| How to Make a Rubber Band Ball Posted: 10 Mar 2022 12:00 AM PST There are many great reasons to have a rubber band ball. You can bounce it, use it to keep all your rubber bands in once place, or squeeze it to strengthen your hand muscles. If you enjoy making your first one, this might even become a hobby. [Edit]Making a Rubber Band Ball - Create a core. You can start with any small object, such as a marble or golf ball. A "true" rubber band ball, however, includes no other materials. Here's how to get it started:[1]
- Select a short, thick rubber band, such as a band used to secure vegetables.
- Fold this rubber band in half, then in half again, then a third time if possible. Do not twist it; you should end up with a flat "stack" of rubber.
- While pinching the thick band flat, wrap a thinner rubber band around it.
- Twist the slack of the thinner band and wrap it over the thick one in the other direction.
- Continue to twist and wrap until there is no more slack in the thin band.
- Wrap rubber bands around the core. Start with two rubber bands placed in a criss-cross shape over the core. Make sure they're tightly secured. You may have to twist and wrap them around the core a few times.
- Start with the smallest bands first, since they won't be useful once your ball passes a certain size.
- Add more rubber bands until the ball is smooth. Keep wrapping rubber bands so that you form a ball. Space the rubber bands evenly so that no one side of the ball is larger than any other. A ball without an object in the core will start out lumpy, but it should become smooth by the time it reaches the size of a golf ball.[2]
- Test the ball. Toss it in the air, or bounce it against the wall. Your new rubber band ball should have plenty of spring. Enjoy it as is, or keep adding more rubber bands and watch it grow.
- Get it to the size of a tennis ball for the best bounce.
[Edit]Rubber Band Ball Challenges - Find all your rubber bands for free. Since rubber band balls are all about the challenge anyway, why not make it a little harder? Try expanding your ball without paying for any rubber bands. Here are a few places to look for them:
- Ask friends and neighbors for spares.
- Ask postal workers, newspaper delivery people, and other door-to-door delivery workers.
- Look in shoe stores, which may use rubber bands to hold the shoe boxes closed.
- Make a ball without twisting any rubber bands. If you don't twist the rubber bands, they lie flat against each other, with no room for air. This makes the densest, bounciest ball. The trick to this is finding each new rubber band exactly the right size, so there's no slack when you loop it around the ball once.[3]
- Make it massive. Rubber band balls are extremely dense, so after a certain point they'll be too heavy to bounce without breaking something. After that, the challenge is to make it as large as possible. You can even beat the world record, if you can find 700,000 rubber bands.[4]
- Once the ball is about the size of a basketball, wear safety goggles. Plenty of rubber bands will snap after this point, and you don't want them hitting your eyes.[5]
- Rubber bands decay over time. To stop it shrinking or breaking apart, your project will need regular reinforcement.[6]
- Cut your old ball in half. Once you have a basketball-sized rubber band ball, it will probably sit there in the corner of your room, getting greyer and more frayed. Want to get one final moment of fun? Saw it in half and watch the insides emerge on their own, like a bizarre colony of worms.[7] If that description didn't turn you off the hobby forever, get out there and start creating!
]
- If you're having trouble making a rubber band core, start with several short rubber bands instead. Wad them into a ball and pinch them together as you wrap thinner rubber bands around them. Some people find this easier, but the core will end up lumpier and may spring apart before it has a solid layer wrapped around it.
- When the ball gets too large to fit your rubber bands around, cut two bands in half, tie the ends together, and tie that around the ball.
- Colorful rubber bands will make the rubber band ball more exciting and different, but the colors will fade with time.
- For a neat gift idea, why not use a paper with a secret message as the core? Or to pull a mean prank, make the ball obnoxiously large and tell your friend their crush put a note in the center.
- Make different layers of colors in the ball.
- You can use different colors of rubber bands, they can be however you want them.
[Edit]Warnings - Rubber will melt (vulcanize) naturally over time. Heat and UV light can speed this up, so keep the ball away from warm areas and sunlight.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Rubber bands
- A piece of foil or a small ball (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Price Antiques and Collectibles Posted: 09 Mar 2022 04:00 PM PST Lots of people have interesting antiques and collectibles in their homes. Antiques are objects that are 100 years old or older, while collectibles are interesting objects that are less than 100 years old.[1] Maybe you've wondered how much that heavy old table your grandparents used to eat dinner at is worth. Or maybe you've sifted through your childhood toys and wondered what you could get for them. Trying to determine a good selling price can be tedious and drawn out or it can be quick, simple and even fun. The value of any antique or collectible is defined as what someone is willing to pay for the item on a given day. [Edit]Doing Your Homework - Learn more about your item. It's important to have a baseline of knowledge about the kind of item you want to sell. If you're selling your grandparents' old dining room table, it might be useful to find out what kind of table it is (style, material, and, if possible, who made it). You can find this kind of information in general reference books on antiques. [2] Most libraries have a section on guides for antiques and collectibles. [3]
- Once you identify your item and get a ballpark value, it will be easier for you to figure out a good price for that item.
- Browse antique stores in your area. Look for items similar to the one you want to sell. Compare the condition of the items for sale to the condition of the one you have. Check for any differences in style, material, or maker. Then check how much the dealer is trying to sell the item for.
- You might even want to talk to the dealer—ask about why they priced the item the way they did.
- Beware: While antiques dealers can be helpful in determining a ballpark price for your item, you should ever ask them (or allow them) to appraise your item unless you know for sure that you will not sell your item to them. It is considered a conflict of interest for a dealer to appraise an item they intend to buy. If a dealer offers to buy an item after valuing it for you, say no. [4]
- Check online auction sites. Ebay, Amazon, and Craigslist are all useful sites for finding out how much people are willing to pay for items like yours. On Ebay, you can search for similar items which have recently been sold. This will help you to see what people are actually willing to pay for items like yours.
- Keep in mind that these sites are highly competitive, so their prices tend to be on the low side. If you want to get the most money possible for your item, online auction sites aren't the best gauge.
- Check online price guides. Price guides list different types of antiques or collectibles along with a range of prices you can expect to get for them. Kovel's is considered to be the best online guide for antiques and collectibles. You can get a free subscription or pay a yearly fee for its premium services. [5]
- Decide what kind of value you want to find out in your appraisal. Appraisers can give you several different kinds of price values, depending on how (or if) you want to sell your item.
 - Auction Value – The auction value is the amount that your item would be expected to sell for at an auction. Very rare or valuable items are often sold at auction because people are willing to spend more. However, items that are less rare or valuable tend to go for less at auction than they would at retail price, because there is not much demand for them.
