| How to Preserve Pinecones Posted: 28 Sep 2017 05:00 PM PDT Nothing can be preserved "forever," but there are ways to preserve things to help them last a little longer. Pinecones often come dirty and filled with tiny bugs, which can cause them to deteriorate sooner. With a little bit of cleaning and drying, however, you can help them last longer. You can preserve them even further by sealing them with varnish, paint, or wax. EditSoaking the Pinecones - Collect some pinecones. You can use ones that are already opened, or you can use ones that are closed. Keep in mind that if you use closed pinecones, they will open up during the baking process.
- Store bought pinecones already come cleaned and ready to use.
- Remove any debris caught inside the pinecones. This includes things like seeds, moss, and pine needles. You can do this with a pair of tweezers or a brush. Don't worry about being too precise here, however; the next step will help clean the pinecones further.[1]
- Prepare a solution of water and vinegar. Fill a sink, tub, or bucket with two parts water and one part white vinegar. How much water and vinegar you end up using depends on the size of your container and how many pinecones you are going to soak.[2]
- You can also use a solution of 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of water and 1 teaspoon of mild dish soap.[3]
- Soak the pinecones for 20 to 30 minutes. You need the pinecones to remain submerged during this step. If they don't stay down, you can weigh them down with a wet, heavy towel, a pot lid, or even a dinner plate.[4] The pinecones may close up during this step. Don't worry, they will open back up again.[5]
- Transfer the pinecones to a sheet of newspaper and let them dry overnight. Be sure to leave them in a well-ventilated area, as this will help increase airflow. If you don't have any newspaper on hand, you can use paper bags or an old towel instead.[6]
EditBaking the Pinecones - Preheat your oven to 200 to 250°F (94 to 122°C).
- Transfer the pinecones to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. If you don't have any parchment paper, you can use aluminum foil instead. Leave some space between each pinecone. This will allow the hot air to flow better between them. It will also give them room to open up.
- Bake the pinecones until they open up. This will take about 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes, but it may take longer.[7] Check the pinecones frequently so that they don't catch on fire. They are ready when they fully open and shiny.
- Transfer the pinecones to a wire cooling rack. Use a pair of oven mitts, tongs, or even a soup ladle to do this. Be careful while moving the pinecones; they will be very fragile.
- Allow the pinecones to cool. Once they are cool, you can paint them, display them, or seal them further. They will have a shiny coating on them, which is just melted sap. This can act as a natural preservative.[8] If you want to preserve them further, read on to the next section.
EditFinishing the Pinecones - Prepare your workspace and decide on a finishing method. Whether you are spraying your pinecone or dipping it in paint, you'll want to cover your counter or table with newspaper. If you are using a spray sealer, it would be even better to step outside. Once you have your space set up, choose a sealing method from the list below.
- Spray the pinecones if you want something quick and easy. Choose a non-yellowing spray varnish. Lay the pinecones on their sides, then spray them using an even coat. Wait for the pinecones to dry, then rotate them and spray the other side. Let the sealer dry before applying another coat.
- Spray sealers come in many different finishes: matte, satin, and glossy. Choose one that you like the best.
- If you don't have any spray varnish, you can try using hairspray instead.[9]
- Use a marine varnish if you want something more durable. Purchase a marine varnish from a hardware or home improvement store. Put on a pair of disposable gloves and hold the pinecone by the tip. Use a cheap, disposable brush with stiff bristles to apply the varnish to the pinecone, except for the bottom. Let the varnish dry, then hold it by its sides, and coat the bottom and tip. Let the pinecone dry on its side.
- You can apply more than one coat of marine varnish, but you have to let the previous coat dry fully.
- Alternatively, you can tie some thread to the top of the pinecone, then dip it into the varnish. Lift it out, and let any excess varnish drip off, then tie the string somewhere so that the pinecone can hang dry.
- Dip the pinecones in paint or varnish if you want a thicker coating. Wrap some string or thin wire around the top of a pinecone. Dip the pinecone into a can of paint or varnish. Lift the pinecone out, and hold it about the can for about 1 minute to let the excess paint/varnish drip back. Use the string or wire to hang the pinecone some place so that it can dry.[10]
- Keep a newspaper or tray under the pinecone to catch any drips of paint or varnish.
