| How to Clean Sneakers Posted: 25 Mar 2019 05:00 PM PDT Cleaning your sneakers keeps them smelling fresh, prolongs their life, and doesn't take very long to do. Clean your shoes by hand to give them a little more TLC, or put them into the washing machine for a primarily hands-off approach. You can even tackle cleaning the soles of your shoes to spruce them up without having to clean the entire thing. Whichever method you choose, you'll end up with clean shoes that look (and smell) a lot better! EditUsing the Washing Machine - Check the label to make sure it's safe to machine wash your shoes. Most sneakers can be cleaned in the washing machine, but it's always a good idea to double-check beforehand. If the label says "hand wash only," you may want to consider cleaning the shoes by hand. If your shoes don't have a label, search the brand online to get cleaning recommendations.[1]
- If your shoes have any leather or suede, it is not a good idea to machine wash them, as the water can damage those parts of the shoes.
- Use a scrub brush to brush away any visible clumps of dirt. Preferably, do this over a trash can or outside to keep the dirt from getting all over your floor. If the dirt is wet, let it dry completely first. Dry dirt brushes away more easily than wet dirt does.[2]
- Removing as much dirt as possible before washing the shoes will help them get cleaner in the washing machine.
- Remove the laces and treat dirty sections with laundry detergent. Check them out to see if there are any areas that are particularly dirty. If so, take a little bit of laundry detergent and use your fingers to rub it into the shoelaces. This pretreating will help the dirt come out more easily.[3]
- Put the laces into their own small mesh bag to keep them from wrapping around other items when they're in the wash.
- Put the shoes into a mesh bag and wash them along with towels. If you don't have mesh laundry bags, you can buy them online or at department stores for about $10. Put the bag with your shoes in it, the one with the laces, and a load of towels into the washing machine.[4]
- Washing the shoes along with towels keeps the shoes from banging around in the washing machine, which could potentially damage your shoes or the machine itself.
- Run a gentle cycle with cool water. Use the same amount of detergent you normally would, and avoid using hot water. Choose the gentle cycle if you have the option.[5]
- Don't overdo it on the detergent. Excess detergent can cause soap residue to build up on your shoes, making them stiff and possibly even staining them.
- Let the pair of shoes air dry. You can put them in front of a dehumidifier, a fan, or an open window, but avoid putting them in front of any type of heat source or into the dryer. If the shoes have insoles, take them out and let them dry separately to speed up the process.[6]
- You might be tempted to toss your sneakers into the dryer so you can wear them sooner, but doing so could ruin the shape of your shoes. The high heat could warp plastic or synthetic fibers.
- To help the shoes keep their shape, stuff the insides with crumpled newspaper.
- Reassemble the shoes once everything is completely dry. It should take anywhere from 8 to 12 hours for your shoes to dry, just depending on whether or not you do anything else to speed up the process. Once they're dry, put the insoles back in place and re-lace them.[7]
- If your shoes still look really dirty, you may need to treat the soles separately or perhaps try putting them through the laundry again. If you can't get them clean, it may be time to invest in a new pair of sneakers.
EditWashing Sneakers by Hand - Remove the laces from your shoes. As you take out the laces, pay attention to their condition—are they grungy? Are they fraying? If they're just dirty, you'll be able to clean them, but if they're fraying and threadbare, it may be time to buy a new pair.[8]
- If you do need to buy new laces, measure your current ones to see what length they are. That way, you'll be sure to purchase replacements that are long enough for your shoes.
- Rub laundry detergent into the stained areas of the laces. For this purpose, it's helpful to pour a small amount of laundry detergent into a bowl; should do. Dip your finger into the laundry detergent, and then rub it into grungy sections of your shoelaces. Repeat this step until both laces have been treated.[9]
- Rubbing the laundry detergent into the laces causes the soap to start reacting with and breaking down the ground-in dirt.
- Rinse the laces with warm water and pat them dry with a clean towel. Take your shoelaces to the sink, and turn the water on to warm. Rinse each shoelace, taking time to rub along the entire length to remove all the dirt and soap. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear and your laces are clean. Dry them off with a clean towel and set them to the side.[10]
- If your laces are particularly dirty, you could also fill your sink with warm water and leave the shoelaces to soak for 10 to 15 minutes while you clean the rest of your shoes.
