| How to Write a Check Posted: 21 Nov 2019 04:00 PM PST Writing checks is an easy and important skill every adult should know. To write a check, fill in the current date on the line in the upper right corner, the name of the recipient in the "Pay" field, the numerical amount next to the dollar sign ($), and the written form of the same amount on the line beneath; sign the check on the bottom right line and consider adding a "memo" about the check's purpose on the lower left line. The more often you write checks, the more natural the process will become. [Edit]Annotated Check [Edit]Writing a Check - Write the date on the line in the upper right-hand corner. There will be a blank space next to or above the word "Date." Remember that a check is a legal document, and the date written here should always be the day that you sign the bottom of the check.[1]
- Write the name of the recipient. Write the name of the person or company you're sending the check to next to the line that says "Pay to the Order of." If it's a company and you're not sure exactly what it's called, make sure you get that information right before you write the check. You can also just pay the check to "Cash," but be careful, because that means that anyone can cash it.[2]
- If it's to an individual, include both their first and last names. If they are a 'Jr.' or a 'Sr.' you should include this as well.
- If the check is going to an organization, write out its full name. Do not use acronyms unless explicitly given permission.
- Write the amount of the check to the right of the dollar sign. Write the exact amount, using dollars and cents. If the check is for twenty dollars, write "20.00."
- Write the monetary amount of the check in word form below the "Pay to the Order of" line. Make sure you also express the number of cents if there are cents, or write "even" at the end of the amount so that another person doesn't add more money to the amount. If you've written a check for $20.00, write either "Twenty dollars and 0/100 cents," "Twenty dollars even," or just "Twenty" with a line running all the way from the right of the word to the end of the line.[3]
- Sign the check on the line in the bottom right corner. Your check will be invalid if it is not personally signed.[4]
- Fill out the memo section on the bottom left of the check. Though this part of the check is optional, it can be helpful to write a note to yourself or the recipient to remember what the check is for. You can write "For May rent" if you're sending a rent check. Also, many companies or landlords require that you provide some other information in the memo section; some companies require you to write your ID number in the "Memo" section, and if you're writing a rent check for your apartment, you should write the apartment # right in the memo section.[5]
- Always draw a line if there is still space after you write your amount in word form. This will prevent someone writing in an additional few zeros.
- Always sign your name the same way.
- Always use a pen in a dark color such as blue or black. Gel pens are recommended because ink removing liquids do not work as well with the gel.
- If you're writing a check that you don't want to be cashed until a certain day, write the day that you'd like it to be cashed. For example, if you're writing a rent check early but don't want it cashed until the first of the month, write that date on the check. Note, however, post dating won't guarantee that the recipient will not be able to cash the check before the date written on the check
- When you write the amount of the check in the little box, make sure you write it as close to the dollar sign as possible. Forgers will try to sneak in an extra digit.[6]
- Always make sure you use the correct date. If you don't know the date, guess an earlier one. You can postdate a check, but not everyone will accept them. [7]
[Edit]Warnings - Make sure your check is written out correctly with the correct spelling of the name and the correct amount of money due to that person.
- When tearing the check from your checkbook, be sure to tear as cleanly as possible. The printed numbers along the bottom of the check, called the MICR line, are necessary for cashing or depositing the check; so is the check number, usually located in the top right near the date. If any of these numbers are partially torn off, the check will be rendered invalid.
- Remember that post-dated checks can be deposited immediately. The date is used to determine when a check becomes stale and will be refused by the bank (typically 7 years after the date unless otherwise specified), not the earliest date that the check can be cashed. A lot of people have been burned by unscrupulous people promising to hold onto checks until the specified date(s).
[Edit]Things You'll Need - A bank checking account
- A book of checks
- A pen
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Repair a Leather Jacket Posted: 21 Nov 2019 08:00 AM PST Finding a tear in your favorite leather jacket can be a real bummer. Fortunately, there's no need to let it languish in the closet for fear of doing further damage, or to pay an arm and a leg having it repaired at a high-end leather shop. You can easily make minor wear and tear disappear using a basic commercial leather repair kit. For more extensive damage, you also have the option of sewing on a patch cut from a brand new piece of leather of the same color and texture to reinforce the area around the tear. [Edit]Fixing Small Tears with a Leather Repair Kit - Purchase a commercial leather repair kit. You can pick up a basic leather repair kit from any sewing supply shop or arts and crafts store. These kits typically contain one or more hard-wearing sub patches, a small amount of leather-safe fabric glue, and small tools for applying both components.[1]
- Some deluxe kits also contain a selection of colored leather dyes, which you can use to restore the damaged part of your jacket to its original color once your repairs are complete.
