| How to Write a Grant Proposal Posted: 26 May 2016 05:00 PM PDT True grants can be very difficult to find and harder still to get. It may not be easy to find the right grant, but when you do, properly completing the grant application will be your biggest challenge. Most grant applications ask for similar information, but they often have different formats. Some will have a list of questions. Others will ask for a "narrative"—the story of your project. Whether it's for a business or organization, writing a grant proposal is a skill that you can learn. EditSample Grant Proposal Documents EditGetting Started - Read the grant application carefully. Highlight all questions you must answer and materials you have to include. Underline key words or phrases you might want to use.[1]
- Assess the purpose the grant is intended to fulfill. Throughout the process, you'll want to make sure to highlight your organization's contribution to this purpose, both in the past and in the present.[2]
- For example, if the grant is intended to promote education, you'll want to make sure to highlight your organization's educational activities, donations, etc.
- Before you start writing—brainstorm. What are the strong points of your organization? Your program? What are your best arguments and examples? These ideas give you a place to start writing.[3]
- Write a summary statement. Start by writing a one-paragraph description of your request. This will help you start with the big picture—the rest is filling in the details. You may be able to use this summary in the proposal, or as the first paragraph of your narrative. It should include:
- Who you are, explained as if the grantor has never heard of your organization before.[4]
- What your project is, and specifically what you plan to do.[5]
- How much you're asking for, and exactly what you'll use the money for.[6]
- If the grant requires an abstract, this summary statement will serve as your first draft.
- Create an outline. It should describe each step of your plan and organize your thinking. The outline is the plan you'll follow as you draft your proposal.[7]
- Expand each point as needed to fully explain each section.
- Use the grantor's request for proposals (RFP) or criteria as the basis. The outline should follow, painstakingly, the sequence and terms prescribed by the grantor.
- Determine if your proposal is the type of project the grantor actually funds. Don't assume that just because there is a significant amount of money available, that they will fund just anything.[8]
- The truth is that grantors are usually very specific in what they are looking for (and sometimes a bit odd, but that's their choice), and will rarely deviate from their category.
- You may have the very best purple widget in the world, but if the grant is only for the producers of red widgets, you won't get the grant.
EditWriting Your Proposal - Write the first draft. It doesn't have to look good, just get your ideas down on paper—you can polish them later.[9]
- Look at your brainstorm ideas and your outline, and start with the questions that you have the most answers for. If you get stuck on one question, work on another one for a while.[10]
- Focus on the parts of your project that they'll like best—use their guidelines for clues. For example, if they're partial to environmental responsibility, and part of your project is using renewable resources for energy, make that stand out.
- Where appropriate, highlight your organization's partnerships with other groups. This builds credibility and legitimacy.
- Clearly lay out specific goals. Your grant proposal should describe what the money will be used for, and the clearer you are in describing your goals, the more likely the outcome of your proposal will be positive.[11]
- If you say, for example, "I want this grant so that I can help the community," you won't get nearly the credibility as you would by saying "This grant will allow us to buy two new computers, and create two part-time paid staff positions in an area where jobs for high school students are very difficult to find."
- Make it shine. When you're done with your draft, go through it carefully and polish it up. Make sure the ideas are clear and the delivery concise. Read it out loud to see how it flows. You will probably need to rewrite a lot, and possibly will need to do so several times.[12][13]
- You can use the key words and phrases you underlined in the application. But don't worry about getting fancy—just say what you have to say, briefly and clearly.
- Review your original summary. Make sure it exactly reflects the proposal you've actually written—your ideas might have changed!
- Review the proposal and the requirements. Before you proofread, read and re-read the requirements instructions carefully. Every grant has rules and procedures that must be followed exactly as written. Make sure your proposal has followed all the rules.[14]
- If it says that the grant must be submitted via the online form, don't even bother to ask if you can send it via fax.
- Unlike employment applications, in which it sometimes pays to be original, grant committees have rules in place for a specific reason, and they expect them to be followed to the letter. To do otherwise may mean that your application will be disqualified before it ever gets read.
- Proofread carefully. Show the funding committee that you take the proposal seriously by carefully proofing your proposal for spelling, typing, and grammatical errors.[15]
- Take time to have at least two people proofread your proposal before you submit it—and then read it out loud to yourself to make sure.[16] Some say reading something from back to front is a good way to catch errors you might otherwise miss, but do whatever you must to make certain you are submitting a flawless document.
