| How to Make Potholders Posted: 25 Mar 2022 09:00 AM PDT Potholders protect your hands while you handle hot pans and dishes during cooking or baking. There are lots of designs for potholders, but the most popular ones are the quilted kind and the woven kind. Both are easy to make, and once you nail down the process, you can make potholders for all sorts of gifts and occasions. [Edit]Sewing a Quilted Potholder - Cut a rounded square out of paper for the template. Use a pencil and a ruler to draw a square on a sheet of paper. Next, use a small jar as a stencil to round the corners. Cut the rounded square out when you're done.
- You don't have to make the corners rounded if you don't want to, but it'll be much easier to attach the bias tape to the corners if they're rounded.
- Use the template to cut your fabric, batting, and fleece. Cut 2 pieces of cotton fabric, 2 pieces of cotton batting, and 1 piece of heat-resistant fleece. Set the template aside when you're done.[1]
- You can use the same color/pattern for both cotton squares, or you can use different ones. For example, 1 piece could be solid-colored while the other could be patterned.
- Stack the pieces, with the cotton on the outside and the rest in the middle. Set 1 of your cotton squares on the table, right-side-down. Place the batting on top, followed by the fleece. Set the second piece of batting on top of that, followed by the second cotton square, right-side-up.[2]
- Stack the pieces in this order: fabric, batting, fleece, batting, fabric.
- The right side of the fabric is the same as the front. The wrong side is the back.
- Secure the edges with pins, then hand sew a basting stitch around them. Pin the edges of the stacked fabric squares first. Next, thread your needle and knot the end. Sew a loose straight stitch by pushing the needle through the front of the fabric, out the back, and through the front again. Work your way around the edges of the fabric, keeping the stitches about apart. Remove the pins when you're done.[3]
- The seam allowance doesn't matter, but something around would be good.
- Use a contrasting thread color. This will make it easier to see the basting stitch so that you can pull it out later.
- Draw diagonal lines, apart, to make a quilted pattern. Use a ruler and chalk to draw a diagonal line from the top-right to the bottom-left corner. Continue to draw parallel lines to either side of it until you reach the opposite corners.[4]
- Repeat this process for the top-left and bottom-right corner. Consider using a different chalk color to make the lines easier to tell apart.
- Don't worry if the last set of lines are a little further than from the corners. The bias tape will cover this up.
- Sew the diagonal lines using a straight stitch on a sewing machine. Start with the first line that you sketched, from the top-right corner to the bottom-left corner. Cut the thread, then do all the lines to the left of it, then all the lines to the right. After you finish sewing each line, cut the thread, and begin sewing the next line. Repeat this process for the top-left, bottom-right set of lines.[5]
- You do not need to backstitch here, but you can if you want to.
- The straight stitch is the most basic stitch on a sewing machine. How you get this stitch on your sewing machine depends on the brand. Refer to the manual that came with it.
- Use a contrasting thread color if you want the lines to stand out. For a more subtle design, match the thread color to the fabric.
- Remove the basting stitch. Use your fingers to tug and pull the thread out. You shouldn't have to use a seam ripper for this since basting stitches are so loose. Don't worry, the potholder won't come apart. The quilting stitches are holding it together.
- If you knotted the basting stitch, cut the knot first.
- Unfold a bias tape and pin it right-side-down around the potholder. Open up a double-fold bias tape, then fold 1 of the narrow ends down towards the wrong side by . Pin the tape by the long, raw edge all the way around your potholder. The right side of the bias tape should face the potholder.[6]
- The bias tape should be right on top of the potholder, not hanging off the edge. You will sew it down first, then fold it over.
- Pin the folded, narrow edge down first. Overlap the other end of the bias tape by , then cut the rest off.
- Choose bias tape in a contrasting color for a more colorful look. Something between would work great here.
- Tuck a loop of folded bias tape under 1 of the corners, if desired. Cut of bias tape. Sew along the open, long edge on your sewing machine using a straight stitch and a matching thread color. Fold the bias tape in half so that the narrow ends touch. Tuck it under 1 of the bias-taped corners on your potholder and secure it with a pin.[7]
- The ends of the loop should touch the raw edges of your potholder. The rest of the loop should be on top of the potholder.
