| How to Walk Down the Aisle Posted: 31 May 2018 05:00 PM PDT The walk down the aisle is one of the most beautiful and exciting moments of your big day, but it can seem daunting. If you're worried about tripping or messing up your walk, you can ease your fears by practicing the walk ahead of time. With a little effort, your trip down the aisle will look absolutely flawless! EditWalking as a Bride - Practice walking down the aisle before the big day. The easiest way to calm your pre-wedding jitters is by practicing your walk. Set up a pretend aisle in a hallway and put on your processional music to perfect your pace and posture![1]
- It's okay if your practice aisle is a little shorter than your normal aisle. The important part is making sure that you're balanced and confident as you're walking!
- Walk around in your heels, if you're wearing them down the aisle. It's important to break in your heels before the wedding and make sure that you're comfortable in them. Put them on while you're walking around the house, and make sure you're taking small steps and are able to maintain good posture while walking.
- Be sure to practice going up and down stairs, which you may have to do to get to the location of the ceremony.
- If your wedding is outdoors, practice walking in your shoes on various surfaces. Be careful not to get them dirty, though!
- If you're having trouble with walking in your heels, bring a backup pair with a shorter heel for the day of the wedding.
- Stand up as straight as possible to show your confidence. As you're preparing to walk down the aisle, put your shoulders back and take a few deep breaths to loosen up. Raise your chin to avoid looking at the ground when you walk and to appear confident.[2]
- You can practice your good posture in the mirror before the wedding to make sure you don't look stiff.
- Hold your bouquet slightly lower than what feels natural. Many brides want to hold their bouquet close to their chest, but that can be very unflattering and make your walk more difficult. Place your hands at waist level, creating a diamond shape between your arms and your body.[3]
- Your elbows should be directly parallel to the thinnest part of your waist to achieve the perfect look.
- Have your escort link their arm into yours. Traditionally, the bride will position herself on the escort's arm. However, since you're holding your bouquet, have your escort wrap their arm around yours once you've positioned yourself. It'll be more comfortable for you while you're walking.[4]
- If there's a big height difference between you and your escort, you might ask them to wrap their arm around your back, instead of linking arms. This is more comfortable but is still endearing and provides support as you walk.
- Don't be afraid to lean on your escort slightly if you need some support! That's what they're there for.
- Walk at a pace just slightly slower than what's normal for you. You might think you have to do the "step-together-step-together" traditional bridal walk. Luckily, most brides choose to walk like normal, albeit slightly slower than their regular pace. You can even choose to use the beat of your processional music to set the rhythm for your walk.[5]
- Even if your music is extremely slow, try to walk at a medium pace. That way, you can enjoy the beautiful moment, but you aren't stalling the ceremony.
- Use the hem of your dress to prevent tripping. As you're walking, make sure that your dress hem touches the top of your foot after each step. This will ensure that you don't step on your dress. If you don't feel the hem of the dress on your foot, it's possible that you're stepping on it, but don't panic! Just pause for a moment and use your foot to move the dress forward.[6]
- You can work with your seamstress to make sure that the hem of your dress falls at the right length for walking.
- If your dress is extra long, consider holding it up slightly in one of your hands while you walk. This gives a very "princess" look as you're making your way to the altar!
- Smile and acknowledge your guests as you make your way down the aisle. It can be uncomfortable to have everyone looking at you and potentially taking pictures. Don't be afraid to smile and make eye contact with your friends and family while you walk. After all, they're here to see you![7]
- Smiling is also a great way to prevent yourself from crying before you get to the altar. If you're an emotional person, try to avoid looking at people who are already crying. Your emotions will be running high, but remember this is a very happy moment!
- Thank your escort at the end of the aisle. Your escort will likely be someone who is extremely close to you. When you get to the end of the aisle, turn to them and hug them before continuing to the altar. They deserve a special moment for supporting and helping you through your walk.[8]
- Some brides have two escorts, which is completely normal, especially in the US. In that case, turn to each of them individually at the end of the aisle and thank them with a hug or kiss.
EditOrganizing Your Processional - Lead the processional with the mother of the bride. Traditionally, the mother of the bride will kick off the wedding by walking down the aisle and taking her seat in the front row. Sometimes, the parents of the other partner will join her when walking down the aisle.[9]
- If the mother of the bride is escorting the bride down the aisle or won't be at the wedding, you can start the processional with the parents of the other partner, the grandparents of the couple, or the officiant of the wedding.
