| How to Break in Your Doc Martens Posted: 02 Sep 2019 05:00 PM PDT From factory and harbor workers to punks and goth rockers, Doc Martens have been a popular shoe choice since 1945. Comfortable and sturdy once broken in, they last forever and can be buffed to a mirror shine even after several years of wear. The only problem is that they can be cast-iron to break in, resulting in blisters, bruises, and lots of pain. By finding the right fit and starting slow with wearing your boots around the house for a couple of hours a day, you can minimize the pain it takes to break in these classic boots. [Edit]Breaking in Doc Martens Traditionally - Buy Doc Martens in the right size. Doc Martens tend to run true to size, but try them on anyway to make sure you buy the right size. Boots in the right size should feel tight, but not uncomfortable.[1]
- If the shoe feels immediately uncomfortable when you try it on, especially in the width, it is too small.
- Doc Martens only come in whole sizes. The official website recommends sizing down if you normally take a half size.[2]
- Put on a thick pair of socks and pull on the laced-up boots. Wearing thick socks with Doc Martens will cause them to widen out and break in a little faster. They also help protect your feet from blisters. Put the laces back in your boots and tie them tightly.[3]
- The lining of Doc Martens can cause damage to your feet through friction. Thick socks help reduce friction and minimize pain.
- Walk around for 5-10 minutes at home then take the boots off. Start with wearing your Doc Martens around home for short periods of time. The soles of the boots will be very stiff, and the leather will feel tight. Once the boots start to hurt, take them off.[4]
- Don't try to wear your boots for a long period of time or on a long walk the first time you wear them.
- Protect the places where you felt pain. Most often, people experience pain in the heel of the shoe. Note any areas where you see blisters or redness. Cover those areas with bandages or moleskin.[5]
- Moleskin is a little thicker than a bandage and can stay on better. Find moleskin at a pharmacy or online.
- Wear your boots for 1-2 hour intervals at home. Once you have protected your blisters, you can start wearing your Doc Martens around the house for slightly longer periods of time. Take them off once they start to hurt.[6]
- Repeat the process for several weeks. Keep wearing your Doc Martens around your home for short periods of time every day. If you feel comfortable, you can increase the amount of time you wear them each time or wear your Doc Martens outside on short walks. You can also reapply the balm up to once a week.[7]
- Doc Martens can take up to 3-6 weeks to fully break in. Vegan Doc Martens don't need to be broken in at all.[8]
[Edit]Speeding up the Process - Take out the laces and rub the leather with balm. Doc Martens are made out of stiff, full-grain leather. The official website recommends using Doc Martens Wonder Balsam to clean and protect the leather and to help make it softer. The Wonder Balsam is a mix of lanolin, beeswax, and coconut oil, so you can also look for an off-brand product or create your own blend.[9]
- Beeswax is an important factor in keeping the shoes water-resistant, so look for it as an ingredient if you are buying a different balm or making your own.
- Remove the insole to make the breaking-in process less painful. The inner lining of Doc Martens is made of an abrasive material that rubs against the foot and creates blisters. Removing the insole takes some of the friction away and helps prevent blisters.[10]
- It's still best to wear thick socks to prevent blisters around the ankle.
- Wrap the shoes in a towel and hit the heel with a hammer. Wrapping the shoes first will help protect them from getting damaged by the hammer. Hammer around the heel and the sole of the shoe for 15-20 minutes.[11]
- Hammering your Doc Martens can diminish the smoothness of the new leather.
- Stuff your Doc Martens tightly with newspaper. Pack as much newspaper as you can tightly into the toes of your boots. Remove the laces to make the shoes easier to stuff. This will stretch out the toe box of your Doc Martens.[12]
- You can alternate stuffing your shoes with newspaper and wearing them around the house with thick socks to double up on breaking in methods.
- You can also look for a boot stretcher online or at a shoe store to get a similar effect.
- Aim a hairdryer at the tightest part of your boots. Wearing your Doc Martens with thick socks. Apply a thin coat of Wonder Balsam on the boot, then heat the boot with the low setting on a hairdryer for 5-10 minutes to melt down the oils and help them absorb into the leather quickly. Wear the boots until they are cool.[13]
- Don't use the high heat setting, as you can scald your leather and promote cracking and splitting.
- Walk around, stand on your toes and bend down a lot to help develop the creases in the shoes that are signs that they are softening. Working at a computer, as part of your normal daily routine, may not be enough activity to break in your shoes.
- The first time you wear your Doc Martens out for the day, bring another pair of shoes with you in case you start to get blisters.
- Try doing calf raises, rolling all the way back to your heel and then to your toes.
