| How to Reuse a Canvas Posted: 24 Dec 2019 04:00 PM PST Canvas is one of the most popular painting mediums since it has a flexible and forgiving surface. If you have a painted canvas and want to reuse it for a different painting, there are easy ways you can prime it to use again. When a canvas is originally painted with acrylics, then you can soak it in rubbing alcohol to lift as much paint before you prime the surface. For a canvas that was originally painted in oils, you'll have to scrape and sand the paint to remove it. If you want a fresh, clean surface to work on, then you can always flip the canvas over to the unused side to paint on it. Once you're finished, you can start painting again! [Edit]Painting over Acrylic on Canvas - Sand the painting with 120-grit sandpaper to remove any texture. Apply firm pressure to the canvas, but not so much that you tear through the canvas. Work in circular motions around the painted areas that have a raised or bumpy texture. Keep rubbing them with the sandpaper until they are level with the rest of the canvas' surface.[1]
- You don't need to sand the canvas if it doesn't have any raised textures.
- If you don't sand the canvas, the original texture will still be visible through your painting and cause it to look uneven.
- Apply a thin coat of white acrylic paint to the canvas. Dip the end of a natural-bristle brush into your paint and spread it out on your canvas. Work in long back and forth strokes going either horizontally or vertically for your first coat. Spread the paint so the canvas has a thin even coat covering the original painting.[2]
- Avoid repainting over dark pieces of art since it will be hard to hide the original colors.
- Don't apply the paint too thick or else it will take a long time to dry. It's okay if the original painting still shows through the first coat.
- Let the paint dry to the touch. Leave the canvas in a cool, dry area that's out of direct sunlight while it dries. After about 30 minutes, test the dryness of the paint by touching it with your finger. If there isn't any paint on your finger, then you can move on. Otherwise, let it dry longer and check it again in 15-–20 minutes.[3]
- Paint another layer of white going in the opposite direction. If you painted the first coat vertically, then apply the second coat in horizontal strokes. Try to fill in any spots that you missed on the first coat or areas where you can still see the original painting. Make sure the second coat of paint creates a thin, even layer on the canvas. Let the second coat dry to the touch, which will take around 30–60 minutes, before painting on it.[4]
- If you still see the original painting through the second coat, then apply a third coat once it's dry.
[Edit]Removing Acrylic Paint and Resurfacing the Canvas - Soak the canvas in rubbing alcohol for 1 hour to loosen the paint. Look for a container that's large enough to hold the entire canvas, and place it outside or in a well-ventilated area. Fill the bottom of the container with of rubbing alcohol and put the canvas in it so the painted side is face-down. Leave the canvas alone for at least 1 hour.[5]
- You can also use turpentine or ammonia in place of rubbing alcohol if you want.
- If you don't have a container for your canvas, spray the rubbing alcohol across the surface of the painting with a spray bottle.
- Pull out the canvas and scrape the paint off of the surface with a putty knife. Wear rubber gloves and a face mask when you scrape the painting so you don't irritate your skin. Shake off any excess liquid and set it on a flat work surface. Place the putty knife along the edge of the canvas and slowly push it away from you to lift any loose paint from the surface. Continue scraping the paint until there aren't any thick, textured areas.[6]
- The paint may have stained the canvas, so your canvas won't look perfectly clean when you're finished.
- Don't apply too much pressure to the putty knife, or else you may rip through the canvas.
- Clean the rubbing alcohol off with warm water and dish soap. Put your canvas in the sink and run warm water over it to get it wet. Apply a few drops of liquid dish soap onto a soft cleaning brush and scrub the canvas in circular motions. Apply light pressure to work the soap into the canvas to clean off any residual alcohol and remove leftover paint. You may notice the paint stains getting lighter on the canvas.[7]
- If your canvas doesn't fit in the sink, then you can also wipe warm water onto the surface with a cleaning rag instead.
