| How to Get Your Dog Used to Wearing Clothes Posted: 19 Mar 2019 05:00 PM PDT Dressing up your dog can be both fun and practical, especially if you live in a climate where your canine friend can use a little extra warmth now and then. Getting a dog used to wearing clothes takes some time and effort, however. Start by picking out clothes that are easy to put on and comfortable for your pet. Once you've picked an outfit to start with, start gradually training your dog to wear it. Be sure to keep the process relaxed and low-pressure for your dog. EditChoosing Clothes for Your Dog - Start with clothes that are easy to put on and remove. When you're first starting to get your dog used to clothes, look for simple items that fasten around the dog's chest or belly. Avoid clothing that you have to pull over its head or limbs, since some dogs find this frightening or uncomfortable.[1]
- Good options to start with include sleeveless coats or jackets that fasten with straps across the chest and under the stomach.
- If you want to start even simpler, look for a large bandana that you can fasten around your dog's neck.
- Avoid clothes that cover your dog's head, feet, legs, or rear end. Your dog may feel stressed or panicked if you try to put on clothes that cover too much of its body. Don't try to start with anything that might feel too confining, such as garments with hoods, sleeves, or pants that cover the dog's hindquarters.[2]
- As your dog gets used to wearing simple clothes, you can eventually work your way up to more challenging items, such as pull-on sweaters, hoodies, or full-body outfits that cover your dog's back legs.
- Check that the clothes fit your dog properly. Your dog will be uncomfortable in clothes that are too loose or too tight. Before purchasing an article of clothing, such as a coat, get your dog's measurements to make sure you are choosing the right size.[3] Use a soft cloth measuring tape when measuring your dog.
- Make sure doesn't have small parts that your dog could swallow, such as large buttons, since they could get stuck in its bowels.
- For most dog clothing, you will need to get a measurement around your dog's neck (where the collar typically sits), around the widest part of the dog's body (typically the chest, just behind the shoulders), and from the back of the neck to the base of the tail.
- Check the clothing labels to see if they offer specific sizing guidelines (e.g., the weight, girth, and length ranges for which the item is appropriate).
- Look for items that are adjustable, such as vests or jackets with adjustable straps.
EditTraining Your Dog to Wear Clothes - Start getting your dog used to clothes as early as possible. If you can, work on training your dog to wear clothes while it is still a puppy. Younger dogs have an easier time than older ones adjusting to new things.[4]
- Even if your dog is already an adult, you may still be able to train it to wear at least simple clothes with a little extra patience and effort.
- Allow your dog to sniff the clothing you'd like to put on. When you're ready to try putting clothing on your dog, bring out the outfit and let the dog examine and smell it. Praise your dog for showing an interest in the clothes and offer it a treat.[5]
- By rewarding your dog for simply being around the outfit, you will begin to create a positive association with the clothing.
- Put the clothing on gradually while praising the dog. Take the item of clothing and gently touch the sides of your dog's body with it. Reward the dog with treats and praise if it stands still. Then, try draping the clothing over its back. If your dog is willing to stand still while you do this, start slowly fastening the clothing in place while continuing to offer praise and treats.[6]
- If your dog acts nervous or uncomfortable, stop and try again later. This will help prevent the dog from developing bad associations with getting dressed.
- Give your dog a toy to play with while it wears the clothes. Once you've successfully put the clothing on your dog, offer it a favorite toy or a puzzle filled with treats to keep it busy. This will distract the dog from the clothing and help it associate being dressed with having fun.[7]
- Continue to praise and pet your dog while it wears the clothing.
- Increase your dog's time in the clothes by 5 minutes a day. The first time you dress your dog, leave the clothing on for no more than a minute. If the dog tolerates it, try increasing the length of time to 5 minutes the next day, and then 10 the day after that.[8]
- If your dog gets stressed out or upset when you try longer sessions, go back to leaving the clothing on for shorter periods of time for a while.
- Consider your reasons for wanting to dress your dog. It's okay if you want your dog to wear clothes to look fashionable rather than out of practical necessity (e.g., if your dog needs help staying warm in winter). However, don't force your dog to wear clothes unnecessarily if it finds them uncomfortable or stressful.
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| How to Hang a Frameless Mirror on the Wall Posted: 19 Mar 2019 09:00 AM PDT Although frameless mirrors are usually installed in bathrooms, they can also be incorporated throughout your home for a sleek look that will match any type of decor. While framed mirrors can be hung in the same way as picture frames, you'll use a different set of approaches to hang a frameless mirror. One option is to use mirror clips; another is to glue the mirror to the wall with a special adhesive. EditMounting with Clips - Mark the spot on the wall where you want the mirror to hang. Place the mirror against the wall in your desired position. Using a pencil, mark around the top and bottom corners. Take the mirror off the wall and place out of the way.[1]
- This step will be easier with the help of another person who can hold the mirror in place while you make the markings.[2]
- Clips are best for small frameless mirrors. If you are hanging a large mirror, use J-channels or Z-clips in place of regular clips, which can support more weight.[3]
- Use a level to make sure the mirror will hang straight. Based on the corner markings you made, use a spirit level to draw straight lines across the wall where the top and the bottom edges of the mirror will go.
