| How to Buy a Used Motorcycle Posted: 28 Oct 2019 05:00 PM PDT If you're toying with the idea of getting a motorcycle but don't want to spend an arm and a leg, buying one used is the way to go. However, there are a few considerations you'll want to make in order to ensure that the bike you've got your eye on is worth the asking price, such as its general condition, mileage, and performance during a cold test ride. Knowing what to look for will help you find a motorcycle in good working condition that will hold up to countless miles of fun and adventure out on the open road. [Edit]Hunting for Used Motorcycles - Look for bikes that are appropriate for the type of riding you plan on doing. Before you begin comparing prices or drooling over various models, think about how you'll actually be using your motorcycle. Most cycle enthusiasts tend to use their bikes for one of several purposes: recreational riding/commuting, touring, motorsports, or some combination thereof. Knowing which riding style best applies to you will help you find a bike that's suited for your specific needs and preferences.[1]
- Ask yourself what kind of you imagine when you picture yourself owning a motorcycle. Are you just interested in cruising around your neighborhood? Do you plan on loading it up for a road trip instead of your usual vehicle?
- A 1000cc superbike can offer high-speed thrills on the track, for example, but it probably isn't the most practical way to get to work.
- Buy from a reputable dealership if at all possible. Since auto dealerships only turn a profit if they can inspire enough confidence in their customers to make a sell, they have a vested interest in stocking quality, well-maintained items. They also generally offer some type of warranty, which will keep you from getting stuck with the cost of repairs in the event that something goes wrong in your first few months of ownership.[2]
- Many dealerships can also perform ownership history checks on any of their units. That way, you'll know that the bike you've got your eye on hasn't been stolen or written off as non-resellable by an insurance company.
- At a dealership, you'll be paying for peace of mind as much as a product. The asking prices may not always be as attractive as those in private listings, but at least you'll know that your purchase comes guaranteed.
- Browse online automobile marketplaces for specific makes and models. Used motorcycles are constantly being listed on e-commerce sites like eBay. You can also seek out private sales online through resources like Cycle Trader or the motorcycle section on Autotrader, which allow you to fine-tune your search based on parameters like make, model, year, and mileage.[3]
- If you want to avoid the cost and potentially tricky logistics of long-distance shipping, use local trading sites like Craigslist or Facebook Market to look through listings for used bikes in your area.
- Research the average price range of the bike you're interested in. Run a search for a particular make, model, and year and pull up results from multiple websites. Pricing your options head-to-head will help paint a picture of what the bike is worth given its age and history of use. From there, you can start thinking about whether it fits in your budget and how much you may be able to talk down a seller who's asking for an amount that's on the high side.[4]
- Keep in mind that listing prices may vary considerably based on mileage, condition, and availability, as well as other wild-card factors like custom parts.
- Online price guides like Cycle Trader and NADAguides (a J.D. Power associate) can also be useful for sizing up a buy, provided you can find the model you're looking for.[5]
[Edit]Evaluating a Bike's Condition - Note the number of miles on the odometer. There are no definitively "good" or "bad" readings in terms of mileage, as different bikes are built with different specs for different purposes. What's more important is to compare the bike's outward appearance to its recorded mileage. If they don't seem to line up, you may be better off exploring other options.[6]
- Try not to overanalyze. If it comes down to a toss-up between two bikes of the exact same model and one has $15,000-20,000 fewer miles on it, it's clearly the better deal.[7]
- Unless it's obviously in bad shape, don't be put off by a motorcycle with 30,000-50,000 miles on the engine. When properly cared for, many bikes have maximum mileages as high as some cars, so there's a good chance that it still has plenty of road time left in it.
- Take stock of the bike's general appearance. Look the bike over top to bottom and front to back, paying particular attention to the main components like the frame, headstock, fenders, side covers, and windshield. A little bit of wear and tear isn't uncommon on older bikes, but for the most part, all of the chrome and paint should be clean, shiny, and free of rust, and there should be no dents, dings, scratches, or other visible signs of damage.[8]
- Bring a flashlight along with you in case you're forced to perform your inspection in low light. A multimeter can also come in handy for testing the voltage output of older bikes with batteries that haven't been changed in a while.[9]
- Be wary of bikes that look like they haven't been washed in a while. A little dust and dirt may not seem like a big deal, but it could point to neglect elsewhere.
