| How to Make a Brochure Using Google Docs Posted: 09 Oct 2020 05:00 PM PDT This wikiHow teaches you how to create and print a brochure in Google Docs. The most common brochure type is a tri-fold brochure, which may also be known as a pamphlet. Although Google Docs doesn't have a tri-fold brochure template, it's pretty easy to create your own. If you're not concerned with the format and just want to make a simple two-page brochure, you can use one of Google Doc's free business brochure templates. [Edit]Tri-Fold Brochure - Go to https://docs.google.com in your browser. If you're not already signed into Google Docs, follow the on-screen instructions to sign in now with your Google Account.
- Before you get started, decide what you want your tri-fold brochure to look like. Brochures come in many shapes and sizes. Think about how many pages you want your brochure to have and the size of each page.
- Click to create a blank document. It's the large rainbow plus sign in the top-left area of the page.
- To name the file, click the "Untitled Document" textbox in the upper-left corner of the window, then enter a type in a title for your brochure.
- Click the menu and select . This is where you can set up the dimensions of the file.
- Click the radio button next to "Landscape." This changes the page orientation of the document to landscape so you can fold the brochure properly.
- Set the margins as "0.25" and click . The margins are on the right side of the window. This gives you more space for images and text.
- Create a three-column table. You'll need to create three columns on both sides of the page so you can fold it into thirds. To do this:
- Click the Insert menu at the top of Docs.
- Select the Table menu.
- Drag your mouse so only the top three squares are highlighted. Each of the squares will represent a column in your brochure.
- When you see the new table, press the Enter or Return key repeatedly to extend the columns to the bottom of the second page. Since you're making a tri-fold brochure, you'll want your columns to line up on both sides of the sheet. The idea is that you'll see three vertical columns on both sides of the page (you can hide the actual lines later). Although you haven't added data yet, this gives you some visual table lines to work with.
- Familiarize yourself with the tri-fold layout. You should now have 2 pages with three columns each. Since you'll be folding the brochure along the lines, the layout will look like this:
- Page 1 (the "outside" page): Inside flap (this part folds in) | Back Cover | Front Cover
- Page 2 (the "inside" page): Other side of inside flap | Inside of Back Cover | Inside of Front Cover
- It might be more helpful to visualize if you take a sheet of paper, draw column markers, and then fold it in this order:
- Fold the left panel down (behind the cover).
- Fold the right panel (the cover) behind so it covers the other panels (the back cover will now be at the top).
- Flip the folded brochure over so the cover page is on top (and opens like a book).
- Design the front cover. The front cover of the tri-fold brochure will be the rightmost column on the first page (column 3).[1] The design of your cover is up to you, but here are a few ideas to get you started:
- Type your desired title at the top (or anywhere, really) of column 3. Just click the mouse cursor in the column and start typing. To stylize the text, highlight what you've typed and use the text style menus and buttons that run along the top of the document.
- For example, you can select a style by clicking the menu that says Normal text and choosing an option. You can also change the font face, size, weight, and even color.
- It's common to center the title. To do so, highlight it and click the button of 4 centered lines in the toolbar.
- A strong cover image is important to illustrate the purpose of the brochure, as well as draw the interest of readers. To add an image, click the desired location, click the Insert menu, select Image, navigate to the image's location, select it, and then click Open.
- Drag the blue anchors around the image's edges to reside if it desired.
- Design the back cover. This is the center panel of page one, so it's directly to the left of the front cover. Brochure back panels often include contact information, credits, and closing statements. Occasionally back panels are even designed as mailing panels so you can mail it without an envelope.
- It's a good idea to make the back panel as vibrant as the front so it draws attention to matter where the brochure is placed.
- Create the first inside panel. Now that you're done with the two covers, it's time to add the rest of the content. Page 1 of the brochure will be inside the front cover, which is the third column on the second page. Since this is usually where you'll introduce the product or service, it'll probably be a little more text-heavy than the front or back covers.
- When you open a tri-fold brochure, you'll see a flap on the right side that can be opened up. That flap, which is the leftmost column of Page 1, should contain stand-alone information, such as an ad, or special offer.