- Retail Value – Retail value is the amount of money your item would sell for in an antique store. If your item is not rare and you don't expect its value to be high, the retail value is likely to be higher than the auction value. Remember, though, that an antique dealer will not buy your item from you at full retail value; if they did, they wouldn't be able to make a profit.
- Insurance Value – If you decide that you don't want to sell your item, an appraiser can also assess its insurance value. This is the amount of money that you would need to replace your item in a "reasonable amount of time" if it is destroyed or stolen. This is useful is your item is especially valuable. [6]
- Don't alter your item before you have it valued. Many people think that their item will be worth more if they clean it up before having it appraised. However, "restoring" or otherwise altering an item without talking to an expert first often has the effect of lowering the value of the item—sometimes by a lot. Keep your item just the way it is—flaws and all. [7]
[Edit]Using an Appraiser - Hire a professional appraiser. It's important that the person who appraises your item is a trustworthy professional. You don't want to waste your money on an "appraiser" whose information is not correct.[8] It's also important to hire a professional appraiser who is not also a dealer because they will not have a conflict of interest when appraising your item. [9] Here are some tips for picking the right appraiser:
- A trustworthy appraiser will never offer to buy your item from you. If they do, kick them to the curb.
- Never hire an appraiser who will charge you a percentage of the value of your item. A trustworthy appraiser will charge a flat or hourly fee for their services. This fee can be several hundred dollars.
- Get references for trustworthy appraisers. Estate attorneys, antique dealers, and others who work with appraisers regularly are good resources for finding an appraiser. You can also find an appraiser through professional organizations like Appraisers Association of America, Inc. and the American Society of Appraisers.
- Talk to several appraisers before choosing one. You'll want to pick an appraiser who specializes in the kind of item you want to sell. Make sure to ask for a written estimate of the kind of fee the appraiser will charge and how long the appraisal will take. [10]
- Go to an auction house appraiser. Auction houses like Sotheby's and Christie's also offer appraisals. Sometimes—but not always—these appraisals are free. To find out when the auction houses near you are offering a free "valuation" or "appraisal day" to the public, check their websites. [11]
- Get a written report of your appraisal. A good appraiser will give you a written report that includes a detailed description of your item as well as a thorough outline of the steps the appraiser took in valuing your item. [12] It will also include the reasons for the appraisal and a list of who handled your item (if there was more than one person). The appraiser should give you an exact number for the item's worth, rather than an estimate. [13]
[Edit]Getting an Online Valuation - Find the right website. There are lots of websites where you can get your item appraised by a professional appraiser. Search for websites which specialize in the kind of item you are trying to sell. Lots of websites are geared toward very specific kinds of antiques or collectibles, from furniture to stamps to vintage toys.
- Once you choose your appraiser, you will send them photos and descriptions of your item. Usually within about a week, the appraiser will send back an estimate of your item's value. [14]
- Take good pictures of your item. Because online appraisers depend on photos to make their valuations, it's important that the photos you send are high in quality. [15]
- Send photos of the item from every angle. Include close-ups of any distinct details in your item. Make sure your photos are well-lit, in color, and not blurry.
- Don't hide any flaws in your item or misrepresent it. Don't alter your photo to make your item look better than it does in person. Make sure to include photos of any damaged parts of your item, as well. Hiding or omitting flaws may get you a higher valuation for your item, but that value will not carry over when you try to sell it.
- Be prepared to pay for your appraisal. The upside of using an online appraiser is that they are less expensive than in-person appraisers. Online appraisals vary in cost, but you can expect to pay at least $10-30. [16]
- Take internet appraisals with a grain of salt. Because online appraisers don't come in contact with your item, their appraisals cannot be as thorough as you'd get from an in-person appraisal. The best way to get an accurate appraisal of the value of your item is to hire an in-person appraiser. [17]
- It might be useful to get an online appraisal if you're not sure whether your item is valuable enough to be worth paying an in-person appraiser.
[Edit]Using a Price Guide - Look for price guides specializing in items like yours. A price guide is a book full of descriptions of specific types of items (antique furniture, baseball cards, stamps, etc.), along with the prices you can expect to get for each item. The best guide to use will depend on the kind of item you want to sell. [18] Kovel's, in particular, is a highly respected publisher of price guides. [19] Many libraries have price guides on their shelves, too.
- Choose the right price guide. Make sure that your price guide is up-to-date and recent. Because the prices of antiques and collectibles change depending on markets, an outdated price guide will not give you an accurate idea of how much your item is worth. [20]The best price guides will also include plenty of pictures of the items included in its pages.
- Take pricing from price guides with a grain of salt. The descriptions and values listed in price guides are general estimates. They cannot account for the wide variations in the quality and condition of specific items, economic conditions, or demand in specific regions. [21]
[Edit]References |
| How to Use Jojoba Oil to Enhance Dry Hair Posted: 09 Mar 2022 08:00 AM PST Jojoba oil comes from an herb that grows in the middle of the desert. This amazing oil is usually used to treat and condition hair and skin. If your hair is dry and damaged try incorporating jojoba oil into your beauty routine. You'll have glowing, beautiful locks in no time! [Edit]Applying Jojoba Oil as a Leave-In Treatment - Purchase jojoba oil. Jojoba oil can be found at specialty herbal shops, beauty supply stores, and nicer grocery stores. Most stores stock it in the skincare section. Look for pure jojoba oil instead of beauty products with jojoba oil in them. If you're having trouble finding it ask a store associate for help.
- Alternatively, you can use argan oil for moisturizing dry hair without making it look greasy.[1]
- Determine how often you will treat your hair. If your hair is damaged and dry, start by doing a leave-in treatment once a week. If your hair is dry but not very damaged, do a treatment every two or three weeks. If you start to notice that your hair looks limp and oily, do the treatments less often. Inversely, if your hair still seems dry, do the treatments more often.
- If you do too many treatments and your hair looks oily, shampoo your hair to remove the excess oil.
- Apply the oil to your scalp. First, dip your fingertips into the bowl of oil. Next, massage the oil into your scalp. Make sure to cover the easy-to-miss spots behind your ears and at the nape of your neck. Focus on covering every inch of your scalp and the first half-inch of hair growth.[2]
- Bend over forward to reach your roots more easily.
- Apply the oil to your ends. Once your scalp is saturated with oil, apply it to the rest of your hair. Pour out some jojoba oil into your palm and work it into your hair. Apply a thick coat from roots to tips. Depending on how thick your hair is, you may need to use more jojoba oil than you might expect.
- When in doubt, use more jojoba oil than you think you'll need. It's better to apply too much than not enough.
