| How to Use Household Items to Remove Shoe Odors Posted: 20 Mar 2022 09:00 AM PDT If your shoes have developed an unpleasant odor, this doesn't mean you have to throw the pair out. There are many household items you can make use of to eliminate shoe odor or kill the bacteria that often causes it. By eliminating the shoe stench, you can save yourself money and even preserve your favorite footwear. [Edit]Using Teabags - Steep black teabags in hot water. Black tea has a high concentration of tannins, a substance that works well for killing odor-producing bacteria in your shoes. Steep two teabags, one for each shoe, in boiling water for two to three minutes.
- To prevent yourself from getting burned by a hot teabag, you may want to use a utensil for removal. A spoon, fork, or tongs can help you safely remove your teabags.
- Allow your teabags to cool for a few minutes after removing it from the boiling water. This will make it easier to handle with your fingers.
- For light odors, a single teabag per shoe may be enough to rid it of its bad smell. Odors that are especially strong may require several teabags.
- Insert one teabag into each shoe. The teabags should still be moist from being steeped. The moisture will allow the tannins to seep into the insole of your shoe to more effectively fight the odor-causing bacteria.[1] For very strong odors, you may want to layer extra teabags along the entire length of each insole from the toe of the shoe to its heel.
- Leave the teabags in your shoes for about an hour. An hour should be enough for the treatment to lessen or eliminate the odor in your shoes. Then, remove your teabags, wipe up any remaining moisture, and allow your shoes to air dry.
- In bad odor cases, you may want to let your teabags sit in your shoes for up to two hours.
- You can speed the drying process along with a blow drier. Simple point the blow drier so the hot air blows into the shoe until the shoe is completely dry.
[Edit]Using Essential Oils - Drip essential oils on the insoles of your shoes. Choose an essential oil that both fights bad smells and suits your preferences. Some popular oils for you to consider include tea tree, clove, and peppermint oil. A few drops on each insole should be sufficient to mask the smell.
- If you have difficulty dripping the oil on the insole of your shoe or getting the oil into the toe of a shoe, you could soak a cotton ball or two in the oil. Then, push the cotton ball into the toe of the shoe.[2]
- Distribute the oil across the insole. To spread the odor fighting properties of the oil throughout your shoe, you'll need to spread it around the entire insole. To do this, you can use your fingers or an applicator, like a cotton swab. Keep in mind that essential oils have a potent scent. Using your fingers could leave your hands smelling like the oil for a while.
- Be careful to keep the oil from coming in contact with the outside of the shoe, or any visible part of it. Some materials can be stained by essential oils, especially oils that are dark in color.
- For extra odor fighting potential, you can mix a few drops of essential oil in with a heaping spoonful of baking soda, which absorbs bad smells. Stir these ingredients together in a small bowl, then spread it liberally over the insole.[3]
- Stuff your shoes with oil-scented paper. Newspaper works well for this purpose. Crumple the paper into balls, add a few drops of essential oil, and stuff your shoes with the paper. The paper will absorb moisture from your shoe and create a less hospitable environment for odor causing bacteria. [4]
- You can remove and throw away the paper when the odor vanishes. A few hours might be enough to free your shoes from the unpleasant smell, but bad cases can best be treated by leaving the paper in overnight.
- You may want to check your shoes after a few hours have passed. Remove the paper and give your shoes a sniff to see if the odor has dissipated. If it has not, replace the paper and allow more time to pass before removing the paper for good.
[Edit]Using Cat Litter - Fill two clean socks with clean cat litter. To prevent the cat litter from spilling inside or around your shoes, you should tie off the top of each litter filled sock with a simple knot. You can also put cat litter directly into your shoes, though litter can sometimes get caught in the crevices of your shoe and cause you discomfort later on.
- In place of socks, you could also use pantyhose. The thin material of these will form less of a barrier between the odor fighting elements of the litter and the bad smelling parts of your shoe.[5]
- To give your cat litter a little more punch, you might consider adding some baking soda to it. Simply add a heaping spoonful to each sock, tie each off at the top, and shake or massage the socks to distribute the baking soda.[6]
- Place the cat litter filled socks into your shoes.[7] If you notice that your socks cause your shoes to deform or otherwise change shape, you may want to remove some litter from the socks. You'll be leaving the litter filled sock in your shoes for a long period of time, and a sock that is too full might alter the shape of your shoe.
- If you find that your socks are too full, hold your socks over a garbage can while unknotting the tops. This way, stray litter will be contained in the garbage, preventing a mess.
- Leave the socks in your shoes overnight. In most cases, it should only take a night for the odor fighting properties of the cat litter to eliminate the smell. Especially bad cases, however, might take more time. You can check the odor of your shoes by removing the sock briefly and smelling the shoe. If you notice a lingering odor, you should leave the litter filled socks in the shoe for longer.[8]
- Once the odor is removed from your shoes, you can throw away the cat litter and wash the socks as you would normally.
- If the cat litter is still good enough to use in a litter box, you may want to reuse the litter there.
- Give your shoes a thorough inspection after you've removed the litter filled socks. Small pieces of litter can sometimes push through the fabric of the sock and become an irritant later when you wear the shoes.
[Edit]Using Fabric Softener Sheets - Tuck fabric softener sheets into your shoes. You may be more familiar with softener sheets by the name of dryer sheets, but in either case, the odor fighting properties of this product are perfect for de-stinking shoes. You can simply push a sheet into each shoe, or you can slip one underneath each insole.
- Used dryer sheets can also be used to combat shoe odor. This is a great way to recycle, and will leave your shoes smelling laundry-fresh.
- Wear your shoes with dryer sheets. Dryer sheets are relatively thin and light, and the heat of your foot will help release its odor fighting ingredients.[9] However, sometimes dryer sheets can bunch up in the toes of your shoe and become uncomfortable. If you find this happens to you, leaving dryer sheets in your shoes while you're out and about might not be the best option.
- Most sheets will last about a week before the odor fighting potential is lost.
- Once your dryer sheets stop smelling fresh, you can throw it out and replace it with a fresh one.[10]
- Remove the dryer sheets when the odor is gone. If your shoes have thin insoles or you have sensitive feet, or if you find that dryer sheets uncomfortably wad up in your shoes, you may only want to use dryer sheets when your shoes are off.
- A few hours with dryer sheets inserted will usually be enough to chase away the stink.
