| How to Preserve Leaf Color Posted: 21 Oct 2020 05:00 PM PDT Traditional drying methods often remove the color from beautiful leaves. To keep the colors of your leaves as close to their original shade as possible, you'll need to seal the leaves with wax, remove the moisture with borax, or replace the moisture with glycerin. Using wax is the best way to do this, but the wax will leave the leaves in a thick, shiny, texture. Drying your leaves in borax is the easiest method, but your greens may get washed out a little. Soaking leaves in glycerin is a great way to preserve colors, but it's labor intensive and the shades of green may become darker. Choose a method based on how much time you have and what kind of texture you're trying to achieve. [Edit]Using Wax to Preserve Leaves - Iron your leaves between 2 sheets of wax paper to remove the moisture. Lay a pillowcase down on a table and set a sheet of wax paper on top of it. Set your leaves on top of this sheet of wax paper and put a second layer of wax paper on top. Cover the wax paper with a second pillowcase. Set an iron to low heat and run it across your leaves for 3-5 minutes to remove the moisture trapped in your leaves.[1]
- This is the best way to naturally preserve the colors of a leaf. It will change the texture dramatically, though. The wax will dry on top of the leaves, leaving them with a slick, reflective texture.
- Melt 1 tablespoon (14 g) of wax for each of your leaves in a double boiler. Depending on their size, your leaves will need roughly (14 g) of wax to coat them on each side. Cut a small block of beeswax or paraffin wax off from a larger piece as needed and set it in the center of your double boiler's upper pot. Heat the double boiler over medium heat for 5-8 minutes until the wax melts.[2]
- If you don't have a double boiler, fill a nonstick pot halfway with water. Then, place a large glass bowl on top of the rim of the pot so that it isn't touching the water.
- For example, if you're preserving 3 leaves, (42 g) of wax should be plenty. Adjust the amount of wax you use as needed.
- The result will be the same regardless of whether you use paraffin wax or beeswax.
- Remove the upper pot in your double boiler and set it on a cloth. Set a towel down on a stable work surface. Put on oven mitts and set the bowl of melted wax on top of the towel. Set your leaves on top of a sheet of wax paper and set it next to the towel.[3]
- Use a pair of pliers to dunk the leaves in your wax for 1-2 seconds. Grab your first leaf gently by the stem with needle-nose pliers. Then, dunk the leaf into the wax for 1-2 seconds. Slide the stem around in the wax to submerge it completely. If you melted a small amount of wax, flip the leaf over in the melted wax to coat both sides.[4]
- Transfer the leaves to wax paper and let them dry for 3-5 minutes. Move your first leaf over the top of the wax paper and let any excess wax drip off. Then, set the leaf down on the wax paper. Repeat this process for every leaf that you're preserving by dipping it in the wax and setting it out. Wait 3-5 minutes for your leaves to dry.[5]
- You can air dry your leaves by hanging the stems from clothespins if you prefer.
- You can repeat this process to add another layer of glycerin if you want it thoroughly protected.
[Edit]Drying Leaves with Borax - Mix 1 part borax with 2 parts white or yellow cornmeal. Add 1 part pure powdered borax and 2 parts white or yellow cornmeal to a glass bowl and stir them with a wooden spoon. You need enough of this mixture to completely cover your leaves, so weigh your ingredients as needed. You need to completely cover your leaves with this mixture. If you're only preserving 3-5 leaves, you can use 1/2 cup (65 g) of borax and 1 cup (130 g) of cornmeal. Adjust your measurements as needed based on the number of leaves and the shape of your container.[6]
- You can get cornmeal and borax at a grocery store. Borax is a cleaning agent commonly found in laundry detergents.
- This method works best with bright flowers and leaves. Green plant matter will become slightly duller using this process.
- It doesn't matter if you use white or yellow cornmeal.
- Coat the bottom of a glass pan or paper box with your borax mixture. Grab a glass pan or large cardboard box that is big enough to hold your leaves. Use a ladle or large spoon to pour a layer of your borax mixture. Spread the mixture out with the flat bottom of your spoon or ladle to create a level base.[7]
- Add the leaves that you want to preserve to the top of the borax. Take your leaves and gently drop them on top of the borax. Spread out your leaves so that they aren't overlapping one another. Use needle-nose pliers to gently pick up individual leaves and reorient them as needed.[8]
- So long as each leaf is surrounded on all sides by the borax, you should be fine.
