| How to Handle an Irate Customer on the Phone Posted: 27 Oct 2017 05:00 PM PDT If you work in customer service or own a business, you will occasionally need to take calls from angry customers. How you handle these calls can determine the quality of reviews you receive and the success of your business. The most important thing to do is stay calm. Make them feel listened to before you offer solutions. If the customer's anger is escalating out of control, try to calm them down, but know when to step away. EditRemaining Calm - Take deep, silent breaths. If you answer a call and know right away that this will be a difficult interaction, take deep breaths to steady yourself. It won't help the situation if you get worked up too, so remind yourself throughout the call to continue breathing deeply. Just don't do it loudly enough for the caller to hear you since this will make your frustration obvious.
- Allow the customer to vent their frustrations. Let the angry client talk through their problems and explain all the reasons they're unhappy. Do not interrupt them since this will just make them angrier. If you have a question, wait until the person is finished to ask it.[1]
- Remind yourself it's not personal. An angry customer probably won't be careful about the specific language they use. When they say, "You messed this up," they usually mean the company messed up. Remember that this isn't about you, and taking it personally will stress you out unnecessarily.[2]
- Encourage them with brief prompts. As they talk, make indications that you are listening, such as "Uh huh," "Okay," and "Oh, wow." This will assure them that you are paying attention and make them feel like you want to hear the whole story.[3]
- Use a level voice. Your instinct may be to raise your voice in response to being yelled at, but this will only make matters worse. It will escalate the conversation to an argument, and the customer won't trust you to help them. Keep your voice level throughout the call, never speaking above a normal conversational tone.[4]
EditOffering Solutions - Summarize the situation in your own words. Show you were listening by repeating the main points of the story back to them in your own words. Start by saying "Let's see if I'm clear on this…" or "So basically what happened was…" This will also help ensure that you and the customer are both on the same page about what the issue is.[5]
- Be sympathetic. Let the customer know that you understand how frustrated they are. Put yourself in their shoes and think about how they must have felt in this situation. Use phrases like "I can imagine how upsetting that must have been" or "That must have been so irritating."[6]
- Apologize when it's appropriate. If the problem was caused by something you or another employee did, apologize to the customer for the mistake. If the problem is a result of something the customer did wrong, you don't need to apologize. You can simply say, "That's not what we want, so let's see what we can do to make it right."[7]
- An example of a possible apology is "I'm so sorry we messed up your order and caused this inconvenience. Let's talk about how we can make it up to you."
- Offer to try to fix the problem. Avoid promising to outright fix the issue since that may not be possible. But always promise to attempt a solution. Use phrases like, "Let me see what I can do" and "I'm going to try to get this sorted out."
- Use positive statements whenever possible. The customer will want to know what you can do for them, not what you can't do. Use positive language instead of words like "no," "can't," or "won't." Even if what they want isn't possible, try saying, "What if we offered you this instead?"[8]
EditDealing with Escalating Anger - Ask questions to calm the customer down. Rather than arguing with the customer, ask questions to focus their mind on the facts. Try asking them to clarify a couple of details from their story, or ask them how they want to see the situation remedied.[9]
- For example, you could ask, "What's your ideal solution to this issue?"
- Stop the customer if they become directly abusive toward you. Allow them to communicate their feelings, but if they begin to call you names or use explicit language, cut them off. Tell them what the consequences will be if they continue speaking in this manner.[10]
- For example, you could say, "Sir, I understand that you're frustrated, but if you continue to use that kind of language I'll have to end the call."
- If you don't own the business, make sure you know ahead of time what your company's policy is regarding abusive language. Your employer should have a written rule about when it's acceptable to disconnect a call.
- Respect the customer's wishes to speak with a supervisor. The customer may be so fed up with the situation that they ask to speak to someone in a position of power. Don't take this personally or get defensive if they demand it; just oblige them and pass them on to your manager.
- If you're the manager or owner, politely tell them so by saying, "I am the manager on duty. I'd like to hear your story and work on a solution with you."