- Pair members of the wedding party together to walk down the aisle. Many couples choose to have their wedding party walk down the aisle in pairs. This saves time and works well especially if there's an even number of people. It's best to pair couples up based on height to avoid large height disparities that can make walking together difficult.[10]
- The maid of honor and best man are normally the last pairing of the wedding party to walk down the aisle.
- Have your partner walk out any time before you. Your partner can choose to walk down the aisle or enter the room from a side door to take their place at the altar. They can choose to come out at any point in the processional, as long as it's before you make your way down the aisle.[11]
- Often, the officiant of the wedding and your partner will enter together and walk to the altar.
- Position the flower girl and ring bearer just before the bride. To signify the end of the procession and the arrival of the bride, send the flower girl and ring bearer out just before the bride. The adorable kids will entertain the wedding-goers as the bride prepares herself for the walk down the aisle.[12]
- Usually, the flower girl is the last one to walk before the bride, and she throws flower petals to line the aisle for the bride!
- If the ring bearer is too young to be trusted with the real rings, you can give him decoys to deliver to the groom at the altar.
- Be careful when walking, but don't overthink it! Your guests will be able to tell if you're anxious or scared of falling.
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| How to Pick a Cockatiel Posted: 31 May 2018 09:00 AM PDT Cockatiels make great pets for dedicated animal lovers because they are easy to handle and train. However, picking the right cockatiel is important if you want a healthy pet. Start by finding a reputable, knowledgeable seller with a clean shop. The ideal age to adopt a cockatiel is 12 weeks old, but make sure the bird has been fully weaned first. Healthy cockatiels will have bright eyes and thick, smooth feathers. If you want a cockatiel with unique coloring, look into the Lutino and Cinnamon varieties! EditFinding a Reputable Seller - Contact an avian veterinarian or local bird club for solid references. Avian vets and local bird clubs can often tell you about the best bird breeders and pet shops in your area. Run an online search to get their contact information, then get in touch by calling or emailing them.[1]
- Try using search terms like "avian vets in Austin" or "local birds clubs + your zip code" to find good reference sources.
- You can also get in touch with the National Cockatiel Society for helpful information by visiting https://www.ncscockatiels.org/.[2]
- Research local pet shops and breeders to do your own investigating. Start by running an internet search on the pet shops and bird breeders in your area. Look for sellers with professional looking websites featuring clear images of the birds and shop interior. Check that the shop interior looks clean and well-lit.[3]
- For example, you could use search terms like, "best bird breeders in Boston" or "cockatiel sellers in Fresno."
- Check out customer reviews to get more insight about the seller you're researching.
- Make sure the shop looks clean and the birds are well-groomed. Once you've chosen a location, visit the site in person. Take a look around the shop to see if everything is clean and tidy. Do the birds look happy and well-groomed? Are the cages brightly lit and well-maintained? Do the birds have plenty of room to move around?[4]
- If the bird cages are dirty or cramped, or if there's a bad odor coming from the cages, look elsewhere for your new pet. If the birds themselves look ragged or have bald spots, try a different shop.
- Examine the droppings at the bottom of the bird cages. If they look discolored or runny, it could be a sign that the birds are sick.
- Cockatiels kept in overcrowded and dirty conditions are more susceptible to disease.
- Gauge how knowledgeable the shop owner is by asking questions. Find out what the birds are being fed and inquire about worming and other health issues. Ask about the ages and temperaments of the available birds. Solid, knowledgeable breeders and shop owners should be able to give you some information about each cockatiel's temperament.[5]
- Find out if the pet shop isolates their baby cockatiels from the public. This is important because babies have extremely weak immune systems.
- Ask specific questions like, "What brand of pellets do you feed the birds? Have you introduced them to a variety of foods? Have the young birds been socialized? Which ones have the friendliest temperament?"[6]
- Avoid purchasing cockatiels from a bird mart or bird fair. Cockatiels sold at crowded bird marts and bird fairs are exposed to many other birds every week. Cockatiels in these environments are often weak, sick, or diseased. It's not unusual for them to die a week or 2 after bringing them home.[7]
- Stick to reputable pet shops and bird breeders to find the healthiest, strongest pet cockatiel.
