| How to Waterproof Clothes Posted: 06 Aug 2020 05:00 PM PDT Whether you like to camp with your kids or enjoy spending time playing in the snow with them, it makes sense to waterproof their clothing. You might not have the money to purchase full waterproof gear for your kids, so doing it yourself is a great way to save money and ensure they can get wet and still have fun. [Edit]Spraying a Waterproof Coating - Choose a durable water-repellent spray to waterproof any type of fabric. Durable water-repellent coating, or DWR, is a liquid polymer that coats the fabric and makes it resistant to water. The spray works for any type of clothing material including canvas, cotton, and leather, and is a great choice if you're looking for an easy application, or to re-coat a raincoat or waterproof clothing. Look for a DWR coating spray at your local outdoor supply shop or search online for it.[1]
- Many raincoats and water-resistant clothing have been coated with a DWR spray, which can fade over time. You can easily re-coat your clothing to restore its water resistance.
- Wash the clothes with a technical fabric wash and let them dry. Dirt and residue on the surface of your clothes will affect the adhesion of your DWR spray, so run them through your washer and dryer before you apply it. Use a technical fabric wash, which is made of biodegradable soaps and won't leave behind a residue that will affect the spray.[2]
- Standard detergents can leave behind an oily residue that will actually attract water.
- Technical fabric washes are also gentler on the fabric and are more environmentally-friendly.
- You can find technical fabric washes at specialty clothing shops or by ordering it online. A few popular brands include NikWax Tech Wash and Dry Guy Fabric Tech Wash.
- Place your clothing item on a piece of cardboard. Lie your clothing flat on the ground on top of a piece of clean cardboard so you don't get any spray on the carpet or ground beneath it. Make sure the clothes don't have any folds or creases in them so the spray goes on evenly.[3]
- DWR spray can become slick if water gets on it, so don't apply it over a concrete or tile floor without using cardboard to protect it.
- Apply an even coat of the DWR spray all over the fabric. Hold the spray bottle from the fabric and move it back and forth as you apply the coating so it goes on evenly. Flip the clothing over and adjust it as needed so you're able to apply the spray over all of the surface.[4]
- A thin, even layer is the goal.
- Wipe away the extra liquid with a clean cloth and let the clothes dry. Once you're finished applying the DWR coating, take a clean cloth and use it gently wipe away an of the excess liquid so only a thin layer is infused into the fibers of the fabric. Hang the clothing on a clothesline or drying rack and wait until the material is fully dry before you wear it.[5]
[Edit]Waxing the Clothing - Choose wax to waterproof canvas and fabric with natural fibers. Wax is a natural and effective way to waterproof clothing such as jackets, hats, and even bags, but it's most effective on natural materials like canvas and natural fibers such as cotton or hemp. Choose wax to waterproof your clothes if the fabric is made out of natural, non-synthetic fibers.[6]
- Synthetic fibers may not absorb the wax as well and may not form a waterproof coating.
- Boil water in a saucepan and place a metal bowl on top. Make a double boiler that will gently heat up the wax by taking a standard-sized saucepan and filling it about halfway with water. Bring the water to a bowl and then take a metal bowl and rest it on the pan so the bottom isn't touching the water and space between the pan and bowl is able to trap the heat.[7]
- If the bowl is actually in contact with the water then it will become too hot, so make sure you use a bowl large enough to cover the water without touching it.
- Melt 4 oz (115 g) of beeswax pellets and paraffin wax in the bowl. Beeswax pellets are small beads of solid wax. Place them in the metal bowl to gently melt them. Paraffin wax comes as a solid block, so cut off chunks of it and add 4 oz (115 g) into the bowl with the beeswax and stir them as they melt to combine them.[8]
- You can find beeswax pellets and paraffin wax at your local department store, craft supply store, or by ordering them online.
- Combining both waxes creates an insoluble, waterproof mixture.