- Let the treatment soak into your hair before washing. You can leave the oil treatment in your hair from 20 minutes to overnight. The longer you leave the treatment in your hair the more time the oil will have to soften your dry locks. Next, wash your hair normally. If you have a lot of trouble washing out the oil you may have to shampoo your hair twice.[3]
- If you leave the treatment in your hair overnight, wear a shower cap to protect your pillowcase from oil stains.
[Edit]Washing your Hair with Jojoba Oil - Mix the oil with shampoo or conditioner. If you want a daily moisture boost, try mixing jojoba oil with your favorite shampoo or conditioner. First, pour a small amount of shampoo or conditioner into a small bowl. Next, add a few drops of jojoba oil. Mix the ingredients together with a spoon until they're completely blended. Wash your hair and style it normally.
- The more damaged your hair is, the more jojoba oil you should add. Experiment with different amounts to see what works for you.
- Make your own jojoba oil conditioner. Mix together a 1 ¼ teaspoon of Guar gum, ¾ teaspoon jojoba oil, and a cup of distilled water into a bottle. A few drops of other nourishing mineral oils such as lavender and sandalwood can be added as well. Shake the bottle well to combine the ingredients. Use the mixture as a conditioner after shampooing.[4]
- Guar gum can be purchased at most herbal shops, nicer grocery stores, and online.
- Make your own jojoba oil shampoo. First, make a tea by boiling ½ cup distilled water and 2 tablespoons of dried peppermint leaves and letting it steep for 20 minutes. Strain the tea and pour it into a large bottle. Mix in ¼ cup of liquid castile soap, 2 tablespoons vegetable glycerin, ½ teaspoon jojoba oil, and ½ teaspoon of honey. Shake the bottle well to combine the ingredients.[5]
- Liquid castile soap and vegetable glycerin can be found in boutique herbal shops, larger grocery stores, and online.
- If you can't find dried peppermint leaves, substitute herbal peppermint tea. Just be sure that the only ingredient is peppermint.
- Jojoba oil can be used to cure a dry scalp and repair damaged hair. It has also been shown to stimulate new hair growth.
- Add other mineral oils to your jojoba oil to improve the scent and increase the nourishing properties.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Play Rugby Posted: 09 Mar 2022 12:00 AM PST Rugby is a complicated, intense game, which consists of 15 players on each team on a field of 100 meters long and 70 meters wide. The basic rules are not so difficult that you need a lifetime to learn them, however you still need a couple of hours game-time to be able to understand the structure and game-play of Rugby. The concept of a game of Rugby is simple: two teams try and gain the most points in 80 minutes by trying to score points in the other team's half. The ball can never be passed forward only backwards or perpendicular, a team can only advance by passing or kicking the ball. Any team can win the ball at any time, this is usually done by the forward pack which consists of 8 players, You also have a Back-line which consists of 7 Players. The forward pack is made up by Two Props(1 and 3), one Hooker(2), Two Locks(4-5) and Three Loose forwards(6,7,8). The Back-line is up made up by the Scrum Half(9), Fly-Half(10), Left-wing(11)Inside-center(12), Outside-Center(13), Right-Wing(14) and the Full-Back(15). The details of the game, however, may need some explaining. Note: This article is about playing the most common form of rugby, Rugby Union. [Edit]Understanding the Basics - Win by scoring more points than your opponent. Score tries by carrying the ball into Your opponent's try-zone, ( penalty tries can also be awarded from any infringements from the opposing team.) A try is worth 5 points.
- When a try is scored an opportunity is given to the scoring team to make a conversion kick which is worth 2 points.
- The other way of gaining extra points for Your team is with penalty kicks, this is awarded when a member of the opposing team breaks a rule or if the play of the game is stopped by more than one member of that team. a Penalty kick is worth 3 Points.
- The last method of gaining points is with a drop-goal attempt, the ball is played backwards to a back-row player who then attempts to place the ball in between the uprights during ongoing game play, this is also worth 3 points.
- The field is cut in half, and at each end is a 10-meter zone known as the "try-zone." If you get the ball into your opponent's try zone you get 5 points, as well as a chance to attempt a conversion kick for an extra 2 points. The winner is the one who scores the most points in 80 minutes of play.
- You have to touch the ball down to score in rugby. That means after you've entered the try zone the ball must be placed on the ground to score.[1]
- You can also kick the ball through the uprights during free play (with a drop-kick only) or after the referee awards your team a penalty (place kick) for 3 points.
- Understand that the ball can only be thrown backward or sideways. To score tries, offense teams form big horizontal lines, passing sideways and backward until they expose a hole in the defense and push forward. This is the big rule to remember when playing rugby. You cannot pass the ball forward with your hands or it is an automatic penalty. Whenever passing, you usually pass the ball across your body to get power and throw the ball diagonally to your teammate.
- Dropping or bobbling the ball counts as a forward pass if it hits your hands then hits the ground in front of you.
- You can, of course, carry the ball forward. However, any passes by the hand cannot be forward.
- Kick it forward to pass to yourself or your teammates. While you cannot ever throw a ball forward, you can kick it forward at any time. Once you kick the ball, any teammate that was behind you when you kicked it can run forward and get the ball without a penalty. Kicks are a great way to surprise a defense, or boot the ball way down the field to get your team out of trouble.
- Players can even kick it to themselves, chipping it over an opponent and running around to pick it up.
- You cannot kick the ball to a teammate who is already further down the field than you unless you run past them at some point. If a player was behind you at any time after your kick they can touch the ball. If not, they are offside.[2]
- Tackle the ball carrier to stop the opponent's attack. Rugby defense is all about making tackles. You can only hit the player currently holding the ball, and you cannot block or screen the other team or other players. When you tackle an opponent, your goal is to bring them to the ground as quickly as possible, preferably with teammates around to quickly help win the ball. General tackling rules include:
- You must tackle someone below shoulder height.
- You must wrap your hands around the player, not just spear them with your shoulder.
- You cannot pick up and drop players, especially on their head or neck.
- Once down, you must return to your feet before trying to win the ball from someone you've tackled.[3]
- Form rucks whenever someone gets tackled to keep possession of the ball. When a player goes down, they must release the ball. From there, either team can fight to win the ball off the ground and take possession. This usually takes place as a "ruck." A ruck is when 1-3 players from each team lock into one another, right above the ball (and tackled player), and push each other back and forth in an attempt to win possession. One player on each team stands behind the ruck and grabs the ball when it appears behind their rucking teammate's back foot. Because the tackled player can put the ball down wherever they want, the team that had the ball first usually controls it. There are a lot of rules and strategy for contesting a ruck, but some basic reminders include:
- Stay on your feet. A ruck is when at least two players lock shoulders above the ball and try and push the opponent away from the ball. You cannot reach in to grab the ball or push off the ground with your hands.
