| How to Restore Faded Clothes Posted: 10 Jul 2019 05:00 PM PDT It can be really frustrating to buy colorful clothing only to see it fade as soon as you wash it. Luckily, there are a few different ways you can restore the vibrant color to your garments. Sometimes, detergent can build up on laundry, making it look dull. In that case, washing your clothes with salt or vinegar may help your clothing look like new again. If the fading is from normal washing and wear, dyeing the garment back to the original color can give it a new life! You may also be able to restore your clothes with some common household supplies, like baking soda, coffee, or hydrogen peroxide. EditRestoring Brightness with Salt - Place your faded clothes and regular detergent in the washing machine. If you have clothes that seem to have faded after just a few washes, the culprit may be detergent buildup. Adding salt to your regular wash can help break up that buildup, making your clothes look like new again.[1]
- Powdered laundry detergent is more likely to leave behind residue than liquid detergent.
- Add 1/2 cup (150 g) of salt to the wash cycle. Once you've placed your clothes and detergent in the washing machine, pour about 1/2 cup (150 g) of salt into the drum. In addition to restoring colors, it can also help prevent new clothes from fading in the first place.[2]
- You can add salt to every load of laundry, if you'd like.
- Regular table salt or ultra-fine pickling salts work well for this, but avoid coarse-ground sea salt, as it may not dissolve fully in the washing machine.
- Salt is also an effective stain remover, especially on blood, mildew, and sweat stains.[3]
- Dry your clothing as usual. After your clothes are finished washing, take them out and check the color. If you're satisfied with it, you can either air dry them or place them in your dryer. If they still look faded, try washing them in vinegar, instead.[4]
- You may need to redye your clothes if the color has washed out over time.
EditUsing Vinegar to Combat Detergent Buildup - Add of white vinegar to your washing machine. If you have a top-loading machine, you can pour the vinegar directly into the drum, or you can add it to the fabric softener dispenser if you have a front-loading washer. The vinegar will help break up any detergent or minerals left behind by hard water, so your clothes will look brighter.[5]
- The vinegar will also prevent this buildup in the first place, so it's a great way to keep your clothes color-fast while they're still new.[6]
- Wash the clothes in cool water on a normal cycle. Place your faded clothes into your washing machine, add laundry detergent, and turn on the machine. In many cases, soaking your clothes in vinegar then washing them is all it will take to get them looking brighter.[7]
- Choose the cycle that's appropriate for the clothes you're brightening. For instance, if you're washing items made from a delicate material like silk or lace, you'd want to use a gentle wash. For more durable fabrics like cotton or denim, a normal wash is fine.
- Air-dry your clothes or place them in the dryer. The vinegar will wash out of your clothing during the rinse cycle, so your laundry shouldn't smell like vinegar when it comes out of the wash. You can either hang the clothes to dry or place them in the dryer, depending on the instructions on the care label or how you normally prefer to dry your clothes.
- If a little of the smell does linger, either hang the item to dry outside or put a fabric softener sheet in the dryer. The smell should be gone by the time it's dry.
- If your clothes still look faded, the dye might have washed out, so you may need to dye the clothes instead.
EditDyeing Clothes to Refresh the Color - Check the care label to determine if the garment is a dyeable fabric. Some fabrics accept dye better than others, so before you try to restore your clothing by dyeing it, take a look at the tag inside the item to see what it's made of. If the item is made from at least 60% natural fibers, like cotton, silk, linen, ramie, or wool, or if it's made from rayon or nylon, it will probably dye well.[8]
- Clothing made from a blend of natural and synthetic fibers may not look as dark when they're dyed as clothing made from an all-natural fabric.
- If the garment is made from acrylic, spandex, polyester, or metallic fibers, or if the tag says "Dry Clean Only," it probably will not take dye well, if at all.
- Choose a dye as close to the original color as possible. If you want your garment to look as good as new, take it with you to a big box store or a craft or fabric store to choose the dye. Try to find the closest match you can, as this will give you the boldest, most natural-looking result.[9]
- Protect your skin and work area from the dye. Cover your workspace with newspaper, tarp, or trash bags, so if any of the dye splashes, it won't stain your table, counter, or floors. In addition, have some old rags or paper towels nearby just in you need to quickly clean up any spills. Then, put on old clothes and thick gloves so your clothes and skin don't get stained.[10]
- It's important to protect your hands, because coming into contact with dye can irritate your skin.[11]
- Fill a container with hot water that's about . Most household water heaters are set to a maximum temperature of , although some are set to , so the hottest water from your tap should be sufficient. However, if you want hotter water, you can heat it on the stove to just below boiling, or about . Pour the water into a large pot, bucket, or tub, or fill a top-loading machine with water on the hottest setting.[12]
- You'll need about of water for every of clothing.
