| How to Wear a Beret Posted: 26 Jul 2018 05:00 PM PDT A beret (bare-ay) is a popular cold weather accessory that not only keeps your head warm, but looks great, too! You can style your beret a number of ways or stick to a classic look with a black beret. When choosing the color of your beret, you can match your coat or your hair. You can also pick a bright color to add interest to your outfit. Pair your berets with your clothing to create a pulled-together look. EditAdjusting and Styling Your Beret - Tuck the brim under the beret. Every beret has a brim that fits snug on your head and holds the beret in place. Tuck the brim up and under the excess fabric of the beret. Then puff out the fabric of the beret so it hides the edge of the beret. Tilt the beret to 1 side, with the front of the beret pulled down to your eyebrow.[1]
- Create volume with your beret. Keep the brim tight against your head, and tilt the beret slightly to one side. Then pull gently on the top of the beret so the fabric pulls away from your head. This should create space between the top of your head and the top of your beret, rather than it sitting flat against your head.[2]
- You can also smooth down the part of the beret that sits over your ear for a variation of this look.
- Pin the beret to the back of your head. Place the beret at the crown of your head and secure it with bobby pins around the brim. How many bobby pins you need will depend on how thick your hair is, but placing 1 every is a good place to start. Pull the fabric at the front of the beret very gently so that the beret shows just above the top of your hair.[3]
- Create more height in your beret by rolling up a silk scarf and stuffing it in the front of the beret. Then pin the beret on.
- Tilt the beret to one side. The trim of the beret should make about a 45-degree angle across your forehead. If you part your hair on the side of your head, tilt your beret in the opposite direction for contrast.[4]
- Straighten your hair if it will show under your beret. The classic beret look calls for straight hair hanging under your beret. It doesn't matter what length your hair is, as long as at least part of it peeks out from under the beret. Straighten your hair and then brush it out.[5]
- Use your curls to balance your beret. Having curly hair doesn't mean you can't wear a beret. Simply use your fingers to fluff out the curls on the side of your head opposite to the beret's tilt.[6]
- Avoid high hairstyles. High ponytails, buns, or braids can warp the shape of your beret. If you're planning on wearing one, avoid those hairstyles. Instead, opt for low ponytails and braids, or just wear your hair loose!
EditChoosing the Fabric of Your Beret - Choose a knit beret for a comfortable, casual look. Knit berets – whether made from wool or cotton – are super comfy. Because they also look very casual, you can pair 1 with your most casual looks. Choose a knit beret and style it your favorite way.[7]
- Use a leather beret for a modern twist. A leather – as opposed to knit – beret will make this classic style look more modern. Simply choose a leather (or faux leather) beret and style it the same way.[8]
- Select a cotton beret for everyday wear. If you want to incorporate a beret into your everyday outfit, pick one made from cotton. It will be casual enough for everyday wear, but not so casual that it clashes with whatever you're wearing.
- Pick a lined beret to wear in cold weather. Lined berets will have a thin layer of material inside of the hat. They'll keep your head warmer than an unlined beret, which makes them a perfect choice for cold weather.
- Choose an unlined beret to wear in warm weather. As the weather gets warmer, you can swap out your lined beret for one without lining. You'll be able to maintain your look without your head getting sweaty in the heat!
EditPairing an Outfit with Your Beret - Choose a camel beret with dark clothing. A black jacket or sweater paired with a camel-colored beret will create a great sense of contrast. This is an especially great look if you have light to medium brown hair.[9]
- Match your beret to your coat. Berets are usually a cold weather accessory, so you're likely to be wearing a coat along with your beret. Pull your look together by matching the color of your beret to the color of your coat. You can match colors exactly, or just use similar shades.[10]
- For example, you can pair a bright red beret and coat together. Or you can pair a blue coat with blue beret in a lighter shade.
- Wear a brightly colored beret for a pop of color. An unexpected bright, bold color can add just the right amount of pop to an outfit. You'll get the most impact if you pair a bright beret with muted, neutral tones, but you pair your bold beret with similar colors in your clothing.[11]
- For example, if you're wearing an all-black or neutral outfit, add a bright red beret.