- Commercial leather repair kits will be most useful for mending tears shorter than about in length.
- Turn the jacket inside out and undo the stitching around the lining, if necessary. If your leather jacket has a liner sewn-in for added warmth and comfort (as most do), your first task will be to open up the section covering the damaged area enough to access the tear itself. Use a pair of scissors or seam ripper to neatly remove the stitching holding the lining in place. Be careful not to damage the seam or surrounding fabric any more than necessary, as this will make it harder to sew back up later.[2]
- Seam rippers only cost a few dollars, and will help you make much neater work of all your future fabric-working projects.[3]
- You may be able to skip this step if the tear is located around the collar, one of the pockets or lapels, or another area that's not concealed by the liner.
- Insert a thin piece of wood or cardboard beneath the damaged area. Turn the jacket right-side-out again and slide your material directly underneath the torn leather. This will help ensure that the area stays smooth and flat while you work.[4]
- Make sure your wood or cardboard is situated between the leather shell and the lining, not below the lining alone.
- Clean the area with an alcohol swab. Wipe the leather around the tear thoroughly to remove any dust, dirt, or oil residue that's collected on the fabric. The alcohol will evaporate on its own in a few short moments, so don't worry about wiping or drying it.[5]
- Rubbing alcohol makes a great leather cleaner—it's antibacterial, dries fast, and won't wrinkle, crack, or otherwise damage natural leather.
- If you don't have any alcohol swabs handy, you can also wet a lint-free cloth with warm water and use it to go over the site.
- Cut the included subpatch larger than the tear on all sides. Take a pair of scissors and carefully snip the excess material around the edges of the patch. If you're contending with a rip, you'll want to trim your subpatch to a length of and a width of about to make sure it covers the damage completely.[6]
- You can also modify the subpatch to fit over holes, flaps, and irregularly-shaped tears.
- The sub-patches that come with most commercial leather repair kits are small squares of tough knitted fabric that are designed to be glued to the soft underside of the leather.[7]
- Tuck the subpatch into the tear and smooth it down flat. The easiest way to do this is to use a pair of tweezers, a palette knife, or a similar tool, but you can also use a finger if the tear is wide enough. Once you've got the fabric in place, take a moment to double-check that it's free of folds or wrinkles.[8]
- If the subpatch isn't perfectly flat, it may not provide adequate coverage. It will also be harder to glue down, which will make it more likely to slip out of place.
- Glue the tear shut over the subpatch. Dab a small amount of the adhesive included with your kit onto the surface of the subpatch where it sits below the torn leather. Then, carefully bring the edges of the tear together by hand, making sure they're as perfectly aligned as possible. Press both edges down into the glue and apply steady pressure to them for at least 30 seconds to make sure they stay put.[9]
- For more detailed instructions, refer to the drying guidelines provided on the product's packaging.
- Allow the glue to cure for about 24 hours. Exact drying and curing times will vary depending on the product you're using. Most types of leather-suitable fabric glues will be dry to the touch after about 5 minutes and cure completely within 24 hours. For best results, leave the jacket to sit undisturbed overnight.[10]
- Stash your jacket in a cool, dry environment. Atmospheric moisture could interfere with the adhesive's ability to set up correctly.
- Resist the urge to handle your jacket while you're waiting for the glue to cure. In particular, you want to avoid doing anything that might re-open the freshly-glued seam.
- Sew the lining back into the inside of your jacket before wearing it. Once the glue has had plenty of time to cure, turn the jacket inside out again and re-stitch the section of lining you loosened up to get to the tear. Knot the ends of your thread to prevent the stitches from slipping. After that, you'll be ready to rock![11]
- Leather is quite a bit heavier than most fabrics, so you'll need to use a sturdy needle and a strong, durable type of thread, such as nylon or waxed linen.
[Edit]Patching Large Damaged Areas - Turn the jacket inside out and pinpoint the hole or tear. This may require you to snip the stitches securing the inner lining and gently pull it aside, depending on the style of the garment. Rest your jacket on a sturdy work surface that allows the material to lie as flat as possible.