- Severe cases might benefit from a night spent with dryer sheets inserted in each shoe.
[Edit]Using Disinfectant Sprays - Choose a suitable spray. The odor coming from your shoes is often the product of bacteria and sweat.[11] You should choose a spray that is anti-bacterial to kill the odor creating germs, but you might also want to use an anti-fungal foot powder. Molds and other kinds of fungi thrive in dark, moist environments, and an anti-fungal could help your foot odor problem.[12]
- Some common disinfecting sprays include Lysol, Smelleze, and Dr. Scholl's foot spray.
- Most of these products can be found at your local drug store or pharmacy.
- Spray the inside of your shoe. Pick your shoes up one at a time and spray a liberal amount of your disinfectant/deodorizing spray inside. It may be easiest for you to hold your shoe upside down and point the sprayer toward the toes of your shoes. This way, the spray spreads throughout the entire length of your shoe.
- Allow the shoes to dry and respray as needed. Your shoes should air dry quickly after being sprayed with disinfectant/deodorizer. If you applied your disinfectant/deodorizer in the evening or before going to bed, in the morning it should be dry.
- For daytime deodorizing, you can speed the drying process by leaving your shoes in the sun.
- If the smell comes back later, repeat this process.
[Edit]Freezing Odor out of Your Shoes - Place your footwear into a plastic bag. If you don't put your shoes in a bag before freezing, your shoes might become frozen to your freezer. A large, resealable plastic bag is highly recommended.[13] Using an open mouthed bag, like a grocery bag, can sometimes cause the shoe stink to transfer to your freezer.[14]
- Put your shoes into a freezer. Many kinds of bacteria, but especially foot odor causing bacteria, are weak to cold.Leave your shoes in your freezer for anywhere from 12 to 24 hours. Mild odor might be eliminated quickly, but the longer you allow your shoes to freeze, the more likely the odor causing bacteria will die.
- If you live in a cold part of the world or a place with cold winters, you may be able to leave your shoes outside to kill the bacteria. However, you might want to cover the tops of your shoes to prevent snow from blowing in.
- Thaw and dry your shoes. Fresh from the freezer, you might not be able to tell right away if your shoe odor is gone. As the shoe thaws, it should become apparent whether or not your odor problem has been resolved.
- If the odor remains, freeze your shoe again, allowing even more time for the cold to work on the bacteria. After this, the odor should be gone.
- To speed the drying process, you might try putting your shoes in a clothes dryer, though this method may be damaging to more delicate pairs of shoes.
- A blow dryer can also be used to thaw/dry your shoes, though this might take a while.
- Sometimes the insoles of your shoe have taken on a strong odor, but the shoe itself may be fine. Replacing your old insole with a new one could solve your shoe odor problem.
- Many kinds of odor creating bacteria thrive in dark, moist environments. You might be able to keep your shoes from developing an unpleasant funk by regularly sprinkling talcum powder inside each shoe.[15]
[Edit]References |
| How to Remove Grass Stains from Clothing Posted: 20 Mar 2022 01:00 AM PDT It's fun watching your children frolic and play in the grass until you find dreadful grass stains. Grass stains are like a dye stain, which means they are difficult to remove. This is due to the complex proteins and coloring of the grass pigments. While difficult and annoying, they can be removed with the proper mixtures and some elbow grease. [Edit]Preparing Garments - Check the clothing label. On the inside of your garment, there is a care label. Reading this label will give you an idea of what you can use on your garment safely.[1]
- For example, an empty triangle is the symbol for bleach. If the triangle is black with a large "X" through it, you cannot use bleach of any sort. If the triangle is striped black and white, you can use non-chlorine bleach only.[2]
- Read the product information. Before using any cleaning product or detergent, read the label. The label can help identify which products are best for which garment. It can also tell you if it is safe on the type of garment you are using.[3]
- For example, a detergent with bleach will be best for a white garment, but may not be the best choice for a dark colored garment.
- Test on a small area. Before putting anything on a stained item of clothing, do a test spot first. A test spot will allow you to check that you can use your stain removal solution on the clothing without causing permanent damage like changing the colour.[4]
- The inside hem is a great location to test a solution because it is very inconspicuous.[5]
- Remove any excess dirt or grass. Before doing anything with your item, you should remove excess dirt or grass from the stained location. Blot, rather than rub, to try get the excess out. Rubbing will only cause the stain to move further into your clothing.
- Struggling to get some dirt off? Try holding the clothing taut between your fingers, and flicking from the inside of the garment. This should forcefully fling off any excess mud.
[Edit]Removing With Liquid Detergent and Vinegar - Pretreat the stain. After you've removed excess dirt and grass, you should pre-treat your grass stain for the best removal. Pretreat by dabbing a 50/50 mixture of warm water and white vinegar. Saturate the stain well to ensure deep penetration by the vinegar.[6] Allow the watered down vinegar to sit for five minutes.
- Never use fruit vinegar for stain treatment. Only use plain white vinegar.[7]
- You can also dampen the stain with cold water.[8]
- Apply detergent directly. After your vinegar solution has sat on the clothing item for five minutes, apply laundry detergent directly to the stain. If available, use a detergent that has bleach. Bleach contains enzymes which help break down grain stains.[9]
- Try using a dime-sized amount of detergent, or just enough to cover the stain.[10]
- Using powder detergent? Try mixing a dash of water into the powder to make it paste-like, then spread over the stain.
- Massage the stain. Once you've applied the detergent, massage the stain. You want to massage gently, as to not ruin the clothing, but firmly, to ensure you get deep into the stain. The longer you massage the more effective the treatment is likely to be. After massaging for several minutes, allow the detergent to sit.[11]
- Use a clean toothbrush to the brush over the stain.[12]
- Rinse and check. Once the stain has sat for 10-15 minutes, give it a rinse with cold water. Check to see if the stain has been removed. It should be significantly fainter, if not completely removed. If the stain isn't banished, you can safely repeat the process with water, vinegar, and detergent until the garment is stain-free.[13]
- Let your garment hang-dry after you've spot treated the stain.[14]
[Edit]Removing With Alcohol - Wet the stain with isopropyl alcohol. Isopropyl alcohol is a solvent that will dislodge any color from stains. This includes the green pigment left behind by grass. To wet the stain, take a sponge or cotton swab and generously dab with alcohol.[15]
- Rubbing alcohol, also known as isopropyl alcohol, works on removing grass stains because it dissolves the green pigment left behind in a grass stain.