- Enter through the center. For safety reasons, you must enter a ruck straight up and lock in with the other team. You must be perpendicular to the end line, and your body must be straight over the ball. You cannot run into a ruck diagonally or from the side.
- Stay behind the back foot if not in the ruck. Once a ruck is formed, you must stay behind the back foot of your final teammate until the ball comes out, no matter what team gets it. The entire space of the ruck is a "neutral zone" that no players can enter it.[4]
- Form scrums to contest penalty calls. When a penalty (such as passing it forward) is called for your team, you get several options of restarts, depending on the foul. One of the most common is a scrum, where both teams form into battering rams and connect over the ball. A scrum is essentially a test of strength. In a scrum, 8 players from each team weave themselves together in rows to create a unified mass. The two teams then go head-to-head, each pushing against the other, with a tunnel formed on the ground in between them.
- In a scrum, one team throws the ball in the center of the two teams and they push and hook each other to try and win the ball.
- Scrums suck all the biggest players to one area of the field, leaving the other seven players with much more free space. If your team wins it, you're often off for a big gain.
- Scrums are perhaps the most dangerous aspect of rugby, and you should not try them without a coach and well-trained, athletic players.[5]
- Use line-outs to restart the ball after it leaves the sidelines. If a ball goes out of bounds the referee will call for a line-out. A line-out is like a throw-in in soccer, except the ball must be thrown straight forward. Each team forms a line on the field around the thrower. The team that did not touch the ball last gets to throw it in. They then toss the ball straight in between the two teams, who lift each other up to try and win the ball. The game then restarts as normal.
- Teams often use signals and codes to win their own line-outs. Basically, a thrower will signal to their team when they will throw it, and their teammates will hoist a player into the air, out of reach of the other team, to grab the ball quickly.
- Recognize the difference between forwards and backs on a team. Each team is made up of two smaller sections, each with their own positions and strengths. Forwards take part in the scrum, and this is the only real difference between them an backs as far as rules go. However, forwards and backs have evolved their own specialties on the field, making each vital to success:
- Forwards/Packies: These are the big guys -- the bruisers and muscle-men who power the scrums and win most of your rucks. Forwards generally take short, powerful runs with the ball, pass less, and do the majority of tackling and defense. Generally thicker and stronger.
- Backs: The runners and speedsters. Backs form a long diagonal line on offense and pass the ball quickly down the line, to the outside of the field, where they can take on a defender 1v1. On defense they form a wall across the field to prevent enemy backs from breaking through. Generally quicker, backs are good kickers, have solid passing skills, and tons of speed/endurance.[6]
- Watch professional rugby to discover complex rules, strategies, and nuance. Watch local and professional teams' matches or practices in order to see how the game is played. You can also watch matches on television or recordings such as DVDs. Watching how a game is played in real life or through recordings allows you to see the intricacies of the sport.
- There are a lot of small rules, specific situations, and intricacies to rugby that are impossible to learn without playing or watching. Ask questions of fans and/or the referee when confused, and keep learning each game each time you play.
[Edit]Learning the Basic Skills - Throw with speed and accuracy by spinning the ball. A good rugby throw is powerful and quick, which protects your teammate from a nasty tackle as they watch the ball approaching them. Practice throwing to your side, not in front of you. To get a good throw, use both hands and focus on accuracy first, hitting your teammates right in the chest every time. Once you feel accurate you can start working on a professional-looking spin. To throw from the right hand:
- Start with the ball horizontally in front of you. Place your right hand on the back third of the ball, so your palm faces down and your thumb towards your target. Place your left hand on the bottom left half of the ball, thumb pointing left.
- Bring the ball to your right side, keeping the point of the ball still roughly pointing at your target.
- Using your left hand for aim and right for power, bring the ball across your body and towards your target.
- As your hands are almost extended, curl your right hand back towards you, spinning the ball.
- Release the ball with both hands simultaneously, rotating your wrist completely over on the follow-through. Both arms should be fully extended and pointed at your target, and your arms should stay low, around belly height. the whole time.[7]
- Tackle with your whole body, not just your arms. Tackling is a skill that can be developed over a lifetime, but the basics are simple. You want to let your whole body do the work, not just your arms, to protect yourself and to ensure that you bring the guy down. Practice doing the following steps near simultaneously -- keeping your head up, driving with the shoulder, wrapping your arms, and driving to the ground:
- Set up on the balls of your feet. Make sure you are in a good athletic position for the hit -- knees bent, muscles relaxed, on your toes.
- Keep your head up and aim for their thighs/stomach. Keep your head up to see contact coming and line up the hit. This is a crucial step for safety.
- Aim to make contact with your shoulder right at their upper thigh. Slide your head next to their butt to keep it safe and drive in with your shoulder.
- Wrap your arms around their thighs and pull back. Pull their thighs into a deep hug -- this causes them to lose balance easily.
- Drive with your legs to bring them down. Once you've got your head in place and your arms wrapped, you want to push with your legs to bring them down.
- Attack rucks to shift the balance of momentum in the game. A ruck is your regular chance to keep or steal possession, and a good rucker is an invaluable asset on the team. If you see a teammate go down with the ball and you're nearby, try and be the first one in the ruck. Set one foot over the ball so that it is underneath you, then lean down into a low athletic position. When you've made contact with someone, win rucks using strength and leverage:
- Get underneath the opponent and push up and out. If you can get your shoulders or head under their chest, you can push them up to throw them off balance, then back to remove them from the ruck.
- Push teammates from behind to win contested rucks. If it looks like your team needs a boost, push your ruck through like a minor-scrum. Remember, however, that committing more than 2-3 people to a ruck leaves a lot of holes in the defense if you lose.
- Keep your feet moving through the ruck. To really crush rucks, chop your feet and push forward with every step. Imagine running straight through the player to the other side. This is called "clearing" a ruck, and it opens up a lot of space. If you're on defense and you can clear a ruck, even if you can't win the ball immediately, you'll throw the other team into disarray.[8]
- Always be in a position of support for teammates. Rugby is not an individually dominated sport. Even the best player will be unable to do anything without the support of teammates, as there are very few times a solo athlete has space or time to make a play themselves. On both defense and offense you should be in the best possible place to support your teammates, no matter what:
- On defense, you need to be in a horizontal line with your teammates, sliding left and right to close up any holes the opponent might try to push through. Once a teammate makes a tackle, you should either jump in the ruck if it is open or winnable or slide to either side of the teammate to make sure the other team doesn't exploit the gap while he is down from the tackle,
- On offense, you need to spread out, forcing the other team to cover many angles. When a teammate is running, make sure you are always behind them and they have 1-2 people in passing range. If they get tackled, they may try a quick pass to you as they go down, leaving you plenty of time to run.[9]
[Edit]Setting Up a Game - Find a large, flat field. Rugby can be played in any large field, so long as it is relatively flat and evenly sized. The size of the field will largely depend upon how seriously you intend to play. If you wish to simply play the game with a few friends, a local park with any large field may be enough. However, if you wish to play a proper match, you will need a field with two uprights for the extra point. Contact your local Parks and Recreation department or a local rugby club to find out about proper fields in your area.
