| How to Keep Cookies Fresh Posted: 04 Nov 2018 04:00 PM PST Cookies are always best when eaten fresh out of the oven, however, sometimes they need to be stored for later. If you have the strength to not eat them right away, store them in an airtight container with a piece of bread. This will help them to taste fresher for longer. If you want to keep your cookies fresh for a longer period, put them in a sealed bag and place them in the freezer. EditStoring Cookies in a Container - Let homemade cookies cool completely before storing them. Hot cookies will release condensation into the air making other cookies in the container soggy. Since nobody likes a soggy cookie, leave the cookies on a cooling tray before transferring them into a container.[1]
- If you don't have a cooling tray, leave the biscuits to cool on a plate instead.
- Transfer your cookies into an airtight container. This will stop the cookies from becoming soft and crumbly. Airtight ziplock bags or plastic containers are easy and inexpensive options. If possible, choose a container that fits the cookies in snugly. This helps to limit the airflow in the container and will keep the cookies tasting fresh for longer.[2]
- If you have brought or made different kinds of cookies, store them in different containers as keeping soft and crispy cookies together will cause the harder cookies to go soggy.
- If you plan to store your cookies in a plastic container, check that it is made from food-grade plastic.
- If you are storing very hard and crunchy biscuits, place them in a container, such as a cookie jar, that allows a little airflow.
- Place sheets of parchment paper between the layers of cookies. If you have brought or made a bulk batch of cookies, put sheets of parchment paper in between each cookie layer to stop them from sticking to each other.[3]
- If you don't have any parchment paper, use wax paper or a tortilla instead.
- Avoid stacking cookies that are frosted or are really soft.[4]
- Place a piece of white bread in the cookie container to keep them fresh. White bread will help to absorb moisture which will keep the cookies crunchy and fresh. Place a piece of fresh white bread into the top of the bag or container.[5]
- If you don't have any fresh white bread in the house, use a tortilla instead.
- Keep the cookie container at room temperature. Soft homemade cookies will last for 3 days and hard or packaged cookies will last for 2 weeks if you manage not to eat them first! Keep the container out of the sun to keep the cookies tasting their best.[6]
EditFreezing Cookies - Transfer the cold cookies into an airtight plastic bag. Wait until the cookies feel cool to touch. This will stop them from creating condensation in the plastic bag and going soggy. Choose a bag that is sealable and large enough for the cookies to sit in a single layer.[7]
- A sealed bag will stop the cookies from absorbing other flavours and having a funny smell.
- Freeze the cookies unfrosted and add the frosting once the cookies have thawed. This will keep the icing looking and tasting its best.[8]
- Store the cookies in multiple bags if they won't fit in a single layer. If there are too many cookies to lie in 1 flat layer, split the cookies between a few sealable bags. This will stop the cookies from sticking together.[9]
- Place the airtight bag into the freezer for up to 5 months. Over time the cookies will start to lose their flavour. Eat the cookies within 5 months to ensure that they taste their best. Write the date on the bag with a permanent marker so that you can work out how long the cookies have been in the freezer for.[10]
- Thaw the cookies at room temperature for 15 minutes. Remove the cookies from the sealed bag and place them on a plate to cool. Devour the delicious cookies once they are completely thawed.[11]
- If there are flies around, cover the cookies with a clean linen cloth while they thaw.
- If you want to warm a cookie up, simply place it in the microwave for 10 seconds.
- Keep your thawed cookies in an airtight container for up to 7 days. Chances are that you'll eat the cookies pretty quickly, however, if there are some left, keep them in a sealed container. This will help them keep their original texture and stay fresh.[12]
- Throw the cookies away after 7 days as the dairy products in the cookies will be past their best.
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| How to Put on a Dog Harness Posted: 04 Nov 2018 08:00 AM PST A harness allows you to safely walk your dog without worrying that they may run off. Harnesses put less pressure on your dog's neck, and they allow you to train your dog not to jump or pull.[1] At first, your dog's harness might seem confusing and impossible to put on, but it's easier than it looks! Depending on the type of harness you've purchased, you'll either need to have your dog step into the harness or slip it over the dog's head. EditPutting on a Step-In Harness - Place the unbuckled harness on the ground. You need enough space for you and your dog to get behind the harness. The harness should have two leg loops in the front with straps down the middle. Spread out the straps so it will be easier to help the dog into the harness.[2]
- If your harness has a vest or chest cover attached to it, make sure the outside is facing down toward the floor.
- Command your dog to "sit" and "stay" behind the harness. This makes it easier to help your dog into the harness.[3] If your dog hasn't learned "sit" and "stay" commands, you or a partner will need to hold the dog still while you put on the harness. [4]
- If the dog squirms, it's best to have a partner to help you get it into the harness.
