| How to Make a Bee Trap Posted: 22 Jun 2020 05:00 PM PDT Bees and wasps are an important part of nature, but when these little critters are attracted to the sweet and savory foods in your home they can be a pest. If a colony has nested near your home, call a local bee removal company, but in the meantime, homemade bee traps made of 2-liter bottles will help manage bees and wasps that find their way into your home.[1] Carpenter bees, which bore holes into the wood of homes, will require a wooden trap with an attached mason jar base. [Edit]Using a 2-liter Soda Bottle - Cut away the top third of a clean 2-liter soda bottle. Remove the cap. Use a utility knife to cut off the top of the bottle slightly below where the neck straightens. To cut an even line, wrap a piece of masking tape around the bottle to mark where you'll cut.[2]
- Invert the bottle top to nest it in the bottle bottom. Hold the bottle top so the capless end is facing downward. Insert this into the bottle bottom. Hold the bottle top in place at the top of the bottle bottom with your fingers. Staple the top to the bottom on four opposing sides.
- If you don't have a stapler, tape the seam between the inverted bottle top and the bottle bottom instead.[3]
- If you want to reuse your traps, fasten the bottle top and bottom with clothespins. You only need to unfasten the clothespins to clean, empty, and refill your 2-liter bottle trap.[4]
- Drill holes and add cord to make a hanging trap. Drill two holes an inch (2.5 cm) below the top of the trap, with each hole on opposite sides of the bottle. Use a drill bit large enough to allow your cord to pass through. Feed one end apiece of a length of cord into the two holes holes. Knot the ends of the cord and it's ready to hang.[5]
- Use honey or sugar water as bait. Pour honey or sugar water directly into the bottom of the trap. You don't need much; a thin layer will be enough to attract bees. Bees will be attracted to the sweetness and won't be able to escape, eventually dying in the trap.[6]
- Save the lives of bees by only using honey or sugar water. When you see a bee trapped inside, take it away from your home and carefully release it.[7]
- Poison bees with laundry soap. To ensure bees that enter your trap don't make it out alive, add a tablespoon (15 ml) of liquid laundry soap to your bait. Distribute the soap throughout the bait by stirring it with a utensil. The soap will poison and kill all bees that ingest it.[8]
- Position your traps near bee access points. Placing your traps too close to bee access points may actually draw more indoors. Prioritize locations in the sun. Sunlight will make the bait more effective and also cause bees to die in the trap faster.
- Hanging traps tend to attract bees better than ground traps. Ground traps, however, can be effective guarding window access points.[9]
- Check traps every two weeks. If you've fastened your bottle top and bottom with staples, you'll either need to remove the staples to clean and refill the trap or make a new one. Otherwise, remove the tape or clothespins, dump the contents of the trap, rinse it, and refill it with honey or sugar water.
- These traps will attract many kinds of insects, including ants. Use natural methods to prevent and remove ants.[10]
[Edit]Building a Mason Jar Carpenter Bee Trap - Mark a 45° angle on the 4x4 post. Lay your post flat on its long side. Use your square to draw a 45° angle from one corner of the post until the line ends at the opposite side edge. The angle, when cut, will form two edges about 7 in (17.8 cm) long and two that are about 4 in (10.2 cm) long.[11]
- Cut the post along the marked angle. Position your post somewhere it will be safe to cut with a saw. For example, you might clamp the unmarked edge to a workbench or scrap wood so you can cut the marked edge more easily. Cut the post along the marked angle with your circular saw.[12]
- Use caution when operating a saw. Improper usage can result in serious injury. Always wear safety glasses and a face mask.
- Substitute a hand saw for a circular saw. However, cutting with a hand saw will take longer and require more effort.
- Cut the opposite side of the post to finish incomplete cuts, if necessary. The blade of some saws might not extend all the way through the post. In this situation, turn the post over and mark the same angle on the opposite side. Cut the angle on the opposite side to finish the incomplete cut.
- Drill a hole in the flat bottom of the post.[13] Orient the flat bottom of your post, which is opposite the angled top, upwards. Use a tape measure and a pencil to mark the center of the flat bottom of the post. Use a 7/8-inch bit to drill a 4-inch (10.2 cm) deep hole at this center mark.[14]
- Drill the hole on a straight up and down angle with respect to the flat bottom of the carpenter bee trap.
