How to Make a Paper Butterfly Posted: 05 Nov 2018 04:00 PM PST Paper butterflies are not only dainty and chic, they're also fun to make. Try your hand at origami to create one or, if you're more of a crafting beginner, fold a simpler version with pretty pleats. When you're finished, use your butterflies as decor or give them to friends and family as gifts. EditFolding an Origami Butterfly - Fold the paper in half, then open it and fold it in half the other way. Make sure to crease both of the folds. Line up the edges when you're folding to ensure the crease is directly in the center.[1]
- If your paper is the same color or pattern on both sides, it doesn't matter which side you start on. However, if one side is white, or the "backside," begin with that side facing up.
- Fold the paper in half diagonally, open it, and fold on the other diagonal. Bring 2 opposite corners together to create the folds. Press down firmly to create defined creases. Repeat on both diagonals. Open the paper to lie flat after you fold it.[2]
- Your 4 folds should intersect in the exact center of the paper.
- Bring the right and left creases together, creating a triangle. With the paper laying flat in front of you, press the right horizontal crease to the left one. As you do this, the paper should collapse onto itself in a triangle shape along the diagonal creases you made.[3]
- Press down on the triangle to crease the paper once it's collapsed.
- If the paper isn't folding properly, go back over your original creases again. If they aren't defined enough, the paper will have trouble falling into the shape.
- Fold the 2 top corners into the center. When you created the triangle shape, it made 2 layers. Grab the corners on the top layer and line up their edges with the crease in the middle of the triangle.[4]
- Try to align the corners with the crease perfectly so they aren't overlapping or so there isn't a large gap between the edges in the center.
- Flip the triangle over and fold the bottom up, leaving a small tip showing. You aren't folding it completely half. Instead you're folding it about 1/3 up from the base of the triangle. Hold the fold in place gently with your hand.[5]
- Bend the top layer of the tip over the base. There are 2 layers at the tip of the triangle. Peel the top 1 forward, folding it over the wide triangle bottom you're currently holding in place. The tip will be the head of the butterfly.[6]
- Crease the fold that you make with the tip. This will help secure the body of the butterfly in place and prevent it from unraveling.
- Pull down the pieces from the bottom layer to create the lower wings. With the top layer folded over, bring the bottom layer of the tip in the opposite direction. The points of the 2 triangular pieces should be facing down, away from the folded head.[7]
- It may help to hold the folded tip with your thumb while you pull the other pieces down so that the butterfly doesn't come apart.
- Re-crease the folded tip after you arrange the bottom pieces if necessary.
- Trim the edges of the wings if you want a smaller butterfly.
EditMaking a Pleated Paper Butterfly - Fold the square piece of paper in half, creasing it. Line up the edges of the paper when you fold it to make sure you're creating a line directly down the middle. Press firmly with your fingernail to form the crease.[8]
- Use any type of paper you'd like, whether it's origami paper, colorful cardstock, or even pretty gift wrap.
- The size of your paper doesn't matter, as long as it's square. If you have a rectangular piece, simply trim it down so all of the edges are the same length.
- Unfold the paper and cut along the crease line. Use your scissors to cut the piece of paper in half. The groove of the crease should help guide your scissors in a straight line through the paper.[9]
- Make sure your scissors are sharp so they don't tear or crinkle the paper.
- If you have trouble cutting in a line, hold your scissors against a straight edge, like a ruler, while you cut.
- Make accordion folds with one of the pieces of the paper. Fold a small piece lengthwise, then flip the paper over to fold it back onto itself. Continue flipping the paper from side to side as you fold along the entire length of the paper. Think of this motion as similar to making a pleat or a fan.[10]
- You can make the folds as thick or as thin as you'd like.
- Keep the folds all the same thickness, no matter what size you choose.
- Take the other piece of paper you cut and fold it in half lengthwise. Place the 2 longer edges on top of each other. Then create a crease by pressing down along the fold.[11]
- Try to make the crease as straight and even as possible so it splits the paper directly in half.