- As long as you can mark out try-zones for each team, any rectangular patch of grass should be fine.
- Though the dimensions are slightly different, an American football field can fill in for a rugby field in a pinch.
- Form two even teams of players. There are three commonly played forms of rugby, where the biggest difference is in the number of players. Real games have 15, 10, or 7 players on each team, but you can play with as many players as you want if you're just with friends. Each player should have:
- Athletic shoes, preferably with cleats in the bottom.
- Light, breathable clothing.
- Mouth guards and/or head protection, if desired.
- Water.[10]
- Decide which forwards will play which positions in the scrum. Forwards are generally placed in position based on the scrum, and their positions does not necessarily impact where they will be during the rest of the game. What matters most is your scrum position:
 - First row. The first row contains three players: the loose head prop and the tight head prop, who grip the hooker in between them.The role of the hooker is to gain possession of the ball during scrums and usually throw the ball in at line-outs. The role of the loose and tight head props is to support the hooker during scrums, support other players during line-outs and provide strength during rucks and mauls. The props are your two biggest players.
- Second row. The second row consists of two locks. These are the tallest players in the team and are generally used in line-outs to gain possession of the ball. They drive their shoulders into the props and are the engines of your scrums and rucks.
- Back row. The back row of forwards consists of three players: two flankers and the eight-man. They clasp onto the two sides and back and control the direction of the scrum, as well as the ball if it squeezes out. Generally these three are your fastest forwards, as they can quickly dart off the scrum when play restarts.
- Build up your line of backs based on speed and ball handling ability. Backs need to be good with their hands, and the best players need to be the first ones touching the ball. To visualize your back line, imagine the ball on the right side of the field. Each player will be 10-15 feet diagonally to the left of the other, starting with the scrum-half:
 - Scrum-half: They start the ball from a ruck or scrum, pulling it out and determining the first player to get the ball. They must be light, small, and have considerable endurance to reach every ruck or scrum first. Most importantly, they need to see the whole field and distribute the ball accordingly.
- Fly-half: The quarterback for the backs. They run most of the kicking and run plays, like skipping a pass or fake passes, to try and break down the opponent's defense.
- Centers: There are two of them, and they are good overall players who can tackle well on defense, run and pass well in the middle, and kick if need be. They get the ball often and challenge the opponent's back line.
- Wings: Two wings that stay on each side-line, these are usually the fastest players. Your goal is to get them the ball on the outside, where they can hopefully outrun the opponents wing for massive gains.
- Fullback: She/he sits 15 meters or so behind the line, ready to get an opponent's kick, make a last-second tackle, or sprint forward to unexpectedly join the offense and overload a team. Must be versatile, able to kick and catch, and fast.
- Designate a referee to enforce penalties. There are several ways in which a penalty may be earned, and it is impossible to play the game and keep an eye out for every infraction. Minor infractions will likely result in a scrum being awarded to the other team. Others may cause a referee to take more serious action, giving a penalty kick, a "back ten" (when the team gets 10 meters to run the ball for free), or removing a player for some time.
- Common offenses include incorrect tackling, collapsing a scrum or ruck by leaving your feet, holding the ball when on the ground, and entering rucks incorrectly.
- The team awarded the penalty has several options. They can take a kick or punt, which will allow them to gain field position. They can take a penalty kick at the uprights for a chance at 3 points, or they can take a scrum, all in the location of the penalty.
- Warm up your whole body before playing to avoid dangerous injuries. A game of rugby is physically intense, and you're incredibly prone to injury if you don't prepare. A good warm-up increases blood flow and prepares your muscles for the beating to come. A good, simple warm up to start with would include:[11]
 - 10-minute light jog. Running is an excellent way to warm up for rigorous physical activity. Begin by walking briskly for 5 minutes, followed by 10 minutes of light jogging to prepare yourself for running. [12]
- Dynamic stretching. Run with high knees, kick your ankle with your heel with each step, do some lunges, jump in place, swing your arms, and skip. These exaggerated, mobile stretches loosen your muscles more effectively than static stretching.
- Warm up rugby skills. Pass with a partner, take some kicks, and do some light rucking. Get used to rugby specific actions, even tackling at half-speed. Your forwards should do some practice scrums and lineouts, and your backs should get used to passing in a line.
- Drink water and eat at least 2 hours before playing. Hydration is essential in physical activity. In order to combat the loss of and increased use of water during exercise, it is important to stay well hydrated throughout the day but especially right before activity. The other essential nutrients used and expelled by your body during exercise are salt and potassium, eating lean meats, fruits, vegetables, and sports drinks/food.[13]
- Start the game with a kickoff. This is traditionally started by a coin toss, in order to determine which team will have first possession of the ball. You can toss coins or decide who starts in some other manner. Positioned at the center of the field, the team which has first possession will then kick the ball towards the opposition.
- Most rules state that this must be a drop-kick. It needs to go 10-meters before the ball can be played.
- If you are on the kicking team, you cannot pass the kicker until the ball has left his foot.
- After your team scores a try, the other team must kick it off to you again.[14]
- Play some touch rugby-- where two hands is all you need for a tackle -- to learn the rules and basic strategy of the game before worrying about the physical contact.
- Rugby is a sport meant to be fun, and the aim of the game should not be to injure your opponents; rather, it should be to score tries and kick into the posts.
[Edit]Warnings - Rugby is a dangerous sport if you don't know what you're doing. Practice tackling, rucking, and scrumming at half-speed until you have the form down.
- Wear protective gear like gum shields or scrump caps when playing full contact rugby. It is all fun and games until somebody gets hurt.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Hold a Door Open with a Coin Posted: 08 Mar 2022 04:00 PM PST Doors that shut on their own are designed that way for a reason. They can be built to prevent the spread of fire and smoke in a building and also keep the bugs and insects away from the cool refreshing air.[1] You may need to hold the door open temporarily. Placing a coin in a door will not hold it open wide enough to walk in and out of the door. However, it will prevent the door from closing all the way. If you're moving small furniture in and out of your home during moving, this can be helpful. It eliminates the need to unlock the door or turn the knob each time, as you can merely push against the door to get it to swing open. If you need to prop a door open wider, use a door stop or a heavy object instead of a coin. [Edit]Placing a Coin in the Door Hinge - Grab a coin. Canadian/US Quarter or 20/50 Euro Cents work well. Avoid using small coins like pennies or dimes as they do not have enough surface area to hold the door open. You may need more than one coin if you're unable to jam the door open with a single coin.
