| How to Clean Rings Posted: 14 Jul 2022 01:00 AM PDT In order to clean your ring, you will need to be aware of the metal type. Each metal reacts uniquely with certain chemicals, and you don't want to risk rubbing your ring raw. You can remove light grime by wiping the ring with your finger, a soft cloth, and warm, filtered water. You can use jewelry-specific cleaning products to remove heavier stains, and you can gently brush your ring with toothpaste for a cheap home solution. You can remove tarnish by soaking your ring in water and ammonia. If your ring is especially intricate or valuable, consider taking it to a jeweler to have it professionally cleaned. [Edit]Knowing Your Metal - Identify the ring's metal. You may know that the ring is yellow gold, white gold, silver, or brass. However, you may not know the type of metal if you haven't bought the ring yourself. Take the ring to a jeweler, and he or she should be able to tell you how to clean the specific metals and gems that make up your ring.
- Clean different metals with the right products. Each metal reacts uniquely with various chemicals. It is important that you treat each metal with care to ensure that it lasts a long time.[1]
- Clean gold with a soft cloth and a commercial gold cleaner. Avoid soap and chlorine.[2]
- Silver usually needs a clean cloth and some water. You can also buy special silver cleaners.
- Diamonds need a special cleaning solution. Visit a jeweler or search online for diamond-specific cleaning products.[3]
- For cheap rings—the kind you might buy in a dollar store—use only your fingers to scrape off the grime.
[Edit]Cleaning Rings with Toothpaste - Find some cheap toothpaste. Make sure that the toothpaste contains baking soda and fluoride. The higher the concentration of Tin (II) fluoride, the better it is for metals. Tin (II) fluoride is used to strengthen both metals and tooth enamel. The cheaper the brand of the toothpaste, the better it will work.
- Squeeze the toothpaste onto a toothbrush along with a small amount (2-3 drops) of water. Use a clean toothbrush, and do not use the toothbrush on your teeth afterward. Gently rub the toothpaste into the jewelry as though you were brushing your teeth. If it gets gummy, add more water.
- Make sure to clean between any cracks or ridges in your ring. Use the toothbrush like you would use it on your teeth, brushing gently, firmly, and thoroughly.
- You should clean your ring every few weeks to months, depending on how often you wear it. Consider dedicating a toothbrush to ring-cleaning, and do not use it for anything else.
- Let the toothpaste chemicals act on the ring. After a little while, rinse the jewelry and watch it shine! You can use oils or anti-oxidizing agents (citric acids, no-ox, tarn-x, etc.) to promote and prolong the shine. If you need heavy-duty cleaning, use denture bonding agents like Fix-O-Dent, which will practically sandblast your jewelry if you brush them lightly into the material.
[Edit]Other Methods - Try rinsing with water. If your ring is stained with dirt, dead skin, blood, lotion, food, or other grime, try rinsing it with water before you use more abrasive cleaning agents. Fill a bowl with clean, filtered water, and rub the ring gently between your fingers as you hold it in the water. Let your ring dry in the sun.
- Don't use any towels or napkins to try to clean your ring, since it could scratch the surface or ruin any stones present. Don't pat it dry with a 100% cotton cloth.
- It's important to use thoroughly filtered water in this process. Try putting a magnet in a flour sifter, then running your tap water through that before using it to clean your ring. This will eliminate any metals containing magnetic properties—these metals are the ones that could ruin silver, gold, or other precious metals.
- If your ring seems particularly dirty, you can add a few drops of dish soap into the water and mix it in before cleaning.[4]
- Use a Q-Tip. If your ring isn't too dirty, you can swab off the grime with a cotton bud or Q-Tip. Dip the ring in lukewarm water and wipe the dirty spots. Let your ring air-dry. Do not try to scrub your ring, as this may cause damage.[5]
- Use a precious metal cleanser. Buy a cleaning product from the store that has the specified precious metals in your ring on the label—it should be easy to find. Look for a cleaner that comes with a cloth for application. Never use any regular house cleaner in order to clean rings, especially if your ring is made with any precious metals. Use a cleaner, not a polishing element, which serves a different purpose altogether.[6]
- Soak the ring in water and ammonia. To loosen dirt and grime, let the ring sit for 20 minutes in a solution of one cup warm water and 1/4 cup ammonia.[7]
- Rinse the ring in soapy water.
- Scrub the ring.
- Rinse in warm water and leave to dry.
- Follow these steps to rid your ring of tarnish:[8]
- Wrap the inside of a bowl with aluminum foil.
- Mix one cup warm water and one tablespoon baking soda in the foil.
- Place your ring in the water-soda mix, making sure it touches the foil.
- Leave your ring in the mixture for 10-30 minutes, or until it is free of tarnish.
- Varnish gold and silver rings with nail polish. Brush a coat of clear nail polish onto the ring so that the coat of gold or silver doesn't wear off, and so that rust doesn't grow on it. If your ring leaves green or colored marks on your finger, coat the inside with a light layer of nail polish to prevent staining.
- Consider taking your ring to a jeweler. If the ring is very important to you (e.g. a wedding ring or a class ring), consider taking it to a jeweler to be professionally polished. Most stores will provide a free cleaning or give you a solution and polishing cloth to use.[9]
- A jeweler can test for the presence of precious metals, as well as the quality of those metals. This information will help the jeweler decide which cleaning agents are safe to use.
- This is especially important for engraved rings. Cleaning a ring with engravings on it could potentially wipe off the inscription or design. If your ring has important engravings on it, take it to a jeweler.
- Clean your ring with alcohol swabs. Make sure not to scrub too hard. If the grime doesn't come off when you wipe it, you may need to try a heavier-duty solution.
- Use an ultrasonic cleaner. Ultrasonic cleaning machines can clean jewelry in a matter of minutes using high-frequency sound. You can find these machines in a variety of models and prices. They can be a convenient way to quickly clean your jewelry at home. However, ultrasonic cleaners can damage some jewelry.[10]
- Your local jeweler can tell you if an ultrasonic cleaning machine is right for your jewelry and recommend an appropriate model.
[Edit]Warnings - Be careful with engraved rings. Cleaning a ring with engravings on it could potentially wipe off the inscription or design.
- Do not leave your ring in water for longer than the recommended cleaning times. If your ring spends too much time underwater, it runs the risk of rusting.
- Don't press too hard, and do not use especially abrasive cleaning agents if you aren't sure that they're safe to use with the metal.
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Flatten Crumpled Paper Posted: 13 Jul 2022 05:00 PM PDT Have a piece of paper you wish you hadn't sat on, wadded up, folded by mistake, or even turned into a paper-airplane? It will usually look presentable and usable after wetting it slightly with distilled water, then pressing it between heavy books, or ironing it under a towel. These methods do risk tearing and color fading, so be careful. You may wish to take important pieces of paper to a professional archivist for preservation. [Edit]Pressing the Paper Flat - Mist the paper lightly with distilled water. When paper is crumpled, its fibers become damaged and torn. Water can soften these fibers so they lay flat again, reducing the visibility of wrinkles and crease lines. Only use distilled water, as ordinary tap water contains minerals that can make the paper feel crusty or hard.[1] Spray it lightly from at least one foot (0.3 meters) with a spray bottle, or dab gently with a slightly damp towel.
- Warning: Water can ruin watercolor, chalk, pastels, and water-soluble inks. If your paper contains these materials, mist extremely lightly on the back side of the paper. Alternatively, press the paper while dry to make it flat, but not remove the wrinkle lines.
- Sandwich the paper between absorbent material. If the paper is wet, place it between two layers of blotting paper, wool felt, or another materials that absorb water.[2]
- Paper towels can work, but the textured pattern on the towel may imprint onto the surface of the paper.[3]
- Sandwich the stack between heavy objects. Place the paper, and absorbent material around it, on a flat, hard surface. Smooth it out with your hands to make sure there are no major folds or crease. Cover the paper completely with a flat, heavy object. A stack of large, heavy books are often used for this purpose.
- Wait until it dries, checking daily. The paper should dry into a flat, mostly wrinkle-free surface, but it may take some time to do so. Check on it every day and replace the absorbent material if it feels soaked.
- Completely wet paper usually takes three or four days to dry, but a lightly sprayed piece of paper will probably take less than two.[4]
[Edit]Ironing the Paper Flat - Understand the risks. Ironing a piece of paper under a towel or cloth will make it flat, but the wrinkle and crease lines will usually still be visible. If you use steam or lightly wet the paper, as described near the end of this section, this may remove the wrinkle lines, but also increases the chance of fading colored ink or tearing the paper.
- If your paper is valuable or irreplaceable, try this method with a test piece first, or use the safer, but slower, pressing method.
- Set the paper under a towel or cloth. Smooth out the paper as flat as you can with your hands, to avoid setting the folds and creases in further. Lay a hand towel, pillowcase, or other heat-safe cloth over the paper, to protect it from the direct heat of the clothes iron.
- Set a clothes iron to a low heat. Starting at the lowest setting is recommended, to minimize the chance of damaging your paper. Too much heat can dry out the paper, making it brittle and yellow.
- Press the iron into the towel. Once the iron has warmed up, press it against the towel and move it across the surface, just like you would iron an item of clothing.
- Make adjustments if necessary. After about a minute of ironing the towel, lift the towel and look at the paper. If it is not yet flat, you can turn up the heat one setting and trying again. If the paper is already warm to the touch, leave the iron on a low setting, and instead lightly dab or spray the paper with a small amount of distilled water before you iron again. This helps remove the wrinkles, but can increase the risk of tearing.
- Do not apply water to a paper surface with watercolors, chalk, or other water-soluble materials.
[Edit]Learning about Professional Archival Treatments - Take valuable documents to a professional. Archivists and conservator-restorers are professionals who specialize in preserving historical artifacts, including paper. They should be able to flatten and preserve all paper materials at a high quality, including watercolors, old or fragile paper, and other objects that can be difficult to safely flatten at home.
- Search online for document archival services in your area, or ask a librarian for hep finding one.
- Learn about humidifying techniques. As mentioned in the other methods, wetting the paper, or "humidifying" it, can help remove wrinkles caused by torn and displaced fibers. Archivists often use special tools and extreme care to increase the humidity of the paper significantly. If you are brave, and have a few test pieces of paper to try out first, you can try to mimic some of these at home before pressing your paper. One of the easiest might be the "Horton Humidifier" method. Place the rolled-up paper in a plastic cup, open to the air. Place the cup in a plastic garbage can, add water to the bottom of the can, and close the garbage can lid.
- This can cause mold growth on the paper, which is difficult to treat at home. Some archivists use anti-fungal chemicals such as thymol or ortho-phenyl phenol, but these materials can be highly dangerous to the user and the paper if used incorrectly.
- Learn about ways to hold paper while drying. Pressing the paper flat is usually effective, using vices or clamps in addition to heavy objects if more pressure is needed. Another method, which can be used alone or in addition to pressing, involves the use of glue. By gluing the paper to another surface, using a special glue that will detach easily when dry, the paper will be kept in place as it dries, instead of curling or stretching when one portion of it loses water and shrinks.[5]
- Even archivists find it difficult to control the size change of paper after wetting. While barely noticeable for an individual sheet of paper, a stack of papers, papers glued or taped together to form a larger piece, or a bound book can feel noticeably different or uneven.[6]
- Store materials in a preservation envelope. One archivist's tool is widely available for commercial sale. Purchase archival-quality plastic envelopes to keep your important documents, family history, and other papers safe for decades if not centuries, protecting them from moisture and ultraviolet light.