- Thank them for bringing the issue to your attention. Making the customer feel appreciated may help to defuse some of their anger. Show them that you view their call not as an inconvenience, but as an opportunity to improve.
- Try finishing the interaction with a quick "Thank you for letting us know about this. We don't want this to happen again."
- Take time to unwind after the call. Calls like this can be emotionally draining, so if you have the chance, take a break. Step outside to take a quick walk around the block. Head to the break room to grab a cup of coffee and chat with a coworker. Or just take five minutes at your desk to meditate and take deep breaths.[11]
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| How to Get Ink Out of Cashmere Posted: 27 Oct 2017 09:00 AM PDT Your hand slips once and a pen leaves a big mark on your best cashmere sweater. As tempted as you may be to stuff the item in the back of your closet, don't lose hope yet. Ink stains can generally be remedied with cold water and a mild shampoo. If this isn't enough, a little bit of rubbing alcohol or non-acetone nail polish remover may get your cashmere looking as good as the day you bought it. EditWashing with Soap and Water - Lay the cashmere on a clean towel. Spread the cashmere out on a flat surface. Since you'll be cleaning with water, it's not a bad idea to do this in the bathtub or sink. Make sure you pick out a towel you don't mind getting dirty, or use paper towels instead.
- Blot out the ink with an absorbent cloth. Remove as much of the ink as you can before washing. Paper towels work well enough and can be thrown away once they're ink-stained. Press one against the ink stain, but don't rub. Keep doing this until you can't lift anymore ink from the stain.[1]
- Mix some shampoo into cold water. You won't need a lot of water, so get out a small bowl. Fill it with cold water, then add about a teaspoon of a mild shampoo like baby shampoo. You may also use a neutral dish or laundry detergent in place of the shampoo. Look for one that's advertised to handle grease.[2]
- A neutral detergent is one that's mild or pH-neutral. If yours has bleach, brightening agents, or enzymes, it's not safe to use. Look for ones that have the words mild or neutral on the label.
- Make sure the water is cold. Hot water causes stains to set in!
- Dab the soapy water onto the stain. Find a clean cloth, sponge, or cotton ball. Dip it into the water, then press it against the stain. Remember, rubbing spreads the stain, so avoid doing that. Press soapy water all over the stain and let it soak for 10-20 minutes.
- If you don't mind getting the rest of the cashmere wet, it may be easier to wash it in the sink. Submerge it all in cold, soapy water.
- Rinse off the soap with clean water. Place a clean cloth or sponge under cold water until it's damp, then use it to remove the soap. Dab it against the stained area until you're sure all the soap is gone. If you're having a hard time with this, you can rinse the entire cashmere object under cold water.[3]
- Press a towel against the back side of the stain. If the stain is still there, flip the cashmere over. The stain should be face down with a towel or cloth under it. Get a second clean cloth or paper towel and hold it behind the stain. Now press down on it to force the ink out.[4]
- Move the bottom cloth as it fills with ink. As you push out the ink, the bottom towel will absorb it. Check on it after every press. If the towel looks a little dirty, reposition it so the cashmere's stain rests on a clean portion. This prevents the cashmere from reabsorbing the ink, so stay diligent.[5]
- Lay the cashmere flat on a towel. Leave it exposed to the air but out of direct sunlight. To speed up drying, you can roll up the towel to press out excess moisture. This won't harm the fabric as long as you avoid twisting or wringing it. Afterwards, lay the cashmere flat on a dry towel until it's as good as new.[6]
- If you try machine drying, stick to a short cycle on a cool temperature setting. Consider placing the cashmere in a laundry bag to prevent twisting.
- Avoid hanging the cashmere if possible, since gravity will cause it to stretch.
EditTreating Stubborn Stains - Absorb ink with baking soda. Baking soda is a handy tool for lifting stains. Sprinkle it until the stain is covered by a thin layer. Now wait for the baking soda to do its magic. After a few minutes, it'll appear dry and you can brush it off the cashmere. It won't have much effect on dried stains, so move on to other treatments.