- Brush a thick layer of the wax over the fabric with a paintbrush. Take a paintbrush and dip it into the wax mixture in the bowl. Start in 1 section of the clothing item and spread a thick layer of the wax. Work in sections to apply the wax in an even layer over the entire surface of the fabric. Make sure you don't leave any gaps or exposed areas.[9]
- Be sure to get crevices such as armpits and inner seams as well.
- Hold a hairdryer over the wax until it melts it into the fabric. Once you've applied the wax mixture all over the jacket, use a hairdryer on a high-heat setting and keep it continuously moving over the surface of the clothing for about 5-10 minutes, or until the wax liquefies. Move the hairdryer all around the clothing to heat and infuse the wax with the fibers of the clothing.[10]
- Don't hold the hairdryer over 1 spot for too long or the wax can liquefy and run off.
- Let the wax cool and apply more to any uneven spots. The wax mixture will start to harden within a few minutes, so wait for it to dry and inspect the clothing. Look for any patches that are missing the wax as well as sections with uneven layers. Add more wax to fill in or even out any areas, if necessary.[11]
- If the wax in the bowl has started to harden, warm the saucepan up on the stuff to re-melt it.
- Allow the clothing to cure for 24 hours. Hang the clothing or place it on a clean surface in a well-ventilated area to help the wax harden and cure evenly. Wait a full day before you wear the clothing to allow the wax to fully fuse with the fibers.[12]
- If the wax is still really damp and sticky after 24 hours, wait another 12 hours to let it cure.
[Edit]Soaking in a Waterproofing Solution - Use powder laundry detergent and alum to waterproof any fabric. Soaking clothes in a water-soluble soap and a salt such as aluminum potassium sulfate, or alum, causes a reaction that forms a waterproof layer over the surface of the clothes. Use a standard powdered laundry detergent that doesn't have any extra scents or chemicals and powdered alum to create your solution.[13]
- Waterproofing with alum and detergent takes more time than applying a DWR coating but is just as effective.
- Liquid detergent has other chemicals added to it to keep it in its liquid form that can leave an oily residue on the clothing, so go with unscented powdered detergent.
- Look for powdered alum at your local home improvement store, department store, or by ordering it online.
- Wash and dry the fabric you want to waterproof. Run your clothing through a wash and dry cycle to remove any oil residue and dirt from the surface. It's important that the fibers are clean so they're better able to absorb the waterproofing solution.[14]
- Combine of hot water and 500 g (2 cups) of detergent. Heat a pot of water on the stove until it boils and then remove it from heat so it stops bubbling. Carefully pour it into a large bucket and add your detergent into the water. Use a wooden spoon or another utensil to stir the water and combine it with the soap.[15]
- Be careful not to burn yourself with the hot water.
- Hot water helps the soap combine and loosens the fibers of the clothing, making them absorb the detergent more effectively.
- Submerge the fabric in the liquid so it's saturated. Add the clothing into the bucket and use your wooden spoon to push it down into the water. Make sure all of the clothing is fully saturated in the solution to infuse the detergent with the fibers.[16]
- Infusing the material with the detergent creates a foundation for the alum to react and form a waterproof layer.
- Push down any parts of the clothing that float to the top of the water.
- If the clothing keeps floating to the top, place a glass in the bucket to hold the material at the bottom.
- Hang the clothes to air dry. Carefully pull the clothing out of the bucket and wring it out gently so it's not dripping too much. Pin the clothing to a clothesline in the sun and leave it to fully dry. Touch the material with your fingers to see if it's fully dry before you take it down.[17]
- As the clothing dries, the water-soluble soap infuses with the fabric, so it's really important that it's fully dry.
- Mix of hot water and .25 kg (1 cup) of alum. Boil a pot of hot water and remove it from the heat so it stops bubbling before you carefully pour it into your bucket. Add your powdered alum into the water and stir it well to combine it.[18]
- Soak the clothing in the solution for 2.5 hours. Submerge your clothing back in the bucket with the alum solution. Wait at least 2.5 hours to allow the alum to react with the water-soluble soap and form a waterproof coating.[19]
- Make sure the clothing remains fully submerged the entire time.