- Remove some of the pins holding the bias tape down, then slip the loop under it so that it's between the potholder and the bias tape.
- This is simply a hanging loop. You don't have to include it, if you don't want to.
- Sew the bias tape to the potholder using the crease as a guide. Your bias tape will have 3 creases; use the crease that's closest to the edge of the potholder as a guide. Using a straight stitch on your sewing machine, begin sewing at the narrow end that you folded over. Work your way around the potholder, then finish sewing at the other end of the bias tape.[8]
- Match the thread color to the actual fabric of the potholder. This way, if any of the stitching shows through at the end, it won't be as visible.
- Reverse the sewing machine for a few stitches when you start and finish sewing. This is known as "backstitching" and will keep your stitches from coming apart.
- Fold the bias tape over, tuck the raw edges in, and pin it down. Flip the potholder over so that the back is facing you. Fold the raw edge of the bias tape back down, using the crease as a guide. Next, fold the bias tape over the raw edge of the potholder. Pin it in place.[9]
- If you added a hanging loop, fold the loop up so that it's sticking out over the edge of the potholder. Pin it down too.
- Pull the bias tape tightly enough so that it covers the stitching from when you sewed the bias tape in place.
- Sew the bias tape close to the edge using a straight stitch. There is no specific seam allowance, but try to sew as close to the inside edge of the tape as possible—about will do. Remember to backstitch then you start and finish sewing, and to remove the pins as you sew.[10]
- Use your sewing machine for this step. Match the thread color and bobbin color to the bias tape.
- If you added a hanging loop, then sew the top edge of the bias tape to the loop to tack it in place.
[Edit]Weaving a Potholder on a Loom - Purchase a weaving loom kit from a craft store or fabric store. The kit should contain a square plastic weaving loom with "prongs" on all 4 sides, a pack of fabric bands, and a hook.[11]
- Check the kids crafting section first. If you can't find it there, try the rug making aisle next.
- Do not use a regular weaving room for rugs. It's not the same thing. The loom needs to have prongs on all 4 sides.
- The looms in these kits come in a standard size. If you have an option between large, medium, and small sizes, however, stick with the smaller size.
- Wrap the loops around the prongs on the loom going horizontally. Take a band and slip it over the first prong on the bottom-left side of the loom. Stretch it across the loom towards the matching prong on the bottom-right. Slip it over the prong and move on to the next band. Work your way towards the top of the loom. Be careful not to let the bands get twisted.[12]
- Put the bands left and right prongs, not the top and bottom prongs. This will create the base for your potholder.
- The bands come in all sorts of colors, so get creative with the pattern. Try all 1 color, a rainbow pattern, or an alternating pattern. You can also just do a random pattern.
- Rotate the loom so that the bands are going vertically. The prongs on the left and right sides of the loom should now be free of bands. It will be much easier to weave new bands across the loom going horizontally rather than vertically.[13]
- Weave your crochet hook over-and-under across the vertical bands. Place your crochet hook on 1 side of the loom, towards the bottom. Move the hook across the first band, then slide it under the next band. Continue to weave the hook through the bands, over-and-under, until you reach the opposite side.[14]
- Each band creates a double strand. Treat these strands as a single strand. For example, if you have a pink band, weave across the entire pink band.
- If you're left-handed, start on the left side of the loom and finish on the right. If you're right handed, start on the right side and finish on the left.
- Keep the hook woven across the bands. One end of the hook should be on the left side of the loom, and the other end of the hook should be on the right side.
- Use the hook to pull a new band back through. Slip a band over the curved part of your hook. Next, pull the hook back through the vertical bands, dragging the band you just latched onto it through them. Make sure that the opposite end of the band catches onto the prong. If it doesn't, slip it onto the prong. Once you reach the other end of the loom, take the hook off and slid the band onto the prong.[15]
- If you started weaving on the left, pull the hook back towards the left.