- If you're a poor estimator of distance, measure the length of your drill bit and note the point it is about 4 in (10.2 cm) long. Drill to this point.[15]
- Mark entry holes on the four sides of the post. Each of the four sides will need a hole to make your trap most efficient. Use a tape measure and pencil to mark one hole on each side. Each hole should be 2 in (5 cm) from the bottom edge and ¾ in (1.9 cm) from side edges.[16]
- Drill side entry holes upward on a 45° angle.[17] Hold your square beside the hole to help you judge the angle. 45° is halfway between horizontal (flat) and vertical (up and down). Position your drill parallel to this angle and drill upward until the hole connects with the hole drilled in the bottom.[18]
- Drill holes in this fashion at each of the marked points on the four sides of your post. All holes should connect with the straight hole drilled in the center of the post's flat bottom.
- The angle for your side entry holes doesn't have to be perfect. For quick, easy, and accurate angled holes, use a pocket jig as a guide. Pocket jigs can be bought at hardware stores.[19]
[Edit]Attaching the Mason Jar Base - Mark the lid of your mason jar with a permanent marker. Remove the flat part of the mason jar from the circular threaded part that fastens it. Measure and mark the center point of the lid. Divide the distance between the middle point and the outer edge in half on both sides. Mark these two points as well.[20]
- The resulting three marks should form a straight line. The first mark will be the center of the lid, and the other two will be halfway between the center mark and the lid's outer edge.
- Punch holes into your lid. Position your punch on top of one of the marks. Swing a hammer with firm, moderate force and hit the end of the punch to drive its tip through the metal at your mark. Repeat this for the two remaining marks.
- Place the lid on a piece of scrap wood or heavy metal to prevent the punch from damaging your work surface.[21]
- Drill a hole in the center of the mason jar lid. Turn the lid over so the punched side is facing downwards. Drill a hole at the center punch with a ½-in metal drill bit. This will create metal shavings, which can be sharp. Dispose metal shavings in the garbage.[22]
- Drilling your center hole may have created metal burrs. Prevent cuts from these by removing them with a file.
- Attach the assembled jar lid onto the bottom of the post. Fit the lid into its circular, threaded part. Align the hole in the center of the lid with the hole in the flat bottom of the post. Attach the lid by fastening it to the post with a screw in each of the two remaining punched lid holes.[23]
- Add an eye screw on top and hang your trap. Measure and mark the center point of the angled top of your carpenter bee trap. Drill a screw hole here for your eye hook. Insert the eye hook, screw the glass jar into the attached lid mount, and hang it to trap and kill carpenter bees.[24]
- Hang traps close to active bee holes. Carpenter bees will be attracted to the holes in your trap and crawl inside it to lay eggs. However, the 45° angle of the entry tunnels will confuse the bees, drawing them into the glass jar where they can't escape.
- Close up carpenter bee holes while they're away with caulk, wooden dowels, or specialized carpenter bee killing foam.
- Closed nesting holes will force carpenter bees to look for the most convenient new home, like your carpenter bee trap.[25]
[Edit]Warnings - Bee allergies can be quite serious. If you are allergic, keep medicine, like an EpiPen, close at hand in case of stings.
- Although generally passive, bee swarms can be very dangerous when agitated. When working near or installing traps close to nesting locations, wait until night when bees aren't active. Avoid using flashlights or lanterns; light will attract bees.
- Improper usage of tools could result in serious or permanent injury, especially for power tools like a circular saw.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]2-liter Soda Bottle Trap - 2-liter soda bottle (clean)
- Cordage (like paracord or nylon rope)
- Dish soap (optional)
- Drill (with drill bits)
- Honey (or sugar water)
- Masking tape (optional)
- Stapler (or clothespins)
- Utility knife
[Edit]Carpenter Bee Trap - ½″ metal bit
- ½″ wood bit
- 7" (17.8 cm) long 4×4 post
- 7/8″ wood bit
- Circular saw (or a hand saw)
- Clamp (optional)
- Drill
- Eye hook
- File (optional)
- Hammer
- Mason jar (half pint or regular pint)
- Pencil
- Punch
- Screw driver
- Square
- Tape measure
- Wood screws
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Harvest Rhubarb Posted: 22 Jun 2020 09:00 AM PDT One of the few perennial vegetables, rhubarb grows back year after year if cared for properly. The beautiful veggie, whose color can range from pale pink to deep maroon, is full of flavor and sweetness, similar to a fruit. Harvest it during the spring and summer months to use in pies, baked goods, chutneys, and more. [Edit]Harvesting at the Right Time - Wait at least 1 year before picking stalks from a rhubarb plant. It is important not to pull any stalks in the plant's first year of growth. It will weaken the young rhubarb plant. Allow each rhubarb plant to establish a strong root system the first year and leave the stalks intact. Start harvesting during the plant's second season.[1]
- If the plant looks very healthy, you can harvest 1 to 2 stalks during its first year. But this is an exception.
