| How to Remove White Out Posted: 22 Sep 2018 05:00 PM PDT White-out, also known as liquid paper or correction fluid, is used to cover up mistakes on paper. When you brush a thin coat of white-out onto paper, it forms a permanent bond, so it's almost impossible to remove white-out from a document without destroying it. Fortunately, you might have better luck getting white-out spills off of your clothes, skin, or furniture, although in some cases the stain might be impossible to remove. EditGetting White-Out Stains out of Clothes - Allow the white-out to dry before you attempt to remove the stain. If you try to clean the white-out before it's dried, it will smear and make a bigger mess. Instead, allow the stain to dry completely, which should only take about 5 minutes, depending on the size of the spill.[1]
- If you're in a hurry, rub the area with an ice cube to help it harden more quickly.[2]
- Use a butter knife to scrape away as much of the white-out as possible. Once the white-out has completely hardened, try scraping it away with a dull, flat tool like a butter knife. Try to push the flat edge of the knife under the edge of the stain until the liquid paper flakes away. While some residue will probably remain on the fabric, this should remove the bulk of the white-out buildup on your clothes.[3]
- You could also use a paint scraper, a credit card, or any other dull, flat surface.
- Don't use anything sharp like a butcher's knife or scissors, which could tear the garment.
- Read the label on the white-out to see if it's water-based or oil-based. Some brands of liquid paper are water-based, which means they'll come out easily with normal washing, while you'll have to treat oil-based stains with a stain remover.[4]
- If the product is water-based, it will usually say so in the product name or be clearly advertised on the label. If the label doesn't specify which one it is, it's probably oil-based.
- Place the garment in the washing machine if the white-out is water-based. Wash the garment according to its care label, just as you normally would. If the garment is made of a durable fabric, you may want to wash it in warm water to help dissolve the stain, but it may come out in cold water as well.[5]
- Check to ensure the stain is gone before you put the clothes in the dryer, otherwise, the stain could set in and may become permanent.
- Treat oil-based stains with a stain remover made for laundry. Saturate the stained area and let the stain remover sit for about a minute. After the minute is up, rub the white-out spot with a clean cloth to see if the stain has dissolved. If it has, wipe away as much as possible, then launder your garment as usual.[6]
- If the stain is still present, apply more stain remover and wipe it off again after 1 minute.
- You can also sponge amyl acetate, which is a powerful stain remover used by dry cleaners, onto the stain. Amyl acetate is very strong, so test it on an inconspicuous area first and work in a ventilated area.[7]
- Apply laundry detergent directly to the spot if the stain is still present. If you've already treated an oil-based white-out stain but it's still present, coat the whole area with the detergent and let it soak in for about 5 minutes. When the time is up, blot the white-out stain with a clean cloth until the stain is completely removed.
- If you're using powdered laundry detergent, you should wet the clothes before treating the stain. This will help the powdered detergent dissolve and soak into the fabric.[8]
- If you prefer liquid detergent, there is no need to wet the garment first.
- Wash the garment as usual once the stain is removed. Once you've successfully removed an oil-based white-out stain, you can wash your clothing the way you normally do. If you're not already sure, read your garment's care tag to determine exactly how it should be washed. Depending on the type of material, either place the clothes in the washing machine or wash them by hand.[9]
EditTaking White-Out off Skin - Let the white-out dry on your skin completely before you try to remove it. Trying to wipe away white-out while it's still wet will just leave you with a bigger mess. Luckily, white-out dries quickly. Some brands dry in as little as 60 seconds, although you may need as much as 5 minutes for some spills.[10]
- You can tell the white-out is dry when it doesn't feel tacky or soft to the touch anymore.
- Squirt a little liquid dish soap on a dry paper towel. You just need enough soap to cover the surface of the white-out stain on your skin. For a smaller stain, just a squirt should be enough, although if you spilled a whole bottle, you might need to use a little more.[11]
- Do not wet the paper towel before adding the soap, as it will dilute the soap, making it less effective.
- Any liquid soap will work for this, but dish soap is especially good at breaking down stains like white-out.
- Rub the soapy paper towel over the white-out stain on your skin. The dish soap should dissolve the white-out in just a few seconds. You will start to see white streaks or flakes mixed in with the soap residue left behind from the paper towel.[12]
- If you spilled a lot of liquid paper, you might have to scrub the area a little harder, and it might take longer.
