| How to Make a Virgin Strawberry Daiquiri Posted: 18 May 2022 09:00 AM PDT Do you ever envy your friends when they order those fancy cocktails when you can't or don't drink alcohol? Just because you can't consume alcohol (or just don't like the taste) does not mean you have to skip out on those fancy cocktails. Many of these mixed drinks can be made "virgin." This means that they contain no alcohol. - 1 ounce (30 milliliters) fresh lime juice
- 3 ounces (90 grams) fresh strawberries
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- Cracked ice
- 1 strawberry, for garnish
Makes 1 serving [Edit]Making a Virgin Strawberry Daiquiri - Fill a blender with cracked ice. You will need about a glassful of ice.
- Cut and slice 3 ounces (90 grams) of strawberries. Strawberries come in different sizes, so how many strawberries you use will vary. This could be anywhere from 3 to 6 strawberries. A simple way to figure out how many strawberries you'll need is to simply cut and slice some strawberries and start filling up a measuring cup. Stop when you are just short of the ½ cup/4 ounces/120 millimeters mark.
- The best strawberries are fresh and ripe, but you can also use frozen ones as well. If you do use frozen strawberries, thaw them first.
- Add the strawberries to the blender, along with the sugar and lime juice. For a sweeter daiquiri, add some more sugar. Keep in mind that if the strawberries are already very ripe, you may not need much sugar.
- Blend until the mixture is smooth. From time to time, open the blender, and push the mixture down the sides with a spatula. This will help things mix more evenly.
- Pour the mixture into a glass and garnish it with a strawberry. Slice a strawberry partway, from the bottom almost to the top. Slide it over the rim of the glass.
- You can also use other garnishes as well, including mint leaves, paper cocktail umbrellas, or orange/lime slices.
- For a fancier twist, add a swirl of whipped cream on top, and place a maraschino cherry on top.
- Serve. If you'd like, you can pop a straw into the daiquiri.
[Edit]Making Variations - Make it using a strawberry daiquiri mix. If you have a pre-made mix at home, you can use it to make a virgin strawberry daiquiri. Simply follow the directions on the package, but omit the alcohol. If the package does not have instructions, try blending 4 ounces (120 milliliters) of the mix with 1 cup of ice. If the mixture is too thick, add 1 ounce (30 milliliters) of water, and blend again.[2]
- Makes enough for 1 serving.
- Make a kid-friendly strawberry daiquiri. The virgin daiquiri recipe is alcohol free, but it might not be too sour for kids. Try mixing ¼ cup (55 grams) sugar, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, ¾ cup (180 milliliters) lemon-lime soda, 4 ice cubes, and 2 large strawberries in a blender. Pour it into a tall glass, and garnish it with a strawberry. The result will be a little sweeter and somewhat fizzy. This might make it more appealing for kids.[3]
- Makes enough for 1 serving.
- Give it a tropical twist with some pineapple. Mix 14½ ounces (400 grams) of canned pineapple chunks, 12 ounces (350 grams) of frozen strawberries, 2 tablespoons of sugar, and the juice of 2 medium limes in a blender. Pulse until smooth, then pour into glasses. Garnish with a strawberry or pineapple chunk, and serve.[4]
- Makes enough for 2 servings.
- Give it a fruity punch with orange juice. In a blender, combine 2 cups of ice, 1 cup (200 grams) of sliced strawberries, and 1 tablespoon of sugar. Add the juice of 1 orange and 1 lime. Blend until smooth, then pour into glasses and serve.
- Mix it with a blended pineapple drink to create a virgin lava flow. Prepare only half a strawberry daiquiri mixture and set it aside. In a blender, mix 3 ounces (90 milliliters) of unsweetened coconut cream, 3 ounces (90 milliliters) of pineapple juice, and a handful of ice. Pour the mixture over the top of the strawberry daiquiri. Garnish it with a large strawberry, and serve.[5]
- If you can't find any coconut cream, you can try using coconut milk instead. Coconut milk is a little thinner, so your lava flow will also be thinner.
- If the drink is too thin, add a few ice cubes and blend. You can also add a tablespoon of liquid (such as water, soda water, limeade, strawberry juice, etc).
- Try it with another type of fruit instead of strawberry, such as raspberry, peach, or mango. You may have to use less lime juice and more sugar in order to keep the balance of flavors just right.
