| How to Make Maracas Posted: 24 May 2022 09:00 AM PDT Maracas are hollow musical instruments that make a rattling noise when they are shaken. Making your own maracas at home is easy and it is a fun craft project to do with children. You can quickly make maracas out of plastic Easter eggs or you can make paper mache maracas which take a bit more skill. Once you have decorated your maracas, they are ready to shake and make some noise! [Edit]Making Plastic Easter Egg Maracas - Open 2 plastic eggs. Place 1 hand on each half of the plastic egg. Gently twist and pull the halves to separate them. You will be able to make 2 maracas using 2 plastic eggs. If you want to make more maracas, simply use 1 extra egg for each subsequent maraca that you want to make.[1]
- You can purchase plastic eggs from dollar stores or use leftover eggs from Easter.
- Fill 2 plastic egg halves with dry rice and then close each egg. Use a spoon to scoop dry rice into 2 of the plastic egg halves. Gently twist the plastic eggs back together after adding the rice. There needs to be enough rice in each egg to fill it halfway.[2]
- You can use any type of rice, provided that it isn't cooked.
- Alternatively, you can also use small plastic beads or small pieces of dry pasta if you prefer.[3]
- Be careful to hold the half that is full of rice secure while you twist the other half back on.
- Filling each egg halfway with rice is only an approximate measurement. Try adding different amounts of rice to see how the sound changes when you use the maracas.
- Place each plastic egg in between 2 plastic spoons. Sit the plastic egg crosswise between the bowl part of 2 spoons, with 1 spoon on each side of the egg. When 1 spoon is resting on a surface, the egg will be able to easily balance in this position.[4]
- Wrap the plastic egg and spoons in washi tape to hold them together. Attach the plastic spoons to the egg by wrapping washi tape around the outside of the spoons and the egg. Make sure that you wrap the washi tape around the egg and spoons at least twice so that it is held in place securely. Either wrap the washi tape all over the egg and spoons or just wrap it a few times around the middle, depending on what you prefer. [5]
- You may need somebody else to help hold the plastic egg and the spoons in place while you wrap around the washi tape.
- You can stick to just 1 pattern or color of washi tape, or use a variety of different styles to make your maracas bright and colorful.
- If you don't have washi tape, you could use colorful duct tape instead.[6]
- Hold the spoon handles together using washi tape if they are too far apart. Wrap washi tape tightly around the ends of the spoons to secure them. This allows the maracas to comfortably fit in your hand.[7]
- If the spoon handles are close enough together for you to comfortably hold, then you don't need to wrap them in washi tape unless you prefer to add more decorations!
- Decorate the maracas further with paint or stickers if you prefer. Once your maracas are held together securely, decide if you want to add any additional decorations aside from the washi tape. You could place small stickers over the plastic eggs and spoons to make your maracas stand out. Alternatively, you can get creative with paint and make a design or pattern on your maracas to make them bright and colorful.[8]
- You could also wrap washi tape down the handle of the spoons for an easy decoration.[9]
[Edit]Making Paper Mache Maracas - Get 2 plastic bottles that are approximately . Plastic water, milkshake, or soda bottles are great for making maracas. Empty the bottles and clean them out thoroughly with hot, soapy water before you use them. Make sure that they are completely dry before you begin filling them.[10]
- 2 plastic bottles will make 2 maracas. Get more plastic bottles if you want to make extra maracas.
- Check that each bottle has a secure lid.
- Place 1 cup of dry rice, beans, or pasta into each plastic bottle. Put the lids back onto the bottles and give them a shake. Add more fillings or remove some to adjust the sound.[11]
- Sand, salt, lentils, and bird seed also make good filling options.[12]
- Glue the lids onto the plastic bottles. Place a ring of craft glue either around the inside of each lid or the outside of each bottle where the lid goes. Secure each lid on tightly and make sure it is sitting straight.[13]
- Alternatively, you can use hot glue rather than craft glue to secure the lid.[14]
- Attach the neck of each bottle to a toilet roll tube. Place craft glue around the inside of each toilet roll tube. Push a toilet roll tube gently onto the neck of each bottle to create a handle for the maracas.[15]
- You will need 1 toilet paper tube per plastic bottle.
- Don't lift the maracas up by the handle until the glue is dry.
