| How to Remove Rust from a Blade Posted: 10 Jun 2020 05:00 PM PDT When it comes to tools, nothing is better than having a sharp blade that can cut through anything. Unfortunately, metal blades are prone to damage when exposed to water. Maybe you left your favorite kitchen knife in the sink overnight, or perhaps you stored your best saw blade in a damp corner of the garage. No matter what kind of blade you have, you can wash off rust with a few household cleaners. Rust is unpleasant and blunts tools, but it doesn't have to be the end of your blade. [Edit]Using Baking Soda on Light Rust - Wash off the blade with a mild dish soap water to remove debris. Fill a bowl with about of warm water, followed by of dish detergent. Stir in the dish detergent until it's soapy. Then, put the blade into the water and scrub it with a clean sponge. Wash off as much loose rust, oil, and other debris off the blade as possible.[1]
- Things like dirt and oil can prevent baking soda from soaking into rust stains. Clean the blade so more of the rust comes off later.
- In most cases, you can use whatever dish soap you have available. Avoid using anything harsh with added chemicals or scents. If the soap is designed for cutting through tough grease, it's probably too strong for your blade.
- Mix 3 parts of baking soda with 1 part water in a bowl. For example, mix about 1 tablespoon (14.40 g) of baking soda with of water. Stir them together until they form a paste. Make enough of the paste to cover all of the rusty spots on the blade.[2]
- Baking soda is stronger and easier to apply as a paste, but sometimes, plain baking soda is enough to eliminate rust. Just sprinkle the baking soda onto the blade, scrub it into the rusty spots, and rinse it off.
- Baking soda is useful on thin and lightly-rusted blades. You can always use baking soda with vinegar as well by mixing them in equal amounts for a safe, neutral cleaner.
- Spread the baking soda over the blade with a toothbrush. Dip the brush into the bowl to scoop up some of the paste. Make sure all of the rust spots are well-covered. To ensure you don't miss any, start at the handle and work toward the tip.[3]
- Cover every spot. You can't use too much baking soda on it.
- Scrub the baking soda into rust spots with a toothbrush. Work along the length of the blade from the handle to the tip. Treat each spot to remove as much of the rust as possible. Scrub in the direction of the handle and tip rather than the sharp edge. When you're done, remember to flip the blade over to clean its other side as well.[4]
- If the toothbrush isn't working, you could switch to a scouring pad or another slightly-abrasive scrubber.
- Brush the blade with super fine steel wool to eliminate older rust stains. Press the steel wool pad gently. Move it back and forth along the blade's length. Work toward the tip, scrubbing out rusty spots as you come across them. Apply more of the baking soda paste as needed to keep the spots covered while you're scrubbing them.[5]
- Super fine steel wool has a grade code of #0000. If you see that number, then you have the softest kind of wool least likely to scratch a good blade.
- Steel wool can scratch metal, so be careful. Scrub lightly and keep the pad away from the sharp edge of the blade.
- You could also use a wire brush or a slightly-abrasive sponge to eliminate older rust stains.
- Rinse the knife under warm water to clean off the rust. Turn on the sink tap and wait for the water to warm up. Then, hold the knife under the water. Check for any remaining rust flakes still stuck on the metal and try scrubbing them out with a toothbrush.[6]
- The water won't damage your blade as long as you wipe it dry before storing it. Take plenty of time making sure that the blade looks clean and doesn't need another round of baking soda paste.
- Wipe water off the blade with a clean microfiber cloth. Hold the cloth over the blunt side of the blade and wipe the sides clean. Then, look for any signs of moisture or rust still on it. Make sure the blade is completely dry before attempting to store it. If it's still a little rusty, clean it again first.[7]
- You could try using more baking soda if the rust stains look newer and seem shallow. For example, let the baking soda soak into the rust for an hour before washing it.
- If the blade has deep rust stains, try using vinegar or another cleaner first, then treat it a second time with baking soda to remove any marks still lingering on it.
[Edit]Soaking Stubborn Rust Stains with Vinegar - Fill a cup full of white vinegar. If you use a cup, you can stand most blades up to let them soak. This will be a little more difficult with longer blades. To clean long blades, fill a pan, such as a baking sheet, instead. Add enough vinegar to cover the rusted parts of the blade.[8]
- Apple cider vinegar is also safe to use, but other types of vinegar may stain your blade. If you don't have vinegar, you could use citric acid or lemon juice instead.
