| How to Repair Minor Rust on a Car Posted: 21 Nov 2018 04:00 PM PST When bare metal comes into contact with the oxygen in everyday air, the resulting chemical reaction (called oxidation) creates rust, which eats away the metal in your car. If you've got a little elbow grease to spare, you can do away with minor rust before it has a chance to become a real problem. EditPrepping the Car - Identify areas of surface and scale rust on the vehicle. Rust is usually placed into one of three categories based on how serious it is, but penetrating rust is the worst. Check the rust spot for signs that it has created holes through the metal or that the metal has rusted all the way through. If it has, that metal can't be fixed; it must be replaced.[1]
- Surface rust is light, and is the first sign of rusting. It is surface deep and usually forms in scratches or nicks in your paint. It will just look like a bit of rust on the metal.
- Scale rust is more serious, and it develops after surface rust is allowed to spread. It's the most serious rust you can address easily at home. It may include some paint bubbling or flaking of rusty metal.
- Penetrating rust develops after rust goes untreated for a long time. If there are holes in the metal or the rust goes all the way through, the only way to fix it is to cut the affected metal out and weld a new piece in its place.
- Find the paint code for your vehicle. You will need to repaint the part of your car you remove the rust from, and that means needing to find an exact match for your vehicle's paint color. Most cars have labels on the body inside the driver's side door frame and occasionally under the hood that will list that "paint code" used by the manufacturer. Give that code to the clerk at the auto parts store to get a can of paint that matches it exactly.[2]
- If you can't find the paint code on the body of the vehicle, you can often find it on the manufacturer's website or occasionally in the owner's manual.
- Purchase primer, base paint, and clear coat from the auto parts store. You'll need an automotive primer and paint matched to the vehicle's color by using the paint code. You will also need a can of automotive clear coat. You can get these paints in spray cans, though you can also get it for use in paint guns with air compressors if you have one.[3]
- For most minor rust spots, spray cans of paint are sufficient, but if you need to repaint an entire door, hood, or trunk lid, you may want to use an air compressor or secure the help of a bodywork technician.
- Wash the area around the rust spot. Use car wash soap, water, and a sponge to scrub any dirt or debris away from the area the rust is to make sure you are able to clearly define what needs to be repaired. When you're done, rinse the area with clean water.[4]
- You may want to wash the entire vehicle to look for any other rust spots while you're at it.
- Be careful scrubbing the rusty area, as metal flakes may poke into you as the rust comes up.
- Tape off the body panel with the rust on it. You're going to be sanding and painting the area with the rust, so you'll need to cover anything you don't want covered in sand and then sprayed with paint. Use painter's tape to cover headlights, tail lights, windows, or anything else near the rust spot that you don't want to repaint.[5]
- Painter's tape will come back off of the car without leaving any adhesive residue.
- To tape off large things like a windshield, you can use plastic (like garbage bags) that you secure in place with painter's tape.
EditSanding Away the Rust - Scrape away blistered paint and rust chunks. Use a metal or plastic scraper and wear gloves to ensure none of the sharper chunks can stab or cut you. Removing as much of the loose rust and paint as you can will make sanding much easier. Just press the scraper into the rust repeatedly to free up any loose bits.[6]
- You can purchase metal or plastic paint scrapers from most hardware stores.
- Keep scraping until all the loose material is off of the rust spot.
- Use 40-grit sandpaper to remove most of the rust. Because 40-grit sandpaper is so rough, it should make short work of most surface and even scale rust. Press the sandpaper flat against the rust spot and move it quickly from side to side, then shift the part of the sandpaper you're using as that area gets worn out.[7]
- It may take a few sheets of sandpaper to get all the serious rust off.
- Keep sanding until you see bare metal.
- Use 120-grit sandpaper to "feather" the edges of the spot. With the rust sanded away, switch to a finer sandpaper to expand the area you've sanded and remove any edge that has developed in the paint. Make sure the metal feels flat, and that there's no distinct transition between the painted portion of the metal and the bare metal you just removed rust from.[8]
- Try sanding in small circles along the edge that developed while sanding with the 40-grit sandpaper to create a flat, even surface.
- You may want to use 220-grit sandpaper after the 120-grit to achieve an even better finish.
- Treat the area with rust inhibitor. Even with the rust sanded away, it's still best to apply a liquid rust inhibitor to it to make sure no new rust is able to develop. Spray the rust inhibitor on and either let it dry or wipe it away, depending on what the specific brand's instructions tell you.[9]
- Some rust inhibitors may also come as a gel, which you wipe on and then wipe away.