- Alternatively, you can use masking tape to wrap the toilet roll tube to each plastic bottle rather than using craft glue.
- Use masking tape to create a cross over the open end of each tube. Cut 2 pieces of masking tape that are approximately in length for each maraca. Stick these over the end of the toilet paper roll that is exposed and not attached to the plastic bottle. Place these in a letter "X" formation to cover the hole.[16]
- Mix together flour, water, and salt to make paper mache paste. Combine 1 cup (120 g) of flour, 1 cup (237 ml) of water, and 1 tsp (5 g) of salt in a large bowl. Use a whisk to mix the ingredients until they are smooth.[17]
- Paper mache the maracas. Tear a few sheets of newspaper into long strips. Dip each strip into the paper mache paste and then draw the strip through your fingers to remove the excess paste. Paste each strip onto the maraca and make sure that you cover the plastic bottle, toilet roll tube, and masking tape fully. Cover each maraca with 3 layers of paper mache.[18]
- Let the maracas dry overnight. Leave the maracas for at least 12 hours so that the paper mache has enough time to dry. Avoid touching the paper mache while it's drying.[19]
- If it's very humid, the paper mache may take longer to dry.
- Add 3 more paper mache layers and let the maracas dry again. Repeat the process of adding extra paper mache layers over the maracas. Let the maracas dry overnight again and then check that the paper mache feels firm before you begin decorating.[20]
- Decorate the maracas with paint. Once the paper mache has fully dried, pick your favorite colors of paint and decorate them however you see fit. Use multiple bright colors if you want your maracas to stand out, or stick to just 1 color for simple decoration. You can also paint patterns or pictures on the maracas if you prefer.
- Wait until the paint dries before you use the maracas.
- Feel free to decorate your maracas with other craft items too, such as plastic beads, buttons, ribbon, or washi tape.[21]
- Experiment with different dry fillings for the maracas to hear different sounds. Sand and rice tend to make softer sounds, while lentils, beans, and pasta tend to make a louder noise.[22]
- Making maracas is a great craft project for children of all ages to enjoy. If you are making maracas with young children, make sure that they have adult supervision so that they don't swallow anything small.[23]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Making Plastic Easter Egg Maracas - Plastic eggs
- Dry rice, pasta, or small plastic beads
- Plastic spoons
- Washi tape or duct tape
- Paint or stickers
[Edit]Making Paper Mache Maracas - Plastic bottles
- Dry fillings such as rice, beans, or pasta
- Craft glue or hot glue
- Toilet roll tubes
- Masking tape
- Large bowl
- Whisk
- Newspaper
- Paint
- Plastic beads, buttons, ribbon, or washi tape
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Divide a Lavender Plant Posted: 24 May 2022 01:00 AM PDT Many species of lavender are perennial plants, meaning they live for two or more years. These plants grow larger each spring and summer, and may eventually outgrow your garden. However, lavender is fragile when divided, so expert gardeners use small cuttings to create new plants. If your plant is too large, mostly dead, or flowering less each year, the risky division process may be required. [Edit]Deciding Whether or not to Divide Lavender - Use cuttings instead of division to create new plants. Try to propagate lavender plants through cuttings instead of division, if your goal is to create more plants. Cuttings have a high survival rate and are easier to start. Division significantly increases the chance of plant death, and should only be used if necessary for the survival of the plant.[1]
- If your lavender is overgrown, try pruning instead. Due to the high risk of death following division, even an overgrown lavender plant should usually not be split apart. Prune away about ⅓ of its branches instead, leaving a little of the young, green growth on the plant.[2]
- Ideally, prune the lavender plant in spring or early summer, just after new growth begins. Pruning in autumn can cause the plant to waste energy on new growth, leaving it vulnerable to frost.
- Do not prune lavender plants in the first year, when they are establishing roots.
- If the old, woody growth is already too large for your garden, consider taking several cuttings and removing the old plant entirely once the new ones have been established for a year. Division is a more rapid but riskier solution.
- Before considering division, look for a consistent decrease in flowering from year to year. Pay attention to how many flowers your lavender produces, compared to previous years. A slight or temporary decrease may be due to differences in the weather. A safe move may be to start new plants from cuttings, and continue to watch the progress of the old plant.