- A bucket or pot is good for smaller items like thin tops, accessories, and children's clothes. Use a plastic tub or washing machine for larger items like sweaters and jeans.[13]
- Most articles of clothing weigh about 0.5-1 lb (0.22-0.4 kg).[14]
- Dissolve the dye and salt in a small cup of water, then add them to the bath. Follow the instructions on the dye to determine exactly how much you'll need. Generally, though, you'll need about a 1/2 bottle of dye for every of fabric. To help the dye set better, add 1/2 cup (150 g) of salt for every of fabric you're dyeing. Stir the dye and salt into a small cup of warm water until they're completely dissolved. Then, add the dye and salt mixture to your larger container of water and use a metal long-handled spoon or tongs to stir everything together.[15]
- For easy cleanup, consider using a dowel or a plastic spoon to stir the dye in the smaller container. That way, you can just throw it away when you're finished.
- Add the clothes and soak them for 30-60 minutes, stirring continuously. Place the clothing into the dye bath and use your spoon or tongs to push them down under the water, ensuring they're completely saturated. To help the dye soak evenly into the fabric, stir the clothing around at least every 5-10 minutes. That helps prevent any folds or bunches in the fabric from blocking the dye.[16]
- The more you stir, the more even the dye will be. Some people prefer to stir constantly, while others find it's sufficient to just swish the clothing around every few minutes.
- Take the clothing out of the dye and rinse it thoroughly in cold water. Once the recommended time has passed, or when you think the garment looks dark enough, use your tongs or spoon to carefully lift the clothing out of the dye bath. Transfer it to a bathtub or a sink, and rinse the item under cold running water until the water runs mostly clear.[17]
- Remember, the color will look darker when the garment is wet, so take that into account when you're checking to see if it's ready!
- Clean your sink or tub immediately so the dye doesn't stain it!
- Wash the garment by itself in the washing machine on a cold cycle. If you're satisfied with the color of your clothing, turn the garment inside out and put it in the washing machine. Even though you've already rinsed out much of the dye by hand, more will come out in the wash, so don't put anything else in the washing machine, or it will get stained by dye as well. Then, run the washing machine on a small, cold cycle.[18]
- Turning the garment inside-out when you wash it may help preserve its color.
- Dry the garment to see the final color. You can hang dry your item or you can place it in the dryer, depending on the fabric and your personal preference. Either way, when it's finished, examine the clothing to ensure the dye went on evenly and didn't leave any streaks or lighter areas, and that you're happy with the final result.[19]
- If you need to, you can dye the clothing again.
EditTrying Other Household Items - Try adding baking soda to your washing machine to brighten white clothing. Baking soda is another household staple that can help make your clothes look bright, and it's especially effective on white fabric. Just add about 1/2 cup (90 g) to the drum of your washer along with your clothes and regular detergent.[20]
- Baking soda is also a great way to deodorize your clothing![21]
- Refresh black clothes by soaking them in coffee or tea. If you want an easy, inexpensive way to keep your dark clothes looking rich and new, brew a of very strong black tea or coffee. Place the clothes in the washing machine and wash them as normal, but stay close. When the rinse cycle starts, open the lid of the washing machine and pour in the coffee or tea. Let the cycle finish, then hang your clothing to dry.[22]
- Drying black clothes in the dryer can cause them to fade more quickly.
- Brighten your clothing by adding black pepper to the wash. Place your clothes in the washing machine just as you normally would, then add 2-3 tsp (8-12 g) of ground black pepper in with your clothes. This will help dispel some of the buildup, and the flakes of pepper will wash away in the rinse cycle.[23]
- Wash your white clothes in hydrogen peroxide to brighten them. If your whites are looking faded and dingy after a few washes, it can be tempting to bleach them, but this can weaken and discolor the fabric over time. Instead, add of hydrogen peroxide to your laundry detergent, then wash your clothes as usual.[24]
- You can combine some of these techniques for more brightening power, like adding both salt and vinegar to your wash.