- Do a reality check. Have at least two other people outside of your organization or discipline read the proposal, and then ask them questions about your concept.[17]
- If they cannot explain what you are trying to do, chances are the grants committee won't either, and they won't fund what they can't comprehend.
EditAdding Required Support Documentation - Define the project's budget. Don't guess about the numbers. Instead, take the time to research and evaluate the actual expenses you've got to manage. Don't estimate. Use real numbers, not amounts that end in 000.00.[18]
- In a grant proposal, guessing won't make it. If a grant reviewer suspects that your financial sheet is not accurate, they don't have either the time or the inclination to do the research—you just lost the grant.
- Find out exactly what kind of equipment, labor, and anything else you are going to need, and exactly what the cost will be so you can spell it out in the proposal.
- Produce a budget summary. A budget summary is a document that summarizes personnel expenses by category such as salary and fringes, purchased services, supplies, occupancy related expenses, communications, travel, equipment, printing, capital, indirect costs, etc.[19]
- Typically, you will allocate the summary across several columns of information: total project cost, amount sought from the funder, and the matching funds you are contributing.
- Grantors are more likely to consider proposals that show the applicant is also has a stake in the outcome.
- Do not use a line called "other expenses" unless you fully explain it.
- Create a budget justification. A budget justification provides numerical detail explaining how you arrived at the amounts in the summary.[20]
- In all circumstances, make sure your amounts balance out, meaning that everything adds up to the same numbers throughout the proposal.
- Show that your participation matters. Letters of support and newspaper articles document your success and your partnerships with other organizations, and go a long way toward establishing your validity.
- Add other documents as required. For example, a 501(c)(3) letter of tax-exemption; an audit or financial report, and a list of the board of directors. Make a file with several copies of each, so you have them ready whenever you write a proposal.
EditFinalizing Your Application - Add a cover letter. This should include a summary of your request, including the purpose of your project and the amount of money you are requesting. It should also list the contents of your proposal (i.e. which documents you have included).[21]
- Your cover letter will, in many cases, provide your grantor with their first impression of you. You should invest as much time and care in the cover letter as the other parts of the document.[22]
- Proofread everything—again. You may think the document has been thoroughly proofread, but do it again anyway. It's not unusual for a word to be misspelled and have nobody catch it.
- Keep a look out for small details, such as a "there" that should be "their," an "it's" that should be "its," or a word that is commonly misspelled.
- Double check everything. Make sure you answered all the questions and are sending all the required materials.
- Make a copy for your files. The information you've compiled could be very valuable for future grant applications.
- Make sure you mail or deliver it in time to meet the deadline. A late application will look sloppy, and may not even be considered.[23]
EditFollowing Up - Give it a little time. About a week after mailing, call to make sure it arrived and is complete (this is also an opportunity to talk a bit with the grant maker).[24]
- Keep the grantor informed. During the review period, if you have a major success, send a letter and let them know. If you get an article in the paper or online, send them a copy or the URL.[25]
- Be patient. The review process can take a long time. The fact that you haven't heard anything is not necessarily a sign of anything.[26]
- If you really want the money, then spend the time to put it together correctly, without shortcuts.
- Give yourself enough time. Don't throw the proposal together in order to meet the deadline because it shows. A good proposal package takes time to assemble and research properly.
- It's a good idea to apply for grants from several sources, as any individual grant is likely to either not come through, or provide only part of the funds you've requested.[27]
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| How to Treat Dog Diarrhea Posted: 26 May 2016 09:00 AM PDT Diarrhea is a common problem for our canine companions. Many cases of diarrhea are not serious and will resolve given the correct home care. By taking the right action you can help straightforward, uncomplicated episodes of diarrhea settle down without a trip to the vet clinic. Still, sometimes the problem is serious enough to require a trip to the vet. EditTreating Your Dog's Diarrhea Through Diet - Put the dog on a 12 to 24-hour fast. The presence of food in the gut causes contractions of the bowel wall to push food along. But if the dog has diarrhea, these contractions can be over-enthusiastic and push food through too quickly in the form of diarrhea. The answer is to withhold food for 12 - 24 hours to let the over-sensitized bowel wall calm down and act normally.
- Provide fresh drinking water.[1] During this period of fasting, let the dog have access to clean, fresh drinking water. Monitor the water bowl to make sure it is going down (ie he is drinking). If he is drinking well, then the risk of dehydration is drastically reduced.
