| How to Use Light Umbrellas Posted: 29 Jul 2019 05:00 PM PDT Light umbrellas are a photographer's best friend when it comes to manipulating light sources to shoot different styles of photography. Before you start using a light umbrella, you need to decide which kind of umbrella best suits the style of photography you want to shoot. After you've decided on the right light umbrella, you need to know how to position it and adjust it to change the intensity of the light and shadows and get the perfect photo. EditChoosing a Light Umbrella - Choose a shoot-through umbrella if you want broader and softer light. Shoot-through umbrellas are ideal for shooting groups of people or larger areas. Shoot-through umbrellas are white so they allow light to pass through them.[1]
- A shoot-through umbrella will be positioned between your subject and the light source when shooting to diffuse the light before it reaches the subject.
- Use a reflective umbrella if you want to maximize light output and direct light. Reflective umbrellas bounce light back directly onto a subject and are best for creating a crisp picture, such as a portrait. Reflective umbrellas have a black top and a silver shade for reflecting light.[2]
- A reflective umbrella will be placed with a light source between it and the subject to bounce the light back directly onto the subject when you shoot.
- Select a convertible umbrella for the most versatile option. A convertible photography umbrella is white and has a removable black cover. These types of umbrellas can be used as both a shoot-through and a reflective umbrella and are ideal if you want to shoot a variety of subjects.[3]
- Keep in mind that bigger umbrellas are also more versatile and give you more control than smaller ones. A umbrella will give you the most control over your lighting, but they are also harder to travel with and harder to open in smaller spaces.
EditShooting with a Shoot-Through Umbrella - Face the shade of the umbrella away from your subject. Open and set up your umbrella so that the top is pointing at the subject. Make sure you have room to set up your light source on the other side of the umbrella.[4]
- Remember that shoot-through umbrellas are best when you want to achieve a soft glow instead of directly illuminating your subject. They work well for indoor photography.
- Aim your light source directly at your subject through the shade of the umbrella. Set up your light source on the other side of the umbrella from your subject. Turn on the light source and make sure that it fills up the underside of the umbrella evenly, with no light spilling over the edges.[5]
- Move your light source further back from the umbrella if there are any spots that are brighter than others. Adjust the distance between the umbrella and the light until you get even coverage.
- Adjust the angle of the light if you want to hide shadows. Change the angle at which the light source and umbrella are aimed at your subject to put the shadows behind the subject. This is especially important when you are shooting portraits.[6]
- You can play with the angles to create different shadow effects as well if you don't want to completely get rid of shadows.
EditUsing a Reflective Umbrella - Point the shade of the umbrella towards your subject. Open the umbrella and set it up so the top is pointing away from your subject. Make sure there is room between the umbrella and your subject to put your light source.[7]
- Remember that reflective umbrellas are best used to brighten a subject by bouncing light back onto it.
- Aim your light source away from your subject at the shade of the umbrella. Place your light source between your subject and the underside of the umbrella. Aim the light directly at the silver shade of the umbrella so it fills the entire underside evenly.[8]
- Adjust the distance between the light source and the shade if there are any spots that are brighter than others until it is reflected evenly.
- Change the position of the umbrella if you want to get stronger or softer light. Move the light closer to the umbrella to create stronger light and shadows. Move it further away to create softer light and shadows.[9]
- The center of the umbrella has the most light output. You can tilt the umbrella so that the center is aimed directly at your subject for the most direct light, or tilt it away so the sides are aimed at your subject for less direct light.
EditReferences
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| How to Mend a Crack in Pottery Posted: 29 Jul 2019 09:00 AM PDT Pottery is a subset under the broader category of ceramics, and it's commonly used for everyday life, like eating and drinking.[1] Pottery and ceramics in general can often be repaired using the same methods. So, the next time your favorite piece of pottery gets cracked or chipped, don't even consider throwing it out! Instead, try fixing it first. A 2-part epoxy adhesive can work wonders and repair broken pieces of pottery so that they look almost-new once again, and you can fill chips with an epoxy filler. EditUsing a 2-Part Epoxy - Fill a bucket with sand to use as a holder. This won't be necessary for all repairs, but it can be really helpful for items that need to be fixed while held at an angle. Nestle the broken pottery piece into the sand so that the cracked section is facing up. This enables you to use both hands to make the repairs.[2]
- If you don't have sand, you can also use rice to the same effect.
- You could also use a large pot, a shallow serving dish, or something similar to hold the sand as long as it's deep enough to fully support the pottery.
- Sand the edges of the chipped area to smooth ragged edges. Use fine sandpaper on both the edges of the broken-off piece and the main piece of pottery. Use a back and forth motion with light pressure until the edges are smooth.[3]
- If you're fixing a crack rather than a full break, you don't need to worry about sanding the piece at this point.
- Clean the broken pieces with denatured or 91% alcohol and cotton balls. Wipe down the edges both from the main piece of pottery and from the broken-off piece. Let them air dry completely afterwards before moving on to the next step.[4]
- This will ultimately help the adhesive do its job better as there won't be any dirt in the way.