- Climb on the motorcycle to try out the suspension. Straddle the seat and bounce up and down gently. The forks, or the pronged pieces connecting the front wheel to the frame, should absorb the motion and return to their original position quickly and quietly. By contrast, the rear shocks should hold firm, preventing the back of the bike from dipping too much.[10]
- Grinding, squeaking, and poor impact absorption, along with obvious visible damage like scrapes, cracks, dings, and rust, are all evidence of a suspension system that's taken a lot of abuse.
- Keep your eyes peeled for oil coming from the shocks or struts—it might be coming from a broken seal.[11]
- Examine the tires for excessive or uneven wear. It's totally normal for the center third of each tire to be a little smoother than the surrounding areas. Flat spots or significant off-center wear, however, could be due to bad riding habits, such as hard braking or skidding. Damage like this not only weakens the tire but places unnecessary strain on other parts of the bike that are not as cheap or easy to replace.[12]
- Similarly, blunt or diagonal scuffs could indicate alignment issues.
- Inspect the seats and other hard-wearing areas to look for deterioration. Materials like leather and rubber can deteriorate fairly quickly, especially if the previous owner did a lot of riding. A torn seat or loose footpeg doesn't necessarily mean that the bike is a junker. However, if all of the main points of contact are beat up and there's also noticeable wear or damage to the frame and surrounding areas, it means that it's likely seen better days.[13]
- If the bike you're appraising has saddlebags, be sure to look through them inside and out. Hard bags should be completely free of cracks or holes, while both the fabric and stitching of soft bags should be intact, with no rips, thin spots, or abrasions.
- Don't let some worn-out upholstery stop you from going ahead with a purchase if you're satisfied with the motorcycle's overall condition. These parts are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace.
- Check the fuel and oil tanks for rust or sediment. Unscrew the fuel cap on the body of the bike and use your flashlight to take a peek inside. There should be nothing floating in the fuel itself and no rust or corrosion on the walls of the tank. Next, note the color of the oil, which is usually visible through a sight glass on one side of the engine. If it's clean and syrupy, you're good. If it's dark, it may have been some time since it was last changed.[14]
- If you can see shiny metallic flakes suspended in the oil, the bike is a dud. This means that the spent oil has been left to sit for so long that it's eating away at the oil chamber from within.
- Don't be tempted to skip this part of the inspection thinking that you'll just change out the oil and fuel later. These fluids are the lifeblood of a motorcycle, and play a major role in the machine's overall performance and condition.
- Remove the seat to confirm that the internal wiring is in good shape. You don't have to be an experienced technician to be able to tell if something is amiss in the electrical compartment. Just take a quick peek to see whether everything looks like it's securely connected and in its proper place. Ideally, each of the wires should still have their original factory connectors, or a suitable aftermarket replacement, if they've been worked on at some point.[15]
- There's a lot more to a motorcycle's electrical system than just the battery. It also includes the alternator, rectifier/regulator headlight, fog lights, and any additional modules you may have hooked up, such as a built-in GPS unit or garage door opener.
- Test the voltage of the battery and look for a reading between 10.5 and 12. While you've got the seat off, hook up your multimeter to the battery's positive and negative terminals to see how much juice it has. It should put out around 12 volts while the bike is off, and no less than 10.5 while it's running. If you get anything lower for either phase of the test, consider it a red flag.[16]
- If you don't have a multimeter, kickstart the bike (or ask the owner to start it) and listen to the way the engine cranks. If it's slow to turn over, or if the headlight dims momentarily, it means that the battery isn't providing enough power to feed the starter or alternator.
- A dead battery is also a dead giveaway that a motorcycle hasn't been ridden in a while, and might also hint that it's got other problems related to disuse.
- Take the bike out for a test ride. First, start the engine and listen for any unusual noises, such as creaking, rattling, or grinding. If there are no apparent problems, ease your way onto a well-maintained stretch of road that offers safe conditions. Pay close attention to the way the bike handles acceleration, turns, braking, and shifting. Everything should feel smooth, stable, and responsive.[17]
- If the seller is reluctant to let you test the bike on your own, see if they'd be willing to let you hop on as a passenger, or at least watch and listen from a close distance to get a sense of how it rides.