- As the clothing soaks, the alum in the solution reacts with the chemicals in the detergent to form a waterproof layer over the fabric.
- Allow the clothing to air dry completely before you wear it. Take the clothing out of the solution and hang up on a clothesline in the sun to dry it out and allow the coating to set into the fibers. Once the clothing is dry, you're good to go! Remove it from the clothesline and wear it or store it until you're ready to wear it.[20]
- If you've got a clothing item that was already waterproof, but has lost its water resistance, use a DWR spray to re-coat it. Wax and alum may not be able to penetrate the existing waterproof layer.
[Edit]Warnings - Be careful not to burn yourself with the hot water if you're soaking the clothing.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Spraying a Waterproof Coating - DWR coating spray
- Sheet of cardboard
- Clean cloth
[Edit]Waxing the Clothing - Saucepan
- Metal bowl
- Beeswax pellets
- Paraffin wax
- paintbrush
- Hairdryer
[Edit]Soaking in a Waterproofing Solution - Unscented powdered laundry detergent
- Alum powder
- Large bucket
- Wooden spoon (or another stirring utensil)
[Edit]References |
| How to Do Your First Pull Up Posted: 06 Aug 2020 09:00 AM PDT Pull-ups are a great exercise to incorporate into your routine because they don't require special equipment and they work your shoulders, arms, and back muscles. However, pull-ups can be pretty challenging since you're lifting your bodyweight. Not being able to do a pull-up is really common, so don't get discouraged if you can't do one right away. It can take a bit of time and exercise to build up your strength, but as long as you keep practicing and working on your form, you'll be able to nail your first pull up! [Edit]Practicing Easier Variations - Do dead hangs to improve your form and grip strength. Use a sturdy pull-up bar that's tall enough for you to hang with your arms fully extended. Grab the bar and position your hands slightly wider than shoulder-width apart. Lift your feet off of the ground and try to bring your shoulder blades together to activate your back muscles. Hold the position for as long as you can before relaxing your body. Try to hold your dead hang for at least 10 seconds at a time and repeat the exercise for 10 reps.[1]
- Work your way up to holding your dead hang for a full minute so you get used to the grip and form.
- You can also try draping a towel over the bar. Bunch up the ends of the towel and hold onto it instead of the bar. The towel's uneven surface will make it more difficult to hang, but will make your grip better.[2]
- Try assisted pull-ups with a resistance band to help lift your bodyweight. Use a resistance band that forms a closed loop. Drape the band over your pull-up bar and feed one end through the loop. Pull the end down to secure the band to the pull-up bar. Place your foot in the resistance band and hold onto the bar so your hands are shoulder-width apart. Pull yourself up so your chin is over the bar. Hold the position for 1 count before lowering yourself back down. Try doing about 1–2 sets of 5–10 assisted pull-ups.[3]
- The resistance band will lower the resistance needed to lift your bodyweight so you can do pull-ups easier.
- Switch to bands with lower resistance as you get more comfortable lifting your bodyweight. Once you feel comfortable using the lowest resistance band, you can probably try doing a pull-up without one.
- Practice lowering yourself from the bar doing negative pull-ups. Stand on a chair or box so your head is already over the pull-up bar. Keep your hands slightly wider than shoulder-width and hold tightly onto the bar. Step off of the chair and slowly straighten your arms to lower your body down. When your arms are fully extended, let go of the bar. Do 1–2 sets that are around 8–10 reps each.[4]
- Negative pull-ups isolate your movements so you can practice the last half of the pull-up even if you can't lift your bodyweight just yet. Once you feel comfortable doing 2–3 sets, try doing a full pull-up.