- Wipe away the soapy stain with a clean, damp paper towel. You should see the remnants of the white-out stain coming off of your skin onto the second paper towel. If any white-out remains, repeat the process.[13]
- If you have a large stain, it may be easier to work in small sections rather than trying to tackle the whole thing at once.
- Rinse your skin thoroughly with water. Once you have completely gotten rid of the stain, rinse the area with fresh water to ensure there is no soap or white-out residue left behind. Otherwise, these substances may irritate your skin.
EditCleaning Other Surfaces - Dab the spot with rubbing alcohol if you spill liquid paper on carpet. Pour some rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth and quickly blot the spot from the outside in, which will help keep it from spreading around. If you need to, switch to a new cloth once you have gotten the bulk of the stain up, so you don't keep transferring it back to the carpet.
- Rubbing alcohol evaporates quickly. This makes it an ideal solvent for use on carpets, since most other cleaners have to be washed away.[14]
- Try to treat the stain as quickly as possible. Once it sets in, it can be very difficult to remove.
- Treat stains on hard, color-safe surfaces with paint remover. Certain plastics, metals, or tiles may be durable enough to withstand paint remover or turpentine, but you'll need to test a small, inconspicuous area first to make sure you don't ruin the surface. Pour the paint remover onto a clean rag, then wipe away the spot, working from the outside in.[15]
- Flush the area with water when you're finished.
- If you're using paint remover or turpentine, work in a well-ventilated area, avoid prolonged skin exposure, and do not allow the chemicals to splash into your eyes.
- Treat stains on wood with a cleaner for sticky substances. There are a number of commercial products which are made to remove glue or other sticky materials from wood. If you spill white-out on a wood floor or a piece of wood furniture, dampen a cloth with one of these cleaners and blot the liquid paper from the wooden surface.[16]
- Use a clean cloth to wipe away the residue as you work so the white-out doesn't smear.
- Use a citrus-based cleaner to remove oil-based liquid paper stains from upholstery. If you've spilled white-out on your sofa, scrape off as much of the dried residue as possible, then spray a cloth with a citrus-based stain remover and dab at the stain. Work from the outside in, applying more cleaner as needed.
- It may help to use an upholstery brush to help loosen the fibers on your upholstery.
- Always test the stain remover you're using on an inconspicuous area to make sure it won't lead to discoloration.
- Pens containing correction fluid lead to less mess than a bottle and brush, so you're less likely to have fewer stains to clean up if you use them. [17]
- Unfortunately, attempting to remove liquid paper from paper will damage the document permanently.[18]
- If you're using amyl acetate or paint remover, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area.[19]
- Amyl acetate is highly flammable, so do not allow the garment to be exposed to flames or high heat.[20]
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Infuse Olive Oil Posted: 22 Sep 2018 09:00 AM PDT Herb-infused olive oil is a light, tasty way to add flavor to many types of meals. It can be used in cooking or as a dressing on your food. Both cold-infused and heat-infused olive oils are easy to make at home, but the process requires careful consideration of your ingredients to prevent the growth of bacteria in the bottle. EditCreating Strong Flavors - Select a high-quality extra virgin olive oil. In the supermarket or a speciality grocery store, look for a darker green bottle of olive oil, which is colored to protect the flavor of the oil. Read the label to make sure the oil is labeled as "extra virgin" olive oil, which is the highest quality olive oil available. Try to buy a bottle that clearly labels the region where the olives were grown and the date of harvest.[1]
- If you can't find extra virgin olive oil, you can also buy "virgin" olive oil, which is slightly lower quality, but still has a very good flavor and can be used for infusions.
- Be sure to check the "best by" date to ensure that the expiration date gives you enough time to make and use the oil.
- Infuse a single ingredient into the oil for a strong, bold flavor. Many people prefer to add only 1 ingredient to their oil to give it a distinct taste. For a pleasant and strong infusion, try making rosemary olive oil, thyme olive oil, garlic olive oil, truffle olive oil, lemon olive oil, or basil olive oil.[2]
- For example, if you make Italian food frequently, you can make a garlic olive oil to use while cooking.
- If you like to use olive oil on salads, try infusing a lemon or ginger olive oil.