- Open it up and fold the 4 corners in toward the center crease line. Line up the edges straight along the crease. Your paper will now be in the shape of a hexagon, with 2 pointed ends formed by the folded corners.[12]
- Leave the corners folded. If they won't stay in place, use a piece of double-sided tape or a little bit of glue under the flap.
- Flip the paper over and make accordion folds on each side of the crease. Fold one half the paper in towards the center. Then repeat on the other side. This will be the top half of the butterfly's wings.[13]
- Make the folds as large or as small as you'd like, depending on the size of your paper.
- Bend both pieces of pleated paper in half. Press the pleats together and hold the paper between your thumb and forefinger. Carefully fold one end onto the other, creasing it firmly.[14]
- The paper won't stay folded, but that's okay. You just want to make a crease, so the paper is in a V-shape.
- Place 1 piece above the other and tie them together at the center. Arrange the 2 pieces so that they form a butterfly shape. Pinch them together while you tie string or cord around both pieces.[15]
- To secure the 2 pieces together better, you can add a dab of craft glue or hot glue in the middle.
- Having a friend hold the pieces together while you tie the string makes it easier to get a tight knot.
- You can also use ribbon or a pipe cleaner instead of string.
- Pull out the pleats to open up the wings. Scrunched-up folds don't exactly resemble a beautiful butterfly. Gently pull the pleats apart so that the 2 pieces of paper look like 1 large wing on each side instead of 2 disjointed ones.[16]
- Be careful not to rip the paper when you're arranging the pleats.
EditThings You'll Need EditOrigami Butterfly EditPleated Paper Butterfly - 1 square piece of paper
- 1 piece of string, cord, or ribbon
- Scissors
- Double-sided tape (optional)
- Glue (optional)
EditSources and Citations Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
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How to Cite Sources Posted: 05 Nov 2018 08:00 AM PST When you paraphrase or quote information from another source in a research paper, essay, or other written work, cite the original source of the information. Otherwise, your readers believe you are trying to pass this information off as your original thought. Proper citation adds credibility to your work and provides evidence to support any arguments you make. Your citations also give your readers the opportunity to further explore the topic of your work on their own.[1] EditIn-Text, MLA, and Chicago Citation Help EditAPA and Turabian Citation Help EditGathering Information about Your Sources - Determine what citation style you need to use. There are several different citation styles used in different research fields. Ask your instructor or supervisor which style to use for your project. The most common styles used in academic writing are the Modern Language Association (MLA), American Psychological Association (APA), and Chicago styles. You can access the guide for each style online, or check it out of your local library.[2]
- Generally, you'll have full citations listed at the end of your paper. The citation list may be called a reference list, bibliography, or Works Cited, depending on the type of citation style you're using.
- Within the body of your paper, use in-text citations to signal that the material preceding the citation is not your original work. The in-text citation allows your reader to find the full citation at the end of your paper. In-text citations may use the in-line parenthetical, footnote, or endnote style.
- Identify the author and title for each source. For every source you plan to use in your research paper, write down the author and title. If there are multiple authors, write them down in the same order as they appear on the title page of a book, or in the byline of an article.[3]
- Save time and reduce the risk of error by making a photo or screenshot of the title page or top of the article that clearly shows the author and title.
- Write down publication information for each source. Look for the date the source was published, as well as the name and location of the publisher. For academic journals and reference volumes, you may also need information about the edition, volume, or issue.[4]
- For a print source, find the publication information on the back of the title page. Look for the copyright information. In print magazines and journals, this information typically appears on the same page as the table of contents, or on the page that lists the periodical's staff.
- For articles online, use the date that appears on the article itself – not the copyright date for the website. To identify the publisher of the website, look for an "about" page. You may also be able to find this information at the bottom of the homepage.
- If you're citing an article that appears in a magazine or journal, write down the pages on which the article appears.
- Copy direct URLs for online sources and record the date of access. All citation styles require a direct URL, or permalink, for any source that you found online. Since information on the internet can be changed or updated, most citation styles also want you to provide the date you last accessed the page.[5]
- If you accessed a scholarly article from an online database, it may have a digital object identifier (DOI). Use this number instead of a URL.