- Jump onto the bar to boost yourself up during the pull-up. Stand underneath the bar or on a chair so you can reach it. Try to jump straight up and grab onto the bar so your hands are shoulder-width apart. Use your momentum to pull your chin over the bar and hold the position for 1 count. Slowly lower yourself back down so your arms are fully extended again. Try doing as many jumping pull-ups as you can.[5]
- Jumping pull-ups can also help strengthen your muscles since you're doing more explosive exercises. As jumping pull-ups get easier, don't jump as high to make them more challenging.
- Attempt a partial pull-up to improve your range of motion. Hang from the bar with your arms shoulder-width apart and your feet off of the ground. Touch your shoulder blades together and bend your elbows to pull up your bodyweight. Try to pull yourself up as far as you can in a slow and controlled motion. When you feel like you can't lift yourself up anymore, straighten your arms and relax. Try to do as many partial pull-ups as you can.[6]
- Doing partial pull-ups are a great way to check your progress so you can see how much stronger you've gotten. One day, you may even try a partial pull-up and end up doing your first full one!
- You may also try doing chin-ups, where you hang onto the bar with your palms facing you instead of away from you. Chin-ups may be easier for you since you keep your hands closer together and use your biceps more.
[Edit]Strengthening Your Muscles - Exercise 4–5 days every week to get stronger. Set aside 30-minute sessions throughout the week for you to work out. Plan on working your upper body and back during your workouts to improve your pull-up strength. It doesn't matter which days you choose, but take at least 2 rest days so you don't strain your muscles. General exercise will also help you lose weight, which means you'll have less bodyweight to lift.[7]
- You can also incorporate other muscle groups into your routine so you aren't doing the same thing every day. For example, you may work your upper body and chest one day and then exercise your back and legs the next day.
- Try choosing a few days each week to do cardio exercises, such as biking, running, or swimming, to help improve your stamina.
- Use a lat pull-down machine to strengthen your back. Lat pull-down machines simulate the motion you'll use during a pull-up but you can choose the weight you're lifting. Slide the pin into a comfortable weight and reach up to grab the bar. Pull the bar on the machine down so it's below your chin and hold it for 1 count. Raise the bar back up slowly to the starting position. Try doing 8–12 lat pull-downs per set for 1–2 sets.[8]
- Increase the weight as you get more comfortable on the machine. Try to work all the way up to your bodyweight so you're prepared to do your first pull-up.
- You can also use an assisted pull-up machine, which helps you improve your form but uses counterweights so you don't have to lift as much.
- Practice dumbbell curls to work your upper arms. Keep your arms straight and your palms face-up by your hips. Hold a barbell or dumbbells and slowly bend your elbow to start your curl. Bring the weight up to your shoulders and hold it for a count. Lower the weight back down until your arms are straight again to complete your rep. Practice doing around 10 reps for 2–3 sets.[9]
- Choose a weight you're comfortable with and doesn't cause a lot of strain. As lifting that weight gets easier, you can use something heavier.
- Avoid swinging the weights up or down since you won't work your biceps properly and you could injure yourself.
- As soon as you can finish your sets using weights, attempt doing a pull-up.
- Work out your back and arms with dumbbell rows. Stand in front of a workout bench with your feet shoulder-width apart and your knees slightly bent. Bend at the knees so you're leaning over the bench and support your weight with one of your arms. Hold a dumbbell in your other hand and let your arm hang straight down. Slowly lift the weight up to your chest. Hold it there for a count before lowering it back to the starting position.[10] Try doing about 3 sets that are 8–12 reps each.[11]
- Dumbbell rows help work out your back muscles and shoulders. Once you can comfortably row with dumbbells, start trying to do pull-ups.
- Keep the rest of your body still while doing dumbbell rows, or you may work the wrong muscles.
- Try lifting your bodyweight doing inverted body rows. Set a barbell on a rack so it's at waist-height. Lie on your back underneath the bar and grab onto it so your hands are shoulder-width apart. Keep the legs and body straight as you pull yourself up toward the bar. Hold your chest against the bar for 1 count before slowly lowering yourself back down. Try to do at least 10 reps for about 1–2 sets.[12]
- If you want more of a challenge, try putting the bar at knee-height instead.