- Sort your clothes by color, turn them inside-out, and wash them in cold water to help prevent them from fading.
- Do not attempt this on clothes marked as "dry clean only." These fabrics are delicate and typically do not accept dye well.
EditThings You'll Need EditRestoring Brightness with Salt EditUsing Vinegar to Combat Detergent Buildup - White vinegar
- Detergent
- Salt (optional)
EditDyeing Clothes to Refresh the Color - Dye
- Large container or washing machine
- Hot water
- Tarp, dropcloth, or garbage bags
- Old clothes and thick gloves
- Small cup
- Salt
- Dowel or plastic spoon
- Long-handled spoon or tongs
EditTrying Other Household Items - Baking soda (optional)
- Coffee or tea (optional)
- Black pepper (optional)
- Hydrogen peroxide (optional)
EditReferences
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| How to Make Artificial Flowers Posted: 10 Jul 2019 09:00 AM PDT Making your own artificial flowers is a great way to create long-lasting blooms that won't cost you a fortune. You'll need coffee filters, tissue paper, or fabric to make simple ruffled flowers that will brighten any space. If you'd like to make realistic looking flowers, use colored materials and arrange the petals so they look natural. Your artificial flowers will look beautiful in a bouquet or on your next craft project! EditShaping Coffee Filters into Flowers - Place coffee filters into dye if you'd like to make colorful flowers. Squirt about of acrylic or latex paint into a large pan or bowl and stir in of water until they're combined. Then, stir in of water and submerge up to 20 round coffee filters of any size. Keep the filters in the dye for 2 to 3 minutes for pale flowers or up to 15 minutes for bold colored flowers.[1]
- Keep in mind that if you use larger coffee filters, you can make bigger flowers.
- If you're making white flowers, you can skip dying the coffee filters.
- Remove the filters and dry them in a single layer. Once the filters are the color you want, use tongs or your fingers to lift them out of the paint. Let the excess paint drip back into the pan and lay the filters on a wire rack. They'll dry faster in a single layer so don't stack the filters on the rack.[2]
- The filters should dry within 20 or 30 minutes, depending on your climate.
- Take a filter and cut it into a spiral. Spread 1 of the dried coffee filters flat and use sharp scissors to make it into a spiral shape. The spiral strip should be about wide as you cut your way to the center of the filter.[3]
- Once you've finished cutting the spiral, you'll be able to stretch the ends of the filter to make a long skinny strip.
- Cut a piece of tape and stick the center of the spiral on it. Tear off a long piece of masking tape and lay it sticky side up on your work surface. Then, place the end of the filter strip about from the tape's end.[4]
- You should use the rounded end of the filter so it will become the middle of your flower.
- In order to make a simple stem for the flower, consider using green masking tape.
- Pleat and gather the filter across the bottom half of the masking tape. To pleat the paper filter, just fold it over onto itself so it ribbons slightly. Press it down onto the bottom half of the tape so it gathers. Then, keep folding as you move down the tape.[5]
- Leave space along the top of the masking tape so you'll be able to wrap and seal the stem of the flower.
- You'll now have a ruffled strip of filter across the length of the masking tape.
- Stick the end of the tape on a straw and wrap the strip around it. Press the tip of a straw on the bottom end of the tape that doesn't have the ruffled filter. Then, wrap the tape around it and keep rolling the straw on the tape until you reach the end of the strip. This will form the ruffled filter flower.[6]
- If you don't want to use a straw, you can use a thin strip of wire or a plastic stem from old artificial flowers.
- Wrap green tape around the straw to create the stem. Cut off a long piece of green masking tape and stick it near the base of the flower. Then, wrap the tape diagonally as stick it around the entire straw. This will make the flower's stem.[7]
- You can keep creating flowers with the other dyed filters you made.
EditCreating Tissue Paper Flowers - Cut out 10 squares of tissue paper. You can make the squares any size you like, but make them as wide as you'd like the flower to be. For example, you can make the squares for a medium-sized flower.[8]
- If you'd like to make more than 1 flower, cut 10 squares for each flower you want to create.
- To save time, you can stack several layers of tissue when you cut the squares.
