| How to Sew a Belt Loop Posted: 19 Oct 2020 05:00 PM PDT Whether you're finishing or repairing a garment, sewing the belt loops only takes a few minutes. If you're making your own, choose any material you want and sew them any size you like. In general, most clothes have between 5 and 7 loops, but you can customize the number you add to your belt. Repairing belt loops is even easier than adding them, especially if you reinforce the belt before you sew the loop back on. [Edit]Making Belt Loops - Measure the belt width and add to find the loop length. Before you cut your fabric, measure how wide the belt is so you know how long to make the loop. Then, add to the measurement since you'll be tucking the ends of the loop under.[1]
- For example, if your belt is wide, add to get a loop length of .
- Choose 5 loops for women's pants or 7 loops for men's. Most standard jeans or pants for women have 5 loops; 2 for the side seams, 2 for the front, and 1 at the center back seam. If you're making men's jeans, add an extra 2 loops on the back of the pants.[2]
- Feel free to add more loops if you like, especially if they're lightweight loops for a flowy skirt or dress.
- Cut a strip of fabric that's long enough for all the loops you're sewing. Decide how many loops you want to sew to your belt and multiply that number by the loop length. Then, use fabric chalk to mark a piece of matching fabric with the measurement. Make the strip 3 times as wide as you want the finished loops to be.[3]
- For example, if you want to make 5 finished loops that are each long and wide, cut the strip long and wide.
- Fold the fabric in thirds lengthwise and iron it flat. Lay the strip of fabric so the wrong side faces up. Fold 1 of the long edges towards the middle by 1/3. Then, fold the other long edge towards the center by 1/3 so the strip is narrow. Press a hot or warm iron along the strip so the folds stay in place.[4]
- Read the care instructions for your fabric so you know what temperature to heat the iron to.
- Sew a straight topstitch along both edges of the strip. Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches the color of your garment's topstitching. Then, sew straight stitches across each of the long sides of the strip. Sew as close to the edge as you can.[5]
- Cut the strip into equal lengths for your loops. Refer back to the loop length measurement you took earlier and mark this measurement along the strip of fabric. Then, cut out the equal-sized pieces so you have your loops ready to attach to the belt.[6]
- Don't worry about sewing the short ends of the strip since you'll be cutting the strip into separate loops.
[Edit]Attaching New Loops - Tuck of each end under the loop and iron it flat. To hide the raw edges of the loops, fold of each end under and set them on your ironing board. Press down on the loops with a warm iron for about 5 seconds.[7]
- The heat from the iron prevents the ends from unfolding before you sew them to the belt.
- Center the middle of each loop on the waistline and pin it to the belt. Take 1 of the loops and stick a sewing pin through the middle of it. Then, use it to attach the loop vertically to the waistline. Line up the loop so the top edge is straight against the top of the belt. Then, pin the rest of your loops around the waistline.[8]
- In general, place 2 loops on the front of the belt, 2 loops on the side seams, and 1 loop in the center back of the belt. If you're attaching more than 5 loops, space the other loops so they're an even distance apart.
- Remember to keep the ends of the loops tucked under.
- Sew straight stitches across the ends of each loop onto the pants. Once you're happy with the positioning of the loops, take the garment to your sewing machine and sew straight across the top edge of each loop to secure it to the pants. Remember to sew reverse stitch across the loop so it's even sturdier. Then, straight stitch along the bottom edge of each loop.[9]
- If your sewing machine is struggling to work through the loop and fabric, switch to a walking foot.
[Edit]Repairing Ripped Loops - Trim the waistband fabric if it's torn. Your torn belt loop probably created a hole in the waistband when it pulled away. If it's fraying, take scissors and trim away the fuzzy fibers. This makes it easier to repair and looks neater when you finish.[10]
- If the loop simply came loose from the belt without damaging it, you can skip to putting the loop back in place and sewing over it.
- Cut a piece of matching fabric and baste it to the underside of the waistband. Make a fabric patch that's larger than the hole you're fixing and use the same style of fabric in a matching color. Then, turn your garment inside out and put the patch wrong-side up over the hole. Sew a few long straight stitches to baste the patch to the garment. This holds it in place as you sew.[11]
- If you don't want to make basting stitches, cut strips of fusible bonding tape and place them along the edges of the patch so they're sandwiched between the garment. Then, iron over the fabric to fuse the patch to the garment.