- Cover the leaves completely with another layer of borax. Grab your spoon or ladle and add another layer of borax. Pour the borax and cornmeal gently over the leaves until they're completely covered.[9]
- You can create multiple layers if you're drying a lot of leaves. For example, you can put 5-10 leaves on the first layer, cover them, then add another layer of 5-10 leaves and cover those.
- Let the leaves dry in the borax mixture for 2 weeks. Cover the box or pan and let it sit. Wait at least 2 weeks for the leaves to dry out. The cornmeal and borax will absorb the moisture in the leaves without lifting a lot of the color out. After 2 weeks have passed, use a slotted spoon to gently lift the leaves out.[10]
[Edit]Preserving Leaves with Glycerin - Mix a solution of 2 parts warm water and 1 part glycerin. Grab a pitcher or bowl and fill it with your glycerin. Add twice as much warm water to the pitcher or bowl. Mix the glycerin and water together using a metal spoon or mixing stick. At first, the mixture will appear cloudy. Continue mixing until the cloudiness disappears and the glycerin and water become completely clear.[11]
- Unless you're preserving more than 10 leaves, you only need about of glycerin and of water.
- You can buy glycerin online, although some larger pharmacies may carry it. It is a thickening gel and preservative agent used in skin care products and food.
- This is the most labor-intensive method. It is a great way to preserve the texture and colors, though. However, green shades will likely darken using this method.
- Fill a plastic container halfway with the glycerin mixture. Grab a food-safe plastic container. It doesn't need to be disposable, but cleaning glycerin can be kind of a pain. The plastic to-go containers you find at some restaurants are perfect for this. Pour your glycerin and water into the empty container until it is halfway full.[12]
- You can use a glass container if you'd like, but you'll need to do some serious cleaning after you're done. Glycerin leaves an oily residue behind.
- Cut the stem of your leaves using garden shears or clippers. Trim your leaves at the stem so they're as long as you want them to be. If there isn't much stem left, cut the final of the stem off. This wound will give the glycerin a way to seep into the leaf and replace the moisture.[13]
- This process will not work if you don't cut the stem.
- Drop your leaves into the glycerin and press them down a little. Take your leaves and set them on top of the glycerin. Use a mixing stick or the flat side of a spoon to gently press the leaves down into the glycerin. Push them down to ensure that they are fully covered.[14]
- Cover the leaves and weigh them down if they won't stay submerged. If your leaves aren't staying under the surface of the glycerin mixture, grab a plastic lid. Put the lid on top of the leaves and weigh it down using some small rocks or pebbles. This will keep the leaves from popping back up.[15]
- Leave your leaves in the glycerin for at least 24 hours. The longer you leave the leaves in the glycerin, the more effective this process will be. However, the longer you let the leaves soak, the more likely the color is to change. Let the leaves soak for at least 24 hours and no longer than 2 weeks to ensure that you preserve them without damaging the colors.[16]
- Keep the leaves in a dark area to ensure that the sun doesn't dye the leaves while they're soaking.
- Dry your leaves with paper towels and flatten them for 3-5 days. Remove your leaves by gently lifting the stems out with your needle-nose pliers and set them on top of a dry paper towel. Set another paper towel on top of the leaves. Then, flatten the leaves by setting the towels between panes of glass or the pages of a book. Set a heavy object on top of the glass or book and leave your leaves for 3-5 days to flatten them out and dry the excess glycerin off.[17]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using Wax to Preserve Leaves - Pillowcase
- Iron
- Glass bowl
- Wax
- Spoon
- Pot
- Water
- Needle-nose pliers
- Oven mitt
- Wax paper
- Cloth
[Edit]Drying Leaves with Borax - Borax
- Cornmeal
- Slotted spoon
- Box or pan
- Ladle or spoon
[Edit]Preserving Leaves with Glycerin - Glycerin
- Water
- Spoon
- Mixing Stick
- Needle nose pliers
- Bowl or container
- Glass panes or book
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Propagate Air Plants Posted: 21 Oct 2020 09:00 AM PDT Air plants, also known as Tillandsia, are unique, low maintenance plants that don't need to develop a root system in order to grow. If you already have an air plant on hand, you can wait for it to sprout pups or offsets. You can also collect, soak, and germinate seeds to produce new plants. Whether you're a seasoned or amateur garden, air plants can be a great addition to your home. [Edit]Using an Offset or Pup - Watch for your air plant to develop offsets or pups. As air plants mature, they develop offsets, otherwise known as pups. Examine the bottom of your plants to see if any new offsets are growing from the main plant.[1] Air plants are part of the bromeliad family, which take a notoriously long time to grow. If you're caring for a young plant, be prepared to wait several years before seeing any offsets or pups.[2]
- Some plants may have multiple pups or offsets growing from the mother plant, which is normal.[3]
- If you don't already have a mature air plant, buy one from your local gardening center or nursery.