- It's always best to patch damaged leather from the inside in order to make your repairs less conspicuous.
- Patching is generally the best method for repairing holes, jagged rips, and tears longer than about .
- Use tape to hold long, straight tears shut. Tear off a strip of clear tape and smooth it down over the entire length of the tear to close up the edges. Make sure the piece you use is large enough to completely cover the damage by at least on all sides.[12]
- If the tear you're trying to patch is long, for example, you'll want to use a piece of tape that's around in length.
- The tape will seal up the tear and keep the edges of the leather from separating until you can put on the patch.
- Dab fabric glue into the tear from the visible side of the jacket. Turn the jacket right-side-out again, being careful not to dislodge the tape on the underside of the damaged area. Dip a toothpick or similar thin, pointed tool into a bottle of high-strength fabric glue and use it to spread the glue into the crevice formed by the torn edges of the leather.
- Use just enough adhesive to fill in the gaps in the material. If you overdo it, you could end up with noticeable crusty spots on your jacket after the glue dries.
- Be sure to pick up a type of fabric glue that's specifically intended for use on leather.[13]
- Like the tape, a preliminary application of glue will help hold the edges of the tear together as tightly as possible.
- Allow the glue to dry for at least 30 minutes. Most leather-suitable fabric glues are designed to cure in a matter of minutes, but it's a good idea to give it a little longer since you want the bond to be nice and secure. In the meantime, hold off on touching your jacket so as not to compromise the glue's hold.[14]
- Find a cool, dry place to leave your jacket where it won't be disturbed or exposed to environmental moisture.
- If you're working with a heat-set type of adhesive, wave a hair dryer or heat gun over the glued tear for 20-30 seconds to speed the process along.[15]
- Cut a patch big enough to cover the damage from a matching piece of leather. While you're waiting for the glue to finish setting up, grab a utility knife or sharp pair of scissors and carefully cut out your patch. Size the patch about larger than the hole or tear on all sides, and make sure it has a regular shape to make it easier to sew on later.[16]
- To reinforce a round hole, for instance, you'd want to use a patch that's roughly round or square.
- Circular, square, or rectangular patches will work just fine for the majority of holes and tears.
- Glue the patch into place on the underside of the damaged area. Once the glue has had time to dry completely, turn the jacket inside-out one more time and apply a small amount of glue onto the backside of the patch, using a zig-zag pattern for better coverage. Peel off the tape holding the tear together from the inside of the jacket and press the patch onto the leather in its place. Keep pressure on the patch for 20-30 seconds, or until it's set enough to stay put on its own.[17]
- After sticking on your patch, let the glue dry for another half hour before moving on.
- Stitch around the edges of the patch to secure it. Thread a sturdy needle with nylon or waxed linen thread and guide it back and forth through the outer edges of the patch in a standard straight stitch pattern. When you've made your way all the way around the patch, snip the excess thread and knot the loose ends to prevent them from slipping out. Your jacket will now be ready for a night out on the town![18]
- Start and end your stitches on the inside of the jacket so your finished knots won't be visible.
- For an even more durable and long-lasting repair job, consider combining a leather patch with leather repair compound and a coat of fresh leather dye.
[Edit]Hiding Mended Areas with Leather Repair Compound - Spread a thin layer of leather repair compound onto the repaired area. Scoop up a small amount of compound with the included applicator tool and smooth it onto the seam left behind from the hole or tear you just fixed. Be sure to brush a little compound onto the surrounding area, as well—this will help produce a more consistent-looking finish when it comes time to blend it.[19]
- Use just enough compound to fill in the seam before working your way outward. The heavier you apply it, the more noticeable it will be.
- If the leather repair compound you bought didn't come with an applicator, a plastic knife or similar utensil will work just as well.
- Heat-set the compound with a hair dryer or heat gun for about a minute. Switch your heat tool on to its lowest heat setting and wave it back and forth over the fresh compound, keeping the nozzle roughly away from the leather. The majority of leather fillers on the market are formulated to set within 60-90 seconds with constant exposure to low heat.[20]
- The compound will take on a dull matte finish once it's fully set.
- You can also let the compound air dry if you don't have a hair dryer or heat gun handy, though this could take up to an hour under ordinary conditions.