- For a hint of flavor, add ¼ teaspoon of vanilla extract.[6]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Knife and cutting board
- Blender
- Cocktail glass
- Straw (optional)
[Edit]References |
| How to Draw a Flower Posted: 18 May 2022 01:00 AM PDT Whether you're hoping to draw a rose, daisy, tulip, or sunflower, the flower is a beautiful subject to practice your sketching — and to help make it fun. It only takes a few simple steps to make a symmetrical, realistic flower, and flowers are perfect for helping you with pattern work or learning how to juxtapose overlapping shapes in your artwork. Plus, they look absolutely stunning, and you can add a splash of color at the end to make them pop off the page. This guide will teach you how to draw 9 different types of flowers, with technique tips and suggestions to make your flowers as lovely as can be. [Edit]A Sunflower - Draw a big circle and then draw a smaller one at the center.[1][2]
- Draw the stem and draw leaves on each side
- Draw a thin elongated heart shape for the petal.
- Repeat step 3 until you have fully covered the edge of your inner circle.
- Add more petals to cover up empty space using pointed angles.[3]
- Draw slanted lines crisscrossed over each other inside the small circle.
- Refine details of the leaves and the stem.
- Color the drawing.
[Edit]A Rose with Stem - Draw curved line. Sketch another one(slightly bigger) below the first until you are able to draw three similar shapes.
- Draw a curved vertical line to represent the stalk and add a leaf on one side.
- Sketch a rough outline of the rose, and then start drawing the petals. Use the "U" >> shape first.
- Sketch the petals so they seem to overlap each other, on the first "U".
- Add petal shaped details on the second "U".
- Use the last "U" to guide you in sketching the petals similar to what you did on the first and second "U".
- You can also add more petals if you wish for a more appealing rose drawing.
- Draw the rose's sepal using pointed angles.
- Add thorns on the stem. This is best drawn using pointed angles. Add details to the rose's leaf, do not forget that it has a serrated margin.
- Color the drawing.
[Edit]A Rose without Stem - Make one circle to form the interior border of the flower.
- Add two more circles to form the outer border of the flower petals.
- Add some rough forms for the petals.
- Draw the final lines.
- Color the drawing and add some shadows and definition lines.
- Finished.
[Edit]A Daffodil - Draw an oval to form the outer edge of the flower leaves. Add two parallel lines and connect the parallel lines at bottom as shown in the picture.[4]
- Draw a connecting smaller oval figure at the top of the parallel lines to form the top of the flower.[5]
- Create a rough sketch of the flower and leaves as illustrated in the picture.[6]
- Add the final lines for the flower and leaves.
- Draw shadows and definition lines and color in your flower.
[Edit]A Cosmos Flower - Sketch a circle.
- Sketch another circle at the center.
- Sketch the petals surrounding the bigger circle. They should be almost of the same sizes and shape.
- Sketch a line for the flower stalk.
- Draw semi-circles around the smaller circle thus, making a flower-like structure. Then you could add something in the middle.
- Draw the basic outline of the petals. The petals at the front should be differentiated from the petals at the back.
- Draw the outline of the bigger circle and the stalk.
- Color the flower.
[Edit]A Tulip - Sketch a circle for the flower and a long slightly curved line for the stalk.
- Add the guides of the petals and the leaves. Draw 2 petals in front and a petal at the back of the 2 petals totalling to 3 petals. The leaves of tulip are long and not straight so the guide lines for the leaves should be long curved lines.
- Sketch the guide of the sepal and the leaves.
- Draw the basic outline of the flower, sepal and the stalk.
- Draw the basic outline of the leaves.
- Add more detail. Draw lines in the leaves and in the petals for a better outcome.
- Color the tulip.
[Edit]A Simple Daisy - Start the outline by sketching a small circle.
- Draw a bigger circle. Make it look like a disc so you could remember the basic outline of a daisy flower whenever you draw one.
- Start drawing the actual lines by the small circle at the middle.
- Begin drawing the petals with two line strokes, up and down directions. Always begin drawing the actual lines with a mirror effect.
- Draw another mirror of petals on the horizontal way.
- Continue drawing the petals using the same technique.
- Finish drawing the petals.
- Erase the outline sketches and color the draft.
- Add the background.
[Edit]A Basic Flower - Draw a small circle in the middle of the page.
- Draw a bigger circle which has the same center point with the small circle.
- Draw the petals of the flowers using curves. Use the circles as guide.
- Draw the petals as to revolve around the circle.
- Draw other petals which occupy the space left in the circle. They don't all have to be in the same length.
- Draw the stem and the leaves by using curves.
- Refine the leaves to resemble a real one.
- Trace with a pen and erase unnecessary lines.
- Color to your liking!
[Edit]A Cartoon Flower - Draw a vertical oblong. Below the oblong, draw a slender rectangle that would serve as the plant's stem.
- Draw two curves at the oval one from the left and the other at the right.
- Draw lines extending from the lower part of the oblong which spread in four directions. Draw a curved loop also at the bottom of the oblong.
