| How to Check Lead Acid Battery Health Posted: 25 Aug 2020 05:00 PM PDT The liquid-filled lead acid batteries used in automobiles and a range of other products have many great qualities, but are also known to "go bad" with little warning. Fortunately, you can easily do a basic health checkup on any type of lead acid battery by hooking it up to a simple-to-use digital voltmeter. If you have an open-cell battery that lets you access the liquid inside, you can do a more rigorous checkup with a battery hydrometer. [Edit]Testing Your Battery with a Voltmeter - Charge the battery fully, then let it rest for 4 hours. If you're testing an automobile battery, take the vehicle for a 20+ minute drive, then shut off the engine for 4 hours. For other types of lead acid batteries, charge them all the way before letting them rest for 4 hours.[1]
- While it takes a bit of time, this process of charging and then resting the battery gives you the most accurate measurement with the voltmeter.
- Put on safety gear and turn on your digital voltmeter. While you won't be opening the battery cells to do this test, it's best to play it safe and put on thick gloves, long sleeves, and protective eyewear. Remove any dangling jewelry as well. Turn on the digital voltmeter by pressing its power button and watching for the display screen to show "0.0".[2]
- Buy a digital voltmeter at any auto parts or home improvement store, or online.
- Touch the voltmeter's positive probe to the battery's positive terminal. The digital voltmeter has 2 probes, one red and one black, connected to the voltmeter device. Place the metal tip of the red, positive (+) probe to the red, positive terminal of the lead acid battery.[3]
- If you're checking a vehicle battery, you don't have to disconnect the cables attached to the terminals. Just be sure you're touching the actual battery terminal, not part of the cable attached to it. In some vehicles, you may have to lift off a red plastic cap to access the positive terminal.
- Touch the voltmeter's negative probe to the battery's negative terminal. Follow the same process as before, but this time with the black, negative (-) probe touching the black, negative battery terminal. Do this while continuing to hold the positive probe to the positive terminal.[4]
- Always touch the positive probe to the positive terminal first, then touch the negative probe to the negative terminal. If you connect the negative probe first and the positive probe touches any conductive material, you may short out the battery—which may damage it or, in rare cases, cause a dangerous explosion.
- Check the display reading on the digital voltmeter. Under normal circumstances, a 12-volt lead acid automobile battery should give a reading between 12.4 and 12.7 volts. Other types of lead acid batteries have varying ideal voltage readings, so check your battery's product manual or look on the manufacturer's website.[5]
- If your vehicle battery has a voltage reading below 12.4, it's not holding a charge properly. In this case, either the battery itself is failing or it's being drained by a "power parasite" in your vehicle—for instance, a map light you left on or a tablet you left connected to a charger in the vehicle.
- Pull the negative and then positive probes away from the battery terminals once you've completed the test. This greatly reduces the possibility of accidentally creating a short circuit.
[Edit]Using a Hydrometer in an Open-Cell Battery - Charge the battery fully at least 8 hours before testing it. Lead acid batteries recharge in various manners based on their function and manner of installation. For a lead acid vehicle battery, drive the vehicle around for at least 20 minutes. For a lead acid battery connected to solar panels, let the battery charge fully on a sunny day.[6]
- If you're not sure how to charge the battery, check the product manual.
- Checking an open-cell lead acid battery—that is, a lead acid battery with caps that can be opened to access the liquid inside—with a battery hydrometer is most accurate when the battery is fully charged.
- Closed-cell lead acid batteries without the access caps cannot be tested this way. Use a digital voltmeter for a more basic checkup, or have an auto mechanic or other trained professional conduct more detailed testing.
- Put on safety gear such as—at minimum—gloves and goggles. Lead acid batteries contain dangerous sulfuric acid, so protective gear is a must. At the very least, put on thick rubber or PVC gloves and protective goggles. Even better, also put on a rubber or PVC work apron and heavy work boots.[7]
- Don't wear clothing made of natural fabrics like cotton, since sulfuric acid quickly dissolves these.
