| How to Make an Infinity Scarf Posted: 29 Aug 2021 05:00 PM PDT Infinity scarves are one of the coziest trends around. These long scarves are connected at the ends so you can loop them into an infinity symbol or figure 8 shape before you pop the loops onto your head. Sewing an infinity scarf is a great beginner project since you're only stitching a few seams, but you can also turn an existing scarf into a no-sew infinity scarf. If you're more comfortable working with yarn, try crocheting or knitting your own infinity scarf. [Edit]Basic Infinity Scarf - Choose stylish fabric to make your infinity scarf. Buy a length of fabric from a wide bolt. Look for a comfortable fabric in a color that you like. If you plan on washing the scarf, read the care label to learn if you can toss it in the washing machine and dryer.
- If you'll be wearing the infinity scarf during chillier weather, pick a heavy, textured fabric. For lighter weather, choose a softer, lightweight fabric like cotton.
- If you're using cotton fabric, wash and dry it to preshrink the material before you cut it.
- Cut the fabric so it's long. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut a piece of fabric so it's a long rectangle that's long. If your fabric is wider than cut it until it's wide, which is the standard width of fabric bolts.[1]
- To make a fuller infinity scarf, wrap the fabric around your neck a few times and trim 1 end until the scarf is as short as you want.
- Fold the fabric in half lengthwise and pin the raw edges together. Lay the strip of fabric flat so the pattern faces up. Then, fold the raw edges over and line them up with the bottom layer of fabric. Push sewing pins through the fabric edges every few inches to keep the material in place.[2]
- The wrong side of the fabric should be facing up, which means that the right sides with the pattern are touching.
- Use a sewing machine to straight stitch along the length of the scarf. Start sewing at 1 end of the pinned edge and sew across to the other end. Leave a seam allowance as you sew. The seam allowance is the space between the edge of your fabric and the seam line you're stitching.[3]
- If you're using a stretchy fabric, set your machine to make zigzag stitches instead of straight stitches. The zigzag stitches are more flexible so they won't break if you pull on the scarf.
- Pull the ends of the tube together and pin the edges. Reach your hand down through the fabric tube you just made and grab the end. Pull it up towards the other end of the tube. Then, line up the short ends so the seams are touching and insert sewing pins around the edge of the tube.[4]
- Don't flip all of the tube right side out or the seams on the short ends of the tube will be visible on your finished scarf. This is why it's important to leave a gap when you sew the short ends; you'll reach in and completely turn the fabric right side out.
- Straight stitch around the end of the tube and leave a gap. Straight stitch around the edge you just pinned and leave a seam allowance. Keep sewing around the edge of the tube until you're away from where you started sewing.[5]
- Remove the pins as you work so you don't accidentally sew over them and damage your machine.
- Pull the scarf right side out and slip stitch the gap closed. Reach into the gap you left and flip the patterned side of the fabric out. Then, thread a sewing needle with matching thread and insert the needle through 1 edge of the gap. To slip stitch, sew back and forth between the seam allowance until you reach the stitches that you sewed with the machine.[6]
- To wear your new infinity scarf, twist the scarf in the middle to make 2 loops and stack the loops. Stick your head through them and fluff the scarf around your neck.
[Edit]No-Sew Infinity Scarf - Lay a T-shirt flat and cut off the bottom seam. Use an old or new T-shirt that's the color you'd like your infinity scarf to be. Spread it flat and smooth out any wrinkles. Then, take a pair of sharp scissors and carefully cut across the bottom hem to remove about of fabric.[7]
- Check to see that you're cutting through both layers of the shirt. If your scissors aren't sharp enough to cut through 2 layers of material, cut across the top layer and turn the shirt over so you can keep cutting.
- Cut across the middle of the shirt just below the armpits. You don't need the sleeves or neckline for your scarf, so cut across the shirt at the armpit level. If you'd like a narrow scarf, cut lower towards the bottom.[8]
- The higher you cut, the wider or thicker your scarf will be. For a really skinny infinity scarf, cut across the shirt closer to the belly.
- Stretch the tube of fabric and twist it into a figure 8. Take the tube between both of your hands and pull it apart. Keep pulling so you see the fabric stretch and curl slightly at the edges. Then, twist it in the center to make a figure 8 or infinity shape that you can fold in half and slip over your head.[9]
- If you made a skinny infinity scarf, you could pair it with another skinny infinity scarf in a complementary color.
[Edit]Yarn Infinity Scarf - Choose a bulky yarn and get out a crochet hook or needle. Most infinity scarves are full and thick, so pick a bulky yarn in any color you like. Read the yarn label to see which hook or needle sizes to use with the yarn.[10]
- If you'd like to make a multicolored infinity scarf, get 2 different colors or find yarn that's multicolored.
- Knit or crochet a scarf that's at least wide and long. You can follow any pattern you like or repeat a simple stitch to make a scarf that's at least wide. For example, knit a simple garter stitch or work double crochet to make the scarf. Then, bind off the edge.[11]
- Twist the scarf in the middle and line up the ends. Spread your finished scarf flat on a work surface and twist it in the center. Fold half of the scarf over so the scarf has both the right side and wrong side facing up. Then, carefully bring the ends together and line up the edges.[12]
- Twisting the tube gives your infinity scarf a little more volume and texture. If you want the infinity scarf to simply be a tube that you twist when you wear, don't twist the scarf before you join the ends.
- Whipstitch the 2 ends together to join the scarf. Thread a large tapestry or yarn needle with at least of the same yarn as your scarf. Bring it up through the bottom stitch on 1 edge and pull to leave a yarn tail. Insert the needle through the bottom stitch on the opposite edge of the scarf. Then, sew across the edges into the next stitch from the bottom. Whipstitch until you reach the other end of the scarf.[13]
- Keep your stitches slightly loose since you'll be pulling them once you've finished seaming.
- Pull both ends of the yarn to hide the stitches and weave in the tails. Once you've sewn stitches back and forth across the edges, hold the yarn tail in 1 hand and the working yarn in your other hand. Pull them in opposite directions so the edges of the scarf come together to hide the stitches. Then, thread a tail onto a tapestry needle and sew the tail into the edge of the scarf.[14]
- Stop pulling as soon as the edges meet. If you pull too hard and the fabric puckers, just tug the fabric edges in opposite directions until they loosen.
- For the easiest no-sew infinity scarf, take a long scarf and tie the ends together in a knot. To wear the scarf, twist it in the middle to make a figure 8 and put your head through both loops.
- If you don't have a sewing machine or don't feel comfortable stitching the scarf, don't worry! Lay a strip of fusible bonding tape between the edges and iron the scarf.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Basic Infinity Scarf - of fabric
- Sewing pins
- Sewing machine
- Scissors
- Sewing needle
[Edit]No-Sew Infinity Scarf [Edit]Yarn Infinity Scarf - Bulky yarn
- Crochet hook or knitting needles
- Scissors
- Thread or tapestry needle
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Drill Into Brick Posted: 29 Aug 2021 09:00 AM PDT Few DIY projects cause a homeowner to pause quite like the prospect of drilling into brick. The good news is that this isn't nearly as difficult as it may sound. Drilling into brick isn't all that different from drilling into drywall, although you do need a special masonry drill bit and probably a wall anchor to keep the brick or mortar from falling apart over time. Still, there's no reason you can't safely get this done in just a few minutes! [Edit]Preparation and Equipment - Drill directly into the brick if it's newer and you're hanging something heavy. The age-old debate between contractors and DIY enthusiasts is whether to drill into the brick or the mortar. Conventional thinking says that if the brick is on the newer side or you need to hang something weighing more than a few pounds, it's best to drill directly into the brick.[1]
- Brick is stronger than mortar, so this is ideal if you're mounting a TV or something like that. Unfortunately, you can't patch brick the same way you can patch mortar, so just make sure you're ready to hang the item if you're drilling straight into the brick.