- Add content to the rest of your brochure. Since you've introduced the product or service in the first column of page 2, you can continue adding content to the remaining pages. Since you already know how to add text and photos, check out these tips for more in-depth text formatting:
- If you add images, you'll want to make them work with the text by setting up wrapping. Click the image after inserting it, and then click one of the three wrap icons below it.
- Inline (icon 1) means the image will be added as part of the text, causing the image to shift when text is added or deleted. This is not recommended as it can cause formatting issues in the case of a brochure.
- Wrap text (icon 2) allows text to flow around and to the side of an image. This is a good option for the inside of a brochure when you have small images amongst paragraph text.
- Break text (icon 3) means the text will stop above and continue below the image. This is a good option for tri-fold brochures as the columns are small and don't have a lot of space for text to go around the image.
- Hide the table outline to see the final product. Now that you've designed your brochure, you can get rid of those black guidelines. Here's how:
- Click any blank area inside any column to select the table.
- Right-click any blank area inside the table and select Table properties.
- Change the default line size (1pt) to 0pt.
- Click OK.
- Print the brochure on a duplex printer. Since the inside and outside pages of the brochure technically span two separate pages, you'll need to print both pages together double-sided. Here's how to this in Google Docs:
- Click the File menu and select Print.
- Select your printer from the "Destination" menu.
- Select how many copies to print (start with one just to make sure you like what you see).
- Expand the More settings menu.
- In the "Two-sided" section, check the box next to "Print on both sides," and then select Flip on short edge from the drop-down menu. This is because the file is in landscape mode—flipping on the long side would make the inside print upside-down.[2]
[Edit]Two Page Brochure - Go to https://docs.google.com in your browser. If you're not already signed into Google Docs, follow the on-screen instructions to sign in now with your Google Account.
- Although Google Docs has a brochure template, it's not the typical tri-fold style you may be expecting. Still, it'll work in a pinch when you need to get people the information they need.
- Click . It's in the top-right side of the Google Docs page. This expands a set of pre-made templates you can use to create documents.
- Click a brochure template in the "Work" section. There are two brochure templates in the "Work" section—one called "Modern Writer" (a travel-oriented template) and another called "Geometric" (a basic product template). Click the template that best suits your needs.
- Replace the placeholder text with your own text. You'll notice all the text in the brochure is generic, like "Your Company" and "Product Brochure." The blocks of text of placeholder text beginning with "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet". Triple-click some placeholder text to highlight it, and then start typing your own content.
- Replace an image. Brochure templates come with images pre-inserted, but you can easily replace them with images of your own without messing up the format. Here's how:
- Click the image to select it.
- Right-click the image.
- Select Replace image.
- Click Upload from computer (or select another location, like Google Drive or Google Photos).
- Select the replacement image and click Open.
- Change the image size if needed. With the image still select, click and drag the blue squares on the corners of the image to resize the image.
- If you upload an image that is smaller than needed, making it bigger may cause it to look pixilated and fuzzy.
- Reformat your text if needed. If you want to make text bigger or smaller, use a different font, or use a different color, you can apply your preferred changes by highlighting the text that you want to change and then clicking an option in the menu bar at the top of the page.
- For example, you can make the text bold by highlighting it and then clicking B at the top of the page. Or you can use the "Font" drop-down menu to change the font.
- Print the brochure. Use the following steps to print the brochure:
- Click File in the upper-right corner of the menu bar.
- Click Print.
[Edit]Sample Brochure - Google Docs automatically saves your work every few minutes. Don't worry about having to save your work.
- Brochures are most easily created when all the files that you need for the brochure are in the same place. Consider copying all the photos and documents that you want to use for your brochure onto your computer's desktop to streamline the process.
- You can also create a brochure in Microsoft Word if you'd prefer not to use Google Docs.