- If you're working on a delicate fabric, try a 50:50 solution of water and alcohol. Note that adding water means it may take longer to dry.
- Air dry and rinse. Allow the stain to complete air dry before moving forward. The alcohol will evaporate out of the stain and most of the pigment should be dislodged. After the stain is dry, rinse it with cool water.[16]
- Using cool water prevents the stain from setting. Use of hot water, or heat at all, will set the stain and make it more difficult to remove.
- Apply liquid detergent. Apply a small amount of detergent to the stain. Massage for at least five minutes, but the longer the better. Once you're satisfied with your massaging, rinse the stain with cold water until the water runs clear.[17]
- Check the stain. Allow the garment to air dry. Once it is dry, check to see if the stain is gone. If not, repeat the process. If the stain has been removed, you can launder the item as normal.
[Edit]Removing With DIY-Stain Remover - Mix your DIY-remover. If you've got a particularly stubborn grass stain, try using a homemade stain remover. Mix ¼ cup bleach, ¼ cup peroxide and ¾ cups cold water into a container. The combination of hydrogen peroxide with bleach will work as an incredible stain remover.
- When working with bleach and peroxide, mix in a well-ventilated area to prevent inhalation of fumes.
- Never substitute bleach with ammonia. Ammonia is known to immediately set a stain.[18]
- Bleach is known to change the color of a garment. Always spot test on an inconspicuous location before applying the mixture to the stain.
- Apply, massage and let sit. Place your homemade solution onto the stained area. Allow it to saturate the stain. Next, massage it in gently. Once you've massaged for several minutes, put the garment somewhere safe and allow it to sit. Ideally your solution can sit on your clothing for 30-60 minutes, but longer is better.
- Rinse and check. Once your item has finished sitting, give it a thorough rinse. Check to see if the stain has disappeared. If there is still traces, feel free to apply your DIY-remover again. If it is gone, you can launder the clothing as normal.
- Do not dry the item until you're sure the stain has been removed. Any heat will set the stain permanently.
- The sooner you treat the grass stain, the better. The longer the stain sits the more difficult it will be to remove.
[Edit]Warnings - Laundry detergents and cleaning products are harmful to mucus membranes and skin. Always protect yourself when working with chemicals by wearing gloves if handling, and keeping the mouth closed.[19]
- If a chemical is put into your eye, rinse your eyeball with water for 15 minutes and call your local physician.[20]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make Deep Fried Chicken Posted: 19 Mar 2022 05:00 PM PDT Chicken that has been deep-fried is famous comfort food that is appreciated all around the world. To create your own batch, first, marinate the chicken in buttermilk before dredging it in flour. The chicken should then be fried till golden brown in heated oil. To ensure that the chicken is fully cooked, use a meat thermometer to check the temperature. Finally, serve the chicken with typical Southern side dishes, a sandwich, or a chicken and waffles meal. [Edit]Ingredients - Eight chicken pieces (drumsticks, thighs, breasts, wings)
- 1 quart (0.9 liters) buttermilk
- 4 teaspoons salt
- 1 teaspoon pepper
- 2 cups (240 grams) flour
- 1 tablespoon baking powder
- 1 tablespoon garlic powder
- 1 tablespoon onion powder
- Approximately 5 cups (1.5 liters) frying oil
[Edit]Battering the Chicken - Marinate the chicken. Combine (.9 liters) buttermilk, 4 teaspoons salt, and one teaspoon of pepper into a large bowl. Stir the ingredients to combine them. Next, place all of the chicken pieces into the marinade, pressing them into the liquid to completely coat them.[1]
- Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator for 4-24 hours.
- Wash any surfaces that touched raw chicken, including your hands.
- Bring the chicken to room temperature. If you try to fry cold chicken, your chicken pieces will cook unevenly. To reheat the chicken, place the bowl of chicken and marinade on your kitchen counter for thirty minutes.[2]
- Don't leave your chicken out for more than thirty minutes. If you do, the chicken may go bad.
- Combine the dry ingredients. Place an extra-large resealable plastic bag on your counter. Combine 2 cups (240 grams) of all-purpose flour, of baking powder, 1 tablespoon of garlic powder, and one tablespoon of onion powder in the re-sealable bag. Close the bag and shake it thoroughly to incorporate the ingredients. If desired, add additional seasoning. For example
- Add a teaspoon of paprika or cayenne for a spicy kick.[3]
- For Cajun fried chicken, add 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper, and 5 dashes of Louisiana hot sauce.[4]
- Add 2 teaspoons crumbled dried oregano, 2 teaspoons crumbled dried sage, and 2 teaspoons crumbled dried thyme to add an herbal fragrance to the fried chicken.
- Coat the chicken in flour. Use tongs or clean fingers to move a piece of chicken from the marinade into the re-sealable bag of flour. Seal the bag and shake it well to coat the chicken in flour. Open the bag and transfer the floury chicken to a plate. Repeat this step for each piece of chicken.
- Coat one piece of chicken at a time to avoid incorporating any liquid into the flour.
- Coat the chicken again. Once all of the pieces have gotten their first coat of flour, repeat the coating process. First, gently dip a floury piece of chicken in the marinade to moisten the surface. Next, place the piece of chicken back in the flour bag. Shake the bag to completely coat the chicken with the second layer of flour. Repeat this step for the rest of the chicken pieces.[5]
- Place the freshly coated chicken pieces on a new plate. This will help you know which pieces you've already coated twice.
- Coat one piece of chicken at a time. If you don't, the flour bag will absorb too much moisture and will become a thick batter.
[Edit]Deep-Frying the Chicken - Choose a deep-frying method. You can either fry your chicken on the stove or use a deep-frying appliance. If you decide to use a pot, choose a deep pot with thick sides. If you use a deep fryer, follow the manufacturer's instructions when frying chicken.
- Cast iron pots such as Dutch Ovens are great for deep frying.[6]
- Deep fryers can be purchased online or at cooking supply stores.