- Match your beret to your hair color. If you're planning on wearing your beret regularly, matching it your hair color ensures that it always looks coordinated. Blondes should choose white or beige berets, brunettes should choose brown berets, and anyone with black hair should choose black berets.
- Wear a beret with a feminine outfit. Matching the beret with a feminine look makes the beret itself look more feminine. You can match the color of your beret to your outfit, or use contrasting colors.[12]
- For example, you can pair your beret with a billowy dress and flats, or a delicate blouse and heels.
- Pair a beret with an oversized sweater. The slouchiness of a beret matches an oversized sweater well. Pair them with slim pants and flats shoes to balance your outfit.[13]
- For example, you can pair a cream-colored beret with a an oversized cream-colored sweat and black skinny jeans or leggings.
- If you have to wear a beret as part of a uniform, make sure you follow the directions for wearing it. You might need a specific shape or angle to go with your uniform.
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
| How to Start a Saltwater Aquarium Posted: 26 Jul 2018 09:00 AM PDT Taking care of a saltwater aquarium is a fun and fulfilling hobby for anyone who loves marine life! You'll start by choosing fish and a sturdy tank, then create your own saltwater to your fishes' specific needs and get them used to their new environment. Although starting your aquarium can be expensive, the time and financial investment will be worth it when you've created a happy, healthy mini-ecosystem. EditChoosing a Tank, Fish, and Extra Features - Decide what fish you want before buying your tank. You won't buy your fish until your tank is fully set up, but choosing your fish beforehand ensures that you buy the right tank size and accessories. You'll also decide how many fish you want, whether you want coral or not, and what special parameters you'll need to set up.[1]
- Saltwater aquariums can get expensive, so choosing your tank inhabitants beforehand will prevent you from wasting money on an incorrect tank or features.
- Choose fish that are hardy and peaceful if you're a beginner. When you're just starting, it's best to choose fish that are tolerant of a fluctuating environment, resistant to parasites, and non-aggressive. You'll also want fish that are vibrant and fun to look at—and within your budget! You can ask the employees at your local pet store for recommendations. Some species to consider include:[2]
- Clownfish
- Cardinalfish
- Firefish
- Royal Grammas
- Swissguard Basslets
- Avoid common saltwater fish that are too sensitive or aggressive. Some species of saltwater fish are often recommended for beginner tanks, but you should purchase them with care. Avoid any fish that are picky eaters, classified as aggressive or semi-aggressive, or are sensitive to environment fluctuation. Fish to avoid include:[3]
- Mandarinfish, which are picky eaters
- Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse, which are picky eaters
- Groupers, which are very aggressive
- Damselfish, which are aggressive and territorial
- Mollies and guppies
- Choose a short, wide tank. Tanks that are short and wide, as opposed to tall, allow good oxygen flow within the water, better light penetration, and easier cleaning. Your fish will enjoy the extra horizontal swimming space, and you can get more creative with your aquascaping to give them more nooks and niches to explore.[4]
- If you have to go with a tall, narrow tank for space reasons, use powerful circulation tools to move water throughout the tank and encourage oxygenation.
- Buy a tank large enough for your fully-grown fish. Look online to figure out how large your fish species will grow in captivity. Then, add up the length and width measurements of your tank and divide them by the fish's size. The answer should be greater than 4, but larger than 6 is preferable.[5]
- For example, if your fish grows to be in captivity and your tank is long, you'd divide by to get 5.1. This tank would be big enough.
- As a rule of thumb for how many fish your saltwater aquarium can hold, estimate that you can have of fish for every square foot (0.3 m) of surface area.
- Go for a bigger tank when you're in doubt. A larger tank gives you a greater margin of error in case you make a mistake—there will be more water to dilute possible pollutants, for example. You'll also have fewer fish interaction problems and a more stable overall system.[6]
- You'll have room for more aquascaping as well, with additions like rocks and plants.
- Many aquarium owners who start off with a small tank will soon upgrade to a larger one, resulting in more set-up work and financial investment.
- Buy a submersible heater of 3-5 watts per gallon. This should be a minimum size—for a larger tank, you may want a bigger heater. When you place it in the tank, you'll want to keep the water at , depending on your fish.[7]
- Saltwater fish are very sensitive to temperature change, so it's important to keep your tank's water at a constant temperature.