- Make sure the surface is completely dry before moving on to the next step.
EditApplying the Primer - Wash and dry the area again. Thanks to all the sanding, scraping, and spraying you've been doing, chances are good that there's a lot of loose debris on the area you'll need to paint, so wipe it down with soapy water, rinse it off, and let it dry.[10]
- Make sure the entire area is completely clean and dry before moving ahead.
- You can use towels to help speed up the drying process.
- Apply automotive primer evenly to the entire area you're painting. Hold the spray can (or gun if you're using one) about away from the metal and spray in a steady left to right direction. If the spot is big enough to need you to make multiple passes, overlap each swipe by about 50% to ensure even coverage.[11]
- Do not hold the paint can or gun in one place while it's spraying or it will become too thick and begin to drip.
- Shake the can periodically between sprays to keep the paint distribution even.
- Wait at least 20 minutes for the primer to dry. Depending on how large an area you're painting, you may choose to apply a second coat of primer, but for most small jobs it isn't necessary. Read the instructions on the primer to know how long it needs to dry, but 20 minutes is usually sufficient.[12]
- In unusually humid climates it may take longer than 20 minutes for the primer to dry.
- Wet-sand the primer with 2,000 grit sandpaper for best results. If the rust spot is in an easy-to-see place like the hood or trunk lid, you may want to go the extra mile to ensure an even, glossy finish. Pour water on the primer while sanding it with the 2,000 grit sandpaper to help create a very smooth finish.[13]
- The water helps keep the paint cool and lubricated while you sand to prevent burning or glazing it.
- Make sure the entire area is clean and dry before moving on to the next step.
EditPainting the Metal - Spray on the base coat. Just like with the primer, you'll want to hold the can (or gun) about away from the metal as you spray. Spray from left to right in horizontal rows and make the rows overlap by about 50% if you need more than one to cover the area.[14]
- Keep the can moving as you paint, otherwise too much could collect and result in dripping.
- Do not wet-sand a base coat of paint.
- Wait at least 60 minutes for the base coat to dry. The last step will be applying a layer of clear coat to the paint, but before you can do that, the base coat needs to be completely dry. While it may take days for it to "cure" enough to be washed, most automotive paint is dry enough to be worked with in about an hour.[15]
- If it's especially humid where you are, wait 90 minutes to be safe.
- Add a layer of clear coat. Clear coat is another automotive paint that you can get in spray cans. It adds a layer of protection over the colored base coat and gives the paint a glossy shine. Spray it on just as you did the primer and base coat.[16]
- Apply the clear coat in smooth, even rows just like the other paint.
- You can purchase clear coat from any auto parts store.
- Read the instructions on your specific clear coat to know how long it takes to dry.
- Wet-sand the clear coat once it's dry if you want an excellent finish. The paint should already look pretty good, but you can make it look even better by sanding it with 2,000 grit sandpaper and water to remove any small blemishes and achieve a good shine. Keep pouring water over the paint as you sand it back and forth until it looks perfectly flat and even.[17]
- In many areas, you can skip wet-sanding the clear coat and still have an excellent looking paint finish.
- Hoods, door panels, and trunk lids are some places you may want to wet-sand because paint issues will stand out on large, flat surfaces.
- Remove the painter's tape. Pull all tape and any plastic you used to cover parts of the vehicle away and admire your finished product. However, don't try to wash or wax your new paint for at least a week so it can cure thoroughly.[18]
- The new paint may be slightly brighter than the old because of sun fading, but the two colors should be nearly indistinguishable.
- If you notice any issues with the paint, repeat the wet-sanding process to smooth it out.
- Paint indoors if possible (in a well-ventilated space) to avoid letting bugs or dust land in the paint as you work.
- Always wear eye protection and a mask while sanding or painting.
- Make sure the area has adequate ventilation when priming or painting.
EditThings You'll Need - Car wash soap
- Painter's tape
- 2,000- grit, 120-grit, and 40-grit sandpaper
- Automotive primer, paint, and clear coat
- A scraper
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Pack a Waste‐Free Lunch Posted: 21 Nov 2018 08:00 AM PST Many people pack their food in plastic bags before putting it in a brown paper sack. Unfortunately, many components in a sack lunch are just thrown away. Packing a waste-free lunch helps reduce food waste and protect the environment. By picking low-waste foods and putting them in reusable containers, you can eat lunch without any trash! EditHelp Reducing Waste EditBringing Reusable Dinnerware - Buy a reusable lunch box instead of using paper bags. Find a lunch box or bag that's large enough to hold the food you usually pack. Keep the lunch box in a fridge to keep your food cold until lunchtime. When you're finished eating, make sure to bring your box back home to use the next day.[1]
- Look for an insulated lunch box if you need to keep food hot or cold. If you don't have an insulated lunch box or access to a fridge, put a reusable ice pack in your lunch box to keep it cold.
