How to Grow Poppies Posted: 06 Mar 2022 12:00 AM PST Poppies are versatile, show-stopping plants that include several varieties, from the big, bold Oriental poppy, which can grow as tall as 4 feet (122cm), to the demure Alpine poppy, topping out at about 10 inches (25cm). Poppies are tough plants that can thrive in any well-draining soil, although these tips will teach you how to grow them to encourage a healthy, blooming flowerbed. Once you have flowering poppies, you will likely have enough seeds to plant new poppies year after year. [Edit]Planting the Seeds - Prepare to plant in autumn or early spring, depending on your local climate. Poppy seeds require exposure to cool or cold temperatures before they will reliably sprout. As long as the winter temperatures in your area do not fall below 0ºF (-18ºC), you may plant the seeds in autumn, before the first frost. In colder climates or if convenient, plant the poppy seeds in spring, as soon as the ground thaws.
- The temperatures that allow for autumn planting correspond to United States Plant Hardiness Zones 7 and higher.[1]
- If the winter temperatures in your area fall below -20ºF (-29ºC), consider planting the cold-resistant Iceland poppy.
- Consider planting in several stages. If you divide your poppy seeds into groups and plant each group a week or two apart, your garden will have colorful flowers for a longer period of time. You may wish to plant half in the first week or two of spring, and the other half later in the spring to see which group suits your climate and poppy variety best.
- If you will be planting poppies in autumn, then you don't need to plant in stages.
- Select an area with full sun or partial shade. Generally, poppies grow best when they receive at least six hours of sunlight a day. However, if you live in a hot climate, select a spot where the poppies will be protected during the intense heat of the afternoon.
- Purple poppies may retain a brighter, more attractive color in partial shade than in full sun.[2]
- Test soil drainage. Soil with excellent water drainage is crucial, as poppies will rot in waterlogged soil. This is especially important during winter, when soil becomes wet or frozen. Begin testing by digging a hole 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Fill the hole with water, allow it to drain completely, then fill it a second time. Time how long it takes to drain again: this should take no more than four hours at the very most, and preferably less.
- Improve soil quality and drainage if necessary. If you cannot find a location in your yard with good drainage, try mixing the top 2 inches (5cm) of soil with compost and a little sand, or building a raised bed. Perennial poppies, which are able to live for longer than one year, may require compost or a store-bought garden soil to thrive even if the existing drainage is adequate.[3]
- Till the soil to loosen it if necessary. Use a shovel or tiller to loosen compact soil to a depth of approximately 8 inches (20cm). Poppy seeds grow one long taproot straight downward to collect water, and may not be able to push this important root through soil that is too hard.[4]
- Mix the poppy seeds with sand. Pour the poppy seeds in a small container such as a pill bottle or pepper shaker. Add some sand, roughly twice as much by volume as the poppy seeds, and stir or shake them together. Poppy seeds are tiny and can clump together when sown. The sand will help space the seeds out, making it easier to plant them evenly.
- Scatter the mixture of seeds and sand barely under the soil. Sprinkle the poppy seeds and sand directly on top of the soil, then cover the seeds with a light dusting of fine soil. Don't bury the seeds, as too much soil will block available sunlight and prevent the tiny poppy seeds from germinating.
- Avoid planting the seeds in clumps, which will interfere with growth. If you are planting poppies across a large area, take handfuls of seed and sand mixture and throw them out away from you as you walk across the garden or field.
- Water the newly-planted poppy seeds. Use a watering can or spray bottle rather than a strong hose, in order to prevent washing away the tiny poppy seeds. Keep the soil lightly moist once mild spring weather begins. Depending on the poppy variety, it should then take 10 to 30 days for the seeds to sprout.
[Edit]Caring for Poppy Plants - Water as necessary. Poppy plants may rot and die in soaked soils, so only water when the soil feels dry to a finger's depth. Typically, you only need to water the plants once every several days. Increase the amount of water per watering session in hot weather or if the poppies turn brown.