- Draw curves which connect the lines to form petals for the flower.
- Draw curves which extend upward in the oval to resemble budding.
- Draw another petal using the same principle and lines along the oblong.
- Refine the drawing and trace with a pen. Erase unnecessary lines.
- Color to your liking!
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Sketchbook
- Colour pencils
[Edit]Quick Summary [Edit]References |
| How to Build an Outdoor Barbeque Posted: 17 May 2022 05:00 PM PDT An outdoor barbecue is a great DIY project that anyone with a little masonry experience can handle. To build a simple but effective brick grill, choose a safe location and start by laying a concrete footer. Build up the courses of bricks layer by layer. When you've reached a height that's comfortable for grilling, you can insert some supports for the grill surface. Top it off with some solid bricks, lay the grill surface down, and you're ready to fire it up! - Gather your materials. If you've got a little bit of masonry experience, this is a project you should be able to handle. Still, you'll need to make a run to the hardware store to get:[1]
- Fiber-reinforced concrete mix
- Mortar mix
- A trowel
- A hammer
- Bricks (including some solid bricks)
- A mason's line or level
- Chalk
- Gravel mix
- lengths of steel rebar
- A metal grill surface
- Dig out the grill area. Use a spade and start digging in your grill area. You'll want to create a hole that is by and deep. Pick a spot that's away from your house and anything else that could easily catch fire.[2]
- Keeping the grill area away from your house will also help prevent smoke from blowing in and bothering anyone.
- Pour concrete into the hole to create the footer. Prepare the concrete mix according to the package instructions. Pour it directly into the hole you dug out for the grill area. If you use fiber-reinforced concrete mix, it will be just fine to pour the concrete on bare dirt.[3]
- Let the concrete dry thoroughly before continuing. This will take 3 to 5 days, typically.
- Draw an outline of the barbecue on the concrete. Grab your chalk and draw a rectangular outline on the concrete footer. You will need to leave at least on all sides for safety reasons. Leave a bit more space if you want to make the barbecue area smaller than this.[4]
- The interior of the grill will need to be just a little bigger than the grill surface that you bought.
- You can used stretched out mason's line or a yardstick to make sure the lines you draw are straight.
- Lay some bricks for a dry fit. Lay two courses of bricks just inside the outline you drew, without using any mortar. Leave between each brick to account for the mortar that will be added later. Check to make sure that everything looks straight.[5]
- You can use concrete blocks instead of bricks, if you wish. You will probably lay fewer courses, since standard blocks are taller than bricks.
[Edit]Laying the Courses - Prepare your mortar mix. You'll need to have this ready to start laying bricks. Follow the instructions on the mix package, and keep the prepared mortar near your work area so it's easy to reach.[6]
- Use bonding cement (prepared to package instructions) rather than mortar if you are making a grill from concrete blocks.
- Start laying bricks at the corners. Put a line of mortar down just inside the outline on the footer, then lay down some bricks at all the the corners. Don't forget to put of mortar between each brick. Build the corners up four courses high.[7]
- To build up each course, smear a layer of mortar (about the thickness of your finger) on top of the bricks on the ground. Lay new bricks on top of the mortar so that they overlap the old ones and create an interlocking pattern. Repeat.
- If you are using concrete blocks, you only need to build up two or three courses at this point.
- Fill in the rows. Work from corner to corner. Make sure to put some mortar down on the top of each course of bricks before laying the next one down. Continue to leave of mortar between each brick as well. You'll now have a rectangle that is four full courses high.[8]
- Wait for the mortar to dry before moving on to the next steps.
- Spread a layer of gravel inside the bricks. You can use any ordinary gravel mix that's available. The type of gravel is not as important as making sure that the footer on the interior of the brick square you have created is covered by a thin layer of it.[9]
- Pour a layer of concrete on top of the gravel. Prepare more concrete mix. Lay a slab on top of the gravel you poured inside the brick rectangle. This creates a barrier of insulation between the fire and ground.[10]
[Edit]Adding the Grill Surface - Continue building up bricks on three sides. After you have the barbecue base, you'll need to build it up higher to provide a place for the charcoal and grill surface to rest. Continue laying courses of bricks, but only on three sides. That way, you'll be able to access the charcoal and grill surface from the open front side.
- Insert rebar to support the charcoal pan. When you reach about four courses above the base, insert (100 mm) lengths of steel rebar into the mortar between one course of bricks and the next. The rebar should jut out just a bit into the interior, open space of the grill area.[11]
- Use a level to check and make sure each course of bricks is level as you lay it.
- Alternatively, you can lay one course of bricks sideways to provide a support surface for the charcoal pan.