- A rhubarb plant can produce stalks for up to 20 years.
- Expect to get about of stalks from a mature plant each season.
- Harvest rhubarb from late spring through the middle of summer. Prime rhubarb season is April to June. A good rule of thumb is to pick your rhubarb no later than July 4. The harvesting period typically lasts about 8 to 10 weeks.[2]
- Rhubarb plants are dormant during the fall and winter.
- If you try to harvest your rhubarb too late, the stalks might get frost damage and be inedible.
- Check for stalks that are between wide. A ripe stalk should be about the width of your finger. Leave thinner stalks on the plant to continue growing.[3]
- Stalks that are too thick will be chewy and tough.
- Don't harvest from a plant whose stalks are very thin. That's a sign the plant is underfed and weak.[4]
- Make sure the stalks are at least long. The longer the stalk, the more flavorful it will be. And while is the minimum length before harvesting, stalks that are between long are the most delicious.[5]
- This measurement should only include the stalk itself, not the leaves.
- Run your hand along the length of the stalk. If it's crisp and firm, it's ready to pick.
- Avoid judging a rhubarb plant's ripeness by its color. Contrary to popular belief, how red or vibrant the stalks are does not determine how ripe the plant is. Not all rhubarb is a deep red hue. Some varieties of rhubarb are paler shades of red or even green when they're ready to be picked.[6]
- Turkish and Riverside Giant are 2 common green varieties of rhubarb.
[Edit]Picking Rhubarb - Twist and pull the stalks as close as possible to the base of the plant. Rhubarb stalks should always be twisted clean from the crown, as twisting or pulling invigorates the roots to produce more. Pull gently, while twisting the stalk to ensure it comes away neatly.[7]
- If a stalk is difficult to remove, use a gardening shovel or shears to carefully cut it at the base.
- Make sure not to cut or damage the central bulb of the plant which can stunt its growth.
- Collect only a third of the stalks per plant each season. This avoids over-stressing the rhubarb plant. Always keep at least 2 stalks on a plant to encourage it to produce again in the next season.[8]
- For example, if it's the plant's second season and there are 7 stalks, pick 2 stalks, leaving about 5 healthy stalks to continue growing.
- In a plant's third season and later, you can remove 3 to 4 stalks per plant, since there will be more stalks on the plant.
- Pull or cut the leaves from the stalk and discard them. The leaves contain oxalic acid, which is poisonous and should not be eaten. Remove the leaves with your fingers or use a knife or kitchen scissors to carefully cut them off the stalk. Then throw them away or add them to the compost.[9]
- Leaving the leaves attached dries out the stalks and causes them to wilt faster.
- Make a rhubarb spray from the leaves to keep the pests off plants in your garden like broccoli, cabbage and Brussels sprouts.
- Do not feed the leaves to animals either!
- Tidy the plant by removing broken or flowering stalks from the base. Never leave any broken stalks on the rhubarb plant as these can cause infections to grow. Either eat the pieces or discard them.
- Remove any flowering stalks, too. This allows the plant to focus on growing healthier stalks instead of flowers.[10]
- Trim off leaves that are wilted or eaten by insects so they don't affect the rest of the plant.
[Edit]Storing Your Rhubarb - Wrap the rhubarb stalks loosely in aluminum foil. Lay the rhubarb along a sheet of aluminum foil and fold the edges over the stalks. Don't seal the edges completely. Leave a small space for air to get in and out.[11]
- Tightly wrapping the stalks traps in moisture and ethylene (a hormone that ripens vegetables) so your rhubarb will go bad faster.[12]
- Don't wash the rhubarb until you're ready to eat it.
- Place the wrapped rhubarb in the fridge for 2 to 4 weeks. The best spot in the fridge for your rhubarb is the vegetable crisper drawer because it has the highest humidity. It won't dry out the stalks. After 1 month or if you notice moldy spots, toss any uneaten rhubarb.[13]
- Freeze the rhubarb for up to 1 year if you aren't using it right away. To freeze the rhubarb properly, first rinse it and pat it dry with a paper towel. Then chop the rhubarb into small pieces and put them in an airtight container or resealable freezer bag. Place the container in the freezer to use within 1 year.[14]
- If you're using a freezer bag, remove any excess air before sealing it shut.
- Label your container or bag with the date and the contents using a permanent marker.