- Purchase a filter to keep your water clean. Look for a filtration system made for saltwater aquariums. Ask a salesperson what size you should get for your chosen tank, and purchase in a store or online for convenience.
- Don't set up your filter just yet. You'll install it once you've filled your tank.
- Filters can also be called powerheads.
- Choose aquarium lighting that's suitable for your saltwater fish. Buy an aquarium lighting system in a pet store or online and set it to illuminate your aquarium for 8-10 hours a day. Look up what light spectrum you'll need for your desired fish, or ask a pet store employee for a recommendation.[8]
- Many aquarium lights come with built in timers to turn on and off automatically.
EditSetting Up Your Saltwater Tank - Choose a large, level area to place your saltwater tank. Find a smooth, firm, level surface to place your tank, such as a steady table. Look over the floor surface as well and make sure that your tank won't wobble when you touch it or walk by.[9]
- Splashes of saltwater are bound to hit the surrounding floor and table, so place down towels or move important items out of the way.
- Tank water will also evaporate a bit, driving up humidity in the surrounding area. Consider moving nearby furnishings or artwork so they're not damaged.
- Make sure your floor can bear the weight of your tank. This is especially important if you live in an apartment or on the second story of a building. Try to set up your tank near a load-bearing wall, perpendicular to your floor joists.[10]
- Weigh your tank and tank stand and add about for every gallon of water that the tank holds to get the full weight of your aquarium system.
- Ask your landlord, look at your housing plans, or consult a structural engineer if you're not sure that your floor can bear the weight.
- If necessary, you can reinforce the floor from underneath to prevent sagging and cracking.
- Set your tank near an outlet. You'll need to plug in your tank's lights, heater and filter. If possible, you may also want to keep your tank near a sink and drain in case you have to quickly fill or empty your tank.[11]
- If you don't have enough wall outlets for your equipment, you can use a power strip.
- Keep your tank away from heat sources. Make sure your aquarium is out of direct sunlight and away from air conditioners, heat vents, and doors to the outside. These can make the water temperature fluctuate and lead to algae issues on your tank walls.[12]
- Set the tank at least away from the wall. You'll need to attach external features, such as a filter and protein skimmer, to the back of your aquarium. Leave some open space behind it to accommodate.[13]
- Some features may also be attached below the tank and under the tank stand. Check the directions beforehand to see where to place yours.
EditAdding Saltwater and Substrate - Clean your empty tank with a cloth and freshwater before you add anything. Dip a clean cloth in warm freshwater and scrub it over the inside of the tank. This will remove any dust or dirt that has seeped into the tank while on display or at the manufacturer.[14]
- Don't use chemical cleaners on your aquarium. They can leach into your water and harm your fish.
- Pour in of live sand. Live sand has bacteria and tiny invertebrates in it, which help to naturally filter water and make the aquarium a more hospitable environment for your fish. Live sand also looks just like regular sand, adding a natural look to your aquarium.[15]
- You can buy live sand online or at your local pet store.
- Use pre-mixed saltwater for a simpler set-up process. You can buy pre-mixed saltwater mixtures online or in most large pet stores. These solutions are ready to be poured straight into your aquarium, with no other mixing and prepping required.[16]
- Make sure to read the directions before you use the saltwater.
- Check your tank's volume and buy enough saltwater to fill it up completely.
- Create saltwater with a synthetic sea salt mix for a cheaper set-up. Most saltwater aquarium owners choose to make their own saltwater by adding a mix to filtered tap water. You can buy saltwater aquarium mix online or in pet stores for a cheap price, and save it to use again when you need to replenish your tank.[17]
- Consult the directions before you start setting up your tank to make sure you don't have to take extra steps for your brand.
- Fill the tank a third of the way and check for leaks. Run your hands along the outside edges of the tank and look carefully at the area around it. If you don't see or feel any water, you can continue filling up the tank slowly.[18]
- Set a small bowl in the tank and pour the water directly into it, instead of onto the sand, to keep your sand in place.
- You may want to pour in sink water from a bucket, rather than holding your tank under the sink or filling with a hose.
- If you do feel a leak, dump out the sand and water and return the tank.