- Add supports for the grill surface. Lay a couple more courses of bricks, and then insert more short pieces of rebar (or bricks laid sideways). This will provide a nice, sturdy support for the grill surface, slightly above the charcoal pan.
- Top off the grill walls. Add at least a couple more courses to your grill walls. When it has reached a height that you like, place solid bricks on the top row. This will give the grill a finished look.[12]
- Surround the grill with more bricks (optional). Once you've laid the basic grill, you can lay another row of bricks surrounding the sides and back, but not the front. This is optional, but some people like the look of thicker sides on the grill. You may also find it provides some insulation between the heat of the charcoal and the outside of the grill.
- If you decide to add this layer, just start laying courses of bricks directly around the perimeter of the grill. Keep building up courses of bricks several rows above the top of the center grill area.
- Make sure to leave the front side open.
- Set the grill surface and charcoal pan in place. Lay the metal charcoal pan down on top of the lower set of rebar supports, and the grill surface on the upper ones.They should fit securely inside the grill, but you can remove them later if you need to clean it. Now you're ready to fire up your very own grill![13]
- Make sure to use only food-grade metal for your grill surface and charcoal pan. Do not use any metal that has been painted or in contact with petroleum or any chemicals.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Grow Gardenias Posted: 17 May 2022 09:00 AM PDT Gardenias have won the hearts of swooning Southern belles for ages. Their beautiful petals and divine fragrance have indeed made them a very beloved flower. Gardenias can be grown along hedge rows, in gardens, in your yards or even in pots. However, the fragrant, blooming plant has some very specific demands when it comes to sunlight, temperature, and moisture. Learning all of the details to grow gardenia is well worth the trouble when it comes to the smell and beauty you will receive from your plant. [Edit]Choosing Your Gardenia and Location - Select a compact plant with deep green, glossy foliage. When you select your variety of gardenia, keep in mind that most gardenia varieties grow better in tropical and subtropical climates. The Kleim's Hardy Gardenia is one of the only gardenia varieties that can withstand relatively cold temperatures.[1]
- Other varieties that are more suited for colder weather include Chuck Hayes and Frost Proof.
- Choose a location. Gardenias need a home that receives full to partial sunlight. They like the warmth of the sun for proper growth. Strive to give your gardenia direct morning sun rather than direct afternoon sun.
- If you are putting your gardenia in an indoor pot, you will want to keep it near a south-facing window so that it can get bright, indirect sunlight for most of the day.
- Choose a spot with good soil. Gardenias grow best when they are planted in rich soil that is moist but well-drained. Gardenias do best in soils with acidic pH levels. Try to maintain a pH of 5 or 6. You may want to have your soil tested and then add nutrients according to the results. In particular, if your soil is too basic you will want to add sulfur.[2]
[Edit]Planting Your Gardenia - Avoid planting too close to concrete. While you can still plant your gardenias outside windows so that you can enjoy their lovely smell, you do not want to plant them right up against your house or walkways. The soil near concrete changes in alkalinity and gardenias will struggle when planted in soil with too high of a pH level.
- Add 2 to of organic material to the soil. Gardenias like soil that is rich in nutrients. Work fertilizer, peat moss or manure into the soil to enhance the growth of your plant.
- Plant the gardenia in the prepared area. Plant your gardenias either in the fall or spring. If you are planting more than one gardenia, you must leave three to six feet of space between each plant. The hole you make should be twice as wide as the plant's root ball and only as deep as its length.
- If you are planting your gardenia in a pot, follow the same instructions--the pot will have to be large enough that you can make a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball.
- Place the gardenia in the hole you have made. Cover the root ball with soil so that it is halfway covered, then water the hole. Adding water before you fully cover the gardenia removes any air bubbles and settles the soil. After the water has settled, cover the root ball the rest of the way and pat the soil down around the gardenia. Water the soil and plant again.
- Cover the ground surrounding the gardenia with mulch. In particular, pine mulch works well because it adds to the acidic nature of the soil. Keep the soil surrounding the plant moist until its roots are well established. The mulch should be two inches thick, but shouldn't touch the base of the plant.
[Edit]Caring for Your Gardenia - Water the plant every few days after the initial period of establishment. Try to avoid getting the leaves and blooms soaking wet, as wet leaves are more prone to fungal growth. Water the plant more during extremely dry periods. Gardenias need less water when they are not blooming. Gardenias thrive best when given distilled room-temperature water rather than cold water.[3]
- Check the topsoil of your potted gardenias before watering. If it is still damp, hold off on watering. Many gardenia experts recommend placing your gardenia on a pebble filled tray. You can then pour water on the pebbles, which will in turn provide humidity and moisture for your gardenia.[4]
- Fertilize your growing plant. Gardenias should be fertilized every three weeks. You should use an acid-based fertilizer as gardenias prefer acidic soil and fertilizer. Established plants need fertilizer each March and October.