[Edit]Warnings - If you develop foot blisters, it is best to wait until they have healed before resuming the process of breaking in your shoes.
- Any shoe polish should be wax or oil-based and serves no functional purpose, only aesthetic. It does not protect or soften your leather, only add color or shine.
- Don't put your boots in the freezer, with or without bags of water in them.
- Don't put your boots in the oven.
- Don't use water to break in the boots.
- Don't wear two pairs of socks at once whilst wearing any pair of shoes, this can actually increase the chance of blistering due to the layers creating friction
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Doc Martens Wonder Balsam
- Thick socks or several socks
- Hammer (optional)
- Newspaper (optional)
- A hairdryer with a low/medium setting (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Fix Cat Scratches in Leather Posted: 02 Sep 2019 09:00 AM PDT There's nothing more annoying than your cat deciding to use your leather furniture as a scratching post. While cat scratches are an eyesore, they don't have to be a permanent decoration of your leather goods. With specific leather supplies, you can make your leather look completely unscathed. [Edit]Conditioning and Sanding the Scratched Area - Clean off the surface with a leather wipe. The leather needs to be as clean as possible before you repair it. Clear off any lingering dust or dirt with a leather cleaning wipe. Use small, circular motions to clean the leather surface thoroughly.[1]
- If you don't have any leather wipes on hand, you can buy some at a home improvement store or online.
- Remove any stray fibers with scissors or a lighter. Use a pair of scissors to snip off any loose strands from the leather.[2] You can also use a lighter on the scratched area, as the heat of the flame will loosen the punctured and scratched leather.[3]
- Moisten the area with leather conditioner. Start by dampening the scratched leather surface with a small amount of leather conditioner. You can find leather conditioner at some drug stores or online.[4]
- The conditioner prepares the leather for the glue and filler that will go on top of
- If you are working with aniline leather, be sure to use distilled water.[5]
- Apply thin layers of leather glue to the affected area. Pour a coin-sized amount of glue to the sponge. Then, use a sponge to spread a thin layer of glue onto the leather. For the best results, apply at least 7 layers of glue to the scratched leather.[6]
- Let each layer of glue dry before you apply another one.
- Leather glue reconnects the punctured portions of the leather.[7]
- Sand down the leather after the glue has dried. Using soft sandpaper (around 1200 grit), sand down the glue with smooth and circular strokes. Make the surface as smooth as possible so that the leather filler won't look lumpy when you apply it.[8]
- Make sure to wipe down any leftover dust from the sandpaper before continuing.
[Edit]Repairing the Leather - Use a palette knife to apply leather filler. Dip a plastic palette knife into the leather filler and paint a thin layer onto the glued leather. Make this layer as smooth as possible, so that the leather doesn't look messy. Feel free to add another layer of filler if you think your leather needs it.[9]
- Make sure the first layer of filler has dried for at least 20 minutes before adding any more.
- Purchase a palette knife at a home improvement store if you don't have one on hand.
- You can use a spatula instead of a palette knife.[10]
- Wait for the filler to dry. Let the leather air dry in your work area before proceeding. Depending on the type of filler you're using, you may have to wait at least several hours before it is totally dry.[11]
- If you're working in a room or area with a lot of humidity, it may take longer for the leather filler to dry.[12]
- Smooth the filler with sandpaper. Use another piece of gentle (1200 grit) sandpaper to smooth and buff out any inconsistencies on the filler's surface. This helps to keep the surface of your leather as smooth as possible, so the finished repair looks natural and authentic.[13]
- Wipe any excess dirt and dust from the filled area. Before you start to recolor anything, use a moist wipe or a liquid cleaning product specific to leather to clean and polish off the surface. There may be some sandpaper grit leftover on the surface of the filler. [14]
- Leather cleaner can be found at generic stores that sell cleaning supplies or at home improvement stores.
- If you don't have any leather cleaner on hand, a baby wipe can work in a pinch.[15]
[Edit]Recoloring the Surface - Sponge a colorant onto the filled spot. Pour a coin-sized amount of the solution on a sponge. Use small, delicate motions to sponge the colorant over the dried filler. You can find leather colorant at most home improvement stores.[16]
- Let the colorant dry completely. Before you continue on with any more layers of colorant and sealant, make sure that the first layer of colorant has dried completely.[17]
- To speed up the drying process, use a hair dryer at a low heat setting.[18]
- Spray on additional colorant to the treated area. Use a spray colorant to apply another layer of color to enhance the initial layer of colorant. [19] If your leather is multiple colors, use different shades of colorant to reach your desired shade.[20] Apply at least 4-5 thin layers of spray-on colorant to get a full, vibrant color on your treated leather area.[21]
- Make sure each layer is dry before you add another.[22]
- Allow the leather to fully dry. To avoid the colorant from smearing along the leather's surface, make sure that it has dried completely. Thankfully, thin layers don't take as long to dry. This could take around half an hour or more.[23]
- Check the directions on your colorant bottle to find a specific estimate on how long it will take to dry.