- Clean the eyelets with a toothbrush and a little bit of laundry detergent. The eyelets are the little holes that the shoelaces wind through. Continue using the small bowl of laundry detergent from earlier, and dip a clean toothbrush into it. Scrub the eyelets with the toothbrush to remove any built-up dirt or grime, then wipe them clean with a damp sponge.[11]
- When rinsing away the laundry detergent, avoid using an overly-wet sponge. Wet the sponge then wring it out so it's not dripping wet. This'll keep the suds from spreading too far and your shoes won't get over-saturated.
- Dislodge dry dirt with a small scrub brush. Pick up your shoes and examine them. If there are dry clumps of dirt or grass, brush them away with a small scrub brush. Do this over a trashcan or outside to keep the dirt from getting all over your floor.[12]
- Don't try to brush away dirt that is still wet. Let it dry completely first—it'll be much easier to remove once it's dry.
- If there are stuck pebbles, use a pair of tweezers to scrape them out.
- Mix together of laundry detergent and of water. Depending on how much laundry detergent is left in your bowl after cleaning the shoelaces and eyelets, you may not need to add more. Stir the water and laundry detergent together until the mixture is sudsy.[13]
- It doesn't matter if you use warm or cold water. The laundry detergent will dissolve easily in either one.
- Wet a toothbrush in the mixture and scrub the entirety of the shoes. You can use the same toothbrush you used to clean the eyelets, or you could even use the small scrub brush from earlier. Whatever you choose to use, dip it into the laundry detergent and water mixture, and then proceed to scrub the entire body of each shoe. Clean the body of the shoe, the tongue, the soles, and even the inside of the shoe. Use a circular motion to dislodge ground-in dirt.[14]
- Re-wet the toothbrush as many times as you need to while you clean.
- Don't forget that insole! Remove it and clean it the same way you did the exterior of the shoe. If it still isn't coming clean, you can always buy replacement insoles.[15]
- Wipe down the shoes with a clean, damp sponge. After you've scrubbed the shoes, dampen a sponge and then wring it out so it's not dripping wet. Wipe away all the soap residue and dirt, rinsing the sponge out as often as you need to.[16]
- Don't forget to wipe down the insides and the bottoms of the shoes, too.
- Let the shoes dry naturally and then lace them back up. Set the shoes to the side on a dry towel. Leave them to air dry, which should take anywhere from 8 to 12 hours. You can speed up the drying process by putting the shoes in front of a fan or an open window, but don't put them in front of any kind of heat source because the heat could warp the shoes or even shrink them. Once they're dry, replace the insoles and re-lace the shoes.[17]
- If your shoes were really stinky, sprinkle some baking soda over the insides while they dry overnight. In the morning, knock out the excess baking soda before putting the shoes on.[18]
EditCleaning White Soles - Mix together equal parts of baking soda and laundry detergent. Since you don't need too much of either ingredient, start off with 2 tablespoons (30 grams) of baking soda and of laundry detergent. Stir them together to create a paste.[19]
- This method works great when you simply need to spruce up the soles of your shoes but don't need to clean the rest of them.
- Apply the mixture to the soles with a clean toothbrush. Take a toothbrush and dip it into the baking soda and laundry detergent. Scrub it into the soles of the shoes, taking care to get all the sides and the bottoms of the shoes, too.[20]
- Don't be afraid to really pile the paste onto the soles. You can always make more if you run out, and it won't hurt anything if you use a lot.
- Wet a sponge with cold water and wipe away the baking soda mixture. Once you've scrubbed in the paste, take a sponge and saturate it with cold water. Wring it out so it's not dripping wet, and then start to wipe away the paste from the soles. Scrub away at any areas that are still dirty, and rinse out the sponge as often as you need to.[21]
- Use a sponge rather than running the shoes under a stream of water. The sponge will keep the rest of the shoe from getting wet, which means you won't have to wait for them to dry after you've cleaned them.
- Wipe the soles down with a dry towel. Don't forget to dry the bottoms, too, so that you don't slip if decide to wear them right away. Enjoy your clean shoes![22]
- If you notice any sections that are still dirty, you may want to apply a second coat of the baking soda paste to see if that helps lift the remaining dirt.