- If you started weaving on the right, pull the hook towards the right.
- Repeat the process for the next row, but start weaving from underneath. Go back to the same side you started weaving on. Slide the hook under the first band and over the next one. Continue to weave the hook under-and-over across the bands until you reach the opposite side. Use the hook to pull another horizontal band through the vertical ones.
- Remember to hook both ends of the band over the prongs.
- Continue to weave rows of bands until you reach the top of the loom. Alternate the position of the hook with each row that you start. For example, when you get to the third row, start with the hook on top of the first band. When you get to the fourth row, start with the hook under the first band.[16]
- The potholder may start to curve around the edges, which is normal. Just keep weaving.
- Crochet the edges by pulling the first loop through the next loop. Slide your hook through the first 2 bands on 1 corner; make sure that the hook is pointing away from the corner. Pull both loops off the prongs, then use the hook to pull the second band (furthest from the corner) through the first band (closest to the corner).
- When you're done, the second loop should still be on the hook.
- If you're left-handed, start on the top-left corner and work towards the right.
- If you're right-handed, start on the top-right corner and work towards the left.
- Continue to crochet around the loom until you're back where you started. Use the hook to pull the next band (third from the corner) off the prong. Pull the loop through the loop that's already on the hook. Continue in this fashion until you're back where you started on the bottom-right corner.[17]
- Work your way around the loom, pulling the previous band through the next one.
- The potholder will come off the loom bit by bit as you crochet the loops together, so don't worry about pulling it off.
- Pull the second-to-last loop through the last one, then pull it tightly. Crochet the final loops together by pulling the last loop through the one that's already on the hook. Use the hook to pull the last loop tightly until the bands tighten. This should be enough to hold the potholder together.[18]
- Gently stretch the edges of the potholder to help it maintain a square-like shape.
- For a more secure hold, tie the 2 loops together in a double-knot instead of crocheting them.
- Use printed cotton to make season potholders. For example, use red cotton fabric with green Christmas trees to make Christmas potholders.
- Fat quarters from the quilting section of a fabric store typically contain enough material to make 1 potholder.
- Potholders make great housewarming gifts, especially if the bigger gift is a set of pots, pans, or baking dishes.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Sewing a Quilted Potholder - Cotton fabric
- Cotton batting
- Heat-resistant fleece
- Needle
- Thread
- Sewing machine
- Sewing pins
- Fabric scissors
- Tailor's chalk
- Ruler
- double-fold bias tape
[Edit]Weaving a Potholder on a Loom [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Rekindle a Friendship Posted: 25 Mar 2022 01:00 AM PDT It is an unfortunate fact of life that friends often drift away. People move, make new friends, get into fights, or become interested in other things, and friendships often fade as a result. However, there is often very little in the way of resuming a happy friendship if you take the time to reach out. [Edit]Reconnecting with Old Friends - Think about why you drifted apart. There are a lot of reasons why people lose friendships, from distance and time to conflicting schedules or changing interests. You need to spend some time examining what caused you to drift apart so that you can find ways to remedy the issue. If, for example, one of you moved across the country, you may not be able to become best friends again easily. But you can still have a meaningful friendship using email, Skype, and phone calls.
- Make contact with a brief note or call. Don't feel like you need to catch up with each other instantly. Take the time to send a quick message to your friend with your contact info and tell them you would love to talk sometime.
- Don't feel like you need to fill them in on your life now — save this conversation for when you meet later.
- Talk on the phone or exchange emails to restart conversation. If you live far away and cannot meet anytime soon, spend some time with each other online or on the phone. The best way to build or rebuild a friendship is to talk.
- Open up about your life first. You don't have to get into all of your secrets, but giving a quick update on your life makes your friend more likely to share things about him or herself. Friendships rely on trust, and you need to let them know that they can still trust you with information and details about their life. The best way to do this is to show that you still trust them with your own stories.
- Move beyond surface conversation to talk about things that matter to you, like your life and work. Friends usually talk about much more than the weather.