- Ease your dog off his fast with bland food. After the fasting period, do NOT put the dog straight back onto his regular diet. Instead, offer him food that is gentle on his stomach and easy to digest.
- An ideal bland diet avoids fatty foods and rich, red meat.
- Offer your dog chicken — the actual meat, not than a chicken-flavored food. Don't give your dog chicken skin, only meat.
- Combine the chicken with boiled white rice, pasta, or mashed potatoes.
- Avoid milk and dairy products, as many dogs have a lactose intolerance which could trigger diarrhea. This means no butter in the mashed potatoes.
- Bland food produces a low volume (and pale) stool, so don't expect your dog's feces to look totally normal. What you are looking for is a stool that can be picked up as a sign he is on the mend.
- Try a prescription diet from the vet. If you know that your dog doesn't respond well to the bland, home-prepared meal, ask your veterinarian for prescription dog food for healing stomachs. Diets such as Hills ID and Purina EN are proven to speed up the recovery time from diarrhea.
- Ration his portion sizes.[2] Smaller meals give the bowel less stimulation to go into spasm. When your dog ends his fast, feed him the same amount of food in a day as his normal diet. However, divide it into four smaller portions and spread the meals throughout the day. This will prevent his diarrhea from returning.
- Transition your dog slowly back to a regular diet. Once your dog's diarrhea has safely passed, you can begin easing him back into a normal diet. Don't switch him straight back onto his normal food, as the bowel needs time to heal. Stick to the bland diet for two days to make sure the diarrhea has passed. Then take a further 2 days to transition him back onto normal food using the following method:
- Mix ⅔ bland food with ⅓ normal diet.
- The next day, change to ⅓ bland diet and ⅔ normal food.
- On the third day, it's okay to put him back onto a normal diet.
- Administer probiotics. Probiotics are bacteria helpful to digestion that speed up recovery from diarrhea. Useful bacteria can be lost during the violent expulsions of diarrhea. It then takes time for the population to build back up again and digestion to reach full efficiency. A supplement of probiotics boosts the bacterial population. Generally, probiotics are mixed into the dog's food once a day, for 5 days.
- The natural bacteria in a dog's bowel differ from those in human's. Don't give human probiotics to dogs.
- A variety of canine probiotics are available without prescription from your veterinarian, pharmacist, or major pet stores.
- Do not give your dog medications for human diarrhea. Mild diarrhea should respond to the above steps. Giving your dog a drug that reduces bowel movement may hide a serious problem until it is too late. If the original symptoms do not settle after 2 -3 days with the methods mentioned above, chances are your dog has a problem which needs veterinary attention.[3]
EditDeciding If Your Dog Needs a Vet Visit - Determine if he's eaten anything dangerous. Diarrhea is usually caused by a dog eating something he shouldn't. In most cases, he'll get better whenever his body eliminates whatever he ate.
- However, if you find out your dog's consumed something toxic, like rat poison or household cleaning products, then take him to the vet immediately.
- Take his temperature. Simple diarrhea is rarely accompanied by a fever. If your dog's running a fever, he's probably suffering from an infection of some sort. To take your dog's temperature, have a friend restrain him by sliding an arm under his stomach and pulling the dog's hindquarters against his/her chest. The friend should place their other hand firmly under the dog's chin. Gently restrain the dog and speak in soothing tones if it begins to wriggle. Place a muzzle on the dog if you're worried he'll bite during the procedure.
- Lubricate the thermometer, then, lifting the tail up, insert it gently into the dog's anus. On a female dog, make sure you're not inserting it into the vulva, which is found just below the anus.
- Do not force the thermometer in, as you can injure your dog.
- Wait for the thermometer to beep, letting you know it's finished taking its reading.
- A normal temperature is 100.5 to 102.5 F.
- Any temperature of 103.5 F or higher is considered feverish.[4]
- Take note if diarrhea is combined with vomiting.[5] Vomiting and diarrhea is a dangerous combination because the dog is losing fluid at both ends. This puts him at risk of dehydration. This is especially worrying if the dog is unable to drink and hold fluids down. In such a case, seek urgent veterinary attention.
- Check for dehydration.[6] Diarrhea is basically feces that contain a large amount of fluid. If the dog passes a lot of diarrhea and doesn't replace that fluid, he will become dehydrated. Dehydration reduces the blood supply to organs such as the liver or kidneys, which can potentially cause damage.
- To test for dehydration, lift the dog's scruff away from the shoulder blades and then let it go.
- Fully hydrated skin pings right back into position.