- Disconnect the battery and leave it that way for 8 hours. With your safety gear on, disconnect the cable connected to the negative (-) terminal and set the cable aside where it can't touch the battery. After that, disconnect the cable connected to the positive (+) terminal and set it aside. When setting aside the positive cable, make sure it does not touch any metal surface of the vehicle or other item powered by the battery—it still carries a small charge that may damage the vehicle/product's electronics system.[8]
- Car batteries typically require the use of a ratchet set or a crescent wrench to disconnect the battery cables. In other cases, the cables may be attached by snaps or pinch clamps that are easy to remove by hand. Refer to your product guide if you need specific instructions.
- Allowing the battery to rest while disconnected for 8 hours makes for a more accurate test. If you don't have that amount of time, try to wait at least 2 hours.
- Remove the caps on top of the disconnected battery. If you took off your safety gear while waiting, be sure to put it back on first! Then, identify the series of access caps on top of the battery—there may be 1, 2, 3, or more, depending on the battery type, so check the product manual for confirmation. In most cases, the caps can be removed by unscrewing them counterclockwise by hand.[9]
- Set the caps aside so you don't lose them.
- Each cap corresponds to a separate chamber of liquid (or "cell") inside the battery. Each cell is connected in series to make up the battery's total voltage—for instance, 3 cells, each at 2 volts, for a total of 6 volts.
- Squeeze the bulb of a battery hydrometer and put the open end into the liquid. Choose any of the cell openings for this task. The hydrometer is a bit like a turkey baster—squeezing the bulb end before placing the open end in the liquid allows for the liquid to be drawn up into the tube section whenever you release your squeeze.[10]
- Look for battery hydrometers at auto parts retailers or online.
- Draw liquid into the hydrometer, squeeze it out, and repeat twice. Release your squeeze on the bulb to draw liquid from the cell up into the tube of the hydrometer. Then, without lifting the hydrometer from the cell, squeeze the bulb again to release the liquid back into the cell. Repeat the entire process 2 more times without removing the hydrometer's open end from the cell.[11]
- You're essentially "warming up" the hydrometer at this point—that is, acclimating it to the temperature of the liquid inside the battery.
- Draw in liquid again and identify the location of the hydrometer's float. Suck up liquid from the same cell yet again, but this time keep it in the tube instead of squeezing it right back out. Locate the "float"—which, as the name indicates, is a piece within the tube that floats when liquid is inside it. The location of the float determines the specific gravity reading you'll use.[12]
- Hold the hydrometer completely upright to get the most accurate reading with the float.
- Write down the specific gravity and temperature measurements. Using the specific gravity scale markings on the hydrometer tube, write down the measurement that corresponds with the location of the float. Find the separate temperature gauge in the tube—which looks and works a bit like an old-style mercury thermometer—and write down the temperature measurement as well.[13]
- The float might, for instance, line up with the marker labeled 1.270 on the tube. This is the specific gravity of the liquid. Water has a specific gravity of 1.000. Some hydrometers, however, omit the decimal point and will read 1270 for the battery liquid and 1000 for water. Specific gravity is not measured in units (like grams or milliliters) because it is a density ratio between a chosen liquid and water.
- Release the liquid from the hydrometer back into the battery cell once you've recorded your measurements.
- Test the liquid temperature separately if you can't use the hydrometer. If your hydrometer does not have a temperature gauge, aim an infrared no-touch thermometer (the type available at kitchen supply stores) at the liquid inside the cell. Write down the temperature reading alongside the specific gravity you recorded.[14]
- Never place a metal-tipped thermometer (or any other type of metal) into the cell, or you may cause an unpredictable—and potentially dangerous—chemical reaction.
- Adjust your specific gravity reading based on the liquid's temperature. The specific gravity chart for lead acid batteries assumes a liquid temperature of . That said, the liquid in your battery probably isn't at this ideal temperature. For a general adjustment, add 0.040 to the specific gravity reading for every 10 °F (6 °C) above the ideal temperature, and subtract the same amount for every 10 °F (6 °C) below the ideal.[15]
- For instance, if your specific gravity reading was 1.270 and the temperature reading was , add 0.040 to get 1.310 as the adjusted specific gravity.