- Keep in mind that this method may cause the pinecones to close up again.[11]
- If the paint or varnish is too thick, thin it with water. Use 4 parts paint or varnish to 1 part water.[12]
- Dip the pinecones in beeswax as an alternative to varnish or paint. Melt enough solid beeswax in a crockpot to fully submerge the pinecone. Tie string around the tip of the pinecone, then use it to dip the pinecone into the melted wax. Lift the pinecone out, then dip it into a bucket of cold water.[13] You may have to repeat this step a few times to get an even coverage.[14]
- The more you dip the pinecone into wax, the more visible the wax will become. Your pinecone may end up yellow or white.
- Allow the sealer to dry and cure completely before using or displaying the pinecone. Read the label on your can of sealer for specific drying times and instructions.
- Most store-bought pinecones are already cleaned, treated for pests, and preserved.
- Use your preserved pinecones in wreaths or as vase fillers.
- Tie string to small pinecones and use them as ornaments.
- Display large pinecones on fireplace mantels or on tables.
- Keep sealed pinecones away from heat and open flame. The spray sealer/varnish is flammable.
- Do not leave any pinecones unattended in the oven. They can heat up quickly and catch on fire.
EditThings You'll Need - Pinecones
- Water
- White vinegar
- Bucket
- Baking sheet
- Aluminum foil or parchment paper
- Spray sealer or marine varnish
- Disposable plastic gloves (if using marine varnish)
- Cheap, disposable paintbrush (if using marine varnish)
- Crockpot and beeswax (if dipping)
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| How to Build Stairs Posted: 28 Sep 2017 09:00 AM PDT Stairs are an essential part of many construction projects, from decks to interiors. It can seem daunting to think of making your own, but they're actually made of just three main parts: stringers, treads, and risers. Stringers are diagonal 2x12s that support people's weight as they walk up the stairs. Treads are the top baseboards onto which you step, and risers are placed perpendicularly under each tread. Measure and cut the stringers accurately, and the other parts will mostly fall into place. EditMaking the Preliminary Measurements - Measure the height of the area where you will install the stairs. This is also called the total rise. If you don't plan to make the top step level with the area where the stairs begin, be sure to account for this gap in your measurement/[1]
- For example, if you are building stairs to go up to a deck, and you measure from the ground to the top of the deck, then this is the total rise.
- If you want the stairs to stop from the top of the deck, however, count the total rise as .
- Divide the total rise by the typical rise per step. This will give you the total number of steps on your stairs. The typical rise per step is about 7 inches (17.8 cm), but you'll probably use a slightly different height for the actual rise.[2]
- For example, if your total rise is 95 inches (241 cm), divide it by 7 inches to get 13.53. Round down to get the number of steps: 13.
- Divide the total rise by the number of steps to get the actual rise per step. Remember this will probably be slightly different than the typical rise height. Finding the actual rise per step will ensure that your steps are all the same height, no matter what your overall rise is.[3]
- To continue with the same example, divide 95 inches (241 cm) by 13 steps to get 7 and 5/16 inches (18.5 cm). On your stringer, each step will rise 7 and 5/16 inches.
- Establish the run of each step. The run (tread width) of each step should be no less than 9 inches (23 cm) and realistically at least 10 inches (25 cm). This allows enough space for the average foot to step comfortably and safely.[4]
- As a rule of thumb, the width of the treads and risers added together should equal between 16 and 18 inches (40 and 45 cm).
- So, if your riser is 7 inches (17.8 cm) tall, your tread should be anywhere from 9 to 11 inches (23 to 28 cm) long.
- Find the total run of the staircase. The total run is the horizontal distance the stairs will travel from beginning to end. To find this, simply multiply the total number of steps by the run of each step.
- For example, the total run in our hypothetical example is : 13 total steps x 10 inches (tread width) each = 130 inches (330 cm) total run.