- Steel lunch boxes are great alternatives if you want to avoid using plastic or other packing containers.
- Lunch boxes are sold in many stores throughout the year, but more designs will be available during the late summer when back to school shopping occurs.
- If you need to use a brown paper bag, be sure to recycle it when you're finished.
- Put food in resealable plastic containers. Avoid using plastic bags to store your food. Use portion-sized containers to reduce the amount of space you use inside your lunch box. When you're finished with your lunch, put the containers back in your lunch box so you can wash them at home.[2]
- Reusable containers also help you save money since you don't have to keep buying plastic storage bags.
- Bento boxes are reusable containers with multiple compartments so you can store many kinds of food in one easy to carry package.
- Pour drinks into a reusable bottle. Fill a hard plastic bottle with your preferred drink rather than buying single-serve bottles. Add a few ice cubes to keep your drink cold. When you're finished with your drink, you can rinse it out and fill it with water throughout the day. Wash your bottle each night to use again the next day.[3]
- Keep hot drinks, or even soup, in a Thermos to keep them piping hot.
- Wide-mouthed bottles make it easier to wash the insides and add ice cubes.
- Pack your own metal silverware. Bring a fork, knife, and spoon with you from home so you don't have to use disposable plastic silverware. When you've finished your lunch, rinse off any food scraps before putting the silverware back in your box. Wash the silverware at home so you can easily use it again.
- You only have to bring the silverware you are going to use for your meal.
- Bring a cloth napkin instead of paper. Paper waste accounts for 15% of food waste.[4] Keep a tea towel or cloth in your lunch box until it gets dirty. When the cloth gets dirty, take it home and wash it with the rest of your laundry.[5]
- Keep multiple cloth napkins in your home so you have an easy replacement if one gets dirty before you need to do laundry.
EditPacking Food Efficiently - Purchase snack foods in bulk rather than single-serve portions. Single-serve packages produce a lot of waste from their wrappers. Instead, buy a larger container of the snack food to keep at home. For lunch, fill a small reusable container with the snack food with the portion you'd normally eat.[6]
- For example, instead of buying small bags of chips each day for your lunch, purchase a family-sized bag to keep in your pantry. Pack a small serving in a container for your lunch.
- Bulk packages of food tend to be cheaper than single-serve portions.
- Eat whole pieces of fruit instead of processed fruit cups. Put fruits like apples, pears, and bananas in your lunch box without a container. This way, you still easily get a serving of fruit in your meal without any of the plastic waste.[7]
- If you're packing a lunch for a child, consider cutting the fruit into pieces and putting it in plastic containers. Many children only take a few bites of whole fruit before throwing them away.[8]
- Pack leftover food if you have access to a microwave. Take leftovers that you have left from a previous meal and store them in a microwave-safe container. Heat your food when it's time for lunch. This way, you can eat the extra food you have rather than making a new meal.
- Leftovers are great and easy choices if you've run out of time in the morning to prepare a lunch.
- Compost any food scraps if you can. Compost is great to add nutrients to planting soil. If you don't have leftover food that you can save for another meal, bring the food scraps home. Throw your scraps into a compost bin or pile outside to use in a garden.[9]
- If you're a child, talk to your parents before you start a compost bin or pile.
- Continue your waste-free practices at home with your other meals. Going waste-free is more cost-effective and will help the environment.[10]
EditThings You'll Need - Reusable lunch box
- Plastic or glass containers
- Reusable water bottle
- Silverware
- Cloth napkin
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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| How to Dry Out a Phone Without Rice Posted: 21 Nov 2018 12:00 AM PST If you happen to drop your phone in water and need to dry it out, don't worry. There are several ways of doing so without soaking the phone in a bowl of uncooked rice. In fact, rice may not even be the most reliable substance to pull the moisture out of a soaked phone. When you're drying out your phone, it's imperative that you get it out of the water and disassemble the phone as quickly as possible. Wipe the interior components dry and let them sit in a drying agent for at least 48 hours. Also never shake your phone when it is wet it could cause it to get more damaged. EditSelecting a Drying Agent - Try some crystal-based cat litter. Crystal cat litter is made of silica gel. This material is extremely absorptive and will do an excellent job of pulling residual moisture out of a water-damaged phone. You can purchase crystal cat litter at any large grocery store or pet-supply shop.[1]
- Do not use any other type of cat litter. Clay-based or powdery litters may stick to your phone and turn it into a wet, clay-covered mess.
