| How to Get Front Row at a Concert Posted: 19 May 2016 05:00 PM PDT When it comes to scoring the coveted front row real estate at a concert, you're going to need to be resourceful and determined. If a concert has assigned seating, you'll need to be on your A-game while shopping for tickets. General admission tickets, while typically the cheapest ones you can buy, come at a different cost. When you don't have assigned seating, it's every person for themselves. It won't be an easy journey to the front row, but it'll be worth it. EditPlanning Ahead - Try to purchase front row tickets the minute they go on sale. If the concert venue or the musical artist has a mailing list, sign up. Often times, they'll offer pre-sale tickets which can increase your chances of getting a limited front row spot. If you're willing to shell out a little more, you can also look into purchasing a VIP package that often comes with premium seating.[1] Whether you're trying to purchase via pre-sale or regular sale, make sure to set your alarm and be on the ticket website right when tickets go on sale. The faster you are, the more tickets you'll have to choose from.
- If there are no front row tickets available, you can try the "high risk, high reward" approach of waiting until the day of the concert to check again. Some venues will release more premium seats right before doors open. Typically these are tickets that the artist or venue management reserved that ended up being unused.
- Sometimes you can even find front row tickets through scalpers or CraigsList. However, you may not be able to get tickets until right before the concert, and buying them from an unauthorized vendor comes with risks.
- Arrive right when the doors open if you have general admission tickets. Sometimes this is only an hour before the show begins, and other times it's hours. Depending on how committed you are to getting a spot in the front row, you should get there as early as you can.[2] You can stake out a prime spot before the venue begins to fill up. This, of course, is the easiest way to get a front row spot without fighting through crowds.
- Sometimes, you have to take this step to the extreme and camp out before a big concert. You may have to camp out in a line to get your front row tickets. You can learn all about camping out overnight here!
- Arriving super early or camping out can turn a simple concert into a weekend-long event. Bring your favorite friends, and make it a party.
- Bring the proper supplies. If it's an outdoor venue, you may be able to claim your territory with picnic blankets or lawn chairs. Sunscreen and a water bottle (if allowed) are also helpful so you can stay in your spot comfortably. If it's indoor and standing room only, you'll need to wear comfortable shoes so you can post up pain-free. Look up the venue beforehand, so you know what to expect and which items are allowed.
- It's also important to consider the venue to ensure that you dress appropriately. If you're going to be squeezed into a small bar, you may want to wear less clothing so you don't overheat. If you're going to an outdoor concert, you may want to bring a jacket for chillier temperatures after the sun sets.[3]
- Another "supply" you should bring is a good cell phone battery. You'll want a fully-charged cell phone to make sure it lasts for the whole concert. You do not want to risk getting separated from your friends without a cell phone.
- Reduce your liquid intake a few hours before the concert. This sounds ridiculous, but there is no way you'll be able to hold your spot if you're running off to the bathroom. Not only does "dibs" not work at a concert, but you'll also have to fight through crowds of people and stand in long lines. To avoid this, just ease up on the water or booze in plenty of time.[4]
- Sometimes bathroom trips are unavoidable. That's OK! Unless you're at the concert alone, you can take turns in the bathroom with whoever you're with. That way one person can hold the spot.
EditManeuvering to the Front - Take the path of least resistance. It's probably not wise to charge straight through the middle of the crowd. Instead, try to get as close to the front as you can by weaving down the side of the crowd, along the perimeter. Once you've gotten as close to the front as you can with that method, try shimmying your way into the crowd sideways.[5]
- People will probably be more willing to let you through when you are coming from the side, rather than rushing them from behind. They'll likely think you're finding a new spot, rather than cutting in front of people
- Link hands with your friends. This is especially important in packed venues, where there is a risk of getting separated and lost from the people you came with. Link hands so you can weave through the crowd as a chain. You won't be able to walk side by side in a crowd, so just firmly join hands to stay together.