- Sew over the patch to secure it and cover the hole in the waistband. Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches the color of the garment fabric. Then, with the fabric right side up, sew straight stitches back and forth over the entire hole so you secure the patch to the garment. Then, turn the garment 90-degrees and sew back and forth over the patch to make it even sturdier.[12]
- Ensure that you're sewing onto the garment when you reach the edges of the patch.
- Trim the back of the patch to remove excess fabric. Turn the garment inside out so you can see the back of the patch. Use scissors to carefully cut the excess fabric from the edges so the patch isn't as bulky.[13]
- Don't cut into the stitches of your patch or it may fray and unravel.
- Unpick the original stitches from the end of your loop. Your machine might not be able to sew through the tight stitches on the end of the loop. Use a seam ripper to tear out the stitches from the loop's loose end.[14]
- Removing the stitches before you sew the loop in place also gives it a more polished appearance.
- Put the loop back into place and zigzag stitch across each end of the loop. Tuck the raw end of the loop under itself and realign the loop so it's across the belt. Then, sew small zigzag stitches across the loop so they're from the folded edge. Press the reverse button and zigzag back across the loop so it's really secure. Then, trim the thread from both sides of your garment.[15]
- If you prefer the look of straight stitches, sew small, straight stitches across the end of the loop instead of using zigzag stitches.
- Use thread that matches the color of the topstitched thread of the garment. For example, if you're mending dark blue jeans that have gold topstitching, use gold thread to sew the loops.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Making Belt Loops - Fabric
- Scissors
- Sewing machine
- Iron
- Ironing board
- Ruler or measuring tape
[Edit]Attaching New Loops - Garment
- Scissors
- Iron
- Ironing board
- Sewing pins
- Sewing machine
[Edit]Repairing Ripped Loops - Sewing machine
- Scissors
- Fabric
- Damaged belt loop
- Seam ripper
- Fusible bonding tape, optional
- Iron and ironing board, optional
[Edit]References |
| How to Paint White Walls Posted: 19 Oct 2020 09:00 AM PDT A fresh coat of white paint can really brighten up a room and make it look sharp and modern. White décor can even make rooms look bigger, so it's ideal for smaller apartments or bedrooms. Painting a wall isn't a special skill, but painting walls white requires a few tricks for the best results. With the right preparation, priming, and application, the darker base color won't bleed through and your walls will look brand new! [Edit]Prepping the Room - Remove any furniture, frames, or fixtures from the room and walls. Move as much furniture out of the room as possible so you can paint without any obstructions. If you have any removable frames, pictures, or decorations on the wall, remove them before you get started. Then go around the wall and remove any light fixtures or outlet covers so they don't get in the way.[1]
- If you can't remove all of the furniture from the room, make sure you cover it with a sheet to keep it clean.
- Put all of the fixtures or outlets into a bag so you don't lose any pieces. Keep track of all the screws you remove so you can put the fixtures back.
- Put painter's tape over electrical outlets, plugs, and wires so you don't get any paint in them.
- Tape a drop cloth or sheet over the floor. Painting is always a messy job, even if you're careful. Cover the whole floor with a drop cloth long enough to stretch from one wall to the other. Tape the cloth down so no paint drips underneath it.[2]
- You might need multiple drop cloths to cover the whole floor.
- Tape off the areas that you don't want to paint. Even if you're a skilled painter, you could still slip in some spots. Run painter's tape along the edge of the wall along the ceiling, baseboards, and any molding along the wall. This protects any spots that you don't want to paint.[3]
- Paint can still bleed through tape, so try to avoid painting over it. It's just there as a precaution.
- Open the windows to get rid of any paint fumes. It's much safer to work in a well-ventilated area, so open all the windows in the room. Continue airing out the room when you're done painting so the fumes don't build up.[4]
- If you're sensitive to paint fumes, use a window fan to pull more fumes out.
- You can also prevent fumes from getting into other rooms by taping a plastic sheet over the doorway.