- Fill the pot or deep-fryer with frying oil. Leave about 4 inches (10 centimeters) of space at the top to allow for splattering. Choose a frying oil that has a high smoke point. These oils will fry your food at the right temperature without giving them a sour, burned flavor. High smoke point oils include:
- Peanut oil (avoid if you have nut allergies)
- Sunflower oil
- Safflower oil
- Soybean oil
- Vegetable shortening
- Lard[7]
- Heat the oil to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (175 degrees Celsius). If you're using a fryer, follow the manufacturer's recommendations when heating the oil. Place the oil on your stove over medium-high heat if you're using a pot. Check the temperature of the oven after a few minutes. For an exact measurement, use a candy thermometer to find the oil temperature. Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a thermometer.
- If you don't have a candy thermometer, place a wooden spoon into the hot oil. If the oil bubbles around the spoon, the oil is hot enough.
- Alternatively, throw a pinch of flour into the oil. If the oil bubbles around the flour, the oil is hot enough. If it turns black within a few minutes, the oil is too hot. Reduce the heat slightly.[8]
- Fry a batch of chicken. Use tongs or a slotted metal spoon to place a few pieces of chicken in the hot oil. Each piece of chicken should be able to rest without touching any other pieces of chicken. If you add too much chicken, you will overcrowd the pan.
- If you overcrowd the pan, the oil will cool quickly and the chicken won't fry properly.
- If you're using a deep fryer, lift the metal basket, place the chicken inside, and lower it into the hot oil.
- Brown the chicken. Cook the chicken in the hot oil for 15-20 minutes, turning the pieces if necessary.[9] If the batter turns dark brown after just a few minutes, your oil is too hot. Reduce the temperature. After about fifteen minutes of frying, look for signs that the chicken is ready. For example
- Properly fried chicken has a golden-brown crust.
- Clear juices will leak out of the chicken, even when it's frying in the oil. If the chicken isn't done, pink juices will leak out of it.
- Dark meat takes more time to cook than light meat. Keep an eye on any chicken breasts or wings.[10]
- Test the temperature of the chicken. Use tongs to move a large piece of chicken from the oil to a plate. Next, use a meat thermometer to know the internal temperature of the chicken. To do so, stick the metal end of the thermometer into the thickest part of the biggest piece of chicken. The temperature should be at least 165 degrees Fahrenheit (74 degrees Celsius.)[11]
- If you don't have a meat thermometer, check the chicken by cutting it into the largest part with a knife. If the meat appears raw, cook the chicken for a few more minutes.
- Place the batch on a wire rack to cool. Some people like to place the chicken on a plate lined with a paper towel to soak up excess oil. However, this method will steam the surface of the chicken, creating soggy fried pieces. Instead, place the fried chicken on a wire rack set on a baking sheet. This will help the chicken to become more crispy and delicious.
- Let the chicken cool for ten minutes before serving.[12]
- You can pat the chicken with paper towels to remove some excess grease.
[Edit]Serving Fried Chicken - Serve fried chicken with Southern sides. In many Southern states, such as Texas, Louisiana, and Kentucky, fried chicken is eaten as a main dish with a variety of succulent side dishes. There are many different side dishes to choose from, but some common dishes consists of:
- Make chicken, and waffles. This combination may sound strange if you've never done it before. However, this dish is very popular in many Southern states. The meaty crunch of fried chicken pairs deliciously with a plate of buttery, sweet waffles.
- Some people like to cover their chicken and waffles in maple syrup, while others prefer to make a Dijon cream sauce from Dijon mustard, cream, and thyme.
- Create a fried chicken sandwich. This method is very suitable for boneless fried chicken. First, choose a bun. Many people prefer a toasted wheat sandwich roll, but you can use any kind of bread you like. Next, place your fried chicken on the bun and add any desired toppings.[13] Popular toppings include:
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Play Stratego Posted: 19 Mar 2022 09:00 AM PDT Stratego is a two player game that requires memory and strategy skills. The goal is to be the first player to capture your opponent's Flag or to capture all of your opponent's moveable pieces. You do this by attacking your opponent's army pieces with your own army pieces.[1] Each army piece has a different rank and some pieces have special abilities. During your turns you can either move a piece or attack one of your opponent's pieces. Get the game, learn the rules, and you will be all ready to start playing Stratego. [Edit]Preparing to Play the Game - Set up the board. Each Stratego set comes with a 10X10 board to play on. The board is large enough to accommodate both players' armies plus non-moving pieces. The board has two 2X2 lake areas on it that pieces cannot move through and that act as the barrier space when you first set up the game. Do not place any pieces on or near these spots when you set up the game. Keep the two center rows of the board empty until the game has started.[2]
- Get familiar with the army pieces. Each Stratego game comes with two sets of army pieces (one red and one blue). Each army has 33 army pieces and every piece is ranked from 1-10 (1 is the lowest rank and 10 is the highest rank). Each set also includes 6 Bombs and 1 Flag, but these pieces are not ranked and they do not move. Only the army pieces may move and attack. Each army set includes: [3]
- 10: 1 Marshall
- 9: 1 General
- 8: 2 Colonels
- 7: 3 Majors
- 6: 4 Captains
- 5: 4 Lieutenants
- 4: 4 Sergeants
- 3: 5 Miners
- 2: 8 Scouts
- 1: 1 Spy
- Choose your army color. Since there are two sets, you and your opponent will each have to choose a color before you can set up the game. Try choosing at random by holding two different color pieces in each hand (so your opponent cannot see them) and ask your opponent to choose one. Whatever color your opponent chooses will be his or her color for the game.[4]
- Put up the fortress screen. Before you set you your army pieces, you will need to set up the fortress screen to prevent your opponent from seeing how you are positioning your pieces. Do not remove the fortress screen from the board until you and your opponent have finished setting up the board.[5]
- Set up your pieces. As you set up your pieces, make sure that they are facing you and not your opponent. Your opponent should not be able to see the types of your pieces and you should not be able to see the types of your opponent's pieces. After you have set up your pieces, you are ready to play.[6]
[Edit]Playing the Game - Understand how gameplay works. During each of your turns, you may either move or attack an opponent's piece. You may not do both. If you find yourself in a position where you cannot move or attack, then you have lost the game and must announce your defeat to your opponent.[7]
- Move your pieces. Take turns moving your pieces in vertical or horizontal directions. Pieces may not move in a diagonal direction. Pieces may only move one space, except for the Scouts which can move an unlimited distance. Just keep in mind that because only scouts can move more than one space per turn, moving a scout more than one space will reveal its identity to your opponent and may cause your opponent to attack that piece.[8]
- Pieces cannot jump over the lake or over other pieces. They also may not occupy the same space as another piece.[9]
- Pieces cannot move back and forth between the same two spaces over three consecutive turns.