- The skin of a dehydrated dog is less elastic, and may take a couple of seconds or longer to fall back into place.
- Inspect the diarrhea for blood.[7] If you find blood in the diarrhea, it may be because of inflammation or hemorrhage. While inflammation is uncomfortable, hemorrhage is potentially life-threatening. You won't be able to tell the difference at home so don't take any risks. Seek veterinary attention as soon as you see blood in your dog's stool.
- Monitor your dog for weakness, lethargy, or collapse.[8] A dog with mild diarrhea is always bright and alert. If your dog is bright eyed and bouncy, but has diarrhea, monitor him carefully for the development of the signs above. Its okay to try controlling the problem yourself.
- However, if your dog lacks energy, is listless and unable to settle, or worse - collapses, then seek professional help.
- When you go to the vet, bring a fresh stool sample and have them do a fecal float and a fecal smear.
- Some dogs do not react well to canned dog food. Consider feeding your dog a premium dry food, or a mixture of canned and dry.
- Mucous in diarrhea indicates an irritated bowel. Parasites, raw pork hearts and medical conditions can cause mucous in the stool.
- Don't give your dog new foods that they have never eaten while you are still treating the diarrhea.
- If you're switching your dog's food, do it gradually or your dog might get sick or have more diarrhea.
- Watery diarrhea in puppies is life threatening if not treated immediately by a veterinarian.
- Green-tinged diarrhea in puppies may indicate coccidiosis. See your vet immediately.
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| How to Get Rid of Gophers Posted: 26 May 2016 01:00 AM PDT Gophers have a talent for finding your favorite plants and eating them. They infest your front lawn while leaving your neighbor's property untouched. For those who've resolved to make gopher scourges a thing of the past, there are some effective and time-tested strategies. EditUsing Non-Lethal Remedies - Scatter some of your pet's droppings. Instead of tossing your cat litter or your dog's poop into the trash, put it into the gopher tunnels instead. You won't need a lot; one or two droppings will be enough. Cats and dogs are gopher predators. When gophers smell the poop, they'll think that a predator is nearby.[1]
- Use smells that gophers don't like. Gophers have very sensitive noses. If they smell something they don't like, they may leave. Here are some scents that are bound to set gophers scurrying:[2]
 - Fish. The next time you go fishing, save some of the scraps (such as fins) and place them in or next to the tunnels.
- Castor oil. Dilute castor oil with some water and spray it into the tunnels, You can also try dropping some castor oil capsules into the tunnels instead.
- Coffee grounds. After you have finished brewing a cup of coffee, sprinkle the grounds into the tunnels and cover them with soil. You can also mix the coffee grounds into your soil. It will help repel the gophers while fertilizing your plants.
- Dryer sheets. Take a few dryer sheets and tuck them into the holes. The strong smell will send the gophers away.
- Mothballs. Drop a couple of mothballs into the tunnel, and cover the opening with plastic. Gophers don't like the smell of naphthalene, which is in mothballs.
- Tabasco sauce. Mix together a few drops of peppermint essential oil, 1 teaspoon of Tabasco sauce, ½ cup (120 milliliters) of castor oil, and 1 cup (240 milliliters) of water. Soak some cotton balls in the mixture, then drop them into the tunnels.
- Plant gopher spurge. This plant, also known as "Euphorbia Lathyris," is a common gopher repellent. Buy a few from your local nursery and plant them in your yard. Focus on the gopher infested areas.
- Other plants that gophers seem to dislike include: castor beans, daffodils, and marigolds.[3]
- Some people find that the oleander plant is also an effective gopher repellent. Consider planting oleander around the perimeter of your garden.[4]
- Create a noisy environment. Like many animals, gophers dislike a lot of noise. If you find gophers in your yard, try using something that makes noise, such as:[5]
- Portable radio. Find a cheap, battery-operated radio. Turn it on and stick it into a plastic, resealable bag. Tuck the bag into the gopher tunnel. The plastic bag will protect the radio from getting wet.
- Wind chimes. They are pretty and create a soft, chiming noise that gophers seem to dislike.
- Use vibrating stakes. Most vibrating stakes are set deep into the ground, and are completely invisible above ground. They are usually battery-operated. You can buy some that are wind operated. These ones stick above ground and are ornamented with a windmill. You can buy them online, and in certain nurseries or home improvement stores. To insert the vibrating stake:[6]
- Dig a hole into the ground. Make sure that it is deep enough to fit the stake.
