| How to Make Apple Cider Vinegar Posted: 07 Dec 2018 04:00 PM PST Apple cider vinegar is an all-natural product that has nearly countless uses, whether you're drinking it for health benefits or using it to clean your house. If you're using a lot of raw apple cider vinegar, buying it can quickly become very expensive. By knowing the right ratios and how long you need to let your vinegar ferment, you can save money by turning apples into vinegar with ease. EditIngredients - Apples
- Water
- Sugar or honey
EditMaking a Cider Base - Choose quality apples. Even though they're left to ferment for a long time, the apples you choose can significantly shape the flavor of your finished vinegar. Choose the best quality apples available to you in order to get the best apple cider vinegar at the end.[1]
- For a more complex and deep vinegar at the end, try using a combination of different apples. Use two sweet apples, such as Golden Delicious or Gala, with one sharp tasting apple, such as McIntosh or Liberty, for a slightly sharper vinegar at the end.[2]
- Instead of using whole apples, save scraps from apples used in other dishes to make your apple cider vinegar. One whole apple is roughly equivalent to the scraps of two apples. Keep the peel, core and other scraps in your freezer until you're ready to use them to make vinegar.[3]
- Wash your apples in cold water. It's always a good idea to wash your fruit and vegetables before eating them, and the same is true when cooking or fermenting them. Give your apples a thorough rinse and scrub with cold water to clean away anything you don't want in your vinegar.[4]
- You can use any number of apples you want to make apple cider vinegar. The more you use, the more vinegar you'll get! If you're just starting out making your own apple cider vinegar, try using 3 apples for your first batch. This will give you a good amount of vinegar but won't put too much at risk if something goes wrong.[5]
- If you're using apple scraps, make sure to wash the whole apples before separating the scraps from the rest of the apples.
- Cut the apples into small cubes. The more surface area of the apple you expose, the more quickly the vinegar will ferment. