a consistent sleep schedule (i.e. going to bed and waking up at the same time every day)
- Steering clear of electronic devices close to your bedtime, which simulate daylight and adversely affect your body's sleep instincts
- Exposing yourself to bright light in the morning to wake up (e.g. opening the blinds, going outside for walk)
- Avoiding all-nighters
EditTaking Nutritional Supplements - Take butyrate supplements. Butyrate is a short-chain fatty acid that has a wealth of health benefits, including the increased production of CREB protein in the body. Ask your doctor if butyrate supplements (available over the counter at pharmacies and health stores) are right for you. Alternatively, try to infuse butyrate into your diet naturally by increasing your consumption of high fiber vegetables and dairy fats (e.g. butter, heavy cream).[7]
- Eat cinnamon. Consuming cinnamon may increase the body's production of CREB protein, making it a subject of research surrounding diseases like Alzheimer's. Cinnamon can be metabolized into a non-toxic form of sodium-benzoate, a chemical approved by the FDA to treat brain damage. Purchase cinnamon supplements from a pharmacy or health store, or introduce cinnamon into your everyday diet by:
- Ingest blueberry extract. Blueberry extract has been shown to improve cognitive function and increase CREB protein activation on the body. The compound can be consumed in food form, or more easily in supplement form (i.e. pure blueberry extract powder or isolated anthocyanins derived from the extract). For the best results, aim to consume between 5.5 and 11g of blueberry extract per day, 500 to 1,000mg of isolated anthocyanins, or 60-120g of fresh berries.[8]
- Don't just take pure cinnamon powder. It can cause you to choke.
- Alcohol can temporarily boost CREB protein levels in the body, but the effects are short-term and may be harmful in the long run.
- Do not take medical supplements without consulting a doctor first.
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| How to Improve Mental Math Skills Posted: 26 Sep 2017 09:00 AM PDT Eventually, you'll find yourself in a situation where you'll have to solve a math problem without a calculator. Even if you're good at math, mental math can be incredibly difficult to do. To solve problems in your head, you'll need an entirely new set of strategies and methods that differ from what you were taught in school. Luckily, if you study the basics and use mental math strategies, you can improve your skills and solve complex calculations in your head. EditUsing Mental Math Tricks - Visualize the equation in your head. The first step in solving a math problem in your head is to visualize the problem mentally. Imagine the numbers and the equation in your head. As you solve portions of the problem, visualize the new numbers that you're working with. Repeating numbers mentally or verbally, in a whisper, will also help you to remember more significant numbers in the equation.[1]
- Add and subtract from left to right. You were probably taught to add and subtract from right to left, but doing it this way is actually harder mentally. Instead, calculate the left numbers first, then subtract or add the right numbers together.The left number will form the left digit in your solution while the right number will be the second digit.[2]
- For instance, to add 52+43, you can add 5+4=9 and 2+3=5, for a total sum of 95.
- If subtracting 93-22, subtract 9-2=7 and then 3-2=1 for a total of 71.
- If you have to carry over numbers, add them to the first digit solution. For instance, when adding 99+87, you could add 9+8 first to get 17, then 9+7 to get 16. Because you know you have to carry the 1 over, your first number would become 18, for a full solution of 186.
- Count the common zeros when adding or subtracting. When adding, you can find common zeros in the equation and remove them to solve an equation easier. For instance, if you had 120-70, you could remove the zeros to get 12-7=5, then add the common zero back on to get the solution or 50.[3]
- Another example is if you had 300+200, you could remove the common zeros to get 3+2=5, then add them back on to get the answer or 500.
- Simplify and add all the zeros when multiplying. When multiplying, you can simplify the number if zeros follow it. For instance, if you had 3000x50 you could simplify it to 3x5=15, then add together all the zeros and put it on the end of the product to get 150,000.[4]
- Another example is if you had 70x60, you could do 7x6=42 then add the zeros to get 4,200.
- Round numbers up and then subtract the difference when adding. You can round numbers up, then subtract the added value to make it easier to solve complex addition problems when the value of the number is greater than 100. For instance, if you had to solve 596+380, you could add 4 to 596, so your equation looks like 600+380=980, which is easier to visualize. Then, go back and subtract 4 from your sum, 980, to get 976 or the sum of 596+380.[5]
- Another example would be if you had 558+305. Round 558 to 560 so that your equation is 560+305 = 865. Then, subtract 2 to your sum of 865 to get 863.