[Edit]Pre-Treating the Walls - Repair any cracks or holes in the wall before painting. Any imperfections on the wall will show clearly under white paint, so go over the wall carefully to find cracks or holes. Fill them in with spackle or caulk. Scrape away any excess filler so the repair is flat, then let it dry. Sand the repairs down so they're smooth and don't show through the paint.[5]
- Spackle could take 1-4 hours to dry, depending on the type. Caulk can dry in as little as 30 minutes. Check the instructions on the product you use and give the repairs enough time to dry.
- Sand the walls lightly. This helps the primer and paint stick, and will make white paint look especially good. Use 120-grit sandpaper and lightly sand the wall, along with any other surfaces that you're painting. Use a gentle, circular motion and work your way across the wall.[6]
- Pay special attention to any rough or raised spots. Smooth them out so they don't show through the paint.
- Always wear a dust mask while you're sanding, even if the windows are open.
- If you have textured walls, then skip the sanding. You could remove the texture accidentally.
- Clean the walls with warm water to remove any dirt. Dust and dirt can show through white paint, so make sure the walls are completely clean before painting.[7] Fill a bucket with warm water and add a few drops of mild dish soap. Dip and wring out a sponge, then wash all the walls in a circular motion. Rinse the walls with a damp cloth afterward.[8]
- Let the walls dry completely before you start painting.
- If you're painting a textured wall, it'll be tougher to clean. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to get dirt out of the grooves and crevices before washing the wall with a sponge.[9]
[Edit]Applying the Paint - Match the shade of white paint to the room. You might think there is only one type of white, but there are actually many different shades. Some have a slightly blue tint, some are closer to cream, and some lean closer to gray. Shop for different color choices and get a few samples to see how they look in your room. Pick the one that matches the décor the best.[10]
- Hold the paint samples up to the wall to see if they match the existing décor and look good in the light.
- If you can't decide on a color, paint a small section of the wall and leave it there for a few days. Notice how the light hits that spot and how it complements the rest of the room. If it looks good, then pick that one.
- You could also ask a designer at the hardware store for suggestions on the best shade.
- Choose a gloss or semi-gloss paint so the walls are easier to clean. White paint is more vulnerable to stains and hand prints, so you'll probably have to work a bit harder to keep the walls clean. Gloss or semi-gloss paints are easier to clean and wash, so these are the best paint choices for white walls.[11]
- Gloss paints can show any imperfections like cracks or holes more clearly, so be sure you've repaired and sanded the surface before painting.
- Apply white stain-blocking primer so the base color won't bleed through. Stain-blocking primer is ideal for white paint because it absorbs base colors and prevents them from bleeding through. The best way to apply primer is with a roller. Pour the primer into a paint tray and dip the roller in. Wipe off any excess on the side of the tray. Then roll a primer onto wall sections roughly by , re-wetting the roller as you need to. Work across the wall until you've covered it all.[12]
- If you have to paint corners or edges, brush the primer on with a regular paintbrush.
- Primers come in a few different colors, but use a white one since you're using white paint.
- Apply an extra coat of primer if you're painting over a dark color. In most cases, one coat or primer is enough. However, if the base color was dark, like brown, black, or red, then use a second coat of primer to be safe. Wait 3-4 hours for the first coat to dry, then apply another. This should block the base color from showing through the new paint. Then wait another 3-4 hours for the second coat to dry.[13]
- If you have any doubts about whether or not you need a second primer coat, then apply a second coat. You don't want to finish painting only to realize the base color is bleeding through.
- Sand the wall again after the primer dries. This helps the paint stick even better and should give you a more even coat. After the primer dries, lightly sand the entire wall again with 120-grit sandpaper.[14]
- Brush the paint around corners and along edges. This is called cutting in, and it helps you avoid getting paint where you don't want it. Dip your brush into the paint and wipe off any excess. Then brush a line of paint thick along the tape that you put down. Continue until you've filled in the edges of the wall.[15]
- Also brush on either side of each corner, since you won't be able to reach into there with a roller.