- Create flavor blends with 2 ingredients. Choose flavors and herbs that you use together in recipes often, as those tend to work together well. Popular multi-ingredient infused oils include garlic-chili olive oil, Italian herbs olive oil, and rosemary-garlic olive oil.[3]
- As a general rule, try to stick with creating infusions that have no more than 2 ingredients. More ingredients can sometimes result in muddled flavors and conflicting tastes.
- If you want to experiment with multiple-flavor infusions that have more than 2 ingredients, try making smaller batches of the infused oils to taste test. This will prevent waste and ensure that the flavors work together.
- Do a cold-infusion for fresh herbs and organic ingredients. If your ingredients are tender herbs like basil, oregano, cilantro and parsley, or small ingredients like peppercorn, they'll release their flavor easily when cut or chopped and can be cold-infused. This method is also the best for ingredients like lemons, which should be kept cold to prevent rancidity.[4]
- If you're unsure of whether your ingredient should be cold or hot infused, try a cold infusion first. This method works well with most ingredients and creates a mild flavor profile.
- Heat-infuse hardy herbs and preserved ingredients. If you're using woody herbs, like rosemary and sage, a heat-infusion is best for releasing all of the bold flavors. This method is also good for preserved ingredients like dried mushrooms and chilis.[5]
- For woody herbs, including rosemary, sage, and thyme, you'll need only a few sprigs of the herb for your infusion, since they tend to be stronger and the hot oil will draw out the flavor.
EditCold-Infusing Fresh Ingredients - Wash and dry fresh herbs and organic ingredients. Cold-infusion works best for tender ingredients, such as parsley, cilantro, and fresh chilis, or small ingredients like fresh peppercorns. Wash them under warm water, and lay them out to dry overnight to avoid transferring water into your infusion.[6]
- While bacteria won't grow in olive oil, it can grow on wet ingredients that have been added to an infusion.
- Add your herbs to a food processor, and pulverize them for 30 seconds. For every of oil, use about of fresh herbs for your infusion. Place the ingredients into the food processor, and let it run for 30 seconds or until the herbs are pulverized.[7]
- This helps the herbs begin to release their flavors to infuse into the oil and will speed up the infusion process.
- Place the herbs in the bottle and pour the oil on top. Scoop the pulverized herbs into a clean, dry bottle, and pour room temperature oil into the jar until it's full. Leave as little room at the top of the jar as possible, and screw the lid or cap on tightly. Invert it a few times to thoroughly mix the ingredients.[8]
- Make sure the lid is on as tightly as possible to prevent air from entering the bottle while it infuses.
- Refrigerate the oil for 1-2 weeks to infuse the flavors. The refrigerator is the perfect place for cold-infusing olive oil because the temperature is regulated and it's dark unless the door is open. Every 2-3 days, pour out some oil and taste it to check how the infusion is progressing.![9]
- Cold-infusion oils should be refrigerated at all times to prevent them from becoming rancid.
- Strain and re-bottle the oil when the flavor is strong enough. Once the flavor is to your liking, the olive oil is ready. Pour the oil through a strainer to remove the solid ingredients, and then funnel the oil back into a clean, dry, resealable bottle, like a mason jar or bottle with a cork stopper. Place the bottle back into the refrigerator for safe storage.[10]
- Cold-infused oils will last 2-3 weeks when stored in the refrigerator. If you notice a change in the flavor of your oil, throw it away immediately and infuse a new batch.
EditDoing a Heat-Infusion - Heat the oil in a medium saucepan to and remove from heat. On the burner, slowly increase the heat of the oil until it reaches . Then, take the pan off of the burner and set it aside to begin to cool.[11]
- Heating the oil over can change the flavor profile. Try to keep the heat at or just below this temperature for best results.
- Don't begin to add ingredients to the oil as it's heating. This can cook the ingredients and change the overall flavor of the oil.
- Add woody herbs and preserved ingredients to the oil as it cools. Once the olive oil has dropped from it's highest temperature, begin adding your ingredients, like rosemary, thyme, sage, chilis, or dried mushrooms. Use a spoon or spatula to mix them into the oil thoroughly, and then let the oil sit to cool.[12]
- After your initial mixing, try not to disturb the ingredients as they infuse into the oil. This can change the flavor of the oil and cause it to cool too quickly.