- Avoid watering plants during the early afternoon, especially in sunny weather. The heated water can burn the leaves, and it may evaporate before it can be absorbed.
- Reduce the chance of weeds. While it's a good idea to remove weeds competing with your poppies as you see them, young poppy plants are small and easily pulled up by accident or mistaken for undesirable plants. Reduce the ability of weeds to grow in the first place by spreading two to three inches (6 to 8 cm) of organic mulch around the plants. A mulch such as bark chips will look attractive, and will keep the soil moist.
- Cut out excess poppy plants once they've started to grow. Once the plants are one or two inches tall (2.5–5 cm), cut the smaller or weaker plants at the base using garden shears. Keep each remaining plant at least 6 inches (15cm) apart for the best chance at healthy growth and flowering.
- Do not pull the plants out as this may disturb the root systems of the neighboring poppies.
- Spacing plants out in this manner may also reduce the chance of mold and pest attacks, due to good air circulation and lower frequency of transmitting these problems from one plant to another.
- Fertilize only if necessary. If you wish to hasten the growing rate, or if your soil is poor, you may add fertilizer once the plants are at least 5 inches (13cm) tall, and preferably 10 inches (26cm) for taller species. Use a low nitrogen, neutral pH fertilizer and apply as instructed on the packaging.[5]
- Fertilizers display the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium using three numbers. A low nitrogen fertilizer will have a lower first number, for example 2-5-5.
- Remove dead blooms for additional flowers, or leave them on to cause the plants to seed. Removing the spent blooms where they meet the stalk will encourage the plant to keep blooming throughout the summer. If left alone, the plants will turn yellow and wilt, but after several weeks they will drop their seeds naturally and likely result in dozens of new plants next year.[6]
- Note that you should not cut off withered leaves from perennials if you would like them to remain healthy and bloom again next year.[7] Allow the leaves to die naturally, and hide the brown color with longer-blooming flower varieties if you wish to keep your garden colorful.
- Acquire seeds from your best plants. If you would like a new crop of poppy seeds, cut off the bulbous seed pods once they stand vertical and feel chalky to the touch. Dry them in the sunlight, cut them open, and shake them through a sieve over a container to catch the poppy seeds in.[8] Because each plant produces hundreds of seeds, limit your collection to the healthiest and most attractive plants.
[Edit]Transplanting Poppy Plants - Avoid transplanting adult plants where possible. Transplanting plants allow you to place the poppies more accurately, rather than casting them across the garden and seeing which seeds mature. However, due to their single, fragile taproot, poppies are easily killed during transplanting, especially large, adult plants. If possible, transplant poppy plants when they are young seedlings less than 3 inches (7.5cm) tall, and leave adult plants in their current container.
- If you must transplant adult, perennial poppy plants, try to do so in late summer, after the most active growth period but before they begin to seed.[9]
- Check the soil in your new location. Poppies require loose, well draining soil, and exposure to at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. Improve the soil by mixing in compost or manure if necessary.
- More detail can be found in the section on planting seeds.
- Transplant in the evening if possible. Poppies are infamously fragile after transplanting, and they are more likely to die if they are exposed to more sunlight. Transplant in the early evening whenever possible to give them a full night of darkness to adjust to their new situation.[10]
- Water the seedlings an hour before transplanting. It may take time for the poppies to adjust to the new location before the root begins to take in more water. Make sure they have at least some water stored already by watering them an hour or more before the transplant.[11]
- Dig a hole in the new location larger than the root ball. If you were growing your seedling in a small container, make the hole larger than the container. Otherwise, you may need to guess at the size required, or pull out an extra seedling you do not intend to grow to examine its size.
- Remove a clump of soil around the poppy plant carefully. If you are transplanting from a container of several seedlings, carefully gather the soil around a central seedling, detaching other seedlings in the soil or moving them to the edge of the pot. This central seedling should not be handled directly, in order to minimize the damage.
- Plant the poppy plant to the same depth in the new soil. Try to keep the plant buried at the same depth it was before. Move it as gently as possible to avoid damaging the roots. Pack the soil loosely around the plant. Water it to hold the soil together, then care for it as you would any poppy plant.