- If you're in another country like Australia or South Korea, use the largest and thickest coin possible.[2]
- Open the door slightly. To start, open the door slightly. Open it just enough that you can fit a coin between the edge of the door near the hinges and the door frame. You may want to have someone hold the door open for you. It can be difficult to hold the door open on your own, and you do not want to prop the door open with another object. If the door is propped open too wide, it may be difficult to properly insert the coin.
- Insert the coin into the upper hinge. To start, you'll want to insert one coin in the door's upper hinge. Take your coin and position it just below the top hinge of the door.
- Place the coin between the edge of the door and the door frame. About half the coin should be between the door and frame.
- Move the coin upward slightly and push it into the door's hinge. Let the door close. With luck, the door should be propped open just slightly to the point you can push the door open without during the handle.
- Secure the coin with tape, if necessary. If your door's hinge is wider, the coin may slip out. Therefore, you may need to secure coin in the door frame with a piece of tape. Go for masking tape or duct tape over scotch tape, as these types of tape tend to be stronger. Push the coin back between the door and door frame, and slide it into the hinge. Once the coin's in place, tape it down with a strip of tape.
- Try a coin in the lower hinge if this does not work. Depending on the build of your door, this method may not work. If you're unsuccessful, you can try securing a coin in the bottom hinge as well. Follow the same method as you did when placing a coin in the top hinge. If this still does not work, you should try another method. No method will work on every type of door.
[Edit]Taping a Coin Over the Strike Plate - Identify the strike plate. You can also hold a door open with a coin using the door's striker plate. First, identify the strike plate on your door. The strike plate is the metal part of your door affixed to the door jamb. It is found on the side of the door, near the doorknob. The strike plate usually has bolts installed to hold it to the edge of your door. It's main purpose is to prevent friction as the door opens and closes. If you place coins over the striker plate, they may prevent the door from swinging closed.
- Tape a coin over the door's strike plate. Take your coin and place it somewhere on the strike plate. It does not matter where you place coin. Just make sure the coin is somewhere on the metallic strike plate. Use thick tape, like masking tape or duct tape.
- You may want to place the coin over the door's latch. This can hold the door handle at an open angle, allowing you to push the door open and closed without turning the knob. This will also prevent the door from locking.
- However, placing the coin on the door latch may not hold the door open. Depending on the gap between your door and door frame, it may just allow you to push the door open and closed.
- Add more coins to the striker plate if you're unsuccessful. One coin may not be enough to successfully hold your door open. If there's a larger gap between your door and door frame, a single coin may not be thick enough. If one coin does not work, tape another over the first coin. You may have to add quite a few coins before your door is successfully propped open with coins.
[Edit]Taking Safety Precautions - Do not prop a door open around children. You want to be careful when propping doors open if you live with young children. A door could swing open and closed fast if a child fell or pushed on it. This could cause injury. If you need to prop a door open, do so only when your children are secured elsewhere.
- Make sure animals will not get out if a door is propped open. If you have pets, do not leave a door propped open unless you're supervising them. A larger dog could push a propped door open and get loose. Make sure to secure animals in another room before propping a door open with a coin.
- Use a conventional door stop or bigger objects on a larger door. A heavier door will be unlikely to be propped open by a coin. The force of a heavy door can easily dislodge a coin doorstop, even one that is carefully taped down. If you need to hold open a larger door, use a bigger object like a chair or cinderblock. You can also purchase a door stop at a local hardware store.
- A golf ball can be used to hold open some larger doors.
- If you find a door wedge or stopper, use that instead.
- Instead of a coin, have a friend hold the door open for you.
[Edit]Warnings - As convenient as this may be, it could be unsafe and/or illegal to prop open a fire door or one which automatically locks when it closes. Doing so could jeopardize yours and others' safety.[3]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Make Bean Soup Posted: 08 Mar 2022 08:00 AM PST Beans are a delicious, filling, and very cheap ingredient that work with almost any meal. If you're heading into the colder seasons, there's nothing that will warm you up quite like a big bowl of soup. By making a simple bean soup, and customizing it to your own tastes, you can have a delicious dish for any occasion. [Edit]Ingredients - of olive oil
- 2 onions
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 2 sticks of celery
- 1 tablespoon (17 g) of salt
- 1 tablespoon (6 g) of pepper
- 2 14-oz (400-g) cans of beans, such as black or cannellini beans
- of liquid stock, like chicken or vegetable
- 2 red or green bell peppers (optional)
- 1 tablespoon (6 g) of thyme, rosemary, oregano, or cilantro (optional)
- 1 teaspoon (2 g) of chili powder or cayenne pepper (optional)
- 1 tablespoon (6 g) of smoked paprika (optional)
- Shredded or diced meat, such as chicken, ham, or beef (optional)
- of cream or milk (optional)
- 4 eggs (optional)
- Fresh bread or tortillas (optional)
Makes 4 servings [Edit]Sauteing the Vegetables - Heat some olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Pour roughly of olive oil into a large saucepan and place it over a medium heat. Let the oil begin warming, to the point that it is easily moved around the bottom of the saucepan when tilted.[1]
- Any other cooking oil will work here, such as vegetable or canola, but it may not taste quite the same. If you don't like the taste of olive oil, use an oil that you enjoy instead.
- You can begin cutting up the vegetables in the next few steps while waiting for the oil to heat up, which should save on time.
- Dice onions and garlic and add them to the pot. Place the 2 onions on a chopping board. Cut them in half lengthways, peel away the outer layers, and use a sharp knife to dice them finely. Peel and dice 2 cloves of garlic as well, and add them to the saucepan with the hot oil to begin sauteing.[2]
- There are plenty of different ways to cut onion and garlic. Choose an easy method that works for you.
- Trim and slice 2 sticks of celery. Place 2 sticks of celery on a chopping board and slice in half lengthways. Line the celery sticks up and use a sharp knife to cut them into chunks that are roughly in width. Add the chopped celery to the pan with the onion, garlic, and oil.[3]
- The celery will help add a little sweetness and freshness to the soup, but it can also be left out if you don't like the taste.
- Chop up some bell peppers for a spicier soup. If you like a little more heat or spiciness, you can add some bell peppers or capsicum to the soup. Cut up a few bell peppers into a rough, dice and add them to the saucepan to begin cooking.[4]
- For a little more variety, use 1 green bell pepper and 1 red bell pepper, chopped in the same way.
- If you want even more of a kick to your soup, try adding some finely diced chili peppers as well. Finely slice 1 fresh red chili pepper and add it to the saucepan with the other ingredients.
