| How to Put Up a Hammock Posted: 17 Nov 2017 04:00 PM PST Before you can lay down and relax in your hammock, you have to hang it up. You can hang your hammock up outside or inside, using trees or walls as supports. It's important you use the right tools to hang your hammock so it's secure when you're laying in it. Make sure your hammock is hung up high enough so you're not resting on the ground when you get in! EditHanging a Hammock Outside - Find 2 trees to hang your hammock between. Look for healthy, sturdy trees and avoid trees that are young and thin. Try to find 2 trees that are spaced apart the same distance as the length of your hammock. If the trees are closer together than that, don't use them or your body will be resting on the ground when you're in your hammock.[1]
- If the distance between 2 trees is greater than the length of your hammock, you can use chains or rope to make your hammock reach. Just try not to go over 18 inches (45.7 cm) extra on each side of your hammock or it could rip.
- Wrap a tree strap around each tree. Tree straps are fabric straps with a loop on one end and a metal ring on the other. Using tree straps will prevent the trees you hang your hammock on from getting damaged. Wrap a tree strap around one of the trees you found and pass the metal ring through the loop. Repeat with a second tree strap on the other tree.[2]
- You can find tree straps online or at your local outdoor supplies store.
- Hook the tree strap rings to the rings on the ends of the hammock. Use either S-hooks or carabiners to hook the rings together. Make sure the hooks you're using are designed to withstand heavy loads. Check the packaging before you buy hooks to see how much weight they hold, and make sure to get hooks that will hold at least your body weight.[3]
- Adjust the height of your hammock. If you're using a hammock with spreader bars (wooden bars on each end of the hammock that keep it spread out), hang your hammock 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5 meters) up the trunk of the tree. If you're using a traditional hammock without spreader bars, hang it at 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4 meters) up the tree. Slide the tree straps up or down the base of the trees they're attached to until the hammock is at the right height.[4]
- If your body is resting on the ground when you get in your hammock, raise the tree straps up to raise the hammock.
EditHanging a Hammock Indoors - Choose 2 walls to hang your hammock between. The distance between the walls should be at least the length of your hammock. Choose sturdy walls that have studs in them that can support the weight of the hammock.[5]
- If your hammock is too big for two walls that are facing each other, hang your hammock diagonally instead.
- Use a stud finder to find the studs in the walls. Hold the stud finder flat against one of the walls, near the section of the wall you want to hang your hammock from. Press the calibrate button on the stud finder and wait for it to stop flashing or beeping. Then slowly move the stud finder across the surface of the wall horizontally. When the stud finder beeps, stop moving it and mark the spot where the stud is with a pencil. Repeat on the other wall.[6]
- Test the spot a few times with the stud finder to make sure it's not a false reading.
- You can pick up a stud finder at your local hardware store.
- Drill a hole into the stud in each wall at the same height. Make sure the holes are deep enough for a screw to go all the way in them.[7] If your hammock has spreader bars that keep it spread open, drill the holes between 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5 meters) high. If your hammock doesn't have spreader bars, drill the holes between 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4 meters) high.[8]
- Screw a heavy-duty eye bolt into each hole. Look for eye bolts at your local hardware store that are designed to carry heavy loads. Make sure the eye bolts you use are able to hold your body weight. Twist each eye bolt counterclockwise until the screw part on the bolt is completely in the hole.[9]
- Attach the ends of your hammock to the eye bolts using an S-hook. You can also use carabiners designed to hold heavy loads. Make sure whatever kind of hook you use is able to hold your body weight.