- Place your dog's front paws into the correct loops on the harness. Pick up the right paw and move it forward into the appropriate loop. After you put the right paw down on the floor, lift the dog's left paw and place it into the other loop.[5]
- Some harnesses label which side is meant for which paw. However, many harnesses are reversible. Check your harness to see which type you have.
- Pull the harness up onto your dog. The harness should fit around your dog's body, not around its neck. The loops will settle at the top of the dog's legs against its belly. Tug the side straps up over the dog's belly and onto its back.[6]
- The harness may have more than one clip to secure it on the dog. For example, it might have a shoulder clip and lower back clip. You may need to pull up and clip the straps one at a time if this is the case.
- Secure the clips on the harness. Slide the two pieces of the clip together. Listen for the "click" that tells you the clip has attached. Tug on the clip to make sure it doesn't come undone.[7]
- If your harness has more than one clip, attach all of them.
- Adjust the harness to fit on your dog. Move the adjustable pieces on the harness until they're secure on your dog. Make sure the straps aren't loose enough to come off the dog. Next, check that you can fit 2 fingers under the harness straps, which ensures the harness won't be too tight on your pup.[8]
- Check that the dog can't easily slip out of the harness. Make sure it won't easily come down over the dog's paw or up over its head.
- You will need to adjust the harness every time your dog wears it.
- Reward your pup with a treat and praise. This teaches your dog to enjoy putting on its harness. It also makes it easier for you to put on the harness in the future, as your pup will look forward to the treats![9]
EditSecuring an Overhead Harness - Command your dog to "sit" and "stay." It's easier to put the harness on the dog if it stands in place. Your dog should be sitting in front of you.[10]
- If your dog isn't trained to "sit" and "stay," you or a partner will need to hold the dog still while you put on the harness.
- Find the neck hole and slide it over the dog's head. The neck hole should look like a circle that fits over your dog's head and shoulders. Find the D-ring for the leash, then position it either in the front or the back, depending on where it's supposed to go. Slide the harness over the dog's head and position it low on the dog's shoulder area so it isn't around the neck.[11]
- The neck hole is usually the smallest hole on the harness. The side straps will be attached to the neck hole on each side.
- You want the harness to rest against the dog's body rather than around its neck.
- If your overhead harness has a vest or comfort shield attached, make sure the outside of the fabric is facing away from your dog.
- Put one of the dog's paws into the loop on the harness. Your harness should have a leg loop on one side. Lift the dog's paw up off the floor and slide it into the loop. Then, put your dog's paw down on the floor.[12]
- If your harness clips in place on both sides, you'll need to clip the straps around the first leg. Wrap the two straps around the leg, then clip the buckle.
- Loop the remaining strap under your dog's leg and up toward its back. This will turn the strap into a leg loop. Make sure the strap goes under and behind the dog's leg, which is important for control.[13]
- Once the harness is on your dog, it will look like both legs are inserted into side loops.
- Click the buckle on the dog's back. The strap that you looped behind the dog's leg will clip into a buckle on the dog's back. Push both sides of the buckle together, then listen for the "click."[14]
- Test the buckle to make sure it's secure. You should be able to pull up on the buckle without it coming apart.
- Fit the harness around your dog using the plastic adjusters. Slide the adjusters to tighten or loosen straps, as necessary. Pull on the straps to check that the neck hole and leg loops aren't loose enough for your dog to get out of them. Then, check that you can put 2 fingers under the straps to ensure it's not too snug.[15]
- You should adjust the harness every time you use it.
- Give your pup a treat and lots of praise. Putting on the harness should be a pleasant experience for your dog. This teaches it to like putting on its harness, making it easier to outfit the dog for future walks.[16]
EditAttaching a Leash - Check the position of your leash clip. Basic harnesses have a leash clip in the back, while training or no-pull harnesses usually have a clip in the front. However, you can find harnesses that can be clipped in either the front or the back. The leash clip should look like a D-ring.[17]
- If your harness only has a clip on one side, don't try to attach the leash on the other side.
- Clip the leash on the back of the harness for calm dogs and small dogs. Find the D-ring on the back of your dog's harness. Open the clasp on the leash, then secure it over the D-ring. A back-clip harness provides a comfortable walking experience for dogs that don't pull or jump. These harnesses are also safe for little dogs that have small, sensitive necks.[18]
- Back-clip leashes are less likely to get tangled around your dog's feet.
- If your dog tends to pull, however, a back-clip harness could result in you being drug around like a sled.[19]
- Attach the leash on the front to train or control your dog. Find the D-ring on the front center of your dog's harness, then pull back the clasp on the leash. Place the clasp over the D-ring and attach it. This will allow you to have more control over your dog, especially if it tends to pull or jump. You can determine the position your dog moves and stop it from jumping up.[20]
- Front-clip leashes are more easily tied up in your dog's legs. Watch your dog to make sure it doesn't get tripped up or twisted in the leash. If it does, stop and untangle the dog.[21]
- Choose a harness that fits your dog properly. Check the sizing chart provided by the manufacturer of the harness you want to purchase to make sure it'll fit your dog.