- Mix a 2-part epoxy adhesive to fill cracks and reattach broken pieces. Squeeze the epoxy onto a non-porous disposable surface, like a thin sheet of plastic, and use a wooden or plastic stick to mix together the 2 components as quickly as possible. It'll start to harden after 3 to 4 minutes, so you need to work fast.[5]
- Some 2-part epoxies come in a container with a syringe that will distribute both parts equally for you. If yours doesn't come with that, disperse each part of the epoxy in lines so that you can gauge by eye that the 2 components are equal.
- Avoid using superglue for repairs. Superglue is very thin, and while it's strong, it won't protect your pottery from future breakages along the same cracks as well as epoxy will.
- Apply the epoxy to each edge of the broken sections. Use the wooden or plastic stick to line the edges of the piece of pottery as well as the cracked piece with epoxy. Don't worry about using too much or if it is going over the edges—you'll be able to remove that excess epoxy later on.[6]
- If you're working with a crack rather than a break, use a toothpick to apply the epoxy to the crack. Push the epoxy into the crack as far as you can, then squeeze the piece together so the crack adheres back together.
- Press the broken section back into place as firmly as you can. It's totally okay if epoxy squeezes out around the edges. Get it in line as perfectly as you can and hold it in place for about 30 seconds or as long as the epoxy directions instruct.[7]
- If you're worried about getting the adhesive onto your hands, wear a pair of rubber gloves while you work.
- If there is more than one piece to reattach, do one at a time rather than trying to do them all at once.
- If the pieces aren't staying together well because of the position of the pottery, use a small piece of modeling clay to pinch the edges together. It'll come right off once the piece has fully dried.
- Scrape away the excess epoxy with a razor after 20 minutes. You can use a razor blade or a sharp, flat-edged knife. Simply run the blade along the surface of the piece of pottery and slice off any sections of raised dried epoxy.[8]
- Most fast-acting epoxies take about 20 minutes to fully set, but always follow the instructions for whatever brand you're using.
- Sand over the edges of the cracks to make the surface perfectly smooth. Take 220-grit sandpaper and rub it very lightly over the sealed cracks on your piece of pottery. This will just finish the process so that there are absolutely no bumps or imperfections on your piece.[9]
- To double-check the surface run your thumb over the sealed cracks. The sensitivity in your finger should allow you to easily feel if there are more sections that need to be sanded.
- Paint over the repaired cracked lines if desired. You may not want to or need to do this since the epoxy dries clear, but if you think the cracks are too visible, use acrylic paint to cover those lines. Mix your colors carefully to get as close a match to the original color as possible.[10]
- You can also spray an acrylic gloss over the repaired area if the rest of the piece is shiny and you want the crack lines to be less noticeable.
EditFilling in Chipped Areas - Wipe off dust and grime from the pottery with a swab of alcohol. Use denatured alcohol or 91% alcohol and a cotton ball. Let the item air dry completely before moving on to the next step.[11]
- Don't skip this part even if you can't see any visible grime in the chip. There could be built up oils or residue that you can't see but that could get in the way of the epoxy adhering to the pottery.
- Use 2-part epoxy filler to fill in chips in your pottery. You can buy epoxy filler online or at a home improvement store. Most brands come with 2 components: the filler and a hardener that has to be mixed with the filler once it's ready to be used.[12]
- You could also use a polyester filler to the same effect. Polyester filler tends to be a little less expensive than epoxy filler, but the epoxy filler is usually a little easier to handle and takes less time to dry.
- Follow the instructions and mix the filler and the hardener. Squeeze out enough filler to completely fill the chip you're repairing. Read the directions to determine how much hardener you need to mix in with the filler so that it'll work properly.[13]
- Work quickly—the hardener will only allow you 4 to 5 minutes to work with the filler before it gets too stiff to be pliable still.
- For the best results, work in a room that is or warmer.
- Fill the chipped section completely with the prepared filler. Use a wooden or plastic stick to fill the entire chipped area with the filler. If needed, use a toothpick to poke it into small, hard to reach areas. It's okay if the filler isn't even with the rest of the pottery—you'll deal with that part later.[14]
- Even though the filler might resemble putty, don't use your hands to put it in place. Continue using your wooden or plastic stick.
- Shave off the excess filler with a razor once it has hardened. Epoxy filler can take anywhere from 2 hours to 2 days to harden, so make sure to check the manufacturer's instructions for that information. Use a razor or a straight-edged knife to shave off larger chunks of filler that is raised up over the surface of the piece of pottery.[15]
- Don't worry about getting the edges to look perfect with the razor. You'll use sandpaper later on to smooth things out.
- Sandpaper the filler-filled area to smooth it down. Take a piece of 220-grit sandpaper and gently rub it back and forth over the repaired area. Keep working at it until the surface is once again completely smooth.[16]
- Once you're done sanding, give the piece another wipe down with alcohol to get rid of any sandpaper and filler residue.