- Set up a time to meet in person. Think of an activity you both enjoy doing together, and arrange to meet up. A light, casual, one-on-one meeting is the best chance to get to know each other again and rekindle the friendship without pressure to be "besties" immediately.
- Try to limit this first meeting to 1-2 hours — the goal is simply to reconnect with each other.
- Start slowly. Don't try to rush right back into "best-friends" territory. Have realistic expectations for this first conversation, especially if the last time you talked was 8 months ago or if you ended on bad terms. Have a friendly, open tone as you ask what they've been doing and how they've been. If things go well, you can begin to get into deeper, more involved conversations.
- Continue making time for your old friends. Relationships—romantic or otherwise—take time and energy to maintain. If you reach out and reconnect, then quickly disappear off the face of the earth again, chances are you won't be able to rekindle your friendship. Schedule times to meet or talk, ask how they are doing, and find ways to include them in your life to truly reconnect.
- Meet for drinks once a week.
- Invite them to parties or events with "new" friends.
- Send letters or emails with details from your life from time to time.
[Edit]Moving on After a Fight - Remember what caused your falling out. Why did you stop being friends? Did you get into a fight about money, business, or relationships, or did constant bickering drive you apart? Think not only about the fight, but about your place in it. What have you learned since then, and how have you changed? If you don't take the time to at least think about the problems in your friendship, you will not be able to get over them.
- Start with small, non-confrontational meetings. Ask to meet your friend in a public place so that there is no pressure to get personal right off the bat. A cup of coffee, a walk in the park, or drinks after work are all nice, low-key ways to meet someone and test the waters for rekindling a friendship.
- Your first meeting should be a chance to talk and catch up, so give yourself time and space to chat.
- At this stage you are trying to feel out their emotions and see if you can still be friends. Don't come into the meeting with expectations or an agenda.
- Start the conversation by catching up casually. Don't feel like you need to dive into the bad blood between you right off the bat. If they've agreed to meet you, then they want to move on just like you do. Take some time to remember why you were friends in the first place by catching up about work, life, spouses, or hobbies.
- Apologize for your faults in the fight. This is often the best way to approach the subject, but it doesn't have to be a bent-knee confession. You can begin with something as simple as "I'm sorry for how I acted last time we hung out." This starts the process of moving past your conflicts and rebuilding your friendship.
- Avoid pointing fingers at the other person. Even if you think your fight was their fault, blaming your friend will only make reconciliation more difficult. Many things may have changed since you last saw each other, and it is unfair to meet with someone just to accuse them. Have a conversation, not an inquisition.
- Work through your conflicts, even if they are difficult. If there are still hard feelings, don't be afraid to address them. You were friends for a reason, and given the right amount of maturity, there should be no reason why you can't be friends again. Use "I" statements, like: "I felt (this) when (this happened)" or "Looking back, I feel like (this) because of (this)." When you use this method, you're able to express your feelings without accusation, and you let your friend know your true feelings.
- Make it known that you would like to resume the friendship. Make a point towards the end of the meeting to set up another time to hang out. While you don't have to have a set date in mind, saying, "it's been great to catch up, I'd love to meet again soon," tells someone that you are serious about rekindling your friendship.
- Take things slow at first. You do not have to become best friends again the minute you see one another. Work on your issues together, and keep meeting once every few weeks until you feel that your concerns have been addressed. If you feel that you've been wronged, and that your friend is ignoring the conflict or refusing to change, then you may be headed toward another falling-out.
- That said: if you feel like you've both moved on and feel comfortable, then don't avoid each other. Congratulate yourself on successfully mending your relationship, and enjoy your rediscovered bond.
[Edit]Preventing Relationships from Falling Apart - Talk to each other once or twice a month. Talking is the best way to keep a friendship alive and stay in someone's mind. Make time in your day to catch up with old friends so that you have things to talk about when you meet up again.
- Don't feel like you need to share everything or talk once a week. Simply taking an hour every now and then to chat is often all you need to do to keep a friendship alive.