- If your piece of paper isn't delicate, try putting it through a printer, but don't actually print anything. The printer will flatten out most wrinkles. Be careful; this can cause a paper jam.
- If you don't have the time or iron to flatten it, as shown above, a simple way to get most/some of the wrinkles and creases out is to repeatedly roll the paper over the side of a desk or table. It might not expunge all mistakes but will do the job for a few wrinkles.
- You can also try photocopying the piece of paper. A copy shop or library may have a larger photocopier that can press the paper flatter, if a home copier still produces the appearance of faint crease lines.
[Edit]Warnings - When ironing paper printed with toner (photocopy machines, laser printers) using a high heat setting can melt the toner and make it stick to your ironing board. Start with a lower heat setting and work your way up slowly until the paper is flattened to avoid this.
- Follow manufacturer's directions when using an iron.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Clothes Iron
- Ironing board or other suitable flat, heat resistant surface
- Towel
- Heavy objects
- Spray bottle
- Distilled water
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Melt Sugar Posted: 13 Jul 2022 09:00 AM PDT Melting sugar breaks the bonds of granulated sugar so it can be recrystallized into different shapes by using molds or other tools. Melting sugar is also the first step in making caramels and candies. The melting temperature determines what can be made with the sugar.[1] The process isn't difficult, but it's important to monitor the sugar carefully so it doesn't burn. See Step 1 to find out how to start. [Edit]Ingredients - 1 cup sugar
- 2 tablespoons water
[Edit]Melting Sugar - Measure out the sugar. Determine how much sugar you want to melt. Since sugar is so tricky to melt evenly without letting it burn, you shouldn't attempt to melt more than 2 cups at a time.[2] If you need more for your recipe, melt a second batch separately.
- Use white granular sugar, also known as table sugar.
- A good rule of thumb when melting sugar is that 2 cups of sugar will make enough melted sugar to make 1 cup of caramel.
- Place the sugar and cold water in a heavy-bottomed pot. A heavy-bottomed pot insures an even distribution of heat. A medium-sized saucepan is usually perfect to use for melting sugar. Aluminum or steel pots work best.
- Use half as much cold water by weight as the amount of sugar you are using.
- Make sure the pot is completely clean. If sediment is left in the pot, sugar crystals could form around it.
- Place the pot on the stove over medium low heat.[3] Using low heat means the sugar will take awhile to melt, but don't be tempted to turn it up; sugar will quickly burn when cooked over higher heat. Using low heat gives you better control.
- Stir continuously until the sugar is dissolved. Stirring at the beginning of the process helps break up lumps and make sure that the sugar is heated evenly. It's best to use a wooden spoon. Keep stirring until the sugar mixture turns clear and begins to boil. At this step, different candies can be made based on the final temperature of the sugar.
- Use a pastry brush to wash any sugar off the edge of the pan back down in with the rest of the sugar.
- If crystals form on the edge of the pan, they can seed crystal formation in the entire mixture and the sugar will seize. Brushing the sides of the pot very carefully with warm water can prevent this.
[Edit]Caramelizing Sugar - Cook for 8 to 10 more minutes without stirring. Once the sugar has melted and starts to boil, let it cook until it caramelizes.[4]
- Stirring at this point could cause crystal formation, so don't stir any more from this point on.
- The pan may be gently swirled to even the cooking process.
- The resulting caramel color should be a slight golden brown that forms at the edge of the pan.
- Check the temperature of the sugar with a candy thermometer.
- If you want the sugar to stay in its liquid form, it is ready when it reaches . At this point the color will be a rich golden brown.
- Removing a small spoonful of the mixture and placing it on a white plate will show the caramel's true color.
[Edit]Using Melted Sugar - Look for the appropriate doneness. Different temperatures are desirable for different applications. When your sugar reaches the desired temperature for your particular recipe, it is done. Use it immediately.
- Thread stage: A teaspoonful of sugar will form thin threads when dipped into and removed from cold water. It is good for candying fruits and nuts.[5]
- Soft-ball stage:[6] A teaspoonful of sugar will ball when dipped in cold water; the ball immediately flattens when removed from the water. It is good for making fudges and fondants.
- Firm-ball stage:[7] A teaspoonful of sugar will ball when dipped in cold water; the ball holds its shape when removed from the water but loses it when it reaches room temperature or pressed. It is good for making caramel candies.
- Hard-ball stage:[8] A teaspoonful of sugar will ball when dipped in cold water; the ball squish slightly when pressed or will be hard and sticky when removed from the water. It is good for making divinity or marshmallows.
- Soft-crack stage:[9] A teaspoonful of sugar will separate into pliable threads when dipped in cold water.
- Hard-crack stage:[10] A teaspoonful of sugar will separate into brittle threads when dipped in cold water.
- Caramel stage:[11] The sugar will brown in the pan and start to have a caramel smell.
- Make flan. This classic Mexican dessert is made by pouring the melted, caramelized sugar into a pan, then topping it with a creamy egg mixture and baking until set. The pan is turned over onto a plate so that the warm brown caramel tops the dessert.[12]
- Make caramel. To make a creamy caramel sauce, cream and butter are added to the sugar after it has melted.[13] This mixture is then used as a delicious topping for ice cream, chocolate cake and other decadent treats.
- Make spun sugar. Spun sugar is made by cooking melted sugar until it reaches the hard ball stage, meaning it will harden once it cools to room temperature. It can be used to make amazing designs to decorate all types of desserts.[14]
- Make caramel candy. This buttery, flavorful candy is made by adding cream and butter to the melted sugar, then cooking the mixture until it reaches the hard ball stage. At this point, the caramel is poured into molds and left to harden at room temperature.[15]
- If you do not have a pastry brush, you can put the lid on the pot. The steam created will help wash down any sugar that may have gotten up on the edge of the pot. Make sure you leave the lid tilted to the side to let out some of the steam and be careful to monitor the sugar carefully. This method is not as certain to work as using a brush, so it is still possible that your sugar will seize.
- Make sure all of your equipment is completely clean. Impurities on the pot can cause your sugar to seize because they can seed the growth of sugar crystals. Sugar seizing is when sugar crystals form and the sugar takes on a grainy texture. If your sugar seizes, the only thing to do is throw it out and start all over.
- While high humidity can soften sugar sculptures and spun sugars, which are made with melted sugar, the melting process itself is not affected by humidity levels.
- Candy thermometer read higher temperatures than kitchen thermometers, reading above
[Edit]Warnings - Melted sugar is very hot and very sticky. It is very easy to give yourself a bad burn.
- Stay alert at all times to prevent injury and to avoid burning the sugar.
- Avoid wearing loose clothing or jewelry. These may snag and cause injury.
- Tie long hair back, it can: obscure vision, distract from work, or snag.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Heavy-bottomed pot
- Burner/Stovetop
- Sugar
- Small brush
- Small cup of warm water
- Candy thermometer
- Cold water
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Use Sunscreen With Makeup Posted: 13 Jul 2022 01:00 AM PDT The best base for beautiful makeup is soft, youthful-looking skin. If you're constantly out in the sun, that skin is at risk for sun damage. Too much sun exposure can cause premature aging, wrinkles, sun spots, and even skin cancer. The good news is, however, that you can easily add some sunscreen to your makeup routine. It's absolutely imperative to protect your skin, and you can do it while still looking polished and beautiful! [Edit]Wearing Sunscreen Under Makeup - Choose a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or above. SPF stands for sun protection factor, and it measures the potency of sunscreens. For daily usage, an SPF of 15-30 is sufficient. If you know you'll be spending time outdoors in the bright sunshine, bump up your protection to an SPF of 30-50, depending on your skin tone.[1] It's important to remember that even if you aren't in direct sunlight or getting a sunburn, you are still receiving radiation from the sun. Don't wait until you have a blistering sunburn or premature wrinkles to start slathering up!
- There are sunscreens on the market that boast SPFs of up to and even over 100. However, SPFs above 50 offer minimal benefits.[2]
- Apply evenly to your entire face. Don't forget your ears and neck! Use a generous amount, about half of a teaspoon, and apply more if you don't feel fully covered. This is the most important product you'll use on your face, so don't skimp. Use a mirror to make sure you don't miss any spots.
- Experiment with different types of sunscreens from the drug store or even your local beauty supply store. While some may feel heavy and thick on your skin, there are also lightweight lotions and serums on the market that are perfect for makeup wearers.[3]
- Remember to apply sunscreen all over your body, especially to areas that will get direct sun exposure. All your skin needs sun protection.
- Pat the sunscreen until it's fully absorbed into your skin. It may feel like more product than you're used to applying to your face, but keep patting![4] By patting the sunscreen into your skin, rather than rubbing it, you will avoid irritating your skin. It will also ensure that your sunscreen is applied evenly over your face.[5] Give your sunscreen three to five minutes to soak in fully before beginning your makeup routine.[6]
- If you want to use a tinted SPF, layer it on top of a normal sunscreen. Cosmetic products with sun protection aren't as effective as products geared solely toward sun protection. Use a tinted SPF product as extra protection, rather than your sole protection.
- If you have oily skin, you might consider investing in a primer with SPF layered under a tinted moisturizer or liquid foundation that also has SPF. This will give you a longer-lasting protection than using straight sunscreen.
- Apply your makeup. Trade in your powder foundation for a liquid or cream foundation. This will blend most naturally with the texture of the sunscreen and prevent you from getting the dreaded "cakey" appearance.[7] You can use a liquid bronzer and blush for a full, sun-kissed look– without the sun damage! Apply your eye makeup as you normally would.
- If you have to find new makeup products that you work better with your sunscreen, make the sacrifice. It's a minor expense now, but you'll be rewarded with taut, young-looking, and cancer-free skin as you age.
- It's not recommended to mix your sunscreen with your makeup or moisturizer. It may save you some time, but there is always a risk that two products won't react well to each other. You can also dilute the sunscreen and reduce the amount of coverage you are getting.[8][9]
[Edit]Reapplying Sunscreen Over Makeup - Put sunscreen over your makeup only when you're re-applying it. For sunscreen to work most effectively, you need to apply it straight to your bare skin. However, it's not practical to take your makeup off to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours. Look into products such as setting sprays with SPF, SPF powders, or even spray-on sunscreen to go over your makeup when it comes time to reapply.
- This can be time-consuming and inconvenient, but it's the only way your sunscreen will be fully effective. Take the time to apply your sunscreen properly now and avoid yourself the hassle of covering wrinkles and sunspots later.
- Apply a physical sunblock over makeup. Most sunscreens on the market are chemical, which means that chemicals in their formula actually prevent sun from hitting the skin by absorbing the rays. Physical sunblock, however, works by creating a physical barrier between the skin and the sun.[10] Because the makeup won't allow your skin to absorb chemical sunscreen, it won't be effective protection. Physical sunscreen can still work over your makeup to deflect the sun's rays. Physical sunblocks come in powders, creams, and sprays, so choose whichever will be easiest for you to apply.[11]
- Use a spray sunscreen. Because your makeup is already applied, a spray sunblock will be your best bet to avoid ruining it. To apply it properly, close your eyes and hold your breath. Press down on the nozzle, and apply it by spraying back and forth over your entire face. Spray more than you think you need, because spray sunscreen don't cover quite as well as creams and lotions.[12]
- Don't touch your face at all while the spray dries. If you touch it, you risk rubbing it off in spots and compromising the sun protection.