- Choose from fertilizers such as 6-6-6, 10-10-10, 20-20-20 or 16-4-8. You may find it easier to use a water-soluble fertilizer with your gardenias.
- Prune your gardenia when it is dormant. You should only prune your plant when it is not producing blooms. You should never cut all of the leaves off the plant. You should also 'deadhead' your plant after it is done pruning. This means removing the dead flowers to help your plant produce more blooms.
- Control garden pests. In particular, you should check your gardenias for whiteflies and mealybugs. Other gardenia pests include aphids, spider mites, and thrips. If you notice that your plants have a pest problem, use a horticultural oil to get rid of them.
- Over-watering your plants and planting them too close to one another are both causes of pest problems. Avoid doing both of these things.
- Gardenias are tropical bloomers and like humidity. Consider using a humidifier in the room with your plant if growing it indoors.
- Gardenias prefer warmer days and cooler nights.
- Gardenias can be grown from cuttings that are about 3 inches in height.
[Edit]Warnings - The leaves on the plants may turn yellow if you give your gardenia too much water or it is planted in bad soil.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Acidic soil
- Fertilizer
- Peat moss or manure
- Gardenia plant
- Water
- Mulch
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make a Homemade Ice Pack Posted: 17 May 2022 01:00 AM PDT A homemade ice pack is a good way to soothe a minor injury or cool down on a sweltering day. Making a flexible, ready-to-go ice pack using household items is quick and simple. Make a Ziploc ice pack with rubbing alcohol and water, dish soap, or corn syrup. Alternatively, make a rice-filled ice pack. Customize your new cold compress with touches like a homemade ice pack cover, food coloring, or scented oil. [Edit]Ziploc Ice Pack - Fill a Ziploc bag with 2 parts water and 1 part rubbing alcohol. Pour a 2:1 mixture of water and rubbing alcohol into a Ziploc freezer bag until it is 3/4 full. If desired, add a few drops of food coloring to customize the color of your homemade ice pack. Remove as much air as possible and seal the bag tightly; put it into a second Ziploc freezer bag to ensure that the liquid doesn't leak out.[1]
- If you do not have rubbing alcohol on hand, consider alternative ingredients to make an ice pack, such as dish soap (on its own, no water necessary) or corn syrup.
- Be careful to keep your materials and ingredients away from infants and small children. Rubbing alcohol is dangerous if consumed in large enough quantities and it can also cause irritation to the eyes. Plastic bags also pose a suffocation risk to babies and small children.
- Freeze the bag. Place the liquid-filled Ziploc bag in the freezer. Leave it there for 1 to 2 hours to freeze. Because of the different freezing points of water and alcohol, the solution will develop into a flexible gel or slush instead of freezing solid.[2]
- Gel icepacks can mold to the contours of your body, which may provide better relief than a traditional ice pack or a bag of frozen vegetables.
- Make a cloth ice pack cover to protect your skin. Before applying your homemade ice pack, you should cover it to avoid direct contact with your skin. Find some thick, comfortable material (e.g., from an old flannel shirt) and cut out a piece that is wider than your ice pack, and twice the length of the ice pack, plus . Fold the material by bringing the ends to meet (and overlap) in the middle. Sew together the top and bottom, lengthwise. Leave the middle part open to easily insert and remove the ice pack.
- As a simpler alternative, just wrap the ice pack in a thin kitchen towel or paper towel before placing it on your skin.[3]
[Edit]Rice Ice Pack - Choose a cloth cover for your ice pack. Customize your ice pack by choosing the material and dimensions. For an easy option, choose an old, clean sock. Pillowcases and other pouches are also good options, provided that the material is tightly knit and the sides are closed up. You can also purchase material and sew something yourself.
- A benefit of making a rice ice pack is that you can also use it as a moist heat pack by microwaving it for 1 to 3 minutes.[4]
- Fill up the pouch with uncooked rice. Fill the container approximately 3/4 full so that the filling will disperse evenly when applied to your skin while maintaining its density. Add a few drops of essential oil if you like to give your pack a nice aroma (e.g., lavender oil, to enhance relaxation).[5]
- You can substitute dried beans for rice, if needed.
- Seal the pouch and freeze it. Sew up the end of the ice pack. Make sure that all of the edges are shut tightly, and that there are no small holes in the material where the rice might fall out. Freeze the ice pack for 2 to 3 hours, or until it is chilled.