- Remember big occasions, like birthdays or anniversaries. Sending a card or message to someone on their birthday shows them that you still value their friendship. Even a quick note to celebrate an old anniversary, like the day you graduated together or started your first road-trip, can bring up shared memories that keep your friendship alive.
- Build trust with each other. Best friends remain friends because they have a bond of trust that can sustain time and distance. This means sharing secrets, fears, and worries, and knowing that you will get good, honest advice in return. It also means keeping the secrets and stories of your friend to yourself. No matter how far away you are, you should feel like your friend has your back, and you should have theirs.
- Help your friend out when they are in need. Even a kind, considerate note can be enough to help someone in a tough spot. Good friends are there when the going gets tough, even if they haven't talked in several months. Offer to help with problems, support them in hard times, and show that you are a friend in the bad times as well as the good.
- Don't act too eager to rekindle your friendship. It has to be a gradual process.
[Edit]Warnings - Your friend may not want to rekindle your relationship. In this case, it is best to politely move on instead of trying to convince them otherwise.
[Edit]Related wikiHows
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| How to Cut a Faux Hawk Posted: 24 Mar 2022 05:00 PM PDT The faux hawk is an innovation on the Mohawk hairstyle. While a Mohawk changes abruptly from a shaved head to a strip of hair in the center of the head, a faux hawk makes a smoother transition between long and short sections of the cut, resulting in a more versatile cut that can be styled down or up depending on the occasion. This article will show you how to cut a faux hawk. [Edit]Preparing Your Hair - Decide on the width of your faux hawk. How wide the center section (hawk) will be depends on your face shape and personal taste. Use the eyes as a gauge. Generally the center section of a faux hawk cut (i.e. the hawk/raised bit) spreads from outer eye to outer eye, or from center eye to center eye.[1]
- Experiment with different widths to see what looks best on your face.
- If you have long hair, tie it back in a ponytail so that your sides look clipped, then hold the center part over your head or twist and clip it on top of your head. This should give you an idea of what you might look like.
- Divide the hair into 3 sections. To separate the sections, use a comb and, moving from your front hairline (forehead) to the bottom-back of your head (the nape of your neck), carve out a C-shape. The C starts at your front hairline and ends at the nape of your neck.
- The exact size and shape of the side sections will depend on the width of your center section, which will run vertically from your front hairline to the nape of your neck.
- Work on keeping the center section the same width all the way down as you draw your C curve on each side of the head. The curve should come quite naturally as your comb inclines up towards your crown and then down towards the nape of your neck.
- Do this on both sides of your head to make 2 equal side sections and the 1 section on top, which will be the peak of your hawk.
- Make sure your hair parts are clean. You should now have 2 C-shaped parts: 1 on either side of your head. Make sure that the lines are clean and not jagged.
- Fasten the center section of hair with clips. To ensure that you don't accidentally cut the center section of hair as you trim your sides, clip it down. If you don't have hair clips, you can use elastics if your hair is long enough, or you can use hair pins.
- Know which method you want to use for cutting the side sections. You can use scissors or clippers to cut the sides of your hair, and then you'll want to move to scissors for the top. Clippers will generally give you a closer, less textured-looking cut than scissors.[2]
- If you're cutting a faux hawk yourself, you may be best off using the clippers method as it will be difficult to see the back of your head well enough to cut your hair with scissors— not to mention you'll risk cutting your fingers.
- If you do use clippers and you don't want the sides of your to just be one length, you can use a mixture of clippers and scissors to do a blended fade. This involves using 3 levels of clipper guards and then blending the lines with scissors.
- If you're using scissors, wet your hair before you get started. Keep your hair dry if you're using clippers.
[Edit]Cutting the Sides and Back with Scissors - Know the risks. Unless you're accustomed to cutting your own hair, and you have good mirrors that allow you to see the back of your head as you work on it, you may want to use clippers for this.
- Even if you don't accidentally cut your fingers, you might end up with an uneven cut if you can't properly see what you're doing.
- If you would prefer to use scissors to cut the side sections of your hair, consider asking a friend to help you out.