- When in doubt, check the shoe manufacturer's website to see how they recommend cleaning their shoes.[23]
- When in a pinch, use a white eraser to rub off smudges.[24]
- Avoid putting your shoes in the dryer or near a heat source, as the high temperatures can warp the shape of the shoes.[25]
EditThings You'll Need EditUsing the Washing Machine - Laundry detergent
- Scrub brush
- Mesh bag (optional)
- Newspaper (optional)
EditWashing Sneakers by Hand - Laundry detergent
- Towels
- Toothbrush
- Scrub brush
- Sponge
- Small bowl
- Measuring cups and spoons
- Baking soda (optional)
EditCleaning White Soles - Small bowl
- Measuring spoons
- Baking soda
- Laundry detergent
- Toothbrush
- Sponge
- Towel
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Dye Cotton Yarn Posted: 25 Mar 2019 09:00 AM PDT Dyeing yarn is easy, but how you prepare the dye depends on what sort of fiber the yarn is made from: acrylic, animal, or plant. Because cotton yarn is plant-based, you should prepare the dye the same way you would prepare dye for tie dyeing a t-shirt. Once you wrap the yarn and rinse it, you can dye it any color you want. EditPreparing the Yarn - Choose white, 100% cotton yarn. White will be the best, because it will give you the brightest results. If you want a more dusty, muted color, however, you could try gray instead. Most importantly, make sure that the yarn is made from 100% cotton. Most fabric, yarn, and craft stores will have a special section in their yarn aisle for cotton yarn.
- Some cotton yarn is mercerized and has a shiny finish. You can still dye this type of yarn, but be aware that it may take the dye differently from other types of cotton yarn.[1]
- Do not get yarn made from mixed materials, such as 50% cotton and 50% acrylic, or it may not dye evenly.
- Wind your yarn into a skein. Find the end of your yarn, and begin wrapping it around your hand and elbow; you can also wrap it around the back of a chair instead. Keep wrapping the yarn until you have used up the entire ball.[2]
- Wrap the yarn tight enough so that it doesn't slide off, but loose enough so that it doesn't stretch or feel uncomfortable.
- Do not dye your yarn while it is still in a ball, or it won't dye evenly.
- If your yarn came twisted like a rope, simply untwist the "rope" until you have a loop of yarn instead.
- Slip the yarn off your arm and secure it loosely with string. Slip the wrapped yarn off of your arm and set it down on a flat surface. Cut 6 pieces of string, then tie them loosely around the looped yarn to hold the strands together. Work your way around the loop; do not close the loop.[3]
- If you want a tie dye effect, then tie the strings tighter.
- Soak the yarn for 20 minutes in warm water with some dish soap. Fill a pot or basin with enough warm water to cover your yarn. Add 1 or 2 pumps of liquid dish soap and stir to combine. Add your yarn into the water, and press down on it to submerge it. Leave it there for 20 minutes.[4]
- Yarn often contains coatings, such as wax, which can prevent the dye from adhering.
- Don't be alarmed if the water changes color to brown. This is simply the residue from the yarn.[5]
- Rinse the yarn until the water runs clear. Lift the yarn out of the pot with a pair of tongs. Rinse the yarn under cool, running water to remove any soap and residue. Keep rinsing the yarn until the water runs clear.
- Wiggle your fingers through the strands to help separate them. This will ensure that the fresh water reaches them too.
- Do not use the same tongs you'd use for cooking. Reserve these tongs only for dyeing.
- Let the yarn dry until it is no longer dripping. Once the water runs clear, gently squeeze the excess water from the yarn. Spread the yarn out on a clean towel and leave it there until it dries partway. You want the yarn to still be somewhat damp.
EditPreparing the Dye - Choose fabric dye meant for cotton fabric. Plain old fabric dye from the fabric store or craft store (i.e. RIT dye) will work the best. It is the same stuff you'd use on t-shirts and other cotton garments.
- Do not use dye made for wool or synthetic materials. It won't react the same way to cotton yarn.
- Protect your work space, skin, and clothing. Even through you are working with fabric dye, it can still stain other things, such as counters. Cover your counter with newspaper or a plastic bag. Put an apron or clothing you won't mind accidentally staining. Lastly, pull on a pair of plastic gloves.