EditThings You'll Need EditHanging a Hammock Outside - Hammock
- Tree straps
- S-hooks or carabiners
EditHanging a Hammock Indoors - Hammock
- Stud finder
- Drill
- Eye bolts
- S-hooks or carabiners
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Gauge Your Ears Posted: 17 Nov 2017 08:00 AM PST Ear gauges are a bold and stylish way to express your individuality. If you've always wanted to gauge your ears, you can do so from the comfort of your home. Just get your ears pierced at a local studio, then use professional tools like tapers and surgical tape to stretch the holes out over time. As long as you have patience and practice good hygiene, you can gauge your ears safely. EditInserting Your First Gauge into Your Ear - Get your ears pierced at a trustworthy location. Although you can gauge your ears at home, you will need to get them pierced at a professional establishment. Piercing your ears at home increases your risk of infection, especially if you are gauging your ears afterward. You will be unable to use the same sterile equipment and technique as a licensed professional.
- Wait 6-10 weeks after piercing your ears to gauge them. Piercings must be fully healed before it is safe to gauge. If you do not want to wait the full ten weeks, watch for signs of healing. A healed ear piercing will not be tender to the touch and will not close if the piercing is removed for longer than several hours.[1]
- Do not gauge your ears if your piercing is infected. Signs of infection include swelling, yellow or greenish discharge, redness, irritation, and bleeding.[2]
- Begin stretching your ear with a size 16-20 gauge. Ears are typically pierced using an 18 or 20 gauge, so 16 is the largest gauge you can start on and avoid damaging your ears. Starting at any larger than this size puts your ear at-risk of tearing.[3]
- Purchase a set of ear tapers at a piercing studio. Many piercing studios offer a "stretching kit" of ear tapers in various sizes. Start with your size 16-20 ear taper, depending on your chosen gauge. Make sure that the stretching kit has your starting taper size before you purchase it.[4]
- Massage an oil lubricant around your piercing. The lubricant will help the taper slide into your piercing easily and without tearing your ear. Coconut oil or jojoba oil works especially well for gauging ears. Avoid using petroleum oil, which can get clogged in your piercing and cause infections.[5]
- Wash your hands before you massage the lubricant into your ears.
- Push your taper through your piercing. Most piercing tapers are smaller at one end. Push the smaller end into your piercing, paying attention to how your ear feels as you do so. Work slowly, and stop pushing the taper in if you feel any strong resistance.[6]
- Pushing the taper in may hurt but should not bleed. If your ear begins to bleed, you may have chosen too large of a taper. Remove the taper, treat and disinfect the wound, and wait until the wound has healed before inserting a smaller taper later on. When your ear has stopped bleeding, place the earring back in to prevent the hole from closing up.
- Replace the taper with your gauge. Align your jewelry with the large end of the taper, and finish pushing the taper through your ear until you reach the gauge. Push the gauge in through the temporary hole that the taper leaves. Repeat this process with the other ear if desired.[7]
- Once you have inserted the taper into your piercing, it can be replaced immediately with the gauge.
- Tapers are not designed to be worn as jewelry. Do not wear your tapers for any longer than several hours.
EditStretching Your Ear Further - Wait six weeks in between stretches. Do not remove your first gauge for at least a week after stretching, and only remove it for the first month while cleaning your gauges. Give your earlobes at least six weeks before stretching your ear with a taper or other method so your earlobes have time to heal.[8]
- Use surgical tape to gradually increase the gauge over time. After you've used 3 or 4 tapers to stretch your piercing, you can use the taping method to continue increasing your gauge size. Wrap your gauge with a thin layer of surgical tape and place it back in your ear.[9]
- Try this method if you have run out of tapers and d not want to purchase more.
- Increase the layers of tape around your ear gauge every six weeks so your ear has time to heal.
- Use ear weights to stretch your piercing in a short amount of time. Weighted gauges can stretch your ears quickly but usually do so at an uneven pace. Use ear weights for short-term stretching, but never wear them overnight. Replace them with unweighted gauges after several hours to avoid damaging your ear.