- Examine the center of the lavender plant. Older lavender plants may begin to die in the center, only producing flowers around the outside. This is one of the few situations in which dividing a lavender plant may be necessary. However, any lavender plant has a significant risk of death following division.
- Opinions are divided on whether a younger or older plant has a lower risk from division.[3][4]
[Edit]Taking Cuttings from Lavender (Softwood or Hardwood Methods) - Begin in spring or summer. Take the cuttings during the warm growing season, or roots may fail to form. Cuttings have the best chance to become established if you cut them early in springtime, but if you want additional flowers, you may wait until early or mid summer, then take the cuttings after the plant has bloomed.[5] Waiting later than mid summer is not recommended unless you live in an area with late or no frosts, as the plant needs at least six weeks to grow roots before the ground freezes.[6]
- Select a branch with at least two leafy nodes. "Nodes" are the clumps on a branch from which a cluster of leaves sprout. Select a young branch, low on the plant, with at least two nodes. There are two different methods of selecting a branch:
- Softwood cuttings use only soft, new-growth material from this year, that has not yet become brown and woody. These cuttings will grow fastest, but are only usable if the soft material is at least 5 in. (12 cm) long, and includes at least two leafy nodes.[7][8]
- Hardwood cuttings include woody, brown stem material, but must also have at least an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) of soft, new growth at the tip. These require a root stimulator to encourage root growth, available at a gardening store.
- Acquire a root stimulator (optional with the softwood method). A root stimulator is necessary for growing hardwood cuttings. It is optional for softwood cuttings, since the young stem will grow roots without it. A root stimulator may be useful for a softwood cutting if you removed it from the mother plant late, less than six weeks before the first expected frost.
- Check the label and ingredients of a root stimulator before purchasing. Select a root stimulator that contains a root hormone, not just fertilizer and vitamin B1.[9]
- Prepare small pots or a starting tray of special soil. Prepare a seed starting tray or small flowerpots to place the cuttings in for the first few weeks after cutting. Because plants without roots are sensitive to both drought and excessive moisture, use a special mix of 50% organic compost and 50% perlite to retain water at the correct level.[10][11] Similar mixes sold at gardening stores can be used as well, such as a mix of sphagnum moss and perlite.
- Terra cotta flowerpots are preferable to plastic ones due to their "breathability," especially if you soak the flowerpot in water overnight before continuing to the next step below.[12]
- Cut the branch with a sharp, clean knife. Sharpen and clean a knife if necessary, to prepare for a tidy cut with low chance of infection. Slice off the selected branch just below a leafy node, removing a cutting at least 5 in. (13 cm) long, including at least two leafy nodes. The longer the cutting is, and the more nodes it has, the more likely it is to be successful.
- Using scissors is not recommended, as they may pinch the stem and make it more difficult for roots to emerge.[13]
- Cut off all but the top cluster of leaves. Leave the top cluster of leaves alone, as they will provide energy for the new plant. Use your knife to cut all other leaves off the plant, so it directs its energy at root development rather than excessive foliage growth.[14]
- Be careful not to damage the bark while removing the leaves.
- Dip the base of the cutting in a root stimulator (optional with the softwood method). Follow the instructions on the label of the root stimulator to dilute it to the correct strength, if your root stimulator is concentrated or in powdered form. Dip the bottom ¾ inch (2 cm) of the cutting, at the cut end, into the prepared root stimulator solution.[15]
- Plant the cuttings in the prepared containers, and water thoroughly. Plant the cuttings in the containers you prepared earlier, just deep enough to keep them steady. Give them a generous quantity of water immediately after planting, relative to the small size of the container.
- Keep damp and shaded, but gradually expose to less water and more sun. Overwatering is a common mistake for new lavender cuttings. After the initial soaking, only water the cuttings when the soil begins to dry out, not when the soil is still moist.[16] Shade will help minimize damage from the stress of transplanting for the first several days, but after this the plant can be moved incrementally to brighter environments.
- Greenhouse environments may be too damp for lavender cuttings.[17] However, if the cutting is looking limp or dry after one or two days, moving it to a greenhouse or under a plastic bag may help it retain moisture until it develops roots.[18]
- Transplant into a larger pot or the ground once roots develop. After at least three weeks, and more commonly six weeks or more, strong roots will have developed in the small pot or starting tray. Once the roots have bound the soil together in the container, you can move this soil and the lavender plant into a larger flowerpot or flower bed.[19] Plant in rich, well-draining soil and care for it as you would any lavender plant.