- To make a stronger cleaner, pour in ¼ cup (75.0 g) of salt. It makes the vinegar more acidic so the rust breaks down faster than normal.
- Vinegar is effective no matter how rusty a blade is, but it is also acidic enough to damage metal. Be careful with it, and try using baking soda if your blade isn't very rusty.
- Soak the blade in the vinegar for at least 5 minutes. Place the blade in the vinegar so the rusted bits are submerged. Set a timer and come back to it afterward. Don't let the blade soak for too long in case the vinegar starts to wear away the metal.[9]
- Another option is to dampen a cloth in vinegar, then wrap it around the blade. It's useful if you're having a hard time finding a way to keep a long blade submerged.
- Some people soak their blades as long as overnight. You can try this if your blade is in bad shape, but you usually won't have to.
- Wipe off the rust using a mildly abrasive scouring pad. Start at the handle and work toward the tip of the blade, scrubbing off the rust spots gently. Most of it will come off without much difficulty. Flip the blade over to scrub the other side as well.[10]
- For example, scrub the blade clean with the green side of a kitchen sponge or get a separate scouring pad. You could also use something like an old toothbrush to clear off the loose rust.
- If you're having a hard time removing any rust spots, make sure that the blade is still damp. You can stick it back in the vinegar and scrub it while it's submerged.
- Rinse the blade under warm water to clear off the vinegar. You might be a little wary about exposing your cleaned blade to water right away, but it will be fine. Turn on the sink tap, let the water warm up, then rinse it off. Wash off as much of the rust as possible, too.[11]
- If you're looking for a stronger cleaning solution, apply a little dish soap to the blade and scrub it clean before rinsing it off.
- Wipe the blade dry with a clean microfiber cloth. Thoroughly dry off both sides of the blade to ensure all of the moisture is gone. When you're done, check the blade's condition. Vinegar is very effective on rust, but it might not eliminate all of the rust in one go.[12]
- Make sure the blade is completely dry. Any moisture left on it could cause it to rust again.
- If the blade is still a little dirty, scrub it again with more vinegar. You could also try baking soda or a harsher scrubber like steel wool.
[Edit]Polishing Damaged Blades with WD-40 and Sandpaper - Scrub the blade with a sponge dampened in soapy water. Pour about of warm water into a small bowl. Next, mix in of a mild dish detergent. Dip a sponge into the water to wash the blade clean, then rinse it under running water afterward.[13]
- Clear off any debris left on the blade before attempting to treat the rust. The WD-40 does a better job without the debris in its way.
- Use a mild dish soap without added chemicals or artificial scents. Avoid ones that are made for tough grease, for instance.
- Spray WD-40 over the rust spots on the blade. Hold the canister about from the blade. As you start spraying, sweep the nozzle along the length of the blade. Make sure all the rusty spots are covered. Go back over any spots you missed the first time.
- If you don't have WD-40, you could use another rust removal product. For example, try getting a cleaner containing oxalic acid.
- Save WD-40 and other rust removers for blades you don't use to prepare food. They work well on machetes or Damascus steel, for instance
- Wait 10 minutes for the WD-40 to soak into the blade. Place the blade on a soft towel so you aren't stuck holding it. Then, set a timer and check back later. The rust will be softened enough to scrub off the blade.[14]
- If the rust is bad, you could soak the blade in the WD-40 for longer. Try leaving it for up to 3 hours to treat light rust or 12 to 24 hours for heavy rust.
- Use 400-grit sandpaper to scrub rust off of the blade. Hold the blade down by its handle, then press the sandpaper against it. Apply a very light amount of pressure so you don't inadvertently scratch it. Then, scrub the rusted spots in the direction of the blade's tip. Flip it over to scrub the other side afterward.[15]
- Always work along the length of the blade. Also, be careful to avoid touching its sharp edge, since the sandpaper could blunt it.
- You could also use super fine steel wool or a wire brush, but be gentle to avoid leaving scratches on the metal.
- Treat the blade repeatedly with WD-40 if it's still rusty. Deep rust stains take some extra elbow grease to buff out, so don't give up if your blade isn't how you want it to be right away. Spray more WD-40 over the rusty spots and wait another 10 minutes for it to soak in. Then, rub off as much dust as you can again with a fresh piece of sandpaper. Depending on the state of your blade, you might have to go through all the steps several times to make it shine again.[16]
- Alternatively, switch to alternative cleaners like rust removal products containing oxalic acid. Vinegar and baking soda are also good choices if the remaining rust isn't too bad.