- Decide if your stairs need landings. The longest boards suitable for building stairs will probably be 16 feet (4.88 meters) long. This means you will probably max out at about every 14 steps. If your stairs have a long rise and run, you can install landings. However, you can install landings on any staircase, if you prefer.
- If your staircase will have landings, consider each section of stairs as its own mini staircase.
- Calculate the length of the stringers. The stringers are the pieces of wood that will run diagonally underneath the length of the steps to hold them up. These are what your risers and treads will eventually be attached to. Determine their length the same way you determine the hypotenuse of a right triangle in geometry:[5]
- Multiply the horizontal length (run) by itself, multiply the height by itself, and add the two results together. Then, find the square root of this sum.
- Keeping with the previous example, sqr(130 x 130) + (95 x 95) = 161 inches (409 cm)
- Determine how you will attach the stairs to the existing structure. If the stairs will sit flush with the vertical face of the structure, attach your stringers to the existing framework. However, if the stairs won't sit flush with the existing structure (such as if they will attach to a deck with an overhang), be sure to either create a secondary support system or modify the tops of your stringers.[6]
- For example, if your stairs will mount beneath an overhang of a deck, making sure that the top step isn't level with the top of the deck.
- Instead, make the total rise slightly shorter and attach support posts to the top of the stringers.
- Count how many stringers you will need. To prevent your steps from sagging or bowing as you step on them, a wide staircase will need plenty of stringers underneath to keep it evenly supported. A very narrow staircase might be able to get away with having only two stringers, but it's best to start at three and work your way up as necessary.[7]
- For safety reasons, the stringers should be spaced approximately 16 inches (40.6 cm) apart.
- Wider staircases are generally preferable to narrower ones because they are much easier and more comfortable to navigate.
EditCutting the Stringers - Lay out a sufficiently long piece of 2x12-inch (5cmx3m) lumber. Don't cut it down to length just yet. It will sit at an angle that depends on the height and depth of your steps, and the ends will have to be modified.[8]
- Mark a carpenter's square to the height and depth of your steps. In our example, you would need to mark it at 7 and 5/16 inches (18.5 cm) on one side by 10 inches (25 cm) on the other. Be sure you know which side corresponds with the height (riser) and which side corresponds with the depth (tread).[9]
- Look for stair gauges at a hardware store. These are small knobs you can attach to your carpenter's square at the right measurements to make marking and cutting a breeze.
- Modify the top of the stringer to account for the overall angle. This angle will depend on the size of your steps. To do this properly:[10]
- Place the carpenter's square over one corner of the lumber. Lay the side marking the height along the end of the lumber and the side marking the step depth along the length of the lumber.
- Draw a line between the step-height and step-depth marks. This line marks the horizontal top of your stringer.
- Mark the line so that its length is equivalent to the depth of one stair.
- Use the square to draw a perpendicular line from the end of the board to the spot you just marked.
- Cut along these lines.
- Measure and mark each step along the piece of lumber. Using the horizontal top of the stringer as a reference point, measure and draw a line down a distance equal to the height of one step. Then measure and draw a line across a distance equal to the depth of the step. Repeat this, moving downward until you've drawn the necessary number of steps.[11][12]
- Use a circular saw or hand saw to cut the step notches. If using a circular power saw, cut to the edge of the marks on the stringers. Stop saw cuts 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch short of the opposite lines, then use a handsaw or jigsaw to finish.[13]
- Square off the bottom of the stringer so that it will sit flush with the ground. Draw a line parallel to the top of the last step notch, and perpendicular to the side of it (where the bottom riser will eventually go). Cut this away to make the bottom of the stringer flush with the ground.[14]
- Test the stringer by setting it in place. Make sure the height is accurate. The stringer should sit flush with the ground or floor and also with the point at the top where it will attach to the existing structure.
- Use the first stringer as a template off of which to base the next stringers. Lay the first completed stringer down on a 2x12 and simply trace the outline of the first stringer onto the other 2x12s. Then cut as necessary.
EditAssembling the Staircase - Install the stringers. There are many ways to attach the tops of the stringers to the structure. One easy way is to screw metal joist hangers to the floor joists or deck supports. Drive screws through the holes in the joist hangers, putting one edge flush with the end of the stringer and the other against the joist.