- Dab rubbing alcohol into the stain. Get a clean towel, sponge, or cotton ball and dip it into a little bit of rubbing alcohol. Press it onto the stain rather than rubbing it in. You should notice that some of the ink transfers to the towel. Repeat dabbing the rubbing alcohol on with clean portions of the towel until the stain vanishes completely.[7]
- Some hair sprays can be used in place of rubbing alcohol. This works if alcohol is a significant ingredient in the product. Many modern hair sprays don't include much alcohol, so they won't help here.
- Blot the stain with non-acetone nail polish remover. Before you apply nail polish to your best cashmere, check the labeling. The product should not contain acetone. If yours doesn't, pour a little bit of it on a clean towel, sponge, or cotton ball. Dab it on and repeat with more as needed. With any luck, even the toughest stain will fade.[8]
- Always test out a cleaning solution on a hidden spot. This way, you won't end up ruining good cashmere.
- Bleach should never be used, since it wears out cashmere threats.
EditThings You'll Need EditCleaning General Ink Stains - Clean towels
- Mild shampoo or detergent
- Cold water
EditTreating Stubborn Stains - Baking soda
- Rubbing alcohol
- Non-acetone nail polish remover
- Cotton balls or towels
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| How to Melt Aluminum Posted: 27 Oct 2017 01:00 AM PDT Aluminum is one of the most heavily used metals in modern manufacturing. Its durability and plasticity make it an ideal material for multiple functions. Because of this, aluminum is a great metal for DIY forging. With the right information and materials, forging aluminum can be a fun hobby or a source of extra income. EditMelting Aluminum in a Small Foundry - Position your foundry. Set your foundry in a metal stand or on an insulated surface (like gravel, sand, or bare earth; concrete could crack from spills). Make sure that the surface can withstand the more than 1220 degrees Fahrenheit (660 degrees Celsius) needed to melt the aluminum. Avoid any wooden or plastic surfaces because they will melt or burn. For the best results, set your foundry in a sturdy metal stand that will not easily tip over.[1]
- Place the crucible in the foundry. Make sure that the crucible is in the center of the foundry. A steel crucible works the best for melting aluminum.[2]
- If you're using a charcoal-fueled foundry (instead of propane), place a layer of charcoal in the bottom of the foundry and set your crucible on top of it. Then fill in the space between the insulation and the crucible with more charcoal. Placing a layer of charcoal under the crucible will help it heat up quicker and more evenly.
- Connect the propane torch (or blower tube). If you're using a propane-fueled foundry, connect the included torch end (with attached fuel and air lines) to the opening in the side of the foundry. Follow the instructions provided with your foundry (charcoal-fueled foundries are a somewhat safer DIY project).
- For a charcoal-fueled foundry, set up your bellows after placing the charcoal and crucible inside. Place the steel end of the blower tube into the foundry. You can blow into the plastic end to maintain air flow or attach an electric hair dryer, which will provide a more constant flow of air.[3]
- Because it is at an angle, place something (like one or a few bricks) under the propane/blower tube to prop it up. This will keep it from breaking or damaging the foundry.
- Light the foundry. For a propane-fueled foundry, turn on the gas and follow the lighting instructions provided with the unit. For a charcoal-fueled foundry, a propane blowtorch is the quickest lighting method, but even a match will do. As the coals heat, blow through the blow tube or turn the hair dryer on low. Place the lid on the foundry and let it warm up.[4]
- Let the foundry heat for about 10 minutes before placing aluminum inside of it.
- The temperature in the foundry will need to be above 1220 degrees Fahrenheit (660 degrees Celsius).
- Once the crucible is glowing orange, the foundry is hot enough to melt aluminum.
- Place aluminum in the crucible. Once the foundry is hot enough, you can begin melting aluminum. You can choose to either: remove the lid and place uncrushed cans in the crucible, or leave the lid on and place crushed cans in the crucible through the vent hole. Both methods work well, but if you leave the lid on, less of the metal will be oxidized. The cans will melt in a matter of seconds, so you need to quickly add more cans to the crucible.[5]
- It is important to quickly add new cans in order to create a pool of molten aluminum. This is necessary to prevent the cans from being overheated and turning into a gas, a process known as oxidization.