- Rub a sealant into the leather with a sponge. Use a new sponge to paint at least 3 layers of sealant onto the leather. Make sure that each layer is dry before you add more sealant. The sealant will keep the leather colorant vibrant and protected.[24]
- Double check your sealant's packaging to get a rough estimate on the drying time.
- Apply a leather finishing product after the sealant dries. Place a coin-sized amount of leather finishing product on the sponge before rubbing it on top of the leather. Use short, circular motions to get an even finish. Try to have at least 4 thin coats of finish to get an adequate protection layer.[25]
- The leather finishing product provides another layer protection.
- Ensure that each layer of finish has dried before you add another one.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Leather wipes
- Scissors
- Lighter
- Distilled water (optional)
- Leather conditioner
- Leather glue
- Fine grit sandpaper
- Palette knife
- Spatula (optional)
- Leather filler
- Leather cleaner
- Wet wipes (optional)
- Leather colorant
- Spray-on colorant
- Leather sealant
- Leather finishing product
- Sponges
- Spray-on cat pheromones may help to prevent your cat from scratching your leather furniture in the future.[26]
- Purchase a leather repair kit online if you don't want to search for each individual product at the store. An online marketplace should carry them.
[Edit]References |
| How to Use a Torque Wrench Posted: 02 Sep 2019 01:00 AM PDT A torque wrench is a special tool designed to accurately tighten nuts and bolts to specific levels. It is almost universally used to work on cars and bikes, and it can only be used to tighten something. Torque wrenches are adjusted by hand, so you don't need any other tools to operate one. To use a torque wrench, adjust the handle and set it to a specific level of torque. Use the tightener on the end of the handle to lock it in place. Then, fit it over the socket, nut, or bolt and turn it clockwise to tighten it. When you're done, turn the settings on the handle back to 0 and store it somewhere safe. Get your torque wrench calibrated at least once a year to ensure that the hash marks remain accurate. [Edit]Adjusting the Torque Wrench - Loosen the tightener at the end of the wrench's handle. Look at the end of your wrench's handle to find the tightener that locks the settings in place. It is usually a plastic or metal cap that is stuck into the end of your wrench. Often, it is a different color than the rest of your wrench as well. Twist it counterclockwise by hand to loosen the piece so that you can change the wrench's settings.[1]
- You don't need to take it off of your wrench, just loosen it until you don't feel a ton of resistance.
- Find and identify the torque measurements on your wrench. Inspect the area near your handle to find the hash marks for the torque setting. There will be 1 set of larger numbers on the body of the wrench and 1 set of smaller numbers on the handle. The smaller numbers are the smaller digits, while the larger numbers are the larger units.[2]
- Torque is measured in foot-pounds or meter-kilograms (ft-lb or m-kg). Your torque wrench will list 2 sets of numbers on the wrench's hash marks. The lower number is the measurement in foot-pounds. The larger number is the measurement in meter-kilograms.
- The vertical location of the edge of the handle determines the baseline while the rotation of the handle determines the smaller digits. There is a center line on the wrench to show where the handle is set.
- For example, if the edge of the handle is on the hash mark for 100, and the smaller number on the handle itself is turned to 5, the torque setting for the wrench is 105 ft-lb (1397 m-kg).
- Turn the dial to raise or lower the torque setting on the wrench. With the tightener loosened, brace the body of the wrench with your nondominant hand. Turn the handle clockwise to raise it, or counterclockwise to lower it. Once you reach the desired hash mark, stop turning the handle.[3]
- If you need to reach a specific number, raise the handle to the hash mark that is within 5 ft-lb (200 m-kg) of your number. So if you know you need to reach 140 ft-lb (1860 m-kg), raise the handle to the hash mark between 135-145 ft-lb (1795-1928 m-kg).
- Some torque wrench handles are slide up and down instead of twisting into place.
- Twist the dial on the handle to make minor adjustments. Once you're close to the desired number, turn your attention from the height of the handle to the dial itself. Follow the readings as you turn the handle slowly. As you turn clockwise, the number goes up. As you turn counterclockwise, the number goes down.[4]
- There are a few negative numbers after 0 so that you can move down a little as well.
- On some wrenches, the dial moves independently of the handle and you can twist it by turning the dial, not the handle.