- Rinse the canvas and allow it to dry overnight. Run warm water over the surface of the canvas to clean off any suds and soap. Once you've cleaned off all of the soap, place the canvas in a warm area so you can leave it to dry. Let the canvas dry completely overnight before you plan on using it again.[8]
- If the canvas didn't fit in your sink, wipe it with a rag soaked with warm water until it's clean.
- You can also place the canvas in direct sunlight to help speed up the drying process.
- Paint a layer of acrylic gesso on the canvas. Mix the gesso using a stir stick, and apply it to your canvas with a natural-bristle paintbrush. Start in the center of the canvas and work the gesso into a thin layer with either horizontal or vertical strokes.[9]
- You can buy acrylic gesso from an art supply shop or online.
- It's okay if you can still see some of the original paint through the gesso since you'll be adding another coat.
- Mix a colored acrylic paint into the gesso if you want to have a different base color on your canvas.
- Let the gesso dry for 20–30 minutes. Put the canvas in a cool, dry place and allow it to dry to the touch. Test how dry the gesso is by touching it with your fingertip to see if any lifts off of the canvas. If your finger is clean after touching the canvas, you can move onto the next step.[10]
- Hold the canvas up to the light to see if there are any shiny spots. If the canvas is shiny, that means the gesso is still wet.
- Apply a second layer of gesso in the opposite direction. If you painted the first layer of gesso with horizontal strokes, then use vertical strokes for the second coat. Continue painting on a layer of gesso to cover any areas you missed the first time and give yourself a smooth painting surface. Once you finish the second coat, let it dry for another 1–2 days before painting on it.[11]
- You can add 1–2 more layers of gesso if the original paint still shows through. Allow each coat to dry completely before you apply the next one.
[Edit]Stripping Oil Paint to Create a Blank Canvas - Scrape as much paint off as you can with a razor blade. Put on a face mask or a respirator before you scrape the paint off since it contains harmful particles. Hold the razor blade at a slight angle to the canvas and push it away from you to remove thick, textured oil paints. Apply light pressure to scrape as close to the canvas as you can without cutting through it.[12]
- Never pull the cutting edge of the razor toward your body so it doesn't slip and cause serious injury.
- You can also use a putty knife if the razor blade works too slowly.
- Sand the old paint off with 120-grit sandpaper to remove the texture. Use long back and forth motions to scrape the paint off of the canvas. Apply light pressure to the canvas to remove the paint more effectively from the surface, but not so much that you rip or tear through it. Continue working the sandpaper until you can see blank canvas showing through the paint.[13]
- The oils paints may have stained the canvas, so it may not come off completely.
- If the fabric is too flexible and you aren't able to apply much pressure to the canvas while sanding, place boards of scrap wood or another flat surface underneath it so you have a solid surface to sand on.
- Rub denatured alcohol on the canvas to clean off paint particles. Denatured alcohol, also known as isopropyl alcohol, helps lift residual paint and cleans the surface so gesso can adhere better. Dip the end of a cleaning rag in denatured alcohol and rub the entire surface of the painting. Work in back and forth strokes to remove any paint or dust that's still on the surface. When you're finished, allow the alcohol to dry for 10–20 minutes.[14]
- Apply a thin coat of oil-based gesso on the canvas. Mix the gesso thoroughly with a stir stick before applying it so it has the best consistency. Start by applying the gesso in the middle of the painting and spreading it out toward the edges with a natural-bristle paintbrush. Work either in vertical or horizontal strokes until you have a thin coat of gesso over the entire surface.[15]
- You can buy oil-based gesso from an art supply shop or online.
- It's okay if you can still see some of the original painting through the first coat of gesso.
- Let the gesso dry to the touch for 20–30 minutes. Set the canvas is a cool, dry spot away from the sun while it dries. After 30 minutes, touch the canvas with your finger and check if any of the gesso lifted off the canvas. If your finger is clean, then you can move on. Otherwise, leave the gesso to dry longer.[16]
- Keep the canvas flat while the gesso dries so it doesn't form any drips.