- If your dog doesn't like wearing its harness, you can get it used to the harness by letting it wear the harness for 5-10 minute periods. Play with your dog before and after you put on the harness, and give the pup treats as a reward.
- If your dog has a tendency to pull and jump, you can find harnesses that tighten up on your dog when it misbehaves. You will put the harness on the same way you do a traditional harness, but it will tighten if the dog pulls or jumps. When using these harnesses, make sure your dog never feels pain.[22]
- A harness that is too tight can hurt your dog. Similarly, a loose harness could allow your pup to slip out, making the harness ineffective.
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| How to Care for Turtles Posted: 04 Nov 2018 01:00 AM PDT Turtles might not be as cuddly as cats or dogs, but they make great pets. Since they can live for decades, be sure you're ready to make a long-term commitment before purchasing a turtle. To keep your pet happy and healthy, provide proper housing, nutrition, and good hygiene. Specific requirements vary by species, so ask the breeder or pet store about exact care instructions for your turtle. EditProviding the Right Shelter - House your turtle in the largest possible enclosure. Keep your turtle in a large glass aquarium. As a rule of thumb, the enclosure's volume should be per of your turtle's shell length. Keep in mind your pet's exact space requirements depend on its species.[1]
- If you have a juvenile turtle, be sure to find out how large it'll be when it's an adult. Suppose you buy your juvenile turtle a tank. If the turtle eventually grows to , that tank will be way too small.
- The tank should also have a secure cover to prevent your turtle from escaping.
- Additionally, aquatic turtles need water deep enough to swim. The water's depth should be at least twice the turtle's length.
- Cover the bottom of the tank with peat moss or soil. Mix together equal parts of wood chips and peat moss or sand and soil. Line the bottom of the tank with about of the mixture.[2]
- Avoid lining the bottom of the tank with gravel. Your turtle could eat the small rocks and choke.
- Make a basking area for your turtle. Make the layer of sand and soil or peat moss and wood chips higher on 1 side of the tank. Build up smooth, wide river rocks or driftwood onto the elevated side of the bedding. This side of the tank should stay dry and rise up out of the water.[3]
- Gently slope the peat moss or soil and river rocks so the incline won't be too steep for your turtle to climb.
- Get a hiding box at the pet supply store and place it in the basking area. Your turtle will appreciate having a cozy spot to hide.
- Keep in mind the water in the tank will need to be deeper if you have an aquatic turtle. Make the basking area's height more than twice the turtle's length to ensure it'll be above water.
- Add water to the tank. You can fill the tank with tap water, provided your water doesn't have high chlorine levels. If you have a box turtle, the water should be shallow enough that the turtle can lift its chin above the surface when it's submerged.[4]
- Box turtles can drown in deeper water. If you have an aquatic species, such as a pond terrapin, remember that the water should be at least twice as deep as the turtle's length.[5]
- Find a chlorine test kit online, at a pet supply store, or at a home improvement store. If your tap water's chlorine level is above 0, fill the tank with bottled water or purchase a dechlorinating agent at the pet supply store.
- Use a reptile lamp to heat the basking zone. Creating a temperature gradient with a hot side and cooler side is an important part of raising reptiles. Purchase a reptile lamp with a reflector at the pet store; make sure it's labeled for reptiles. Keep a thermometer in the tank, and make sure the basking zone's temperature stays between .[6]
- If your reptile lamp uses an incandescent bulb, you'll also need to buy a UVA/UVB fluorescent lamp. UV light provides your turtle with vitamin D, which helps it absorb calcium.
- You'll need to turn the lamp off at night, but the tank cannot cool to less than . If the tank's air and water temperatures get too cool at night, place the the tank on a heating pad and purchase a water heater at the pet store.[7]
- It's wise to set up the tank at least 2 weeks before getting your turtle so you can perfect the temperature and other environmental conditions.
- Install a filter to help keep the water clean. Invest in a filter labeled for a volume of water at least twice that of your tank. Suppose you have an aquatic turtle, you house it in a tank, and half of the tank is filled with water. Since the tank contains about of water, go with a filter labeled for .[8]
- When you're at the pet supply store, ask an employee for advice about purchasing a filter.
- Even though you're using a water filter, you'll still need to remove feces and other debris from the tank with a net every day. To keep the water cleaner, feed your turtle in a separate tank.