- Apply a fresh coat of WD-40 to protect the blade when you're finished. Hold the blade over a towel or another surface, then spray it all over. To ensure you coat the entire thing, start at the handle and move toward the tip. Flip it over to cover the opposite side as well. The additional coating of WD-40 lubricates your blade and protects it from rusting again.[17]
- Many people use mineral oil to rust-proof blades. If you have some, dampen a cloth in it and then wipe the cloth across the blade.
- If you have a kitchen knife, finish it with a coat of food-grade mineral oil instead of WD-40.
- If you have a valuable blade and don't wish to risk damaging it further, contact the manufacturer or a professional knife restorer in your area.
- Some common foods, like raw potatoes, are effective on light rust if you're out of options. After sprinkling your blade with salt or baking soda, rub it with a potato for a quick and easy treatment.[18]
- The best way to deal with rust is by preventing it. Wash and dry your blade after each use, then keep it in a dry spot away from moisture.[19]
- Treat your blades with a rust inhibitor at least once a year, such as by applying WD-40 or using mineral oil if you use the blade to prepare food.[20]
[Edit]Warnings - Many treatments, including vinegar and steel wool, can further damage metal. Treat your blades sparingly and with caution to preserve them.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using Baking Soda on Light Rust - Bowl
- Mild dish detergent
- Baking soda
- Toothbrush
- Super fine steel wool
- Microfiber cloth
[Edit]Soaking Stubborn Rust Stains with Vinegar - Bowl
- Mild dish detergent
- White vinegar
- Scouring pad
- Microfiber cloth
[Edit]Polishing Damaged Blades with WD-40 and Sandpaper - Mild dish detergent
- WD-40
- 400-grit sandpaper
[Edit]References |
| How to Disinfect Your Devices Posted: 10 Jun 2020 09:00 AM PDT With the coronavirus COVID-19 making its way through communities around the world, health experts are recommending that you take special care to clean and disinfect surfaces that are frequently touched throughout the day.[1] Phones, tablets, and computers are all high-touch surfaces that can accumulate dirt, grime, germs, and viruses, putting you at risk for getting sick.[2] Fortunately, disinfecting your device is as easy as wiping it down with a soft cloth or wipe and a little bit of alcohol-based disinfectant! [Edit]Disinfecting Phones and Tablets - Disinfect your device after taking it out in public. Unless there's someone sick in your home, your device isn't likely to pick up too many dangerous germs and viruses from regular home use. However, your risk increases when you use it in public after touching other surfaces. If you've recently been out and about, disinfect your phone when you get back home.[3]
- Avoid using your phone while you're in the restroom, especially in public places. Keep your phone inside your bag or pocket when you go into a public restroom to prevent contamination.
- Unplug and power down your device before you clean it. Disconnect your phone or tablet from its charger, headphones, or any other cable devices.[4] Once your device is unplugged, shut it down completely.[5]
- Turning off your device will help reduce the possibility of damage in case a little moisture gets inside.
- Unplugging your device can also reduce the risk of electric shock.
- Rub away debris and fingerprints with a soft microfiber cloth. Before disinfecting your phone or tablet, remove obvious grease, dirt, and debris. Use a dry, soft, lint-free microfiber cleaning cloth to wipe all the surfaces of your phone.[6]
- Don't use a paper towel or even a tissue since paper products can scratch up the surface of your device.
- Wipe all surfaces with a 70% alcohol or Clorox disinfectant wipe. Use a pre-moistened disinfectant wipe or spray a little alcohol-based disinfectant on a clean microfiber cloth. Gently wipe down the screen and body of your mobile device, but take care not to get moisture into any of the ports or openings.[7]
- Avoid submerging your phone or spraying any kind of liquid cleaner or disinfectant directly on it.[8]
- Wipe your device gently to avoid damaging the oil-resistant coating. You can also avoid damage by using a screen protector and case on your phone or tablet.
- You can also use a mild soap, such as dishwashing liquid or liquid hand soap, to clean most devices. Dampen a microfiber cloth with water and a few drops of soap, then rub your device down with it.
- Hand-wash phone cases with soap and warm water. If your phone or other mobile device has a case, take it off your phone to clean it. Dampen a cloth using water and soap or gentle laundry detergent, then gently rub the case with it. Rinse it off with cold water, then allow it to air dry.[9]
- Make sure your case is completely dry before you put it back on your device.
