| How to Fly Fish Posted: 18 Jun 2020 05:00 PM PDT Fly fishing is an outdoor sport enjoyed by many anglers around the world. Fly fishing is much more complicated than fishing with a standard spin rod, but the solitude you'll find while fly fishing (and the meditative casting ritual) is unmatched. Wading into an icy river and replicating the movements of a fish's prey on the water are a wilderness experience you won't get from casting with worms off a pier. Fly fishing can be difficult, and it takes a lot of practice to learn how to properly cast. With a little practice, though, you'll be pulling in monster trout in no time. [Edit]Learning the Basics of Fly Fishing - Find out the fishing license requirements in your region. Before you set out for any kind of fishing trip, you'll need a valid license issued by your state. Every state's requirements are different, and some wilderness areas have either more lax restrictions or even greater restrictions/prohibitions on fishing. Getting caught without a license or fishing in a body of water that doesn't allow fishing can land you in trouble with the law, so it's best to comply with your state's requirements and know the rules wherever you intend to fish.[1]
- Search online to see what your state requires. You can also find helpful courses on e-learning sites like Udemy.
- You can also find information online on where and how to acquire a fishing license.
- Some locations may allow you to acquire a fishing license online, while others require you to visit a retail or licensing facility in person.
- Borrow or purchase quality fishing gear. You'll need some specialized equipment in order to fly fish. If you're working within a budget or aren't sure yet that you'll want to stick with fly fishing, it's best to borrow gear or purchase low-cost equipment. The basics you will need at any price point include[2]:
- a fly rod (for most freshwater streams, lakes, and ponds, a six to eight-foot rod is sufficient)[3]
- a spool
- flies
- pliers
- a hemostat (special clamps/forceps used to remove hooks from a trout's mouth)
- a sharp pocket knife
- a rod and reel case
- a fly box to transport your gear
- a landing net
- a hat to block out the sun (anything with a brim will suffice)
- sunglasses with polarized lenses (so you can see through the glare in the water)
- waders
- wading boots (for better grip on the slippery riverbed)
- non-slip feet attachments (like sole spikes)
- a fly fishing vest with pockets for your tools and flies
- Choose effective flies. There are many different types of flies, each one designed to mimic a different aquatic invertebrate. You can purchase pre-made flies at most fishing supply stores, or try making your own. Some of the most common types of flies are designed to look like the following aquatic invertebrates/insects[4]:
- mayfly hatch
- Caddisfly hatch
- stonefly hatch
- terrestrial hatch (designed to look like and imitate a terrestrial insect)
- midges
- scuds
- leeches
- dragonfly/damselfly
- Learn to tie your own dry fly. If you've been fly fishing for a while or simply like working with your hands, you may prefer to make your own fly. Be aware, however, that it can be very time-consuming. You'll need various types of feathers and fur, good eyesight (or a lighted magnifying glass to see better), and skilled hands.[5]
 - Pass the line just before the eye of the hook and wrap it around the shank of the hook to the midpoint.
- Place your fly materials on the shank of the hook and pinch them in place.
- Wrap the line around the fly materials until they're firmly in place, then wrap back over the spot you just wrapped. This will help secure the hackles (or whatever materials you're using) in place.
- If you add any additional materials, make sure they're approximately even/level with the materials already wrapped to your hook.
- You can split hackles or other materials by separating them a tiny bit (just a half-inch or so at the tips) and wrapping some of the line between them.
- Apply some wax to the line just before the hook/fly.
- Pinch and twist a tiny amount of dubbing fur to the wax. Keep twisting and wrapping it in one direction up and down the waxed portion of line until the fur is tightly around that section of the line.
- Wrap the waxed and fur-wrapped section of line around the hook shank towards the tail, then turn and wrap back over the shank.
- Tie off the line, cut off any excess thread, and use a drop of liquid cement to secure the whole fly in place.