- If the crowd is more aggressive, there is always a chance that you will get separated from your friends. In these situations, it's important that everyone has cell phones so you can safely find each other. If there is no cell phone service at the venue, make sure you have a designated meeting spot!
- Be aggressive but polite. This is most important for the person at the front of your linked chain. You have to be a little forceful to get around people, but you should still be saying "please" and "thank you." People will be much more inclined to help you if you treat them respectfully.[6]
- If someone won't budge even after you say "please," then you can get a little sassy.
- Don't feel shy about speaking up and forcing your way through people. Chances are you'll never see those people again, but you will always remember seeing the artist up close.
EditStanding Your Ground - Sacrifice the beer. You'll never maintain your spot in the front row if you're leaving to stand in line at the concession stand. Even if you send a friend to fetch the beverages, you run the risk of being overtaken by a larger group of concert-goers, or being permanently separated from your friend. If you can, ditch the beer to ensure you keep your spot.[7]
- If the venue is less crowded, smaller, or just easier to navigate in general, feel free to take your chances.
- The rebellious concert-goers can try bringing a flask. If it doesn't get confiscated on your way in, it can help you preserve your good spot and save you money.
- Take a power stance. If you look meek and unsure of yourself, other concert-goers behind you and to the side of you will have no issue bumping into you and taking your spot. Instead, stand confidently to claim your space. Keep your legs hip width apart and your shoulders pulled back. Hold your head high. Don't be afraid to take up your rightful, front row space.[8]
- If concert-goers are bumping into you or trying to steal your spot despite your power stance, have a powerful attitude to match. Speak up! Make steady eye contact, and tell them to back up.
- Dance, sing, and have fun. If you're in the front row, you've got to prove that you deserve to be there! If you're standing solemnly with your arms crossed and looking disinterested, the more hardcore fans will likely usurp your space. Dance, sing along, and go crazy at the concert. And if you've got the front row, how could you not be having fun?!
- Put your phone away! It can be fun to snap a few pictures or videos, but it can also be annoying to everyone around you. Enjoy the live music you're experiencing, and put your phone away until later.[9]
- If all else fails, just enjoy the concert. Regardless of where you're standing, you're experiencing live music.
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| How to Care for a Husky Posted: 19 May 2016 09:00 AM PDT Huskies are highly energetic working dogs, meaning they need a lot of exercise and activity to be happy.[1] They are loyal and good-natured dogs who have a genuine love for life, and lots of people want them as pets. However, Huskies can also be stubborn and quite difficult to train, so you must be up to the task. If you are considering owning a Husky, decide if you have the time, patience, energy, and dedication to help him live a long, happy, and fulfilled life. EditTraining Your Husky - Socialize your puppy Husky. Socialization teaches your puppy how to interact properly with various aspects of his environment (e.g., people, other dogs), which will help him grow into a confident and well-mannered adult dog. Allow your puppy to spend time around different people and experience various sights and sounds.[2]
- Puppy kindergarten class is a great way to teach your Husky puppy how to interact with other dogs.[3] Enroll your puppy Husky in puppy kindergarten when he is four to five months old.[4]
- Other than puppy kindergarten, you can socialize your puppy by exposing him to different situations in his environment, such as the sounds of passing cars and honking horns. You can also invite your friends over to help him become comfortable with new people.[5]
- Taking your puppy to a park is another good way to expose him to different people, sights, and sounds.
- Observe your puppy as he explores his new world. If he appears frightened or wary of certain experiences, do not continue to expose him to those situations.
- Enroll your adult Husky in an obedience training class. By nature, Huskies are very independent and intelligent dogs.[6] However, they can also be stubborn,[7] which can make training difficult. Obedience classes are ideal for training your Husky.[8]
- Enroll your Husky in a "junior" obedience class when she is 4 months old and follow up with adult training around 12 months.[9] For a well-behaved dog, it is imperative you begin training your Husky at a young age.