- Put on a second layer of gesso going the opposite direction. Putting the gesso on in a different direction helps the canvas have a smoother finish and fills in spots you missed more effectively. If you put the first coat on horizontally, then use vertical strokes for the second layer. Continue brushing the gesso on until there's a thin layer and you can't see the paint underneath. Let the gesso dry for at least 1–2 days before you start painting on it.[17]
- If you need to apply additional layers of gesso to hide the underlayer of paint, then wait for 20–30 minutes before putting on another coat.
- You cannot use acrylic paints on oil-based gesso since it won't adhere as well and could cause the painting to crack.
[Edit]Flipping the Canvas and Using the Backside - Pull the nails or staples out from the canvas frame to detach it. Flip the canvas over so the back of the frame is face-up and you can see the nails or staples holding the fabric in place. Grip the nails or staples with a pair of pliers and pull them straight out from the canvas frame. Continue removing all of the nails or staples until the canvas is detached from the frame.[18]
- This method only works on canvas that's stretched onto a frame and does not work with canvas panels.
- The nails or staples may be on the sides of the frame instead of the back.
- Set the frame on top of the detached canvas so the painted side is face up. Lay your canvas down on a flat surface so the painted side is face-up. Put the frame on the canvas so the back is face-up, and line up the creases on the canvas with the frame's edges. Make sure the canvas stays flat against your work surface and doesn't have any wrinkles.[19]
- Drive nails or staples into the centers of each side of the frame. Start on one of the long sides of the canvas to make the process easier. Bend the edges of the canvas around the frame and pull it tightly onto the back side of the frame. Hammer a nail or place a staple through the canvas in the center of the frame's side to secure it in place. Rotate the frame and canvas so you can nail or staple the other long side so it's pulled tight. Repeat the process on the 2 short sides.[20]
- Ask a helper to assist you in pulling and securing the canvas to help ensure that it's tight.
- Stretch the canvas so it's pulled tightly in the frame. Start from the center of a long edge and securing the canvas to the frame every . Once you put in a nail or staple, add one in the same spot on the opposite side to ensure the canvas stretches evenly. Continue pulling the canvas tight and securing it to the frame until you reach the corners. Repeat the process on the short sides to ensure the front of the canvas has no ripples or wrinkles.[21]
- When you're finished, the front of the canvas should look flat and move slightly when you apply pressure to it.
- Apply layers of gesso to the unpainted side of the canvas and let them dry. Use an acrylic-based gesso if you want to use acrylic paints or oil-based gesso for oils. Start your first coat of gesso going in either horizontal or vertical strokes using a natural-bristle paintbrush. Once you have a thin layer of gesso, let it dry to the touch for 20–30 minutes. When the first layer is dry, you can put on a second layer using strokes in the opposite direction that your first coat.[22]
- You can also cover the painted side on the back of the canvas with gesso if you want to hide it.
[Edit]Warnings - Work in a well-ventilated area while you're removing paint so fumes or particles don't build up in the area.
- Wear a face mask or respirator while you're sanding or scraping paint off of a canvas since the paint contains harmful particles.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Painting over Acrylic on Canvas - 120-grit sandpaper
- natural-bristle paintbrush
- White acrylic paint
[Edit]Removing Acrylic Paint and Resurfacing the Canvas - Container large enough for the canvas
- Rubbing alcohol
- Face mask
- Rubber gloves
- Putty knife
- Sink
- Dish soap
- Cleaning brush
- Acrylic gesso
- natural-bristle paintbrush
[Edit]Stripping Oil Paint to Create a Blank Canvas - Face mask or respirator
- 120-grit sandpaper
- Denatured alcohol
- Cleaning rag
- Oil-based gesso
- natural-bristle paintbrush
[Edit]Flipping the Canvas and Using the Backside - Pliers
- Hammer or stapler
- Acrylic- or oil-based gesso
- natural-bristle paintbrush
[Edit]References |
| How to Wrap Presents Without Tape Posted: 24 Dec 2019 08:00 AM PST Taking time to wrap a present is a great way to show someone you care. It can be frustrating, though, to start wrapping only to realize that you don't have any tape on hand. Fortunately, there are a few ways that you can wrap a present without using any tape. With just a bit of effort, you can wrap a present beautifully without tape in an origami style, or use a ribbon, stickers, glue, or nail polish to secure the wrapping. [Edit]Using Origami-Style Gift Wrapping - Measure the long side of the box to see how much paper you need. Using a ruler or measuring tape, measure one of the longer sides of the gift box. Then, measure how tall the gift box is and multiply this number by 2. Add these measurements together to get the length you'll need to cut the wrapping paper in order to wrap the box without tape.[1]
- If you're wrapping a square box, you can measure any of the sides since they are all the same length.