- Your battery manufacturer may provide more specific temperature adjustments, possibly including basic to somewhat complex mathematical formulas. Consult the battery's product guide or check the manufacturer's website.
- Take readings from the battery's other cells as well. This isn't absolutely necessary, but you'll get a better grasp of your battery's overall health if you check each cell individually. Follow the same process as before and remember to adjust the specific gravity reading based on temperature.[16]
- If the readings you get aren't very close, your battery may need to be repaired or replaced. In a healthy battery, all the cell specific gravity readings should be within 0.050 (and ideally much closer) of each other.
- Compare your readings to a depth of discharge (DoD) table. This type of table shows what the specific gravity reading for your particular type of battery should be at various stages (or "depths") of discharge. Since you fully charged your battery before testing it, your specific gravity readings should match those listed for the 0% DoD level. If your readings match the numbers at the 20%, 30%, 60%, etc. DoD levels, your battery is not functioning at full health.[17]
- For the most accurate information, check the manual for your battery, vehicle, or other battery-powered product for a specific DoD table. Otherwise, find a general DoD table online, such as at https://rimstar.org/renewnrg/measure_battery_electrolyte_specific_gravity_with_hydrometer.htm.
- For example, the DoD table might show that a 12-volt battery should have a specific gravity of 1.265 at 0% DoD. At 30% DoD, that figure might instead be 1.218, and at 50%, it might be 1.190.
- Re-cap the battery cells and rinse out the hydrometer. Once you're finished testing the battery, screw the caps back onto each cell compartment. Then, either reconnect the cables to the terminals (positive first, then negative) if you're keeping the battery, or replace it with a new one. Clean the hydrometer by dipping it into a cup of distilled water and filling and emptying the tube several times.[18]
- Keep your safety gear on while re-capping the battery and cleaning the hydrometer. Rinse the used distilled water down the drain, rinse out and dispose of the cup, and rinse out the sink basin with clean water.
- If you have some engineering training and specialized equipment—namely, a source measure unit (SMU) and a computer with specialized software—you can more fully test the health of a closed-cell battery. Attach the SMU to the battery and the computer, then set it to drain the battery slowly (often over a period of 5 hours) and send continuous data to the computer to be graphed. The resulting data demonstrates whether the battery is discharging properly.[19]
[Edit]References |
| How to Get Rid of Foot Fungus at Home Posted: 25 Aug 2020 09:00 AM PDT Foot fungus is a general term for the many different fungal infections you could catch on your feet or toenails. The most well-known type is athlete's foot. These infections are very common, so don't be alarmed if you notice some redness, crusty or cracked skin, or itching on your foot. Some over-the-counter antifungal cream is usually all you'll need to clear the rash up. You could also try home remedies, although these are usually not as effective as conventional treatments. If home care doesn't work for you, then visit a podiatrist for prescription medication that should kill all the fungus and treat the rash.
[Edit]Effective Medical Treatments If you notice a rash on your foot, first see if some OTC antifungal cream helps. If not, then visit a podiatrist for further options. In either case, fungal infections can be persistent, so you'll have to continue treatment for 2-4 weeks at least to make sure the rash is completely gone. Be patient and stick with the treatment until the rash heals. - Apply an over-the-counter antifungal cream 1-2 times daily. The most effective at-home treatment for foot fungus is an over-the-counter antifungal cream. Go to the pharmacy and look for creams containing miconazole, clotrimazole, terbinafine, or tolnaftate, which are usually the most effective. Rub the cream on the rash and surrounding skin 1-2 times per day, according to the product instructions.[1]
- It's best to apply the cream right after washing your feet so it can stay on for as long as possible.