- You can put the aluminum in the crucible while using just proper heat-resistant gloves, but using long metal tongs as well is safer.
- Remove the crucible after skimming off surface slag. Use a metal rod or tongs to skim slag (thick clumps of non-aluminum materials) off the top of the liquefied aluminum. Then, with a pair of metal tongs, slowly remove the crucible from the foundry. To prevent oxidization, be sure to remove the molten aluminum from the foundry at least three minutes after the last piece of aluminum melted.[6]
- Separate the pure aluminum from any excess slag. Once you have melted enough aluminum to fill your crucible, you will want to remove any remaining impurities. Things like aluminum cans will have lots of other materials in them (plastics and other metals) that will create slag or dross. The slag will form a thick clumpy layer on top of your pure molten aluminum. The easiest way to remove the slag is to use your tongs to slowly pour out the molten aluminum into a steel mold, and then tap the slag out of the crucible onto a square concrete paver placed on sand or bare earth.[7]
- Keeping the crucible clean allows you to melt more aluminum quickly.
- Pour the molten aluminum into steel molds. You can let the aluminum ingots air cool and then dump them out of the molds, or use water to speed up the process. To water cool the aluminum, take your tongs and place the ingot and mold into water for about 10 seconds. After soaking in the water, the ingot should be cool enough to touch. However, you should use your tongs to avoid being burned.[8]
- The pure aluminum ingots can now be reused for later castings and will not produce as much slag as before.
- Empty out the foundry after it cools completely. When you're done melting aluminum, turn off the torch and/or blower (according to the provided instructions) and allow the foundry to air cool in place for several hours. When the foundry has cooled completely, disconnect and store the torch/blower components, and scoop out any charcoal ash or other debris from the foundry's interior.[9]
- Supervise the cooling process, especially early on, when the foundry is hot enough to ignite items like wood, paper, and fabric.
EditMaking a DIY Aluminum Foundry - Make the outer body. Purchase a 12" x 12" (30 x 30 cm), 10 quart (9.5 liter) steel bucket with an open top. This common steel bucket can be purchased at most home and garden stores. [10]
- Because of the heat you will generate, it is important that you use a steel bucket. Other materials may melt or become brittle under the intense heat generated by your foundry.
- Mix the materials for the lining. In a five quart (5 liter) or larger bucket, mix 21 scoops of plaster of Paris, 21 scoops of play sand, and 15 scoops of water (the scoop should hold roughly one cup or 250 ml). Quickly stir the ingredients together by hand. It is important to moisten all of the dry powder and work out any lumps. After a few minutes of stirring, the mixture should be runny and a uniform color. [11]
- Because the mixture will set in roughly 15 minutes, it is important that you do the step with some urgency.
- Pour the insulation into the bucket. Once you have worked out any lumps, slowly pour the insulation mixture into the steel bucket. The fluid should fill the bucket, leaving about three inches (8 cm) of space at the top.[12]
- To avoid creating a mess, pour slowly to limit splattering.
- Form the center of the foundry. Fill a 2.5 quart (2.5 liter) bucket with water or sand and place it in the center of the insulation mix. Slowly push the bucket into the mix. Move the bucket up and down a few times to help level the mixture before it sets. Finally, hold the bucket still for two to three minutes and let the mixture set around it.[13]
- Once the plaster has hardened, the small bucket should stay in place once you remove your hands.
- Let the plaster mix sit for one hour to harden.
- Clean off any splattered plaster from around the top edges of the steel bucket.