- Roll a thick coat of paint onto the wall. You can apply the paint the same way that you applied the primer. Pour the paint into a paint tray and wet your roller. Wipe off any excess so the roller is just damp with paint. Roll the paint onto the wall in alternating M and W patterns until you cover each by section, then move on. Continue in that pattern until you've covered the whole wall.[16]
- Since you're painting with white, lay the paint down thick. This prevent the base color from bleeding through. If any drips, roll over it with your roller so you don't cause any drip lines on the final coat.
- Make sure you use a clean roller or tray so you don't mix primer and paint.
- Paint usually takes 8 hours to dry, but check the drying time for the specific paint that you use.
- Paint a second coat when the first one dries. Most walls need 2 coats for good coverage. Use a brush and cut in around the edges of the wall like you did before. Then roll on the paint in the same M and W pattern that you used for the first coat. Continue until you've covered the whole surface, then let the paint dry.[17]
- In most cases, 2 coats are enough. However, if the paint dries and you can still see some of the base color, then add a third.
- Let the paint cure for 24-48 hours. Paint needs at least a day to dry completely. Leave it alone and don't touch it for 24-48 hours. After that time passes, then you can continue with redecorating your room.[18]
- Clean up when you're done painting. Once the paint is all dry, you can clean the room. Pull up the drop cloth and remove all of the tape you put on the walls. Reinstall and fixtures or switches that you removed as well.[19]
- Try to roll up and fold the drop cloth when you pick it up. This way, you won't spread any dust in your home. Then take it outside and let it air out.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - White paint
- Stain-blocking primer
- 120-grit sandpaper
- Rollers
- Paintbrush
- Drop cloth
- Spackle
- Painter's tape
- Dust mask
- Sponge
- Warm water
- Dish soap
- Always wear old clothes when you're painting so you don't ruin a good outfit.
[Edit]Warnings - White walls get dirty much easier and require more upkeep. Be ready to clean the walls more often if you paint them white.
[Edit]References |
| How to Solve Kakuro Posted: 19 Oct 2020 01:00 AM PDT Kakuro is a Japanese puzzle game that is solved by inputting numerical combinations and using simple math. It's not the same as Sudoku, but if you're a Sudoku fan, you're sure to love Kakuro! The principle is very simple: fill each cell in the grid with a single digit so that each row or column has the indicated sum without repeating a digit. That may sound simple enough, but there are special rules that make the game pretty challenging—and super fun! [Edit]Learning the Basic Rules - Enter numbers between 1 and 9 in the empty boxes or cells. Keep in mind that you cannot use zero in this game. Any number you enter into a single cell on the board must be a number between 1 and 9.[1]
- There will be prefilled cells on every game board that already have numbers in them. These numbers are called "clues."[2]
- The game board will probably have prefilled numbers or "clues" that are over 9, but the player cannot use anything over 9.
- Do not write numbers in the shaded cells. The shaded boxes remain empty for the entire game. They break up the columns and rows into smaller "chunks" to create more space for gameplay on the board. The "clues" appear in the shaded boxes only. Any completely blank box is yours to work with.[3]
- For example, 1 horizontal column might have a total 6 boxes. 3 of the boxes could be blank and 3 could be shaded. You can enter numbers in the blank boxes only. The shaded boxes break the column into separate chunks.
- Some shaded boxes have diagonal lines across the middle to create 2 triangles. A clue will appear in the top right triangle (above the diagonal line) or in the bottom left triangle (below the diagonal line). Horizontal clues always appear in the top right triangle. Vertical clues always appear in the bottom left triangle.
- Some bisected boxes will have a clue in the top and bottom boxes. This means the box is part of a horizontal and a vertical run simultaneously.
- Enter 1-9 in blank boxes to make the horizontal block add up to the clue. Each cluster of squares follows this rule. The player's goal is to fill in the blank horizontal boxes with numbers that add up to the provided "clue" at the far left of the horizontal column.[4]
- For example, say the provided clue is 6 and you have 3 empty boxes on that horizontal cluster. You could use the following combinations since they all add up to 6: 1-2-3, 1-3-2, 2-3-1, 2-1-3, 3-1-2, or 3-2-1.