- If you plant poppies in pots, thin the young seedlings down to one per pot once they reach 1 inch (2.5cm) in height. Use a biodegradable pot that can be planted directly in the soil if you plan to move them to your garden later, since poppies handle transplants poorly.
[Edit]Warnings - Slugs can threaten young poppy seedlings. Protect the plants by using disposable, clear plastic cups as mini greenhouses until the plants have out-grown them. Cut a few holes near the top of the upside down cups and weigh them down with a rock.
- If mold has started growing on a poppy plant, you may attempt to treat with a gardener's fungicide, but the plant has a low chance of survival. Keep plants spaced out and reduce watering to prevent creating an environment where mold can thrive.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Manure or compost
- Poppy seeds
- Pill bottle or small container
- Sand
- Stick or hoe
- Hose and spray nozzle or watering can
- General purpose liquid or granular fertilizer
- Organic mulch
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Bathe an Infant Posted: 05 Mar 2022 04:00 PM PST Bathing a newborn for the first time can be a little daunting. It is important to keep babies safe and cozy, especially during their first few months, and that's tricky to do during bathtime. With the right supplies and a bit of practice, bathing your child can be a fun, playful experience, and the perfect time for the two of you to bond together. Read on to learn how to prepare for the bath, wash your baby safely, and make them comfortable after you're finished. [Edit]Prepare for Bath Time - Get everything ready in advance. Once the baby is in the bath, you won't be able to leave him or her for even a moment, so it's important to set out everything you need before you begin.[1]
- Gather what you need for the bath itself, including the tub, a cup for pouring water, gentle baby soap, two washcloths, and cotton balls for cleaning the baby's eyes and ears.
- Optionally, collect a few bath toys for the baby to play with.
- Lay out what you'll need after the bath, including a towel, a brush or comb, lotion or oil, a diaper, diaper ointment and a clean set of clothes nearby.
- Until the umbilical cord has fallen off, sponge bathes are probably the easiest way to wash the baby because dry cord care is currently recommended--just leaving the stump alone to let it fall by itself. Despite what you have heard, there is no need to use rubbing alcohol to clean baby's umbilical cord area if it is still attached.
- Dress in appropriate clothes. Wear something you don't mind getting wet and soapy. Roll up long sleeves, and remove jewelry like watches, rings, and bracelets. Make sure your clothes don't have zippers or pins that could scratch the baby's skin. Many caregivers like wearing a terrycloth bathrobe while bathing a baby.[2]
- Set up the tub. Most baby tubs available are shaped so as to support the infant's neck and head. They usually have a mat or sling that prevents the baby from being completely submerged in water. Place the baby bath in a clean sink, bathtub, or on the floor, depending on the manufacturer's instructions.
- If you don't have a baby bath, you may use a clean kitchen sink instead. Just make sure the tap does not touch the baby's head. Tap covers are available for baby-proofing your sink.
- Do not use a full-size adult bathtub to bathe a newborn baby.[3] They are too deep, and it's difficult to make sure the baby doesn't slip during the bath.
- If your baby bath doesn't have a tread on the bottom to keep the baby from slipping, line it with a washcloth or separate bath mat.
- Fill the tub with a few inches of warm water. Run the water and test the temperature. You may use your elbow, wrist or a special bath thermometer to make sure the water isn't too hot or cold for the baby. The water should be comfortably warm to the touch, but not as hot as you'd prefer for your own bath or shower.[4]
- If the baby still has his or her umbilical cord attached, simply fill a bowl with water so you can administer a sponge bath instead.
- Always test the water before placing the baby in the bath.
- When in doubt, err on the cooler side; your hands are rougher than a baby's sensitive skin, so he or she will feel heat more acutely than you.
- Do not fill the tub more than a couple of inches. Babies should never be submerged in water. As your baby gets a little bigger, you can add a bit more water, but never enough to come close to submerging the baby.