- Simplify complex numbers when multiplying. You don't always have to do the exact math that you're presented with. Complex or uneven numbers can make calculations more difficult. For example, if you have to multiply 12x36, you can simplify the numbers to make it easier to do in your head. 12 can become 10 so that you have 10x36 which equals 360. Then you can take the remainder that you didn't calculate or 2 and multiply that by 36, which equals 72. Finally, add 360+72 to equal 432. This may be easier than doing long form multiplication in your head.[6]
- Simplify percentages into even numbers. Break down percentages into smaller parts if at all possible. For instance, if you need to calculate a 15% of 40, you can figure out 10% of 40, which is 4. Then, because the remaining 5% is half of 10%, you can assume that 5% of 40 is 2. Add 4+2 = 6 or 15% of 40.[7]
- Estimate when an exact calculation isn't necessary. Estimating the solution is often much easier than trying to work out an exact solution. Try rounding complex numbers to their whole numbers, then solving the equation. If you're in a situation when finding the exact solution isn't necessary or you have limited time to solve the equation, use estimation to get close to the actual number.[8]
- For instance, if you had to add 7.07+8.95+10.09, you could round to the closest numbers and estimate that the solution was close to 26.
- Associate equations with money to solve them. Since there are 100 cents in a dollar, you can easily use this knowledge to solve math equations. For instance, you may not know what 100-25 is off the top of your head, but you probably know how much money you'd have if you removed a quarter from four quarters. Associate the numbers in the equation with money if applicable.
EditStudying and Practicing to Improve - Memorize your multiplication tables. When you memorize your multiplication tables, you'll have the answer to simple multiplication problems instantly. This will improve the speed at which you can solve smaller components of a more complex math problem. If you're rusty on your multiplication tables, study them until you know all single digit multiplication problems.[9]
- Memorize the first 20 squares. A squares chart will show what 1-20 is multiplied by itself. Memorizing the chart will allow you to solve simple square equations in your head. You can also use squares to help you get an estimate for more complex multiplication problems.[10]
- For example, if you have to solve 18x19 you can use 19², then subtract 19 to get the solution.
- Use flashcards. If you're struggling with your multiplication or division tables, flashcards are a great way to memorize common math problems. Determine what you're struggling with and then write down the equation on a card. On the back of the card, write the solution. Practice going through the flashcards with a partner so that you can use instant recall for more common math equations.[11]
- Practice mental math every day. Practicing two or three complex mental math equations per day will keep your mind sharp and will vastly improve your mental math skills. Make a concerted effort to do more mental math in different situations to build the skill. After a month, you should feel more comfortable doing mental math.[12]
- Take mental math quizzes online. There are apps and websites that are dedicated to sharpening your mental math skills. Look online for highly accredited apps or websites and use their online tools to help you drill common mental math equations.
EditPracticing Mental Math when Purchasing Things - Practice basic addition and subtraction to estimate your receipt. Keep track of the cost of things that you purchase at the store before you get to the cashier. Add the cost of items together and keep a running tally of your overall costs. When you get the receipt for your goods, compare your mental math with the actual cost of what you purchased.[13]
- For instance, if your cereal costs $3.99 and soap costs $9.49, your total cost would be $13.48.
- Use multiplication to calculate the cost of gas. Wait until your tank is almost empty, then multiply the cost of gas by your tank size. For instance, if you had a 12-gallon tank, and gas was $3.50 you could multiply 12x$3.50 = $42. You can also cover up the cost of the gas on the pump while looking at the gallons and use mental math to calculate your total cost.[14]
- You can use multiplication to figure out costs if you're buying more than one of the same item.
- For instance, if you bought 4 candy bars for 2 dollars each, you'd have 4x$2.00 = $8.00.
- Use sales and discounts to practice percents. Round the cost of the product to the nearest dollar, and calculate the percentage of the sale. For instance, if there was a 7% discount on a $9.65 item, you could round up to $10. 7% of 10 is 0.7 or 70 cents, which is approximately how much you'd save.[15]
- Ten percent off of $9.65 is actually 0.67 cents.
- If you are buying a case of water that costs $5 and it's 25% off, your savings would be $1.25.
- Use mental division to split a bill. If you need to split a bill, you can divide the bill by the number of people who have to pay to determine how much each person owes. For instance, if you had a heating bill that cost $125.36 and you have 4 roommates, you'd divide $125.36 by 4 to get $31.34.[16]
- If you wanted to break down the equation to make it easier, work on the dollar amounts first, then the cents.
- Breakdown $125 to $100 to make it easier to divide by 4 or $100/4=25. Then divide $25/4 to get the remaining numbers that you're missing. Add the remainder or $6 to $25 to get the whole number of $31.