- Not all printers support double-sided printing, which is what you'll need to create a folded brochure. Make sure that you have access to a printer that can print on both sides of a sheet before attempting to print your brochure. You can also take a document to a print shop.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Remove Permanent Hair Dye from Carpets Posted: 09 Oct 2020 09:00 AM PDT The new hair color you picked is beautiful, but that spot on the carpet where it dripped? Not so much. Permanent hair dye is relatively easy to remove from carpet if you act quickly. But even if you don't notice a spot until after it's already set in, you can still get it up and have your carpet looking like new — it just might take a little more effort. While you might be able to buy a commercial carpet cleaner that removes hair dye, you can easily make a solution yourself with a few basic household ingredients. [Edit]Fresh Spills - Soak up as much liquid as possible with a clean cloth. Before you start cleaning the spill, press on it with a cloth to dry it out as much as possible. Fold the cloth over and press again until there is no visible liquid on the carpet.[1]
- Don't rub on the dye or scrub it — you'll cause it to spread and become more deeply absorbed in the carpet, which will make it harder to get out. You also risk damaging the carpet fibers.
- Mix dishwashing liquid, white vinegar, and water in a shallow bowl. Use the formula of of dishwashing liquid and of white vinegar to of water to make your cleaning solution. Just stir the ingredients around a little to mix it together.[2]
- The basic formula should provide enough cleaning solution for you to clean the spot. If you have a larger spill, though, you might want to mix more.
- Dip a clean, white cloth in the solution and dab it repeatedly on the spot. Get your cloth damp, then press it on the dye spot. Lift, then press again. Continue dipping your cloth into the solution and pressing it back onto the spot, watching the dye come up from the carpet onto the cloth.[3]
- Using a white cloth means you don't have to worry about any color from the cloth transferring to your carpet. It also makes it easier to see the dye you're pulling up.
- Be careful not to rub the mixture into the carpet — you can damage the carpet fibers or cause the dye to become more deeply embedded in the carpet, which will make it more difficult to remove.
- Rinse the affected area with cool water. When you can't see any more dye in the carpet, pour a little water over the spot to rinse out the solution. Then, continue blotting with your cloth or with a dry sponge.[4]
- You might need to pour more water to rinse again — this is up to you. If you still smell vinegar in the carpet, it's a good idea to rinse it again.
- Dry the carpet with cool air or a sponge. Blot up the excess water. From there, you can usually just let the carpet air dry — it shouldn't take very long. If the spot was in a high-traffic area and you want it to dry faster, you might press it with a dry sponge to soak up more of the moisture.[5]
- You can also set up a fan to blow on the damp carpet.
[Edit]Deep-Set Stains - Soak the stain in a dishwashing detergent and vinegar solution. In a shallow bowl, mix of dishwashing liquid and of white vinegar with of water. Soak a cloth or sponge in the solution and squeeze it over the stain to soak the carpet.[6]
- You could also pour the solution over the stain slowly to flood the area. This might work better if the stain is larger.
- Dab at the stain with a clean, white cloth every 5 minutes for a half-hour. Set a timer for 30 minutes. Every 5 minutes, take your white cloth and dab at the stain. If the area seems to be drying out, you might want to squeeze on a little more cleaning solution.[7]
- Dabbing at the stain helps the cleaning solution soak more deeply into the carpet fibers. Don't scrub, though — you could damage your carpet.
- Rinse the stain with cool water. After your 30 minutes is up, pour cold water on the stain to rinse off the cleaning solution. Use a sponge or clean cloth to soak up the excess water. You might still be able to see the stain, but it should be less noticeable, at least.[8]
- If you can't tell much difference, you might want to do another 30 minutes with the cleaning solution, just to get more of the dye out of the surface.
- Blot remnants of the stain with rubbing alcohol. Use a clean, white cloth or a cotton swab (depending on the size of the stain that's left) to blot rubbing alcohol directly on the stain. Dab at the stain gently until it disappears.[9]
- A deeper-set stain might take a little more work to get rid of, so expect to dab it more than once. If it seems like the rubbing alcohol isn't affecting the stain at all, though, you might have to try another solution to get rid of it.