- Another spray option is a makeup setting spray with SPF. Like the spray sunscreen, this shouldn't be used as your only form of sun protection, but it's great for touch-ups and to help keep your makeup in place throughout the day. Not only do makeup setting sprays with SPF protect your skin from the sun, they can actually mattify and moisturize your skin at the same time.[13]
- Consider powder sunscreen. This is another option that you can apply on top of makeup. Unlike sunscreen spray, however, you will need to touch your skin directly, which may or may not mess up your makeup. By dusting the powder over your entire face, you block the sun from reaching your skin. Additionally, the powder can even be applied to the hairline to ensure there are no gaps in protection.[14]
- You can find many tinted SPF powders, so you can use these throughout the day to add protection and even out your skin.
- Reapply generously and reapply often. Physical sunscreen rubs off more easily than chemical sunscreen. Because it physically protects your skin from the sun, your face needs to be totally covered for it to work. Cream and powder sunscreens should be reapplied over your makeup every two hours, while mists and sprays should be reapplied every single hour.[15]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Pack Pants Posted: 12 Jul 2022 05:00 PM PDT Are packing your suitcase for a trip, and want to keep your pants wrinkle-free for once? If you pack pants correctly, you can get away without ironing them. The trick is to fold them along the seams, so you won't end up with an unsightly crease. Rolling pants is also effective, especially for jeans and casual slacks. [Edit]Folding Pants - Decide which pants should be folded. Business pants and other pants made of fabrics that can be easily wrinkled should be folded instead of rolled, since folding cuts back on wrinkles. If you're traveling to a business meeting or another event that requires dress pants, you'll want to fold them to keep them from being completely lined with wrinkles when you reach your destination.
- Suit pants should always be folded, never rolled, since rolling them can cause them to pick up unsightly wrinkles.
- Pants made of 100 percent cotton wrinkle easily, and should also be folded.
- Start with ironed pants. If you pack wrinkly pants, they're just going to look worse after being packed in your luggage for several hours. If you iron your pants before packing them you're more likely to be able to wear them straight out of the suitcase when you arrive.
- Lay the pants on a flat surface. Do it on the floor or another hard surface to make sure your fold is neat. Lay them out flat and smooth out any crease or folds so that you can easily fold them neatly.
- Fold the pants in half so the legs overlap. Bring one leg over the other to fold them in half. Make sure the fold is right down the middle over the seam at the crotch of the pants. Straighten the legs to remove any creases at this time.
- If you're folding dress pants that have a crease or pleat down the middle, fold the pants in half along the crotch so that the crease is preserved.
- Fold them in half vertically. Bring the cuffs up to the waist. Again, straighten the pants so that no creases make it into the fold. Run your hands over the fabric to make sure the folds are nice and flat.
- Fold them in half once more. Bring the edges of the pants, the waist and the cuffs, down to meet the bottom of the fold. Your pants are now ready to pack. When you fold pants in half this way, you will end up with a crease across the knees, and other across the thighs. Strategically placing a crease there is better than having lots of wrinkles, but looking perfectly neat is of utmost importance, you might have to iron them.[1]
[Edit]Rolling Pants - Know which pants should be rolled. Fabrics that don't wrinkle easily can be rolled. It's a quick, easy way to pack pants that you don't mind getting a little more wrinkled. Rolling items will give you more storage space in your suitcase, since rolled items take up less room than folded items. Here are the types of pants you can roll:
- Jeans
- Leggings
- Workout pants
- Lay the pants on a flat surface. Start with ironed pants if you want to keep them as wrinkle-free as possible. Lay them out and smooth your hands over the legs to remove any creases.
- Fold the pants in half. Place one leg over the other leg to fold them perfectly in half. Smooth out the creases with your hands. Make sure there are no places where the fabric is rumpled.
- Start rolling from the waist. Use your fingers to start rolling the pants down from the waist, as you would roll up a jelly roll or sleeping bag. Keep rolling until you reach the cuffs. Your pants will end up in a neat roll that you can easily tuck into your suitcase.
- As you roll, make sure the fabric stays crease-free. Smooth out creases as you go.
- Roll loosely, rather than tightly, as tightly-rolled fabric will end up creasing.
[Edit]Packing Pants Effectively - Pack the dressiest pants in a suit bag. If you're concerned about damaging pants, or you need to show up to your destination and wear them without time to iron them, use a suit bag that will allow you to pack them vertically without folding them in half. This is the best way to keep your pants wrinkle-free.
- Affix the pants to a pants hanger that won't damage the fabric. Some pants hangers require folding the pants in half at the knee and draping them over the top of the hanger.
- Store them neatly in your suit bag, making sure they're completely straight so they'll remain wrinkle-free.
- Pack your rolled pants toward the bottom. If you end up with a few pairs of rolled pants, pack these casual items below items that need to stay wrinkle-free. Tuck them in toward the bottom of the suitcase since it doesn't matter as much if they get a little crushed.
- Pack your folded pants on top. This way they won't get crushed and wrinkled as you travel. Lay them over the top of the other items you've packed when your suitcase is mostly full. Don't pack shoes or other heavy items on top of your folded pants.[2]
- Place items in a dry cleaner bag to prevent wrinkling. This extra layer of protection will keep them from shifting in transit. It's a good way to keep freshly-ironed pants from picking up a lot of little creases while they're in the suitcase.
- Take your time while folding your pants. If you rush, you'll probably end up with more creases. Make sure you smooth out the fabric as you go.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Wash Tie Dyed Fabric Posted: 12 Jul 2022 09:00 AM PDT After you've successfully tie dyed any fabric or clothing, your creation needs to be rinsed and washed. Rinsing removes loose dye, and washing ensures that the colors are properly set and do not run or bleed. This process can be a bit messy and time consuming, but it'll be worth it when your colorful pieces are ready to be worn or displayed. [Edit]Rinsing Your Tie-Dyed Fabrics - Protect your work area from stains with newspaper or paper towels. Your work area should include a sink that can be washed and rinsed out with dish soap and water, usually either a kitchen or laundry-room sink. To prevent splattered dye from staining the surrounding countertop, lay down several layers of paper towels or newspapers.
- Wear rubber gloves to avoid staining your hands. Fabric dye leaves strong stains that could remain on your skin for several days. Prevent these stains by wearing thick rubber gloves that reach past your wrists. Check the gloves frequently for holes or tears, and replace them if necessary.[1]
- If you do get dye on your skin, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. Then, mix a small amount of baking soda with a bit of water to make a paste. Apply the paste to your skin and scrub to remove dye.[2]
- Remove your item from dye after 2-24 hours. Your fabric needs sufficient time in the dye for the colors to set. The longer you allow the material to remain in the dye, the easier it will be to remove excess dye while still leaving behind vibrant colors and patterns. If you can, leave the item in the dye overnight.
- Rinse your material under cold water to remove loose dye. Leaving your item securely tied or rubber-banded, run it under cold water. Allow the loose dye to rinse from the material until the water runs clear. This may only take a few minutes, but rinsing times vary. Be prepared to hold the fabric under cold water for 20-30 minutes.[3]
- Remove rubber bands or ties from your fabric. Now that you've rinsed out the first portion of the loose dye, it's time to remove the strings or rubber bands that formed your pattern. Use scissors to cut through these ties and gently unfold the material. Take a minute to enjoy seeing your fabric for the first time![4]
- Rinse your material under hot water to remove excess dye. Run your item under the warmer water until this, too, runs clear. Be sure the water isn't so hot that it burns your hands.Your rinse time will vary under the hot water as well. Generally expect to rinse for at least five minutes and up to about twenty.
- Set your fabric aside on a layer of plastic wrap. To prevent your fabric from staining your countertops while you prepare your washing machine, set out a layer of plastic wrap large enough to lay your material flat on top of it. For added protection, place the plastic wrap on top of the paper towels or newspapers.
[Edit]Washing and Drying Your Tie-Dyed Fabrics - Use a washing machine for best results. While you may prefer to hand wash very delicate tie-dyed fabrics such as silk or rayon, most materials do best in the washing machine. Using the machine provides the efficient and complete wash your fabric needs. Leaving loose dye in the material may cause bleeding in the colors and patterns.
- If you don't have a machine at home, ask a friend if you can use theirs. Be sure they understand that you're washing tie-dyed material and may need to run the machine several times. You can also visit a laundromat. Check with the company to ensure they'll allow you to wash tie-dyed fabrics.
- Turn your washing machine to its normal cold-water cycle. Just as with hand-rinsing, tie-dyed fabrics should be washed first in cold water. This allows the loose dye to slowly rinse out, preventing the fabric from losing too much color at once. Most fabrics can be washed for the full length of a normal cycle. Check any tags to ensure you're following the proper instructions for your particular item.
- For rayon or other delicate fabrics, use a mesh laundry bag on the delicates cycle. This will protect those fabrics from damage. Use a mesh bag you don't mind replacing, as it may become stained with dye.
- Choose synthrapol detergent for top-loading machines. Synthrapol is a special detergent that's particularly good at rinsing excess dyes from fabrics. It's a highly concentrated substance that will create a sudsy wash, so it should only be used in top-loading washing machines. Add 1-2 tbsp. (14.79-29.57 mL) to the machine. For heavily dyed items that you're hoping to wash more thoroughly, add up to a ¼ cup (118 mL).
- Choose regular detergent for front-loading machines. To prevent front-loading machines from leaking suds, stick with regular laundry detergent. Use the normally recommended amount of detergent to wash your items. Be aware that you may need to repeat the washing process a few extra times when using regular detergent.
- Load no more than four items in the machine. Avoid overfilling the machine. While it's safe to wash tie-dyed fabrics together, they need enough space in the washer to get fully washed and rinsed. You also don't want the water to get too "muddy."[5]
- If you're worried about your items bleeding together in the machine, you can wash them entirely separately.
- Run machine on warm- or hot-water cycles for subsequent washings. It's a good idea to wash your tie-dyed fabric separately from your other laundry for a few more cycles. Most items will need at least one or two more washings before the loose dye is completely washed out. Continue to use either synthrapol or normal laundry detergent, depending on your type of washing machine.
- Check on the water during the rinse cycle for loose dye. During these final washings, look to see if your fabric is rinsing clean. Open the washing machine (or, if you have a glass door, peek inside) during the rinse cycle to examine the water. If it looks clear instead of muddy with dye, your item is done washing. Your fabric may need to be washed in warmer water a few times before it rinses clear.
- Dry fabrics by following the instructions for the material type. Different materials require different drying methods. Cotton, for example, may shrink a bit the first time it goes through a full dryer cycle. Other, more delicate fabrics may need only a tumble-dry. Check the tag to ensure you're drying your material correctly.[6]
- If you're worried about damage or shrinkage, allow your items to air dry.
- Wash and dry your tie-dyed fabric with the rest of your laundry. After you've rinsed, washed, and dried your tie dye, it's ready to wear. When it's time to clean the fabric again, you can add the items to your typical laundry load. Wash and dry them normally. Use your usual laundry detergent and dryer sheets, following the instructions for the specific material type.
- If you're worried about the bright colors fading, put your tie-dyed fabric in cold-water cycles with any other brightly colored clothing you need to wash. Use a color-safe detergent. This will extend the life of the colors.