- Cut the wrapping paper in a square to size. Using your measurements, cut the wrapping paper so that all 4 sides measure the length needed to cover the longest sides of the box. Even if the gift box is rectangular, you'll need to cut the wrapping paper in a large square to make the folds more even.[2]
- You are essentially cutting the wrapping paper into a very large piece of origami paper, which is almost always square.
- Place the gift box facing down on top of the wrapping paper. First, lay the wrapping paper out on a flat surface, making sure the decorative side is facing down. Then, place the gift box in the middle of the wrapping paper with the top of the box facing down. Finally, turn the gift box so that the corners of the wrapping paper are aligned with the middle of the corresponding side of the gift box.[3]
- Fold one of the long flaps over the gift box. If you're wrapping a rectangular box, first fold the corresponding flap over one of the longer sides so that the corner of the wrapping paper lays on top of the box in the middle. If you're wrapping a square box, you can fold any of the flaps up first. Run your finger along the edge to make a crease and smooth out the fold so it'll stay in place better.[4]
- Lift the 2 side flaps and fold them over the top. Lay your hand underneath one of the flaps on either the left or right side of the box. Lift the paper up to fold the flap over the edge of the box, laying it on top of the flap you've already folded.[5] Run your finger along the edge to make a crease and keep the flap in place.
- Repeat this process to fold the other side flap on top of the first flap as well.
- If the folded-in flaps won't stay in place, you may need to use a paper weight or heavy item, such as a book, to temporarily hold them in place.
- The side flaps should meet in the middle of the box, creating a "v" shape. They can meet in the middle exactly or overlap slightly – either way will work fine.
- Fold the final flap up over the top of the box. The flap should lay on top of the 3 flaps you've already folded up. Run your finger along the edge to crease the paper at the fold and smooth it out.[6]
- Tuck the corner of the final flap under the side flaps. Hold the final flap down flat on top of the box, noting where the flap meets the edges of the side flaps. Lift the final flap slightly and fold it over so the crease lines up right where the flap meets the edges of the side flaps. Then, use your fingers to tuck the folded corner of the final flap under the side flaps, pushing it back towards itself.[7]
- Once the flap is securely tucked under, your present should stay wrapped on its own.
- If the wrapping paper puckers at all, run your finger along all the edges again to flatten the creases even more.
[Edit]Securing the Wrapping with Other Items - Tie a ribbon around the present to hold the wrapping paper in place. Lay a piece of ribbon out on a flat surface. Wrap the present as you normally would while making the creases in the edges sharp so that the paper holds in place while you work. Place the box on the ribbon in the middle so the top faces down. Fold the ribbon pieces on either side over the box, twisting them up around each other in the middle. Then, wrap the ribbon down around the other sides. Flip the box and pull the ribbons to meet in the middle, then secure them with a bow.[8]
- You might need another person to help you hold the wrapping paper in place until you can secure it with a ribbon.
- Instead of ribbon, you can also use twine or string.