- Know which direction to cut in. As you cut the side sections, you'll move from the front of your hairline to the back (face to neck) in vertical strips. To get a sense of what this means, hold a comb vertically against your head — it should be parallel to your face, not perpendicular to it.
- You'll move from one vertical strip to another until you've completed the entire side section, and then you'll move to the other side.
- Know the correct hand position. For each vertical section that you cut, you'll hold the hair between the pointer and middle fingers of your non-dominant hand, at a 90-degree angle from your head. Pretend your two fingers are a pair of scissors, and hold the hair between them.
- Some stylists recommend positioning your non-dominant hand so that your thumb is pointing outward in the direction that you are moving (in this case, towards the back of your head).
- For a right-handed stylist, this means your left hand's fingers should be pointing upward on the left side of your head as you cut with your right.
- Cut the sides depending on hair density. There are two ways to cut those vertical sections of hair as you move along the C curve towards the back of your head:
- For thin or normal hair, you can get away with cutting all of the hair at the same distance from the head. To get a sense of what this means, hold the flat side of a comb against the head and then move it outward between 1 and 2 inches, keeping the comb completely vertical — not tilting in or out. This is how you will move down a vertical section of normal hair when cutting it.
- If hair is quite thick, you may want to cut it shorter to longer moving from top to bottom. To get a sense of the direction in which you'd cut, hold the flat side of a comb next the head, pull it out from the head between 1 and 2 inches, and tilt the top of the comb slightly inward. This is how you will move down the vertical section of thick hair when cutting it.
- Complete both sides. Do the same for both sides, cutting in vertical sections moving front to back.
- Clean up sideburns/around ears. Before moving to the back of your head, you'll want to clean up the hair around your ears. If you don't have sideburns, this will just involve trimming any hair that hangs over your ears so that you've got a clean line.
- If you have sideburns, use a comb to brush the hair in one direction and then trim it so there's a clean line; then, brush the hair in the other direction and trim it again.
- If your sideburns are quite thick, you can brush them up with a comb and slightly trim the tops of them. Just make sure that there are no bald patches in your sideburns before doing this, otherwise you might make them more obvious.
- Release the back center section from its clip. Once the sides are done, you can trim up the lower back section that starts at the crown of your head and goes down to the nape of your neck.
- You may need to give it a quick comb-through if it's tangled.
- Cut the lower back section. Hold strips of hair between the pointer and middle fingers of your non-dominant hand, pull them away from your head at 90 degrees, and then tilt them in slightly toward the center line of your head, then cut into them.
- Once again, you'll move down the strip from top to bottom, going either shorter to longer if you have thick hair, or all one length if you have fine to normal hair.
- This time you needn't worry as much about the strips of hair being perfectly vertical, as you'll be texturing your hair.
- You're ready to cut the top section. Once your back and sides are done, you're ready to cut the top center section of your hair, aka the hawk!
[Edit]Cutting the Back and Sides with Clippers - Decide which guards you want to use. For a faux hawk you'll likely want the sides of your hair to gradually go from shorter to longer until they reach the top center of your head. To achieve this, you'll want to do a graded cut using 3 guard sizes.[3]
- Unless you already know what sizes you want, consider starting with a #2 (1/4-inch) guard for the bottom, a #3 (3/8-inch) guard for the middle, and a #4 (1/2-inch) guard for the top of the side sections of your hair.
- Use the #4 guard to cut from the bottom hairline up. As you approach the top center section of your hair (the part of your hair that will become the faux hawk), rock your hand outward and lift the clippers away from your scalp.
- Do this as slowly and smoothly as possible to avoid making any mistakes.
- Switch to the #3 guard and repeat, but stop earlier. Use the #3 guard to cut from the bottom of your hair up, but this time stop and rock the clippers away from your scalp at roughly 1/4 of the distance from your bottom hairline to the outer edge of your hawk.
- Switch to the #2 guard and repeat, but stop even earlier. Again working from the bottom up, run the razor along your scalp and then rock it away as your reach the lower tier of where you want to be — this just depends on your own tastes.
- Clean up any lines with a #1 guard. With a #1 guard on your razor, clean up around the edges of your hairline.