- Try tapered claws to painlessly stretch your gauge. Tapered claws or talons are used to slowly push through your piercing, much like regular tapers, but are created to be worn as jewelry. Tapered claws are usually the easiest and least painful method of stretching because they involve less inserting and removing.[10]
EditCaring for Gauged Ears - Clean your ears with antibacterial soap twice a day. Wash your hands before touching your ears to prevent infection. Apply antibacterial cream around the rim of your piercing to further prevent infection. Any more than two times a day can irritate your piercing.[11]
- Use a cotton swab to remove any dried skin or crust around your piercing.
- Massage your earlobe for five minutes every day. Massage your ear once or twice a day, preferably right after you have washed your ear. This will help your ear heal and accommodate to its new stretched size. Apply jojoba or vitamin-E oil as you massage your ears to keep your piercing soft and stretchy.[12]
- Remove your gauge for cleaning after a week. To prevent your piercing from smelling bad or getting infected, remove your gauge a week after you last stretched your ear and wash it with an antibacterial soap. Rinse the gauge before inserting it back in your ear. While your ear gauge is out, rub some jojoba or vitamin-E oil in and around your piercing.[13]
- Once you are finished stretching your ears and six weeks have passed since your last stretching session, you can insert and remove your gauges as you please without risking shrinkage.
- Watch for signs of infection. Redness, swelling, and green or yellow discharge are the most common signs of infection. Not all of these signs necessarily mean your ears are infected: you may just have minor ear irritation. But if you notice two or more infection symptoms, visit a piercer or medical professional for treatment.[14]
- See a doctor immediately if you notice any severe infection symptoms, such as thick, bad smelling discharge; red streaks coming from your piercing; fever or chills; nausea; dizziness or disorientation; or any minor infection symptoms for more than a week.
- If you notice any signs of infection, check your lymph nodes. Swollen lymph nodes are another sign of infection.
- Ask your parent or guardian before gauging your ears.
- Make sure you purchase gauges and stretching materials from a professional source so you can trust them.
- Check your school or work dress codes before gauging your ears so you can plan accordingly.
- Never put everyday objects (like pencils) through your gauge holes. The bacteria on these objects can cause infections.
- Do not submerge your ear in water while it is healing in-between stretches. Wear a swim cap while visiting pools or bathing.
- Do not skip sizes when stretching with tapers. Skipping sizes puts you at a greater risk for tearing and infections.
- Once you have stretched your ears with a gauge, it is difficult to shrink your piercing holes without surgery. Do not gauge your ears unless you are positive that you want this look for the long-term.[15]
EditThings You'll Need - Ear gauge
- An ear taper set
- Jojoba, coconut, or vitamin-E oil
- Surgical tape
- Antibacterial soap
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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| How to Sew Patches Posted: 17 Nov 2017 12:00 AM PST You can sew patches to cover up a hole, or as an embellishment on a fabric item. There are several things you can do to ensure that your patches serve their purpose and look good, such as sizing the patch material, securing the patch in place before sewing, and using the right type of stitch to secure your patch in place. Try sewing on your own patches the next time you need to cover up a hole or embellish something. EditSewing a Patch to Cover a Hole - Get a patch that matches the fabric. It is important to make sure that your patch matches the fabric in your item. Otherwise, it will stand out from the rest of the material. Look for a patch that matches the fabric of your item as closely as possible.
- If you do not want to buy a patch, then you can also use a scrap of fabric. Visit a local craft store to find fabric that matches your item, or visit a thrift shop and find something that you can cut up. You can even cut a scrap of fabric off of an old item that you no longer need or want.
- Snip away any frayed edges. Frayed edges will get in the way when you are trying to sew the patch in place. They will also cause the patch to stand out more. Use a pair of scissors to snip away any frayed edges on your item. Try to make the edges of the hole as even as possible.[1]
- Cut the patch as needed. You may need to cut your patch material down a bit depending on the size of the hole. Cut the patch so that it is large enough to cover the hole and any weakened areas of the item.[2]
- The patch should extend beyond the borders of the hole on all sides by about 1" (2.5 cm).