[Edit]Bathing Your Baby - Lay your baby in the tub feet first. Keep one hand supporting the baby's back, neck and head as you carefully lower him or her into the tub. Continue supporting the baby throughout the bath with one hand, and use the other hand to wash him or her.[5]
- Babies can be very wriggly and slippery, so be very careful once he or she becomes wet.
- Begin washing the baby. Use a cup, or your cupped hand, to get the baby's body wet. Use a soft washcloth to gently wash the baby's face, body, arms and legs.[6]
- Use cotton balls to wipe the baby's eyes and ears.
- If you wish, you can use a safe baby soap that is very neutral, but it isn't necessary; a gentle scrub and wash down are adequate to keep babies clean. Don't forget to get between all the little creases and behind the ears and under the neck, where spit-up and moisture tend to collect.
- Use a little baby soap on a washcloth to wash the baby's hands and feet.
- Clean the baby's genitals last, using a dab of baby soap if you wish. If you have a baby boy who is circumcised, gently wipe him with the wet washcloth. Wash girls from front to back to prevent infection.
- Wash the hair. If it is necessary to wash the baby's hair, lean him or her back and gently massage water into the hair and scalp. Use the cup to pour clean water over the baby's head. You can use baby shampoo if desired, but there is really no need. Babies are born with all the natural oils needed to keep the scalp healthy, and shampoos can easily spoil this balance.[7]
- If you use baby shampoo, use your hand to protect the baby's eyes from being irritated.
- Before rinsing, check again to make sure that the temperature of the running water is not too hot.
- Lift the baby from the tub. Support the baby's head, neck, and back with one arm, and hold his or her bottom and thigh with the other. Place baby in a towel, being careful to cover his or her head.
[Edit]After the Bath - Towel the baby dry. Dry the baby's body first, making sure to dry gently behind the ears and in the skin folds, so that no excess moisture is left there. Towel-dry the hair as much as possible.[8]
- Remember that the fine hair of a baby will dry quickly. Do not use a hairdryer, as it is unnecessary and potentially dangerous.
- Apply ointments if necessary. Dab a little ointment on the baby's diaper rash or circumcision wound if you've been advised to by a doctor.[9]
- It's OK to apply baby creams, lotions, or oils if you'd like, but these are unnecessary.
- If the baby still has his or her umbilical cord attached, use a cotton ball or dry sponge to gentle dry the area. No need to use rubbing alcohol.
- Put a nappy on and dress the baby.[10] If you're about to put your little one down to rest, choose an outfit that's easy to fit on him or her, preferably with snaps instead of buttons. You may also choose to swaddle the baby (see How to Swaddle a Baby for more information).
- Babies who still have their umbilical cords should be sponge-bathed until it falls off.
- Bath time is more than a utilitarian chore - it's a wonderful opportunity to bond and play. Relax, take your time when possible, and let everyone enjoy the experience. It's a great time to sing to your child. The baby will enjoy a great sensory experience, some attention, splashing, and more.
- For a real indulgence, warm the towels in the dryer.
- Babies only need to be bathed three or four times a week--or less. To clean the baby in between full baths, you can just spot clean areas prone to get dirty such as the diaper area, face, neck, and behind the ears.
- No need scrub baby's skin. Gentle pressure is adequate to clean baby's delicate skin.
- A bath before bedtime can be a nice ritual for some families and babies.
[Edit]Warnings - Make sure that the room in which you are bathing baby is warm.
- Avoid using adult bar soap on a baby; it is too drying.
- Be careful with the products you choose to use on the baby. There are lots of products marketed as baby soaps and shampoos, but not all of them with work well if your baby's skin. Watch out for signs of irritation or rashes.