- To use a spirit level, look at the bubble in the tube. If it is equally spaced between the two black center lines, then your edge is straight. If it slides off to one side, adjust the angle of the level until the bubble sits in the center.[4]
- Double check that the wall is flat. Clipping a mirror too tightly against a bumpy wall can cause it to shatter. To locate bumps, slide a straight-edged board that is longer than the mirror itself over the wall. A yardstick is a good option, but if that's too short, try a straight piece of x lumber. It will rock back and forth over a bump. Mark these spots with a pencil and sand them down.[5]
- Power sanders are the simplest and quickest method.
- You can also use sandpaper wrapped around a wood block.
- Locate and mark the studs in the wall. Studs are the evenly-spaced wooden support beams that can be found behind most interior walls in homes. Slide an automatic stud finder along the wall to find the studs. With a pencil, mark the outside edges of each stud in the area where you plan to hang the mirror.[6]
- If you don't have a stud finder, you can approximate the location of the studs by tapping on the wall. Taps between studs will sound more hollow, while taps over studs will sound more solid.[7]
- If the mirror is positioned so it falls squarely in between studs, consider shifting its location so at least one clip can be screwed into a stud.
- Mark where you plan to install the bottom mirror clips. Depending on the width of your mirror and the number of clips you have, space them out evenly. The mirror manufacturer may have recommendations about how to position the clips most effectively. Using a pencil, make a dot where the screw will go for each clip.
- Make sure to align the bottom edge of the clip with the line you drew marking the bottom edge of the mirror. The markings for the pilot holes will fall to above the line, depending on the size of the clips.
- Drill pilot holes and install the bottom clips on the wall. Using a power drill, drill holes in the locations you marked. If any of the pilot holes do not fall on top of a stud, tap in a plastic wall anchor with a hammer until it is flush with the wall. Place a clip over each pilot hole and screw it into the wall with a screwdriver or drill.[8]
- Make sure you're using the right clips. Bottom clips are typically made up of a single U-shaped piece of material, while top clips are composed of two L-shaped pieces.
- Mark where you plan to screw in the top clips. Using a spirit level, draw a line vertically upwards from each bottom clip until it intersects with the line for the top edge of the mirror. Line the top edge of the top clip up with this point. Mark where the pilot hole should be drilled.[9]
- Similar to the bottom clips, the pilot holes should fall to below the top line.
- Drill the pilot holes and screw the top clip brackets into place. If any of the holes are not positioned over a stud, insert wall anchors into the drywall until their lips are flush with the drywall. Unscrew the two parts of the top clip. The larger piece is the bracket—screw each of these into place on the wall.[10]
- Screw on the rest of the top clips to secure the mirror against the wall. Slide the mirror into the bottom clips. Carefully, tilt the mirror back so it rests flush against the wall. Fit the other pieces of the top clips into the top brackets and screw them together just enough to firmly hold the mirror in place.[11]
EditAttaching with Adhesive - Mark where you want the mirror to hang using a pencil. Hold the mirror against the wall in your desired position and mark the top and bottom corners using a pencil. Use a level to ensure that the mirror will not hang crooked. Parallel to the lines you've drawn but about inside, stick 4 pieces of painter's tape to the wall.[12]
- The painter's tape marks the area where the mirror will be glued to the wall.
- Keep in mind that adhesive is a more permanent solution. It will damage your wall and likely your mirror if you try to remove it once it has been glued on.[13]
- Mark the area where the mirror will be glued to the wall with painter's tape.
- Prime the area for adhesive. Many household paints contain additives that make it easier to clean but harder for adhesives to attach and form a strong bond. Sand away the paint until you get down to the drywall. Wipe off any dust. Then, coat the sanded area with a primer and let dry.[14]
- Install a temporary wooden brace to support the mirror's bottom edge. Remove the painter's tape from the wall. Drill a piece of plywood into the wall so that its top is flush with the marked bottom edge of the mirror.[15]
- If you're installing the mirror in the bathroom, you can often use the countertop backsplash as a bottom support rather than installing a temporary brace.[16]
- Apply the adhesive to the back of the mirror. You'll need a high-grade adhesive known as mastic, which is often used in construction. The manufacturer will recommend the ideal pattern for application. Make sure to keep the mastic at least from the edge to prevent it from squeezing out when you press it against the wall.[17]
- Make sure you are using a type of mastic that is specifically intended for mounting mirrors. Using another kind could damage the silver coating on the back of the mirror.[18]
- Stick the mirror firmly to the wall. Rest one corner of the mirror on the support and keep the other slightly lifted. Press it against the wall. As the mastic comes into contact with the wall, allow the lifted corner to slide back down and rest against the support, spreading the glue across the wall surface. Use a clean paint roller to press the mirror firmly into the wall.[19]
- For additional security, stick pieces of painter's tape to the top corners of the mirror until the glue dries fully.