- Bring a pot of water to a simmer. Fill your pot with enough water to completely cover the yarn. Bring the water to a simmer over low to medium-low heat. Do not let the water boil.[6]
- A crockpot would be an even better idea because the heat is slow and steady.[7]
- Do not use the same crockpot or cooking pot that you'd use for food. Reserve these pots for dyeing and crafts only.
- Fill your pot with water and dye. How much water and dye you use depends on the brand of the dye and how much yarn you are dyeing. In most cases, you will need 3 quarts (2.8 L) of water and 1/2 cup (120mL) of dye. Refer to the label on the dye for more specific amounts.[8]
- Use half the dye you need for a lighter shade. For a darker shade, you may have to add a drop of a darker dye color.
- Most dye proportions are based on weight. Check the label that came with your yarn to find out how much you have.
- Add some salt and dish soap. Again, how much salt and dish soap you use depends on how much water and yarn you used. In most cases, you will need 1/2 cup (150 g) of salt for every 3 quarts (2.8 L) of water. Add 1 squirt of liquid dish soap, and stir.[9]
- Bring the water to a simmer. Turn the heat up on the stove to low or medium-low. Allow the water to come to a simmer. Do not let it boil.[10]
- If you are using a crockpot, turn the heat up to high.
EditDyeing the Yarn - Submerge the yarn in the dye bath. Place the yarn into the water. Press it down with a metal spoon, tongs, or wooden chopsticks. Make sure that the yarn is submerged as much as possible.
- Do not reuse the spoon, tongs, or chopsticks for cooking. Reserve them for arts and crafts.
- If you are using chopsticks, be aware that this will permanently stain them. Consider using disposable ones instead.
- Allow the yarn to dye for 30 minutes, stirring it occasionally. Parts of the yarn will float to the surface, so you'll want to push them down--otherwise, they won't dye evenly. Every so often, use your metal spoon, tongs, or chopsticks to gently shift the yarn around. A simple prod and stir is all you need.[11]
- Do not stir the yarn like you'd stir soup or cake batter, or you'll risk tangling the yarn.
- If you are using a crockpot, cover the pot with a lid, and let it cook. You will still need to stir the yarn.[12]
- Take the yarn out and rinse it until the water runs clear. Lift the yarn out with a pair of metal tongs. Rinse the yarn under warm, running water. Keep rinsing the yarn until the water runs clear, slowly lowering the temperature as you do so.[13]
- Wiggle the strands between your fingers so ensure that the fresh water reaches them.
- Squeeze the yarn in a towel, then set it out to dry. Once the water runs clear, squeeze the excess water from the yarn. Place the yarn on top of an old towel, close to the end. Wrap the towel around the yarn into a tight bundle, then press down on it to soak up any excess water. Unwrap the yarn, then leave it on the towel to dry.[14]
- Roll the yarn into a ball. Cut the pieces of string holding the yarn together first. Wrap the yarn around your fingers 25 to 50 times, then slide it off. Wrap the yarn across the loop another 25 to 50 times. Continue wrapping it, switching direction often: top-to-bottom, side-to-side, and diagonally.[15]
- Don't be afraid to mix dye colors to create new ones. Many dye companies post color combinations on their websites.
- Try different dyeing techniques, such as speckle.
- You can use tie dye kits to tie dye yarn multiple colors.[16]
- Do not reuse any pots or utensils for cooking. Reserve these for dyeing and crafts.