- You could also use antifungal sprays or powders, but they usually don't cover the rash as well as creams and ointments.[2]
- Trim your nails before applying the cream for nail fungus. Regular OTC antifungal cream can also work for nail fungus, but it's more difficult for the cream to reach underneath your nails. If you have nail fungus, trimming your nails can help relieve pain and help the cream reach the rash better. Wet your nails to soften them and trim them back with a nail clipper. Then apply the cream normally.[3]
- Creams and sprays are overall less effective for nail fungus because the cream can't reach underneath the nail. You'll probably need oral medication for nail infections.
- Cover the skin around your nail as well so the rash doesn't spread further.
- Clean the nail clipper when you're done and don't share it with anyone else. This could spread the rash.
- Continue applying the cream for 2 weeks after the rash disappears. OTC creams usually clear the rash within 1-2 weeks, but don't stop applying the cream when the rash improves. Continue applying the cream daily to make sure all the fungus is dead. If not, the rash could come back.[4]
- Confirm these directions on the product box. Don't continue applying the cream if the product says not to.
- Visit a podiatrist for prescription cream if the rash doesn't go away. If you've been using OTC treatments for 2 weeks and the rash hasn't improved, then don't worry. You probably just need a stronger medication. Make an appointment with a podiatrist for an exam. They will probably prescribe a prescription-strength cream. Apply the cream exactly as the doctor tells you to so the rash clears up.[5]
- The instructions for prescription-strength creams are usually very similar to OTC ones. You'll probably have to apply it to the rash and surrounding area 1-2 times per day for 1-2 weeks.
- Take oral antifungal medication if the rash doesn't respond to cream. If the fungus doesn't respond to topical treatments, or if it's under your nail, you might need an oral medication instead of cream. You usually have to take these medications for 6-12 weeks to make sure the infection is all cleared. Follow your doctor's instructions for taking the medication correctly.[6]
- Some oral antifungal medications are terbinafine (Lamisil) and itraconazole (Sporanox). The type that your doctor prescribes depends on the type of infection you have.
- Oral antifungals could cause liver problems, so your doctor may order periodic blood tests to make sure the levels in your system are correct. They may not recommend oral medication if you have any type of liver disease or damage.
[Edit]Unverified Home Remedies There are many home remedies for foot fungus floating around the internet, but most of them don't have much science to prove that they're effective. The following remedies do show some success in treating foot fungus. However, these are generally not as effective as medical treatments. If you've been treating your rash with home treatments for a week and don't see any improvement, then switch to an OTC antifungal cream instead. - Rub 50% tea tree oil cream onto the rash. Tea tree oil is an essential oil with antibacterial and antifungal properties. It shows some success in treating athlete's foot. Get a cream containing a 50% concentration of tea tree oil and rub it onto your rash twice a day. Continue this treatment for 2-4 weeks until the rash clears up.[7]
- If you get undiluted tea tree oil, dilute to a 50% concentration. Use a carrier oil like jojoba or olive. Then mix 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) of carrier oil with 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) of the tree oil for a 50% mixture.[8]
- Weaker concentrations of tea tree oil might help reduce the rash, but generally won't kill the fungus completely.[9]
- Try ajoene extract to kill the fungus. Ajoene is a compound in garlic that small studies show can kill the athlete's foot fungus. Get a 1% concentration of ajoene oil or gel. Rub this onto the rash twice a day for 1-2 weeks to see if this works for you.[10]
- You might also be able to use raw garlic as an antifungal treatment.[11] However, it's uncertain if raw garlic works specifically against foot fungus.
- Soak your feet in vinegar to kill bacteria and odor. This is another popular home remedy for athlete's foot. It hasn't been widely studied, but some people find it helpful.[12] Mix 2 parts of warm water with 1 part of white or apple cider vinegar. Then soak your feet for 15-20 minutes. This might kill the fungus causing your rash.[13]
- Only do a vinegar soak once a week to avoid irritating your skin. You'll probably have to use other treatments during the rest of the week.
- Vinegar is acidic and might cause some burning or irritation if you have cuts on your feet.