- Slip the stake into the hole.
- Fill the hole with more dirt.
- Avoid hammering or pushing the stake directly into the soil, as this can damage it.
- Set a gopher trap. Cover all holes with soil, except for one or two. These should be the entrance and exit to the main tunnel. Wash the trap using unscented soap and warm water. Put on a pair of latex gloves, and insert the traps into the tunnel, with the open end facing inside the tunnel.[7] Once you have placed the trap, cover the area with a sheet of black plastic or burlap so that no light shines into the hole.
- The main tunnel is usually 6 to 12 inches (15.24 to 30.48 centimeters) underground. You can find it by poking the ground around a mound, on the same side as you see freshly-dug-up earth.[8] Use a weeder or wooden spoon handle. Keep poking until you feel the soil "give."
- Some people find that rubbing the trap with fresh rosemary helps further disguise the smell of humans.
- Once you have trapped the gopher, either call up animal control or release it into the wilderness.
- Use a sewage-based fertilizer. Whenever the soil gets wet, the chemicals in the fertilizer will leach into the soil, and repel the gophers. Avoid using this if you have pets, children, or plan on protecting fruits, vegetables, or herbs. Put on a pair of latex gloves, then follow the steps below:
- Dig a trench about 3 inches (7.62 centimeters) wide and 12 inches (30.48 centimeters) deep around the area you want to protect.
- Consider digging a few extra trenches and have them meet in the center of the area you are protecting.
- Fill the trench(s) with the fertilizer.
- Cover the trench with 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) of soil.
EditUsing Lethal Remedies - Use gopher burrow blasters or detonators to smoke them out. They may also be labeled as gopher flares. They fill the tunnels with a mixture of propane and oxygen. This kills the gophers. Buy a few, and read the instructions included, as each brand might be a little different. Insert the flare into the tunnel and wait.
- Burrow blasters/detonators will also work on: badgers, ground hogs, ground squirrels, moles, pocket gophers, prairie dogs, voles, and other burrowing animals.[9]
- Gas them using your car's exhaust. Cover all of the holes up with soil except for one. Stick one end of a garden hose into the end of your car's exhaust pipe, and the other end of the hose into the remaining tunnel. Turn your car on for about 15 to 30 minutes. The hose will flood the tunnel with poisonous carbon monoxide.[10]
- Use poisons with care, especially if you have pets. When a gopher eats the poison, its body will keep that poison. This means that if your cat or dog eats the dead gopher, he or she will get poisoned as well. Because of this, you might want to stay away from poisons containing strychnine. Instead, go for anticoagulants instead. They will cause internal bleeding in the gopher, but won't make the corpse toxic.[11]
- Keep all poisons away from children and other animals.
- Consider other methods if you have pets at home.
- Always wash your hands after handling the poison.
- To use a Warfarin type bait / pellet poison, you poke down about 1 foot from a recent dirt mound to find a tunnel. Gently open a small hole, pour some pellets in, cover the hole without collapsing the tunnel.
- Try using a garden hose to flood the gopher tunnel with water. This may not work for your situation, but if you've tried other avenues without success, consider it. Keep in mind that, depending on how deep the tunnels are, your yard could get very muddy. Cover up most of the gopher holes, and stick the end of a garden hose into a tunnel. Let the water run for up to 30 minutes. Kill or trap any escaping gophers.
- Make sure that you are indeed dealing with gophers. Ground moles love the damp. If you have ground moles and flood you are flooding the tunnel, you'll only make your yard more inviting.[12]
- Try leaving some fruit-flavored gum or other soft, chewy candy in their tunnels. Many homeowners find that the Juicy Fruit brand works quite well, although there is no scientific research as to why. Put on a pair of latex gloves first, so that your scent doesn't get on the gum. Unwrap the gum and drop it into the gopher hole. The gopher will eat it and die in its burrow.
- Release a predator. This can be as simple as letting your cat or dog out into the yard. Keep in mind, however, that this also depends on the predator's hunting ability and willingness to hunt.
 - Not all cats and dogs will get gophers, and their smell alone won't always help. You need a dedicated and skilled cat or dog. If you have a cat who can catch and kill gophers, you are in luck. As for dogs, some dogs you'd never think were ratters can be very good. But if you want to be sure you're adopting a dog who'll hunt gophers, try to get two Jack Russell Terriers (both should be altered to prevent puppies). Two terriers will tag team a gopher. They'll wait on opposite sides of a hole, and when the gopher emerges one or the other will get it. If you have a friend with JRT's and your yard is fenced and dog-escape-proof, you can ask to borrow them, too.