- Frozen rhubarb is great for smoothies or baking.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Put a Nail in a Concrete Wall Posted: 22 Jun 2020 01:00 AM PDT The toughness and durability of concrete makes it a popular building material for walls. Concrete walls can also add a modern, industrial aesthetic to a room. However, their strength and durability can make it difficult to drive nails into them. Fortunately, there are specialized tools and materials you can use to make the job easier. To minimize the risk of cracking the concrete, you'll want to use a hammer-set anchor nail. You could also drive masonry nails into the wall for an easy and convenient option. [Edit]Using an Anchor Nail - Choose hammer-set anchor nails for concrete walls. Hammer-set anchor nails are what's known as mechanical drive anchors. They consist of a wider section at the bottom that's designed to expand and a thinner top section that looks like a standard nail. They're tough enough to be hammered into concrete, but you first need to drill a guide hole into the wall. Look for hammer-set anchor nails at your local hardware or home improvement store.[1]
- You can also order hammer-set anchor nails online.
- Put on a pair of safety glasses and a face mask. Drilling into concrete creates dust that can irritate your eyes if it gets into them and your sinuses if you breathe it in. Before you begin working, put on a pair of well-fitting safety glasses and cover you nose and mouth with a facemask.[2]
- You could also tie a scarf or bandana around your mouth and nose to avoid breathing in the concrete dust.
- You can find safety glasses and face masks at hardware stores, department stores, and by ordering them online.
- Fit a carbide-tipped masonry bit into a hammer drill. A hammer drill, also known as a percussion or impact drill, is a specialized power tool that's used to drill into hard surfaces, such as concrete. Insert a carbide-tipped masonry bit into the end of your drill and tighten it so it's held securely in the jaws.[3]
- Look for hammer drills and carbide-tipped masonry bits at your local home improvement or hardware store. You can also order them online.
- Carbide-tipped masonry bits are strong enough to drill into concrete without cracking.
- Hold the drill against the wall with both hands. Take a wide stance and plant your feet firmly on the ground so you're strong and stable. Press the drill bit against the wall where you want to put your nail, hold the drill with both hands, and apply pressure using your body weight so the drill won't slip or move out of place when you use it.[4]
- Drill a hole into the wall deep enough to fit your hammer-set anchor. With your drill pressed against the wall, start drilling slowly and bring it up to full speed to create a pilot hole in the wall. Make the hole as deep as the wider bottom section of your hammer-set anchor.[5]
- If concrete dust builds up in the hole as you're drilling, remove the drill and blow out the dust before you continue.
- Drive the anchor nail into the hole you drilled with a hammer. Hold the wider bottom section of the hammer-set anchor nail against the hole you drilled and start tapping it into place with a standard hammer. As you drive the anchor into the concrete, the bottom section will expand and hold the nail in place. Continue hammering until the wide section is completely in the wall.[6]
[Edit]Driving Masonry Nails into Concrete - Mark the wall where you want to put a nail with a pencil. Pinpoint the exact spot where you want to put your nail by using a pencil or marker to make a small point on the wall. If you plan to install multiple nails into your wall to hang or install something, check to make sure they're measured evenly with a ruler or tape measure.[7]
- Hold a masonry nail against the concrete wall with your fingers. A masonry nail, also known as a concrete nail, is made of tough steel and designed with fluted shafts that help them drive into concrete without breaking. Place the tip of the masonry nail against the marking you made and hold it steady with your fingers.[8]
- Look for masonry nails at hardware stores, home improvement stores, department stores, or by ordering them online.
- Tap the nail with a mash hammer to hold it in place. A mash hammer, also known as a masonry hammer, as a double-sided hammer that's much heavier than standard hammers, making it the best choice to drive nails into concrete. With your nail held in place against the wall, tap the end of it with your hammer to drive the nail just enough so it's held in place in the wall and you don't need to hold it with your fingers.[9]
- A standard hammer won't be heavy or solid enough to drive the nail into the concrete wall.
- Look for mash hammers at hardware stores and home improvement stores, or by ordering one online.
- Drive the masonry nail into the concrete wall with the hammer. Use carefully aimed hammer strikes to drive the nail into the concrete wall so you don't miss and bend the nail or strike the wall and damage it. Continue striking the hammer until the nail is driven in to where you want it.[10]
- If you're fastening something to the concrete wall, drive the nail all the way in. of the nail sticking out if you plan to hang something from it.}}
[Edit]Warnings - Always wear safety glasses and cover your nose and mouth with a face mask whenever you drill into concrete.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using an Anchor Nail - Safety glasses
- Face mask
- Hammer drill
- Carbide-tipped masonry drill bit
- Hammer-set anchor nails
- Hammer.
[Edit]Driving Masonry Nails into Concrete - Pencil
- Masonry nails
- mash hammer
[Edit]References |
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