[Edit]Preventing the Fungus from Spreading Foot fungus, especially athlete's foot, can be very contagious. Whether you're using OTC or prescription treatments, you still have to take steps to prevent the fungus from spreading until the rash clears completely. These tips can keep the fungus contained and might even help the rash heal faster. - Wash your feet with soap and water twice a day. Regular washing can prevent the fungus from spreading and help the rash heal faster. Wash your feet with soap and warm water. Make sure you get in between your toes, because fungus often starts there. Then rinse all the soap off. Repeat this twice per day until the rash clears.[14]
- Remember to wash your hands after cleaning your feet. Otherwise, you could spread the infection.
- This is also an important general practice to prevent foot fungus from starting in the first place, so wash your feet every time you bathe.
- Dry your feet whenever they're wet. Sweaty feet are the perfect environment for fungus to grow in. Whenever your feet get wet or sweaty, use a towel and dry them off. Remember to get in between your toes, which is where fungus usually hides.[15]
- To dry your feet further, you could rub some talcum powder onto your feet.[16]
- Only use the towel once and then wash it. Otherwise, you could spread the fungus.
- Change your socks and shoes every day. Fungus can live in your socks and shoes, so don't wear the same ones every day. Change your socks twice a day, especially if your feet get sweaty. Also, try not to wear the same pair of shoes more than 1 day in a row so they dry out before you wear them again.[17]
- You could also sprinkle talcum or antifungal powder into your shoes to dry them out and kill any leftover fungus.[18]
- Take off your shoes when you're at home. Keeping your shoes on provides a good environment for the fungus to grow and spread. When you get home, take your shoes off so your feet can dry and cool off.[19]
- If you take your socks off, be sure to wear a pair of sandals instead. You could spread the fungus if you walk around barefoot.
- Avoid touching the rash. Foot fungus is contagious and you could spread it around if you touch the rash. The rash might be annoying any itchy, but do your best to resist touching it. This prevents it from spreading and also helps the rash heal faster.[20]
- If you do accidentally touch the rash, wash your hands right away so you don't spread it.
- Stay away from public pools and showers until the rash clears. These are some of the most common places that foot fungus spreads. Be considerate of other patrons and avoid these areas until your rash clears up.[21]
- If you do have to go to a place like this, don't walk around barefoot. Always wear sandals or some other footwear so you don't spread the fungus.
- Use your own towels and personal items. Sharing towels, nail clippers, shoes, and other personal items can definitely spread the rash to other people. Don't share any personal items with others in your home to keep the rash contained.[22]
- Using your own personal items is generally a good practice, even if you don't have athlete's foot. It prevents people from accidentally spreading fungus or bacteria to each other.
[Edit]Medical Takeaways Foot fungus is an annoying condition, but it's very common and treatable. In many cases, you can clear the rash yourself at home with some OTC antifungal cream. If this doesn't work, then visit a podiatrist for some additional treatment options. In any case, with the right treatment, your foot fungus rash should clear up completely within a few weeks.
- Lower your risk of contracting foot fungus by keeping your feet cool and dry. Additionally, avoid walking around barefoot in gyms, pools, and showers.[23]
[Edit]Warnings - There are other home remedies for foot fungus floating around the internet, including using mouthwash or VapoRub. While these might not be harmful, there's no evidence that they work. Stick with verified treatments instead.[24]
[Edit]References |
| How to Make a Dust Ruffle Posted: 25 Aug 2020 01:00 AM PDT A dust ruffle is a type of bed skirt that hangs down with a slight wave, giving your bed a more cute, frilly look. Buying a dust ruffle can be a pain, especially if you want to customize your own. You can choose your favorite fabric and spend the afternoon putting together a dust ruffle on your own to make it perfect for your bedroom. [Edit]Measuring and Cutting the Fabric - Measure all 4 sides of your bed, then add those numbers together. Use a tape measure to measure the length of all 4 sides of your bed. Add these numbers together to get the total length that you'll need for your dust ruffle.[1]
- An average twin bed is . Multiply each number by 2 and add them together to get of fabric.