- Don't even think about leaving a baby unattended in any amount of water! An adult needs to supervise a baby at all times.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Baby tub or clean sink
- Several clean towels
- Hooded towel (optional)
- Clean washcloths
- Clean diaper
- Clean set of baby clothes
- Cup (optional)
- Comfortably warm water
- Gentle baby shampoo (optional—see Tips & Warnings)
- Terrycloth bathrobe or clothes you can get wet
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Pare an Apple Posted: 05 Mar 2022 08:00 AM PST Paring an apple, or removing its peel, is not difficult once you know what to do. However, the sharp knife or vegetable peeler required to perform this task can cause cuts if held incorrectly. Take your time while you are learning how to pare for the first time, and always stop and readjust if you feel your grip slipping. [Edit]Paring an Apple with a Knife - Hold the apple in one hand. Hold the apple in your non-dominant hand, keeping it stable against your palm and fingers.
- Learn how to hold a short, sharp knife. Select a sharp knife no longer than the width of the apple, typically between 2 and 4 inches (5–10 cm) long. Hold it in your dominant hand, wrapping your fingers around the handle and the dull, back edge of the knife. Keep your arm straight, with the knife extending outward as though it were part of your arm.
- This type of knife is often called a paring knife, because of their use in this task.
- Hold the knife firmly against the surface of the apple. Hold the blade steady against the fruit by pushing gently against the dull edge of the blade. Make sure your grip on the knife is steady, with no wiggling, but don't strain or press against it.
- Most people start by holding the knife within 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the apple's top or bottom, at a point on the round portion of the apple's surface.
- Decide which way to point the knife. The best method for handling a paring knife depends on your level of comfort and control.[1] If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with knife use, or using a larger knife than instructed above, point the knife away from you to minimize the chance of cutting yourself if the knife slips. Once you have had some practice using a paring knife, and you know your grip is firm, you may find you have more control over the knife if you point your knife at a slight inward angle.
- Puncture the apple peel with your knife. Press the apple gently against the knife, until the peel is cut and the knife is resting under the surface of the peel.
- Rotate the apple to remove most of the peel. Turn the apple slowly against the blade of the knife, holding the knife steady in the same position or using minimal pressure to push it against the apple. Keep rotating the apple as the knife removes the peel, turning it in a spiral pattern until all the peel is removed. Leave the flattened ends of the apple alone for now.
- If the knife slips through the peel again, simple place it back onto the apple at any position where peel remains.
- Remove the ends of the apple. The top and bottom of the apple are typically more difficult to peel, due to their uneven shape. Hold the apple down against a cutting board, rounding your fingers into a "claw" shape so your fingertips are pressed onto the apple, but your knuckles are the closest part of your finger to the knife. Slowly press the knife down against the apple end until it is stable inside the apple, then push down hard to cut off the apple end.
- Do not attempt to cut the apple ends if the apple is sliding against the cutting board. Stop and make sure the apple and cutting board are both dry, instead, or try a different cutting board.
[Edit]Paring an Apple with a Vegetable Peeler - Cut off each end of the apple. This method of peeling is usually much quicker if you remove the uneven ends containing the stem, resulting in two parallel surfaces instead.[2] In preparation for cutting, hold the apple firmly against a cutting board with your non-dominant hand, curling your fingers inward in a "claw" shape. This keeps the tougher skin on your knuckles closer to the blade, which reduces the chance of a painful or serious injury when the knife slips.
- Identify your type of peeler. There are two main types of vegetable peeler. Straight peelers, with the metal section extending straight out of the handle like a knife, is meant to be pushed away from you. Y-shaped peelers have two "arms" forking out from the handle, with the metal blade extended between them. These work with a pulling motion instead. Some people tend to cut themselves more with one type than another, so if you find one peeler difficult to control, try the other type.
- Try holding the peeler like a pencil. You may have a steadier grip on your peeler, especially a Y-shaped peeler, if you place your thumb and index finger on opposite sides of the handle.[3] Curl your other fingers around the handle to make your grip firm.
- Grip the apple, keeping your fingers on the sides. Hold the apple firmly in your non-dominant hand, but keep your fingers on the sides of your apple, not on either end. Leave a wide strip of peel visible running between the two cut ends, with your fingers and knuckles nowhere near this path. Position your apple according to your type of peeler:
- If using a straight peeler, hold the apple so this strip is flat, angled so you can move the hand holding the peeler straight across it without bending your arm uncomfortably.