- Don't forget to bring your driver's license and insurance card along with you on your test ride. It's also a good idea to come prepared with a helmet and other safety gear in case your seller doesn't have these things available.[18]
- Talk to a local dealership about scheduling a detailed inspection. Even if you decide to buy your bike from a private party, it's wise to have it looked over by a third party before you make any kind of agreements. Most dealerships and small cycle shops are happy to serve as a middleman in private sales for a small service fee. Spending a few extra dollars now could save you a considerable amount of time, money, and labor in the future.[19]
- If the owner seems hesitant to get another party involved, it could be because the bike has issues that they don't want you to see.
- Requesting an independent inspection is especially important if you're buying online and aren't able to examine the bike in person.[20]
[Edit]Completing Your Purchase - Scan the bike's VIN number for errors or inconsistencies. A vehicle identification number, or VIN number, is a unique serial number used to legally identify a vehicle. On most motorcycles, you'll find the VIN number stamped onto the steering neck section of the frame, just behind the headlight. Check this number against the number on the official title to make sure that they're a match.[21]
- Never do business with a seller that doesn't have the vehicle's title on hand. While it's not a guarantee that a bike is stolen, it's definitely not worth the risk.
- In rare instances, VIN numbers can be modified or forged for criminal reasons. If something about the VIN number looks fishy, make it a point to have it inspected by a qualified professional at a nearby dealership.
- Ask to see the motorcycle's service records or receipts. Responsible owners almost always hold onto documents showing their bike's service history. If the owner is the do-it-yourself type, see if they've kept a logbook or similar informal record indicating how much work they've put into the bike over the years.[22]
- A long service history isn't necessarily a bad thing—in some cases, it may actually suggest that the owner has taken very good care of the bike. What's more important is to take a close look at what's listed there (and what's not) and make sure that they've been maintaining the big stuff.
- If you decide to buy through a dealership, they should be able to pull up a full service record for any of their vehicles since the time it arrived on the lot.
- Keep your budget in mind while negotiating the final price. Study retail pricing guides or read through classified ads to get an idea of the bike's market value. Then, put those numbers side-by-side with your approximate budget to come up with an exact amount that you'd be willing to spend. Most used motorcycles don't end up selling for their initial asking price, so don't be afraid to haggle a bit to bring the number down to something more agreeable for your wallet.[23]
- When it comes time to make an offer, be realistic. Lowballing the seller may just insult them and make them less willing to compromise.
- You can work out the payment details with the seller after you've agreed on a price. Make sure you're both clear about the terms of the transaction, as they'll be recorded in the vehicle's bill of sale.[24]
- Fill out a bill of sale to have the vehicle's title legally transferred to you. The seller should provide you with a formal bill of sale form, which can be printed online or obtained from your area DMV. This form will document the make, model, and VIN number of the bike, as well as a precise odometer reading and the details of the financial transaction between you and the previous owner. The previous owner will need to sign the title over to you in order to finalize the sale. Don't forget to make an appointment at your local DMV office to apply for a new set of tags once the bike is officially yours.[25]
- In some states and territories, it may be necessary to have your bill of sale signed by a licensed notary.
- Bring all of the relevant legal paperwork with you to the DMV, including a copy of the bill of sale, and be prepared to pay a small transfer fee. Fees vary by location, but you can expect to pay around $20-30, on average.[26]
- Ask to see and test ride the bike while it's still cold. It's easy to hide issues with the engine once it's had a little time to warm up.
- Make sure you have active, up-to-date motorcycle insurance before you take your new bike out for a joyride.[27]
- Take good care of your motorcycle—keep it clean, stay on top of regular maintenance, and try to catch mechanical issues before they become a problem.[28] Not only will some TLC keep your bike roadworthy, it will also help you fetch a better price for it if you decide to let it go in the future.
[Edit]Warnings - Resist the temptation to buy more bike than you can handle—always ride within the limits of your skills and experience.
- If you have any reservations about the safety of the vehicle you're looking at, walk away. It's not worth risking your life just to score a sweet deal.