- After a few hours in the freezer, the rice should feel just as cold as water ice. Unlike ice, it will simply warm up slowly instead of melting.[6]
[Edit]Sponge Ice Pack - Soak a soft sponge in water. Choose a clean, thick sponge large enough to cover the area you want to apply a cold compress to. Opt for a sponge without an abrasive side for scrubbing. To cover a greater area, use a second sponge as well. Run the sponge under water until it is soaked through.[7]
- Seal the sponge in a zip-top freezer bag. Place the wet sponge (or sponges) in a freezer bag to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the freezer. Remove excess air from the freezer bag by gently squeezing it. Seal the bag tightly and place it in the freezer.[8]
- Freeze the sponge and use it as needed. Freeze the pack for several hours. The pack will be stiff when you first remove it from the freezer, so thaw it for a few minutes if you want it to be flexible when you use it. The sponge will soften gradually as it warms up.[9]
- To protect your skin from ice burns, wrap a thin towel around the bag before putting the ice pack on your body.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Ziploc freezer bags
- Cold water
- Rubbing alcohol
- Dish soap
- Corn syrup
- Hand sanitizer
- Food coloring (optional)
- A piece of thick, comfortable fabric
- A sock or fabric pouch
- Uncooked rice or beans
- Essential oil (optional)
- A sewing kit or sewing machine
- A sponge
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make Shorts out of Pants Posted: 16 May 2022 05:00 PM PDT You've got an old pair of pants you no longer wear lying around, but you don't want to throw them out, and summer is coming up—why not turn them into a fashionable pair of cutoff shorts? Converting your unused pants into shorts is a quick and easy project that can lend new life to old clothes. [Edit]Measuring For the Shorts - Try the pants on. See how the pants fit. Pay particular attention to how they feel in the different areas of the hips and legs. It may be that they're comfortable in the waist but too loose or snug in the thighs. Make a note of this: it will help you get the cut right later.
- Decide what length you want for the shorts. Are you going for a more casual knee length, or a super-short summer fit? Decide how long or short you want the shorts to be. Plan on cutting the shorts at least a half inch longer than your desired length to allow for a hem, unless you want to leave the edges unfinished.[1][2]
- Take a look at your favorite pair of shorts for reference when choosing a length.
- Cut the shorts a little longer than desired on your first attempt and try them on. The dimensions of the shorts will look different when worn and they may come out looking right and ready to hem. You can always cut them shorter if you need to, but you can't add material back once it's gone.
- Mark the length. Use a pencil or washable marker to mark where you intend to cut the pant legs. This will guide you while you cut for a cleaner finish, and any remaining marks will wash out later.[3]
- Make a small dot where you want to cut the pant legs while you're wearing them, then mark them the rest of the way while the pants are lying flat so that the marks will be straight.
[Edit]Cutting the Shorts - Choose a cutting implement. Scissors are the obvious choice and allow more manual control, but a box cutter can provide a straighter, more precise cut, and tearing will create a more rugged, distressed look.
- Exercise caution when using any cutting tool, particularly the box cutter; these have extremely sharp exposed edges that make cutting a breeze, but can pose a danger to the user if not wielded safely.
- Cut the marked pant leg. Lay the pants flat and smooth out any wrinkles or folds. Use the scissors or box cutter to cut the pant leg. Follow the measuring marks you made carefully to ensure you get the right length.[4]
- Once you've cut the first leg, place the removed portion over the second leg to make sure that they're both the same length.
- Longer strokes with the scissors work best to keep the edges from becoming choppy.
- If you're using the box cutter, make sure you have a suitable cutting surface underneath the pants. Otherwise, the blade can scar surfaces when it slices through the fabric.
- Tear the pant leg. Alternatively, if you want your new shorts to have a rougher look, you can tear the pant legs by hand. Make a one- to two-inch incision with the scissors or box cutter to open a small hole and tear the leg the rest of the way. Place the pant leg across your lap and tear toward yourself slowly to keep the tear even; if you mess up, it can be difficult to salvage the tear.
- For a more even tear, you can make multiple smaller holes and "connect the dots" by tearing between them.
- If you do happen to make a mistake while tearing, make a straight cut in the uneven part with the scissors and try again.
- Torn shorts with unfinished hems tend to look better when using rougher materials like denim, as the thread is coarse and tends to fray in a more visually appealing way. The tearing method can also work with especially old or worn pants to go along with the rugged look.
- Look for adjustments to make. Try the shorts on. If they're too long, cut them again about half an inch at a time until they're the preferred length. Remove any loose threads, frayed edges or uneven nicks made by the scissors until the leg openings are clean and level.