- Stack the squares and staple the center. Ensure that the sides of the tissue paper squares are lined up before you staple them together. The layers of tissue paper will become the frilled petals of your flower.[9]
- Cut the tissue paper square into a circle. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut a circle around the stapled center of your tissue paper. Make the circle as wide as you want the flower to be.[10]
- If you'd like to be precise, you can trace a circle before you begin cutting.
- Separate each layer and pinch them up in the center. Peel up 1 layer of tissue paper at a time and scrunch it away from the staple in the middle. You can be firm as you gather each layer because this will make the ruffled texture of the petals.[11]
- Once you've finished gathering the layers near the center, it will look like a small flower that's starting to open.
- Unfurl the petals to shape your tissue paper flower. Use your thumbs to gently tug the layers of tissue paper apart. Work across the entire flower so it fills out and looks like a rounded blossom.[12]
- You can keep the bottom layer of tissue paper flat so it's easier to attach your flower to a bouquet or project.
EditMaking Fabric Flowers - Gather silk or polyester fabric. Choose fabric in your favorite color or use several colors in different hues to make realistic looking flowers. For example, choose peach, coral, and yellow to create a vibrant colored flower.[13]
- If you're using polyester fabric, consider working with satin, organza, acetate lining, lace, or a combination of these.
- Cut 24 fabric petals in different sizes to make 1 flower. You'll need to cut bean-shaped petals in 4 sizes for your flower. Specifically, cut 6 petals out of silk or polyester for each of these bean-shaped sizes:[14]
- Light a candle and use the flame to sear the edges of each petal. To create realistic looking petals, hold each petal close enough to the candle's flame so the edges curl slightly, but don't burn. Rotate the petal slowly to sear every side. If you're working with thick fabric, you'll need to hold it closer to the flame than if you're working with a delicate fabric.[15]
- Pay attention to how close you have to put the fabric to the flame and move the fabric closer if it's taking too long.
- Gather 1 of the smallest petals and stitch the bottom to secure it. Hold the petal horizontally and roll it tightly while you hold the bottom. This will make the center of your flower. Keep the petal in place by double threading a needle and making a few whip stitches across the bottom layers.[16]
- Wrap another small petal around the center petal and stitch the bottom in place. Put 1 more of the smallest petals around the petal that you just stitched. You should keep holding the petals tightly by the base and so your flower can begin to take shape.[17]
- Remember to whip stitch the bottom again to secure the new petal.
- Continue to sew on the petals from smallest to largest. Once you've attached all of the smallest petals, start adding the next smallest size until you've added all of them to the flower. Keep adding the petals so you use the largest petals for the outside of the flower.[18]
- You should continue to whip stitch the base of each petal so your flower doesn't unravel.
- Tie off the thread and unfurl the petals. Tie a knot at the base of your flower and trim the thread. Then, use your fingers to gently pull back the petals at the top of your flower to make them look like they're blossoming.
- You can now attach the flowers to stems for a bouquet or hot glue them onto bows or wreaths.
- To make a beautiful bouquet, arrange several types of artificial flowers and wrap the stems with a pretty ribbon.
- For a simple bouquet, try making a bouquet out of paper flowers.
EditThings You'll Need EditShaping Coffee Filters into Flowers - Scissors
- Coffee filters
- Large pan or bowl
- Spoon
- Acrylic or latex craft paint
- Plastic fork
- Drinking straws
- Masking tape
- Straw
- Wire rack
- Tongs, optional
EditCreating Tissue Paper Flowers - Scissors
- Tissue paper
- Stapler
- Needle and thread
EditMaking Fabric Flowers - Scissors
- Candle
- Needle and thread
- Silk or polyester fabric
EditRelated wikiHows EditReferences EditQuick Summary
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| How to Repair Canvas Posted: 10 Jul 2019 01:00 AM PDT It can be heartbreaking when you notice a tear in an art canvas. Likewise, it can be disheartening to see damage to canvas that's exposed to the outdoors, whether it's used for an awning, a patio umbrella, a camping tent, a sail on a sailboat, or an outdoor cover. But you can repair most of these rips and tears at home by yourself! Holes in art canvases can be patched up with acid-free glue and another piece of canvas. Once the patch is secure, you'll be able to conceal the hole with paint on the front. Patches can be sewn on behind tears in outdoor canvas while adhesive patches will cover up small puncture holes. While you can repair split canvas seams with a flat-felled seam, leave any vinyl replacement work to the professionals. EditPatching Holes in Art Canvas - Lay the torn canvas face-down and smooth out the frayed edges. Prepare a clean, flat surface before laying your canvas down to protect the artwork itself. Adjust the edges of the hole so that the loose fibers are facing the back side. Groom these carefully so that they lie flat on the back side of the canvas.[1]
- If these raw edges are left unattended, you might end up with a bumpy or frayed section on the front of the canvas.