- Apply stickers along the edges to secure the wrapping in place. Choose a set of at least 3 holiday or theme appropriate stickers. Wrap the gift as you normally would, using the stickers to securing the paper in place right where you would generally use tape.[9]
- Add some additional stickers on the top of the gift to make it more decorative and fun.
- If the stickers you're using are small or not very sticky, you'll likely need to use more on the sides to hold the paper in place.
- Use glue to secure the wrapping in place of tape. Cut your wrapping paper to size while adding a few extra inches on each side so the paper will overlap. Place the box on top of the paper, then fold up 2 opposite sides first. Lay one side down flat and put a dab of glue in the center along the edge. Immediately press the other flap on top and hold it in place for about 10 seconds. Then, fold and wrap up each of the sides of the gift, securing with glue in the same manner.[10]
- Let the glue dry completely before giving your gift away.
- Using a hot glue gun will likely work best for thicker wrapping paper. A glue stick or regular tube of glue will likely work on thinner wrapping paper, however.
- Paint nail polish along the edges to hold the paper in place. Wrap the gift as you normally would with wrapping paper. Then, as you fold up each of the flaps, paint nail polish along the edge of the paper that lays on top. Hold it in place for about 2 minutes to give the polish time to dry.[11]
- If you want it to be invisible, you can use clear nail polish, or a polish in the same color as the wrapping paper.
- Add a bit of extra décor to your gift with a glitter, glow-in-the-dark, or colorful polish.[12]
- If you don't have any wrapping paper, you can also use newspaper, magazines, or pages from a large book to wrap without tape.
- You can also use a gift bag and tissue for an easy alternative to wrapping with paper and tape.
- If you have any non-traditional types of tape, such as wasabi tape, electrical tape, duct tape, or packing tape, you can use them in place of regular tape as well.
[Edit]References |
| How to Make Ice Cubes Without a Tray Posted: 24 Dec 2019 12:00 AM PST Without an ice cube tray, trying to cool down your drink on a hot day can seem impossible. There's no need to worry though, because there are a number of ways to make ice cubes when you don't have a tray. You can use silicon molds, improvise with an egg carton, or make crushed ice in a plastic bag. So long as you have access to a freezer, these household goods will allow you to make ice cubes that will work just as well as the kind you make in a tray. [Edit]Using a Silicone Mold - Choose a mold that will hold water easily without spilling. If you have a baking mold made of silicone that is rigid and deep enough that water will stay in as you move it around, it will work just like an ice cube tray. The best molds are ones with solid shapes like squares or circles, but ones with a design on them will also work.[1]
- Since silicon molds are often used to make shaped cookies and candies, each "cube" will take on the shape of whatever the mold is.
- Fill the shapes with water. Run your tap over the mold until each shape fills with water. Don't let the water spill into other shapes or sit above the depressions, as this can cause a thin sheet of ice to form on top of the ice "cubes." Try to hold the mold with your hands on the bottom so that it doesn't sag or begin to leak.[2]
- You can leave a little air at the top of each depression if you want to avoid the risk of a thin layer altogether.
- Freeze the molds for at least 4-8 hours. In order to freeze all the way through, the ice cubes need to stay in the freezer for several hours at a minimum. If you want to make sure the cubes won't break or melt as quickly, be sure to freeze them for at least 8 hours. Doing this overnight is a good way to make sure you have solid ice by morning.[3]
- Pop the ice out by twisting the mold, just like an ice tray. The soft silicone should bend a bit, allowing the ice to break off and be pulled out. You can also try to pat the tray from the underside to release loosened ice cubes. If you are too rough with the mold, it could break or get damaged.[4]
- Use the flat end of a fork or spoon handle to get between the ice and the mold if you are struggling to break the ice loose.
[Edit]Making Ice Cubes in a Plastic Bag - Fill a plastic zipper bag 1/4 full with water. Run your tap into a plastic bag until it looks like it's about a quarter of the way full. You can use any size of bag, with larger bags producing more ice because they can hold more water. No matter the size, the water shouldn't go past the 1/4 mark, and you should never fill the bag to the brim.[5]
- You can use both freezer bags and thinner sandwich bags to make ice.