[Edit]Warnings - Be prepared for your tie-dyed materials to fade over time. Just like any other fabric, repeated washings will eventually cause the colors to become less vibrant. Use color-safe laundry detergent to slow down this process.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Paper towels or newspapers
- Rubber gloves
- Plastic wrap
- Sink
- Washing machine
- Disposable gloves
- Synthrapol detergent
- Regular laundry detergent
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| How to Cook Basmati Brown Rice Posted: 12 Jul 2022 01:00 AM PDT Brown basmati rice is very long-grained and aromatic variety with a nutty flavor that originated in India, and is still grown and used there extensively. As one of the family of brown rice, it's very healthy and can be served with a variety of dishes. A number of ingredients can be added to it as well. Here you'll learn about preparing this unique rice and the primary ways of cooking it – through boiling, steaming and pressure cooking. [Edit]Ingredients Brown Basmati Rice
Servings: 6 cups
- brown basmati rice
- water
- salt
[Edit]Rinsing and Soaking Brown Basmati Rice - Add the rice to cold water to rinse it. Measure brown basmati rice, and pour it into a medium-sized bowl of cold tap water.[1]
- Rinse the rice. Use your hand to swish the rice around until the water becomes cloudy-looking and foam appears on the edges.[2]
- While rinsing it can wash away some of the rice's nutrients, brown basmati rice is typically imported and may be processed with talc, powdered glucose and rice powder. Rice connoisseurs, therefore, recommend rinsing it.
- Doing so will also get rid of some of the starch, which will help make your rice less gluey.[3]
- Strain the water from the rice. Pour out the water through a mesh strainer or by tilting the bowl to the side. You can hold a plate over the bowl to keep the rice from spilling out as you drain the water.[4]
- Rinse the rice again. Add more cool tap water and repeat this process until the water is clear. This could require up to 10 rounds of washing the rice.[5]
- Once the water is clear, leave the rice in the bowl and set it aside.
- Combine the rinsed rice and cold water to soak. Add cold water to the drained and rinsed rice and let it soak between 30 minutes to 24 hours depending upon the method of cooking and how long you want to cook it. The longer you allow it to soak, the less time it will take to cook.
- Additionally, basmati rice is known for its rich flavor, which can be lost during the heating process. Soaking it reduces cooking time, thus preserving more of its flavor.[6]
- Soaking rice also improves its texture, making it softer and lighter.[7]
- Drain the water from the rice. Use a mesh strainer to drain the water that has not been absorbed by the rice.
- You can also use a colander, but the holes must be very small so the rice doesn't escape when you strain it.
[Edit]Boiling Brown Basmati Rice - Prepare the water. Add water to a medium-sized cooking pot with a lid on the stovetop.
- In order for the rice to cook properly, make sure you the lid has a tight seal so heat and steam aren't released.[8]
- Always make sure your pot isn't too small because rice will triple in volume once cooked.[9]
- Next add about salt to the water. As with pasta, salt is used to bring out the natural flavor in rice so it won't taste bland. It's not used to make it taste salty.[10]
- Mix the rice and water. Pour rinsed and pre-soaked brown basmati rice to the pot and use a spoon to mix the rice with the water.[11]
- This is the only time you'll stir the rice until it's done. Stirring it while it's cooking activates the starch and makes it either sticky or creamy.[12][13]
- Bring it to a boil and then simmer. Turn the burner to high. Once the water comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 15-40 minutes until all the water is absorbed.[14][15]
- The time difference is largely based upon how long you soaked the rice.
- If you soaked it for 30 minutes, your cook time will be closer to 40 minutes. If you soaked it overnight, your cook time will be closer to 15 minutes.
- It's very important to turn down the heat and to simmer once the water boils. Rice that's cooked too fast on a high heat will be hard because the water will evaporate. The kernels will also break.[16]
- Test to see if it's done. Quickly remove the lid and use a fork to scoop out some of the rice. Immediately replace the lid. If the rice is tender and the water has fully absorbed, it's ready. If not, continue cooking another 2-4 minutes.
- You may need to add more water if it's not tender but the water has fully absorbed. Start slowly by adding just a of water.
- Remove the pot from the burner and cover with a towel. When done, take the pot from the burner and remove the lid. Place a folded kitchen towel over the pot, and promptly replace the lid.[17]
- The towel will help to steam the rice, making it fluffier. It also absorbs extra moisture that would otherwise fall back onto the rice.[18]
- Let the rice sit for 10 minutes. Don't lift the lid while you let the rice rest or you'll lose the steam necessary to fully cook it.[19][20]
- Remove the towel and lid and fluff the rice. Use a fork to fluff the rice while it's in the pot. Then let the rice sit uncovered for just a few minutes so it doesn't have a wet texture.[21][22]
- Using a fork helps the remaining steam to escape and the grains to separate.
- Scoop and serve. Use a large spoon or a nonstick rice paddle spoon to scoop out the rice. Serve it now alone or as part of another dish.
[Edit]Cooking Brown Basmati Rice in a Rice Cooker - Read the instructions carefully. There are a variety of rice cookers on the market, and they don't all operate in the same way or have the same features.
- For instance, some will have both white and brown rice settings. Others won't have either.
- Combine the water and rice. Use a wooden spoon or rice paddle spoon to mix brown basmati rice and of water into the inner pot of the rice cooker.
- Many rice cookers come with a dry measuring cup. However, they're often only equivalent to 3/4 of a standard cup.
- Don't use metal utensils when mixing or scooping because they can damage the non-stick coating of the inner pots.
- Put on the lid and turn it to cook. Generally rice cookers have two settings – cook and warm – so make sure you select cook. This will bring the water to a boil very quickly.
- Once the rice has absorbed all the water, the temperature will rise past the boiling point of water (100˚C/212˚F). At this point, most rice cookers will then automatically switch to the warm setting.
- This will typically take about 30 minutes.
- The warm setting will hold the rice at a safe serving temperature until you turn off the cooker.
- Don't take off the lid during cooking. As with the boiling method, don't lift the lid while the rice is cooking or the water vapor needed to cook it will disperse.[23]
- Let the rice rest in the cooker. After it switches to warm, keep the lid closed and let the rice sit for 5-10 minutes to finish cooking.[24]
- Open the cooker and fluff the rice. Carefully open the lid away from your face to avoid being burned by any excess steam. Use a wooden or rice paddle spoon to gently fluff the rice. [25]
- Dish it out. You can serve it now or save it for later in the refrigerator or freezer.
- If refrigerating, put the rice into a bowl and cover with a lid or saran wrap. It should keep for 3-4 days. Don't leave it out for more than two hours before refrigerating.
- If freezing, rinse it in cool water, place portions in zip lock bags and place them in the freezer. Thaw the rice in the baggies overnight in the refrigerator.[26]
[Edit]Pressure Cooking Brown Basmati Rice - Combine the water, rice and salt. Mix brown basmati rice, of water and salt in the pressure cooker and turn the burner to medium-high or high heat to reach high pressure.[27][28]
- Secure the lid. Begin timing when the pressure cooker reaches high pressure.[29][30]
- Various models will have different types of valves to alert you when the pressure cooker is at high pressure.
- Those with spring valves generally have a bar or rod that rises; jiggler valves will rock and jiggle slowly at first and then rapidly; weight-modified valves will whistle and hiss as they lift up and down.[31]
- Decrease the heat and continue cooking. Reduce the burner's temperature until the pressure cooker has stabilized and let the rice keep cooking.[32] The total time from reaching high pressure until you're done should be between 12-15 minutes.
- Again, the time depends upon the amount of time you pre-soaked the rice.[33][34]
- Turn off the heat. Allow the temperature and pressure to drop naturally for about 10-15 minutes after turning off the heat. The safety-locking mechanism will disengage or an indicator will alert you that the pressure has dropped.[35][36]
- Alternatively, put on oven mitts and place the pressure cooker in the sink. Run cold water over it to decrease the pressure. Then remove the valve and push the button/twist/press the lever to release water vapor and any remaining pressure.[37][38]
- Either way, be careful while doing this and know from where the vapor will shoot out so you aren't burned.[39][40]
- Fluff the rice and serve. Use a fork to fluff the rice and serve now, or refrigerate or freeze for later use.
[Edit]Things You'll Need Brown Basmati Rice: - Medium-sized mixing bowl
- Medium-sized pot with a tight-sealing lid
- Dry and liquid measuring cups and spoons
- Large spoon
- Fork
- Kitchen towel
- Stovetop steamer
- Stovetop pressure cooker
- Oven mitts
- Nonstick rice paddle spoon (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Express Your Feelings to the One You Love Posted: 11 Jul 2022 05:00 PM PDT When you're in a relationship with someone who has truly captured your heart, you might be bursting at the seams with wanting to tell them how you feel. If you have a crush on someone, it may be a little bit more complicated than that. Communicating your feelings for someone can be tricky at first, but there are many other ways of expressing yourself other than blurting out, "I love you." A blimp with giant hearts flying across the sky might be the flashy way to get your message across, but simpler ways of communication exist that might hold a bit more meaningful in expressing your heartfelt emotions. [Edit]Telling Someone You're In a Relationship With - Say "I love you." Telling someone you love them is the most sure-fire way to communicate your feelings, and the strength of those feelings. However, there are other ways to say, "I love you," simply by switching up the language you use. For example, instead of saying the three words, "I love you," you could say other meaningful things like, "I'm really happy you're in my life," or "I feel lucky that I have you," or "I love you for being you.[1]
- These different expressions offer some variety by giving specifics as to why you love your partner, and give a breath of fresh air in expressing those three little words.
- Tell them how important they are. Sharing your feelings to your partner about the positive impact they have on your life is a clear way of showing the love and value you have for your partner. For instance, if your partner makes spending time with your family easier, let them know that they make that interaction easier for you. If you have a bad day at work, and the moment you see your partner you instantly feel a wave of relief, let them know that just seeing them immediately puts you in a better mood.
- If your loved one makes your life better or easier, communicating their influence on making your life richer, lets them know they are wanted, valued, and loved.
- Allow yourself to be vulnerable. Being vulnerable means expressing your thoughts and feelings wholeheartedly, without reserve. With that expression, comes the possibility of being criticized, hurt, rejected, etc. by your loved one. The important thing to remember is if you love someone, you opening up and wholeheartedly sharing yourself, expresses to your partner that them knowing the real you is worth the risk of you getting hurt. It is you making a self-sacrifice of security, for a deeper connection with them.
- Since sacrificing anything is not easy, being vulnerable with the one you love shows your commitment to the relationship.
- Ask for advice from your partner. Wanting advice from your partner communicates that you respect their opinion. It means you look to them for a sort of guidance, and it strengthens their understanding of their role in your life.[2]which is a step in making your relationship stronger.
- It doesn't have to be something serious, although it can be. Just letting your partner know that you are interested in their opinion, and want to know how they would approach something allows them to see the respect you have for them.
- Vent your feelings to each other. If your partner is obviously nervous, upset, worried, or concerned about something, ask them to vent and share their feelings to you. Let your partner know that you want them to be able to let their guard down and spill what is on their mind. Sometimes, people just need have a rant about what is bothering them. Let your partner know that you are there to listen to what they have to say.
- It shows your loved one that they can just let loose about how they are feeling, and you are there to be their outlet and listener.
- While they're expressing their feelings to you, make sure you are completely there and in the moment. This means refraining from looking at your phone or any other kind of distraction and being focused on what your partner is saying. Be attentive to how they're feeling when telling you what is bothering them, and give thoughtful feedback.