- Invest in a smaller backup tank. A back-up tank will come in handy if you need to transport your turtle. Additionally, you'll have to clean the main tank regularly, and you'll need a place to store your turtle in the meantime.[9]
- Since it's only for temporary use, the backup tank doesn't have to be big. Just make sure your turtle has some room to crawl around. To keep your turtle warm, transfer the heat lamp to the backup tank when it's in use.
EditFeeding Your Turtle - Purchase turtle food labeled for your pet's species. Purchase pellets or canned turtle food at your pet supply store. Most turtles kept as pets need both animal protein and veggies. Store-bought food will provide most your turtle's nutrition, but you should also supplement its diet to ensure it stays healthy.[10]
- Supplement your turtle's diet with fish, invertebrates, and veggies. Buy frozen and live guppies or minnows, worms, grasshoppers, and crickets. Additionally, chop up veggies, such as kale, lettuce, dandelion, and carrots, and add them to your turtle's food.[11]
- Swap up what you feed your turtle to keep its meals interesting. You could feed it store-bought food 1 to 2 times a week and homemade meals another 1 to 2 times per week.
- Live fish and insects can provide mental stimulation.
- To prevent choking, cut up veggies into bite-size pieces smaller than your turtle's beak.
- Feed your turtle 3 to 4 times per week. Most turtle species commonly kept as pets need to be feed every other day, but check with the breeder or pet store to be sure. Mornings are good feeding times, since turtles are more active earlier in the day. Determining the right amount of food is a little tricky and isn't an exact science.[12]
- As a rule of thumb, give your turtle the amount of food that it can eat in 5 minutes. Observe it when you first feed it to gauge the right amount. Turtles are opportunistic eaters, and they're prone to overeating if they have an unlimited supply of food.[13]
- If you have an aquatic turtle, put its food directly in the water. Aquatic turtles can't swallow food unless it's in the water. After 5 minutes, scoop out any extra food with a net to help keep the water clean.[14]
- Feed a box turtle with a food bowl, and remove the bowl after about 5 minutes.
- Add calcium to your turtle's food every other feeding. You can find powdered calcium carbonate online and at pet stores. Sprinkle a pinch onto your turtle's food 1 to 2 times a week to ensure it meets its calcium requirement.[15]
- Turtles need lots of calcium to keep their bony shells strong.
- If have an aquatic turtle, you can also keep a block of calcium carbonate in the water for it to chew.[16]
EditKeeping Your Turtle Healthy - Check your turtle for signs of illness regularly. Give your turtle a quick inspection every 1 or 2 days, such as when you feed it. Make sure your turtle's skin and shell are smooth and free of any marks, blisters, or blemishes. Check its eyes, nose, and beak for discharges or discoloration, and notice any unusual changes in behavior.[17]
- Turtles are generally healthy, but they are prone to infections, malnutrition, and eye problems. If you spot concerning signs, such as a soft, leathery shell, cloudy eyes, or skin blisters, bring it to an exotic pet vet who's experienced with treating turtles.
- Search online for an experienced local vet, or ask the breeder or pet store for referral.
- Use a net to remove droppings from the tank every day. To keep the water as clean as possible, scoop out droppings, leftover food, and other debris daily. Be sure to wash your hands after touching the inside of the tank or handling your turtle.[18]
- Turtles carry salmonella, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea.
- Test the water's pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels every few days. Get an aquarium water test kit at the pet supply store or online. Make sure the pH is between 6.0 and 8.0, or roughly pH neutral. Ammonia levels should be 0, nitrite levels should be less than 0.5 ppm (parts per million), and nitrate levels should be less than 40 ppm.[19]
- Your turtle will drink the water, so it's important to test it and keep it clean. If the pH is off, amend the water with a store-bought agent, which you can find at the pet supply store. If ammonia, nitrate, or nitrate levels are high, change the water and consider upgrading your filter.
- Change 25% of the aquarium's water weekly. Using a bucket or siphon, drain and discard about 1/4 of the tank's water. Then replace it with an equal amount of new water.[20]
- The water contains beneficial bacteria; whenever possible, avoid changing it entirely.
- Clean the tank every 3 weeks. Transfer your turtle to the backup tank so you can clean the main enclosure. Save 1/4 to 1/2 of the water, and discard the rest along with the old peat moss or soil. Then scrub the rocks, hide box, and inside of the tank with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts warm water.[21]
- Rinse the tank and accessories thoroughly, and be sure to wash away all traces of the bleach solution. After thoroughly rinsing the tank and accessories, put the habitat back together and refill it with water.
- Be sure to wash your hands and sanitize the sink or tub with bleach after washing the tank. Remember that turtles carry germs that can make people sick.
- Remember to always wash your hands after handling your turtle, touching inside of the tank, or cleaning the tank.
- Specific care instructions depend on your turtle's species, so check with the breeder or pet store for your pet's exact requirements.
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