EditSelecting a Healthy Bird - Get a fully weaned young bird that's about 12 weeks old. Cockatiels are usually weaned by the time they're 10 weeks old, but they need a week or 2 to adjust after that happens. Weaned cockatiels are easiest to train when they're about 12 weeks old. If you hear a young cockatiel making a screeching sound and you don't see it eating on its own, it probably isn't fully weaned.[8]
- Ask the breeder or shop owner if the bird eats and drinks independently.
- Choose a young bird that has been hand-fed and socialized. Birds that have been hand-fed are usually the best options because they'll be quite tame already and they won't be afraid of humans. Ask the breeder how the birds are fed and if they've been socialized yet.[9]
- Avoid parent-fed cockatiels that haven't been socialized. These birds will probably be afraid of people and you'll have to tame the bird yourself, which isn't easy.[10]
- Confirm that the young birds weren't subject to inbreeding. Unfortunately, inbreeding can be an issue with cockatiels. Ask the shop owner or breeder about the bird's parents. Cockatiels that have been inbred are very likely to have genetic weaknesses and physical problems.[11]
- Look for feathers that are thick, glossy, and smooth. Be sure to check under the bird's wings and the belly, too. Keep an eye out for bald patches, which indicate poor nutrition or sickness. Feathers with ragged edges are not a good sign. If the tips of the feathers look ragged and blackened, the cockatiel is either stressed or sick.[12]
- The feathers should look clean and unstained by droppings. Look under the tail at the bird's vent area, too.
- Check for bright eyes and a smooth beak. Inspect the bird's tiny eyes and make sure there's no redness or discharge. The eyes will be almost black and should look bright and clear. Check the nose for discharge and blockages. Confirm that the beak has a smooth surface without growths or rough spots. Look closely and make sure the beak opens and closes evenly.[13]
- Avoid birds with red, puffy eyes.
- The bird's face should not look sticky in any way.
- Choose a cockatiel that is alert and upright. Find a bird that is moving around actively and looks lively. Do not pick a bird that looks lazy or sleepy. Avoid birds that are sleeping on the bottom of the cage or in a corner. These are red flags that the bird is sick. Avoid birds that look puffed up and have their eyes closed. Check that the bird is steady—trembling is not a good sign.[14]
- Some young birds tremble when they're nervous, but usually trembling indicates some kind of illness.
- Ask for a list of vaccinations and request a written receipt. The store owner should be able to provide you with a list of recent vaccinations against things like the polyomavirus, or they should give you health records of some kind for your chosen bird.[15] It's also a good idea to find out if there's a return policy and get the related details. Obtain a written receipt for your purchase, just in case.[16]
- Some shops may provide you with a 2-week guarantee of the bird's health, or some other form of health guarantee. Ask the owner or breeder for more information
EditChoosing a Color Variety - Go with the classic, gray-feathered cockatiel for the most affordable option. The classic cockatiel has mostly gray feathers on its body, with patches of white here and there. It also has a vibrant yellow crest on its head and tiny orange patches on its cheeks. These are typically the most affordable options, whereas some of the rarer cockatiels with color mutations will be more expensive.[17]
- Classic gray cockatiels are usually the hardiest and most healthy options!
- Go for a Lutino if you want a white or yellow cockatiel. Lutinos retain the classic orange patches on the cheeks, but its feathers are all white with a slightly yellowish cast. Lutinos have black eyes, just like the classic gray varieties.[18]
- Lutinos are often born with a genetic bald spot that they'll retain their whole lives.
- Lutinos are known to experience night fright and may be prone to fatty liver syndrome.
- Get an albino cockatiel for a unique-looking bird. Albino cockatiels are covered in completely white feathers and have red eyes. They look really neat, but keep in mind that albinos tend to be a little weaker than the classic gray cockatiels, so your bird may be more susceptible to illness and early death.[19]
- If you get multiple albino birds, don't breed 2 albinos together. The resulting babies will be born weak and they won't be hardy or healthy pets.