- If you don't already have your own safety gear, now is the time to invest in a set. It won't matter how safe your motorcycle is if you yourself aren't properly protected.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Hockey Skate Posted: 28 Oct 2019 09:00 AM PDT While hockey skating is different than figure skating or speed skating, many of the basic techniques are similar. Before you try to skate on ice with a pair of hockey skates, you'll first want to spend some time practicing how to balance on the edges of your skates' blades. Once you're comfortable balancing in your skates, go ahead and try stepping onto the ice. The most important thing to remember when you're skating on ice is to keep your center of gravity low by bending your knees. [Edit]Learning How to Balance - Try standing in your skates on solid ground before you move to the ice. After you slip on your skates and lace them up, stand up in them to get a feel for how to maintain your balance. When first starting out, use a chair or other stable object to pull yourself up and lean on. As you become more confident, gradually shift your weight to your blades and try to maintain your balance without holding onto the chair.[1]
- Try not to be embarrassed about using a chair or other object to help yourself stand up in your skates. Using a chair will help you learn how to balance in your skates more quickly and help keep you from falling over.
- Practice standing on a soft surface, rather than a hard surface, to avoid damaging your skate's blades.
- Practice leaning on the 2 edges of your skates. If you look at the end of your skate's blade, you'll see that its bottom is curved inward in the middle and that the blade touches the ground on its 2 outside edges. Once you've become comfortable standing in your skates, try to lean in them so that you're standing on just 1 of the 2 edges on each blade.[2]
- Practice leaning on both the inside edges and the outside edges and switching back and forth between the 2 edges.
- Keep a chair, or other stable object, nearby so that you can catch yourself if you lose your balance.
- Distinguishing between these edges is important because you'll use them for different skating motions.
- Bend your knees and stay low when you step on the ice. Staying low to the ground will help you keep your balance on the ice. If you stand ramrod straight, your center of gravity will be higher, which will make it more likely that you'll fall over.[3]
- Keep your chest and head up and centered to keep your balance.
- Keep your skates shoulder-width apart for a stable base. Maintaining a wide stance will also help you keep your balance. If you skate with your feet closer together, you're more likely to topple over. A stance wider than shoulder-width, meanwhile, increases the risk that your skates will slide out from under you.[4]
- To help remind yourself to keep your feet in the proper position, imagine that 2 long rods are tied to your skates and shoulders.
- Lean on your skates' inside edges to keep your skates from sliding. If you feel your skates sliding to the outside, you can stop this by leaning on the inside edges of your skates. Transfer your weight to your skates' inside edges just like you practiced before stepping on the ice.[5]
[Edit]Moving on the Ice - Position your right skate at a 45-degree angle before pushing off. With your knees bent and your skate leaning on its inside edge, point your toe outward. Keeping your skate at a 45-degree angle is necessary to give your push enough power to give you the speed you need.[6]
- Aim your non-pushing left skate in the direction you want to move. Before pushing off, make sure your left-foot skate is in the right position. Keep your knee bent and your skate pointed where you want to go.[7]
- If you don't aim your skate in the direction you're pushing, you may trip.
- Push back on your angled skate to glide forward. Once you've gotten your 2 skates in their proper positions, push back. The harder you push back, the faster you will glide forward.[8]
- If you're just starting out, push back with gentle force so you can get a feel for the motion.
- Bring your right leg back under your body as you glide. After you push off and are gliding across the ice, bend the knee of your outstretched right leg to get it back into the starting position. The faster you bring it back under your body, the sooner you'll be able to start another push.[9]
- As you glide across the ice, keep your left leg bent so you can keep your balance.
- Push off with your left skate to continue gliding across the ice. Once your right leg is back under your body, angle your left skate 45 degrees in the same way you did before with your right skate. Then, push back just as you did before to continue gliding.[10]
- Repeat the above steps to continue skating across the ice. Once you become comfortable with the motions of skating, you can gradually increase your speed by pushing back harder and pulling the outstretched leg back under your body more quickly. Remember to keep your knees bent and stay low as you push off and glide.[11]
- Turn by leaning on the edges of your skates. When turning, keep your skates approximately shoulder-width apart to give yourself a stable base. Lead with your right foot to turn right and your left foot to turn left. Position your stick and hands in front of you to maintain balance.[12]
[Edit]Skating Backward - Start in a basic athletic stance. Keep your skates shoulder-width apart and bend your knees over the caps of your skates. Make sure your head and chest are up and square to the ice. Lean slightly forward in your stance so that your body weight is centered over the balls of your feet.[13]
- If your weight is centered around your heels, you're more likely to fall when you try to skate backwards.