- Buff the compound with a sheet of high-grit sandpaper. Go over the dried compound lightly using smooth, circular motions. As you do, you'll notice it growing more and more faint in appearance. The idea is to gradually blend the compound into the leather around the tear so that it's not quite as obvious.[21]
- If your leather repair compound came as part of a kit, it will most likely contain sandpaper for blending. If not, look for a sheet that's 220-grit or higher.
- Be careful not to remove any of the compound within the repaired area itself.
- Apply 1-2 coats of leather dye to camouflage the repair compound (optional). If you can still see the dried compound after blending it into the leather, one thing you can do is purchase a bottle of leather dye for a quick and easy cover-up. Just grab a lambswool dauber or an old cloth or sponge and rub on enough dye to cover the repaired area entirely, setting aside at least an hour of drying time between coats. Once it's dry, you'll hardly be able to tell that your jacket was ever damaged in the first place![22]
- If the dye is running or beading on the leather, gently blot it with a clean part of your cloth or sponge to remove the excess and work the remaining dye deeper into the natural textures of the leather.
- Leather dyes are available in a wide range of colors. Be sure to select a shade that most closely matches your jacket's original color.
- If you don't want to risk doing any more harm to your jacket, your best bet is to take it to a qualified leather expert and spend a few extra dollars having it repaired professionally.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Fixing Small Tears with a Leather Repair Kit - Leather repair kit
- Scissors
- Thin piece of wood or cardboard
- Alcohol swab
- Tweezers
- Needle and thread
- Seam ripper tool (optional)
- Clean cloth and mild soap solution (optional)
- Palette knife (optional)
- Clear tape (optional)
[Edit]Patching Large Damaged Areas - Scrap leather patch
- Sharp scissors or utility knife
- Clear tape
- Fabric glue
- Toothpick or similar tool
- Needle and thread
- Hair dryer or heat gun (optional)
[Edit]Hiding Mended Areas with Leather Repair Compound - Leather repair compound kit
- Hair dryer or heat gun
- High-grit sandpaper (220-grit or higher—optional)
- Plastic knife or similar tool (optional)
- Leather dye (optional)
- Lambswool dauber, sponge, or cloth (optional)
[Edit]References |
| How to Make Turkey Stuffing Posted: 21 Nov 2019 12:00 AM PST For many people, stuffing is the best part of the Thanksgiving meal. With infinite variation in your choice of ingredients, you can make your stuffing sweet or garlicky, meaty or light. This recipe is great on its own, but makes a great base for your own ingredients as well. [Edit]Ingredients - 2 loaves of bread (see instructions for help choosing)
- 8 tbsp (1 stick / 115 g) butter
- 20 button mushrooms
- 20 oyster mushrooms
- 4 large stalks of celery
- 2 white onions
- 3 cloves garlic
- ¼ cup (60 mL) parsley leaves (or ⅛ cup (30 mL) dried)
- ¼ cup (60 mL) sage leaves (or ⅛ cup (30 mL) dried)
- 5 cups (1.2 L) chicken stock (may not use it all)
- salt and pepper to taste
- Optional: customize by adding sausage, nuts, goat cheese, or fruit.
[Edit]Making the Stuffing - Preheat the oven. Set it to 275ºF (135ºC).
- Cube the bread. Cut the bread into cubes roughly ¾ inches (1.9 centimeters) wide. If using unsliced bread, slice lengthwise down the loaf first, then cut through the stacked slices.[1]
- A typical stuffing uses high quality sliced white bread, challah, or bagels. For more unusual flavors and textures, try sourdough or cornbread.[2] Avoid crusty, airy bread, which tends to become mush.[3]
- An electric bread knife makes this much easier.
- Toast the bread. Once the oven has preheated, arrange the bread cubes on a baking tray. Bake until dry, about ten to fifteen minutes.
- You can skip this step if the bread is already hard and stale, or if using cornbread.
- Optionally, toast a couple handfuls of pine nuts or roughly chopped walnuts on a separate tray. If using pine nuts, remove after 5–7 minutes to prevent burning.[4]
- Chop the vegetables and herbs. Dice the celery, onions, and garlic, plus the parsley and sage if using fresh leaves. Chop the mushrooms roughly, for a texture similar to ground meat.