- Tie fly knots more effectively. Whether you're tying your own homemade fly or tying on a store-bought fly, it's important to know how to attach a fly to your line so that it will stay on. Don't tighten any knots until your fly is in position, and make sure you know how to properly secure a fly on your line before you cast into a river.[6]
- Always wet your knot with saliva or river water before tightening it. This allows you to slide the knot around on the line and get it into place.
- Keep your knots tight once they're in position. Use a continuous and steady pull on the line, and check that your fly is secure before casting.
- Trim any excess line off the end past the knot. Try to cut as close to the knot as possible without actually hitting the knot itself.
[Edit]Finding the Right Time and Place to Fish - Choose a good fly fishing location. Fishing is partly a game of chance, but where you choose to fish can make a big difference in the outcome of your expedition. It's best to choose a quiet, secluded place far from other people (including other fishers). You'll also have to read the water to find the best places to cast, as fish tend to gravitate towards certain underwater environments.[7]
 - Look for boulders and submerged trees/debris. Fish tend to use these underwater areas for shelter/protection, as well as for feeding.
- Scan the water for any areas just downstream of rocks and trees. Fish commonly position themselves just past these refuge areas knowing that smaller fish and aquatic invertebrates will travel downstream.
- In the early morning hours you might be able to find fish in unusually shallow water as they search for food. Stand on the bank and scan the shallows for signs of fish.
- Try casting in undercut banks. If the water has worn out a channel under the bank of the river and created a hollowed-out space, it's a good bet that fish congregate there.
- Look for pools where the stream/river widens to a gut. The head of the pool (where the pool first widens) is usually a good fishing spot, as well as the slower current just downstream of the head.
- Avoid casting in the downstream end of a pool (called the tailout). That area tends to be more shallow and near rapids/riffles downstream, so most fish tend to avoid these areas.
- Fish at the right time of day. Almost as important as where you fish is when you fish. Fish tend to feed in the morning around sunrise, and again in the evening around sunset. However, if you're new to fishing, it may be easiest to learn how to fish in the midday sun.[8]
- If you're just starting to learn how to fly fish, you may not know how to spot a fish on the bed or a river.
- You'll be able to see a fish's shadows most clearly during midday due to the position of the sun and the reduction of glare on the water.
- If you're just starting out, it may be best to practice spotting fish and casting during the midday sun. You can always stick around until fish become more active, or come back at a later time.
- Be quiet and cautious as you approach/enter the stream. Fish are incredibly sensitive to their environment. Any kind of noise can disturb fish, though other factors may also tip them off to your whereabouts.[9]
- Fish can detect disturbances in the water. Some may even be able to detect disturbances along the shore.
- Never stomp your feet or make a lot of noise on the banks.
- Stay in the shade so you don't cast a shadow, or try crouching/squatting as you approach the water.
- If you intend to wade into the water, move very, very slowly. Walking in too rapidly will create ripples and send the sound through the water column.
[Edit]Casting and Reeling In a Fish - Use a two-stroke cast if you've got the room. If you're on a clear bank with no low-hanging trees, you should be able to use a two-stroke cast. This is a basic casting method, but it requires some clearance above and behind you. Make sure you have enough room before attempting this cast, as a low tree branch can easily snag your line and cost you your fly.[10]
- Lead out approximately three rod-lengths' worth of fishing line.
- Hold the rod with your dominant hand.
- Check the line for tangles. If there are any tangles present, you'll need to straighten them out before casting.
- With your arm slightly extended, whip the tip of the rod up and back in a steady movement.
- Don't whip the rod too far back; you'll want to stop when the tip of the rod is pointing up and just slightly behind you.
- Watch as the line unfurls. The three rod-lengths' worth of line should be extended.
- Immediately before the line completely straightens out above/behind you, flick the rod forward to send the line out onto the surface of the water.
- Try a roll cast if there's no room behind you. If there's not enough room above or behind you, you may want to try a roll cast. This is somewhat similar in action to the two-stroke cast, but it doesn't require as much room or as much loose line.[11]
- Hold the rod in your dominant hand slightly in front of you.