- Pour in a water conditioner to filter out metals and chlorine. Water conditioner is a specially formulated liquid designed to remove heavy metals, chlorine, and/or chloramine from your sink water, making it safe for your fish. You can add the conditioner after you've poured your water into the tank. If you're using a bucket, mix it there beforehand.[19]
- Read the package instructions before you use your conditioner.
- Buy a water conditioner at a pet store, or search for one to buy online.
- Add small amounts of salt mix until you get to the right specific gravity. Check the directions on your packet for a salt mix per gallon specification. Start stirring in your salt mix bit by bit. Use a hydrometer or refractometer to measure your tank's specific gravity, which is an indirect measurement of its saltiness.[20]
- For a fish-only tank, you should aim for a specific gravity level of 1.017-1.021.
- Hydrometers are small, plastic measuring devices that you can buy online or in a pet store. To use, dip the hydrometer in the tank for a water sample and take a reading from the marker.
- If your specific gravity is too low, add a bit more salt. If it's too high, dump out a bit of water and replace it with filtered fresh water.
- Place your powerhead filter and heater in to start circulation. Once you've reached the right specific gravity, follow the directions on your powerhead, or filter, to place it on the side of the tank. Slip your submersible heater in as well. Plug in both devices to start circulation and heating.[21]
- If possible, place the powerhead so that it makes a bit of turbulence on the water's surface. This encourages the best possible gas exchange.
- Let the saltwater circulate and heat for 24-48 hours. Your water is almost ready! Let the tank sit for 1-2 days, giving the salt time to dissolve and letting heater get the tank to your desired temperature. After a day or so, test the specific gravity again to make sure it's still at the right level.[22]
- Add more salt mix or freshwater to adjust the specific gravity.
- Check the temperature as well, turning the heater up or down as needed.
- Add cured live rock to "cycle" the tank. Place of cured live rock into your tank for every gallon (3.8 L) of water. This kind of rock is the best natural way to "cycle" your aquarium, or create a bio-filtration system. Cured live rocks introduce good bacteria to convert ammonia, which will be produced by your fishes' waste and respiration, into less harmful compounds.[23]
- Look for cured live rock online and in pet stores.
- The rocks also function as an ammonia source for bacteria to work on. Their porous surfaces, meanwhile, give this bacteria a great home to grow in.
- Test your aquarium's ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels with test kits. While your aquarium is cycling with the cured live rock, all you need to do is keep an eye on its progress with ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kits. Test your tank at least once a day.Your tank is done cycling when nitrate is present and the ammonia and nitrate levels are too small to be measured.[24]
- Buy good test kits online or in home improvement stores.
- Throughout the course of the cycle, you'll see the ammonia and nitrite levels increase and then drop down, along with an increase in nitrates.
- Add saltwater rocks and features to decorate your tank. If you want to decorate your tank any more, now is the time! Place rocks, fake plants, or any other features that you want to add. Make sure they're safe for saltwater environments.
- Clean off any new features with a clean cloth and warm freshwater beforehand.
EditBuying and Acclimatizing Your Fish - Purchase your fish in-store so you can check their health. If you buy in-person, make sure your fish and its tankmates are healthy—if its tankmates are sick, there's a good chance your fish will be too. Ask the salesperson to feed the fish and make sure it responds normally to the food. Some physical and behavioral issues to look out for include:[25]
- Very damaged, missing, or clamped fins
- Cloudy or bulging eyes
- Visible injuries or ulcers on the body
- Mucus
- An emaciated or bloated body
- Faded coloration
- Twitching or trembling
- Erratic swimming or hitting objects in the tank
- Rapid respiration
- Behavior that's out of character for the species, like a typically shy species seeming outgoing
- Buy your saltwater fish online for convenience and a greater selection. If you don't have a good fish store near you, buying your fish online might be your best option. Make sure to only purchase from reputable sites. Look at their shipping specifications and check for customer reviews and verifications to ensure it's a good site.[26]
- One of the main drawbacks of buying online is that you can't see the fish in-person beforehand. If possible, ask to see the fish via photo or video call to judge its condition.