- Push off the barriers when first learning how to skate backwards. Once you're in an athletic stance, put both of your hands on the barriers. Then, push off to get a sense of what it feels like to glide backwards across the ice.[14]
- Remember to keep your weight centered over the balls of your feet as you push off the barriers so that you don't topple over.
- Continue to push off the barriers until you feel confident gliding backward.
- Propel yourself backward with the inside edges of your blades. Once you feel comfortable gliding backward on the ice, you can try to push yourself back without the aid of the barriers. To do this, push the inside edges outward and then bring them back inside, as if you're tracing the shape of a lemon with your skates.[15]
- Start slowly and then gradually speed up once you feel more comfortable and confident doing this motion.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Decorate a Pumpkin Without Carving It Posted: 28 Oct 2019 01:00 AM PDT Carving pumpkins is one of the most popular Halloween activities. Not everyone wants to carve pumpkins, however. Fortunately, there are countless creative ways in which to decorate a pumpkin, from painting to gluing rhinestones. [Edit]Painting on Pumpkins - Spray paint a pumpkin if you want to change its color. Wipe the pumpkin with a damp cloth, then let it dry. Take the pumpkin outside and hold it by its stem. Apply a light even coat of spray paint, let the paint dry 15 to 20 minutes, then apply a second coat. Wait 24 hours before displaying the pumpkin.[1]
- Read the label on the spray paint to find out how far from the surface you should hold the can. In most cases it is .
- Turn a triangular pumpkin into a candy corn by painting the bottom orange, the middle yellow, and the top white.[2]
- Create a color-blocked pumpkin by masking off half of it with painter's tape. Paint the pumpkin as desired, let it dry, then peel the tape off.[3]
- Use adhesive stencils to create a simple design. Wipe the pumpkin down with a damp cloth first, then let it dry. Apply an adhesive stencil to the pumpkin, then paint the stencil with spray paint. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat. Let the paint dry completely, then remove the stencil.[4]
- If you don't want to use spray paint, use acrylic craft paint instead.
- You can use regular stencils or reverse stencils. You can even make your own using contact paper or adhesive shelf liner.
- For a more intricate design, pin a paper doily to the pumpkin, then spray paint it. Remove the pins and doily before the paint dries.
- Scrape designs into spray painted pumpkins if you want a unique look. Coat a real pumpkin (not a fake craft pumpkin) with black spray paint. Let the paint dry, then scrape designs into it using a spoon or fork handle. You can create any sort of design you want. For example:[5]
- Jack-o-Lantern faces
- Geometric patterns
- Flourishes and scrolls
- Spooky messages
- Use glow-in-the-dark over a spray painted pumpkin for a colorful effect. Paint your pumpkin with white, black, purple, or dark blue spray paint first. Let the paint dry, then paint designs onto it using glow-in-the-dark paint.[6]
- If you will be using a black light on your porch, consider using UV or black light paint instead. You can find it in craft stores around Halloween.
- You can use acrylic craft paint or dimensional/puffy paint. Be aware that the latter takes much longer to dry.
- Paint designs directly onto your pumpkin. You can do this on a bare pumpkin, or you can spray paint the pumpkin a different color first. Use a thin, pointed paintbrush and acrylic paint to create your own, unique design. If you are worried about messing up, sketch out your design using a light-colored, washable marker.
- Try generic designs, such as zigzags, polka dots, or stripes.
- Paint popular Halloween characters, such bats, black cats, skeletons, or witches.
- Paint a Jack-o-Lantern face onto your pumpkin. Black or yellow paint will work well for this.
[Edit]Drawing and Writing on Pumpkins - Draw designs with a black permanent marker for a simple look. Sketch out your design with a light-colored washable marker first. If you make a mistake, wipe it off with a damp cloth. Once you are happy with your design, go over it with a black permanent marker; a black paint pen may also work.[7]
- You can create all sorts of designs, such as Jack-o-Lantern faces, geometric patterns, and fancy flourishes.
- Paint your pumpkin before drawing on it if you want something fancier. Coat a pumpkin with 2 coats of black spray paint. Let the paint dry, then draw designs on the pumpkin using a white paint pen. Alternatively, you can paint the pumpkin white, then draw on it using a black permanent marker or a black paint pen.[8]
- Shake the paint pen until you hear it rattle, then tap it lightly on a sheet of paper until the paint comes out of the tip.