- Wash your hands before and after handling your device. Most germs and viruses end up on your phone or other mobile devices through contact with your hands. To avoid contaminating your device, wash your hands with soap and warm water before you use it. Wash them again after you use it, especially if you haven't had a chance to disinfect your device recently.[10]
- It's especially important to wash your hands before and after using your device if you're in a public place, you've just gone to the bathroom, or you're about to handle food.
[Edit]Sanitizing Your Computer and Keyboard - Unplug your computer or keyboard before cleaning it. Before you clean your computer or keyboard, disconnect the power cord and all other cables. If possible, take out the batteries. Power down your device completely.[11]
- Keeping your computer and keyboard unplugged and powered down will reduce your risk of electric shock.
- Wipe down the outer case of your computer with a disinfectant wipe. Use an alcohol-based wipe (preferably at least 70% isopropyl alcohol) to wipe the screen and outer shell of your computer. Take special care not to let liquids run into any openings or ports.[12]
- You can also dip a soft microfiber cloth in alcohol or water and a few drops of mild dish soap.
- Don't use tissue or paper towels since these could scratch up your case and screen.
- Never spray cleanser directly on your computer, since moisture could get inside and damage the electronic components.
- Clean the keyboard with a disinfectant wipe or cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol. Carefully wipe your keyboard and the spaces between the keys with a disinfectant wipe. Clorox disinfectant wipes or 70% isopropyl alcohol wipes will work well. You can also moisten a microfiber cloth with a small amount of rubbing alcohol (at least 70%) and use that.[13]
- Just take care not to use a soaking wet cloth or allow any liquid to seep into the small openings around your keys.
- While different computer manufacturers have different cleaning recommendations, healthcare professionals have found that disinfectant wipes are generally safe and effective to use on computer keyboards.[14]
- If there's obvious dust and debris on your keyboard, blow it away with a little compressed air. You can get a compressed air canister at an electronics or office supply store.
- Allow your computer and keyboard to air dry. Once you've wiped down your computer and keyboard, let them sit for a while so the disinfectant can evaporate. This will give it more time to kill any germs and viruses on the surface. Wait until everything is completely dry before you plug in your computer and turn it back on.[15]
- Most disinfectants need to sit on a surface for 3-5 minutes in order to work properly.[16]
- Wash your hands before and after using your keyboard. One of the best ways to keep your keyboard germ-free is to avoid getting germs on it in the first place. Wash your hands with soap and warm water before you sit down to use your computer. If other people have been using your keyboard or you have had it out in public, wash your hands after you're done, too.[17]
- You're most likely to pick up germs from a keyboard that's been used by a lot of people or that you have handled after being in a public place without washing your hands.
[Edit]Warnings - There are a variety of UVB light-based disinfectants on the market that you can use to get rid of microbes on phones, but they are not medical-grade and it's not clear whether they kill the coronavirus. Use caution and don't rely on these devices to keep you safe. UV light can also cause skin sunburn and skin damage if you're exposed to it for too long.[18]
[Edit]References |
| How to Prevent Dust on a Glass Table Posted: 10 Jun 2020 01:00 AM PDT It doesn't take long for a coat of dust to ruin the clarity and shine of a glass-top table. Fortunately, it takes even less time to safeguard your table and keep dust from becoming as much of a problem in the future. All you need is a selection of everyday household items and a basic understanding of the kind of treatment your glass needs to look its best. [Edit]Dust-Proofing the Glass with Fabric Softener - Combine 4 parts water and 1 part liquid fabric softener in a spray bottle. Pour the fabric softener into the empty bottle until it's roughly ⅕ of the way full. Then, fill it the rest of the way up with water. This should give you just the right proportions of both ingredients.[1]
- If you add too much fabric softener, it could produce a sticky film on the surface of the glass.
- It doesn't matter whether you use cold water or warm water. Just make sure that it's clean and fresh from the tap.
- Shake the bottle for 20-30 seconds to blend your ingredients. Double-check that the lid is screwed on tightly to avoid making a mess. Following a vigorous shake, your finished solution should have a somewhat milky consistency only slightly thicker than water.
- Be sure to shake the bottle again right before you start spraying. Some separation may occur as the solution sits.
- Spray a small amount of solution onto a microfiber cloth or soft, lint-free towel. Fold your cloth or towel once or twice to form a large pad, then spritz it just enough times to dampen it. You'll be using this to do your dusting.[2]
- Don't use paper towels to dust glass. Not only do they typically leave behind streaks and irritating paper debris, they're also more likely to cause scratches than softer items.