- Inverted body rows help improve your back form and helps you get used to lifting your bodyweight. Once you can finish your sets without getting winded, you may be ready to perform your first pull-up.
- Perform farmer's carries with kettlebells to work on your grip strength. Hold a heavy kettlebell in each hand and grip the handle tightly. Keep your back in a neutral position and your arms at your sides. Hold the kettlebells for at least 60 seconds before lowering them back down to the floor. Rest for a few counts before picking the kettlebells up again. Complete 5 or 6 reps of farmer's carry during your workout.[13]
- If you want to make your farmer's carry more difficult, try holding onto the kettlebells while you walk .
[Edit]Performing a Pull-Up - Grip the bar with your hands shoulder-width apart. Stand on a chair, workout bench, or box so you can reach the pull-up bar. Position your hands so they're slightly wider than your shoulders with your palms facing away from you. Avoid gripping the bar any wider, or else it will be more difficult and affect your form.[14]
- If you have trouble holding onto the bar, wear exercise gloves to improve your grip.
- You can also jump up onto the bar, but you may have to adjust your grip while you're hanging.
- Let your body hang from the bar. Step off of the chair or bench so your feet are off the ground. Try to make your body into an arched banana shape so you don't swing around. Look straight ahead and keep your arms straight.[15]
- If you don't have room to fully straighten your legs, it's okay to bend your knees while performing a pull-up.
- Bring your shoulders together to engage your muscles. Try to lower your shoulders away from your ears to activate your latissimus dorsi, which is your upper back muscle. Move your shoulder blades closer to your spine to help engage the muscles so it's easier to lift your bodyweight.[16]
- Once you engage your shoulders and back, keep your body straight since it will be easier to control your movements.
- Pull your body up to lift your chin over the bar. Bend your elbows and engage your biceps to lift your bodyweight. Use slow and controlled movements so you maintain your form and reduce the risk of injury. Bring your chin up past the bar.[17]
- It may help to have a friend or workout partner to help encourage you. Having them cheer you on may give you enough extra push to complete your pull-up.
- If you feel shoulder or back pain or if you're unable to finish the pull-up, lower yourself back down slowly and let go of the bar so you don't strain yourself.
- Hold your head over the bar for 1 count. Maintain your position so your muscles stay engaged. Don't forget to breathe while you're at the top of your pull-up, or else you may feel more winded. If you feel like you can't keep holding your head over the bar, lower yourself back down slowly.[18]
- Lower yourself back down so your arms are straight. Slowly straighten out your arms and bring your head back below the bar. Keep your body rigid so it doesn't swing or move around during the exercise. Once you straighten your arms, relax your shoulders again to finish your rep.[19]
- Take a second to congratulate yourself and celebrate completing your first pull-up.
- Don't get discouraged if you can't do a pull-up right away since they can be really difficult. Keep exercising and working on your form so you continue to improve.
- Eat a healthy and balanced diet to help you maintain your bodyweight so it's easier for you to do a pull-up.
[Edit]Warnings - Avoid doing pull-ups if you feel pain or severe strain on your muscles since you could damage them more. Rest and wait until you're recovered to start doing pull-ups again.[20]
- Don't try lifting more weight than you're comfortable with since you could damage or strain your muscles.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Practicing Easier Variations [Edit]Strengthening Your Muscles [Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Refinish a Front Door Posted: 06 Aug 2020 01:00 AM PDT Your front door is one of the first things a person sees before entering your home, so you want to make a good first impression. If your door is looking a little worse for wear, it may be time to add a new coat of finish to freshen up its appearance and take it to the next level. For a natural look, you can use a combination of stain and clear finish to improve the appearance of your front door, while paint and primer can give your door a more colorful look. Overall, you'll need 3 days to complete this project, but it only takes a couple hours or so to sand down down the door and actually apply the finish. [Edit]Disassembling and Sanding the Door - Remove the door from its hinges. Open your front door slightly and place a sturdy doorstop beneath the door. Place the sharp part of a 16-penny nail along the bottom opening of your hinge and hammer the bottom of the nail a few times, which will loosen and remove the pin. Once all the pins are removed, angle the door so it fits through the doorframe and carry it outside to your workspace.[1]
- Remove the bottom hinge first, then work your way to the top.