- If you're drilling directly into brick, use a wall anchor. A screw may come loose or cause the brick to degrade over time.[2] Wall anchors come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, but they list the weight they can hold and the materials they're for on the packaging.
- Go into the mortar if the brick is older or you're hanging something light. Say you're hanging a lightweight wall planter for a small patch of basil or your brick isn't in the greatest shape. You should drill into the mortar.[3] Mortar disintegrates faster than brick once drilled, but you can always patch it in the future.[4]
- As bricks age, they tend to become softer. If the bricks aren't in the best shape, drilling into a brick may cause structural damage to the wall.
- If you're going into the mortar and you aren't hanging anything heavy, you can just use a drywall or masonry screw. You don't need a wall anchor.
- Measure and mark the location where you want to drill. Grab a permanent marker to mark the location where you want to drive your screw. If you're hanging anything that requires more than one screw, measure the distance between the screw slots and use that measurement to determine where your screws will go.[5]
- Put a drill bit designed specifically for masonry into your drill. You must use a masonry bit to drive a hole in the brick or masonry (carbide masonry bits are ideal).[6] The size of the drill bit needed depends on the size of your anchor (or screw if you aren't using an anchor). Hold the pilot bit up to your anchor. If the threads on the anchor barely stick out past the sides of the drill bit, it should work.[7]
- If you're going into the brick directly, you may need a power drill if the brick is especially new or strong. Luckily, you can rent one of these from any big box home improvement store.[8]
- Wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit where you'll need to stop drilling. Hold the screw or anchor up to the tip of your drill bit so they're parallel to one another. Wrap a piece of electrical or painter's tape around the drill bit just above the very edge of your anchor or screw. This will give you a reference point for when you need to stop drilling.[9]
- If you have a drill stop, feel free to use that instead. The tape trick is totally fine and will keep you from spending money on a bit of gear you'll likely never use again.
- Put on safety goggles, gloves, and an N95 respirator. Drilling into brick or mortar may send bits of rock flying all over the place, and it will knock all kinds of nasty dust into the air. Throw on some safety goggles, put on some leather gloves, and wear a respirator. This will keep you safe while you're drilling into the brick.[10]
- If you're doing this outside and you're only drilling one hole, feel free to wear a regular dust mask.
[Edit]Pilot Hole - Set your drill to the lowest speed and highest torque setting. You want torque and control here, and a higher drill speed may cause the bit to slide off of the wall. This can be dangerous if you don't have total control over the drill. Turn the drill speed all the way down to prevent this. If you have a torque setting on your drill, turn the torque up as high as it goes.[11]
- The torque setting is often referred to as the power setting. If your drill has one of these, it's probably the sliding tab on the top of the drill. The "1" is usually the high torque setting.[12]
- Position the drill bit so it's perpendicular to the wall. Hold the pilot bit up to the location you've marked and rest it against the wall. Line your drill up so that the pilot bit sits perpendicular to the surface you're drilling into.[13]
- Really take your time to make sure the drill is perpendicular. There's going to be a fair bit of resistance once you start drilling, so it's key you know where you have to hold the drill while you pull the trigger.
- Hold the drill with both hands and use a bit of force to start drilling. Grip the drill firmly and pull the trigger. As soon as the tip of the drill bit catches on the brick or mortar, push the drill forward with a firm but controlled amount of force to push the bit in further.[14]
- If the drill bit skirts off of the wall, release the trigger and try again. You have to hold the drill totally steady for the bit to catch.