- Double-check your online sources the day before you turn your paper in. That way if anything has moved or changed, you can make sure you have the most up-to-date information. Use that date as your date of access in your citations.
EditPlacing In-Text Citations - Cite immediately after you paraphrase or quote source material. For most citation styles, your in-text citation goes at the end of the sentence where the paraphrased or quoted material is used. Parenthetical citations typically come before the sentence's closing punctuation, while footnote superscript numbers come after.[6]
- For some citation styles that use footnotes or endnotes, the superscript number appears immediately after the paraphrased or quoted material, rather than at the end of the sentence. Consult the guide for the citation style you're using to make sure.
- Use author-date parenthetical citations in APA. To cite paraphrased material in the text of your paper, put the author's last name in parentheses at the end of the sentence where the paraphrase appears. Place a comma after the author's name, then type the year the source was published. Place the period ending the sentence after the closing parentheses mark.[7]
- Example: Leaving the ground in sod increases the organic matter of the soil by 15 percent in 10 years (Allison, 1987).
- If you include the author's name in your text, put the year in parentheses immediately after their name. For example: Allison (1987) demonstrated that leaving the ground in sod increases the organic matter of the soil by 15 percent in 10 years.
- If you're quoting the source directly, include the page number in your in-text parenthetical citation. For example: Allison (1987) asserted that "leaving the ground in sod increases the organic matter of the soil by 15 percent in 10 years" (p. 45).
- Insert footnotes for Chicago style in-text citations. Chicago style uses footnotes that include the same information as the full bibliographic citation, with different punctuation. Place a superscript number at the end of the sentence where the paraphrased or quoted material appears, after the closing punctuation.[8]
- Example: Leaving the ground in sod increases the organic matter of the soil by 15 percent in 10 years.1
- Generally, you'll separate the elements of the citation with commas rather than periods. Publication information typically is set off in parentheses. The only period in a Chicago-style footnote occurs at the very end. For example: Kent Portney, Taking Sustainable Cities Seriously (Cambridge: MIT Press, 2003).
- Include the author's name and page number for MLA in-text citations. MLA uses parenthetical citations in the body of your work. In most cases, you'll provide the author's name and the page number where the material appears, with no intervening punctuation.[9]
- Example: Leaving the ground in sod increases the organic matter of the soil by 15 percent in 10 years (Alison 45).
- If the source you're citing doesn't have an author, use a shortened version of the title instead. Use enough of the title that your reader could easily find the full reference entry in your Works Cited. Put the title in quotation marks. For example, if you were creating a parenthetical citation for a source called "Taking Sustainable Cities Seriously," and it didn't have an author, you might use: ("Sustainable Cities" 57).
EditWriting a Reference Entry - Start with the name of the author. In nearly all citation styles, the reference entry begins with the last name of the author. If there are multiple authors, include them all in your reference entry in the order they appear on the title page of a book, or byline of an article.[10]
- The most common format for author's names is to place the last name first, followed by a comma, then the first name. Typically you will close this portion of the reference entry with a period. For example: Hawking, Stephen.
- For some citation styles, such as APA style, only include the author's first initial in your reference entry, rather than their full first name. For example: Hawking, S. W.
- Provide the year of publication for APA reference entries. For most citation styles, the title of the source is the next part of the reference entry. However, for APA, place the year the source was published in parentheses after the name of the author. Put a period after the closing parentheses mark.[11]
- For example: Hawking, S. W. (1998).
- For some sources, such as magazines and newspapers, you need a more specific date. Type the year first, followed by a comma. Then type the month and day the article was published. For example: Hawking, S. W. (2005, July).
- List the title of the source using appropriate formatting. The way a source title is formatted depends on the citation style you're using as well as the type of media the source is. Titles for shorter sources, such as magazine and journal articles, are typically placed in quotes. Book titles are usually italicized. The title is typically followed by a period. If the title appears in quotes, the period comes before the closing quotation marks.[12]
- Journal article example: Hawking, Stephen. "Information Loss in Black Holes." Physical Review, July 2005.
- Most citation styles require titles in title-case, meaning that all nouns, pronouns, verbs, and adverbs are capitalized. For example: Hawking, Stephen. A Brief History of Time.