- Rinse the area with cold water to get rid of the rubbing alcohol. Pour a little water on the area to rinse the rubbing alcohol away. Soak up the excess moisture with a clean, dry cloth or sponge.[10]
- If you were only treating a small area with alcohol on a cotton swab, you might not need to pour water on the area to rinse it. Just squeeze water out of a sponge or cloth.
- Sponge or blot excess moisture from the carpet. Use a dry sponge or dry, white cloth to soak up the excess moisture in the carpet. While the carpet will still be damp after you do this, you can usually just let it air dry.[11]
- Put an electric fan on the floor so that it's blowing on the spot if you want it to dry out faster.
[Edit]Stubborn Spots - Make an ammonia and dishwashing liquid solution in a shallow bowl. Mix of dishwashing liquid and of ammonia in of warm water. You might want to wear a face covering if ammonia fumes bother you.[12]
- Mix this solution in a well-ventilated area to cut down on the fumes.
- Don't mix any other chemicals in this solution, especially bleach — the fumes are toxic.
- Apply the solution to a small area to test if it damages your carpet. Find a small, obscure area of your carpet where no one would notice if it was damaged. Dip a cotton swab in your ammonia solution and apply it to that area. If it singes or destroys the carpet fibers, don't use this solution to try to clean the stain.[13]
- Ammonia is effective at getting out hair dye, but it damages wool. Since you probably don't know if your carpet has any wool in it, use this test to make sure the solution won't damage your carpet. Better safe than sorry!
- Dab the solution all over the stained area. Dip a clean, white cloth in the solution, then dab it over the stubborn stain. Repeat until the stained portion of the carpet is completely covered in the solution. Don't pour the solution on the spot — too much ammonia could ruin your carpet.[14]
- It's a good idea to wear plastic gloves to protect your hands from the ammonia.
- Blot the solution every 5 minutes for at least half an hour. Set a timer and come back every 5 minutes. Dip your cloth in the solution and re-apply it, dabbing at the stain. You should notice the stain start to come up from the carpet. If the stain isn't completely gone after a half an hour, you can keep doing it for longer if it appears to be working.[15]
- Each time you come back to blot the solution, look at the condition of the carpet. If the carpet fibers in the spot look damaged compared to the surrounding carpet, rinse the ammonia out before it gets worse.
- Rinse the carpet with cold water. Pour cold water on the carpet to rinse the ammonia out, immediately soaking it up with a clean, dry cloth. You'll probably need to rinse it several times.[16]
- It can be hard to tell, but keep rinsing until you can't smell any ammonia fumes coming from the carpet.
- Dry the carpet with a fan or dry cloth. Use a dry cloth or a dry sponge to help soak up the excess moisture on the carpet. Even after doing this, leave a fan blowing on the spot for at least an hour, or until the carpet feels completely dry.[17]
- Once the carpet is dry, check its condition. If the stain is gone, congratulations! If the carpet looks bleached-out, you might want to use a fabric pen to fill it back in so it's not as noticeable.
- Use a cotton swab soaked with hydrogen peroxide as a last resort. If you still have some dye on your carpet that won't come out and is pretty obvious, hydrogen peroxide will take care of it. Dip a cotton swab in hydrogen peroxide, then press it into the spot. You might need to do this several times so that the spot is completely saturated.[18]
- Hydrogen peroxide might also take the color out of your carpet, but if you have a white or light beige carpet, that might not be as noticeable as the hair dye stain.
- Rinse hydrogen peroxide out of the carpet after a day. You might have to leave the hydrogen peroxide on the stain for up to 24 hours to make sure you've gotten rid of the stain. When you can no longer see the stain, rinse the area with cool water to get any remaining hydrogen peroxide out of the carpet.[19]
- Since you didn't use a lot of hydrogen peroxide, you likely won't need a lot of water to rinse. Use a dry sponge or cloth to soak up the water after you've rinsed.
- Start cleaning up any dripped or spilled hair dye as soon as possible for the best results.
- If the carpet is discolored or bleached out after you remove the dye, you can recolor it with a fabric pen.