- Mix in any other vegetables you want to. One of the great things about soup is how easy it is to customize and how difficult it is to mess up. Add any other vegetables you have in your kitchen to the soup, chopping them into roughly pieces before stirring them in.
- Mushrooms, potatoes, carrots, and peas could all make great additions to this soup. Add whatever you have on hand and see how it tastes!
- Cook the vegetables for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they are fragrant. Use a wooden spoon to stir the vegetables around in the pot as they cook to ensure they cook evenly. Let them saute for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the onion is translucent and all of the other vegetables become fragrant.[5]
- While they will cook further as the soup cooks, sauteing the vegetables first will make the whole dish taste much better. If you're particularly short on time, you can throw them into the saucepan with all the other ingredients to cook.
- The vegetables should be vibrant colors and just beginning to soften after around 10 to 15 minutes. These signs, along with the more fragrant aroma of the vegetables, are a good sign that they are ready.
- Add salt, pepper, and any other seasonings you like. As with any dish, you should season it with salt and pepper as you cook. Sprinkle over roughly 1 tablespoon (17 g) of salt and 1 tablespoon (6 g) of black pepper and stir to combine. If you want to add any other flavors or seasonings to the soup, mix them in now.[6]
- For a little aromatic freshness, try mixing in 1 tablespoon (6 g) of thyme, rosemary, oregano, or cilantro.
- If you want a little extra spiciness, add in 1 teaspoon (2 g) of chili powder or cayenne pepper.
- For a slightly smoky flavor in your soup, mix in 1 tablespoon (6 g) of smoked paprika.
[Edit]Cooking the Beans - Pour 2 cans of tinned beans into the saucepan. You can use almost any type of bean that you like or just that you have on hand for a bean soup. Pour 2 14-oz (40- g) cans of black, kidney, cannellini, or whatever other types of canned bean you have into the saucepan and stir to combine.[7]
- You can also use dried beans that have soaked first instead. Boil 1 cup (225 g) of dried beans in enough water to cover them for around 2 minutes, before leaving them to soak for around 1 hour.
- Use whichever type of bean you like the most, or whichever one you have the easiest access to.
- Add of stock to the pot. The stock will help build some of the flavors of the soup, as well as giving the beans something more to cook in. Add around of whatever stock you have on hand or that you enjoy. Chicken and vegetable stock will both work excellently, but you can easily use beef stock or even just water instead.[8]
- For a slightly more complex flavor in your finished soup, try adding different types of stock. Use each of chicken and vegetable stock, or any other combination you like. Soup is easy to customize and very difficult to mess up, so see what flavors you can come up with to complement the beans!
- Stir in some diced ham or bacon for a meatier soup. If you want some extra protein or flavor in your soup, roughly chop up some ham, fried bacon, cooked sausage, or whatever other meat you have available. Scatter over the top of your soup and mix it in.[9]
- This is another great point to customize your soup to your own preferences. Leftover chicken, beef, lamb, ham, meatballs, and anything else can add some more flavor to the soup.
- Use roughly 1 cup (125 g to 175 g) of whatever diced meat you choose to use. You can add more or less depending on how meaty you want your soup to be.
- If you're a vegetarian or vegan, or you simply don't want to add meat to your soup, feel free to skip this step.
- Bring the soup to a simmer and cook for 40 minutes. Give the soup a good final stir to make sure all of the ingredients are well incorporated and combined. Reduce the heat to low and bring the soup to a simmer. Cover it and leave it to simmer for around 40 minutes, giving it time to thicken up and cook the beans.[10]
- If you want a thicker soup, remove the lid after 40 minutes and let it simmer for a further 10 minutes. This will let more liquid cook off and result in a thicker, heartier soup.
[Edit]Finishing the Soup - Blend the soup to your desired consistency. Once you've given the soup enough time to simmer and cook, take it off the heat. Use a hand or stick blender to begin processing the soup and blending some of the beans and other ingredients. This will make it creamier and a little smoother.[11]
- The more you blend your soup, the thicker and smoother it will be. For a thinner soup with more chunks, blend the soup for only a few seconds. Alternately, you can avoid blending it at all for a very thin and chunky soup.
- If you prefer your soup to be thick and very smooth, blend it until all of the beans have been processed and the soup reaches a creamier consistency.
- If you don't have a hand or stick blender, you can pour your soup in the jug of a standard kitchen blender to process it slightly. You may need to work in batches depending on the size of your blender.
- Add some milk or cream for some extra richness. If you want your soup to be a little richer or creamier, measure out roughly of milk or cream and pour into the simmered soup. Mix it thoroughly to combine for a slightly smoother and richer soup.[12]
- If you want to keep this recipe vegan, you can skip this step entirely.
- You could also use the same amount of sour cream or yogurt for extra thickness and creaminess. However, this will also impart the flavor of your chosen yogurt or sour cream into the soup. If you don't like the taste of sour cream, yogurt, milk, or cream, then leave them out of this dish.
- Poach some eggs in the soup for some extra protein. Once you've blended the soup to your desired consistency, place it back over a medium heat and bring it to a simmer. Break 4 eggs into the soup so that they are spread apart and just submerged. Leave the eggs to cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes or until the whites are cooked and the yolks are runny.[13]
- When serving, fill a bowl with soup and place the poached eggs onto it last. When you pierce the yolk, it will run across the soup, both looking and tasting incredible.
- Break the eggs, one at a time, into a small bowl first. Use the bowl to pour the eggs carefully into the soup. This will help keep the eggs together as you transfer them to the saucepan.
- Serve the soup with some fresh bread or warmed tortillas. Spoon the soup into a large bowl while it is still hot to serve. Eat it alongside some freshly cooked or lightly toasted bread, or opt for some tortillas that have been warmed through as an accompaniment.[14]
- Once cooked, you can store the soup in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days.
- Soup is easily customizable to whatever flavors you like. Use whatever beans, stock, vegetables, or flavorings you enjoy to make this soup perfect for you.
- If you leave the soup to simmer for too long and it becomes too thick, you can thin it slightly with milk, cream, water, or some more of your chosen stock.
[Edit]Warnings - Use oven mitts or a dry tea towel to handle the pot once the soup has simmered, as it will be very hot.
- If you add chili peppers to the soup, make sure you wear gloves while handling them or wash your hands thoroughly afterward.