- Attack your opponent's pieces. Attack your opponent's pieces to reduce his or her numbers and capture your opponent's Flag. You may only attack pieces that are directly next to your pieces. They may not be a space away or diagonal to one of your pieces. They must be right next to each other in a vertical or horizontal direction.[10]
- When you attack your opponent (or your opponent attacks you) you must both announce the rank of your piece that attacked (or was attacked). Whatever piece has the highest ranking wins the fight. Remove the losing piece from the board. If both pieces have the same rank, then remove both pieces from the board.
- Place captured pieces in the tray as you play. Doing so will help to keep them organized for future games.
- Place the winning piece on the space that was occupied by the losing piece.[11]
- Observe the special attack privileges of certain pieces. Some pieces have special attack privileges that make them capable of attacking more powerful pieces. Make sure that you observe these special attack privileges as you play the game.[12]
- The Spy can capture the Marshal if the Spy attacks first. If the Spy is attacked by the Marshal, then the Spy is captured instead.
- Scouts can move and attack on the same turn. No other pieces can do both in the same turn
- Miners can disarm Bomb pieces. All other pieces must be removed from the board if they attack a Bomb piece.
- Win by capturing your opponent's Flag or all of your opponent's moveable pieces. Whoever captures his or her opponent's Flag first wins the game. But you may also win the game if your opponent reaches a point where he or she cannot make any more moves. For example, if all of the player's moveable pieces have been captured or blocked, then that player would lose the game.[13]
[Edit]Using Strategy - Protect your flag with Bombs. A common strategy in Stratego is to surround one's Flag with Bomb pieces to prevent players from accessing it. However, this strategy may fail if your opponent uses a miner to defuse these Bombs and then captures your Flag. If you do surround your Flag with Bombs, make sure that you have some high ranking, moveable pieces nearby to take out any approaching pieces.[14]
- Keep your Miners in play. Since surrounding the Flag piece with Bombs is a popular strategy, you will benefit from keeping some of your Miner pieces in play. Having Miners on hand will help you to defuse Bomb pieces later in the game and hopefully capture your opponent's flag.[15]
- Position some Scouts in the first two rows. Scouts are helpful in identifying your opponent's frontline pieces, so it is a good idea to keep some Scouts in your front row. Since Scouts are low-ranking pieces, you can afford to lose a few in the first few turns if it helps you to identify some of your opponent's higher ranking pieces.[16]
- Make some higher ranking pieces available for movement. Although you do not want to have all of your high-ranking pieces up front, it is wise to have a few in your first two rows so that you can use them if necessary. Otherwise, your opponent's high-ranking pieces may take out an entire row of your low-ranking pieces before you can stop him or her.[17]
- Pay attention to the positions of pieces that do not move. Stratego requires you to use your memory skills and pay attention to what pieces are where as your opponent attacks. It is also helpful to note the pieces that never move during the game. These pieces are likely to be Bombs, so you may want to send your Scouts to check them out or send Miners to defuse them.[18]
- Try different arrangements every time you play the game to see what strategy works for you. If you often play the same opponent, make sure that you change your strategy often.
[Edit]Warnings - Do not line your front row with bombs because they cannot move! If you block yourself in, then you lose the game.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Teach Your Pet Not to be Scared of the Vacuum Cleaner Posted: 19 Mar 2022 01:00 AM PDT Most house pets have a fear of vacuum cleaners. The fact that they are large, and quite noisy, makes this fear understandable. Most pets run away as soon as the cleaner comes out, and cats might even hide under the bed. However, with a little work, you can help your pet overcome its fear of the vacuum cleaner. [Edit]Acclimating Your Pet - Store the vacuum in an open area. When the vacuum cleaner is not in use, place it where your pet can easily see it. Being around the vacuum while it is not making noise should help your pet view the cleaner as something other than a threat.[1]
- Keep the vacuum low to the ground. Make sure the vacuum is as close to the ground as possible. Adjust the upright section of the vacuum so that it is lying on the ground or is as close to the ground as possible. Reducing the overall height of the vacuum may make it seem less imposing to a pet.
- Allow your pet to investigate the vacuum. Move the cleaner to where the pet is sitting while it is turned off and allow the animal to look at and smell it.[2] Pets go by scent as well as sight. Once they get used to seeing and smelling the vacuum, they should naturally be less afraid.[3][4]
- Never place the vacuum cleaner where your animal likes to sleep or eat. This might only work to make them afraid of those areas, causing further problems.
- If you have a cat that you are trying to acclimate to a vacuum, never place the vacuum by its litter box.[5]
- Reward your pet whenever they show interest in the vacuum.[6]
- Make the vacuum more familiar. Try placing a towel or sheet the animal uses on the vacuum cleaner while it is turned off. Your pet may want to get closer to the vacuum because it smells familiar or because it has something the animal wants on top of it.[7]
- Place a treat on the vacuum. When the vacuum is lying on the ground in the off position, try placing a treat on top of it and see whether or not your pet tries to retrieve the treat. Animals will become much more steadfast in their resolve when a treat is involved.[8][9]
- Utilize an animal's toys. Animals can be quite territorial when it comes to their favorite toys. Take a toy you know your pet loves and place on the vacuum cleaner while it is off. Over time, the animal may come to associate the vacuum cleaner with one of its play things.[10]
- Turn the vacuum on. Now that your pet has had the chance to investigate the vacuum while off, try turning the vacuum on. Your pet will probably run away because of the noise, but it might keep looking at the vacuum from a distance, showing more curiosity than fear.[11][12]
- Keep the vacuum stationary. While the vacuum is on and making noise, leave it in one place. If it is not moving, but still making noise, your pet may choose to be brave and approach the vacuum. At the very least, it may get a little bit closer, signaling a minor victory.[13]
- Be sure to reward your pet for any attempts to get close to the vacuum with treats or toys.[14]
- Keep your distance. Try to vacuum at a distance from the animal. Do not go too close while they watch you. After a while, they might be braver and actually follow you around as you vacuum.[15]
- Reward the animal after vacuuming. When you finish vacuuming the desired area, turn the vacuum off and offer your pet a treat, toy or reward.[16] If your dog loves going for walks, take him out for a walk immediately after vacuuming. If your cat likes wet food, give it a can when you have finished vacuuming. If you do this consistently, the animal will come to associate the vacuum with activities it enjoys.[17]
- Try talking to your pet. Talking to your pet in a calm voice while vacuuming may help it realize that the vacuum is not something to be feared. Animals take verbal and non-verbal cues from their humans. Try calling the pet over to you with a friendly and calm demeanor while the vacuum is running. Its eagerness to follow your commands may be enough to help your pet overcome its fear.