- Remove the inner bucket. After the plaster has hardened, use a pair of pliers or channel locks to remove the plastic bucket you used to create the opening. Grip the bucket with your pliers and twist it in on itself. With enough torque, the bucket should cleanly pop free from the plaster mix.[14]
- Drill a hole for the air supply port. In order to promote air flow, you will need to drill a hole in your foundry for a blower tube. Use a 1-3/8" (3.5 cm) hole saw, attached to an electric drill, to cut a hole in the top line of the bucket (about three inches [7.5 cm] from the lid). Once you have cut through the bucket, position the blade at a roughly 30-degree angle and drill. This hole should be the perfect size to accommodate a one-inch (2.5 cm) steel tubing, which will act as your blower tube.[15]
- The hole saw can found at your local hardware store. Buy one that is specifically designed for cutting through metal. Ask a salesperson if you're not sure.
- Creating an angled air supply port will prevent molten aluminum from flowing out of the foundry if your crucible fails.
- Make a blower tube. Take a 1" x 12" (2.5 x 30 cm) steel pipe and screw on a 1" PVC coupling at one end. Once you have attached the coupling to the steel pipe, slide a 1" x 24" (2.5 x 60 cm) PVC pipe into the smooth end of the coupling. The coupling should have a threaded end for the steel pipe and a smooth end for the PVC pipe.[16]
- The blower pipe should fit smoothly into the air supply port, but not so snugly that it is difficult to slide it in and out of the hole.
- Create a lid. Fill a 5 quart (5 liter) bucket with 10 scoops of plaster of Paris, 10 scoops of sand, and 7 scoops of water (at roughly one cup or 250 ml per scoop). Stand up two 4" (10 cm) U-bolts in the plaster mixture, placing the ends with the nuts down in the mix. Let the plaster set for an hour. Once it has set, you can simply pop the lid out of the bucket. Finally, drill a hole in the top of the lid using an electric drill and a 3" (7.5 cm) hole cutting saw.[17]
- The vent hole will relieve pressure inside the foundry and allow you to add metal without taking off the lid.
- Try to make the lid hole the same diameter as your crucible. This will help prevent heat loss when you melt your aluminum.
EditPreparing to Melt Your Aluminum - Find proper pieces of aluminum. The best sources for scrap aluminum are old machine parts. Car cylinder heads, transmission cases, water pump housings and pistons are all great examples. More common sources are things like beer and pop cans, furniture frames, home siding, window frames, and turkey and pie pans. However, these sources tend to be weaker alloys that have lots of impurities, which means that they create more slag and oxidize quickly.[18]
- An easy way to melt aluminum cans and prevent oxidizing is to add them to a pool of already molten aluminum.
- Wear proper safety equipment. When you are working around extremely high temperatures, it is important to wear proper safety gear. When handling molten metal, you should wear a thick and long-sleeved shirt, pants, an apron, a face shield or glasses, and leather gloves. These things will prevent molten metal from burning your skin. Because molten aluminum can give off noxious gasses, you should also wear a respirator.[19]
- Find an open or well-ventilated space. When working with molten aluminum, some alloys will give off noxious fumes. Because of this you will want to work in a well-ventilated space or outdoors. This will also help keep you cool while working around extreme heat and avoid dehydration or heat stroke.[20]
- If you begin feeling sick, have a headache, or are dizzy, turn down the foundry and take a break. Go to a cool place and drink some water.
- Use proper tools. Before you begin melting aluminum, make sure that you have the necessary tools for handling molten metal. You will need a pair of metal tongs, a metal strainer or stirring rod, a crucible, and a foundry. Things like the foundry and crucible can be made at home or bought at a store or online.[21]
- Be safe. Because of the relatively low temperature necessary to melt aluminum, it can be melted in a variety of unsafe methods outside of a foundry. Avoid melting aluminum in large bonfires or on BBQ grills. These methods are less controlled and can lead to a fire or injury.[22]
- If you are new to working with molten metals, be sure to work with a more experienced person before attempting to melt aluminum.
EditThings You'll Need - store-bought or DIY foundry
- crucible
- fuel source (charcoal or propane)
- torch and/or air blower
- metal tongs
- metal stirring rod
- insulated (e.g., sand or dirt) work surface
- ventilated work area
- thick, long-sleeved shirt and long pants
- heavy-duty work boots
- heat-resistant leather gloves and apron
- face shield or glasses
- respirator (optional if working outdoors)
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