- APA style uses sentence-case for titles, capitalizing only the first word and any proper pronouns. For example: Hawking, S. W. (1998). A brief history of time.
- Include publication information for the source. Publication information may include the name of the publisher, the place where the source was published, and (except for APA citations) the year the source was published. The format for this information varies among the styles of citation.[13]
- APA example: Hawking, S. W. (1998). A brief history of time. New York: Bantam.
- For print sources, most styles call for the city and state where the source was published (or city and country, for sources published outside the U.S.) to be listed first. The location is typically followed by a colon, after which the name of the publisher is listed. For example: Hawking, Stephen. A Brief History of Time. New York: Bantam, 1998.
- For most citation styles, the year the source was published follows the name of the publisher. Typically only the year is needed, although for periodical publications, such as newspapers or magazines, you may need a more specific date.
- The year of publication typically is the copyright year. However, for online sources, look for a date the specific article was published rather than using the copyright year of the website as a whole.
- Provide the URL and date of access for online sources. The final element of a reference entry is a direct URL or permalink where the article or document can be found, if it was a source that you accessed online. Most styles also require a date of access, since online content can easily be edited, updated, moved, or deleted.[14]
- Example: Clark, Stuart. "A Brief History of Stephen Hawking: A Legacy of Paradox." New Scientist, 21 March 2018. https://www.newscientist.com/article/mg23731700-100-a-brief-history-of-stephen-hawking-a-legacy-of-paradox/. Accessed 2 October 2018.
- Many scholarly articles are available through online databases. If you accessed an article through one of these databases, you'll typically provide the article's unique digital object identification (DOI) number, rather than a URL. For some citation styles, you must also include the name of the database in your reference entry.
- Format your reference list following the guidelines for the citation style you're using. For most citation styles, references are listed in alphabetical order by the last name of the author.
- Commonly known facts don't require a citation. However, observations, conclusions, opinions, and the like all require attribution. If you aren't sure, you may be able to get help from your instructor or supervisor. When in doubt, provide a citation.
- Failure to cite sources properly could lead to charges of plagiarism. Plagiarism is a serious issue that can have dire consequences in academic and professional settings.
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
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How to Dye Clothes with Food Coloring Posted: 05 Nov 2018 12:00 AM PST Using food coloring is an easy and inexpensive way to dye or tie-dye your clothes at home. It's also a fun activity that's great to do on your own, or with family and friends by your side! Head outside on a nice day, or set up a workspace indoors where you can dye your clothes. Decide what you want to dye, prep your workstation with some old towels, and get ready to create some colorful and original pieces of clothing! EditDyeing Clothes a Single Color - Choose a wool fabric if you want your color to last. Protein fibers, like wool, cashmere, and silk will hold the dye for the longest. Cotton fabric dyes well, but the color generally fades a little bit faster over time.[1]
- Remember that you can always re-dye items that have faded.
- Lay down old towels and gather your materials together in one place. Use towels or sheets that you don't mind getting discolored. You'll also need a large plastic bowl, white vinegar, water, and various food coloring options. Getting everything together is helpful so that you don't have to go searching for anything while your hands are messy.[2]
- There are some techniques to remove food coloring stains, but it's easiest to avoid making them if you can.
- Place your clothes in a 1:1 mixture of water to vinegar for 30 minutes. Place your clothes in the bowl first, and then add enough equal parts of water and white vinegar so that they're completely saturated. To keep things even, use a measuring cup to add of each liquid at a time.[3]
- The pre-soak prepares the clothes to accept the dye better than if you were to go straight to water and food coloring.
- Although you can dye your clothes without soaking them first, the color won't be as vibrant!
- Soak your clothing in water and food coloring after the vinegar soak. Dump out the water/vinegar mix, and gently wring out your clothes. Then use of water (or more, depending on how bulky the clothes are) and 10-15 drops of food coloring. Mix the water and dye in a large bowl and place your wrung-out clothes into the new mixture.[4]
- If you're nervous about the color being too dark, start with fewer drops and add more until you get the desired color.