[Edit]Taking Cuttings from Lavender (Layering Method) - Choose a small, young branch near the base of the lavender. For each cutting you plan to make, select a small branch attached to the outside base of the lavender plant. A young, bendable branch is required, or a branch growing horizontal just above the soil surface.
- There are several related methods of propagation referred to as "layering." This one is simple and low-risk, but can be labor-intensive if you plan to create more than a few cuttings. Refer to the tips below if you want to turn your lavender plant into dozens of new cuttings instead.
- Bury the middle of the branch in a shallow hole. Dig a 4–6 inch (10–15 cm) hole in the soil, a short distance from the mother plant. Position this hole so you can bend the middle of the selected branch down into it, with the leaves and flowers at the end above ground on the other side of the hole.
- Anchor the branch in place. Hold the branch in place with rocks or a bent stake to prevent it springing out of the hole. Bury the center of the branch in soil to fill the hole, leaving the flowering end above ground.
- Keep the buried branch moist. Water the buried section occasionally, keeping it moist but not soggy. Take care not to let the soil dry out during hot summer months.
- Watering is not recommended while the plant is dormant for the winter.
- Mulch can help the soil retain water, but may cause plants to overheat during hot weather.
- Dig up and cut the branch after at least three months of growing season. While you can begin this process any time, the branch may not develop a strong stem and roots until the growing season in spring and summer. After three or four months of growth, preferably as cool autumn weather begins, carefully dig around the buried branch to look for roots. If they are present and clumping the soil together, cut off the branch so all the roots are on the same piece as the flowering end.
- Transplant the cutting as a new lavender plant. Move the cutting directly to its new location, moving the surrounding soil along with it to avoid damaging the roots. Keep the plant sheltered from wind until stronger roots develop, and care for it as you would any lavender plant.
[Edit]Dividing a Lavender Plant - Use this method only as a last resort. Lavender plants, unlike many perennials, do not handle division well. Read the section on deciding how to propagate lavender for more advice, or refer to either section on cuttings instead if your main goal is to produce new lavender plants.
- Divide in early spring. Lavender plants are dormant during winter, although they may retain their greyish-green color. Wait until early spring to divide the plant, but do not wait until the plant begins the growing season in earnest.[20]
- Identify areas for division. If the center of the plant is dead, you should be able to identify individual clusters of stems circling the dead area, attached to the same section of roots. Plan to divide the plant so each new section has at least three to five growing stems and roughly equal shares of the root base.
- This may require you to include multiple clusters in one division.
- Dig holes for the divided plants. As a rough guide, each hole should be about twice as wide as the root ball, and approximately 12 inches (30 cm) deep. Keep in mind that these root balls will be smaller after division.
- Add enriched soil to the bottom of the hole. Organic material such as compost or pine bark can be mixed into your garden soil to use as backfill, or the material can be placed in a layer about 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep at the base of each hole.
- Optionally, add a small amount of fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium to the base of the hole as well.[21]
- Dig the lavender plant partially or fully out of the ground. If the plant is not excessively large, the center is not dead, or separate divisions are not easily visible while the plant it is in the ground, you may wish to remove the entire plant before dividing it. Otherwise, remove portions of the soil around the plant to increase visibility and access to the root ball.
- Pry down on the handle of the shovel as you move around the plant until the plant releases from the ground.
- Use a shovel to cut apart the root ball. Most lavender plants cannot easily be pried apart, but if your variety grows discrete clusters, you may attempt to pry them apart with two garden forks. More commonly, you will need to use a clean, sharp shovel to cut the lavender plant as you decided above, then use garden forks to pry apart the entwined roots.
- Plant each section in its own hole. Plant each new lavender plant to the same depth it was planted previously, gently tamping down the soil around it as you fill the hole. Water thoroughly after planting to encourage new roots growth and set the plant in the soil. Continue to care for the lavender as usual.
- Taking a few cuttings from a healthy lavender plant shouldn't cause any harm to the mother plant, which can be cared for as usual.