- Twist off the pup to separate it from the base plant. Wait for the offset to be a third of the size of the actual air plant. Pinch this growth with your fingers, then slowly twist it counter-clockwise. Continue rotating the plant slowly until you've completely pulled it off the main air plant.[4]
- Don't remove the pup too quickly, or you could damage the plant.
- Water and nourish the plant to keep it healthy. Lay the separated pup on a flat surface and tend to it like any other air plant. Spritz the independent pup with tap water on a weekly basis so the plant can continue to grow.[5]
- Move the air plant to a new place to use as a decoration. Once the plants have grown to your desired size, place them somewhere around your home as an accent. Use fishing line, liquid nails, or hot glue to display the plant, or use another method of your choice![6]
[Edit]Germinating the Seeds - Collect seeds from an existing air plant. Examine the surface of an air plant that's currently blooming, and look for wisps of cotton along the tips of the plant. Remove these wisps and set them aside in a small bowl or container.[7]
- Soak your seeds in a bowl of water for 3-4 weeks. Fill a bowl or other container with tap water and place them somewhere you won't forget about them. Keep an eye on the seeds over the next few weeks and wait for them to swell and grow in size. When the seeds are beginning to germinate, they'll look slightly green and be about the size of a rice grain.[8]
- You don't need to cover the seeds—just place them in an area where you can monitor them.
- The seeds don't need to be kept under any kind of direct sunlight while they soak, so you can leave them wherever you'd like.
- You can purchase these seeds at a garden center or nursery.
- Place your seeds on a piece of cheesecloth in indirect sunlight. Scoop the seeds out of the container and spread them along a piece of cheesecloth. Arrange this cloth in an area that gets a lot of indirect sunlight, like a porch or patio.[9]
- You can also use a soft sheet of Velcro for this.
- If you keep your air plants inside, leave them near an eastern- or western-facing window.[10]
- Spritz the seeds with water on a weekly basis. Fill a spray bottle with tap water and lightly mist your growing air plants 1 time each week. You can also submerge and soak the seedlings for 20 or so minutes, then drape the plants upside-down to get rid of any extra water.[11]
- If your air plants aren't getting enough water, they'll start withering and curling in on themselves.
- Always water your air plants in a place where they can drain easily.
- Nourish the growing seedlings with a basic liquid fertilizer. Search a gardening center or nursery for liquid fertilizer that's designed for air plants. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer bottle by using ¼ of the recommended amount of product. Pour the small amount of fertilizer into the spray bottle or bowl that you normally use to water your plants. Fertilize the plants once per month, if you desire.[12]
- You don't have to use a fertilizer, but it could provide extra nutrients to your plants.
- Transfer your plants to a new surface once they bloom. Wait for your plants to be several inches or centimeters long, or large enough to soak up water on their own.[13] Find a place in or around your home where you'd like to arrange your plants. For a natural look, you can attach your air plants to rocks, seashells, or other natural surfaces. If you'd like a more creative option, use a decorative plant stand or piece of line to show off your plants.[14]
- Don't display your air plant in an area with water, as this will cause long-term damage.
- Air plants grow very slowly, and it may take more than 9 months for the plants to reach their full size.[15]
[Edit]Caring for Air Plants - Place your air plants in any area with indirect light. Search for a place in your home with southern-facing windows. Leave your plants in an environment that's somewhere between so they won't wither or freeze.[16]
- If you place your air plants outside, make sure that they're not in direct sunlight.
- As long as your air plants are kept in an area with indirect sunlight and a consistent temperature, you can place them wherever you want.