- Be aware that your Husky may use her intelligence to differentiate between training class and home — she may perform the training exercises perfectly in class, then misbehave when she gets home.[10] Frustrating as this may be, continue to practice and reinforce her training at home.
- Crate train your Husky. This is particularly important if you have a Husky puppy. Crate training will help the housetraining process go more smoothly—he will not want to urinate or defecate where he sleeps.[11] In addition, crate training will turn his crate into a safe space to go if your Husky feels scared or needs to rest.[12]
- Your Husky's crate is not a place of punishment.[13] Sending him to his crate when he misbehaves may cause your Husky to develop a negative association with his crate.
- Leash train your Husky. If you let your Husky off her leash, she will likely dash away from you to go for a good run or happily pursue something far away.[14] She may love you as her owner, but, if given the chance, her love of running and chasing (and maybe even her predatory instincts) may take over.[15] Because of this, leash training your Husky is essential.
- Leash training will also prevent your Husky from pulling on the leash. If she begins to pull, you can either stand still and call her back to you or smoothly and immediately walk in the opposite direction of the pull.[16]
- Do not jerk or pull back on the leash — this may encourage your Husky to pull even harder.
- Do not use a retractable leash — this could cause your Husky to pull even more, since pulling will let her go further.[17]
- If you have a puppy, let her sniff and "explore" her leash and collar in the house before you try walking her outside.[18]
- Obedience training classes can help you leash train your Husky.
- Establish that you are your Husky's leader. Huskies are pack animals and expect to have a clear leader of the pack.[19] Your Husky should see you as his leader. A good way to establish this leadership is to make him wait to eat.[20]
- By controlling when he eats, your Husky will see you as the sole source of his food and resources, and thus his leader.[21]
- Another way to establish your leadership with your Husky is to lead during your walks with him.[22] By taking the lead, you are confidently showing him that he is to follow you, rather than the other way around.
- Do not be surprised if your Husky occasionally tries to become the leader of the pack. If he does, remember to be firm and consistent with your leadership.[23]
- Do not establish your leadership through bullying or hitting your dog.[24] Your Husky is unlikely to trust and respect you as his leader if you try to establish your leadership through physical intimidation.
EditExercising and Playing With Your Husky - Exercise with your Husky on a daily basis. Huskies are working dogs, with their origins in Siberia where they pulled heavy sleds over long distances.[25] Thus, it comes as no surprise that Huskies require daily, vigorous exercise (at least 30 to 60 minutes) to release pent-up energy.[26][27]
- Long walks are a great way to exercise your Husky.[28]
- To encourage your Husky's "working dog" side (and if you are feeling adventurous), tie her leash to a bicycle or wheelbarrow and let her pull you.[29] Do not attempt this if she is not well trained.
- Playing fetch and going hiking with your Husky are other good ways to exercise her.[30][31]
- If you live by the water, you can take your Husky swimming.[32]
- Be mindful that Huskies are very energetic dogs, and are almost always ready to play and exercise.[33] Make sure you have the energy to keep up with her!
- Secure your yard to prevent escape. Huskies are master escape artists.[34] If you let your Husky exercise in the backyard, prevent his escape by enclosing your yard with a six-foot fence.[35] This may not be enough, however — your Husky's love of digging may lead him to try to dig his way out of your yard.[36]
- To prevent a '"digging" escape, have your fence sunk at least several inches into the ground.[37] You could even place concrete or strong mesh wiring at the base of the fence to prevent digging.[38]
- Contact a fencing company to reconfigure your fence such that your Husky cannot dig his way out.