- You can sacrifice your lavender plant to create dozens of new cuttings, but only if it is between three and five years old. In spring, bury the lowest 12 inches (30 centimeters) of stems with a mound of wet soil, shaking the stems and packing down the soil to remove air gaps. In mid-autumn, several weeks before the first frost, take apart the mound and cut off the stems where they have formed new woody branches.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Prevent Static in Laundry Posted: 23 May 2022 05:00 PM PDT Static cling on laundry can be a big inconvenience. Dealing with static cling on clothes can be an irritating part of doing laundry. Preventing static cling, however, can be achieved both before and after you do the laundry with sprays, implements, and a basic understanding of how static cling occurs. [Edit]Using Sprays and Liquids to Prevent Static - Add vinegar to the laundry after the rinse cycle. Simply pour 1/4 to 1/2 cup of white vinegar to the laundry load during the rinse cycle and your clothes should come out clean and static free. This is an especially good choice for cotton clothing or sheets, but it doesn't do as well with fleece or polyester.[1]
- The vinegar will also keep soap residue off the clothes as they're rinsed.
- Use post-laundry sprays which reduce static cling. A popular product known as Static Guard is one such product which can eliminate static charge in clothes after they dry. Sprays contain special compounds which discharge static electricity in clothes. They can be applied to freshly cleaned clothes to make them static-free. Simply point the nozzle at the article of clothing in question and squeeze the top. A mist of aerosolized liquid will eject from the can.
- Try making a DIY spray by mixing 1 bottle cap of fabric softener into a spray bottle filled with water.[2]
- Use fabric softener. Fabric softeners are liquid concoctions of chemicals used to make fabric softer. They impart a pleasant odor to your clothes and are capable of preventing static cling in laundry as well.[3] Popular brands include Downy, Bounce, and Snuggle. Each softener has directions on the back of the container. Generally, you must pour them into your washing machine during the rinse cycle, then allow the cycle to run as normal.[4]
- If your washing machine has a built-in fabric softener dispenser, pour the fabric softener into it. If not, add the liquid to the washing machine itself after adding the clothes.
- You can also purchase laundry detergent with fabric softener added to it.
- Spray distilled water on your clothes after they come out of the dryer. Spraying a fine mist of distilled water across the surface of the clothes as they come out of the dryer will prevent them from being too dry and sticking to each other or other surfaces, which can lead to the buildup of static charge. Fill a standard size spray bottle with distilled water and give the handle one good pump across the surface of your clothes from a distance of approximately two feet.
[Edit]Preventing Static By Adjusting the Washing and Drying Conditions - Line-dry your clothes. Air-drying can prevent static cling altogether.[5] If you have to use a dryer, take your clothes out of it as soon as they are sufficiently dry or while they are still slightly damp. Over-drying your clothes can lead to static cling.
- Static happens when there's friction between two electrically insulating materials, especially in a dry environment—like a clothes dryer.[6]
- Separate clothes by material. Some materials are morel likely to build up static electricity than others.[7] Synthetic materials like polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate tend to develop high levels of static cling after washing. Natural fabrics like cotton, wool, linen, and silk, on the other hand, tend to stay relatively static-free. Washing and drying natural and synthetic fibers in the same cycles can result in static cling on all your clothes, so it's a good idea to wash them separately.
- Alternately, you could choose to dry the natural materials in the machine and dry the synthetic materials on the line.[8]
- Use a humidifier.[9] A damp environment prevents clothes from sticking to each other as much as they do when they are very dry. While letting your clothes dry on the rack or on the line, run a humidifier. A humid atmosphere makes the air more conductive than the clothes for the buildup of static charges, which essentially makes the clothes a less attractive target. Running a humidifier during especially dry seasons like winter will also prevent buildup of static electricity on your clothes and body.
- A drying rack is a small rack of wood or plastic with several parallel rungs upon which clothing can be set to dry.
- Limit the amount of time your clothes spend in the dryer. Instead of letting them run the full hour-long cycle, let them run only 45 minutes. Remove them and hang them on hangers or a washing line to dry the rest of the way. You'll save money by running the machine for a shorter period and reduce your carbon footprint in addition to limiting the static cling of your clothes.