- Blend. Right now you should see clearly defined sections where you've clipped your hair using different guards. To blend the sections, gently comb the hair upward at the border where one section moves into another, then gently glide either scissors or clippers along the comb to remove the hair that sticks out.
- Do this around your entire head until everything looks blended.
[Edit]Cutting the Center Top Section - Release the center top section from its clips. Comb it vertically down the center of your head, towards your face. This is the direction in which you'll cut it.
- Again you'll be cutting in vertical strips, but this time the up-down direction will be from your crown to your forehead.
- Make sure that you're maintaining enough length in this section as you cut.[4]
- Work from the outside in. Beginning with one side of your head, comb down the outermost strip of hair that runs from your crown to your forehead. Line it up with the the hair on the side of your head and cut along it, from the back to the front of your head.
- Over direct each strip of hair as you cut. When working on layers of the center strip of your hair, don't try to cut each layer the same length. You want them to go from shorter on the outside to longest at the center-top of your head, which will be the peak of your hawk.
- To ensure you're cutting correctly, comb each layer of hair over so that it lies flat on your head, and then cut it even with the first layer you cut.
- Make sure that you're cutting each layer as it lies flat on your head. This is different from your previous cuts, in which you held the hair out from the head.
- The hair must lie flat on your head, otherwise you'll risk cutting all layers the same length, which you don't want for the center part of your head.
- Move to the next side. Once you've cut from the outside to the center part, move to the other side of your head and do the same there — moving from the outermost strip of hair in towards the part.
- Texturize the top. Once you've finished cutting both sides of your center piece, work through the top part of your hair. You can now cut into your hair randomly to suit your own tastes.
- Grab small sections of your hair between your pointer and middle fingers, and cut into them with scissors. Cut down at an angle instead of straight across; this will give you more of a textured, fun look.[5]
[Edit]Finishing it Off - Thin it out (optional). If your hair is looking chunky and thick, consider taking some sections between your fingers and cutting very lightly into them while holding the scissors vertically pointing down towards your scalp.
- When doing this, don't cut the entire chunk of hair — just a few snips into the section of hair that you hold between your fingers will be fine.
- If the back is still quite full, you can do what is called "channel cutting", which involves running the scissors through the hair at a diagonal angle as you cut. This can be particularly helpful at the back of your hair, particularly if you have trouble reaching back there, as you only need one hand for channel cutting (the one holding the scissors).
- Texturize the sides and back of your hair (optional). Once you're happy with the top, move around the sides and back and make little adjustments as you see fit.
- One way to easily add some texture is to gently twist a chunk of hair and then, holding the scissors at a diagonal angle, gently running them against the hair twist to add some texture.
- Don't close the scissors completely over the twist, otherwise you'll just cut the chunk of hair off instead of giving it a pointy, razored look.
- Rub a texturizing cream, mousse or wax between your hands and then apply it to your hair. To get the faux hawk look, move your hands through the center top part of your hair swiftly and in an upward motion.
- If the sides of your hair are still a bit long, you can use the styling product to tame them down a bit by pushing them forwards or backwards.
- A common tip from stylists when applying product is to start at the back of your hair. That way if you use too much product, your hair won't look overly greasy.
- When cutting hair, scissors should always be very sharp.
- If you already have short hair, you may be able to style a faux hawk without cutting your hair just by slicking down the sides and using a texturizing cream or mousse to spike up the center part of your hair.
- Note that the shortest part of a faux hawk is usually between 1/4 of an inch 3/4 of an inch long.
- This can be a difficult cut to do if you're not a professional hair stylist — even a professional might have difficulty doing this cut on themselves. Consider going to a barber and asking for the cut there.
- This style works well with unwashed hair, as freshly washed hair might be too soft and slick to stick up, and you want a full textured look.[6]
[Edit]Warnings - Do not cut the hair as short as you would like it to look when the cut is finished, particularly if you're doing a wet cut, as the hair will contract when it's dry.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Clippers
- Scissors
- Mousse, gel and/or pomade
- Hair dryer (optional)
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