- Turn a pumpkin into a chalkboard if you want to change your message. Paint your pumpkin with chalkboard paint according to the instructions on the can. Let the paint dry and cure. Rub chalk over it, then wipe the chalk off with a dry cloth. Write or draw on the pumpkin as desired with chalk.[9]
- It would be best to use a fake craft pumpkin. This way, you can use it throughout the year!
- Write a message with thumbtacks for a unique twist. Spray paint your pumpkin first, if desired, then let the paint dry. Write a simple word, such as "BOO!" using a light-colored washable marker. Stick gold or silver thumbtacks into the pumpkin using the drawn lines as a guide. Place the tacks close enough so that they are touching.[10]
- You can use any type of font you want, including cursive.
- Use 2 to 3 rows of thumbtacks to make the letters thicker.
- Create multiple pumpkins to spell out a single word. Choose 1 of the decorating methods from above, then use it to create a single letter on each pumpkin. Arrange the pumpkins to spell out a word, such as "BOO!".
[Edit]Gluing Items to Pumpkins - Hot glue rickrack and grosgrain ribbon along the ribs for a simple look. Hot glue each piece along the vertical ribs (indented lines) of your pumpkin. Start from the top of the pumpkin and finish at the bottom; trim off any excess rickrack or ribbon.[11]
- Get some rickrack and grosgrain ribbon in several different colors and patterns for a more colorful look.
- Stack thin trims on top of wider ones to make the pumpkin more detailed.
- Hot glue rhinestones if you want to make a fancy pumpkin. Choose a fake craft pumpkin from the craft store, then spray paint it a different color, if desired. Let the paint dry, then hot glue rhinestones to it. You can also hot glue strands of sequin trim to create designs such as words, spirals, and polka dots.[12]
- You can try using a real pumpkin, but you will need to wipe it down with a damp cloth first to remove any surface dirt.
- Glue lace around the middle of the pumpkin for a rustic-chic look. Find white or black lace trim that is between wide. Cut a strip long enough to wrap around the middle of your pumpkin. Secure the lace to the pumpkin using hot glue or fabric glue.[13]
- Try black lace on top of a white pumpkin for a spooky look.
- Spray paint the pumpkin first to make the lace pop!
- Decoupage paper onto a pumpkin if you like to scrapbook. Purchase patterned paper with large designs on it, such as flowers or birds. Cut the designs out. Stick the paper to the pumpkin with decoupage glue until the entire surface is covered. Coat the pumpkin with a final layer of decoupage glue.[14]
- Glue tissue paper fall leaves onto a pumpkin for a festive look. Trace fall leaves onto red, orange, and yellow tissue paper. Cut the leaves out, then glue them to the pumpkin using decoupage or tacky glue. Coat the leaves with another layer of glue to seal them in, then let everything dry.[15]
- Create realistic veins by brushing the leaves inward from the outside edges with a coarse-bristle brush. Do this while they are still wet.
- Trace leaves onto silver "fancy foil wrap" for a fancier look. You can find this product in the baking aisle of a craft store.[16]
- Drill holes into a pumpkin, then add flowers to make a centerpiece. Cut your desired flowers down to . Drill holes into a real or fake craft pumpkin, then insert the cut flowers into the holes. Use a combination of large, medium, and small flowers; they can be real or fake.[17]
- Use dark, neutral, or fall colors, such as red, orange, yellow, brown, teal, or plum.
- Choose fall flowers, such as dahlias, mums, sunflowers, and yellow daisies. Avoid spring flowers, such as tulips and daffodils.
- You can create any sort of pattern you want, but put the flowers close enough together so that they touch.
- Apply gold leaf to a fake pumpkin for a fancy, gilded design. Spread clear craft glue over the surface of a fake craft pumpkin. Use tweezers to pick up pieces of gold leaf, and a soft-bristled paintbrush to smooth them down. Let the glue dry, then smooth the surface further with a soft cloth.
- You can buy gold leafing kits in the craft store. They come in silver, gold, and copper.
- You can use a real pumpkin, but it will eventually rot. Gold leaf is expensive, so it is better to use it on a fake craft pumpkin, which will last forever.