- If using a Y-shaped peeler, hold the apple so this strip is almost vertical, angled slightly away from you so you can pull the peeler down over this strip.
- Use the vegetable peeler to scrape off the first strip of peel. Double check that the apple and your fingers are in the position described above. Slowly draw the blade of the vegetable peeler from one of the cut surfaces to the other, removing the strip of peel. Remember, push a straight peeler away from you, but pull a Y-shaped peeler down toward you.
- Rotate the apple and repeat. Continue to remove short strips of peel until all of the peel has been removed. Consider holding the apple over a cutting board, bowl, sink, or trash can to catch the peel as you remove it.
- Practice moving slowly for at least three or four apples before you try to speed up. Even if you become comfortable cutting more quickly, switching to a different type or size of peeler may cause injury if you do not slow down and get used to it first.
[Edit]Using Apple Peels - Turn the apple peels into snacks. Toss the peels with a small pinch of cinnamon and sugar, adding a few drops of water to help the spices stick. Spread out the peels on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake at 120ºC (250ºF) for about 2 ½ hours, or until the apple peels are crisp and curled.[4]
- Make the peels into potpourri. Dry the apple peels for several hours in a dehydrator, or in an oven on the minimum setting. Mix them with spices, perfume, or other scented ingredients to create potpourri mixes. Place these in bowls around your home to cover unpleasant odors or add your own scent to a room.
- Add peels to homemade jam. Cut the peels into small pieces and add them to other fruit while making jam. If you have enough peels, apple cores, or other waste fruit, you may not need to add pectin, or reduce the amount of pectin you need to form jam.
- Start a compost. If your cooking creates a fair amount of waste ingredients, consider starting a compost. This can create high-quality soil for your garden, and reduce your impact on the environment. If you do not have a use for the compost yourself, ask your city government whether curbside compost pickup services are available.
[Edit]Warnings - If you cut yourself, wash the cut area immediately to reduce the chance of infection.
[Edit]Things You Need or - Vegetable peeler
- Any knife
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to Color White Chocolate Posted: 05 Mar 2022 12:00 AM PST To color chocolate, you'll need to melt it first. This is always a tricky process, and even more difficult with white chocolate, which burns easily. If possible, allow extra time to track down the right ingredients and work on a test batch. [Edit]Setting Up - Choose a white chocolate. The ingredient list should tell you whether a white chocolate is made with real cocoa butter, or with a cheaper vegetable oil substitute. Imitation products are less likely to seize (turn gritty) than chocolate made with real cocoa butter. Experts tend to back real chocolate in terms of taste, but some brands of imitation chocolate compete well in blind taste tests.[1]
- Use freshly purchased chocolate. Chocolate suffers in flavor and texture when stored too long, especially if it's the real deal.
- For detailed chocolate artwork, use a thin dipping or coating chocolate.
- Pick your food coloring. Even a drop of water can turn your melted chocolate into a gritty mess. For best results, buy powder or oil-based food coloring from a specialty baking store or online.[2] You can use the instructions below with regular liquid food coloring, but the process is much more difficult.
- Oil-based food coloring is best used for light colors, since too much of the coloring can add a bitter taste and stain mouths.[3]
- These food dyes are more concentrated than liquid dyes. They will stain clothing, skin, and countertops.
- Warm oil-based coloring in advance. As though keeping the chocolate dry weren't difficult enough, chocolate can also seize if the food coloring is a different temperature than the chocolate. If you are using oil-based food coloring, raise it above room temperature first. (Keep other types at room temperature.)
- Place the closed bottle in a zip-locked bag. Remove as much air from the bag as you can, then seal tightly.
- Submerge the bag in a bowl of warm water for 10–15 minutes. The water should feel comfortably warm to the touch, not scalding.
- Shake the bottle once or twice during the process to distribute heat evenly. Replace water if it has cooled to room temperature.
- Remove the bottle from the bag and dry it thoroughly.