- Full beds are usually . Multiply each number by 2 and add them together to get of fabric.
- Queen beds are usually . Multiply each number by 2 and add them together to get of fabric.
- King beds are usually . Multiply each number by 2 and add them together to get of fabric.
- If you have a headboard, you don't need to include that side in your measurement since the dust ruffle won't cover that area of the bed.
- Multiply your measurement by 2 to get your fabric length. Since you'll be ruffling the top of the dust ruffle, your fabric will shrink. In order to get the correct length of fabric, take your length and width measurement of the bed and multiply it by 2 before you start cutting.[2]
- For example, if your total measurement was , multiply that by 2 to get .
- Measure from the mattress to the floor and add for the width. The dust ruffle will sit right underneath your mattress and should just touch the top of the floor. Use your tape measure again to figure out this distance so you know how wide your fabric needs to be.[3]
- Most beds are about off the floor which means you'd need of width for the fabric, but it's always good to double check.
- Cut a strip of fabric with the length and width that you measured. Use the measurement from the bed to the floor plus to figure out the width of the strip, and use the length of your bed frame that you multiplied by 2 to get the length. Use sharp scissors to cut out your fabric.[4]
- If you don't have a long enough piece of fabric, cut out 2 to 4 strips of fabric with an additional on all sides. Then, create a seam allowance of on the connecting sides with the right sides facing out. You can use a straight stitch to keep them together and make one long strip.
- If the distance from your bed to the floor is , cut a strip of fabric that's wide.
[Edit]Hemming and Ruffling the Fabric - Sew a hem in the bottom of your fabric. With the wrong side of the fabric facing you, fold the bottom of fabric up and pin it in place. Run the fabric through your sewing machine with a straight stitch to hem the bottom for a neat look.[5]
- You can also choose fabric that's already hemmed on one side to avoid having to hem it yourself, in which case you only need to add to the height of your frame to the floor. Look for a drop cloth or a fabric curtain that already has a hem on the bottom.
- Sew the top edge from the edge with a long straight stitch. Set the stitch on your sewing machine to "long" so it creates large gaps in between each stitch. Run the top edge of your fabric through your sewing machine, leaving tails of thread about long on either side of the fabric.[6]
- If you have a ruffler foot on your sewing machine, you can use that instead.
- Stitch another line of straight stitch from the edge. This line of long straight stitches will run parallel to the line you have in place already. Try to leave tails of thread on either side of this line of stitching, too.[7]
- If you used a ruffler, you don't need to add another line of stitching.
- Tug at the top 2 threads to ruffle the top edge. Using gentle force, pull on the top 2 threads to crinkle the top edge of the fabric together. Move slowly inwards toward the center, moving from the left side to the right side so they are even.[8]
- If you go too quickly, the thread could pull out or break.
- If you used a ruffler, your fabric will already be bunched together so you don't need to pull any thread.
- Tie the loose threads together, then cut off the excess. Once your fabric is all ruffled, tie the ends of the thread on either side together in a tight knot. Use scissors to cut off the hanging bits of thread so they don't dangle.[9] uncut. Hem the cut edges with a straight stitch to keep them from fraying.}}
- Your dust ruffle should be about 1/2 of the length that it started as. For example, if your fabric was , it should now be . You may want to double check this before you finish your dust ruffle to make sure it fits all the way around your bed.
- Sew hooks and loops to your sheet and the dust ruffle. Hand sew or use a sewing machine to attach one side of a hook and loop fastener to your bed sheet and another side to the dust ruffle. Add 20 to 30 of these about apart around the entire length of your dust ruffle and sheet so you can attach them.[10]
- You can find hook and loop fasteners at most craft supply stores.
- It's better to start with fabric that's too long than fabric that's too short to give yourself some room for error.
- Wash your dust ruffle in the washer with the rest of your bedding.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Fabric
- Sewing machine
- Sewing pins
- Thread
[Edit]References |
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