[Edit]Using Alternative Methods - Look into sound therapy. Have a look at the Sound Therapy 4 Pets website. They have a number of CDs that prepare and treat dogs that have sound phobias. While not always effective, getting your animal used to the sound without the sight of the vacuum could help the animal overcome its fear.[18][19]
- Purchase a quiet vacuum. All vacuums make some noise, but many vacuums are designed to limit and almost eliminate the amount of noise they make. If your pet is really scared of your vacuum, try buying one that isn't as noisy.[20]
- Be patient. While some pets will fear the vacuum cleaner their entire lives, some pets just need to get used to its presence. If you have young pets, simply go through your vacuuming routine as usual. Over time, they may get used to it and lose their fear. [21]
- Use clicker training. If your pet has been trained with a clicker, try using the clicker to get the animal used to the vacuum. Start with the vacuum off and click while dropping a treat when the animal comes around the vacuum. Once the animal is close, run the vacuum very briefly and turn it off again. While you are doing this, click and drop a treat for the animal before it has the chance to react to the noise.[22]
- Once the animal has gotten used to the sound of the vacuum, try using the clicker method while moving the vacuum around your pet.[23]
- While they might get familiar with the noise and look of the cleaner, most household pets, will still remain at a distance as you vacuum. Do not be concerned.
[Edit]Warnings - Do not tease animals with the vacuum cleaner or make believe you are going to push it onto them. While it might look like fun for you, it truly scares the animal.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make a Sand Timer from Recycled Plastic Bottles Posted: 18 Mar 2022 05:00 PM PDT Lots of things take two minutes or less, such as hearing one side of an argument, meditation, holding your breath, making a phone call, or giving your toddler a 'time out'. This timer is fun to make and fun to watch. You can use it to time lots of things, and creating this timer takes less time to make than many other activities. [Edit]Making a Basic Timer - Find two, clear plastic bottles that are the same size and shape. The shorter the bottles are, the more stable your timer will be. For a more realistic hourglass, try to use bulb-shaped bottles, such as Method or Orangina.
- Make sure that you take the labels off. Use soap and warm water to clean off any residue. Wipe the bottles clean with rubbing alcohol afterwards.
- Take the caps off, glue them together, and let the glue dry.[1] Draw a ring of glue around the top the first cap. Be careful not to get any glue in the middle, or you won't be able to make the hole. Place the second cap on top of the glue. Make sure that the tops of both caps are touching. You should only see the underside/inside of each cap.
- Use a strong glue, such as super glue or epoxy glue. Regular school glue or hot glue will not be strong enough.
- Punch a hole through the middle of the glued-together caps.[2] You can use an electric drill to do this, or a hammer and nail. Experiment with different hole sizes. The larger the hole is, the faster the sand will flow through. The smaller the hole is, the slower the sand will flow through.[3]
- If you are a child, ask an adult to help you with this step.
- Some caps have a plastic disk inside them. This can make drilling the hole difficult. Use a flat screwdriver to pop this disk out before you drill the hole.
- Screw the cap onto the first bottle, just like you normally would. The only difference is that now, you will have a second cap on top of your bottle. Don't worry about this one just yet.
- Make sure that the sand you are using is very dry. If you use damp sand, the sand will clump up in your bottles. Even if you bought your sand from the store, it might be a good idea to spread it out on a baking sheet, and leave it out in the sun for 1 hour.
- Try using colored sand. You can find it in the floral section of an arts and crafts shop.
- Add some fine scrapbooking glitter to your sand to make it look more magical. Plain sand and gold glitter will look great together. White sand and iridescent glitter will also look pretty.
- Start filling the second bottle with sand. If you don't care how long your sand timer takes, fill the bottle two-thirds of the way with sand. If you want your timer to run for a specific amount of time, then time yourself filling the bottle using a stopwatch.[4] For example:
- If you want your sand timer to last 1 minute, fill the bottle for 1 minute.
- Screw the empty bottle onto the sand-filled bottle. Keep the sand-filled bottle on the table. Turn the empty bottle upside down. Align the cap with the neck of the sand-filled bottle. Screw the cap unto the bottle until it is tight.
- Test your sand timer. Turn your sand timer upside down. The sand should be flowing smoothly from one bottle to the next. If you have a specific amount of time for your timer in mind (such as 1 minute), pull out a stopwatch and stop timing it.
- Be careful when handling your sand timer. The glue holding the caps together will not be very stable. Hold your timer by the seam/neck.
- Make any necessary adjustments after the sand has finished flowing. Unscrew the bottles first, and keep the sand-filled one standing upright. If the sand is not flowing smoothly enough, make the hole larger. If the bottom bottle is taking too long to fill, empty out some sand. If the bottom bottle fills too quickly, you will need to add more sand. Once you have made the adjustments, screw the bottles back together.
- Wrap some tape around the neck seam. Once you are happy with your timer, you will need to secure the necks together. Get some sturdy tape, such as duct tape, and wrap it tightly around the necks of the bottle. Start at the bottom neck, work your way up past the seam, and finish at the top neck. You may want to do this a few times for extra durability.
- Use your timer. Turn your timer so that the empty bottle is on the bottom. When the sand flows all the way down, the time is up. Flip your timer over if you'd like to use it again.
[Edit]Enhancing Your Sand Timer - Trace two large squares on a sheet of cardboard. The squares need to be about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) larger than the base of your bottle. Use a ruler to make the squares even.
- Cut the squares out using a box cutter or craft knife. If you are a child making this project, ask an adult to help you with this step.
- Find four wooden dowels that are the same height as your sand timer. If you need to, trim the dowels down. If you can't find any dowels, glue three wooden skewers together; this counts as one dowel. You will need 12 skewers total.[5]
- Paint the cardboard and dowels and wait for the paint to dry. You can use acrylic paint or spray paint. They can all be one color, or even different colors. Make sure that you paint the edges of your cardboard squares as well.