[Edit]Finishing the Hem - Measure your hem. Decide what length you'd like the hem to be and mark the shorts again. Shorter hems will produce a neater, more uniform look, while a longer hem will create the appearance of folds.[5]
- Stitch the hems. Fold the hem under twice (or over, if you want the folded look) and use a sewing machine to stitch the hem at the proper length. You can also sew the hem by hand, if you prefer. Take care not to stitch the leg opening shut by mistake.[6]
- If you don't have access to a sewing machine and want a completed hem for you shorts, take them to any alteration shop to have them stitched for a small price.
- Place a rounded object in the leg opening and stitch around it to avoid sewing the leg opening shut.
- Try on your finished shorts. You're finished! See how the new shorts look. If the hem is too long or too short, the stitching can be snipped and redone. Experiment with other lengths, hems and styles and add a fresh new dimension to your wardrobe.
- Make sure all folds and edges are even before sewing.
- Use fabric glue to stick on sequins or jewels, or sew on patches for added customization.
- Fabric glue can also be used to secure edges if sewing isn't an option.
[Edit]Warnings - Do your best not to make any mistakes in measuring or cutting. Remember—once it's cut or torn, it can't be undone.
- Be careful when using the sewing machine or needle and thread. Accidents happen.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Old pair of pants
- Scissors
- Box cutter (optional)
- Sewing machine (optional)
- Needle and thread (optional)
- Pencil or washable marker
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| How to Make Mascara Posted: 16 May 2022 09:00 AM PDT Many store-bought mascaras are expensive, full of ingredients that could be damaging to the environment, harmful for your body, or that you may wish to avoid for personal or ethical reasons. But that doesn't mean you have to forgo mascara altogether, and making your own is actually pretty simple. In fact, the most difficult part about homemade mascara is getting your new product into the mascara tube! However, there are a few methods you can try that will make your job easier. You may need to seek out some specialty ingredients that you don't have around the house, but most of the ingredients you need for mascara can be found at a drug store, beauty supply, and grocery store. [Edit]Making Charcoal Mascara - Gather your supplies. You will need several ingredients, plus a few tools to make this mascara recipe. Before you get started, you will need:[1]
- 1 teaspoon of vitamin E oil
- 1 teaspoon of coconut oil
- 1/2 teaspoon of beeswax
- 1 tablespoon of aloe vera gel
- 3 activated charcoal capsules
- 1/4 teaspoon of bentonite clay (optional)
- a small glass bowl
- some hot water
- a medium glass bowl
- a spoon
- Put vitamin E oil, coconut oil, and beeswax into the small bowl. Measure out one teaspoon of vitamin E oil, one teaspoon of coconut oil, and 1/2 teaspoon of beeswax and put them into your small glass bowl. Stir them together with your spoon.[2]
- Melt the ingredients. Fill the medium sized bowl about ¼ of the way full with hot or boiling water. Then take your small bowl and place it over the water so that it is nesting inside of the medium sized bowl. The small bowl should just float on top of the water. If the water level is too high, then pour some out.[3]
- Let the small bowl sit on top of the water until the ingredients in the small bowl have melted.
- Then, carefully remove the small bowl from the water. Be careful because the glass may get hot from the hot water.
- Add the aloe vera gel to the small bowl. Next, measure out three teaspoons of aloe vera gel and add the aloe vera to the bowl along with the ingredients. Then, use the spoon to mix the aloe vera in with the other ingredients until they are well combined.[4]
- To make a preservative-free mascara, use aloe vera gel straight from the plant, as bottled aloe often contains preservatives.[5]
- Break open the activated charcoal capsules over the bowl. Take your three activated charcoal capsules and break them open over the bowl one at a time. Then, mix the charcoal in with the other ingredients. Keep stirring until the mixture looks uniform. This may take a few minutes of vigorous stirring.[6]
- Be aware that activated charcoal is not an approved colorant for eye cosmetics.[7] If you are concerned about using activated charcoal, then you can replace the charcoal with equal quantities of an eye-safe black (or other color) mineral powder or mica.[8]
- Add 1/4 teaspoon of bentonite clay if desired. Bentonite clay is optional for this recipe, but it may help to prevent smudging. Coconut oil melts at 76 degrees Fahrenheit, so it is not ideal for warm weather. However, bentonite clay can help your mascara to dry faster and stay on your lashes.[9]
- If you decide to add the bentonite clay, then add 1/4 of a teaspoon to the mascara mixture and stir until the ingredients are well combined.