- Check the line for tangles. Straighten out any tangles present before you attempt to cast.
- Gently bring the rod back. The tip should be above your casting shoulder, and a small piece of line should be hanging behind you.
- Move the rod forward. Start slow, then speed it up as your arm comes down.
- Don't whip the rod too far ahead. Stop when the tip of the rod is still angled slightly upward.
- The loop of line should unfurl and cast onto the surface of the water.
- Make your fly attractive along the water's surface. Fish should see your fly as a real insect/invertebrate. How you manage the line will determine how convincing your fly is to a fish.[12]
- There are two primary ways to imitate an actual insect: letting it drift without any movement on your part, or giving the line very slight, gentle twitches to imitate natural movement.
- Move your rod to the right or left to change the angle at which the line lays on the water.
- If you are upstream from a fish, keep the rod (and your rod arm) angled upstream. As the fly moves downstream with the current, slowly angle your rod and arm to face downstream at the same speed the fly is moving at to create a drag-free line.
- If a fish is feeding near the surface, try to cast your fly so that it lands near the fish's head and floats towards it.
- Hook a fish. Once you've gotten a bite (which you should be able to feel if the line is taut), you'll need to hook the fish. If you don't hook the fish, or if you don't hook it properly, it can easily get away off your line.[13]
- Keep the rod's tip low to the water. That way when a fish strikes, you can move the rod's tip in the direction of line curvature.
- Keep the line as taut as possible. If you try to set the hook while there's excess slack in the line it will not move the hook whatsoever.
- Set the hook securely in the fish's mouth. You'll do this by continuing to hold the rod with one hand and pulling down sharply on the line with the other hand.
- Do not yank the rod tip upwards. Some fishers do this thinking it helps set the hook, but really it just complicates the process of reeling in your fish.
- If the fish tries to bolt upstream, keep the rod tip close to the water and pointed in the direction of the line, not the fish.
- Continue to strip away line until the fish tires itself out.
- Palm the reel if you're pulling in a big fish. This simply means applying pressure with your palm to the reel to prevent the spool from running out.[14]
- Net your fish once it's tired and in shallow water. After you've hooked your fish, it will begin to fight. It may try to swim upstream or downstream, or it may just jerk the line around trying to get free. The key is to let the fish tire itself out (while moving your rod accordingly), then reel it in.[15]
- Do not lift your rod up. This could put too much pressure on the rod, causing it to break.
- Try to keep the fish in the water as much as possible, especially if you plan on releasing it.
- If you're working with a larger fish, it may be easier to "beach" the fish by leading it onto a bank where the water is shallowest.
- Move the net into position and gently pull the line to guide the fish head-first over the net's rim.
- Once the fish's body is past the rim of the net, flick the rim up (to ensure the fish doesn't jump out quickly) while simultaneously lifting the net out of the water. This should prevent escape and send the fish to the bottom of your net.
- Carefully unhook your fly from the fish's mouth. Remember that it will most likely be thrashing and flailing, so be careful not to cut yourself or hurt the fish.
- Decide whether to keep the fish or release it. Once you've netted your fish, you'll need to decide whether your fish is big enough to keep. If it's too small, you'll need to release it. Before you do anything, though, you should know the restrictions and requirements in the region where you're fishing.
- Different regions have differing requirements on the minimum size of a fish. Those requirements may change within a single state if you're fishing in a wilderness area.
- Some bodies of water (especially those in wilderness areas) may be catch-and-release only. In this case, you must unhook the fish and set it loose in the water.
- Always check the laws and guidelines in any region you intend to fish. You can find these requirements by searching online, or by asking a park ranger (or the equivalent).
- Try to find an enjoyable place to fish. Half the fun for many anglers is getting outdoors and spending time in a wilderness area. Just be sure to always take safety precautions.