- Get a Cinnamon variety for a brownish-red bird. Cinnamon cockatiels are very similar to the classic grays, but instead of having mostly gray feathers, Cinnamons have pretty, brownish-red feathers. All of the other physical characteristics are the same as the classic grays, including the yellow crest, black eyes, and orange cheeks.[20]
- Go with a Whiteface variety if you want a totally white bird. Whiteface cockatiels don't have the characteristic yellow crests or orange patches on their cheeks. They also don't have the yellowish cast of the Lutino variety. Instead, they are completely white all over their body. The eyes are black like the classic grays.[21]
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| How to Hang a Mirror Posted: 31 May 2018 01:00 AM PDT Hanging a mirror is a great way to open up your space and make it look bigger and brighter! Weigh and measure your mirror to determine Once you've picked the perfect spot to hang your mirror, it's time to straighten it up and mark where the hardware will go. Install your hardware and hang the mirror in place, then admire the finished product! EditChoosing a Location - Stand on a bathroom scale with and without the mirror to calculate its weight. The difference between the 2 numbers is the weight of the mirror. A heavy mirror will weight between , while a lighter mirror will fall between . While both weight categories hang the same way, you'll need to put more thought and care into anchoring a heavy mirror into the wall.[1]
- If your mirror weighs over , have someone help you with the placing and hanging process.[2]
- Heavy mirrors need some kind of anchor, such as a stud in the wall, so that will affect where you can place it.
- Make sure to choose hardware with a high enough weight capacity to hold your mirror!
- Choose a room to hang the mirror in. Think about which rooms feel smaller, dark, or more cramped, and could use some brightening up, such as bathrooms or bedrooms. You could also use the mirror as a statement piece in main areas of the house, such as the living room mantel or the dining room.[3]
- Hang a mirror above your mantel for a central statement piece.
- Display a dramatic mirror in the dining room or entryway to reflect light and open up the space.
- Add a new mirror to your bathroom to add visual interest.
- Hang a full-length mirror on your door to conserve space.
- Ask someone to help you hold and place the mirror to get the full picture. Have a friend or family member hold the mirror up to the wall while you step back and look. This will help you visualize the finished product and find the exact placement you want. Once you've decided on a spot, mark the outline with pencil or masking tape.
- Make a paper outline of the mirror to easily visualize where to hang it. Use butcher paper or cardboard to trace and cut out the shape of the mirror. Hold the outline up to the wall and use it to visualize how the mirror would look. Adjust it until you find a spot that you like, then use pencil lines or masking tape to mark the placement.[4]
- Find a stud in the wall to hang a heavy mirror. If your mirror is over , your best bet is to drill into a stud to support the weight. These wooden beams in the walls act as inner supports and will help hold the mirror more solidly than plaster or drywall. To find a stud, use a stud finder tool, knock and listen, or look for indicators like outlets and molding nails.
- Use a straight-edged board to check the wall for flatness. If the wall is bumpy, it can make a heavy mirror wobble or even break from uneven pressure. Use a long, flat board, such as a yardstick or a straight piece of 1x3 lumber. Slide the board over the wall and note any rocking, which indicates a bump.[5]
- If the wall has too many bumps, mark them in pencil and sand them down gently with medium or coarse sandpaper. To save time, you could also just choose a new place to hang the mirror.
EditMeasuring and Marking the Space - Draw a line on the wall where the bottom of the mirror will go. Once you've picked the perfect spot for the mirror, have someone help hold the mirror while you mark its position. Line up a level below the mirror's bottom edge and make sure it's straight. Set the mirror down, but keep the level in place as a straightedge. With a pencil, draw a light line along the top of the level indicating the position of mirror's bottom edge once it's hung. Make the line as long as the bottom of the mirror.[6]
- Before you draw, tilt the level until the bubbles in the liquid line up perfectly, indicating that the line is perfectly straight.
- Keep your level and pencil close by for hanging an unbacked mirror. At this point, you can start installing the hardware for your unbacked mirror. However, you'll need to keep your measuring and marking supplies handy during the process, so don't put them away yet!