- If you find yourself at a loss for words, a strong and meaningful hug can always show you're there for your loved one.[3]
- Tell each other your secrets. Sharing your secrets is a small way of telling someone you love that they have your trust. People don't share their secrets with just anyone, so trusting someone with your intimate feelings and thoughts is a true sign of a caring, loving relationship.
- Sharing secrets creates an inner circle of just you two, reinforcing a greater bond between you and your partner.
- Always be honest. Being honest with the one you love could sometimes difficult, especially if you are trying to not hurt their feelings. However, speaking the truth, even when it hurts, increases your ability to level and find connection with your partner.[4] It shows that you rather be truthful and real, rather than phony and comforting.
- It's a sign of respect to your partner that you are honest with how you feel, while taking into consideration that it might not be the most comfortable option.
- Just remember to be gentle with truth. The truth may be hard to hear, but it doesn't have to come off mean.
- Encourage your partner. As your partner's partner, it's safe to say that it's your responsibility — as well as in the best interest of the relationship — to show your love, encourage, and help your partner achieve their dreams and goals in life. By providing a supportive environment, you stimulate your partner to be the best version of themselves and go after what they want.
- You can encourage your partner by saying things like, "I believe that you can do this," "You're a hard worker, and that hard work is going to get recognized," or "All of your efforts are going to pay off soon."
- Supporting your partner, and pushing for their success shows your love in words of reinforcement.
- Write a letter. Sometimes writing an old school love letter is a romantic way to show your feelings. Writing a letter can also help articulate feelings and emotions you've been having, by letting your stream of consciousness do the "talking". Think about what you want to accomplish with this letter. What do you want your loved one to know? Begin with saying why you're writing them a letter. For example, you can say something like, "I was thinking about you, and how much I enjoy being around you…" or "Being around you is always so much fun, and I wanted to let you know…"
- Mention stories and memories that bring back good feelings. Just remember to write what you love about them, how they make you feel, and why you're happy to be with them.
- Writing a letter by hand is your best bet to show that what you have to say is meaningful, because it takes more effort that typing up a note or text message. Also, your personal handwriting shows through which gives a nice touch of genuineness.
- Listen. Often, not enough credit is given for being able to focus, and really listen to someone when they speak, and then give an attentive, meaningful reply.[5] When you really listen to someone, you are focused on only that person, giving them your full and undivided attention.
- Although it's a simple act, listening is a very powerful act of caring that shows you are there to help your partner through whatever they are dealing with.
- Listening to your partner reinforces the idea that you two are a team together, and you are there when your partner needs help.
- Carry out acts of service. Anything you can do to ease the burden of responsibilities weighing down on your loved one will speak volumes as to how much you care for them and love them.
- Doing things like running out to get breakfast before they wake up, filling up the gas in their car, or washing their dishes in the sink, are all small ways to show your loved one you are always thinking about them.
- Be considerate. Being considerate means thinking about the feelings of your partner in everything that you do. Decisions you make about certain things should be made with your partner in mind.
- For example, if you're going camping, bring extra sleeping mats for your partner, because you know they have a difficult time sleeping on hard surfaces. Or, if you're going on a picnic, pack some extras of your partner's favorite snack as a surprise.
- Set aside time for quality interaction. Everyone has busy lives that we sometimes get wrapped up in, but making an effort to share quality time with your loved one is an easy way to reconnect and show your loved one where your priorities stand. Use this time to share with each other, go on a walk, or make dinner together.
- It's really not about the amount of time you share together, but the quality of that time. It doesn't have to have a strict schedule, but the fact that you made the effort at all is what really counts.[6]
- Embrace your inner child. As adults, life can get monotonous and boring at times. To combat this, keep your inner child alive. Incorporate surprises into your life, be spontaneous and try new things.
- This might not seem like a direct display of love, but by keeping things fun in your relationship, it shows that you are working to always have an enjoyable time with your loved one. Go on an adventure together that will create memories and stories for times to come.
- Touch your partner affectionately. Everyone is different with the level of "touchy-ness" that they prefer, but small, affectionate touches can communicate your love in a subtler, physical way. Things like holding hands, playful touches on the arm, or putting your head on their shoulder, are small ways to express your feelings of closeness and love.
- Give hugs. Hugs give people a physical sense of security, and can literally make someone feel like they are wrapped in love. Hugs are easy to execute, and are appropriate to do in public, which makes them ideal for telling your partner you love them out in the world.
- Hugs using both arms and facing your loved one are the most romantic. Other kinds of hugs (one armed hugs, side hugs), are more casual and don't hold that much meaning.
- A good, meaningful hug usually last a little longer. 5-7 seconds is usually a good amount of time to express your feelings in a hug.
- Cuddle with your partner. It's no secret that cuddling with your loved one feels good, and just like hugging, this brief break from the stress of your everyday life will communicate your love by taking time to focus solely on your partner, and what you feel for them.
- Give your partner a massage. Giving your partner a massage could be something as simple as rubbing your partner's back while you two watch a movie, running your fingers through their hair, or having your partner lay back, and place their head in your lap as your massage their shoulders and neck.
- Don't be afraid to show your love with touch. Touching is just another way people can sense love.
[Edit]Expressing Your Feelings To a Crush - Building up confidence. Just be yourself when you want to interact with your crush. You don't want to build your relationship off of lies and pretending to be someone you're not, so let your personality shine through. Sometimes, when you stuck about things to talk about, ask your crush about themselves or give them a compliment. You can say something like, "What sports do you like to play?" or "You did really good on your presentation today."
- The easiest subjects to talk about with your crush are things you have in common, like classes, places you've traveled, or favorite restaurants. Talking about things you have in common will lighten the mood and help you relax.
- Let your body language speak for itself. Touching anybody is a sign of closeness. So, a subtle way to express to your crush that you like them is to break the touch barrier. Light touches are the best way to go to get your message across without coming off too strong.
- For example, if you're talking with your crush or passing by them, you can give them a light touch on the upper arm. If you're sitting next to your crush, you can casually let your feet or knees touch every once and smile to show your feelings.
- Just a little bit physical attention will let your crush know that you like them. Touching you crush lightly just once or twice during a conversation is sufficient enough to let your crush know how you're feeling.
- Write a letter. It can sometimes be hard to verbalize your feelings to someone you like, so writing a love letter is an easy way to express how you feel without having to do it in person. Just like in the previous method, begin your letter by stating your inspiration for writing the letter.
- For instance, you can begin with, "I've really enjoyed getting to know you better over these past couple of months..." or "I just wanted to let you know that over this past year, you have become one of my best friends..."
- In our day and age of technology, typing out a text message or Facebook message is easy. Writing a letter by hand is more sincere and requires a bit more effort. Because of the added effort, your gesture is that much more appealing to your crush.
- Keep it light. You letter can start off casual, and you can write about a few inside jokes that the two of you have together or fun times that you've experienced together. From there, you can dive right in, and explain the reason for the letter, telling your crush you have feelings for them. You can say something like, "I just wanted to tell you that I like you, and I really like hanging out with you."
- Keep it short and sweet. You don't want to go too much into how much you like your crush or why, before you have your answer as to how they feel about you.
- Tell your crush your feelings in person. Pick a place that's stress-free where it would be appropriate to talk alone, make eye contact, and simply tell your crush how you feel. You can make some small talk, but after a while jump right in and tell them how you feel. You can give a compliment or two while your telling your crush how you feel. For example, "I really like you. Nobody makes me laugh like you do."
- After you tell your crush how you feel, give them time to react and process what you've said. Don't immediate ask them how they feel or what they think.
- You don't want to come off too intense. Give your crush some time to react and respond, and try not to put the pressure on them.
- Respond appropriately. Once you say how you feel, your crush will either say that they share your feelings, or want to just stay friends. If your crush shares your feelings don't be afraid to your excitement. It's okay to be silly and giddy after you and your crush tell each other how you feel. If your crush just wants to be friends, be mature and say something like, "Okay, I just wanted to let you know." It will hurt, but you always want to leave a good impression. Although you will be upset, try to act like it wasn't a big deal, and wait until you have some privacy to be sad about it.
- Once you know your crush likes you back, you can ask your crush on a casual date by offering to go see a movie together, or catch a baseball game. This will offer up some time for the both of you to get to know each other better.
- If your crush doesn't share your feelings, at least you had the confidence to take a chance. There are plenty of other opportunities to find someone right for you.
[Edit]Help Expressing Your Feelings - Own your feelings. Falling in love is perfectly natural, as is wanting to show someone how you feel.
- Don't over-say it. If you're telling someone that you love him or her 15 times a day, it starts to lose its meaning. Cut out a few of those verbal expressions, and mix it up with some non-verbal cues instead.
- Don't lose yourself in the process of loving that person. Keep doing the things you love to do, and the things that make you original and unique.
- Try not to be offended if your crush doesn't share your feelings. Accept it graciously, move on, and continue to be a good friend. You never know if they'll start to feel the same way about you later on.
- Don't feel shy in front of your crush or she will think that you're a coward.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Remove a Jar Label Posted: 11 Jul 2022 09:00 AM PDT Many people like to reuse glass jars for storage and craft projects. Unfortunately, many of these jars come with stubborn, pesky labels that are difficult to remove. They often leave behind bits of paper and glue residue that no amount of water and scrubbing can remove. Fortunately, removing jar labels is simple, but there's a trick to removing the residue as well! [Edit]Using White Vinegar - Fill a sink or bucket with hot water. The water needs to be deep enough to completely submerge your jar. If you are remove the label from more than one jar, the water needs to be deep enough to cover the largest jar. The hotter the water, the better it will dissolve the glue under the label.[1]
- Add a few squirts of dish soap. If you can't find any dish soap, you can also use ordinary hand soap. This will help loosen the label and make it easier to remove.
- Add in a few cups of white vinegar. White vinegar is somewhat acidic, which will help dissolve the glue holding the label to the jar. It will make removing the label and residue easier.[2]
- Place the jars inside the sink. Take the lids off the jars, and lay them down on their sides so that they fill with water and sink to the bottom.
- Wait several minutes. The longer you wait, the more time the vinegar will have to dissolve the glue under the label. About 30 minutes should be plenty for stubborn labels, but you can check your jars after 10 minutes.
- Take the jar out of the water and peel the label off. It should slide off easily. If you get any residue, try to scrape it off using a scrubby sponge.
- Rinse the jar using clean water and pat it dry. Once the label is off, rinse the jar off, and dry it using a clean towel. Your jar is now ready to use!
[Edit]Using Nail Polish Remover - Remove as much of the label as possible first. If the label is too difficult to peel off, soak the jar in warm, soapy water for 10 minutes, then peel the label off. You will have some residue, but that is fine.[3]
- Avoid using nail polish remover or acetone if your jar is made from plastic. They may distort or discolor the jar. Rubbing alcohol may be safely substituted but it may not be very effective.
- Pour some nail polish remover onto a paper towel, cloth, or scrubby sponge.[4] If the residue is only minimal, you can use a paper towel. If there is a lot of residue, stick with a scrubby sponge. Acetone will also work for this method. Rubbing alcohol may work, but it will not be as effective as nail polish remover or acetone; it is best reserved for light residue.
- Scrub the residue with it using small, circular motions. The chemicals in the nail polish remover or acetone will dissolve any glue and make it easier to scrub off. You may have to reapply the nail polish remover or acetone.