- Glue the cardboard squares to the top and bottom of your sand timer, and let the glue dry.[6] Cover the bottom of your sand timer with glue, and press it into the middle of the first cardboard square. Cover the top of your sand timer with glue, and press the other cardboard square on top.
- You can use any type of thick glue for this: school glue, wood glue, hot glue, or epoxy.
- Glue in the dowels between the cardboard squares. Place a drop of glue on the bottom of the first dowel. Press the dowel into the corner of the bottom square. Place a drop of glue on top of the dowel, and slide it under the top square. Make sure that the dowel is as straight as possible. Repeat this step for the other three dowels.[7]
- Decorate your finished sand timer further. You can leave your sand timer plain, or you can decorate it further. Here are some ideas to get you started:
- Wrap some ribbon around the dowels.
- Cover the edges of the cardboard squares with glitter glue.
- Draw designs on the top and bottom cardboard square using glitter glue. Let the glue dry before you do the other side.
- Glue one some plastic rhinestones or jewels along the dowels.
- Add on some glow-in-the-dark star stickers on the top and bottom cardboard squares.
- If you want a longer timer, use bigger bottles and put more sand in. Or you can use something else to make the hole smaller. (e.g. knife)
- Try it with glass bottles, and a cork stopper in the necks to hold them together. Be sure to drill a hole through the cork first.[8]
- For a larger timer: cut the top/domed part off of two liter-sized soda bottles, and glue them down onto cardboard disks/squares. Fill with the bottom bottle with sand, and assemble as per this article.[9]
[Edit]Warnings - Be careful when punching a hole through the caps. If you are a child, ask an adult to do this for you. If you are an adult, you may want to put on a pair of heavy work gloves to protect your fingers.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Making a Basic Timer - 2 clear, plastic bottles of equal size
- Dry sand
- Glitter (optional)
- Strong glue
- Nail and hammer or drill
- Duct tape (or other strong tape)
- Glitter (optional)
- Stopwatch
[Edit]Enhancing Your Sand Timer - Cardboard
- Short wooden dowels
- Box cutter
- Acrylic paint
- Glue
- Glitter, stickers, rhinestones, etc (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Fingerpaint Posted: 18 Mar 2022 09:00 AM PDT While there are many types of painting, finger painting is probably the most accessible - and the most enjoyable, especially for children. Though it often serves as a learning tool for kids, finger painting is a great activity for people of all ages. You don't need a lot of materials, and the rules are simple - use your fingers! However, even this rule can be broken. The main point is to just have fun! [Edit]Setting Up - Cover the area you plan to paint on. Since finger painting can get messy, especially for children, you should cover your work area with something you can clean off or throw away. You can use anything like newspapers, plastic tablecloths, or even old magazines.
- If you are still worried, try painting outside where there is less potential to get paint on things.
- Tape down your paper. Using your fingers or hands to paint can be a bit more rigorous than using a paintbrush, so keeping your paper in place while painting may be difficult. Taping the corners of your paper down will help prevent both future messes and potentially smudging your picture if your paper moves. This is also a good idea if you plan to paint outside as the wind might blow your paper away.[1]
- Try to use a tape that's easy to remove like painter's tape.
- Set up your paints and water. You will need not only your various jars of finger paint but also a small bowl of water to clean your fingers. You can place these anywhere you want, however, it's best to have them relatively close to your paper for easy access. If working with children, it's best to remove the small bowl of water once they begin painting so they are less likely to knock it over.
[Edit]Starting Your Finger Painting - Prepare your hands. Make sure to wash your hands before you start painting as you don't want to get dirt or anything else on your picture. After this, dip the tips of your fingers into your bowl of water. You want them to be slightly wet, but not dripping. This will help thin the paint out a bit, as well as make it easier to apply to your paper.
- Pick your colors. Most finger paint sets contain the usual rainbow colors along with black, brown, and white. However, if you want a different color, you can always mix some of your paints together. For example, if you want a darker green, try mixing it with a little black or brown. After you've chosen your colors, dip the tips of your fingers into the jars and make sure they are relatively coated.[2]
- When mixing paint, make sure to do it in a separate bowl or tin as you don't want to ruin the original colors. You should also test out your new color on a separate paper before using it.
- Start painting. There are no rules with finger painting outside of using your fingers, so feel free to paint whatever you want - a landscape, an animal or person, even something abstract. Once you've chosen what to paint and what colors to use, simply place your fingers or hands onto your paper and use them like you would a paint brush.
- You can also use the sides of your fingers, your palm, or your knuckles to finger paint. Each part of your hand will produce a different type of shape, similar to differently sized paint brushes. So get creative and try them all!
- Let your painting dry. Due to both the water and paint on your paper, you want to make sure you let it dry out before doing anything else with it. You should place your painting somewhere it's likely to get air or sun without being blown away or knocked over. You should also try to place it on top of something like a newspaper in case the paint runs.
- The time it takes your painting to dry will vary depending on how much paint is used, however, expect to wait at least 5-10 minutes.
[Edit]Cleaning Up Yourself and Your Area - Wipe off your hands. All paint used for finger painting should come easily off skin with soap and water, however, a wet rag, baby wipes, or any other safe cleaning agent will work. Don't worry too much about getting all the paint off at first as you will likely get more on your hands cleaning everything else up.
- Take off your apron or dirty clothes. Once you've removed the dirty items, place them somewhere where they can't get anything else dirty. If you want, you can try to wipe them down with a damp cloth or baby wipes to get off excess paint before washing them. You should also wash this clothing separate from anything else.
- Clean up your area. Put the lids back on your paints and make sure they are closed tightly. You should also wipe them down before you put them away. If you used old newspapers or magazines, you can simply throw them in the trash. However, if you used a plastic table cloth or a tarp, you can either wipe them down with a wet rag or take them outside and hose them off.
- For a more immersive or tactile experience, add texture to paints like sand, sugar, or oil to finger paints.
- Make your own paints instead of buying them. It works just as well, and can save money.[3]
- To make the art shaded, use a piece of tissue paper and rub lightly over the paints on the canvas, which will create shapes and make light and dark colors.