- Set a clear container below the tank to be the "acclimation container." Once you've bought your fish, it's time to acclimatize it and transfer it to the tank! Place a clean, clear container below your tank, such as on the ground or a lower table. The container should be large enough to hold your fish comfortably.[27]
- Acclimatizing is the process of getting your fish used to its new environment, including a new water pH and temperature.
- If you've bought a few fish, it's best to add them one at a time, starting with the least aggressive.
- Place airline tubing between the acclimation container and tank. Stretch a several feet of flexible airline tubing between the tank and the acclimation container. Tie 2-3 loose knots along the tubing and place the tank end below the water's surface.[28]
- Wedge the tubing between the rim and cover to keep it in place.
- You can buy airline tubing at home improvement stores and online.
- If you have a flow-control valve or clamp to fit your tubing, you can attach it to the acclimation-container end of the tubing. If you use a valve, you don't have to tie knots in the tubing.
- Pour the fish and water into the container and start the water flow. Place the tank end of your tubing into the output end of your powerhead. Tighten or loosen your knots as needed to bring the flow down, so that 2-3 drips per second are falling into the acclimation container.[29]
- You can also adjust the flow by using your flow-control valve.
- Don't pour extra freshwater or saltwater into the acclimation container. Pour the fish in with just its shipping water.
- Drape a towel over the acclimation container to keep the fish calm. The fish will probably be nervous and scared, and may even try to jump out of the container. Draping a towel or cloth over the container will lessen the stimulation and give it time to get used to its new surroundings.[30]
- Let the water drip until there's twice as much water in the container. Keep an eye on the water in the acclimation container. Once it's doubled in volume, use a clean bowl or turkey baster to remove about half of the water. Put the tubing back in place and start the dripping once more.[31]
- Depending on how big your acclimation container is, this might take an hour or more. Be patient—proper acclimation is essential to the health of your new fish.
- Test the water once it's doubled again. Once your water level is back up, use test kits to check the amount of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, specific gravity, and temperature in the acclimation container's water. If they're identical to the aquarium's water parameters, it's time to transfer your fish![32]
- If the acclimation container's water parameters don't match the aquarium's, continue your cycle of dripping, removing water, and testing until they do.
- Move the fish into the tank with a net. Carefully scoop up your fish with a clean fish net and slide it into your aquarium. You can also pour the fish into the tank with its water, especially if your aquarium water needs to be replenished after dripping through the tube.
EditTaking Care of Your Saltwater Aquarium - Feed your fish the appropriate food several times a day. Do some research into what kinds of food you should feed your fish—some may be fine with a mix of pellets, while others might prefer fresh food from a seafood market. Try to feed them several small servings a day rather than 1-2 large feedings, as this keeps them more satisfied.[33]
- Buy food at your pet store or at seafood markets. Make sure any non-pellet food you give your fish are from saltwater habitats, not freshwater.
- Watch your fish when they feed. They should eat quickly and finish every bite! If you see a fish not eating, talk to your veterinarian.
- Give your fish a different kind of food every few days to ensure they're getting the right nutrients and staying satisfied.
- Set up a protein skimmer and empty its collection cup every day. A protein skimmer collects dissolved organic compounds, like waste, filtering them out of the water to keep it clean and clear. Set yours up according to the package instructions and empty it daily to keep it working well.[34]
- To empty the protein skimmer, simply remove the collection cup, empty it in the sink, and rinse it clean.
- You can buy a protein skimmer wherever fish aquarium products are sold, in pet stores, and online.
- Protein skimmers can attach below the tank, on the rim, or inside the tank.
- Replenish evaporated saltwater with purified freshwater every day. Although water will eventually evaporate from your aquarium, the salt will be left behind. To return your water level to normal, simply add purified freshwater to the tank.[35]
- Don't add new saltwater after evaporation. This will alter the specific gravity of your system.
- Clean the algae off the tank every day. Use an algae magnet, brush, or scraper to clean the algae film off of your aquarium glass every day. If the algae builds up at a slower rate, you can switch to every other day, or even weekly.[36]
- Test water parameters, change water, and do deeper cleaning weekly. Along with a few quick everyday tasks, there are a few things you can do on a weekly or bi-weekly basis to keep your tank clean and pleasant for your fish. These include:[37]
- Testing the specific gravity, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and alkalinity of the water.