- Wash the jar using warm, soapy water. This is especially necessary if you plan on using your jar for food storage. Once the jar is clean, pat it dry with a clean towel and use it for your project.
[Edit]Using Oil and Baking Soda - Peel off as much of the label as you can. If the label is stuck firmly to the jar, soak the jar in warm, soapy water for a few minutes, then peel the label off. You will likely have lots of paper and/or glue residue left over, which is fine.[5]
- Mix equal parts of baking soda and oil. You can use any cooking oil, such as canola oil, olive oil, or vegetable oil.[6] Baby oil will also work in a pinch.
- For a small-sized jar, you will need about 1 tablespoon of each.[7]
- Plain olive oil may work for light, glue reside.[8] You will need the abrasive baking soda if there is paper, however.
- Rub the paste over the jar. Focus on the areas that have the most residue. You can rub it on using your fingers, a paper towel, or even a cloth.
- Wait 10 to 30 minutes.[9][10] During this time, the oil will penetrate any glue residue and dissolve it. It will make it easier to remove later on.
- Rub the paste off using a scrubby sponge or some steel wool.[11] Rub the paste using small, circular motions. This will allow the baking soda to scrub off any glue or paper residue.
- Wash the jar using soap and water, then pat it dry with a towel. If you see any residue, you can wipe it off using a paper towel and a few drops of oil.
[Edit]Using a Hairdryer - Turn the hairdryer to high heat. Keep in mind that some people have had mixed results with this method. It only works if your hairdryer can get very hot and if the label is not that stubborn to remove.[12]
- Hold the hairdryer over the label for 45 seconds. The heat of the hairdryer will make the glue dry out and turn brittle. This will make the label easier to peel off.
- Try to peel off a corner of the label. If needed, use your fingernail or a razor blade to help peel the label off. If it doesn't peel off easily, heat the label for another 45 seconds, then try it again.[13]
- Use olive oil to remove any residue, then wash it using warm, soapy water. Put a few drops of olive oil into a paper towel, and gently rub any residue spots away.[14] Wash the jar using warm, soapy water to get rid of the oil, then pat it dry with a clean towel.
[Edit]Using Washing Soda - Fill a sink with hot water. Make sure that the water is deep enough to completely submerge your jar on its side. If you are removing the label from multiple jars, make sure that the water is deep enough to completely submerge the largest jar.
- Add ½ cup (90 grams) of washing soda to the water. Swish the water with your hand to help it dissolve.[15]
- Open the jar, put it into the water, and wait about 30 minutes. Let water get inside the jar so that it weighs it down.[16] You don't have to wait exactly 30 minutes, but you have to wait long enough for the water to soak the label and dissolve the glue.
- Take the jar out and peel the label off. The label should slide off easily. If you see any residue, try to rub it off with your finger first. If it doesn't come off easily, move on to the next step.
- Use more washing soda to scrub off stubborn spots. If there is any residue, put some washing soda onto a scrubby sponge, and gently buff the residue.
- Rinse the jar off using clean water, then pat it dry. Your jar will be clean, but there might be some washing soda residue on it. Once you have the label off, rinse the jar using clean water, and then pat it dry with a towel.
- If using extremely hot water near boiling, make sure to heat the jar a bit first to help prevent it from shattering due to a sudden temperature change.
- Save time and effort by first scoring the label with a utility knife, razor blade or sharp paring knife. Apply "Goo Gone" or a similar product liberally and let set 20 minutes or so, then remove with a paper towel. You can then wash the bottle or jar with warm soapy water.
- If you can't find a scrubby sponge, you can use a soft-bristled brush instead.
- For extra stubborn labels, you may have to combine several methods.
- Does your jar have a date stamp? Wipe it off using nail polish remover or acetone!
- Just discovered this accidentally. Pour boiling water into the jar, wait a few minutes, dump out the water and peel off the label. Works on the cover too.
- Be careful when soaking plastic jars, as the plastic could melt.
- Once you get your jar clean, you can use it for almost anything—you can drink out of it, for instance, or you could use it to store things like cosmetics, cotton pads, or office supplies.[17]
[Edit]Warnings - Be careful when using the hairdryer method. The jar will heat up.
- Avoid using the hairdryer method on plastic jars; the heat may distort the plastic.
- Avoid using nail polish remover/acetone on plastic jars.
- Metal scrubbers can leave fine scratches on glass, which can cause glass to break under stress. Especially if you are using the jars for home canning, use a gentler abrasive such as baking soda or a nylon scrubber instead.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using White Vinegar - Sink or bucket
- White Vinegar
- Dish soap
- Water
- Scrubby sponge (if needed)
[Edit]Using Nail Polish Remover - Nail polish remover or acetone
- Paper towel, wash cloth, or scrubby sponge
[Edit]Using Oil and Baking Soda - Oil (canola, olive, vegetable, etc)
- Baking soda
- Scrubby sponge
[Edit]Using a Hairdryer - Hairdryer
- Olive oil (if needed)
- Paper towel
[Edit]Using Washing Soda - Sink or bucket
- Washing soda
- Water
- Scrubby sponge (if needed)
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Paint on Cardboard Posted: 11 Jul 2022 01:00 AM PDT Cardboard is a great material to paint on since it's so sturdy and affordable. Whether you want to paint the entire cardboard piece or create cardboard art, you should first prime the surface to get the best colour possible. Then, to keep the cardboard from warping, apply multiple thin coats, and dry the coats as well as possible. In no time, you'll have a beautiful piece of painted cardboard! [Edit]Painting with Acrylics - Prime the cardboard with gesso for bold, bright colors. Before painting your cardboard, use a flat brush to paint a thin layer of gesso onto the cardboard in long, vertical strokes. Cardboard absorbs paint and dulls the colors, so gesso will give the paint something to bind to, and enhance the colors of your painting.
- Most Gessoes are white, however, if you want a particular colour, mix a few drops of acrylic paint into the gesso to change the colour.
- Let the gesso dry for 24 hours, then apply a second coat for best results. Paint in the opposite direction to your first coat to help create a smooth and even base to paint on.
- Leave the gesso to dry for another 24 hours.
- If you can still see the cardboard under the gesso, wait another 24 hours and apply a third coat.
- Sand the surface of the cardboards with 500-grit sandpaper if it's too rough. If you think that the rough surface caused by the gesso will distract from your painting, smooth it out with a light sand. Use smooth back and forth strokes to sand until all the bumps and protruding lines have been worn down. [1]
- Try not to push down too hard, otherwise, you risk damaging the surface of the cardboard.
- Paint the cardboard with a dry brush or sponge to avoid warping. Cardboard normally curls or warps because of exposure to moisture. Don't dip the brush or sponge into water before you start painting. Instead, use a dry brush. If the brush feels stiff, use your fingers bend the bristles back and forth.[2]
- Watercolours don't tend to work well on cardboard because they require water. Choose acrylic or oil paints instead.
- Apply the paint directly to the brush or sponge to stop the cardboard from curling. Instead of squeezing paint straight onto the cardboard, dip the brush into the paint or squeeze a few drops onto the sponge. This gives you the ability to remove any excess paint from the brush before you start and will prevent patches of paint from sinking into the cardboard.[3]
- Apply very thin coats of paint to avoid warping. The less moisture that the cardboard is exposed to at a time, the less it will warp. Apply a very thin coat of paint and let it completely dry before applying another coat. This will give time for some of the moisture to evaporate rather soaking into the cardboard.[4]
- Let your paint dry for 2 hours, then apply a second coat. The first few coats may be partially see-through, but it's better to have to apply multiple coats than to warp your cardboard! The more coats you paint, the more even and solid the paint will look. Continue painting until you're satisfied with the coloring.
[Edit]Spray-Painting onto Cardboard - Choose a well-ventilated and sheltered area to spray paint. Always make sure there is plenty of airflow when you use spray paints as the fumes can be toxic. Spray paint cans work best in warm, dry and sheltered conditions. If it is cold, windy, or damp outside, work inside a garage that has good ventilation or wait until a finer day.[5]
- Purchase spray paints from a hardware store or an art supplies store.
- Place an old sheet under the cardboard to protect the ground. Spray paint is very difficult to removes so protect your work area before you get started.[6]
- If you don't have an old sheet, use a tarpaulin or sheets of newspaper instead.
- Shake the paint can for at least 45-60 seconds before getting started. The pigments in the spray paint will separate over time, and shaking will recombine these pigments. This will help the colour in the paint have an even gradient when it is applied to the cardboard.[7]
- Give the can a 10 second shake every hour to help the paint flow easily from the nozzle.
- Hold the can away from the cardboard and lightly spray the paint. If you put the can too close to the cardboard, your paint may pool and warp the cardboard. Instead, hold the can so that it's parallel to the cardboard, and move it across the cardboard in your desired pattern.[8]
- Try making zig-zags, polka dots, and swirls. Be creative!
- Don't spray a section of cardboard more than twice as this can oversaturate the cardboard and make it warp.
- Wait 2 hours, then apply a second coat of paint. Make sure the cardboard is dry before you apply a second coat so it doesn't warp.[9]
- Consider using a different colour to create contrast in your painting.
- If you want to do a third or fourth coat of paint, let the painting dry for 2 hours before applying each additional coat.
[Edit]Creating Cardboard Art - Paint a landscape scene onto the cardboard if you enjoy creating realistic paintings. Landscapes are really fun to paint because there are so many different colour options. Consider whether you want to paint a sunset, a sunny day, or a stormy day. Draw your picture onto the cardboard and then paint over it with acrylic or oil paints.[10]
- If you need inspiration, find a landscape photo you like and try to recreate it.
- Include interesting animals, people, or plants in your picture to make it unique. Let your imagination run wild!
- Decorate the cardboard with fingerprints if you have young kids. Finger painting is a fun and tactile way to paint cardboard that will keep children occupied for hours. Fill small containers with different coloured paints and allow your child to dip their fingers into the paint and then press them onto the cardboard.[11]
- Make sure that the workspace is protected by plenty of newspaper as finger painting can be messy.
- Create a seascape scene on the cardboard if you enjoy painting with marine colours. Seascapes are a beautiful and timeless scene to paint. Choose colours that reflect the mood you want to create, for example, darker colours if you want to create a stormy mood, or lighter colours if you want to create a fresh and uplifting mood.[12]
- For a more realistic look, paint the sky first, and then the sea.
- Press stamps onto the cardboard to create a fun pattern. Lightly paint the surface of a stamp with acrylic paint and then press it onto the cardboard. Clean the stamp with a damp cloth and then apply a different colour. This will create a fun and contrasting pattern on the cardboard. Use a variety of different stamps to create different patterns and landscapes.[13]
- Purchase stamps from a craft store.
- Place paper underneath the cardboard to protect the surface you are working on.
- Experiment with differently textured cardboard to create unique paintings.
- Have fun and let your painting express your unique personality.
[Edit]Warnings - Always supervise children when they are using spray paints.
- Make sure to use spray paints in a well-ventilated area.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Painting with Acrylics - Gesso
- Flat paintbrush
- Cardboard
- Sponge or paintbrush
[Edit]Spray-Painting onto Cardboard - Spraypaint
- Old sheet
- Cardboard
[Edit]Creating Cardboard Art [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Clean a Beauty Blender Posted: 10 Jul 2022 05:00 PM PDT Standard cosmetic sponges are disposable, but the Beauty Blender and other similar blending sponges are specially designed and meant for long-term use. As such, you'll need to regularly clean your blender sponge to remove stains and harmful bacteria. [Edit]Basic Cleansing - Prepare a dish of warm, soapy water. Fill a small dish with warm water, then squeeze a dollop of gentle hand soap or shampoo into it. Mix lightly until suds form on the surface of the water. Dish soap is generally not recommended, as it can irritate your skin when you need to use the sponge later.