[Edit]Warnings - Always use caution if you wade into a body of water. Rocks are often slippery and the riverbed is usually littered with unseen debris, meaning you could easily trip or slip and fall in the water. If you plan to wade, it's best to wear a lifejacket in case you do end up falling in.
- Find out the licensing requirements and any restrictions in place before you go fishing. Most wilderness areas are regularly patrolled by backcountry rangers who will write you a ticket if you don't have the necessary license or are fishing in restricted waters.
[Edit]References
[Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Fix Wavy Book Pages Posted: 18 Jun 2020 09:00 AM PDT Wet book pages have a tendency to dry into wavy, folded patterns that can make them hard to read. If you accidentally got your favorite book wet or left it in a humid area, you don't have to go out and buy a new one! Instead, you can spend a few days making sure your book is really dry and then flattening it out to restore its pages and make your book readable again. [Edit]Drying Wet Pages - Put your book in the freezer if you don't have time to repair it now. If you need to wait a few days before starting to dry out your book, seal it in a plastic bag and place it in the freezer. This will stop any mold from growing and damaging your book pages further.[1]
- Make sure the plastic bag is airtight so that your book doesn't pick up any additional moisture from the freezer.
- Blot the pages with a paper towel to make sure they are dry. Grab some paper towels and insert them between the pages of your book every 10 to 20 pages. Press down on the book to soak up any residual moisture that might be left in the pages.[2]
- Drying the book beforehand will make sure the pages don't stick together.
- If your book has any mold on the pages, gently brush off any topical mold spores with a clean cloth and then set your book in the sun to dry out.
- Open up your book and stand it on its side. Carefully open your book pages up until your book is open at a 45-degree angle. Stand it up on a towel so that the pages stay fanned out. Use caution, as your book might be fragile.[3]
- Wet or water damaged books are prone to falling apart, so it's important to be careful when you handle them.
- Point a fan at the pages to dry it out overnight. Put the fan on low so that it doesn't ruffle the pages of your book too much. Leave your book with a fan pointed at it for 8 to 12 hours to ensure that it dries out all the way.[4]
- You can also set up a dehumidifier to dry out the pages even more, if you have one.
- Sandwich your book in between 2 boards. You can use whatever scrap wood you have on hand as long as it covers the book completely. Lay the book on its side with one board underneath it and one on top.[5]
- Plywood is a great wood to use for sandwiching your book, since it's pretty thin.
- Place heavy items, like bricks, on top of the top board. Make sure they are centered on the top board so your book is getting even pressure. You can also use cinder blocks if you don't have any bricks.[6]
- Point a fan or dehumidifier at your book to dry it out. As your book is being pressed, you can dry it out even more by circulating the air around it. Make sure you turn off any humidifiers in your home and close the windows so that your book stays cool and dry. Turn on a fan or a dehumidifier and place it in front of your book as it dries.[7]
- Try to keep your book out of the direct sunlight so that it doesn't get too hot.
- Leave your book for 1 to 2 days. Try not to disturb your book as it flattens out. Keep the heavy objects on top of the book for as long as you can.[8]
- If your book is still wavy, you can try leaving it pressed for longer.
- Keep your book pressed flat when you store it. If you can, try to put your book in between 2 book ends or a few other books so that it is being continually pressed flat. This will help flatten out the pages more and make sure your book pages stay in their new shape.[9]
[Edit]Flattening Pages with Heat - Spray a fine mist of water over the pages of your book. If your book has already been dry for a while, use a water bottle to get it slightly damp again. Make sure all of the pages are damp, but don't soak your book in water.[10]
- If you don't have a spray bottle, use a clean paint brush to dab water onto the book pages instead.
- Set your iron to the "no steam" setting. This will ensure that your iron doesn't add any more moisture to the book. Let your iron heat up for about 5 minutes before you start using it.[11]
- If you have an ironing board, you can set that up as well. Otherwise, you can make a small workstation on your table or counter top.