- Zip the bag shut to keep the water inside. Once you've filled the bag up 3/4 of the way, zip the bag at the top by securely pressing the two sides together or by pulling the zipper across to secure the bag. Leaving this open at all will lead to spillage in your freezer, so make sure you close it tightly.[6]
- Leave some air in the bag so that it's easier to get the ice cubes out after breaking them apart. You only need just enough air that the top of the bag isn't pressed tightly against the water.
- Lay the bag on its side in the freezer. In order to get a layer of ice that is easy to break apart or crush, you'll need the water to freeze horizontally in the bag. Lay the lay the bag flat on the flattest available surface in the freezer.[7]
- The flattest surface is probably the freezer's floor, as the grates used to create shelves will let the bag droop and form an uneven block.
- If you're worried about spillage, you can put the bag on top of a tray, or inside of another bag.
- Freeze the water in the bag for 4-12 hours, depending on the amount of water. A small bag may freeze in 4 hours, but larger bags could take 8-12 hours to freeze hard enough that you can break the ice up without it melting too quickly. The more water in the bag, the longer it will take to freeze.[8]
- The longer amount of time is due to the fact that the water has to freeze as a single block, rather than separate, individual pieces.
- Break up the ice after removing it. You can use your hands to break up the ice into small, thin chunks that resemble cubes, or you can simply take a rolling pin and crush up the ice. If you filled the bag over 1/4 of the way full, you'll almost definitely need to crush up the ice, as there won't be a thin, snappable layer.[9]
- You should do this while the ice is still in the bag to keep it from spilling out.
[Edit]Improvising with an Egg Carton - Choose a styrofoam egg carton for a simple, waterproof ice tray. If your eggs come in a styrofoam carton, you already have a perfect ice tray alternative. The styrofoam will be almost entirely waterproof, and the water will freeze without binding to the styrofoam like it would with a paper carton.[10]
- Be sure to wash the carton thoroughly beforehand to get rid of any possible food borne illnesses like salmonella.
- Line a paper carton with foil if you don't have a styrofoam one. If you get your eggs in the more common paper carton, you can still use it to make ice cubes. Take a sheet of aluminum foil and break off squares to press into the dimples. So long as no holes form as you do this, the foil will create a waterproof barrier between the water and the paper.[11]
- Make sure there aren't any gaps by using a square piece and pressing it down into the middle of the dimple to create a seamless lining.
- It's a good idea to let the foil stick up a bit above the carton so it's easier to pull the ice out.
- Fill the dimples with water. Whether you are using a lined paper carton or a styrofoam one, you can fill the dimples up with tap water to a point just below the top of the dimple. If you fill the dimples too far, they might spillover into one another. Your ice will form little dome shapes in the carton.[12]
- Do this especially carefully if you are using a paper carton, as spray from the water could dissolve the paper.
- Freeze the carton for at least 4-8 hours with the lid off. As you put the carton in the freezer, make sure the lid doesn't cover the dimples, as this could keep the water from freezing as quickly. The ice will need at least 4 hours to become solid and at least 8 hours, or an overnight freeze, to minimize melting and breaking.[13]
- You can also remove the lid entirely before filling the carton up.
- Remove the ice from the carton by pressing up on the bottom. A push on the underside of each dimple will apply pressure to the ice and help you get it out of the carton. If you used a paper carton, you might be able to simply pull up on the foil, depending on how much condensation formed between the paper and the foil.[14]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Silicone Mold Ice Cubes - Silicone mold
- Water
- A freezer
[Edit]Plastic Zipper Bag Ice Cubes - Zipping plastic bag
- Water
- A freezer
- Rolling pin (optional)
[Edit]Egg Carton Ice Cubes - Styrofoam or paper egg carton
- Water
- A freezer
- Aluminum foil (for a paper carton)
[Edit]References |
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