- Be careful when lifting the lid off of the simmered soup, as built up steam may escape quickly. Never stand over the pot as you take the lid off.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Large saucepan with lid
- Stovetop or hotplate
- Cutting board
- Knife
- Wooden spoon
- Hand blender, stick blender, or kitchen blender
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Curl Ribbon Posted: 08 Mar 2022 12:00 AM PST There are a variety of ways to curl ribbon, whether it's a curling ribbon for a package or a bit of fabric ribbon for a hair clip. You can curl a curling ribbon with just a pair of scissors. Fabric ribbon, on the other hand, needs to be baked, or have a starch solution applied to it. Either way, it isn't that hard! [Edit]Using Curling Ribbon - Cut your curling ribbon to the desired length. If you're not sure, cut about 12 inches (about 30 centimeters). If this isn't long enough, you can cut off a longer piece. Remember that when you curl a ribbon it will get shorter, so take that into account.[1]
- Find the natural curl of the ribbon. Even when the curling ribbon hasn't been curled, it will have a natural curl to it. You will want to follow that natural curl when you're using the scissors to curl it.[2]
- Note which side is shiny and which is dull. The dull side will need to face downwards, towards the ground, when you're curling the ribbon with scissors. Typically the curl follows the shinier side of the ribbon.[3]
- Grasp one end of the ribbon between your forefinger and thumb. You want to pull this as taut as possible. It depends on whether you've already tied it to a package, or whether you're going to do that after you've curled the ribbon.[4]
- It's easier to tie the ribbon on the package and then curl it because then you only have to grip it on one end. Otherwise, you have to tape down one end to hold it in place.
- If you're right-handed, place the ribbon in your left hand, and vice versa if you're left-handed.
- Hold the scissors upward, with the blades facing up and open. Wrap your fingers around the middle of the blades and handles (in the X that's created when the scissors are opened up). Your thumb should be holding the ribbon against the sharpened edge of the scissors
- Press the dull underside of the ribbon firmly against the blade of the scissors with your thumb. Make sure that the ribbon is still facing dull side down.
- Pull the ribbon across the scissors blade while continuing to press with your thumb. You need to make sure that you do this quickly. The pressure will cause the ribbon to curl.[5]
- you must do this part quickly because if you do it too slow the ribbon won't curl. In some cases, it will get flatter.
- Release the ribbon from the scissors blade. The curling ribbon should spiral up. If it doesn't or isn't as curly as you want it to be, then you can try the procedure again. If it doesn't work a second time, then you'll need to get a new length of ribbon and try again.
[Edit]Curling Fabric Ribbon With Starch Solution - Gather your materials. Although you need more materials than you would if you used a simple curling ribbon, this procedure doesn't take that long to accomplish. Fabric ribbons that you've taken the time to curl can add something a little extra to a nice package.[6]
- Find a dowel stick (pencil or rod works, too) which you'll use to curl the ribbon around. A bigger diameter creates a bigger curl, while a smaller diameter creates a smaller curl.
- Get a length of fabric ribbon. The width doesn't particularly matter, it just depends on what you want in terms of width. Make it a few inches (or centimeters) longer than the final desired length because curling will make it smaller.
- Mix cornstarch and water in a spray bottle.
- Grab a couple of clothespins or clips or use tape.
- Mix one tablespoon of cornstarch powder with one-pint water. You'll slosh the mixture around in the spray bottle until you've made sure that the cornstarch has completely dissolved.[7]
- Clip fabric ribbon to one end of your dowel. You'll do this with the clothespin or the clip, or you can tape it. Make sure that the ribbon is secured, because if it comes undone during the drying period, it won't curl very well.
- Wind ribbon around dowel. When you're doing this you want to make it as tight or as loose as you want your curls to be. Again, depending on the diameter of the dowel stick (or whatever rod you're using) the curls will be bigger or smaller. Don't overlap the ribbon as you're winding it or those parts won't get the starch spray.
- Tape or clip the end of the ribbon in place, so that it is secured on both sides.
- Spray ribbon with cornstarch solution. Don't drown the ribbon in the solution, but make sure that the entire ribbon is completely coated. Any parts that aren't coated completely won't be stiff enough to maintain their shape.
- Allow your ribbons to dry. They have to be completely dry before you remove them from the dowel, because otherwise, they may lose their shape. This can take a while so it's a good idea to curl your ribbons with plenty of time to spare before you need to use them.
- Remove clothespins and slide the ribbon off the dowel. Your ribbon should be stiff and curling. You can somewhat manipulate the shape if you need to attach it to a package, but don't let it get wet, because that will make it lose its curls.
[Edit]Curling Fabric Ribbon by Baking Them - Gather supplies. Unlike curling fabric ribbons with a starch solution, you'll need a few more supplies and a little more time, because it can take a little bit of time to bake the ribbons into curls than to simply allow them to dry. This method, however, tends to leave them less stiff than the cornstarch method.[8]
- Get your fabric ribbon. When it curls it is smaller than what you started with so always cut off a bit more than you think you need.
- Grab some wooden dowels or skewers to wind the ribbons around.
- Get clothespins to hold the ribbons in place.
- Use a spray bottle with water to spray everything before baking it.
- Line a cookie sheet with tinfoil on which to bake your ribbons.
- Wind your ribbons around the skewers and secure them. You want to make sure that the ribbons are tight enough that they won't slip off or lose their shape when you bake them. Avoid overlapping them so that the water gets every part of the ribbon.
- Secure ribbons on both ends of skewers with clothespins.
- Spray the ribbons with water. You don't have the soak the ribbons, but give them a good spray and make sure that you're getting all parts of the ribbon. This will make it so they don't burn while in the oven.
- Spray the clothespins as well, so they don't burn when they're in the oven either.
- Bake ribbons for about 10 minutes at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the ribbons on the tinfoil lined cookie sheet. The timing depends on your oven, so if it needs to go a little longer that's okay.
- That would be about 93 degrees Celsius.
- Remove from oven when the ribbon is completely dry. Keep checking while it's baking so that you don't over or under-bake the ribbon or ribbons. When the ribbons are completely dry, that's when you take it out of the oven.
- Check underneath to make sure that it is completely dry on all sides.
- Take ribbon off dowel when it is cool. Your ribbon should be well curled It should retain this shape unless it gets wet. You can use it to decorate a hair clip, or add it to a lovely package for that little extra touch!
- Pressing harder on one edge of the ribbon as you pull it across the scissors will curl it more tightly.
- It helps to pay close attention when having your gifts wrapped professionally at gift-wrapping counters; watch the method used by the wrappers to curl the ribbon as they're adept at it. You might even ask them to show you how to do it.
- If the ribbon didn't curl properly the first time, repeat the procedure, making sure to use the scissors blade on the same side to strengthen the curl.
- Curl multiple pieces of curling ribbon and attach with a piece of wire in the middle; affix to any gift package.
[Edit]Warnings - Use care with the scissors when cutting or when pressing your thumb against the blade to curl the ribbon.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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