- Strain the infused ingredients when the oil has cooled to room temperature. After about an hour, the oil should be around . Pour the oil through a strainer to remove the solid ingredients, and funnel the strained oil into a clean, dry, resealable bottle.[13]
- Keep in mind that the longer the ingredients sit in the oil, the stronger the flavor will be. If you want a stronger flavor, let the oil sit for an extra 1-2 hours before straining and bottling.
- Store heat-infused olive oil at room temperature or in the refrigerator. Since the oil was heated and there are no other ingredients in the jar, it's safe to keep the heat-infused oil on a counter outside of the refrigerator. However, you can also refrigerate this oil if you prefer to use it cold.[14]
- Heat-infused oil will be fresh for 1 month after bottling. If you notice a change in the flavor of the oil, throw away the oil and infuse a new batch.
EditThings You'll Need EditCold-Infusing Your Ingredients - Fresh ingredients
- Olive oil
- Clean, dry, resealable jar or bottle
- Food processor
- Strainer
- Funnel
EditDoing a Heated-Infusion - Medium saucepan
- Hardy or preserved ingredients
- Olive oil
- Clean, dry, resealable jar or bottle
- Strainer
- Funnel
- Make sure your herbs are completely dry before adding them to the oil. If they're wet, a dangerous bacteria called botulism can form.
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Tell if the Rock You Found Might Be a Meteorite Posted: 22 Sep 2018 01:00 AM PDT If you've come across a rock that looks positively out-of-this-world, there's a possibility it may be a meteorite. Although meteorites are relatively rare on Earth, they're not impossible to find in the wild. However, you'll want to make sure your find is indeed a stony or iron rock of cosmic origin and not a piece of ordinary terrestrial material. By checking for common visual and physical markers of a meteorite, you can determine whether the rock you've found is actually extraterrestrial in origin. EditLooking for Visual Identifiers - Discern if the rock is black or rusty brown. If the rock you've found is a freshly fallen meteorite, it will be black and shiny as a result of having burned through the atmosphere. After a long time spent on Earth, however, the iron metal in the meteorite will turn to rust, leaving the meteorite a rusty brown.[1]
- This rusting starts out as small red and orange spots on the surface of the meteorite that slowly expand to cover more and more of the rock. You may still be able to see the black crust even if part of it has begun to rust.[2]
- The meteorite may be black in color but with slight variations (e.g., steely bluish black). However, if the rock you've found isn't at all close to black or brown in color, then it is not a meteorite.
- Confirm that the rock has an irregular shape. Contrary to what you might expect, most meteorites are not round. Instead, they are typically quite irregular, with sides of varying size and shape. Although some meteorites may develop a conical shape, most will not appear aerodynamic once they land.[3]
- Although irregular in shape, most meteorites will have edges that are rounded rather than sharp.[4]
- If the rock you've found is relatively normal in shape, or is round like a ball, it may still be a meteorite. However, the vast majority of meteorites are irregular in shape.
- Determine whether the rock has a fusion crust. As rocks pass through the Earth's atmosphere, their surfaces begin to melt and air pressure forces the molten material back, leaving a featureless, melt-like surface called a fusion crust. If your rock's surface looks like it has melted and shifted, it may be a meteorite.[5]
- A fusion crust will most likely be smooth and featureless, though it may also include ripple marks and "droplets" where molten stone had moved and resolidified.
- If your rock does not have a fusion crust, it is most likely not a meteorite.
- The fusion crust may look like a black eggshell coating the rock.[6]
- Rocks in the desert will sometimes develop a shiny black exterior that looks similar to fusion crust. If you found your rock in a desert environment, consider whether its black surface might be desert varnish.
- Check for flow lines where the surface may have melted. Flow lines are small streaks on the fusion crust from when the crust was molten and was forced backwards. If your rock has a crust-like surface with small streak lines across it, there's a good chance it's a meteorite.[7]
- Flow lines may be small or not immediately apparent to the naked eye, as the lines can be broken or not completely straight. Use a magnifying glass and a discerning eye when looking for flow lines on the surface of a rock.[8]
- Identify any pits and depressions on the rock's surface. Although the surface of a meteorite is generally featureless, it may also include shallow pits and deep cavities that resemble thumbprints. Look for these on your rock to determine both if it's a meteorite and what type of meteorite it is.[9]
- Iron meteorites are particularly susceptible to irregular melting and will have deeper, more defined cavities, whereas stony meteorites may have craters that are smooth like the rock's surface.[10]
- These indentations are technically known as "regmaglypts," though most people who work with meteorites will suffice to call them "thumbprints."