- Guide the bit all the way to the piece of tape on your bit. Continue pushing the drill bit into the wall while you're holding the trigger down. Keep an eye on the piece of tape that you put on the drill bit and release the trigger once you've reached the edge of your tape. Then, reverse the direction of the drill, pull the trigger, and slowly guide the bit out of the wall.[15]
[Edit]Wall Anchor or Screw - Vacuum the hole to remove any dust. Brick and mortar aren't hollow, so any dust or chunks of brick you dislodged with your pilot bit are just sitting in that hole. Grab a vacuum and hold the hose up to the hole. Set the vacuum to the highest suction level and turn the vacuum on to pull out any debris.[16]
- This is the ideal time to vacuum up any brick or mortar dust on the ground as well!
- Push the wall anchor into place if there's no threading. If you're using a wall anchor with parallel tabs on it, or the side is totally smooth, simply push the anchor directly into the pilot hole. If it gets stuck or the hole isn't big enough to get the anchor in all the way, grab a hammer and just gently tab the back of the anchor to push it in.[17]
- If you're drilling directly into the brick or you're drilling into the mortar and hanging something heavier than , you must use a wall anchor.
- Continue pushing or tapping your anchor into the hole until it's flush with the surface of the brick.
- Install the screw into the anchor using a regular screwdriver.
- Use the drill or a screwdriver to install threaded anchors. If you're using a wall anchor with threading, turn your drill to the lowest setting and slowly drive it into the pilot hole. If you want to be extra careful, you can use a screwdriver if you prefer, although this is going to be pretty tough on your forearms! Continue driving your anchor into place until it's flush with the wall.[18]
- If you have a hex anchor, use a socket wrench to install it in the wall instead of a drill or screwdriver.
- Install your screw in the anchor with a standard screwdriver.
- Drill your screw into place if you aren't using an anchor. If you are just hanging something light on the brick and you went into the mortar, you may not need an anchor. Simply put a regular drill bit into your drill and carefully drive the screw into the hole you drilled.[19]
- You may be able to use a screwdriver, but it's probably going to be pretty tough.
- If you're hanging something, keep in mind that you'll need an extra of the screw sticking out of the wall!
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Measuring tape
- Permanent marker
- Masonry drill bit
- Cordless drill or power drill
- Wall anchor
- Drywall or masonry screw
- Protective goggles
- Leather gloves
- N95 respirator or dust mask
- Electrical tape or painter's tape
[Edit]References |
| How to Chop Down a Tree Posted: 29 Aug 2021 01:00 AM PDT Chopping down a tree is definitely a big undertaking, but it's not as hard as you might think. As long as you have the right equipment and take some precautions, you can safely fell a tree on your own. Keep reading for a step-by-step guide through this straightforward process. [Edit]Check that there are no hazards or other obstructions nearby. - Make sure there's enough space for the tree to fall without hitting anything. Roughly estimate the tree's total height, then check that there are no buildings, structures, or power lines that your tree could collide with after you cut it down. While you're at it, make sure that no people, pets, or other obstacles are anywhere in this radius, either.[1]
- Postpone your tree-felling plans for another day if the upcoming weather forecast calls for rain or wind.[2]
- Play it safe and consult a tree-felling professional for a second opinion if you're worried about your tree's location.
[Edit]Grab your chainsaw and safety gear. - Safety equipment helps keep you protected as you work with your chainsaw. Always slide into a pair of sturdy, close-toed shoes, like leather boots, so your feet are completely protected. To guard your arms and legs, wear chainsaw chaps or pants, as well as a long-sleeved top. Then, put on a hard hat and some goggles to protect your head and eyes. Wear work gloves and earmuffs or earplugs, too.[3]
- Experts suggest using a chainsaw to chop down most trees. An ax will work if you're handling a really small tree or sapling; otherwise, a chainsaw is your best bet.[4]
- A chainsaw with a bar is a good choice for small- or medium-sized trees, while a bar is a better option for bigger trees. Use a larger bar if you're planning to cut a large tree into firewood, too.
- In general, only chop down trees that have a smaller diameter than the length of your chainsaw.[5] For example, you wouldn't use a chainsaw to fell a wide tree.