- Mix together 2 or more dyes to create different colors. Most packs of food coloring have 4 basic color options—blue, green, red, and yellow. Mix together red and blue to make purple. If you want orange, combine red and yellow. Make a beautiful cyan color by mixing green and blue. Experiment with your dyes and water to find the perfect shade for your clothes.[5]
- If your pack of food coloring comes with white or black dyes, use those to either lighten or darken the mixture to get the color you want.
- Let your clothes sit in the water and dye mixture for 10-20 minutes. Use a long spoon to push the fabric down in the water to make sure it's fully submerged, and stir it every few minutes let the dye access all of the material. You could even wear rubber gloves and manually rearrange the fabric every couple of minutes, too.[6]
- After 10-20 minutes, you will notice that the water is clearer than it was before because the dye is getting absorbed into the fabric.
- Put the clothes into a resealable bag for at least 8 hours. Wring out your clothes after they've soaked in the water and dye mixture, and then place each item into its own resealable bag and set them out of the way somewhere. It's okay if they're left for longer than 8 hours.[7]
- The time in the resealable bag makes the dye react with the fabric faster, which gives you a more vibrant, longer-lasting color in the end.
EditTie-Dyeing - Choose clothes made from protein fibers for long-lasting colors. Depending on your project, use clothing made of wool, cashmere, or silk for the longest-lasting results. These fibers are made from animals, and food coloring stays in them better than other sorts of fibers, like cotton, linen, and some synthetic fibers.[8]
- If you have clothes that you want to dye that aren't made from protein fibers, that's okay too! You can still dye them—just keep in mind that the color may fade more quickly.
- Use cotton fabric for a lighter-colored option that may fade over time. Cotton clothes can be dyed with food coloring, but the color won't be as vibrant and will fade out more quickly. If you want a lighter color anyways, though, cotton is a great way to go.[9]
- Rub salt into your cotton shirt before you begin to achieve more vibrant colors. There are also ways to set in the color after the clothes have been dyed.
- Protect your workstation by laying out several old towels. Before you begin dyeing anything, lay out some towels or sheets that you don't mind getting discolored. There are ways to remove stains from food coloring accidents, but it's easier if you can avoid them altogether.[10]
- You may also want to wear old clothing and pull back your hair before you get started.
- Mix of water in a water bottle with 6-8 drops of dye. Use a plastic bottle for each color you want to incorporate, and fill each one with the of water and at least 6 drops of food coloring—you can add more, though, if you want a darker shade. Replace the caps, shake the bottles, and set them to the side so they're ready to use later.[11]
- If your bottles don't come with a nozzle, prepare them for the tie-dyeing process by using a thumbtack to poke a hole through the lid of each water bottle after they've been filled. That way you can squeeze the bottle and distribute the color with a little more control.
- Soak your fabric in a 1:1 mixture of water to vinegar for 30 minutes. Put your clothes into the bowl and add enough water and white vinegar to fully saturate them. Depending on what size your bowl or container is, you may need anywhere from to each of water and white vinegar.[12]
- The pre-soak in water and vinegar prepares the clothing to accept the dye.
- Twist rubber bands around the fabric to create different patterns. After the 30-minute soak, wring out the clothes and prepare them for tie-dyeing. Use rubber bands to wrap them in different places, or try some of these fun designs:[13]
- Twist your fabric into a spiral and then wrap two rubber bands around the clothes in an "x" to create a spiral pattern.
- Roll your fabric into a tube and then place rubber bands periodically around the tube to create stripes.
- Pinch little tufts of fabric and wrap rubber bands around them to make starbursts.
- Make a random pattern by scrunching up the clothes and wrapping rubber bands around them wherever you want.
- Squeeze the dyes onto the different sections of your clothes. In general, using a single color in a section and then switching to a new color for the next section will create a comprehensive looking shirt. But don't be afraid to experiment and try mixing colors or doing multiple dyes in one section!
- You may want to wear gloves during this part, as the dye will stain your hands.
- Don't forget to dye each side of the clothes.
- For easier application, try putting your rubber-banded clothes on a baking tray to keep the dye from getting everywhere.