- You can also hammer a screwdriver to remove the hinge pins.
- Place the hinge pins in a secure area so you can find and replace them later.
- Place the door horizontally on some padded sawhorses. Set up 2 sawhorses in an open work area, like your garage or yard. Drape a towel or other kind of padding over each sawhorse, then place your front door on top, with the handle or knob facing up.[2]
- The padding helps prevent your door from getting scratched or banged up.
- Take off any doorknobs and other hardware attached to the door. Unscrew the front doorknob or handle from the door, along with any lock mechanisms in the side of the door. Set all of the hardware aside so you can reinstall it later.[3]
- Remove any hardware that's attached to your door at this point, whether it's a knob, handle, lock, or kick plate.
- Buff away old varnish on the panels with an 80-grit paper and a random-orbit sander. Install an 80-grit sheet of sandpaper into a random-orbit sander and turn it on. Move the sander over the flat panels along the front of the door in slow, back and forth motions, focusing on any loose or peeling varnish. Sand away the worst of the old finish so the wood is visible underneath.[4]
- If you don't have a random-orbit sander, you can use regular sheets of sandpaper instead. However, the sanding process will take a lot longer to complete by hand.
- Smooth off the wood with 100-grit paper. Remove the old paper from your random-orbit sander and attach a sheet of 100-grit paper instead. Repeat the same process that you did before, but focus on smoothing out the surface of the wood. Only sand over the smooth portions of the door—don't worry about any creases or dips.[5]
- Polish the sanded wood with 120-grit paper. Take out the 100-grit paper and replace it with a finer grit. Turn on your device and sand off the same area again, which will give it a really smooth finish.[6]
- Before applying any finish, the door needs to be completely smooth and sanded down first.
- Scrape the old finish off the moldings with a trapezoid- or teardrop-shaped blade. Examine the corners and profile of your door where the wood is ornately curved and carved. Hold a handheld scraper with both hands, positioning it along the end of the profile. Apply a little pressure and drag the scraper forward to sand off these hard-to-reach areas.[7]
- A trapezoid-shaped scraper works best for flatter portions of the wood, while a teardrop-shaped scraper works well with narrow sections that are harder to access.
- Don't use a rotary or random-orbit sander to buff these profiles, or you could do a lot of damage to the wood.
- Hand-sand the wooden profiles with a sanding sponge. Fold a section of 100-grit sandpaper into thirds and start sanding the molding on your door that you just scraped. If needed, brush off the surface with a sanding sponge to buff off some hard-to-reach areas of your molding.[8]
- You can find a sanding sponge at your local hardware store.
- Brush and vacuum away any leftover sawdust from the surface of the door. Take a clean cloth and wipe off any obvious sawdust or finish leftover on the door. For a more thorough clean, go over the surface of the door with a vacuum tube attachment.[9]
- Reattach the door to its hinges. Ask a friend or family member to help you move the door back into the front entryway. Insert the hinge pins back into place, but don't reattach any other hardware yet.[10]
- Attaching the door ahead of time prevents the finish from being damaged later on.