- Sauté the mushrooms. Melt a third of the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed pot until it stops foaming, but before it browns.[5] Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 7 minutes. Wait until they start to sizzle and turn golden brown.
- You can save time by cooking the mushrooms with the other ingredients, but this method adds a stronger mushroom flavor.
- Add vegetables, herbs, and spices. Melt the remaining butter, leaving the mushrooms in the pan. Add all the vegetables and herbs you just chopped, plus thyme, salt, and pepper. Cover and let cook until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Some of the vegetables should still be crunchy, especially the celery.
- Stuffing uses more butter than regular sautéed vegetables, as it needs to be moist to stick together.
- Mix vegetables and bread, and hot chicken stock. Add the toasted bread cubes to the vegetable mixture in the same pan or a large bowl. Mix thoroughly.
- Moisten with hot chicken stock. Heat chicken stock on the stove or in the microwave until steaming. Gradually add the stock while stirring, until all the bread is moist. If you plan to cook the stuffing inside the bird, just use ¾ of your stock, so it can still absorb turkey juices.
- If the stuffing refuses to clump together, beat one or two large eggs, then stir it into the mixture. Wait until just before you stuff the turkey.
- If you have the time, you can make your own turkey stock in advance. Place the turkey giblets in a small pot of water and let simmer one hour.[6]
[Edit]Cooking the Stuffing - Decide whether to cook inside or outside the bird. Cooking the stuffing inside the turkey adds more flavor, but carries a significant risk of bacterial infection. The FDA and other food safety experts highly recommend the use of a food thermometer that can reach the center of the stuffing.[7] If you do not have one, cook the stuffing separately.
- Never stuff a turkey that you plan to grill, smoke, fry, or microwave.
- Cooking the stuffing separately also saves about 15–30 minutes of cooking time.
- Cook separate stuffing in a greased casserole dish. Cover in foil and cook for 30 minutes in a 325ºF (160ºC) oven. Uncover and cook an additional 10 minutes for a brown, crispy top.
- Optionally, sprinkle with chopped nuts, crumbled goat cheese, or parmesan when you remove the foil.
- Stuff the bird with hot stuffing only. If you've decided to stuff your bird, do so while the stuffing is still hot. If you made the stuffing in advance, keep it in the refrigerator, then warm in a large pan.
- Stuff the turkey loosely. If packed too tightly, the stuffing may become rubbery and fail to reach safe temperatures. Add about ¾ cup stuffing for every pound of turkey (360 mL per kg).[8] If you can fit your entire hand in the turkey, the stuffing has enough room to expand as it absorbs juice.[9]
- If you have extra stuffing, cut open the skin at the thigh joints and over the breast and push the stuffing under. Additional leftovers can be baked separately, as described above.
- Roast the turkey to a safe temperature. Immediately after stuffing, place the turkey in the oven and set it to 325ºF (160ºC). Before removing the turkey from the oven, check that its internal temperature has reached 165ºF (74ºC). Measure the temperature at the center of the stuffing, the thickest part of the breast, and the innermost part of the thigh and wing.[10]
- A stuffed, 8-pound (3.6 kg) turkey takes about 3 hours to roast, while a stuffed 22-pound (10 kg) turkey takes about 5 hours.[11]
- If the turkey is done cooking but the stuffing isn't, remove the stuffing and cook it in a greased casserole dish until finished.
- An instant read thermometer takes about 15 seconds to read the temperature. A normal food thermometer must be left in for 5 minutes.[12]
- Let the turkey sit 20 minutes. Remove the turkey from the oven. Wait 20 minutes before carving or removing the stuffing. During this time, the turkey will finish cooking, and the juices will redistribute throughout the meat for a more tender meal.
- If you like meat in your stuffing, cook the meat completely before combining with other ingredients. Rich, strong-flavored meats such as sausage meat or turkey liver are good options.
- For a Christmas-y stuffing, add a pinch of nutmeg, a pinch of cloves, and two finely chopped green apples. Leave out the garlic and half the stock.
- You can substitute any combination of vegetables, as long as at least one is crunchy. Shallots, leek, carrots, fennel, and bell peppers are other common options.[13]
[Edit]Warnings - Even if you plan to cook stuffing inside a juicy turkey, you still need to moisten it. Dry stuffing has a higher risk of bacterial infection.[14]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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