- Cut the patch so that it is the same shape as the hole as well. For example, if the hole is rectangular, then cut the patch into a similar rectangle.
- Turn the item inside out. The item needs to be inside out when you sew on the patch so that the edges of the patch will be hidden. Turn your item inside out.[3]
- Pin the patch in place. Next, identify where the patch needs to go and lay it over the hole. Make sure that all of the edges are completely covering the hole and that the front side of the patch is facing down. Insert pins through the patch and item fabric along each of the edges to secure the patch in place.
- If your patch has fusing on the back of it, then you may want to iron the patch to secure it in place until you sew it. Apply even pressure to the edges of the patch to secure the patch to the fabric. Do not use steam.
- You can also use some adhesive, such as fabric glue, or double-sided tape to hold the patch in place until you are ready to sew.
- Thread your sewing machine or needle. You can either use a sewing machine or hand sew your patch in place. Thread your sewing machine or needle with a thread that matches or will blend in with your fabric.
- If you cannot find an exact match for your fabric, then try using invisible thread.
- Depending on the thickness of your patch and item, you may want to use a heavy duty needle in your sewing machine or for hand sewing.[4] For example, if you are sewing a denim patch onto a pair of jeans, then a heavy duty needle will work best. You may also need to adjust the stitch length.
- Sew around the edges of the patch to secure it. Use a straight stitch on your sewing machine or sew a straight stitch by hand using a needle and thread. Sew about ½" (1.3 cm) from the raw edge of the patch to ensure that it is going through the fabric of your item. Sew around the edges of the patch three times to ensure that it is secure.[5]
- Remove the pins as you sew. Sewing over a pin may damage the needle and possibly even damage the machine.
- Trim the excess threads when you are finished.
EditSewing a Decorative Patch onto an Item - Determine where you want to place the patch. When you are sewing a patch onto the outside of an item, it is very important to consider the placement. You may need to have the patch in a specific place, such as for a scout badge on a sash or a patch on a nurse's lab coat. Or, if you are using a patch to embellish an item, then the placement of your patch may affect the look of your item. Identify where you want or need the patch to go before you sew.[6]
- Make sure the item is right side out.
- Pin the patch onto the item. When you feel confident about the placement of your patch, pin it in place to mark the position. Use 2 or more straight pins to secure the patch to the fabric. Insert the pins near the center of the patch so they will not get in the way when you sew.[7]
- If desired, you can also use a small amount of washable glue, such as Elmer's school glue, to help keep the patch in place while you sew.[8]
- Install a new heavy duty needle in your sewing machine. Patches that go on the outside of items are typically thick, so using a heavy duty needle will make sewing the patch in place much easier. Install a heavy duty needle in your sewing machine, such as a 90/14 universal needle.[9]
- If you are sewing by hand, then you should also use a heavy duty needle.
- Set your machine to a narrow zigzag stitch setting. A narrow zigzag setting works best for sewing patches onto items. This will ensure that the stitches go over the edges of the patch and through the patch as well. Set your machine to the zigzag stitch setting, and then reduce the stitch length and width to the narrowest possible size for your machine.[10]
- Sew around the edges of your patch. Raise your presser foot and needle and then line up the edge of your patch with the needle. Lower the presser foot and begin sewing around the edges of the patch. Go slowly to ensure that you only stitch along the edges of the patch. The zigzag stitch should overlap the edges of the patch and go into the fabric of your item right next to the patch.[11]
- You may also sew the patch in place by hand using a whipstitch if desired. However, this will take longer and the patch may not be attached as securely to your item. Using a sewing machine will be much quicker and the results will probably look better.
EditThings You'll Need - Patch or patch material
- Pins
- Scissors
- Adhesive, double sided tape, or an iron (optional)
- Sewing machine or needle and thread
- Heavy duty needle for your sewing machine or for hand sewing
EditSources and Citations
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