- Bring a double boiler to a simmer. If you do not have a double boiler make one from a large pan, plus a heatproof mixing bowl or small pan that can sit atop the larger one. Start with just the large pan, uncovered. Heat 1–3 inches (2.5–7.5 cm) of water until it reaches a low simmer.
- Dry the top container and a stirring utensil thoroughly while you wait, even if they don't look wet. A rubber or silicone stirrer is ideal, since wooden spoons may contain absorbed moisture.[4]
[Edit]Melting and Coloring - Decide when to add the food coloring. The timing depends on which type of food coloring you are using. Read the full instructions below before you start, since you may need to change the order of the steps:
- Add powdered dye as soon as the chocolate starts to melt.
- You can add oil-based dye after the chocolate melts, as long as you warmed the dye as described above.
- Liquid dye is less likely to cause seizing if added right away, before the chocolate melts.[5] (This is why there is no need to warm the dye in advance.)
- Place the chocolate in the smaller container. Put the chocolate into the top portion of the double boiler, which should still be at room temperature. Place this container on top of the simmering pan. The indirect heat from the steam will warm the chocolate slowly, keeping it below seizing temperature.
- If using a chocolate bar, break it into small pieces of roughly equal size.
- Make sure your hands are completely dry. Any moisture could ruin your chocolate.
- If using chocolate with real cocoa butter, you may set aside 1/3 of the chocolate for later use. This is only necessary if you want your chocolates to look glossy.
- Stir until melted. White chocolate burns very easily, and should never get above 115ºF (46ºC).[6] Keep the heat on the lowest setting, or turn it off completely if melting a small batch of chocolate. Stir slowly and constantly until smooth, then remove from heat.
- If the instructions above call for adding the dye before the chocolate is melted, see below for more information.
- If melting a large batch of chocolate (several pounds or kilos), a chocolate thermometer or an instant-read thermometer with 1 degree increments is highly recommended.[7] Keep the chocolate between 100 and 110ºF (37–43ºC).[8]
- Add the dye slowly. Most powdered and oil-based food dyes are more concentrated than the common liquid type. Add in small increments and stir in thoroughly before deciding whether to add more.
- Shake bottled food coloring well before adding.
- If the chocolate seizes (turns gritty), remove it from heat and stir in a neutral-flavored vegetable oil a spoonful at a time. The chocolate will usually smooth out again, but this can affect the flavor.[9]
- Temper the chocolate (optional). If your white chocolate contains real cocoa butter, it may end up dull and slightly soft after melting and setting. This doesn't affect the taste, but you can restore the gloss if you like by "tempering" the chocolate. There are many ways to do this. Here's a common approach that doesn't require any extra equipment except an accurate thermometer:[10][11]
- Remove the chocolate from heat and wrap a towel around the base to keep it warm.
- Add chopped, unmelted chocolate until you have a ratio of 1 part unmelted chocolate to 2 parts melted.
- Stir constantly until the chocolate reaches 80–82ºF (27–28ºC), and all the chocolate has melted.
- Let the chocolate set. Many chocolatiers cool their chocolate slowly at room temperature, so it is less likely to crack or sweat. Others prefer to let it set in the refrigerator for 10–20 minutes, which may work better if your kitchen is warm or humid. Store your finished chocolate in a cool, dry room away from light.
- For best results, place paper towels in your refrigerator to absorb moisture.
- If you are pouring chocolate into molds or using it as a dip, keep it warm until you've finished working with it.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Double boiler (bain marie)
- Rubber or silicone spatula or stirrer
- Food coloring — powdered or oil-based strongly recommended
- Bowl & zip-locked bag (if using oil-based food coloring)
- Additional white chocolate for tempering (optional)
[Edit]Warnings - Melting chocolate is very difficult if humidity levels are above 50%. Run a dehumidifier in clammy weather.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Remove Permanent Marker from Tile Posted: 04 Mar 2022 04:00 PM PST There are several methods you can try to remove permanent marker from tile. The first method uses a homemade, all-purpose solution to remove the stain from the tile. For textured tile, use toothpaste (or the all-purpose solution) to treat the stain. Then, use a toothbrush or a scrub brush to remove the stain from textured tile. If your tile is smooth, a dry erase marker may do the trick. Always remember to test each method on a small, hidden area before applying it to larger areas. [Edit]Making a Homemade Cleaning Solution - Combine the ingredients. Combine of white vinegar, ¼ cup (35 g) of washing soda, of liquid dish soap, and of hot tap water in a bucket. Use a large spoon or another mixing tool to mix the ingredients. Mix until well combined.[1]
- If this recipe produces too much solution, then half the recipe.