- If the hair dye stain is older and dried, these cleaning solutions might not work. Try a commercial carpet cleaning product or hire a professional carpet cleaner.[20]
[Edit]Warnings - Don't rub or scrub the stain — you'll only make it worse.[21]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Fresh Spills - Dishwashing liquid
- White vinegar
- Water
- Clean, white cloths
[Edit]Older Stains - Dishwashing liquid
- White vinegar
- Water
- Rubbing alcohol
- Clean, white cloths
[Edit]Stubborn Spots - Dishwashing liquid
- Ammonia
- Water
- Hydrogen peroxide
- Cotton swabs
- Clean, white cloths
[Edit]References |
| How to Disinfect with Bleach Posted: 09 Oct 2020 01:00 AM PDT So, you've got a moldy or super dirty surface you want to get clean. No problem. You can just reach for the handy container of bleach and clean it up, right? Not so fast! While bleach can be a highly effective cleaning and sanitizing solution, it's also a really potent and potentially dangerous chemical. Don't worry though. As long as you follow the proper safety precautions, like making sure to dilute the bleach first, you can use bleach to sanitize and disinfect a variety of surfaces. [Edit]Using Bleach Safely - Open up windows to increase ventilation. Whenever you're diluting or using bleach, always work in a well-ventilated area to avoid breathing in the toxic fumes. Open up some windows to increase the air circulation in the room before you use the bleach.[1]
- You can also turn on some fans in the room.
- Another option is to dilute the bleach outside so you don't breathe in the vapors from the concentrated bleach.
- Wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Bleach is highly corrosive, which means it can burn your skin and eyes. Always put on a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands when you're using bleach. Additionally, wear safety glasses or safety goggles to protect your eyes from bleach getting splashed into them.[2]
- You could also wear pants and a long-sleeved shirt. Bleach can damage and discolor clothing, so make sure you wear something you don't mind getting stained.
- Avoid mixing bleach with other household chemicals. Never mix bleach with any other cleaning solutions. Combining bleach with common household chemicals such as ammonia can produce chloramine gas, which is highly toxic and can be life-threatening if it's breathed in. The only thing you should ever mix bleach with is water to dilute it.[3]
- If you do accidentally mix bleach with another chemical, leave the area and get outside into fresh air immediately.
- Store bleach in a cool, shaded, out-of-reach location. Bleach has an expiration date and will become much less effective once it expires. It can also become less effective if it's exposed to sunlight and heat, so keep it somewhere cool and dark like a storage closet. Place the bleach somewhere high or out of reach of children.[4]
- Make sure the cap is tightly sealed as well.
- Once the bleach is expired, dispose of it and use fresh bleach to sanitize. Check the expiration date printed on the bottle.
[Edit]Sanitizing a Surface with Bleach - Choose regular unscented 5%-6% bleach to disinfect and sanitize. Household bleach can come in a range of concentrations and scents. Use an unscented 5%-6% concentration so you can safely and easily dilute it and it won't leave any residual smells. Make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area.[5]
- Scented bleach products are often used for laundry.
- Clean the surface with dish soap and warm water. Bleach is a great sanitizing and disinfecting solution, but dirty surfaces need to be cleaned first. Use warm water and add a few drops of dish soap. Scrub the surface with a sponge or washcloth to remove dust, dirt, and debris from it.[6]
- Use a scrubbing brush to remove stubborn stains and gunk from the surface.
- Rinse the surface with clean water. Use a hose or a cloth soaked in clean water to rinse the surface before you use the bleach. Make sure you remove any traces of the soap so there isn't any that could potentially react with the bleach.[7]
- It's really important there isn't any soap left on the surface. Some soaps may have ingredients that can produce a toxic gas if they're combined with bleach.[8]
- Mix of bleach with of cold water. Fill a bucket with cold, clean water. Measure out the bleach into a measuring cup and carefully pour it into the water. Use a stir stick to stir the solution so it's fully combined.[9]
- Never use undiluted bleach to disinfect surfaces.
- Hot water decomposes the active ingredient in the bleach, making it useless. Whenever you're diluting your bleach to use it to sanitize and disinfect, always use cold water.