[Edit]Staining Your Front Door - Apply a wood preservative and stain for a more natural look. Pick up a natural wood preservative like boiled linseed oil, and a can of your desired stain color. The linseed oil will help preserve and protect your door, while the stain will add a nice new color.[11]
- Apply a coat of boiled linseed oil to the surface of your door. Pour a small amount of boiled linseed oil into a painter's tray, then dip a small, bristle brush into the mixture. Spread the oil over the moldings, horizontal rails, and stiles first, then coat the flat portions of your door. This provides a sturdy base layer for the stain.[12]
- A natural-bristle brush is best for applying boiled linseed oil.[13]
- Wait for the linseed oil to dry completely. Check on your door every few hours to see if it's dry to the touch. You may have to wait at least a day before your door is ready for staining.[14]
- Check the label on your boiled linseed oil for more specific drying instructions.
- Brush a coat of stain onto your door and let it dry. Dip a clean brush into your stain and spread it over the interior and exterior sides of your door. For easier application, start with the moldings, horizontal rails, and vertical stiles, then apply stain to the flat sections of the door. Once you've applied the stain, wait at least 1 day until it's dry to the touch.[15]
- Double-check your stain bucket to see what the recommended drying time is.
- Add a second coat of stain to your door and allow it to dry. Dip your brush into the stain again and spread it over the inside and outside of your door. Focus on the moldings, rails, and stiles first, then flat sections.Wait for the stain to dry for 2 days, then apply a clear finish.[16]
[Edit]Applying Clear Finish - Pick an outdoor-specific, UV-protecting finish to keep your door in great condition. Think about how much TLC you'd like to give your front door. If you're looking for a quick solution, check out a varnish or finish with UV-protection specified in the label, which can save your door from future sun damage.[17]
- You can find different paint and finish options at your local hardware or home improvement store.
- Finishes with oxide pigments or trans-oxide pigments work well for this.[18]
- Soak a brush in paint thinner. Fill a sturdy tray or container with paint thinner and a separate bucket with the finish of your choice. Soak ⅓ of your brush bristles into the paint thinner, then shake off any excess.[19]
- This makes it easier to apply the paint initially.
- Paint over the door edges with clear finish and let them dry. Dip your brush into the finish and apply it in smooth, even strokes over the thin edges along the top and bottom of your door. Wait 1 day or so for the finish to dry completely before you move or paint any other sections of the door.[20]
- Follow the recommended instructions on your can of finish to figure out an exact drying time.
- You only need to dip the bottom of the bristles into the finish.
- Apply a coat of your desired finish over the front and back of your door. Dip your brush into the finish and apply a thin coat over the flat, paneled sections on both the exterior and interior sides of your door. Spread the paint along the grain of the wood in slow, even coats so your paint job looks smooth. Continue painting the moldings, horizontal rails, and vertical stiles of your door to give the surface an even polish.[21]
- Since you aren't painting a large surface, like a wall, it's best to use a brush instead of a roller.
- Horizontal rails are the raised, horizontal panels going across your door while vertical stiles are the raised, vertical portions.
- Leave the door ajar and let it dry overnight. Open the door slightly so it can be surrounded by fresh air. Let your door stand in the open overnight so the first layer of finish can dry completely.[22]
- Sand down the dried finish with 220-grit sandpaper. Take a section of 220-grit paper and rub down the dried finish in smooth, consistent strokes. Buff the entire surface of the door, including the moldings, stiles, and rails.[23]
- Wipe away any leftover dust from the door. Double-check all the crevices and curves of your door to make sure the dust is gone. You can wipe any leftover residue into the trash. As a final touch, brush off your door with a tack cloth.[24]
- You can get a tack cloth from your local hardware or home improvement store.