- Wipe down the entire table. The damp cloth will take care of even the thickest blanket of dust that's accumulated on the surface. Make sure that you give every part of the tabletop some attention. If you miss a spot, it won't benefit from your solution's anti-dust properties.[3]
- If you notice standing moisture on the table when you're done, you've probably used too much solution. Flip your dusting pad over and use the dry side to sponge up the excess liquid.
- When applied to glass and other smooth surfaces, this simple solution works by creating a barrier that prevents dust and other tiny particles from settling.[4]
- Buff the glass with a separate cloth until it's crystal clear. Now, grab a second microfiber cloth or soft towel and go back over every part of the table you just dusted. This will pick up any remaining dust while also removing lingering traces of solution that might otherwise dry and create noticeable spots. When you're done, it should be like looking at a brand new table![5]
- Be careful not to touch the table with your bare hands after drying it, or you could leave smudges or fingerprints and ruin all of your hard work.
- You can use your fabric softener solution in place of ordinary glass cleaner for future dustings or in addition to it as an extra measure of protection.
[Edit]Keeping Your Glass Table Pristine - Wipe your table with fabric softener sheets in between dustings. If your glass-top table is a dust magnet but you don't want to have to make dusting a daily chore, one easy fix is to hit it with a dry fabric softener sheet every couple of days. These will offer most of the same perks as your homemade solution, only with greater ease-of-use and disposability.[6]
- Another advantage of dryer sheets is that they help to eliminate dust-attracting static electricity, which has a way of building up on glass surfaces.[7]
- Keep in mind that a quick pass with a fabric softener sheet may not banish dust as effectively as a long-lasting liquid coating.
- Use a specialty glass cleaner for regular dustings. Glass cleaners are designed to fully remove dust, dirt, stains, and other substances that can spoil the look of glass surfaces. For best results, be sure to buy a glass cleaner that contains ammonia. This is where most of the product's grime-fighting power will come from.[8]
- A quality glass cleaner doesn't have to cost you an arm and a leg. In fact, many of the highest-rated products on the market are priced at less than $5 a bottle.[9]
- If you have qualms about buying products filled with strange chemicals, you can also try making your own all-natural glass cleaner using of distilled water, of vinegar, and a few drops of your favorite essential oil.[10]
- Avoid dry-dusting your glass table. Always dampen your dusting tool before you put it to glass. Bone-dry cloths and towels will only push dust and grit around. Over time, this type of rough treatment can lead to serious scratches that will rob your table of its beauty.
- The only time it's acceptable to use a dry cloth or towel on your table is right after you've used a wet one. Even then, it's important to select a soft to minimize the risk of damage.
- Deal with spills as soon as they occur. If you happen to get something you're eating or drinking on your glass table, wet a soft cloth with warm water and use it to wipe up the mess right away, then clean the glass as you normally would. Many foods and beverages become sticky when they dry. Because of this, they can attract more dust and hold onto it stubbornly.[11]
- A little distilled white vinegar or liquid dish soap can help cut through greasy food residue.
- Move your table away from areas where dust tends to be a problem. If possible, situate the table near the center of the room, far away from dust-caked window blinds and fuzzy ceiling fans. That way, it will be less likely to serve as a landing pad for drifting particles. Other places where dust tends to lurk include the tops of cabinets, deep in the fibers of high rugs and carpets, and around air vents.[12]
- If you notice that the dust on your table is thicker in some spots than others, pay attention. The way the dust is distributed could offer a clue as to where it's coming from.[13]
- The dryer the air in your home, the faster and further dust will travel. Consider investing in a small humidifier unit to introduce a little extra moisture to your immediate environment and make dust levels more manageable.
[Edit]Warnings - Before using a particular glass cleaner, check the cleaning guidelines provided by your table's manufacturer to see if it's safe. If the glass has been specially treated, the wrong cleaner could make it more susceptible to discoloration, etching, and other issues.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Dust-Proofing the Glass with Fabric Softener - Spray bottle
- Liquid fabric softener
- Water
- Microfiber cloth or soft, lint-free towel
[Edit]Keeping Your Glass Table Pristine - Fabric softener sheets
- Glass cleaner
- Microfiber cloth or lint-free towel
- Distilled white vinegar or liquid dish soap (optional)
[Edit]References |
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