- Clean the salt off your aquarium cover, power cords, and the edges of the tank.
- Mix up new saltwater and change about 10% of the aquarium water.
- Clean the neck of your protein skimmer.
- Wash tank parts every month or two. Do a more thorough cleaning of the important features in your tank every month or so. Incorporate these tasks into your monthly routine:[38]
- Dampen a paper towel with white vinegar to clean calcium deposits from your tank cover and light fixture cover.
- Take apart your protein skimmer and carefully clean all its parts.
- Soak your powerhead, heater, and any other submerged features in a 1:1 solution of water and white vinegar.
- Replace the bulbs in your lighting according to package instructions. Check the manual to your lighting system to see when it's recommended to change your bulbs. If you have LED bulbs, you likely won't have to change them for at least a few years.[39]
- You can also add coral to your saltwater aquarium! However, this requires extra care and keeping, so it's be best to start with a fish-only tank first.
EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
| How to Shoot an Arrow Posted: 26 Jul 2018 01:00 AM PDT Archery has been around for thousands of years and remains a fun, challenging activity to this day. Whether you're doing it for sport, competition, or food, knowing how to properly load, aim, and fire your bow will make the difference between a whiffed shot and a bullseye. EditShooting a Drawstring Bow - Line your body up perpendicular to the target. When you're ready to shoot, line yourself up so that, if you drew an imaginary line from yourself to the target, the line would go across your feet. If you are right eye dominant, hold the bow with your left hand, point your left shoulder to the target, and handle the arrow and string with your right hand. If you are left eye dominant, do the reverse.
- Stand upright and place your feet shoulder-width apart. Pinch your buttocks together to bring your pelvis forward. Keep your back erect so that, when you pull the string, your arms and shoulders form a "T" shape. Your stance should be comfortable enough to hold for long periods of time, but also firm and alert.[1]
- Point your bow down and attach an arrow to the string. Point your bow toward the ground and place the shaft of an arrow on the arrow rest. Attach the back of the arrow to the bow string via the small plastic component with a groove in it, called the nock. If the arrow has 3 vanes, or fletching feathers, orient the arrow so that a single vane points away from the bow. Then, place the arrow below the nock bead or, if there are 2 beads, in between them.[2]
- Use 3 fingers to lightly hold the arrow on the string. If you're shooting with a sight, place your index finger above the arrow and your middle and ring fingers below. This is called the Mediterranean draw or "split finger" style. If you're shooting without a sight, place all 3 fingers below the arrow, which will bring the arrow closer to your eye. Use your thumb to support the back of the arrow and keep it straight.[3]
- Point your bow toward the target. With your fingers on the drawstring, raise your bow and hold it out toward the target. Your inner elbow should be parallel to the ground and the bow should always remain vertical. When held properly, you should be able to look straight down the spine of the arrow.[4]
- Use 3 fingers to pull the bow's drawstring back toward your face. Use your back muscles for strength and let your arm stay as relaxed as possible. Keep pulling until the bow feels tight, then use your chin, ear, or another body part as a reference point, that way you can draw the string back to the same spot each time.[5]
- Try to draw the string as far back as possible. This increases accuracy and dampens the effect of wind and gravity.
- When you pull back the string, lift your elbow up. This makes your shoulder muscles work instead of your arm muscles.
- Aim at your target. Most casual archers will use a technique known as instinctive shooting. In this method, simply point your bow so that the tip of the arrow lines up with your target. If you want to fine-tune your aim, try purchasing an adjustable sight that attaches to the front of your bow. When shooting, you can either close your non-dominant eye or keep both eyes open.[6]
- Release the arrow by relaxing the fingers on your string hand. The goal is to get a clean release, meaning the bow leaves your fingers with as little slowdown and interference as possible. While this may sound simple, the manner in which you release your fingers from the bowstring can impact the arrow's flight, and any unintended flinches or wobbles can knock it off course. After releasing the arrow, wait until it hits the target to lower the bow.[7]
- Do not move your hand forward to "boost" the arrow while you shoot. Remain still for the best shot possible.
- Pay attention to the bow's recoil or follow through, as it may indicate problems with your form.