[Edit]Preventing Static With Dryer Additives - Place a dryer sheet in your dryer. Dryer sheets contain positively-charged ingredients which are released only when in the presence of static electricity. Their presence ensures electrical charges will be neutralized. To use dryer sheets, simply place one (or two for large loads) on top of wet clothes in the dryer before running it.
- Dryer sheets do more than just remove static. They also lend a pleasant, fresh fragrance your laundry.
- You can also rub laundry sheets on your clothes to "wipe away" static after they come out of the dryer.[10]
- Attach some safety pins to your clothes before putting them in the dryer. Adding two safety pins to a sock will channel the static electricity into the pins. Think of them as a lightning rod for static charges in the dryer. Attach the safety pins to the sock when the clothes are wet and being transferred from the washer to the dryer.
- You can also rub a metal hanger across the surface of each item of clothing after removing it from the dryer to discharge static.
- Consider using dryer balls. These are small balls of foil, plastic, or wool which, when placed in a dryer with your clothes, reduce static cling. Since static develops from the friction of clothes rubbing against each other, adding an object like a dryer ball to the mix can add a layer between clothes which prevents them from accumulating the electrical charge which causes static. Other benefits of dryer balls include keeping your clothes separated and fluffy.
- You could, instead of using a commercial or homemade dryer ball, use a tennis ball or even some clean, soft sneakers.[11]
- Use an aluminum foil ball. While similar to the dryer ball, the aluminum foil ball actually works on a different principle, and causes the static to accumulate in the aluminum foil ball, not in the clothes. Using regular aluminum foil of the variety commonly found in kitchens, cut about three or four square feet of aluminum. Crunch it loosely into a rough ball, then smooth it in your hands by rolling it between your palms until it becomes rounded. Each should be two to three inches across when finished. Toss three or four balls in the dryer along with your clothes.[12]
- Wash your laundry with soap nuts. Soap nuts are a type of berry which possesses anti-static properties. To use soap nuts, drop a handful (5-6) in a muslin bag. Tie it off and drop it into the regular laundry load before starting the washing machine.
- When using soap nuts, you can eliminate or reduce the volume of detergent. Be sure to use them with hot water for best results.[13]
- Fabric softener is also available in ball form.
- If you don't have fabric softener on hand, you can substitute it with baking soda, borax, or white distilled vinegar.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Remove the Smell of Bleach from Your Hands Posted: 23 May 2022 09:00 AM PDT Bleach is one of the most well-known and often used cleaners and sanitizers on the market. It leaves everything looking brighter, but it also leaves everything smelling very heavily of chlorine, including your hands. That smell can be overpowering not only to you but to those around you as well so it's important to remove it as quickly as possible. [Edit]Things You Should Know - Use lemon or tomato juice to neutralize bleach odors on your skin.
- Scrubbing your hands with baking soda or coffee grounds will also work.
- Massage coconut oil or olive oil into your skin to remove bleach odors and moisturize at the same time.
[Edit]Eliminating the Smell - Neutralize the bleach with lemon or tomato juice. Neutralize bleach's base chemical make-up with foods high in natural acids.[1] Combining an edible liquid acid with bleach is a great way to even out the overall pH and eliminate that unpleasant odor. Use any one of the following foods to neutralize the bleach:
- Lemon juice [2]
- Another citrus juice like lime, orange, or grapefruit
- Tomatoes (tomato sauce, puree, or paste work as well)
- Coat your hands with juice or vinegar. Rub it in well. It's best to do this for at least a minute as it gives you time to make sure you've covered everything. This also allows the liquid to soak in and neutralize the bleach.
- Rinse your hands with cool water. Voila! The smell will hopefully be gone.
- Soak your hands if the smell remains. If washing your hands doesn't work, or you don't wish to use straight liquid on your hands, dilute these acidic foods 1:1 with water. Then let your hands soak in this mixture for 2-3 minutes.
- Create an exfoliant scrub from household products. Combining a food that is both dry and high in acid content with bleach is a great way to even out the overall pH and eliminate that unpleasant odor as well. Use one of these dry acids as a rub to neutralize the base:
- Baking soda[3]
- Coffee grounds[4]
- Choose your rub. Take the rub of your choice and do just that: rub it all over your hands. Take your time and rub it in well, much like an exfoliant scrub. Do this for one minute. Wipe off the excess into a trashcan and rinse with hot water. This will allow the rub to penetrate deeply into your pores. If you don't like the smell of coffee, of course, opt for using baking soda.