- Mist or submerge your air plants on a weekly or regular basis. Fill a spray bottle with cool tap water and spritz the surface of your plants 2-3 times each week. If you don't want to tend to the plant as frequently, soak it in a glass or bowl of water for 30 minutes. You only need to soak your plants once every week or so.[17]
- Add a small amount of liquid fertilizer to your plants on a monthly basis. Read the instructions on a package of basic liquid fertilizer and pour out ¼ of the recommended amount. Mix the product into a bowl or spray bottle filled with water, then spritz or soak the plants as you normally would. Only use fertilizer once a month, as it isn't essential to your air plants' health.[18]
[Edit]Warnings - Air plants only bloom once before withering away, so be sure to have plenty of seeds on hand.[19]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using an Offset or Pup [Edit]Germinating the Seeds - Bowl or container
- Air plant seeds
- Cheesecloth
- Water
- Spray bottle
- Liquid fertilizer
[Edit]Caring for Air Plants - Water
- Spray bottle
- Bowl
- Liquid fertilizer
[Edit]References |
| How to Remove Weeds from Cracks Posted: 21 Oct 2020 01:00 AM PDT Weeds are invasive plants that can overrun your desirable plants and cause damage to housing and yard materials. While some weeds are fairly easy to kill, they can be a bit tricky to remove when they sprout up through the cracks in your driveway, walkways, porch, or pavers. To kill the weeds growing in these cracks, you can use a variety of different home remedies or purchase a commercially-available weed killing liquid or device. You can also remove weeds from cracks by digging up the plants and their roots before sealing the cracks with concrete or gravel. [Edit]Killing Weeds with Home Remedies - Pour boiling water over the cracks to kill weeds safely. Bring a large pot of water to a boil on the stove. Then, carefully pour the boiling water over the leaves and stems of the weeds, as well as in the cracks surrounding the base of the plants.[1]
- The heat from the water will cause the plants to start to wilt immediately, and will kill the roots over the following days or weeks.
- Boiling water is a great option because it easily gets into the cracks and doesn't leave harmful residue in the soil.
- This method is generally most effective on young weeds.[2]
- Spray a salt and dish soap solution on the weeds to kill them. Dissolve 1 part table salt or rock salt to 8 parts of hot water. Then, stir in a quarter-sized squirt of dish soap and pour the solution into a spray bottle. Spray the solution over the weeds carefully and try to avoid getting any on nearby soil, plants, or pavement to prevent damage.[3]
- Repeat this process every few weeks as needed until the weeds have died and stopped sprouting.
- The salt and dish soap solution can discolor and erode cement and kill the surrounding plants.
- For a quick and easy option, sprinkle rock salt or table salt on the weeds to kill them. This is less effective for stubborn weeds, though.[4]
- Use white vinegar to kill the weeds growing in cracks. Pour white vinegar into a spray bottle and douse the weeds with it. You can also simply pour the vinegar directly from the bottle onto the weeds.[5]
- Most regular white vinegar is about 5% acetic acid and will get the job done. However, for stubborn weeds, you may need to get horticultural vinegar that's 20% acetic acid. Horticultural vinegar is available at most gardening stores.
- Adding a quarter-sized squirt of dish soap to the vinegar may make it more effective.[6]
- Apply a Borax solution to remove unwanted weeds from cracks. Mix of Borax with of water in a large bowl. Then, apply the solution directly to the unwanted weeds and into the cracks around the weeds. You can use a spray bottle to apply the solution or pour it directly onto the plants from the bowl.[7]
- Borax can irritate your skin, so you may want to wear gloves when handling the solution.
- Sprinkle baking soda into the cracks for a natural way to kill the weeds. Sprinkle as much baking soda as you need to cover the tops of the weeds. If you spilled any baking soda around the cracks, use your hands or a brush to sweep it into the cracks so that none is wasted. Repeat this process every 4 to 6 weeks until the weeds are gone.[8]
- Apply baking soda in the spring and fall to new, young weeds for the best results.
[Edit]Using Commercial Weed Killers - Pour a liquid chemical weed killer over the weeds to remove them. Purchase an all-purpose weed killer, or choose one specifically formulated for the type of weeds that you're dealing with. Follow the instructions on the label to apply the liquid over the weeds. For easier application, you can dilute some concentrated herbicides with water in a spray bottle. Check the instructions to see how to dilute the liquid and how much to spray on the weeds.[9]
- If the weed killer you're using contains chemicals that are harmful to humans, wear protective glasses, long-sleeves, and gloves to protect your skin and eyes from exposure.[10]
- It takes about 2 weeks for commercial liquid weed killers to kill off the weeds.