- Set up some owl boxes in trees to invite owls into your yard.[13] The owls will prey upon the gophers. You might not want to do this, however, if you have small dogs or cats.
- Buy some non-venomous snakes and set them loose in your yard. Keep in mind that it may take up to a month for the snake to clear our your yard. If you have a very big gopher problem, consider getting two snakes.[14]
- Get a gopher snake with caution. While a gopher snakes are not considered to be venomous, they may still hurt a cat or smaller dog.
- Hire a professional. A professional exterminator can use Aluminum Phosphide, which reacts with moisture in the air and soil to produce fast-acting highly toxic phosphine gas. There is no residual poison, and there is no secondary poisoning. If your pet digs up and eats the gopher carcass, there is not a chance that your pet will get poisoned. This is the most expensive option, but many exterminating companies offer guarantees.
EditDecreasing the Food Supply - Decrease the food supply or prevent the gophers from getting to it. The less gophers have to eat in your garden, the sooner they will move on to other yards. This does not necessarily mean that you have to get rid of all your plants, vegetables, and flowers. If you can keep the gophers from getting to your tasty plants, they will move on. Here are some ideas to get you started:
- Use gopher baskets to protect your plants. Plant vegetable and other vulnerable plants in gopher baskets. These are baskets made of chicken wire that protect the young roots until they are well established.
- Use mulch as a buffer between the soil gophers burrow in and your plants.[15] Gophers seem to dislike the smell and taste of mulch.
- Limit the amount of plants in your garden. Instead, consider planting a rock garden or a water garden.[16] Water gardens can be very beautiful, and you can place aquatic plants in them.
- Build a fence, but make sure that part of it extends underground. While gophers are good at burrowing, they are bad at climbing. Buy some wire mesh from your local nursery or home improvement store. Place it around your garden. Make sure that it extends at least 12 inches (30.48 centimeters) underground. This will prevent the gophers from burrowing under it.[17]
- Make sure that the fence is a few inches tall above the ground.
- Try to make the underground part of the fence curve away from your plant bed in an "L" shape. This will confuse the gophers, and prevent them from digging deeper (below the bottom of your fence.[18]
- Build some raised plant beds instead.[19] This will involve building some planters and filling them with soil. You can then place everything into those planters. For ultimate security, consider lining the bottom of your planters with chicken wire to prevent the gophers from digging under the planter walls and into the planter itself.
- If you can't locate a tunnel after about 30 seconds of probing, try a different nearby mound.
- If you use water in the gopher holes more than once and the gophers do not die, the gophers will move to another part of your garden. If you use water there, they will probably leave your garden completely.
- Infested areas are prone to re-infestation, because new gophers like to use old tunnel networks. Be alert to fresh gopher holes and treat them quickly.
- Use latex gloves to handle anything you put into the gopher hole. Gophers avoid things that smell of humans.
- Some of these methods take time. Give them a few days before trying another.
- There are devices, instruments called "thumpers" that provide a percussive sound to the ground near gopher holes. It irritates them so much they leave.
- After the gophers have been eliminated, monitor your yard regularly for reinfestation Clean away weeds and garden debris from your yard area so fresh mounds can be readily seen. Take immediate control action when they do reappear.
- Don't use a poison bait if your pet might eat either the poison or the poisoned gopher. If you use a bait, keep away from children and pets, then wash your hands after application.
- Don't attempt to capture a live gopher and bring it into your home.
- Check your city, country, or state's laws regarding getting rid of certain pests. Some methods for getting rid of gophers may be illegal in certain countries and states.
- Comm forms of poisons used to kill gophers are (check the label of ingredients on any commercial gopher bait you might use) : Strychnine – This is the most common form and most effective. It is also the most damaging to the overall ecosystem. Strychnine will not only kill the gopher, but will kill anything that eats the dead gopher or anything that may eat the grain set out for it. Zinc phosphide and, like strychnine will kill any animal that eats the poisoned gopher or bait grain. Chlorophacinone (RoZol) – This is an anticoagulant poison. It is the least effective of the poisons, but has the least threat of damage to the surrounding ecosystem. It takes about 10 times more of this poison to kill a gopher than strychnine or zinc phosphide. And it, like the other two poisons, it will kill anything that eats the dead gopher or anything that may eat the grain set out for it. Use these gopher poison with extreme care.
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