[Edit]Moisturizing While Deodorizing - Use select natural oils, lotions, and soaps. Often times natural food, and plant-based oils have a wonderful aroma. They also have the added benefit of moisturizing your skin. Since bleach dries out the skin, it is a win-win: no more dry skin, no more chlorine stink. Some suggestions include:
- Coconut oil[5]
- Almond Oil
- Olive oil
- Aloe Vera lotion: make sure the lotion is high in Aloe Vera as that will make a huge difference in its effectiveness
- Tea tree oil lotion: like Aloe Vera, a higher concentrate will do a better job
- Citrus based lotions
- Citrus based soaps: there are some all-natural soaps that provide both the cleaning power of soap and the moisturizing effects of lotion. Check your local health food store to see if they have any that fit your needs and budget.
- Apply a little at a time. When using oils you don't want to overdo it. You could wind up over-oiling yourself, thus adding another step (namely, removing all that excess oil!).
- Apply a few dollops. If you're using lotion, this should be enough to coat your entire hand and give you a good idea if you need more and if the lotion you've chosen is doing the job.
- Lather up. If you use a citrus based soap, lather up then use hot water. This helps the soap latch onto those base bleach molecules and lift them out.
[Edit]Using Flowers, Plants and Herbs - Choose essential oils. These give you the ability to choose from a wide variety of oils to find the one you like the best.[6] Make sure to never apply essential oils directly to the skin[7] as they are, in general, too strong for direct contact. Dilute the essential oil in what is known as a carrier oil and apply as needed. Essential oil examples are:
- Lemon
- Eucalyptus
- Lavendar
- Peppermint
- Chamomile
- Marjoram
- Choose your carrier oil. Some examples are:
- Sweet almond oil
- Hempseed oil
- Fractionated coconut oil
- Olive oil
- Sunflower oil
- Follow the directions on the essential oil bottle for diluting it in your carrier oil. A good rule of them is a 2-percent solution. This means approximately one drop of essential oil per ounce of carrier oil.[8]
- Pick petals from your garden. Find the most fragrant flowers or herbs in your yard or purchase them at the store. Then rub the petals or leaves in your fingers and hands to release the fragrant oils within them. Choose such fragrances as:
- Roses
- Geraniums
- Lavendar
- Rosemary
- Peppermint
- Spearmint
- If preferred, you can cut the lemon into slices and rub these over your hands.
- Rinse your hands with cold water before deodorizing. Contrary to popular opinion, it is best to rinse with cold water because hot water opens your pores and allows the bleach molecules to be trapped deeper into your pores. By using cold water you are constricting those pores and making it easier to lift the smell off your hands.
- Check your hands for cuts, hangnails, etc. You may not want to use the food acids method if you have any because the high acid content will hurt those open wounds quite a bit.
- A paste of baking soda and water rubbed into your hands will achieve the same outcome as using dry baking soda.
- Milk, known to take the smell out of fish and other foods, is sometimes recommended as well.
- When it comes to using acids to neutralize a base, the rule of thumb is this: if you can't eat it, don't use it. Using inedible acids can cause severe damage to your hands.
- Mint toothpaste is suggested by some as another alternative.
- Wear rubber gloves when cleaning with bleach. This will solve the problem before it becomes one.[9]
[Edit]Warnings - It is a good idea to wear gloves when using bleach, to protect your skin, as constant use of bleach is very harsh on the skin.
- Do not apply essential oils directly to your skin. If you do so, follow the instructions on the bottle to alleviate or prevent negative reactions.
- Rinsing your hands with inedible acids can cause severe burns. If you realize you have used an inedible acid, rush to your nearest hospital for immediate medical attention.
- Be cautious about what you use to try to eliminate the smell. certain chemicals (exp. vinegar), when mixed with bleach, can be dangerous.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Lemon/lime/orange/grapefruit juice
- Baking soda
- Coffee grounds
- Natural oil, lotion, or soap
- Essential oil
- Carrier oil
- Fragrant flowers or herbs from your yard or the store
- Rinsing area with running water
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