- Set the bottoms of the stringers on a firm footing like concrete, wood flooring, or even a block of treated lumber on top of gravel (for outside stairs).[15]
- Secure and stabilize the stringers by installing risers (toe boards). Stringers are usually made from 1x6-inch (2.54 x 15.4 cm) wood. Though you can do without them, screwing these planks vertically between each step will make the stairs look nicer, and last longer.[16]
- Cut 1x6s to the width of your stairs. Secure each stringer with 2 1/2 in. (6 cm) screws.
- Install the treads. Cut lumber to be at or slightly longer than the tread run in width, and as long as the stairs are wide (or just wider, if you prefer a slight overhang on the ends of your stairs. Secure the treads to the steps of the stringers with 2 1/2 in. (6 cm) screws over each stringer.[17]
- For instance, you could cut 1x10 lumber to the width of the stairs, and use this for your treads.
- For a special touch, use two boards and leave a 1/8 1/4 in (approximately 0.5 cm) between them. For instance, you could cut 1x5 boards to the width of the stairs, and install two on each step, with a gap between them.
- Attach trim boards to the outer stringers (optional). Trim boards can give your stairs a little more class by covering up the ends of the risers and treads. Cut 2x12 boards to the same length and angle as your stringers, but do not cut step notches into them. Place the cut lumber over the ends of your stairs, and fix into place with 2 1/2 in. (6 cm) screws.[18]
- Varnish, paint, or seal your stairs if necessary. Consider treating the wood against the elements, especially if the stairs will be outdoors. Even if you're building indoor-use stairs, finishing them will be a safeguard against everyday wear and tear, and beautify the end product.
- Almost any varnish, stain, or paint will work just fine for stairs.
- Always check building codes that apply in your area. These may stipulate particular minimums or maximums for step runs and rises, the number of stringers that are necessary, etc.
EditThings You'll Need - Circular saw or crosscut hand saw
- Carpenter framing square
- Stair gauges
- Corded or cordless drill
- Screws (at least 2 1/2 in. / 6 cm)
- Metal floor joist hangers
- 2x10-inch (5.1x25.4 cm.) planks for stringers
- 2x6-inch (5.1x15.4 cm.) planks for steps
- 1x6-inch (2.54x15.4 cm) planks for toe and foot boards
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| How to Prepare Henna Hair Color Posted: 28 Sep 2017 01:00 AM PDT By mixing henna powder with a slightly acidic liquid, you can dye your hair a temporary shade of red. Henna hair dye is safer on your hair than synthetic dyes because it contains no harsh chemicals. Before you apply henna to your hair, you will need to choose the right henna for your hair so it blends well with your natural color. You'll also need to learn how to mix henna and watch for signs of dye release after it has set. EditChoosing the Right Henna - Pick henna that will blend well with your natural hair color. Henna does not change your hair color entirely but instead blends with it. As the dye fades, it will return to your natural color. Choose a color you think would blend well with your natural hair color. If you have dark hair, choose a darker, richer henna color. If your hair is light, keep in mind that you may need to dye it multiple times to darken it.[1]
- Grey or white hair will dye closely to the color created by the dye. You will, however, have to apply the henna evenly to avoid darkening one part of your hair more than another.
- Most henna will dye your hair in tints of red. Darker henna (indigo henna) will dye your hair black, but still may have a red tint. Even blonde henna dye will result in a strawberry blonde.[2]
- Choose henna with a green, earthy color. Pure henna, when dry, will be a color between green and brown. It will also smell like grass clippings. Do not buy henna in other colors, or henna that smells like chemicals. Henna with either of those qualities may have been mixed with artificial hair dye.[3]
- Use indigo henna as an alternative for dark hair. Although indigo henna is not pure henna (as it is mixed with indigo powder), it is safe to use and ideal for darker hair colors. Indigo henna will dye your hair a deep black with tints of red. Unlike most henna, indigo henna has to be used quickly after mixing. Plan to use the indigo henna the same day that you mix it.[4]
- Make sure that your indigo henna does not contain PPD, which can be a skin irritant.[5]
- Make sure your henna is body art quality. Body art quality henna does not contain any additives or chemicals. This henna also contains more lawsone, a molecule that rinses out of your hair better and has a richer hair color. If you want to use henna alongside synthetic hair dye, you can dye over body art quality hair dye without damaging your hair.[6]
- If the henna is body art quality, it will say so on the package. Do not buy henna if it does not say this on the label.