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| How to Guess on a Test Posted: 26 Sep 2017 01:00 AM PDT If you're stumped on a hard test question, guessing strategically can improve your chances of choosing the right answer. Look for context clues throughout the test that can help you with a tricky problem. Choose answers that seem familiar, even if it's just a subtle feeling of deja vu. Look for patterns in true or false questions, and go with false if a question includes absolutes, such as "all" or "none." When guessing on multiple choice questions, use processes of elimination, look for grammatical clues and, when in doubt, go with the most detailed choice. EditGuessing on True or False Tests - Answer the questions you know first. You'll obviously want to answer as many questions as possible without running out of time. In addition, knowing the right answers to the questions above and below a tricky true or false problem can help you find a pattern. Guessing based on a true or false pattern is better than just guessing randomly.[1]
- Choose the opposite answer if the surrounding answers are the same. Suppose you know the answers above and below a tricky question are both true. Chances are, the correct response to the tricky question is false. There is a low probability that the same correct response will appear three times in a row.[2]
- Guess false if there's an absolute modifier. Absolute modifiers are words that don't allow for exceptions, such as all, everyone, never, and always. There aren't many things that always happen without any exceptions, so questions that have absolutes are usually false.[3]
- When a question with an absolute modifier is true, it's often a well-known, common sense fact that doesn't make for a good test question.
- Guess true if you see words like some, most, or a few. In-between words, as opposed to absolutes, are more likely to be true. If a statement allows for exceptions, it's more probable that it's true at least some of the time.[4]
- Other in-between words include usually, often, seldom, and frequently.
- Choose true if you're totally stumped. Go with true if none of the other true/false tips apply, and you have no clue what the answer is. Recalling a fact is easier than inventing a falsehood, so test makers tend to include more true answers than false.[5]
- For instance, if you're stumped on a question with no absolute or in-between modifiers, and if the answer above is true and the one below is false, your best bet is to go with true.
EditGuessing on Multiple Choice Tests - Make a guess before looking at potential answers. When you first read a question, try not to look at the choices or cover them with your hand. Try to make a guess off of the top of your head. Then, read the choices and see if any of them are close to your guess.[6]
- Eliminate outliers and the highest and lowest numbers. Rule out choices that are funny, obviously wrong, or seem totally out of left field. If the possible answers are numbers, rule out the highest and lowest choices, then guess between the options left in the middle range.[7]
- Look for grammatical clues. It might seem like a no brainer, but a test maker might occasionally overlook a question that only makes grammatical sense with one answer. Read the question and possible answers carefully, and eliminate the choices that don't match the question's grammar.[8]
- For instance, if a question asks, "A salamander is an," and "amphibian" is the only choice that starts with a vowel, you'll know it's the right answer.
- Choose the longest possible answer. If one choice is longer and more detailed the others, it's probably the correct choice. Sometimes, the right choice has to include more details so it's always correct without any doubt.[9]
- For example, suppose a driver's test asks: Which lane you should be in when turning right?
A. The left lane
B. The center lane
C. The lane closest to the direction of your turn
D. Any lane - Guess "all of the above" if it only appears once on the test. If only one question has an "all" or "none of the above" choice, that's probably the right answer.[10] However, use your best judgement if you're confident that at least one choice doesn't fit.
- If you're completely stumped and can't rule out any choices, going with all or none could offer a good probability of choosing correctly. When all or none of the above are choices in every question, they're the correct response as often as 65% percent of the time.[11]
EditMaking Educated Guesses - Ask to see past exams. Ask if your teacher keeps past exams on file and if they'd be willing to share them with you. You can get a feel for the types of questions they ask and look for patterns in correct answers.[12]
- Keep in mind that it's always better to study the material instead of trying to outsmart your teacher. If you have a choice between studying your notes or figuring out how often "True" is the right answer, go with studying.
- Find out if blank answers are marked incorrect. Ask your teacher or find out whether your standardized test takes points off for blank answers. Some test makers discourage guessing by deducting points only for incorrect responses. If you don't get points off for a blank response, it's best not to guess.[13]
- The SAT used to have a guess penalty. It ignored blank responses and deducted points only for wrong answers. However, College Board got rid of the guess penalty in 2016.[14] The PSAT, ACT, and AP tests don't use a guess penalty either. For each of these tests, you get a point for a correct answer and zero points for a blank or incorrect answer.[15]
- Standardized tests are subject to change, so make sure you know if an updated test includes a guess penalty.
- Answer questions you know before making guesses. Time management is often a key test taking factor. Instead of spending too much time trying to make a good guess on a tricky question, breeze through all the questions you can answer confidently. You wouldn't want to run out of time and leave an easy question blank.[16]
- Look for context clues in the rest of the test. You might find a clue to a tricky question elsewhere in a test. Other questions might jog your memory or give you a context clue that shines a spotlight on the right answer to a hard question.[17]
- For example, suppose a multiple choice question asks if a weta is a plant, insect, fish, or mammal. A later question asks, "How many species of weta have entomologists identified?" If you know entomologists study insects, you'll know the answer to the earlier question.
- Go with an answer that seems familiar. Sometimes the right answer will trigger a feeling of deja vu. If you're torn between a familiar answer and one with terms you've never seen before, choose the one that rings a bell.[18]
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