EditFiring a Crossbow - Pull or crank the string to cock the bow. If you're using a manual crossbow, place your foot into the stirrup located at the front of the bow, then pull the string toward the back of the device until it cocks. Make sure to keep the string as even as possible. For crank crossbows, attach your crank to the device if necessary, then simply turn the crank until the bow cocks.[8]
- Load the crossbow with an arrow. After cocking the bow, place a crossbow bolt or arrow into the barrel of the device and line the cock vane up with the barrel channel. For safety, load the arrow from the top of the device, keeping your hand away from the main chamber and the front of the bow at all times.[9]
- Bring the bow to your shoulder. Similar to a rifle, bring the crossbow up to your dominant shoulder and either push it into the pocket of your shoulder or let it sit on top of your shoulder. Then, place your non-dominant hand below the crossbow to steady it, making sure to keep your fingers away from the main chamber. Do not freehand your crossbow as it can lead to inaccurate and dangerous shots.[10]
- Freehanding is when someone holds their crossbow in 1 hand and attempts to shoot it.
- Aim your shot using the bow's sight pin or scope. If your crossbow has a scope, peer through it and line the aiming reticles up with your target. Make sure to check your scope's user manual so you know what each reticle means. If your device does not have a specialty scope, line up your shot using the crossbow's peep sight or other alignment device.[11]
- Fire your crossbow. When you're ready to shoot, hold your crossbow steady and double check your scope or sight. Then, pull the trigger like you would on a gun. When the arrow releases, you'll hear a slight pop from the trigger.[12]
EditGearing Up - Determine your dominant eye. With archery, eye dominance is more important than hand-dominance because your dominant eye is what will handle aiming and judging distances. To figure out which of your eyes is dominant, point your finger toward a distant wall or object and close 1 of your eyes. If your finger appears to jump, you closed your dominant eye.[13]
- Buy a bow that matches your dominant eye. Most archery equipment is labeled as "right-handed" or "left-handed" in reference to which hand pulls back the bowstring. If your dominant eye does not line up with your dominant hand, purchase equipment for your weaker hand. Though it may take your hands some time to adjust, picking gear based on your eyes will boost your precision.[14]
- Typically, you can use crossbows in either hand.
- Choose arrows to go with your bow. For crossbows, look for bolts that adhere to the length, density, and nock recommendations given by your bow's manufacturer. When dealing with drawstring bows, purchase arrows that are about longer than your draw length. If possible, purchase high-quality arrows made from carbon fiber, aluminium, fiberglass, or wood.[15]
- If you're planning to shoot targets, get arrows with field point heads. If you're going hunting, use broadhead or blunt tips instead. Judo points are also used. They have small clasps that grip onto the prey after you shoot it.
- To find your draw length, pull back your bow as if you were going to shoot it. Then, have a friend measure the distance between the front of the bow and the back of the string.
- Purchase protective gear. Certain pieces of equipment are essential for ensuring both a safe and enjoyable shooting experience. Some items to consider buying include an arm-guard to cover you bow arm and protect it from bowstring slaps, a plastic chest protector to prevent string burn along your chest, gloves or a finger tab to protect your hands from string injuries, and a quiver to hold your arrows.[16]
- The finger tab/glove is the most important. Without it, you can get permanent nerve damage even on a 20 lb. bow. Trying to tough it out is not a good option even if you have developed callouses by playing guitar or something else.
- Buy targets and other practice equipment. For archery, the best way to practice is with a personal target. These come in a variety of forms including bag targets, which work well for simple point heads, foam targets, which can handle notch and broadheads, and 3D targets, which look like wild animals, zombies, and other creatures. Along with targets, consider buying things like:
- Strength training bars
- Release trainers
- Practice bows
- Try doing push ups, pull ups, and other arm strengthening exercises before you shoot. This will make it easier to hold the bow.
- Seeing a coach and getting instruction is the best way to learn as you will always have a form fault that is hard to spot for you and can be easily corrected when someone else watches you.
- Do not pull back and release the bowstring without an arrow as "dry firing" can create micro-fractures in the bow.
- Never aim at something you don't intend to shoot.
- Have a backstop at all times to your target in case you miss.
EditRelated wikiHows
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
No comments:
Post a Comment