- Input 1-9 so the sum of each vertical block equals the clue on top. The horizontal cells have to add up to a provided clue on the left, but simultaneously, the vertical blocks have to add up to their clue at the top. This is what makes the game so tricky! It's a game of numerical balance.[5]
- For example, say you have a horizontal row with 3 blank boxes and the clue is 22. The first blank box is also part of a vertical row of 2 blank boxes with a clue of 6. The first box in the horizontal row must also match up with that vertical row to equal a sum of 6.
- A solution for the horizontal row could be 5 + 8 + 9. Since the vertical row has 2 boxes and the clue is 6, 1 would be the answer to complete the vertical row since 5 + 1 = 6.
- Do not repeat any numbers between 1 and 9 in a single sum group. For each horizontal (row) and vertical (column) sum group, you have to use any number that's 1-9 but you can only use a particular number once. This is what makes the game even tougher! You can order strings of numbers any way that you'd like, though.[6]
- For example, if the "clue" is 6 and you need to input 2 numbers, you can't use 3 + 3 since that would be repeating the number 3 in the same run.
- You can repeat the same number in the same row or column as long as there is at least 1 "clue" or shaded box between them.
[Edit]Using Different Solving Strategies - Start by filling in the common numbers. This is the easiest strategy for beginners to implement and it's the perfect way to start a game. To demonstrate: If a row has a sum (or clue) of 16 over 2 blank squares and a column has a sum (or clue) of 17 over 2 blank squares, the only possible values are 7-9 for the row and 8-9 for the column. That means the common value for the intersecting box is 9.[7]
- You would enter "9" in the blank box and move on to the next box to solve.
- Another example: Suppose a horizontal sum of 23 with 3 blank boxes intersects a vertical sum of 28 with 7 blank boxes. The horizontal row can only be 6 + 8 + 9. The vertical row can only be 1 + 2 + 3 + 4 + 5 + 6 + 7. The only digit in common is a 6, so that must be in the intersection.
- Look for clues that can only be solved 1 way and fill in those numbers. Some clues will always require the same number combination (although the order that the numbers appear can vary). Since these are always the same, memorizing them will definitely make solving puzzles a little easier for you. Some of the specific clues and their corresponding number combinations are:[8]
- The sum 3 (across two cells) will always be 1 + 2
- The sum 4 (across two cells) will always be 1 + 3
- The sum 17 (across two cells) will always be 8 + 9
- The sum 6 (across three cells) will always be 1 + 2 + 3
- The sum 24 (across three cells) will always be 7 + 8 + 9
- Use pencil marks to help you avoid mistakes and figure out solutions. Use a pencil to lightly write in the possible values for each clue in the blank boxes. As you keep working to figure out other clues, certain numbers will be eliminated from your pool of options. When that happens, erase that number.[9]
- When you're down to 1 digit left as a possible solution, you'll know that's the number you need to "officially" enter in the blank box.
- Compare restrictions for the crossing rows to make further deductions. If a specific number has already been used in a row or column, it cannot be used again in that same row or column. That means you can erase those lightly penciled in numbers for potential combinations.[10]
- For example, if a horizontal clue of 27 with 4 boxes crosses a vertical clue of 16 (with all of the boxes filled) and the intersecting box contains a 3. You can erase any penciled-in combinations for the horizontal box that don't include a 3 since that digit is already in place.
- Look for boxes that only have 1 option left. Since numbers can only be used once in a row or column, you can figure out the remaining blank boxes pretty easily once you get to a certain point in the game. Many numbers will be disqualified as options at that point, leaving only 1 possible option for the blank box.[11]
- Go ahead and fill those numbers in as you figure them out.
- Continue reevaluating options using new information to solve the game. Every time you fill in a box, it will reveal certain options and limitations that help you further deduce your options. So, every time you enter a number into a blank box, reevaluate all of the remaining options for the boxes around it. Keep doing this until you solve the game by filling in all of the blank boxes![12]
- These puzzles will only have 1 correct way to solve them. There won't be any variation in the number combinations. Basically, there's only 1 correct and unique solution to every game.[13]
- Work on one run at a time so you don't get confused.
- Always build off the previous run to figure out new answers. Each solved box provides a new clue!
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
No comments:
Post a Comment