- Paint the repaired area with acrylic paint to match the original color. Because the filler is most likely brown or white, you'll probably want to paint it so it doesn't stick out as much from the rest of the piece. Take your time matching the color of the paint to the color of the piece of pottery.[17]
- Finish the piece with a coat of clear spray acrylic to give it a shine. This spray will add a layer of gloss to the repaired area, which will make it stand out from the rest of the piece less. If possible, use the spray outside or in a well-ventilated area so that you aren't bothered by the fumes. Let the gloss completely dry before you use or display the pottery piece again.[18]
- It generally takes acrylic spray about 12 to 24 hours to completely dry. Test it by patting it with your thumb—if it still feels tacky it needs more time.
- If your broken pottery is beyond repair, consider repurposing it into a piece of art. You could embed the pieces in wet concrete to make stepping stones for a garden, or you could even sand the pieces down and make jewelry out of them.
- Many types of ceramics can be fixed using these same methods for pottery, but items made of terra cotta, stone, or plaster will require a different method altogether.
EditThings You'll Need EditUsing a 2-Part Epoxy - Large bucket
- Sand
- 2-part epoxy adhesive
- Plastic or wooden stirrer for epoxy
- Non-porous surface to mix epoxy
- Tweezers (optional)
- Razor or flat-edged knife
- Toothpick
- 220-grit sandpaper
- Acrylic paint
- Paintbrushes
- Denatured or 91% alcohol
- Cotton balls
EditFilling in Chipped Areas - 2-part epoxy filler
- Denatured or 91% alcohol
- Cotton balls
- Razor or flat-edged knife
- 220-grit sandpaper
- Acrylic paint
- Paintbrushes
- Clear spray acrylic
EditRelated wikiHows EditReferences
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| How to Make Rice Milk Posted: 29 Jul 2019 01:00 AM PDT Rice milk is a delicious alternative to dairy milk! These simple recipes take less than 5 minutes to make and only require staple pantry ingredients. If you want a traditional rice milk taste, use white rice to make your milk. If you prefer a more earthy taste, blend brown rice with water to make the milk. Both of these options are quick, easy, and yummy! EditIngredients EditMaking White Rice Milk - of water
- 1 cup (200 grams) of cooked white rice
Makes 4 cups of rice milk EditCreating Brown Rice Milk - of water
- ½ cup (100 grams) of cooked brown rice
- 4 dates
Makes 2 cups of rice milk EditMaking White Rice Milk - Measure the rice and water into a blender. Add of water and 1 cup (200 grams) of cooked white rice into your blender. For the purest rice milk, use filtered water, as this has very few added chemicals or minerals in it.[1]
- Both a food processor or a smoothie maker will work for making rice milk. The more powerful your blender is – the smoother your rice milk will be.
- Blend the ingredients for 1 minute. Turn the blender onto the highest setting and wait 1 minute for it to blend the rice and water into a smooth liquid. If the liquid is still a little lumpy after 1 minute, blend it for another minute or until it is smooth.[2]
- Avoid using other kitchen appliances while you are using the blender, as the high wattage required can cause a fuse to blow in your multi-box.
- Store the milk in your fridge and stir it before you drink it. Rice milk tends to taste best cool; however, it can also be enjoyed straight from the blender. If you want cool milk, leave it in the fridge for 30 minutes. Stir the milk vigorously before you drink it to ensure that the water and blended rice are fully combined.[3]
- Keep the milk for up to 5 days.[4]
EditCreating Brown Rice Milk - Add the water, brown rice, and dates into your blender. Measure of water and ½ cup (100 grams) of cooked brown rice into the blender and then add 4 dates. For best results, use a high-speed blender; however, a food processor will also work.[5]
- The dates help to give the milk a slightly sweeter taste, if you want a sugar-free milk, simply leave them out.
- Blend the mixture until it turns into a smooth liquid. Turn the blender on and wait for the rice to disintegrate into the water to form a milky liquid. This normally takes about 2 minutes. The longer that you blend the rice and water – the lighter the consistency of your milk.[6]
- Pour the liquid through a fine sieve to remove any lumps, if desired. The thick texture of brown rice means that sometimes small chunks remain after you have blended it. If you like extra smooth rice milk, simply place a fine sieve over a wide-necked bottle and slowly pour the liquid through the strainer.[7]
- Compost the leftover rice chunks or throw them in the trash.
- Enjoy the rice milk fresh or keep it in the fridge for up to 4 days. Pour the delicious rice milk into a cup and drink it fresh. If you prefer a cooler taste, place it in the fridge to cool down for half an hour. If you notice the water sitting on the top of the milk after it has been in the fridge, simply stir it to recombine the rice and water.[8]
- If the milk starts to smell bad, this indicates that it has gone off and should be thrown away.
EditThings You'll Need EditMaking White Rice Milk EditCreating Brown Rice Milk - Measuring cups
- Blender
- Fine sieve
- Wide-necked bottle
EditRelated wikiHows EditReferences EditQuick Summary
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