- Apply a second layer of finish over both sides of your door. Paint your door in the same order that you did before by starting with your wooden panels and making your way to the moldings. Finally, add another coat of finish to the horizontal rails and vertical stiles on your door.[25]
- Wait for the finish to dry overnight. Leave your door open overnight again, letting the fresh air dry off the wet finish. Don't apply any more finish until the door is completely dry to the touch.[26]
- Buff the door again with 280-grit sandpaper. Take a clean sheet of fine sandpaper and rub down the panels, moldings, railings, and stiles of the door. As you did before, wipe away any leftover residue and dust on the door, then wipe down the door with a tack cloth.[27]
- Add a final layer of finish to both sides of your door and let it dry. Dip your brush into the finish one last time and paint both sides of your door in the same order that you did before: panels, molding, horizontal rails, and vertical stiles. Keep your door open overnight again so the finish can dry completely. Once the finish is completely dry, you can reinstall your doorknob, kickplate, and any other missing hardware.[28]
[Edit]Painting the Door - Use a combination of enamel paint and primer for full coverage. Visit your local hardware or home improvement store and pick up some enamel primer and paint for your door. Instead of applying 3 coats of finish, start with a single coat of primer and 2 coats of enamel paint. This combination helps protect your door from sun damage, and can last up to a decade.[29]
- You can choose a paint color that matches your door, or pick a new color altogether.
- Tape the edges of your door to prevent paint spills. Rip away long strips of painters tape and secure them along the edges of your front door. Place the tape along the inner and outer edges of your door frame to prevent and primer or paint from spilling onto your home's exteriors or inner walls.[30]
- You can find painter's tape at most hardware or paint stores.
- Apply a coat of wood primer to your door and let it dry. Dip a brush into your primer and begin spreading it onto your front door. Start painting the top right or left corner and work your way down to the bottom of the door. Prime 1 half of the door at a time. Double-check that you've primed the edges of your door in addition to the front and back, then wait a day or so for the primer to dry.[31]
- For instance, you can paint the left side first, and then the right side (or vice versa).
- Check your primer can for more specific drying instructions.
- Buff the primer with 220-grit sandpaper. Take a new sheet of fine sandpaper and go over both sides of your front door. [32] Brush away any leftover paint dust with a tack cloth, so your door is completely smooth.[33]
- Fine sandpaper is a great option for fine-tuning painting projects, and helps your final paint job look as professional as possible.[34]
- Spread the first coat of paint to both sides of your door. Dip a clean, bristle brush into your desired paint color and apply it over the door. Follow the same pattern that you did with the primer, working from from 1 corner to the bottom of the door. Apply the paint in sections, then let it dry completely before you continue.[35]
- Double-check your paint can to see how much time the paint needs to dry.
- Sand down the dried paint with 220-grit sandpaper. Take another fresh sheet of sandpaper and go over the front and back portions of your front door. Once again, dust away any paint with a tack cloth so your door is as smooth as possible.[36]
- Add 2 more coats of paint while sanding in between. Apply a second coat of paint over the first, working from top to bottom as you did before. Wait for the paint to dry completely, then sand over the surface with 220-grit sandpaper and apply a third coat for good measure.[37]
- Clean up your door and reinstall any missing hardware. Wait for the paint to completely dry and remove the painter's tape surrounding your door. Additionally, take a few minutes reinstall your doorknob, kickplate, and any other hardware.[38]
- Contact a professional if you need help with any part of the finishing process.
- Always work in a well-ventilated area with a lot of open area flowing around.
[Edit]Warnings - If your door has a thick original finish, you may need to remove it with a chemical stripper.[39]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Disassembling and Sanding the Door - 16-penny nail
- Hammer
- Screwdriver
- Sawhorses
- Padding or towel
- Random-orbit sander
- 80-grit sandpaper sheets
- 100-grit sandpaper sheets
- 120-grit sandpaper sheets
- Clean cloth
- Tack cloth
- Vacuum
[Edit]Staining Your Front Door - Boiled linseed oil
- bristle paint brush
- Stain
- Screwdriver
- Paint tray (optional)
[Edit]Applying Clear Finish - Paint thinner
- Finish
- Bucket or paint tray
- bristle paint brush
- 220-grit sandpaper
- 280-grit sandpaper
- Tack cloth
[Edit]Painting the Door - Painter's tape
- Wood primer
- Finish paint
- bristle paint brush
- 220-grit sandpaper
- Tack cloth
- Screwdriver
[Edit]References |
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