- If your Husky has managed to dig some holes, you can fill them with cinder blocks to discourage further digging.[39]
- Always supervise your Husky when he is out in the yard. Although your Husky loves the outdoors, leaving him in the backyard unattended will probably make him feel lonely and bored, which could lead to destructive digging.[40]
- Find a playmate for your Husky. Huskies are very social animals.[41] Your Husky would love to have another dog with whom she can play and exercise. An ideal playmate will be a dog that is about the same size as your Husky and can keep up with her.[42]
- Allow your Husky to meet other dogs so that she can choose a playmate.[43]
- Do not exercise your Husky in hot weather. Huskies have a double coat, which makes them best suited for cold climates.[44] This does not necessarily mean that you should not own a Husky if you live in a warm climate — you will just need to use more caution when playing and exercising with him during the warmer months of the year.
- If you live in a warmer climate, exercise your Husky only in the early morning when it is not too hot outside.[45]
- Your Husky could overheat if he is outside for too long during the heat of the summer. Try to keep him inside during the hottest part of the day.
- Entertain your Husky. Your Husky is very intelligent, and will need mental stimulation to keep her happily busy and entertained. Kong toys are especially good for Huskies: they are durable and mentally challenge your Husky to figure out how to get the food out.[46]
- Fill the Kong toy with your Husky's favorite treats.
- Be mindful that Huskies can be very destructive. Choose durable chew toys that will keep your Husky busy, but cannot be easily destroyed.
- Other than toys, teaching your Husky various tricks (e.g., playing dead, playing fetch) will provide her with plenty of mental stimulation.
EditFeeding and Grooming Your Husky - Feed your Husky high-quality dog food. Huskies were originally bred to survive on a small amount of food. Therefore, your Husky will not need to eat a lot of calories to be healthy and have the energy to play and exercise.[47]
- Feed your Husky either once or twice daily and avoid exercise for at least 90 minutes after eating.[48][49]
- Your Husky may need more or less food, depending on such factors as her size, age, and health status.[50]
- If you have a Husky puppy, begin by feeding her three times a day — early morning, early afternoon, and evening. When she is three to four months old, she will likely cut herself back to twice-daily meals.
- Human food and canned food may cause your Husky to become a finicky eater and/or develop diarrhea.[51]
- If you purchased your Husky from a breeder, he or she can recommend dog foods for your Husky to eat.[52] You can also ask your veterinarian and other Husky owners for food recommendations.
- Brush your Husky's coat. By nature, Huskies are very clean dogs. They have little to no dog odor and groom themselves frequently, so you will not need to do much extra grooming.[53] However, Huskies do shed quite a bit, particularly during the spring and fall when they blow their coats (complete shedding of the undercoat).[54][55]
- The "blowing coat" period lasts for at least three weeks.[56]
- Brush your Husky with a slicker brush at least once a week throughout the year to remove dead hair and keep his coat fresh and shiny.[57][58][59] Slicker brushes are available at your local pet store.
- Do not shave your Husky's coat in the summer. You may think that shaving his coat will help cool him off, but you are actually removing his protection from harmful ultraviolet rays.[60]
- Bathe your Husky. Since Huskies do an excellent job of keeping themselves so clean, they rarely need baths. You will probably need to bathe your Husky only once a year.[61] If you are not able to bathe your Husky on your own, you may prefer to take her to a dog groomer.
- Trim your Husky's nails. Your Husky's nails should be trimmed once every one to two weeks.[62] If your Husky's energy and size make it difficult for you to trim his nails on your own, schedule a nail-trimming appointment with your veterinarian. Keep in mind that he may keep his nails naturally trimmed down with his exercise and play.[63]
- Brush your Husky's teeth. If you can manage it, brush your Husky's teeth at least two to three times a week.[64] You can purchase veterinarian-approved toothpaste through your veterinarian.[65]
- Brushing your dog's teeth will not only keep her breath fresh, but will also prevent plaque and tartar buildup, both of which can lead to serious dental and systemic diseases.[66]
- Consider talking with your veterinarian for extra guidance on brushing your Husky's teeth.
- If you are not able to brush your dog's teeth, you can schedule a dental cleaning with your veterinarian. However, this requires general anesthesia and can be very expensive.