- Place your clothes into a resealable plastic bag for at least 8 hours. Once you've applied the dye, place each item into a plastic bag and let them sit somewhere out of the way for a minimum of 8 hours.[14]
- It's okay if you leave the clothes for longer than 8 hours! You just want to make sure they stay in the bag for that long at a minimum.
EditSetting the Dye and Caring for Your Clothes - Submerge the fabric into a bowl filled with cold water and table salt. After the 8+ hours have passed, take your clothes out of the resealable plastic bags. Fill a bowl with cold water and add 1-2 tablespoons (15-30 grams) of table salt to the water. Put your clothes into the water and hold them down until they're completely submerged. Let them stay in there for about 5 minutes.[15]
- This is a really quick and easy way to set in the dye. Check out the microwaving and baking options for some extra-strength setting methods.
- Use a microwave to produce more vibrant colors. The heat from the microwave reacts with the dye to make it a little brighter, and it also helps the dye set into the fabric, too. Simply place your bowl of water, salt, and the fabric into the microwave and cover it with plastic wrap. Poke a few holes into the plastic wrap, and microwave the bowl on low for about 2 minutes.[16]
- Let the fabric cool down before you try and handle it, or use tongs to remove it from the bowl.
- Bake your clothes in a mixture of water and citric acid to set the dye. Fill a shallow baking pan halfway with water and add in of citric acid. Stir until the citric acid has dissolved, then submerge your clothes in the pan. Set your oven for and bake the clothes for 30 minutes. Let the water and fabric completely cool before you touch it with your bare hands.[17]
- You can buy citric acid in the baking aisle at your local grocery store.
- Rinse out the item under cool water until the water runs clear. Regardless of which setting option you used, always rinse your dyed clothes under cool water. The water may be very lightly tinted at first, but before long it should run clear, letting you know that the dye has set into the fabric and won't bleed out.[18]
- If you microwaved or baked your clothes, make sure they are cool to the touch before you rinse them out to protect yourself from burns.
- Hang the clothes to dry rather than putting them in the dryer. The heat from the dryer could fade the dye on the first drying go-around. So instead, hang them out somewhere and let them air dry.[19]
- Avoid laying the clothes out flat on a surface. If there is any residual dye, it could leach onto the surface.
- Clean your clothes separately from other items for the first 2-3 washes. Although the setting process should keep your clothes from bleeding, there is always the off-chance that they might. Wash them separately from other loads to ensure the dye won't contaminate anything else.[20]
- If you have several dyed items of similar color, it's okay to wash them all together.
- Wash your dyed items with cold water to prevent them from bleeding. Even after those first 2-3 washes, use cold water to prevent any potential bleeding and also to give the color more longevity. Throw your dyed clothing into the wash with other items that need cold water and you should be good to go![21]
- You can use normal laundry detergent on your dyed items. The soap won't harm the color in any way.
- Re-dye your clothes if the color fades over time. One of the great things about dyeing your clothes with food coloring is that it's easy to give touch-ups over time. Simply repeat the dyeing process to darken an item that has gotten lighter.[22]
- Keep in mind, too, that you can dye old or stained items of clothing to give them new life.
- You can dye so many different kinds of clothes with food coloring! Sock, shirts, shorts, headbands, tank tops, and white or neutral leggings are all great options.
- If your hands get stained from the food coloring, try using a clean washcloth soaked in white vinegar to rub away the stain. You can also make a paste with baking soda and water if the white vinegar doesn't work.[23]
EditThings You'll Need EditDyeing Clothes a Single Color - Clothes to dye
- Old towels
- Large bowl or container
- White vinegar
- Measuring cups
- Food coloring options
- Water
- Long-handled spoon
EditTie-Dyeing - Clothes to dye
- Old towels
- Large bowl or container
- White vinegar
- Measuring cups
- Food coloring options
- Water
- Rubber bands
- Resealable plastic bag(s)
EditSetting the Dye and Caring for Your Clothes - Table salt
- Citric acid (optional)
- Baking tray (optional)
- Rubber gloves (optional)
- Tongs
EditSources and Citations Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
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