- Add the smaller digit on the handle to the number on the larger hash mark to determine total torque. Once you've adjusted the handle's height and twisted the dial, calculate your total torque to ensure that it's accurately adjusted by adding the numbers together. Take the hash mark on your handle and add the number marked on the dial to get your torque. So if the dial reads 4, and the handle reads 50, your total torque is 54 ft-lb (718 m-kg).[5]
- You add the negative numbers as well. For example, if your hash mark is 120 and the dial is -2, you add 120 to -2 to get 118 ft-lb (1569 m-kg).
- Screw the tightener back into the end of the wrench by hand to lock it. To lock a torque setting into the wrench, flip it back over to the handle. Brace the wrench in your nondominant hand to keep it still. Twist the tightener clockwise by hand until it won't move any more. This will lock the handle in place.[6]
- Once you lock the tightener, you cannot adjust your torque setting.
[Edit]Tightening Nuts and Bolts - Put your socket on the head of your wrench. To use your torque wrench, start by sliding a socket that matches your nut or bolt into the head of your torque wrench. If you have an extender or adaptor that you're using, you can slide that into the opening at the head instead.[7]
- Torque wrenches come in different sizes, but the sockets are almost always interchangeable. Torque wrenches are expensive, so they rarely come in a single size.
- Turn the nut or bolt by hand until it catches the threading on the screw. Take the nut or bolt that you're going to tighten and place it over the threading for the screw or opening on your vehicle by hand. Turn the vehicle's nut or bolt clockwise with your fingers until the threading catches the threading on the screw. Turn the nut or bolt until it won't turn by hand anymore.[8]
- Fit the socket on top of the nut or bolt that you're tightening. With the nut or bolt set on the threading, hold the handle of the torque wrench in your nondominant hand. Use your dominant hand to guide the socket, adaptor, or extender on to the nut or bolt. Slide the wrench over the nut or bolt until the 2 pieces are flush.[9]
- Turn the handle clockwise to tighten the nut or bolt. Rotate the handle clockwise to begin tightening the nut or bolt. Almost all torque wrenches have automatic return functions so you don't need to reposition them on the nut or bolt. For this type of wrench, simply move it counterclockwise to reset it. If you have a manual wrench, reposition it on the nut or bolt to continue torquing it down.[10]
- If you hear a clicking or switching noise when you return the handle counterclockwise, you have an automatically-returning torque wrench.
- Stop turning the wrench when it starts clicking or stops moving. If your automatic wrench clicks when you're returning it, keep tightening the nut or bolt. If it starts clicking when you turn it clockwise though, stop tightening the nut or bolt. The clicking noise while tightening indicates that you have reached your desired torque level. On a manual wrench, stop turning it when you feel the wrench resisting.[11]
- So if you have the handle adjusted to 100 ft-lb (1330 m-kg) of torque, the bolt is tightened to that level the moment it starts clicking when you try to tighten it.
- Manual wrenches will simply stop moving after the nut or bolt has been turned to the intended level of torque.
[Edit]Maintaining Your Wrench - Dial the wrench back to zero when you're done using it. When you're done using the wrench, turn both dial settings on the handle back to 0. Leaving the dial turned to a torque setting higher than 0 can throw the calibration off over time.[12]
- Turning the wrench to negative numbers is equally as bad for your wrench.
- Clean dirty or rusty nuts or bolts before loosening them. One of the easiest ways to damage your wrench is to allow rust and grime buildup inside your sockets. This makes it harder for your torque wrench to get an adequate grip on the socket and can cause a lot of problems over time. Clean each bolt or nut that you plan on tightening with a towel or rag before attaching your wrench.[13]
- Torque wrenches aren't meant to be lubricated. Get any grease or lubricant off of your bolt or nut by using a degreaser before attaching a socket.
- Get your wrench calibrated at least once a year. Unless you have years of experience working on cars, it's best to have a mechanic or torque wrench specialist calibrate your torque wrench for you. When using your torque wrench, a discrepancy will naturally develop between the measurements on your handle and the actual torque of the wrench. Fix this problem and prevent dangerous scenarios by getting your wrench calibrated once a year.[14]
- Calibration usually costs between $25-75 USD.
- You cannot loosen nuts or bolts with a torque wrench. If you're disassembling something, this isn't the right tool for the job.
- Torque wrenches are simple tools, but they can be kind of expensive. The higher-end your torque wrench is, the more accurate the calibration will usually be.
[Edit]Warnings - Dropping your wrench can throw the calibration off. Carry it with both hands when you're walking around the garage to ensure that you don't drop it.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
No comments:
Post a Comment