- Be careful not to stand over the solution to avoid breathing in the fumes.
- Wipe floors, sinks, and household surfaces, then let them air dry. If you're using the bleach to sanitize and disinfect household surfaces, use a brush, mop, towel, sponge, or washcloth in the solution and wipe the surface. Leave the bleach to air dry and fully sanitize the surface.[10]
- It takes at least 10 minutes for the bleach to fully disinfect a hard surface, so don't rinse it away. Just let it air dry on its own.[11]
- Bleach is safe to use on hard surfaces like floors, sinks, toys, and walls.
- Soak cleaning tools in diluted bleach for 30 minutes, then rinse them. If you used a brush, mop, towel, sponge or wash cloth to sanitize the surface, they need to be fully disinfected. Soak them in the bucket of bleach for half an hour and then rinse them with clean water.[12]
- Make sure you're wearing gloves when you're submerging and removing the tools.
- Use diluted bleach within 24 hours. Once the bleach is diluted, use it while it's still fresh and strong enough to sanitize your surfaces. The diluted bleach begins to break down and is less potent after 24 hours, so discard it the next day.[13]
- You can label and date the solution to be sure it's still fresh.
[Edit]Getting Rid of Mold on Hard Surfaces - Use bleach to kill mold on floors, countertops, and hard surfaces. Bleach can be used as an effective way to kill mold on hard surfaces. Use it to get rid of mold on floors, countertops, walls, tile, concrete, and any other hard surfaces around your home that may have mold on them.[14]
- Don't use bleach to get rid of mold on fabrics or porous surfaces like wallpaper because it can damage or discolor them.
- Mix of 5%-6% bleach with of cold water. Fill a bucket with cold water, not hot, since hot water will make the bleach ineffective. Carefully measure out the bleach and add it to the bucket. Use a stir stick to mix the solution together.[15]
- Be careful not to breathe in the fumes. Wear a mask and work in a well-ventilated area.
- Killing mold requires a stronger bleach solution than simply disinfecting surfaces.
- Scrub rough surfaces with a stiff brush before you apply the bleach. If you're cleaning a rough wall or floor that has mold on it, take a stiff brush and give it a good scrubbing to help break up the mold.[16]
- Breaking up the mold will help the bleach penetrate it more effectively.
- Wash the moldy surfaces with the bleach mixture. Use a sponge or washcloth and soak it in the bleach solution. Wipe the bleach over all of the moldy areas to start killing the mold.[17]
- Soak the sponge or washcloth to add more bleach as needed.
- Wear gloves and eye protection to keep yourself protected.
- Rinse the bleach away with clean water and let the surface air dry. The strong bleach solution can damage and discolor surfaces if it's left on them for too long. Use cool, clean water to rinse the surface well so all of the bleach is gone. Then, let the surface air dry on its own.[18]
- Turn on some fans to help increase circulation and speed up the drying process.
- You can spray the surface with clean water or wipe it down with a clean cloth soaked in clean water.
- Discard the diluted bleach after 24 hours. Diluted bleach begins to break down and become less effective. Use the bleach solution as soon as you mix it together. When you're finished, or the next day, discard any leftover bleach.[19]
- Use a gentler disinfectant if you can, like Borax or disinfecting soap. Bleach is harsh and should be used as a last resort.
[Edit]Warnings - Never bathe in bleach. Household bleach will irritate your skin and could cause long term damage.[20]
- Do not gargle or drink bleach, even if it's diluted. You could cause serious burns and it doesn't take much bleach to cause serious health problems or become life-threatening if you swallow it.[21]
- If someone accidentally ingests bleach, contact your local poison control immediately.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Sanitizing a Surface with Bleach - Dish soap
- Bucket
- Bleach
- Water
- Stir stick
- Brush, mop, towel, sponge, or washcloth
[Edit]Getting Rid of Mold on Hard Surfaces - Bucket
- Bleach
- Water
- Stir stick
- Scrubbing brush (for rough surfaces)
- Sponge or washcloth
[Edit]References |
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