- Allow the mastic to dry for about 24 hours.[20]
- Remove the wooden brace and repair any holes. Once the mastic has dried completely, use a drill to unscrew the wooden brace from the wall. Using a putty knife, spread spackling across any holes left over from drilling the brace into the wall. Sand the spackling smooth and paint over it with a color that matches the wall's existing paint. Peel off any leftover painter's tape.
- Make sure to check your local building codes. Some areas may require clips in addition to adhesive when mounting mirrors.[21]
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| How to Clean Keycaps Posted: 19 Mar 2019 01:00 AM PDT If you spend a lot of time at a computer, you may have noticed that your keyboard doesn't look as clean as it did when you first started using it. Dust, food particles, and oils from your fingers may have left the keys looking pretty grimy. If you're using a mechanical keyboard, it might be time to remove the keycaps and give them a good clean. With just some soaking, rinsing, and drying, you can get your keyboard looking fresh again. EditRemoving the Keycaps - Take a photo of your keyboard so you remember where the keys go. You don't want to forget this layout once you're ready to put the keycaps back on.
- If you're not able to take your own photo, look up an online image of a similar keyboard so you know where everything goes. [1]
- Unplug the keyboard from the computer. If you have a newer computer, it's probably plugged into a USB port. [2] If it's an older computer, look for the purple-colored connector called a PS/2. [3]
- If the keyboard is plugged into a PS/2 port, make sure to shut down your computer before unplugging it. [4]
- Use a wire keycap puller to remove the keycaps. This is safer than using a tool like a screwdriver. Wire keycap pullers are less likely to scratch the keys than plastic ones. [5] They have a handle and two wire loops, and are simple to use.
- You can find inexpensive options on sites like Amazon.
- Place the wire loops opposite each other diagonally on the key and gently wiggle back and forth while pulling up. [6]
- Avoid removing large keycaps. This includes the spacebar, enter, and shift. These keys may have wires to stabilize them, making them more difficult to remove.
- You can dampen a microfiber cloth to wipe the keycaps you don't remove. [7]
EditLeaving the Keycaps to Soak - Place the keycaps in a bowl of warm water. Don't make the water too hot. [8] You can also add a couple of denture tablets to the bowl to help remove oils from the keycaps.
- Dish soap is another option, but it can be harder to rinse away. [9]
- Do not use bleach, as it can fade plastics. [10]
- Let the keycaps soak for 6 hours. You can use some of this time to clean the keyboard itself by shaking it out over a trash can. Loosen up stubborn gunk with a stiff-bristle brush or Q-tip.
- Avoid the switch stems when brushing. This will keep particles from becoming lodged too deep.
- Use a handheld vacuum to suck up loose debris. [11]
- Rinse the keycaps in the sink. Make sure you get any residue from the denture cleaner or dish soap off the keys. You can use a strainer for this step. [12]
- If there's still some grime on any of the keycaps, use a toothbrush to scrub it off. [13]
- Leave the keycaps out to air dry. Make sure you lay the the keycaps stem up while they dry, so the water can evaporate. [14]
- You may want to leave them out for 24 hours, to make sure they're completely dry and won't damage your computer. [15]
- Don't use a paper towel to dry the keycaps, as this can scratch the surface and leave particles behind. [16]
EditPutting the Keycaps Back - Match the placement of the keycaps to the photo of your keyboard. Make sure you put all the keys back carefully in their proper places and facing the correct direction.
- To pop the keycaps back on, just push them straight down over the switch. [17]
- Reattach the keyboard to the computer. If you have a PS/2 connector, remember to match up the color (usually purple) to the correct port.
- Turn your computer back on if it's shut down.
- Now your keyboard is clean and ready to use.
- Clean your keyboard regularly without removing the keycaps. You can do this once a week or whenever things are starting to look dirty. [18] Use a handheld vacuum or a damp microfiber cloth. Dry it off with another cloth, not a paper towel. [19]
- Make sure the keyboard is unplugged before you clean it.
- If you prefer, you can use a cleaning wipe. [20]
- Avoid eating or drinking near your keyboard. This will prevent crumbs and other build-up, so you won't have to clean the keycaps as often.
- Keeping drinks away from your keyboard will also prevent damaging spills. [21]
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