- Torch weeds with a flame-weeder to get rid of them immediately. Follow the instructions for your specific device to turn on the flame-weeder and let it heat up. Then, pass the torch flame over the weeds in the cracks briefly to damage the cell structure of the weeds without actually catching them on fire. Don't allow the flames to touch the tops of the weeds.[11]
- You may need to apply heat to the area a few times to ensure that the roots are dead and won't re-sprout.[12]
- Flame-weeders are available online and at many garden supply stores. You can also use an ordinary propane torch.
- Avoid using a flame-weeder near flammable materials like wooden decking or dry grass.
- Apply heat directly on the weeds to kill them with a weed steamer. Add water to the steamer and turn it on so the water starts to heat up. Then, hold the steamer over the weeds and press down the designated button for about 5 seconds to release the steam onto the weeds. Repeat this process over all the weeds you want to remove.[13]
- Operating instructions may vary, so make sure you read them carefully before using your weed steamer.
- The leaves will start to wilt and die immediately, but it generally takes 1-2 days for the entire plant to die.[14]
- You can also use a home steam-cleaning machine in the same manner.[15]
[Edit]Digging up Weeds and Sealing the Cracks - Scoop the weeds and roots out of the cracks with a stake. Using a garden stake, screwdriver, or similarly shaped object, dig up under the weeds and scrape inside the cracks until all the weeds and their roots have been removed. Repeat this process in all the cracks until all of them are clear and only the dirt remains.[16]
- It may be helpful to spray the cracks with a hose or pressure washer to loosen the dirt and make the weeds easier to scrape out.[17]
- Use a pressure washer to remove the dirt and any lingering roots. Once all the weeds are removed, spray the cracks directly with a pressure washer. This will help lift out any dirt remaining in the cracks, as well as any weed roots that you weren't able to reach.[18]
- Insert a foam caulking backer rod to fill the gaps or cracks. Measure the length of gaps or cracks in the cement where you removed the weeds. Using a box cutter or knife, cut the foam caulking backer rod to fit the length of the cracks. Then, place the foam into the cracks and press it down until it's wedged securely inside.[19]
- Foam caulking backer rods are bendable and come in a variety of sizes at most home improvement stores, so you should be able to find a size that will fit in the cement cracks.
- Some large gaps in concrete are left on purpose to allow the concrete to expand and contract as needed to prevent cracking. The foam allows the concrete to continue to contract while filling the gap to prevent weeds from growing.
- Apply roofing cement in the cracks to seal them and prevent regrowth. Remove the cap on the end of the roofing cement nozzle. Place the bottle into an epoxy or roofing cement dispenser. Place the nozzle into the crack in the cement and press down on the dispenser handle to start dispensing the cement into the cracks. Follow the cracks with the nozzle to line them with roofing cement and fill them in.[20]
- You can also use epoxy or blacktop filler instead of roofing cement to seal the cracks. However, blacktop filler may not be as durable in the long run as roofing cement or epoxy.[21]
- Let the cement or epoxy dry for 72 hours before driving or walking on it. To allow the roofing cement or epoxy to dry completely, avoid walking or driving over it for at least 72 hours.[22] Drying times may vary depending on the specific product you're using, however, so check the label to make sure.
- The roofing cement or epoxy will likely dry on the surface within 24 hours, but may take 72 hours to completely cure.
- Fill the cracks with sand or gravel for a less permanent solution. If you want to prevent the weeds from growing back but you don't want to permanently fill them with roofing cement or epoxy, try packing the gaps with sand or gravel.[23] Pour the sand or gravel into the cracks, pressing it down until it's tightly packed. Repeat this process until all the cracks or gaps are filled.
- Because sand and gravel can come loose over time, you may need to repack the gaps and cracks periodically to keep them filled.
[Edit]Warnings - Always wear protective gloves and eyewear when you're handling harsh chemicals.
- Keep both flame-weeders and weed steamers away from flammable materials. In addition, avoid coming into contact with the flame or steam, as both of these can severely burn your skin.
[Edit]References |
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