EditMixing the Henna - Gather your henna and any desired additives. Besides your henna, you can also combine additives for different effects. If you dislike the smell of henna, you can add essential oils or rosewater for a pleasant scent and better setting dye.[7] For smoother henna, add sugar.[8] Lemon juice or vinegar can create brighter colors.[9]
- If you do not want to change the color or properties of the henna, just add water with a dash of lemon to oxidize the dye.
- Pour the henna powder and liquids into a bowl. Pour the henna into a bowl and gradually incorporate the liquid. How much liquid you need will depend on the henna box you purchased. Add a little at a time to avoid making your henna too watery.
- Consult the henna packaging for specifics on how much liquid to add.
- Henna is messy and will stain most surfaces. Wear gloves while you mix the henna, and wipe it immediately off of anything it spills on.
- Mix until the henna's consistency resembles yogurt. Continue mixing the henna and slowly adding liquids until your henna meets the right consistency. When your henna is finished mixing, it should be somewhere between the consistency of cake batter and yogurt.[10]
- Cover the henna bowl with plastic wrap. After you have mixed the henna and found an ideal consistency, wrap the henna bowl tightly in plastic wrap. Wrapping your bowl will allow your henna to set and oxidize. Your henna will now need to undergo dye release, where it will darken in color
EditMonitoring Dye Release - Let the henna paste sit overnight. Let the bowl sit in room temperature as it releases the dye. Make certain that the plastic wrap is tightly covered to quicken the process. If you do not have time to wait overnight, put the henna in a closed pot over a stove for 1-2 hours. Take the temperature of the henna and make sure it's around 90°F (or 32°C). Any hotter, and your henna may not have ideal consistency.[11]
- If you are using indigo henna dye, use it after mixing. Indigo henna has a shorter oxidation time.
- Dye release will occur best in room temperature. Do not place the henna in the refrigerator or freezer until after it has exhibited dye release.
- Check for dye release. You will be able to spot dye release by the surface. Your henna should be a dark brown color (or black, if using indigo dye) and have liquid pooling at the top. You can check the surface by pulling back the top layer with a spoon. If the top layer is darker than the bottom, your henna is ready to use.
- To test for dye release, put your paste in a plastic baggie. Put the baggie on top of a white paper towel. Dye molecules are small enough that they will slip through the plastic. If your paper towel turns slightly orange after a few minutes, your henna is exhibiting dye release.[12]
- Test the color before you dye your hair. Before you apply the mixture to your hair, put a small amount of henna paste on a spoon. Remove some of your hair from your hairbrush, and let the henna sit on the hair for several hours. After the henna has dyed the hair sample, decide whether the color is ideal for you. If not, prepare a new mixture.
- Use your henna within three to four days. Unless you are using indigo henna (which lasts for a shorter amount of time), your henna will last in the refrigerator for three or four days. If you need it to last longer, you can freeze it. Frozen henna can last up to several months with the same freshness as newly-mixed henna.[13]
- Keep the henna covered with plastic wrap while in the fridge or freezer to avoid drying your henna out.
- Henna will mostly dye hair in shades or tints of red. If you do not want a reddish tint in your hair, you may want an alternative way to dye your hair.
- Henna will dye wet hair best. Dampen your hair before you apply the henna.
- Henna cannot lighten your hair. Do not use a lighter henna on dark brown or black hair.
- Lemon juice is acidic and can dry out hair. Mix the lemon juice with other liquids (like water or essential oils) if you apply it to your henna.
EditThings You'll Need - Henna powder
- Bowl
- Spoon
- Lemon juice (optional)
- Sugar (optional)
- Essential oils (optional)
- Plastic wrap
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