[Edit]Making Cute Pumpkin Creatures - Create a cat using black paint and construction paper. Paint your pumpkin black using black acrylic paint. Let the pumpkin dry, then cut 2 triangles out of black construction paper. Fold the bottom of each triangle by to make a tab, then glue it to the top of the pumpkin to make the ears. Give the cat more details, such as:
- Cut a pink triangle out of construction paper, and glue it to the middle of the pumpkin for the nose.
- Cut 2 almond shapes out of yellow or green construction paper, then draw a black vertical line down the middle of each 1 for the pupils. Glue these above the nose.
- Paint some whiskers and a mouth using white or gray acrylic craft paint and a thin, pointed paintbrush.
- Turn a black pumpkin into a bat for a spooky twist. Paint a pumpkin black with acrylic craft paint, then let it dry. Cut 2 large bat wings and 2 large triangular ears out of black construction paper. Fold the end of each wing by to make a tab, then glue the tab to the sides of the pumpkin. Fold the bottom of each ear by , and glue them to the top of the pumpkin. Give the bat details, such as:
- Cut 2 round eyes out of red, white, or yellow construction paper and glue it to the middle of the pumpkin.
- Use white acrylic craft paint and a thin, pointed paintbrush to add a simple mouth and white, pointed fangs.
- Create a witch pumpkin by painting it green and giving it a witch hat. Paint your pumpkin green, then let it dry. put a black witch hat on top of the pumpkin. Glue some straw or raffia under the hat to make the hair. Add some other details, such as:
- Paint 2 large white circles for the eyes, then add a smaller black dot in the middle of each one for the pupils.
- Paint a mouth using black acrylic craft paint and a thin, pointed paintbrush.
- Roll up bits of green construction paper, then glue it to the face to make warts.
- Turn a white pumpkin into a ghost or skeleton. Buy a white pumpkin, or paint an orange pumpkin using white acrylic craft paint. Paint 2 large black circles for the eyes. If you want to make a ghost, paint a third black circle below the eyes for the mouth. If you are making a skeleton, paint a small, black triangle instead, then add a toothy grin below that.
- If you are having trouble painting a skeleton's mouth, start with a long, horizontal line, then paint short vertical lines going through it, like this: |-|-|-|-|
- Wrap a painted pumpkin with gauze to create a mummy. Paint a pumpkin using acrylic craft paint. Let the paint dry, then wrap the pumpkin using crisscrossing strips of gauze. Hot glue large googly eyes to the pumpkin to complete the mummy's face.[18]
- Leave some spaces between the gauze so that you can see the paint. Hot glue the ends of the gauze down so that it doesn't fall off.
- Use a ghoulish color for your paint, such as black, blue, green, gray, or teal.
- Glue candy corn to a small pumpkin to make a hedgehog. Hot glue candy corn all over your, but leave a large circle in the middle of 1 side blank for the face. Paint 2 black eyes, a brown triangular nose, and 2 rosy cheeks to finish your hedgehog.[19]
- Use brown, orange, and white candy corn for a more realistic hedgehog.
- Glue the candy corn pieces close enough so that the sides are touching. The smaller your pumpkin is, the less candy you'll have to use.
[Edit]Pumpkin Stencils - Use fake craft pumpkins if you want your project to last.
- Wipe real pumpkins down with a damp cloth before decorating them. Keep in mind that paint will still chip easily if you are not careful.
- Decorate your pumpkin with stickers or self-adhesive rhinestones for a quick and easy project.
[Edit]Warnings - Use low-temp hot glue guns instead of high-temp ones. They are less likely to cause painful burns and blisters.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Painting on Pumpkins - Pumpkin, real or fake
- Spray paint or acrylic craft paint
- Paintbrushes, if using acrylic craft paint
- Stencils, paint pens, etc. (optional)
[Edit]Drawing and Writing on Pumpkins - Pumpkin, real or fake
- Spray paint or acrylic craft paint
- Paintbrushes, if using acrylic craft paint
- Washable markers
- Paint pens or permanent markers
[Edit]Gluing Items to Pumpkins - Pumpkin, real or fake
- Hot glue or tacky glue
- Embellishments (rickrack, rhinestones, etc.)
[Edit]Decorating Pumpkins in Other Ways - Pumpkin, real or fake
- Acrylic craft paint
- Paintbrushes
- Hot glue or tacky glue
- Embellishments (candy, construction paper, etc.)
[Edit]References |
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