- On average, Huskies live for 12 to 15 years.[67][68]
- Given their strong-willed nature, Huskies are better suited for experienced dog owners who can confidently and consistently assert firm leadership.[69]
- You will need to plenty of patience and perseverance to train a Husky.[70]
- Schedule regular veterinary visits for your Husky to ensure that he is in good health and is up to date on his vaccinations.
- Keep your Husky on a monthly heartworm preventative, as well as a flea and tick preventative.
- Provide your Husky with plenty of fresh water.
- Huskies are predatory dogs.[71] A Husky may see your cat as prey. If you have cats, you should probably consider a dog breed that does not have strong predatory instincts.
- Huskies can be very destructive when left alone without enough to keep them busy and/or mentally stimulated.[72] Provide your Husky with plenty of toys when you are not home, and closely supervise him when you are home.
- Huskies are not guard dogs.[73] In fact, they may enthusiastically greet an intruder or suspicious stranger, which could put you and your family in danger. Consider another breed if you want a guard dog such as a German shepherd or Doberman pinscher.
- Huskies are prone to such diseases as hip dysplasia and eye disorders (e.g., progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts), which may not be detectable when they are puppies.[74] Consider only buying a puppy from a breeder who screens their breeding animals for hip dysplasia and PRA. Take your Husky to your veterinarian if you notice that he is having trouble walking or seeing.
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| How to Develop Good Soccer Dribbling Skills Posted: 19 May 2016 01:00 AM PDT In soccer, it's important to control and manipulate the ball. Dribbling well sets you up for passes and shots. Want to get better at this fundamental skill? You can practice a variety of dribbling techniques with several parts of both feet. Doing so will help you acquire better control of the ball and maintain better movement and balance to move the ball downfield during a game. EditDeveloping Good Basic Dribbling Technique - Make gentle contact with the ball. Every time you contact the ball in soccer, it's called a "touch." By using gentle touches, you contact the ball more often, which will slow you down initially, but as you get used to making more contact with the ball, it will allow you to advance quickly, but with more control over the ball.
- The more your foot touches the ball, the more control you have over the ball's movement.
- Keep the ball close to your feet. Keep your knees bent as you pass the ball back and forth between the insides of your feet. Your body should be between the defender and the ball.[1] You'll also be able to change direction faster.[2]
- When you keep the ball close to your feet, defenders have a more difficult time intercepting the ball. This is also called shielding the ball.
- Use the leading edge of your foot to dribble. To dribble, or move the ball downfield, you'll need to pass the ball back and forth between the insides of your feet. At the same time, gallop, don't just run, downfield. Galloping will let you keep the ball close to your foot at all times. The hip and foot placement that comes from galloping will also help propel you downfield.[3] Keep the leading edge of your foot forward as you're galloping. This keeps contact between the ball and the leading edge of your foot, giving you the most speed and balance.[4]
- This doesn't apply to making cuts, stops, direction changes, etc. This is just for moving the ball downfield with as much speed and control as possible.[5]
- Keep the ball in the lower edge of your peripheral vision. Beginners, especially, tend to use most of their field of vision on the ball as they develop dribbling skills. Instead, you should practice keeping the ball at the bottom of your peripheral vision as early in the learning process as possible.[6]
- By keeping the ball in your lower field of vision, you can more easily maintain awareness of the rest of the field. This can help you see holes in defenses, open teammates, scoring positions, etc.[7]
- Change the pace. Proceeding in an easily predictable manner is the easiest way to get hung up by a defender. Practice changes in your dribbling pace. This way, you can more fluidly change pace in confusing ways on the field to throw defenders off balance.
- Use your body to protect the ball. Shield the ball with your body when a defender gets close. You can use your whole body to protect the ball. Use your arms, legs, and shoulders to keep the defender away from the ball. Just don't push or kick your opponent.[8] You can also try to keep the ball on the foot that is furthest from the defender.