EditThings You'll Need - Cotton yarn
- Rubber gloves
- Pot or basin
- Water
- Dish soap
- Fabric dye
- Salt
- Old towels
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Use Voodoo Floss Posted: 25 Mar 2019 01:00 AM PDT Voodoo floss is a compression band that you can use to increase mobility and flexibility in your body. You can also use it to prepare your body for a workout. Wrap the band at your hip to increase hip mobility and stretch your sore hips. You can also use the band on your feet and ankles to increase flexibility and prepare for a run. Using the band on your wrist, forearms, and knees can help relieve pain when working with your hands or running. EditUsing it for Hip Mobility - Start the voodoo floss just below your hip. Place the end of the floss on top of your thigh, then wrap the floss once around. You shouldn't be wrapping it as tightly as possible – use about half of the stretch/tension available in the band.[1]
- Continue wrapping the band down your thigh. Start overlapping the band as you continue to wrap it around your thigh. You should use an overlap of about . If you start to feel any tingling or pain, you're wrapping too tight.[2]
- Tuck the end of the band under the previous strip. Once you get to the end of floss, you'll need to secure it so the band doesn't come loose. Take about of the end of the band and pull it up and then tuck it under the previous strip.[3]
- Swing your flossed leg backward and forward. Use the leg that's not wrapped for balance, standing with your knee slightly bent. Then start gently swinging the leg that's wrapped from the hip. You should feel your hip extending, particularly when you swing forward. Repeat this motion for 15 to 20 reps.[4]
- Swing your flossed leg side to side. Stand so the foot of your anchor leg is slightly behind your hips. Then swing your flossed leg side to side in front of your anchor leg. Your leg should make a 30 to 45-degree angle as it swings out. Repeat this for 30 seconds.[5]
- Perform 5 to 10 squats. Stand with your legs just more than shoulder-width apart. Your feet should be pointing slightly away from center. Then squat so that your knees extend just over your feet and your butt almost touches the floor. Perform 5 to 10 squats, squatting as deeply as you can.[6]
- Perform a lateral lunge. Stand with your legs more than shoulder-width apart. Then lunge to the side of the flossed leg. Your feet shouldn't move – the lunge movement should come from your hips. Perform 5 to 10 reps.[7]
- Remove the band. You shouldn't use the voodoo floss for longer than 2 minutes at a time. Once you've finished your set, remove the band immediately.
- Repeat the exercises using the voodoo floss on your other hip. If you're looking to increase mobility in both of your hips, wrap your other hip in the floss. Then perform each of the exercises on that hip.
EditIncreasing Ankle Mobility - Start in a seated position. It's easiest to wrap your foot and ankle while you're seated. You can sit on a chair or workout bench. Then cross the leg you're wrapping over the opposite leg. You should rest your leg just above the ankle, so you can get to the ankle to wrap it.[8]
- Begin wrapping at the arch of your foot. Place the end of the floss on the top of your foot at your arch. Then wrap the floss around your foot about 3 times, slowly moving back toward your heel.
- Make sure your foot stays in a neutral position as you wrap your foot and ankle.
- Skip over your heel and begin wrapping your ankle. Once you reach your heel, let a little extra floss through your hands and begin wrapping the ankle.
- You'll need to skip your heel to make sure you still have enough range of motion to work out your ankle.
- Wrap the floss the rest of the way up your leg. Once you've wrapped your ankle, continue wrapping the floss up your calf. You should still be using about 50% tension. Once you come to the end of the floss, tuck the end under the previous strip.[9]
- Flex and rotate your ankle while seated. Once your foot is wrapped, extend your leg out so your foot is off the ground but your knee is still slightly bent. Flex your foot back and then point it forward. Then you can rotate your ankle, moving it both clockwise and counterclockwise. Flex and rotate your ankle for about 1 minute to warm up the tissue.[10]
- Perform toe raises. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart. Then slowly lift your heels off the ground, bearing the weight of your body on your toes. As soon as you reach the top of your range of motion, slowly lower your heels back to the ground. Then raise them off the ground again. Do this for 20 seconds.[11]
- Perform dorsiflexion. Once you've done toe raises for 20 seconds, add a dorsiflexion to the end. When you lower your heels back down, bend slightly at the knee and lower your body until your knees are just over your feet. Then raise your body back up, take the weight off your heels, and do a toe raise. Repeat this whole process for about 20 seconds.[12]
- Hop for a few seconds. Once you've flexed and stretched your ankles, hop on both feet, bringing them just off the floor. This will warm up the tissue well if you're planning on going for a run after.[13]
- Remove the band. Once you've finished your exercises, remove the band. You don't want to have it on for longer than 2 minutes at a time. If you'd like to increase mobility in both of your ankles, wrap the other ankle and repeat all of the exercises.[14]
EditFlossing Your Wrists and Forearms - Hold the band in your hand and begin wrapping your wrist. Holding the end of the band in the hand you want to wrap. Then use 50 to 75 percent tension and begin wrapping your wrist, overlapping the band slightly.