- Give instant oatmeal a try. Instant oatmeal is more absorptive than regular rolled oats and more much absorptive than steel-cut oats. If you already have instant oatmeal in your home cabinet, it may be the most effective substance you can use to dry your phone.[2] Be aware that if you use oatmeal to dry your phone components, you may end up with a phone covered in small, gooey bits of oatmeal dust.
- You can purchase unflavored instant oatmeal at your local grocery store.
- Find some synthetic desiccant packets you could use. Synthetic desiccant packets are those packets that come in various commercial items including shoe boxes, dried foods (like beef jerky or spices), and electronic devices. The packets are typically filled with highly absorptive silica beads which will pull moisture out of your phone. You do not need to tear open the packets. Simply pile them up on top of your phone and let them pull the moisture out.[3]
- This option will only work if you've been saving up silica gel packets in advance for several months. However, this isn't a bad idea: many people own smartphones, and the chances of dropping your smartphone in water at some point are high.
- Or, if you haven't been saving up silica gel packets, you can order them in bulk through major online retailers.
- Use couscous pearls to dry your phone. Couscous is a type of crushed and dried wheat grain. The small, dry grains will work similarly to silica beads or instant oatmeal and pull any residual moisture out of your phone components. You can purchase couscous pearls at any grocery store or supermarket. The pearls shouldn't get any couscous dust on your phone's components, making this a cleaner option than instant oats.[4]
- Be sure to purchase an unflavored and unseasoned variety.
EditRemoving Your Phone from Water - Pull your phone out of the water immediately. Whether you've dropped your phone in the toilet, bathtub, or a lake, the first step is to get it out of the water ASAP. The longer you leave your phone in the water, the more water damage it will absorb.[5]
- Leaving the phone in water for a longer period of time will allow water to soak into and saturate more of the interior electrical components.
- Remove the phone's battery and other interior parts. Before you take any steps to dry off the outside surfaces of the phone, pull out the electrical components. Open the phone case and pull out the battery and the SIM card. If you've inserted a micro SD card into your phone, pull that out as well.[6]
- The interior components are crucial to the phone's functions. If they get saturated with water, the phone won't work.
- Blow water off of the phone components and wipe them dry with a towel. Blowing on the electrical parts of your phone will remove the majority of water from them. Wiping the phone parts down with a clean, dry towel will remove any remaining moisture on the parts' surface. You should only rely on drying agents to remove residual moisture that's worked its way into the components of your phone.[7]
- Instead of blowing on the phone components, you could also shake them rapidly back and forth through the air. Be careful not to inadvertently throw your battery across the room, though.
EditUsing a Drying Agent - Place your phone components in a sized container. If you're going to cover your phone with a drying agent, you'll need quite a bit of the substance. So, look in your cabinets and pull out a large empty pitcher, a big mixing bowl, or a large saucepan. Set all of the disassembled components of your phone into the bottom.[8]
- You can leave out the phone plastic back cover. This isn't crucial to the phone's function and will air dry.
- Pour at least 4 cups (340 grams) of drying agent over your phone. Don't be stingy with whatever drying agent you chose. You'll need a substantial amount of it to pull the last remnants of water out of your phone's electrical components.[9]
- Put a lid over the container if you're using an inedible drying agent like silica gel.
- Leave the phone in the container to dry for 2–3 days. It takes time for your phone to dry out to the point that it's usable again. Let it sit in the drying agent for at least 48 hours.[10] If you pull the phone out prematurely, you'll end up reassembling it with water still lodged inside.
- If you need to use your phone during this time, you could ask a friend if you can briefly borrow their phone. Or, communicate through email and social media instead of texts and phone calls.
- Reassemble your phone and try turning it on. Once 48-72 hours have passed, reach into the drying agent and pull out your phone. Shake off pieces of the drying agent, and put the battery, SIM card, and SD card back into your phone. Then, push the "power" button to turn your phone back on.[11]
- If the phone won't turn on after you've dried it—or if it turns on but barely works or the screen has been damaged—you'll need to take it to a professional phone-repair company.
- Never stick the phone in a warm oven or under a hot blow dryer. The warm air could damage—or even melt—crucial components of the phone.
- If you use a Galaxy (or other Android) smartphone, you can open up the case with your fingernail. Some may require a small Philips screwdriver, like you'd use for a pair of eyeglasses. For an iPhone, you'll need to use a specialized "pentalobe" screwdriver.[12]
EditSources and Citations
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