[Edit]Predict where the tree will fall. - Use the tree's natural lean as a guide. Usually, the way the tree leans is the direction it should fall.[6] Then, double-check that there's enough space for your tree to safely go down, and make sure the ground is completely flat and level before you get started.[7]
- If the ground is uneven, call a professional for help. You don't want your tree rolling or bouncing after it hits the dirt.
[Edit]Trim away any underbrush before you chop down the tree. - Grab a pair of pruning shears and cut away any extra growths around the tree's trunk.[8] If the tree has a lot of low-hanging branches, trim those away as well.[9] Carry all the debris away from the tree once you're done.
[Edit]Find your escape route. - Make sure you can get out of the way when the tree falls. Start by facing the opposite direction of where the tree will fall. Then, turn yourself 45 degrees to the left—this is your ideal escape path.[10]
- Create an escape path that's at least long, so you can be a safe distance away from the tree as it goes down.[11]
- As an extra precaution, plan a second escape route that's 90 degrees to the right of your first escape route.[12]
[Edit]Cut the first half of the notch. - Create the notch on the side of the tree where you'd like it to fall. Stand to the right of where you'll be cutting the notch. While holding the chainsaw horizontally, cut into the trunk at a 70-degree angle—this cut will be the first part of your notch.[13] Continue slicing until you've cut about ⅓ of the way into the tree trunk.[14]
- Picture this notch as a triangle. The outer tree bark makes up one side of the triangle. During this step, you'll be creating the long, diagonal edge of your triangle.
- Always wear your helmet, goggles, gloves, and ear protection before you turn on and use your chainsaw.
[Edit]Complete the notch. - Make a horizontal cut directly beneath the angled cut. Continue holding the chainsaw horizontally, lining up the chainsaw with the very bottom of the angled cut. Then, cut in a straight line, eventually connecting with the end of the angled cut. At this point, a triangular chunk of wood will fall out of the tree.[15]
- With this cut, you'll create the flat, bottom edge of the triangle.
- Make this bottom cut no more than above the ground.[16]
[Edit]Cut along the opposite side of the tree. - Line up your chainsaw with your notch along the uncut side of the tree. Then, cut into the trunk in a smooth horizontal line.[17]
- Before cutting, some people like to hammer felling wedges into the gap. These are small, triangular tools that help you complete your felling cut. Always lock your chainsaw before using any of these wedges.
[Edit]Finish your felling cut. - Continue sawing until the tree starts to give way. As a general rule of thumb, stop cutting when about 10% of the total tree trunk is left between your notch and your felling cut. At this point, your tree should start leaning and falling.[18]
- Always stand to the right side of the notch as you cut, keeping the chainsaw perpendicular to the tree trunk.
- If you used any felling wedges, unlock your chainsaw blade before you continue cutting.
[Edit]Move away as the tree falls. - Use your escape route to get away from the tree. Once the tree starts tipping, turn on the chainsaw's chain brake and pull it out of the tree. Then, run down your escape path so you're a safe distance away. As you back away, continue watching the tree to make sure it doesn't tilt or fall in your direction.[19]
- When trimming branches off your fallen tree, make 2 cuts along the branch so your chainsaw blade doesn't bind. Make a small cut on top, and then cut upward from the bottom of the branch.[20]
- When cutting logs, slice about a third of the way through the top of the trunk. Then, move your chainsaw directly below the trunk, shifting it to the right or left of your original cut. Cut upward with the chainsaw, slicing all the way through the trunk.[21]
[Edit]Warnings - Double-check for any obstacles before you start chopping down any trees. Also, make sure the tree is a safe distance away from your home and any other nearby buildings.[22]
- If you aren't experienced with chainsaws, consider renting or buying a reduced kickback saw chain. It's slower than other types of chainsaws, but it's a lot safer to use.[23]
- Never use a chainsaw without the proper safety equipment, like sturdy boots, safety glasses, work gloves, long pants, and earplugs.[24]
- Never look away from the chainsaw bar while chopping down a tree.[25]
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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