- Baby shampoo and "gentle formula" organic shampoos work especially well, but most soaps that are safe for use on your skin or hair can be used here.
- Soak the sponge for 30 minutes. Drop the sponge into the dish of soapy water. Squeeze it two or three times with your hand, then allow it to soak for approximately 30 minutes.[1]
- The dish should have enough water in it to completely cover the blender sponge. If there isn't enough water initially, simply add more as needed.
- As the sponge soaks, the water will likely begin to change color. Expect the water to take on a dingy beige or tan hue as it draws the foundation and other cosmetics out of the sponge.
- The sponge should also expand to its full size as it soaks in the soapy water.
- Massage cleanser into the sponge. Gently rub solid "Blender Cleanser" or an equivalent soap directly into the most heavily soiled areas of the sponge.You must use a gentle cleanser to avoid damaging the sponge. If you prefer solid soaps, castille soap usually works well. If you'd rather choose a liquid soap, consider moisturizing baby shampoo or an organic shampoo with a gentle formula.
- Spend 2-3 patient minutes massaging the cleanser into the sponge. Only use your fingertips; do not use a scrubbing brush or other abrasive tool since doing so could damage the sponge.
- Rinse the sponge free of soap. Rinse the sponge under warm, running water until all of the cleanser washes out of it. Any additional makeup sitting near the surface of the sponge should get rinsed out during this step as well.
- You may need to gently squeeze the sponge under the running water to help remove the soaps and makeup.
- Analyze whether or not the sponge is clean enough by the clarity of the water while rinsing. If the rinse water runs clear beneath the blender sponge, it should be adequately clean and you can move directly to the drying step. If the rinse water still seems dingy, skip the drying step and move into the deep cleaning method (see the "Deep Cleaning" section of this article).
- Dry using paper towels. Wring out excess water by gently squeezing the sponge with your hand, then roll the sponge in clean, dry paper towels to absorb any water still inside.
- If the sponge is still damp after you blot out the water with paper towels, let it sit in a dry location to continue air drying. Wait until the sponge is completely dry before using it as an applicator.
[Edit]Deep Cleaning - Deep clean the sponge only as needed. As a general rule, you'll only need to perform deep cleaning on your blender sponge if the sponge still appears dirty after following basic cleansing procedures outlined above.
- This is more likely to happen if you use your blender sponge multiple times per day or if you forget to clean it for one or more weeks.
- You'll know if your blender sponge needs deep cleaning by looking at it. If the rinse water at the end of your basic cleansing routine seems dirty, or if there are visible stains on the sponge after it dries, try deep cleaning it.
- Wet the sponge. Hold the sponge under warm, running water for 30 to 60 seconds, or until it absorbs enough water to expand to its full size.
- Alternatively, you could place the blender sponge in a bowl of warm water for 5 to 10 minutes. You do not need to use soapy water, nor do you need to wait for the water to change color before continuing to the next step.
- Apply cleanser to the soiled areas. Dab solid or liquid cleanser directly onto the most heavily soiled areas of the sponge.
- As with the basic cleaning procedure, you should only use gentle cleansers on your sponge. Specially formulated "Blender Cleanser" works well, but if you'd prefer another option, solid castille soap, liquid baby shampoo, or "sensitive formula" organic shampoos will also work.
- Rub the sponge against your palm. Rub the coated portions of the sponge against the center of your palm, working the sponge in small circular motions. Continue rubbing the sponge for approximately 30 seconds.[2]
- The scrubbing should be vigorous and more intense than the scrubbing used during your basic cleansing routine. Note, however, that it should still be gentle enough to avoid distorting the shape of the sponge or tearing the sponge material.
- As you scrub, the cosmetics lying deeper inside the sponge will be drawn out through the surface. You should notice the suds on your palm becoming tinted with the color of your foundation.
- Rinse while continuing to scrub. Rinse the sponge under warm, running water while continuing the rub it against your palm in circular movements. Keep rinsing the sponge until all of the suds are gone.
- You may need to rinse the sponge for several minutes before you clean out all the soap. It's important that you rinse out all of the soap, though, so don't rush the process.
- Test the sponge. Rinse the sponge under running water again until all of the suds disappear. Make sure that the water you squeeze out is clear and clean.
- Apply more cleanser to the sponge and rub it against your palm. If the resulting lather is white instead of gray or beige, the sponge should now be clean.
- Dry the sponge. Gently wring out most of the excess moisture by squeezing the sponge with your hand. Roll the sponge over clean, dry paper towels to dry it off even more.
- The sponge will probably still be damp after this, so set it aside in a dry place and allow it to air dry. Only use the blender sponge as an applicator once it is completely dry.
[Edit]Heat Sterilization - Sterilize the sponge monthly. Even if you clean your sponge on a weekly basis, you should still sterilize it using heat at least once a month. This is especially important if you use your blender sponge on a daily basis. Standard cleaning removes surface bacteria, but the only way to kill bacteria lying deeper in the sponge is by killing it with a short burst of intense heat.
- You may need to sterilize the sponge more than once a month if you notice the bacteria building up more rapidly. Signs of intense bacteria build-up include uncharacteristic acne breakouts and a foul/unusual odor coming from within the sponge.
- Note that you'll still need to perform a basic cleaning procedure after sterilizing the sponge. Sterilization will only kill the bacteria; it will not remove any cosmetic stains or foundation.
- Place the sponge in a dish of water. Fill a microwave-safe bowl with approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water. Lay the sponge down in the center of the water puddle.
- You must sit the blender sponge in water. Do not microwave a fully dry sponge since doing so could damage the material or cause the sponge to catch fire.
- Microwave for 30 seconds. Place the uncovered bowl in your microwave and run the appliance at full power for 30 seconds.[3]
- Keep an eye on the blender sponge as you microwave it. Don't be alarmed if it expands slightly or if small trails of smoke develop, but stop the microwave immediately if it balloons up past its full size or if heavy smoke starts to form.
- Let it rest. Wait one or two minutes before removing the bowl from the microwave and removing the sponge from the water.
- The sponge will likely be very hot once the microwave cycle ends, and the waiting period is primarily for your own protection. You can actually handle the sponge as soon as it is cool enough to touch.
- Dry the sponge. Gently roll the sponge in clean, dry paper towels. Let it sit out at room temperature until it feels completely dry.
- If you plan on performing a basic cleansing routine on the sponge after sterilizing it with heat, you can do so immediately after pulling it out of the microwave. You do not need to dry the sponge first.
- Wait until the blender sponge is completely dry before using it as an applicator.
- Clean the sponge every one to two weeks. If you use your blender sponge on a daily basis, you should perform a basic, routine cleansing roughly once per week. Even if you only use your sponge a few times per week, you should still clean it once every two weeks.
- Routine cleanings will remove most of the built-up cosmetic products sitting at the surface of your blender sponge and may remove some of the cosmetics lying deeper in the sponge, as well. It should also kill off most forms of surface bacteria. Letting sponges sit dirty for long periods of time promotes bacterial growth.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Basic Cleansing - Small bowl
- Water
- Gentle solid or liquid cleanser
- Sink
- Paper towels
[Edit]Deep Cleaning - Gentle solid or liquid cleanser
- Sink
- Paper towels
[Edit]Heat Sterilization - Microwave-safe bowl
- Water
- Microwave
- Paper towels
[Edit]References
[Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Grow Lucky Bamboo Posted: 10 Jul 2022 09:00 AM PDT Lucky bamboo is an easy-to-care-for houseplant that grows well in low, indirect light. This plant, which isn't really bamboo at all, but instead is a type of tropical water lily called Dracaena sanderiana, is from Africa and is said to bring good luck and good fortune to the inhabitants of any space where it is grown. With a few tips, your lucky bamboo will be healthy and thrive - and make you lucky to boot! [Edit]Setting Up and Choosing Your Plant - Look for a plant with bright green leaves. If the leaves or stems are yellow or brown, this means that the plant is unhealthy. The plant has likely been shipped from China or Taiwan, so it's been through quite a trek.[1]
- Professional growers take the stalks and braid and curl them into intricate designs. Larger, more intricate designs result in some lucky bamboo plants costing hundreds and hundreds of dollars.
- A plant kept in a pot can grow up to high. If it's grown in soil outside, it may reach a height of up to .[2]
- Decide if you want to grow it hydroponically or with soil. It's probably easiest and a little cleaner to grow in water and stones, though it can also grow in soil. Ultimately, it's up to you and will likely be determined by the pot or vase you have available.
- If you do go the stone route, the container should have enough stones or marbles in the bottom to stabilize it. The lucky bamboo will need at least 1 to 3 inches (3-8 cm) of water to thrive.
- If you want to grow it in soil, well-drained, rich potting soil is best. It needs to stay moist but not soaking at all times. Use organic fertilizer when needed; salts and high phosphorus concentrations in synthetic fertilizers can cause deterioration. Also, you can be sure your soil drains well by simply adding some small rocks to the bottom of the pot.
- Use the right container. Put the lucky bamboo in a tall glass vase or ceramic container – no shallow bowls – or leave it in the container it comes in. A clear container is great if you just want to grow the plant hydroponically with some decorative stones; use a regular terra cotta pot if you want to grow it in soil.
- Keep in mind that the plant needs to be stabilized at its peak height. Your container should be at least 1 foot (30 cm) in height.
- Using soil? Fill the pot up most of the way with your rich soil and make sure it can drain well.
- Choose the right spot. Lucky bamboo do best in bright, filtered sunlight – think of the light that creeps through the top of a forest canopy. Direct sunlight will scorch the leaves. And as for temperature, keep it away from the air conditioning or vent. This plant prefers an air temperature between 65ºF and 90ºF.[3]
- If you want to control the curl of your plant, use a three-sided box (a box with a side cut out). The plant will then bend toward the light. As it curves, change the side the sunlight faces, and the plant will curve back.[4]
[Edit]Helping Your Plant Grow - Place the lucky bamboo in a warm spot where it will get indirect light. Keep an eye on how much light the plant gets – if anything, too little light is better than too much.[5] While you're gone, turn the air off, too. It'll be nicer for the plant if it's a little warmer.
- As the seasons change, you may want to move the plant. Take it away from any windows if you're unsure. It'll still get plenty of light in the center of a room.
- Change the water every week if you're growing it hydroponically. And as for what water to use, this plant is very sensitive to chemicals like fluoride and chlorine – only use tap water if it's been sitting out for 24 hours (so the chemicals can evaporate. Otherwise, bottled water is best.
- Once the plant has grown roots, the roots must be kept covered with water. Again, 1-3 inches is all it takes.
- Water the plant carefully. If you're growing your plant in soil, water it just enough so the soil is moist but not soggy. Keep it this way every day. The plant can get dry-rot if the soil is too wet. You can also spray the leaves with water to keep it moist and humid. Again, use filtered or bottled water to avoid chemical damage.
- Encourage more roots by increasing the amount of water in which the plant is growing. More roots mean lusher top foliage; the higher the water is up the stalk, the higher up the roots will grow.