- Make sure the rock isn't porous or full of holes. Although craters and cavities on the surface may indicate that your rock is a meteorite, no meteorite has holes in its interior. Meteorites are dense pieces of solid rock; if the rock you've found is porous or bubbly in appearance, it's unfortunately not a meteorite.[11]
- If the rock you've found has holes in the surface, or appears "bubbly" as if it was once molten, it is definitely not a meteorite.[12]
- Slag from industrial processes is often confused for meteorites, although slag has a porous surface. Other commonly mistaken types of rock include lava rocks and black limestone rocks.
- If you're having trouble discerning between holes and regmaglypts, it may be useful to view side-by-side comparisons of these features online to learn how to spot the difference.[13]
EditTesting the Rock's Physical Properties - Calculate the rock's density if it feels heavier than normal. Meteorites are solid pieces of rock that are usually densely packed with metal. If the rock you've found looks like a meteorite, compare it to other rocks to ensure it's relatively heavy, then calculate its density to determine if it's a meteorite.[14]
- You can calculate the density of the potential meteorite by dividing its weight by its volume. If a rock has a calculated density higher than 3 units, it is much more likely to be a meteorite.[15]
- Use a magnet to see whether the rock is magnetic. Nearly all meteorites are at least somewhat magnetic, even if only weakly. This is due to the high concentration in most meteorites of iron and nickel, which are magnetic. If a magnet is not attracted to your rock, it's almost certainly not a meteorite.[16]
- Because many terrestrial rocks are also magnetic, the magnet test will not definitively prove your rock is a meteorite. However, failing to pass the magnet test is a very strong indication that your rock is probably not a meteorite.
- An iron meteorite will be much more magnetic than a stone meteorite and many will be strong enough to interfere with a compass held close to it.[17]
- Scratch the rock against unglazed ceramic to see if it leaves a streak. A streak test is a good way to test your rock to rule out terrestrial materials. Scrape your rock against the unglazed side of a ceramic tile; if it leaves any streak other than a weak grayish one, it is not a meteorite.[18]
- For an unglazed ceramic tile, you can use the unfinished bottom of a bathroom or kitchen tile, the unglazed bottom of a ceramic coffee mug, or the inside of a toilet tank cover.[19]
- Hematite and magnetite rocks are commonly mistaken for meteorites. Hematite rocks leave a red streak, while magnetite rocks leave a dark gray streak, indicating that they are not meteorites.[20]
- Keep in mind that many terrestrial rocks also do not leave streaks; thus, while the streak test can rule out hematite and magnetite, it will not definitively prove your rock is a meteorite on its own.
- File the surface of the rock and look for shiny metal flakes. Most meteorites contain metal that is visibly shiny under the surface of the fusion crust. Use a diamond file to file a corner of the rock and check the interior for telltale metals on the inside.[21]
- You'll need a diamond file to ground down the surface of a meteorite. The filing process will also take some time and a good bit of effort. If you're unable to do this on your own, you can take it into a laboratory for specialist testing.[22]
- If the interior of the rock is plain, it is most likely not a meteorite.
- Inspect the inside of the rock for small balls of stony material. Most meteorites that fall to Earth are of the type to have small round masses on the inside known as chondrules. These may look like smaller rocks and will vary in size, shape, and color.[23]
- Although chondrules are generally located in the interiors of meteorites, weather erosion may cause them to be visible on the surface of meteorites that have been exposed to the elements for a sufficient amount of time.
- In most cases, you will need to break open the meteorite to check for chondrules.[24]
- Because meteorites tend to have higher concentrations of nickel than terrestrial rocks, you can use a nickel test to determine whether your rock is a meteorite or not. This test can be done at any meteorite testing laboratory and will be more definitive than most of the tests above.
- Meteorites do have bubbles and they are called vesicles. All lunar meteorites are vesicular. Stony and iron meteorites do not have bubbles on the inside. Some stony meteorites have air bubbles on the outside.
- There are plenty of good books and websites out there. Educate yourself.
- Your chances of finding a real meteorite are very small. If you want to find one, deserts are the best places to look.
- Don't try to sell your rock on eBay as a meteorite unless it has been verified by an expert. eBay will not allow you to list something as "may be a meteorite".
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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