[Edit]Warnings - Some paints contain toxic materials, so check the labels before you let children use them.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Jars of different colored finger or poster paints - washable or non-toxic for children
- Bowls or jars, one for water and others for paints
- Thick paper to paint on (scrapbooking, watercolor, cardstock, etc.)
- Cloth or baby wipes to wipe hands
- Newspaper, magazines, or a plastic tablecloth to cover table
- Any media you want to use to add texture (sand, oil, sugar, etc.)
- Old clothing or apron
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Make Fish and Chips Posted: 18 Mar 2022 01:00 AM PDT Fish and chips is a popular take-out food dish from the United Kingdom, composed of battered and breaded fish deep-fried in oil with a side of deep-fried potatoes. Surprisingly easy, especially if you have a deep-fryer, this classic dish is famous on both sides of the Atlantic for a good reason. [Edit]Ingredients - 2 large (8-ounce) cod or haddock fillets
- 3-4 large Russet potatoes
- Vegetable oil for frying
- 2 cups of flour, plus 1/2 cup separate for dredging
- 1 tbsp. baking powder
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon black or cayenne pepper (both for spicier fish)
- 1 can brown beer or 1 beaten egg + 12-ounces soda water
- 1 teaspoon ground pepper and/or salt (optional)
- 1/2 cup of either cold water, buttermilk, or cold beer
[Edit]Prepping the Chips (1st Fry) - Chop your potatoes into long fries, roughly the thickness of your index finger. You can cut the fries any width you want, but try to keep them all a uniform thickness. This helps them cook evenly. To get good chips, use a V-slicer with a wide blade,[1] or simply use your hands:
- Rinse and scrub the outside of the potatoes to remove dirt. Leave the skin.
- Cut the potato in half, lengthwise.
- Take your two halves and cut them in half again, this time through the sides. You should be left with four "planks" of potato.
- Cut these planks into strips.
- Cut the strips, if desired, into shorter individual fries.
- Optionally, soak the potatoes in cold water for 1-2 hours. This slightly tenderizes them, giving them more moisture inside so that you get a creamier texture inside the chips. If you do soak them, drain them of water and pat dry with paper towels before proceeding.
- These fries could even soak overnight if you feel like working in advance.
- Make sure, if you plan to soak the potatoes, the oil isn't burning on your stove![2]
- Get a deep pan and coat the bottom with three inches of vegetable oil, heating to 325F degrees. A large dutch oven or a deep-fryer will work best. You will need to know how hot the oil is to get the best results, as the fries and fish need to cook at different temperatures for both to come out fully cooked but still tender.
- If you don't have a thermometer, but want to go for it anyway, use medium heat for 325F and medium high for 372F (needed later). Give the oil 2-3 minutes to adjust when changing temperature.[3]
- Fry the chips so they are covered completely in hot oil for 2-3 minutes. When they come out, they will be pale and floppy. This is good! They shouldn't be completely cooked the first time, as this leads to soggy, not so delicious chips.[4]
- Let the chips cool to room temperature before frying the second time. Remove the chips from the hot oil and drain them on a plate full of paper towels. You'll re-fry the chips again after the fish has cooked, which will get them golden brown and delicious.
- The reason for a double-fry is surprisingly complex: water in the potato is bound up in the starch, with less water in the outer edges that you cut through and more in the centers. In the first fry, this water is driven out, but the water in the center only makes it to the edge of the potato, where it forms a coating with the oil and starch as it cools to room temperature. The second fry crisps up this [5]
[Edit]Battering and Frying the Fish - Make sure your fish is completely thawed out. You can use any type of fish you like; in the U.K. they usually use cod for their fish and chips. If your fish has been in the freezer, take it out and put it in your fridge overnight so it thaws out, but stays cool and fresh.
- Increase the temperature of the oil to 375F. Turn up to medium and let the oil get nice and hot while you prepare the batter for the fish fry. The oil should not be dirty from the potatoes, as it takes a while to overuse oil, but if it is discolored then you should replace the oil and re-heat it.[6]
- Whisk together your batter in a bowl and set aside for 15 minutes in the fridge. If you're in a rush, you don't need to actually let the batter sit, though this does help the flavors blend slightly. You'll not that the ingredients have two different liquid components -- a beer-batter and a more traditional egg + water batter. One cup of milk or buttermilk could also be substituted, depending on your tastes and kitchen supplies.
- The batter will be thin and liquidy -- this is fine.
- This recipe uses 2 cups of flour. Save the other 1/2 cup for the next step.[7]
- Toss the potatoes back into the hot oil for 2-3 minutes to finish cooking. The oil should be 375F, and the potatoes should be room temperature. This method will develop the delicious, golden-brown crunch of great chips. Most cooks will remove the potatoes from the oil before proceeding, keeping them hot in the oven after draining once more on paper towels.
- Adventurous cooks can go the traditional way and cook the fish on the potatoes. To do so, skip ahead and prepare the fish, then add the potatoes right before you add the fish in. Remove together and drain at the same time.[8]
- Lightly dredge the fish in flour to help the batter stick. Simply dust the fish in flour, as this will help the liquid batter stick to the fish instead of sliding right off. You can also use cornmeal or rice flour to help the batter adhere.
- The entire fish should be dusted with flour when done.
- Dunk a piece of fish in the batter with tongs, coating completely. Hold it by the tail to ensure most of the fish gets coated. You just want to work with one piece at a time. This is a thin batter that will try to slip off the slick fish quickly, so it's best to focus on one at at time.
- Still holding by the tail, dip the fish in the hot oil, swirling it around until the outside sets. As it hits the hot oil, the batter should rapidly cook and harden onto the outside of the fish. If you just drop it in, however, any batter not touching the hot oil will "melt" right off in the oil and won't stick to the fish.
- Cook each fish until golden brown, roughly 2-3 minutes. After you've gotten the first piece in, you can move on to the other pieces until that one is done. Remember to work quickly, and get the pieces out before they burn. If the outside looks tasty and golden-brown, you're good to go.[9]
- Drain everything on newspaper (or paper towels) and liberally add salt. The traditional English dish drains paper towels, then rolls everything into a cone on the greasy paper and serves the fish with a bit of salt and paper. You can also drain on oven racks or with paper towels, of course. Enjoy with malt vinegar or tartar sauce.[10]
- Add the salt while everything is still hot to help it spread out better.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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