- Wrap the floss up to your elbow and then back down. Overlap the floss slightly as you wrap it up your arm from the wrist. Once you reach about from your elbow, reverse direction and start wrapping the floss back down your forearm toward your wrist.[15]
- Tuck the last strip under the previous band once you're finished.
- Swing your arm from a downward position to back behind your shoulder. Stand with your arm hanging down at your side. Then swing your arm up, curling it as you would if you were lifting a weight, until your hand touches your shoulder. Then return to the starting position and repeat the motion.[16]
- Perform a wrist extension against a wall. Extend your arm so that your palm is up and your elbow is almost completely straight. Then press your hand against a flat surface – a wall is best. Relax your wrist as you pull it away from the wall. Then repeat the motion.[17]
- Make sure your shoulder remains in a neutral position – don't push so hard that your shoulder moves.
- Perform a wrist extension against the floor. Kneel with both knees on the floor with your legs and feet extended behind you. Start with your arms extended and palms up. Then bend forward and place your palms on the floor so your fingers are pointing back toward your feet. Rock slowly back and forth on your hands and knees to extend your wrists.[18]
- You can also reverse your hands so that the top of your hands are on the floor while your fingers point back toward your feet.
EditFlossing Your Shoulders - Ask a friend to wrap your shoulder. Stand with your arm resting on a friend's shoulder. Your shoulder and arm should be in a neutral position – not extended or flexed in any way. They should place the end of the floss on the top of your shoulder, slightly down from the top joint. Wrap it once for an anchor strip, then use 50 percent tension to continue wrapping.
- You might start to feel occlusion – some pressure and tingling in your hand – that's alright for this particular wrap.
- Make sure they wrap the end under the previous strip.
- Flex and extend your arm. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, with your arm at your side and your fingers pointed toward the ground. Then raise your arm up, reaching toward the ceiling. Then swing your arm down and back, making about a 30-degree angle with your arm. Repeat this for 10 to 15 reps.
- Swing your arm across your body. Start with arm extended out to the side. Your elbow should be almost straight. Then swing your arm across your body so that it's parallel with your chest, keeping your elbow straight. Then swing your arm back out so that it's extended at your side. Repeat this movement for 15 to 20 reps.[19]
- Perform pass-throughs holding a stick or dowel. Hold a stick or dowel in front of you, so that your arms are just over shoulder-width apart. Lift the dowel up and over your head, extending your arms behind your body. Then bring the dowel back to the front. Repeat this for 15 to 20 reps.[20]
- Use a dowel to press overhead. Hold the dowel with your arms just over shoulder-width apart. Raise the dowel so you're holding it above and slightly behind your head. Then bend your elbows and bring the dowel back down until it rests against the nape of your neck.[21]
EditUsing Voodoo Floss for Knee Pain - Begin wrapping the knee below the kneecap for anterior knee pain. Anterior knee pain occurs at the front and center of the knee. Start the floss just below the kneecap. Wrap the floss around your knee, moving up toward your thigh and overlapping each band. Tuck the end into the previous band.[22]
- Begin wrapping your leg above the kneecap for lateral knee pain. Begin the floss on the outside of your leg. Then pull the floss from the outside of your knee, across your leg, and toward the inside of your thigh. Continue wrapping, working downward toward the top of your knee. Tuck the end into the previous band.[23]
- You shouldn't wrap your knee if you have lateral knee pain. The entire band should be wrapped around your leg just above your kneecap.
- Use the voodoo floss below your knee for pain under the kneecap. Start the floss on the outside of your leg, just below your kneecap. Then wrap it over the front of your leg, working toward the inside of your thigh. Overlap the floss as you wrap it, tucking the end into the previous band.[24]
- Perform 20 to 30 squats. Stand with your feet just over shoulder-width apart. Keeping your back straight, bend at the knees until they are just over your feet. Then push into the ground and raise your body back up.[25]
- Although there have not been scientific studies proving the efficacy or safety of using this tool, many people have experienced the benefits of increased mobility and reduced joint pain from using these bands appropriately and as recommended.
- If you begin to feel any pain, tingling, or occlusion in the body part you're wrapping, unwrap the floss immediately.
- If you have continual pain even after using the floss, see a doctor.
EditSources and Citations
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