- Test on a small surface. Apply the product to a hidden spot. Let it set for three seconds. Then use a paper towel or rag to remove the product. Look for any kind of stains, discoloration, or residue left by the product. If there are any unwanted effects, then choose a different method.[2]
- Before using any type of solution or product on your tile floors, always test out the product on a small, inconspicuous spot first. This way, you can ensure that the product you are using does not produce any unwanted effects such as stains or discoloration.
- Pour the solution onto a rag or a cloth. Then, begin wiping the stain with the rag. Wipe the spot until the stain is removed. If the affected area is large, pour more solution onto the rag as needed.[3]
[Edit]Removing Marker from Textured Tile with Toothpaste - Use regular white toothpaste. Do not use gel toothpaste. If possible, choose a toothpaste product that contains baking soda Toothpaste is great for removing marks from tile that is textured.[4]
- Apply the toothpaste to the mark. Cover the affected area with the toothpaste. Let the toothpaste set for a minute or two. The longer the stain has been on the tile, the longer you will want to let the toothpaste set.[5]
- For example, if the marker has been on the tile for a 24-hour period, then let the toothpaste set for at least 5 minutes.
- Use a sponge to wipe off the toothpaste. After the toothpaste has set, begin wiping it off with a sponge. If your tile is textured, then you may want to use a toothbrush or a scrubbing brush to remove traces of the stain from smaller crevices in the tile.[6]
- Once the stain is removed, clean the affected area with soap and water to remove any residue.
[Edit]Using a Dry Erase Marker on Smooth Tile - Purchase a black dry erase marker. You can purchase dry erase markers from your local pharmacy, arts and crafts store, or discounted retailer. Make sure to purchase a black dry erase marker as opposed to a colored one.[7]
- Remember to test a small, hidden area first before using it on larger, affected areas.
- Trace the affected area with the marker. Instead of tracing the entire stain, start by tracing a small part of the stain first. This method works best on smooth tile. For textured tile, the toothpaste or all-purpose solution may be more effective.[8]
- Wipe off the marker with a paper towel. Or you may use a rag or cloth to wipe off the traced sections. If the stain isn't completely removed the first time, then re-trace the remaining spots with the dry erase marker. Wipe until the stain is removed.[9]
- Use warm water and soap to clean the affected area after the stain is removed.
[Edit]Trying Other Removal Methods - Use melamine foam for a quick option. Melamine foam, commonly known as a "Magic Eraser," can quickly and easily remove permanent marker from various surfaces. Wet the foam, then use it to scrub the stained area. Keep scrubbing until all the marker is removed.
- Try hairspray if that's what you have on hand. Surprisingly, hairspray can be an effective cleaning agent. Simply spray the stain with hairspray and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Then, use a damp rag to scrub the stain away.
- Use nail polish remover if all else fails. Be sure to test this product on an inconspicuous area first, as it can damage your tile. If you don't see any negative results, apply a little nail polish remover to the marker stain. Wipe the stain away using a damp rag.
- Never mix cleaning products together. If one method does not work, then wash and dry the affected area before trying a different method.
- Always try to treat stains as soon as possible—the longer a stain sets the harder it is to remove.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - White vinegar
- Washing soda
- Liquid dish soap
- White toothpaste
- Dry erase marker
- Paper towels or rag/cloth
- Toothbrush or scrub brush
- Melamine foam
- Hairspray
- Nail polish remover
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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