- Measure and mark the distance for a backed mirror. Use a tape measure to find the distance between the bottom edge of the mirror and the top edge of a hanging point/hole. With the measuring tape, measure the same distance up from the line you drew on the wall. Draw second line at that height, making sure it's the same length and parallel to the first.[7]
- Use a strip of masking tape on a backed mirror with 2 hanging points. Larger mirrors often have 2 hanging points on the back, which can make it difficult to accurately measure and space out the hardware. An easy way to measure is to take a piece of masking tape and lay it horizontally across the 2 hooks on the back of the mirror. Use a pen to mark where the 2 hooks are under the tape, then peel off the tape and place it on your wall, along the second line.[8]
- Once the tape is placed on the wall, you can start installing the hardware. You can keep the tape on the wall while you install, then peel it off once you're done!
- If the mirror only has 1 hanging point, measure from the side of the mirror to the center of the hanging point. Measure the same distance on the wall, along the second line. With a pencil, mark where the hanging point will go.
EditHanging an Unbacked Mirror - Use brackets to hang heavy unbacked mirrors. You'll need 2 J brackets for the bottom, with a cradle wide enough for the thickness of your mirror, and 2 sliding J brackets for the top.[9]
- Install a row of 3-4 J-hooks along the bottom line drawn on the wall. Use as many hooks as you need to support the mirror's weight. Evenly space them out and install them with sturdy hollow-wall fasteners for wallboard or plaster, wood screws for wall framing, or masonry anchors if you're fastening the hooks to brick or concrete.[10]
- You may also want to pad the J-hooks with pieces of felt to protect the back of the mirror.
- You can also use a single J-shaped metal strip called a J-strip. You should pad this piece as well.
- Mark where the sides of mirror will sit on the wall. Use a level and a pencil to draw 2 lines on the wall, indicating the length of the mirror's sides. They should extend upward, both at a right angle to the bottom horizontal line.[11]
- Install 2-3 L- or Z-clips along the drawn vertical lines on the wall. Following the same intervals as the bottom J-hooks, loosely attach additional fasteners that will keep the mirror in place. Choose L- or Z-clips based on the mirror's design, then screw them into the wall. Keep the screw loose so the front side that will rest against the mirror is loose as well.[12]
- Since these clips won't support the mirror's weight, you only need light-duty fiber or plastic anchors called wall plugs to install them.
- Pad the L- and Z-clips with adhesive-backed felt where they'll touch the glass.
- Slide the mirror into place and tighten the clips to keep it secure. Move the side fasteners out of the way before setting the mirror's bottom edge into the J-hooks. Lift the mirror by the sides and tilt it backward against the wall, then tighten the L- or Z-clips just enough to hold the mirror firmly.[13]
EditHanging a Backed/Framed Mirror - Use monkey hooks to hang a heavy mirror if you don't have any tools. These thin, minimal-damage hooks make it easy to hang a mirror that weighs up to on drywall. They don't even require any tools to install besides a tape measure and a pencil! Just push and twist the hook to insert it into the wall.[14]
- The best part is that monkey hooks only leave a tiny, nail-sized hole behind, instead of a big anchor hole.[15]
- If your mirror weighs more than , try upgrading to gorilla hooks. They have the exact same design and installation style, and they can handle up to .
- These tap-in hooks are perfect for hanging on drywall.
- Use plastic wall anchors for a variety of sizes and weight capacities. Although these create a larger hole in the wall than the monkey hooks, they still do less damage than anchor holes and they're much easier to install. Choose your size and weight capacity based on how large and heavy your mirror is. To install, simply screw the hooks into the wall![16]
- Use a toggle bolt if you don't have a wall stud to drill into. Anchoring with a wall stud is the best method, but if you can't locate a wall stud or it's not available, toggle bolts are your next best bet.[17] Drill a hole in the wall large enough for the toggle bolt, then thread a machine screw through the toggle bolt nut. Pinch the wings on the toggle bolt flat, then push it into the hole you drilled in the wall. Tighten the bolt with a screwdriver until it hits the back of the wall.[18]
- To finish, hang the mirror's hooks on the toggle bolt and use a level to make sure everything's straight.
- Toggle bolts work best for hanging heavy mirrors on plaster walls.
- To save time, use a toggle bolt already fitted with a picture-hanging hook.
EditThings You'll Need - Pen
- Pencil
- Painter's tape/masking tape
- Measuring tape
- Hardware
- Drill
- Butcher paper or cardboard
- Straight-edged board
- Medium to coarse sandpaper
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