- Place a tissue over 1 page of the book. The tissue will help to protect the book page from any heat damage. If you don't have any tissues, you can also use a sheet of plain white paper.[12]
- Swipe your iron quickly over the tissue. Gently press your iron onto the tissue over your book and move it in a circular motion. Leave your iron on the tissue for about 3 seconds, then quickly pick it back up.[13]
- Don't leave your iron on top of the book pages for too long, or you could burn your book.
- Iron each page individually to flatten it out. Although it may take a while, this is the best way to flatten out each and every page of your book. Try to do each page at a time, because the iron won't be hot enough to flatten out 2 pages at once.[14]
- The sooner you start drying and pressing your book, the better it will look.
- Your book may never look how it did originally, but you can restore it partly.
[Edit]Warnings - If your damaged book is old or expensive, take it to a professional book repair shop.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Fixing a Wet Book - Paper towels
- Towel
- Fan
- 2 wooden boards
- Bricks or cinder blocks
- Dehumidifier
[Edit]Flattening Dry Pages with Heat - Spray bottle
- Iron
- Tissues
[Edit]References |
| How to Determine Fertility Posted: 18 Jun 2020 01:00 AM PDT Fertility, or the ability to become pregnant, is very important for all sexually active adults to consider, whether you're trying to start a family or looking for ways to practice safe sex. Although it's easy to chart, tracking, determining, and improving your chances at fertility requires a lot of patience. While it's always best to bring any serious fertility concerns to a medical professional, there are plenty of methods and procedures you can use as you plan for the next big step in your adult life. [Edit]Choosing the Best Time to Conceive - Take an at-home ovulation test for a quick way to find out when you ovulate. Pick up an ovulation test online or at your local drugstore. Around 3-5 days before you expect to start ovulating, pee on one of the sticks in the fertility kit, then wait a few seconds to see if the right hormones are "surging." Use the other sticks in the kit to test your hormone levels multiple days in a row. Once your hormone levels increase dramatically, you can probably assume that you'll ovulate in a day or so.[1]
- Read the instructions that come with your kit for more specific guidance.
- Track your menstrual cycle to figure out how long it is. Use a spare notebook to jot down some basic info, like your temperature, or if you're currently on your period. If you're on your period, mention if your bleeding is regular or especially heavy, or if you're experiencing a lot of pain. You can also use this diary to track how long your average period is.[2]
- Your menstrual cycle refers to the total length of time between 2 periods, while your period refers to your menstrual bleeding.
- For a regular diary entry, you can include the date, your body temperature, as well as any symptoms you had throughout the day.
- Calculate your most fertile day using your past cycles. Look at your past 4-6 recorded cycles, and find the shortest one. Remove 18 days from the total length of that cycle. Transfer that number to a calendar or journal where you're tracking your current menstrual cycle. To figure out when your fertile window ends, subtract 11 from the length of the longest menstrual cycle you've had.[3]
- For instance, if your shortest cycle was 27 days, subtract 18 from that number, which gives you 9. If your most recent menstrual cycle started on the 6th of the month, you'd circle the 15th as your first fertile day.
- If your longest cycle was 32 days, subtract 11 from 32, which gives you 21. If your current menstrual cycle started on the 6th, you'd mark down the 27th as the end of your fertile window, which is 21 days after the 6th.
- Try to get pregnant between the 8th and 19th days of your cycle. Use your tracking journal to figure out how long your menstrual cycle is. If your average cycle is between 26 and 32 days, check a calendar to figure out when the 8th and 19th days of your cycle are. Try having intercourse consistently during those 11 days, which may lead to a successful pregnancy.[4]
- If you're not trying to get pregnant, use extra caution when having sex during this part of your cycle.
- This is also known as the "Standard Days" method.
- Don't be discouraged if you don't see results right away! It may be tricky to get the timing exactly right.