- Cut a patch measuring larger than the hole out of similar canvas. Try to match the weight and fiber content as closely as possible. If the canvas has exposed raw edges where it's been stapled onto on the back side of the frame, use the thickness and texture of these raw edges for reference. Cut a rectangular patch measuring roughly larger on all sides than the hole.[2]
- If the original is a medium-weight linen canvas, for example, look for a linen canvas of a similar weight.
- If you're not sure about the weight and fiber content of the canvas, bring the painting into an art supply store and ask a sales agent to help you find a suitable match.
- For a long rip with no real width, cut a patch measuring about long by wide. You'd widen the patch if the damaged area was more of an open hole than a narrow rip.
- Apply PVA glue to the canvas patch. It's important to use acid-free adhesive to prevent damage to the artwork. Spread a dollop of PVA glue around the back surface of the patch. Use an old brush or your fingertips to smooth it out in an even layer.[3]
- If you prefer, you can use an iron-on adhesive strip instead of glue. Cut the thermoplastic material down to the size of the patch and iron it onto the patch. Remove the backing and then iron it onto the back side of the artwork, using a press cloth to prevent the art canvas from scorching.[4]
- Press the patch glue-side down onto the hole. Once your patch is covered with a layer of PVA glue, place it over the back side of the hole, centering it over the hole. Press it down firmly on all sides. Smooth out the patch with your hands to remove any air bubbles.[5]
- If the original art canvas doesn't meet in the middle and you're left with a hole, place some parchment paper underneath the artwork before gluing down the patch to prevent the glue from sticking to the work surface beneath it.
- Leave a flat board and weight on top of the patched area for 24 hours. You'll want the glued-on patch to dry as flat as possible, so you'll need to weigh it down. Place a piece of stiff board or a block directly on top of the patched region.[6]
- Add a weight or heavy book on top to add some additional pressure.
- Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours before removing the board and weights.
- Paint over the damaged area on the front of the canvas. Heavy-bodied paints like oils and acrylics will conceal the raw edges on the front of the painting. Using the same type of paint and the same colors, mix together a matching shade and use a brush to carefully paint over the tear.
- Be patient and build up layers of color gradually.[7]
- Allow it to dry completely and you shouldn't be able to see the tear from the front of the canvas.
- Apply the paint in a moderately thick coat to adequately cover up the raw edges. But don't smear it on so thickly that it's noticeably different from the rest of the artwork.
EditPatching Tears in Outdoor Canvas - Determine whether the canvas is synthetic or natural with a burn test. Find out whether your canvas is made of synthetic or natural fibers by reading the label or manufacturer's guide, or by doing a simple burn test. Cut off a small fiber from the damaged area and pick it up with metal tweezers. Hold it near a lit cigarette lighter or hot soldering iron.
- If the fiber melts and beads up, it's synthetic. Therefore, it will be safe to seal off the frayed edges with heat.[8]
- If the fiber becomes ashy and disintegrates, it's a natural fiber like cotton.
- Avoid bringing the canvas in contact with the lighter flame; the heat alone will melt it.
- Seal off torn edges in synthetic canvas using a soldering iron or lighter. Synthetic canvas will melt when exposed to heat, preventing it from fraying. Carefully hold the tip of a cigarette lighter or soldering iron at the torn edge, without actually bringing the flame in contact with the fabric. Wait a few seconds until the canvas starts to melt from the heat. Then slowly move along the tear to seal off all of the raw edges.[9]
- Be very careful not to light the canvas on fire and cause bigger repair problems!
- Use clear nail polish or Fray Check to seal the raw edges of natural canvas. If you're repairing canvas made of a natural fiber, apply a single coat of clear nail polish or Fray Check around the raw edges to seal them off. Allow the sealant to dry completely before adding the patch.