[Edit]Making Clay Mascara - Get your supplies. Making mascara out of clay is quick and only requires a few ingredients and tools. To make your own homemade mascara from clay, you will need:
- 5 teaspoons (25 g) clay (of your color choice)
- 1 ¾ teaspoon (10.5 ml) water
- 1/4 teaspoon (1.5 ml) vegetable glycerin
- 1 pinch guar gum
- a small bowl
- a spoon
- Stir together the clay and guar gum. Take a pinch of guar gum and put it into the bowl. The guar gum will act as a thickener and stabilizer for the mascara. Then, measure out five teaspoons of the clay of your choice. You can also mix the colors to create your own unique shade. The clay will provide the color, and will help the mascara to dry easily. Choose a clay that has the color you are looking for n a mascara. Popular clay choices include:[10]
- Bentonite clay mixed with cocoa powder for color (for more of a brown mascara)
- Australian red reef clay (for a reddish brown mascara)
- Australian black clay (for a black mascara)
- Add the water and glycerin. When you have mixed the two powders together, add in the liquid ingredients. Measure out 1 ¾ teaspoons of water and 1/4 teaspoon of vegetable glycerin. Stir the ingredients until they are well combined.
- If you're having trouble stirring the ingredients together, add more water in small increments, such as a drop or two at a time, until you get a thick, smooth liquid.
- It's important that you don't add too much water, or the mascara will be runny and you won't be able to apply it.[11]
- Make a new batch regularly. Since this mascara doesn't really have any preservatives, it's important that you replace it every four to six months. This will prevent bacteria from growing and spreading onto your lashes.
- Always wash and disinfect your mascara tube and wand before reuse.
- Don't use your mascara if it starts to smell. Get rid of it and make a new batch right away.
[Edit]Getting Mascara into the Tube - Clean and disinfect your mascara tube and brush. Before you transfer your mascara to the tube, make sure that the tube and brush are clean. If the tube and brush are new, ten you don't have to do anything. However, if you are reusing an old mascara tube and brush, you will need to wash the brush and tube thoroughly with warm water and some castile soap or baby shampoo.[12]
- Remove the plug from the top of the tube and place it in a small bowl of warm, soapy water.
- Apply soap to the bristles and use your fingers to work the soap into the brush bristles. Then, put some soap into the tube as well. Use the brush to move the soap around in the tube.
- Continue to add soap and rinse the tube and brush until the water runs clear and all of the suds have been rinsed away. Then, take the plug out of the bowl of water and rinse it as well.
- Use a syringe. One option for transferring mascara to a tube is to use an oral syringe. Oral syringes can be found in most pharmacies and drug stores, and they make excellent injectors for filling mascara tubes.
- When your mascara is ready, simply insert the nose of the syringe into the mixture, pull up the plunger to suck up the mascara, and then inject the mascara into the tube. Repeat until your tube is full, or until all the mascara is gone.
- Wash the syringe with soap and water immediately after you finish using it to prevent the mascara from caking on.
- Make a homemade icing bag for the mascara. You can also use a plastic bag similar to create an icing bag and use it to transfer the mascara to the tube.[13]
- Scoop your mascara mixture into a plastic bag, such as a resealable sandwich bag or a clean plastic bulk bag.
- Work the mixture to one of the bottom corners of the bag.
- Then, cut a small hole in the corner of the bag.
- Insert the corner into the top of the mascara tube and gently squeeze the bag to push the mascara into the tube.
- Pour in small dollops. Use tape to secure your mascara tube to a flat surface. With the end of a knife, scoop up a small amount of mascara. Dangle the knife vertically over the mascara tube hole and allow the dollop of mascara to drop into it.
- If necessary, use a toothpick to make an air bubble in the dollop of mascara so that it drains into the tube.
- Repeat until you have filled the tube.
- Reinsert the plug. When you have filled your mascara tube, replace the makeup plug before returning the wand to the tube. The plug disperses the makeup evenly and removes excess mascara from the wand as you pull it out of the tube.
- Store the mascara in a jar as an alternative. Instead of trying to fill a mascara tube, consider storing the mixture in a sealable, airtight container that you can still dip the mascara wand into.[14] To prevent mascara from drying onto the wand between uses, wash the wand with soap and water after every use.
- There are many recipes online that suggest mixing petroleum jelly with eyeshadow for a homemade mascara, but because petroleum jelly doesn't dry, the mascara will constantly rub off onto your skin, hands, and anything else you touch.
- Be aware that homemade mascara isn't waterproof.
- To prevent getting mascara on the back of your eyelid during application, put a piece of paper or business card behind your lashes.
- Don't get mascara in your eyes. If you do, flush them immediately with warm water.
- Always try to use the exact ingredients mentioned above, because substitutes for those ingredients may sometimes harm you and also may cause allergies. You should be very careful when using these ingredients, because you are applying mascara in your eyes!
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