- Look for stretchy, slipper cervical mucus to confirm your fertile days. Look at your underwear or vaginal canal to see what kind of mucus, or vaginal discharge, shows up. If your discharge is dry, you probably aren't fertile. When your discharge is slippery and stretchy, there's a chance that you may be fertile. As you continue to check your discharge, use your journal to track the texture and amount of mucus that you have.[5]
- Once you've had slippery mucus for at least 2 days, you can assume that you're fertile.
- You can also check your cervical mucus by rubbing a clean finger inside your vagina.
- Dry, cloudy, slippery, sticky, and wet are all different words you can use to describe your discharge.
- Record your temperature throughout your cycle to determine when you're infertile. Visit a pharmacy or health supply store to pick up a traditional or rectal (basal) thermometer. Take your temperature for 5 minutes, then write down the average temperature in your menstrual cycle journal. Try to track your temperature throughout your cycle, and take note of whenever it goes up. Note that when your temperature is consistently higher than average for at least 3 days, you likely won't get pregnant.[6]
- The infertile window, or "safe days" end once your average temperature drops before the beginning of your period.
- This method isn't super effective on its own—it's best if you use the cervical mucus method (or another method of your choice) to see if you're fertile or not.
- You'll likely have the most accurate results if you check your vaginal temperature.
- Use the Lactational Amenorrhea Method (LAM) if you're a new mother. Examine your current lifestyle, especially if you've recently had a child. Try tracking your menstrual cycle, as well as how often you're breastfeeding. If you haven't had a period since giving birth, have a child that's younger than 6 months, and breastfeed your child on a regular basis, you may be infertile.[7]
- Live a healthy lifestyle to improve your fertility as a male. Cut back on smoking and drinking if you do either of these on a regular basis, as these habits may lower your sperm production overall. Additionally, opt for comfortable, breathable underwear to prevent any heat stress.[8]
- Certain medications, like anabolic steroids, may lower your fertility.
[Edit]Improving Your Ability to Conceive - Test your sperm to see if it's fertile. Find a home sperm test online or at your local pharmacy. Use this test to analyze a sample of your sperm to see how concentrated it is. If you ejaculate at least 20 million sperm per millimeter, you may not have to worry about any fertility issues. If you ejaculate less than 20 million sperm per millimeter, then you may want to talk to a doctor about further fertility tests.[9]
- Keep in mind that sperm count may not determine if you're fertile or not.
- This test can let you know if you need to see a doctor or not.
- Try having sex on a regular basis when you're fertile. During your fertile window, plan to have intercourse with your partner every 2-3 days. When you have sex consistently, you're more likely to conceive a child.[10]
- Talk to your doctor about stopping contraception. If you're currently on birth control, you probably won't have much luck getting pregnant. Schedule an appointment with your doctor to figure out the best way to adjust your daily regimen so you can safely and successfully conceive a child.[11]
- Other forms of contraception, like condoms, will greatly lower your chances of conceiving a child.
- See a doctor for fertility tests if you can't conceive. Ask your doctor if there are any tests that you can do to find out if you're fertile. If you're having trouble conceiving, there might be something more serious that's causing the problem. Depending on your doctor's professional opinion, you may want to get a hormone or imaging test to see what the issue is.[12]
- A hysteroscopy or hysterosalpingography lets your doctor examine your uterus and other reproductive organs for damage. Men might get a vasography, which examines the vas deferens.
- Blood tests and other procedures may also be taken to check testosterone levels, as well as any pre-existing conditions. Women with polycystic ovary syndrome or premature ovarian failure may be less likely to conceive.
- Ask your doctor if there's any medications that can improve your chances at fertility and conception, like a treatment for erectile dysfunction.[13]
- Look into surgical options if your at-home tests aren't working well.[14]
- Having sex more often may increase your chances of conceiving a child.[15]
- A low-stress, low-caffeine lifestyle may help boost your chances of conceiving a child.[16]
[Edit]Warnings - As frustrating as it is, infertility doesn't always have a discernible cause. Keep this in mind when you visit the doctor.[17]
[Edit]References |
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