EditPracticing Dribbling Exercises - Practice dribbling in a field. Find a long open space where you can practice sprinting while using gentle, leading edge touches. Keep the ball within a few feet of you rather than several yards ahead. In an open field, your gallop should change to more of a run, since you don't need as much control of the ball.
- Practice speed dribbling. Speed dribbling refers to moving the ball downfield with speed and control. For a proper speed dribbling technique, your foot should be slightly turned in at the ankle with the front of the foot down. This way, the front-outside of the shoe contacts the ball just above the middle toe.[9]
- This method should lead to contact with the ball every five to eight steps. Make the contacts in your running stride without having to slow considerably to contact the ball.[10]
- Dribble in and out through cones with one foot. Set up five cones, each roughly three feet apart, and use one foot to weave the ball through the cones. Alternate between the leading edge of your foot and the inside part of your instep to pass the ball back and forth between the cones.[11] Once you reach the end of the five cones, simply turn around and start back through them in the opposite direction. You can do this drill in several bursts such as down and back three times before taking a break.
- If you knock the cones over, you're going too fast or don't have enough control of the ball. Slow down until you don't knock the cones over.
- Since being able to use both feet is extremely important in soccer, don't try this drill using only your dominant foot. Run the drill, take a break, and then run it again with your other foot.
- Practice a crossover drill through cones with both feet. This drill requires the inside instep of both feet. Pass the ball forward between the cones with one foot, and then pass it back with the other foot while weaving it through the next set of cones.[12] This side-to-side motion is great practice for changing direction of the ball on a moment's notice.
- You don't necessarily need to make one single touch with each foot between each set of cones. You might stop the ball with the inner part of the foot before using it to pass the ball back. Keep the ball in control and practice doing the drill with as much speed as possible. If you have to look down at the ball while moving through the cones, keep working at it so you know where the ball is without looking.
- Practice an inside-outside drill through cones with both feet. Give the ball some momentum between the cones with the inner instep of the foot from the side you're starting. If you start by passing the ball from the left side of the cones, use the left foot. Then use the leading edge of the other foot to continue the ball's movement through the same set of cones.[13]
- Take another step with the first foot without touching the ball. Then use the inner instep of the previous leading edge foot to catch the ball. Start it through the next set of cones.[14]
- Practice roll-inside drills. Place your foot on top of the ball, and then roll the ball between the cones. You should roll at such an angle that the ball passes in front of the foot you use to roll when the foot comes off. You'll then use the inner instep of the other foot to catch the ball before using the roll maneuver again to pass it back.[15]
- Like the inside-outside drill, take another step with the original rolling foot between the inside foot stop and the next roll movement. This allows you to position yourself correctly.
- Practice passing the ball back and forth without cones. You can just as easily practice crossover skill without cones. Begin by passing the ball between both feet without any forward movement. Simply use the inner parts of both feet to pass the ball back and forth. Practice this maneuver at varying speeds and also while introducing forward and backward movement.[16]
- Watch professionals dribbling. Try to watch videos and observe their fakes and feints.
- Make sure that you're performing dribbling drills with both feet and not relying too heavily on your dominant foot. Being able to use both feet means better control of the ball.
- First work on skill, and then work on speed. Speed will come with repetition.
- Remember that in an actual game, a good pass is always preferable to attempting to beat a defender. Dribbling is meant to create passing and shooting opportunities, not simply to show off fancy footwork.
- Try to find a partner who wants to practice defending against you. You improve the most and quickest when you train with someone else instead of by yourself.
- You can chain these drills together or even come up with your own versions and combinations to work on specific dribbling skills.
- Keep your eyes up so that you don't run into another player. Also try passing the ball to another player with the outside of your foot instead of the inside.
- Learn ball control, since it is the root of all soccer skills, including dribbling, first touch, and passing.
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