- Fertilizer your plant every month or so. If you're using soil, use organic fertilizer every month or so so the plant gets enough nutrients (again, go organic as synthetic can cause deterioration). If you're growing it hydroponically, use liquid fertilizer in the water. However, keep in mind that lucky bamboo does not need much fertilizer, so make sure that you dilute the fertilizer to one tenth of its strength.[6]
- Add it at the same time as you add the rest of the water; it's best to add fertilizer when the water is clean.
[Edit]Troubleshooting Lucky Bamboo - Prevent tip burn by using filtered or bottled water. Tip burn is when the leaves start to become dry and dead. This often happens when there are chemicals in the water. Setting your tap water out may not be enough – you may need to switch to bottled water to get your plant to look healthy.
- Once it gets tip burn, it may be hard to get rid of. Even if you do switch water, some chemicals may reside in the plant. You may just have to wait it out as it should go away eventually.
- Trim the plant. Over time, most of these plants become top heavy. Because of this, trimming is very important for it to stay healthy. Don't cut off the main stalk – just the offshoots. Use sterile snippers to do so.
- Trim them off within an inch or two (2.5 - 5 cm) of the base. New shoots will emerge and the plant will be bushier and healthier.
- Pay attention to the color of the leaves. If they're dry and dying, that's a water problem as discussed above. If they're yellowing, that's often a result of too much sunlight or too much fertilizer.[7] If they're brown, try making the area more humid by spraying the plant with water.
- As for mushy leaves, this plant could be beyond saving. Remove them immediately, change the water, and replant what you have left.
- Cut the plant if you must. If part of the plant is dying, you may have to cut it off. For example, if you notice that the base of the plant is turning yellow, then this is root rot and the plant will die. You can cut the top of the plant off and replant it, but there is a chance it may not grow. You may also consider cutting the plant if you don't like the shape the plant is taking on. Whatever you do, don't throw away the trimmings – they can be made into a new plant. New shoots will emerge from the bottom, older piece of the plant, and the top section can be potted to grow on its own.
- If you have a dying plant, get rid of the decaying parts immediately. Take any alive stems or branches and immediately repot them. They may flourish on their own if you take swift action.[8]
- Fertilizers that are made especially for lucky bamboo plants are usually available where the plants are sold. Add a drop of fertilizer to the water when it is changed to help the bamboo stay healthy and grow.
- The best water for your plant is fresh spring water, rainwater, or filtered water. The chemicals in tap water, such as chlorine, can harm the plant and cause the leaves and stalks to turn yellow.
- If algae is growing in your vase, you just need to change the water. It grows there due to sunlight, and that's natural.
- If your bamboo leaves are turning brown, spraying water around it helps it by making the air more humid.
[Edit]Warnings - Keep lucky bamboo out of the reach of young children and pets; the leaves are toxic if ingested.
- Do not expose your lucky bamboo to temperatures lower than 50 degrees F (10 degrees C). These tropical plants need warm, comfortable temperatures.
- Do not place your lucky bamboo somewhere where it will get too much sunlight. This will burn the plant, turning the leaves yellow, then brown.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Tall container or pot
- Rocks or marbles
- Water
- Soil
- Fertilizer made for Lucky Bamboo (optional, and not usually necessary)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Fix a Broken Zipper Posted: 10 Jul 2022 01:00 AM PDT While zippers are mostly reliable, they do break or get stuck sometimes. When this happens, you may be frustrated and fear that you'll need to replace the entire item itself. However, there are a variety of ways you can try to fix a zipper so you don't have to replace the item. With a little work, you may be able to fix a stuck zipper, repair broken zippers, and cope with a variety of other zipper problems. [Edit]Fixing a Stuck Zipper - Lubricate the zipper with graphite. When your zipper just won't budge, applying a lubricant can get it moving. Try rubbing graphite on your zipper's teeth to lubricate them.
- Purchase a graphite stick used specifically for lubrication. If you don't have one, use a Number 2 pencil.
- Run the pencil up and down the zipper's teeth. If you want, you can just apply it to the area of the teeth where the zipper is stuck.
- Wiggle the slider up and down until it moves smoothly along the teeth.
- Apply laundry soap. When graphite doesn't work, apply a dab of laundry soap to your stuck zipper. The soap may add an extra level of lubrication that will help you get the zipper unstuck. To use laundry soap as lubrication:[1]
- Pour a small amount of detergent into a small dish.
- Pour a small amount of water into the same dish.
- Dip a cotton ball or swab into the mixture.
- Use the saturated cotton ball to coat the teeth in the solution.
- Place the cotton ball down and gently attempt to unzip the zipper. It may only move a little. If this is the case, return the slider to its original position. Repeat until the zipper is unstuck.
- Wash the item and lubricate it. If graphite or laundry detergent don't work, you may want to launder the item and try again. Ultimately, washing the item may help remove dirt, grime, and other objects that hinder your ability to close the zipper. After you wash it, apply more lubricant.
- Consider washing the item by itself. This way, loose threads, fuzz, or debris from other items won't get stuck in the zipper.
[Edit]Addressing a Separated Zipper - Remove buildup from a zipper's teeth. When substances build up around the teeth of your zipper, it can prevent the zipper from staying closed. As a result, you'll need to clean the teeth and remove stuff that could be preventing the zipper from closing.
- Combine water and soap in a small dish, and stir until suds form.
- Dip a clean rag in the soapy water and wipe down the zipper's teeth.
- Grab a fresh rag and run it under the tap.
- Wipe the soapy mixture off the teeth with the damp rag.
- Attempt to zip and unzip as normal.[2]
- Straighten bent teeth. If all else fails, you may need to fix bent teeth to get your zipper to close. To do this, use your tool of choice (perhaps pliers) to pull the tooth straight.
- Repeat as needed.
- Be careful not to pull the tooth out of the tape.
- Test the repair by opening and closing the zipper as normal.
- Resecure the zipper and the teeth. Move the slider towards the bottom of the zipper without pulling it off. Straighten and align the zipper's teeth with your fingers. Slowly feed the zipper into the slider. You may need to apply a little force. Make sure the side of the zipper moves down all the way into the bottom stopper.
- You may need to repeat this several times.[3]
[Edit]Fixing Problematic Sliders - Remove the top zipper stops. You'll probably have to use a lot of force to remove the zipper stops. If you use pliers to gain more leverage, be careful that you don't clamp down too hard and further damage the zipper. This is important, as you won't be able to fully access the teeth of the zipper or examine the slider without removing the stops.[4]
- Slide the slider off the teeth from the top and examine it. Examine the slider from the side. Look to see if the space between the bottom and top of the slider are uneven. An uneven gap may prevent the slider from properly engaging the teeth.
- If the slider is bent or there is a gap, take a pair of pliers and try to straighten it out.
- If you can't fix the slider, you will have to replace it. The size should be listed on the back. If the size is not listed, measure the slider. Zipper parts are measured in millimeters. A 5-mm slider is a size 5. Purchase a replacement slider at your local fabric store or online.[5]
- Replace the slider. After you've fixed or replaced the slider, you need to put it back on the teeth of the zipper. When replacing the slider, make sure to:
- Locate the side of the zipper that has the square tab on the bottom.
- Wedge the top teeth of the zipper into the slider.
- If necessary, use a flathead screwdriver to wedge the teeth into the gap.
- Wiggle and pull the slider until it moves down to the bottom of the zipper.[6]
- Check to see if the slider works. Try zipping the item as normal to see if it has a complete range up and down the teeth track. There are a number issues that could continue to cause problems for you:
- If the zipper continues to split and you replaced the slider, you may have purchased the incorrect size. Try a different size slider.
- If you bent the original slider, the gap may still be uneven. Remove the slider and bend it again. Repeat until the item zips properly.[7]
- Replace the top zipper stops. Once you've replaced the slider, you'll have to replace the top zipper stops above the top set of teeth. Without securing the stops, your slider will fall off or won't function correctly.
- Use a pair of pliers to clench the stop into place.
- Press down on the stop 4 to 5 times to secure it.
- Repeat on the other side of the zipper.
- If you are only replacing 1 top zipper stop, make sure you place it on the side of the zipper with the tab at the bottom.[8]
[Edit]Repairing Missing Bottom Teeth - Take off the bottom stop. The bottom stop is the piece that the slider will rest against when it travels all the way down the teeth to the bottom of the zipper. To deal with missing bottom teeth, you'll have to remove the old bottom stop.
- Hold the garment firmly and pull the stops off.
- In some cases, you may need pliers to help you gain more leverage pulling the stop off.[9]
- Remove the tack at the base of the zipper. The tack is a piece that keeps the parts of the zipper secure to the garment. By removing the tack, you'll be able to fully access the teeth. This is important, as you'll need to fix all your zipper's teeth before your zipper will work correctly.
- Flip the garment inside out and locate the tack at the bottom of the placket layers of the item (this will be on the inside flap covering the zipper).
- Remove the tack with a seam ripper.[10]
- Attach a larger bottom stop. By inserting a new and larger bottom stop, you'll be able to cover missing teeth. Thus, your zipper will function normally and won't get stuck or snagged in the future.
- Bottom zipper stops are measured in millimeters. Determine the size you will need by measuring the width of the closed zipper.
- Turn the garment right side out.
- Push the prongs of the bottom zipper stop into the fabric directly above the old zipper stop—the new zipper stop will cover the missing bottom teeth.
- Turn the garment inside out and check if the stop is perpendicular to the zipper.
- Close the prongs with a pair of pliers to secure it in place.[11]
- Re-tack the placket layers. Once you've attached a new stop, you'll need to re-tack the bottom portion of the zipper so it holds together with the garment. This is somewhat easy to do.
- Turn your garment right side out.
- Use a sewing machine or a needle and thread to replace the tack you removed.[12]
[Edit]Creating Quick Fixes for Sudden Problems - Replace a broken pull with a new pull or a paperclip. Open the small metal ring attached to your new pull with the round tip pliers and hook the open metal ring onto the end of the slider. Use round tip pliers to close the metal ring and secure the new pull in place.
- If you're on the road and don't have a new pull or pliers, use a paperclip as a temporary pull. Simply slip the paperclip into the old pull or the slider itself.[13]
- Use a key ring to secure a slipping pants zipper. Slipping pants zippers are one of the most frustrating types of zipper problems. To create a temporary fix, attach a keyring onto the end of your zipper pull. Zip up the garment and hook the key ring around the button of your pants.[14]
- Manually close the zipper. If the zipper doesn't function correctly, you may be able to close it temporary by forcing both sides of the teeth together. To create a temporary fix, start at the bottom and move your way up until the zipper is closed.
- If you have buttons to secure your garment, fasten them to help keep the zipper closed.
- Be patient and willing to try more than 1 method.
- Go to your local fabric and sewing store to ask for assistance or additional advice.
- Don't use graphite on white or light colored zippers.
- You may use a variety of other lubricants if you don't have graphite or detergent on hand. Try lip balm, Windex, candle wax, or petroleum jelly. Before using one of these products, test the lubricant on a discrete portion of the item to ensure that it will not stain or ruin the item.
- You can use a cute keychain instead of a traditional zipper pull.
- In addition to the suggestions made in this article, there are several tricks you can try to fix the zipper if it's on your jeans.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - A new slider
- A paperclip
- New bottom stoppers
- Pliers
- Graphite
- Dish washing soap
- Fabric tacks
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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