- The heat sealing method doesn't work on cotton, linen, and other natural canvases since the fibers will disintegrate when exposed to the flame.[10]
- Pin a canvas patch behind the tear. You can purchase a canvas repair kit for your project, or order a sufficient length of outdoor canvas online from a specialty manufacturer. Cut out a patch that measures wider than the tear on all sides. Use straight pins to hold the patch in place on the underside of the tear.[11]
- Choose a canvas in a similar color to the item you're repairing. If you can't get the exact color, choose a darker shade. Lighter patches will be more noticeable.
- For a tear measuring long by wide, cut a by patch.
- Sew the patch in place using a machine straight stitch. Set your sewing machine up with a heavy-duty needle and durable, UV-resistant thread. Stitch around the perimeter of the patch with a straight stitch, adding backstitches at the beginning, end, and corners for extra durability.[12]
- Don't hand-sew the patch. It may look untidy and won't be as durable as a machine-sewn hem.
- Stitch down or darn the ripped edges on the machine. To darn the hole, run a straight stitch in a wide zig-zag all the way down the tear on your machine.[13] Alternatively, run a straight stitch around the outside edge of the hole to secure the loose fabric down.
- This is especially useful if the damaged area features a wide gash or a long cut and you're left with loose flaps of canvas on top of the patch.
- When darning synthetic canvas that you've melted the edges of, be very careful as you work over the stiff melted areas. Go slowly or use the handwheel when you reach these spots to avoid breaking your needle.
EditFixing Other Outdoor Canvas Issues - Place an adhesive canvas patch behind a small hole. Purchase a canvas repair kit or a specialty adhesive canvas patch. Clean off the damaged area with an alcohol wipe to remove any dirt and debris. Then cut the patch down to size, leaving it roughly larger than the hole on all sides. Peel off the backing and press the patch onto the canvas, smoothing it out to remove any air bubbles.[14]
- Any minor puncture or tear measuring less than can be repaired with an adhesive patch. For a round hole, cut a circular or square patch measuring across.
- The patch should have some stretch so it can move with the canvas.
- Opt for a clear patch if you can't find one in a matching color.
- Create a flat felled seam on a sewing machine when repairing a split seam. Set up your machine with a heavy-duty needle and durable, UV-resistant thread.[15] Line up and pin the torn edges with the right sides of the canvas together. Sew a straight stitch, leaving a seam allowance. Press the seam open, with both parts of the seam allowance to one side. Pinch the seam allowance edges and fold them underneath themselves, so that the raw edges touch the stitches you just made. Pin or press these in place, then run 1 or 2 straight stitches over the seam allowance.[16]
- A flat felled type of seam is effective because the raw edges and the first seam lines are protected from exposure to the elements.
- It's very important to use a durable needle and slow sewing speed since you'll be going over 5 layers of fabric for the finishing stitches.
- Hire a professional to replace cloudy or discovered vinyl windows in the canvas. If the vinyl panels in your boat cover or camping tent have deteriorated, know that you don't need to replace the entire canvas. Sewing on a new piece of vinyl requires an industrial sewing machine and heavy-duty supplies, so for the best results, contact your local boating repair shop and ask if they can make this repair for you.[17]
- Getting vinyl windows replaced could save you about 70% over purchasing new canvas covers.
- Even if you notice a split in the seam between the vinyl window and the canvas, take it to a professional since the material will be too tough for a home sewing machine to handle.[18]
- If part of your outdoor canvas is completely shredded, it may be worth looking into a replacement before undertaking a complex repair on your own. Ask a professional for quotes for repairing and replacing the canvas so you can weigh your options.
- Prevent outdoor canvas damage by applying a spray-on waterproof canvas shield.
EditThings You'll Need EditPatching Holes in Art Canvas - Art canvas
- Canvas patch
- Scissors
- Acid-free glue
- Stiff board
- Weight(s)
- Paint
- Paintbrushes
- Iron-on adhesive patch (optional)
- Iron (optional)
- Press cloth (optional)
EditPatching Tears in Outdoor Canvas - Soldering iron or lighter
- Canvas patch
- Straight pins
- Scissors
- Sewing machine
- Heavy-duty machine needle
- UV-resistant thread
EditFixing Other Outdoor Canvas Issues - Adhesive canvas patch
- Scissors
- Sewing machine
- Heavy-duty machine needle
- UV-resistant thread
- Iron
- Boating repair service (optional)
EditRelated wikiHows EditReferences
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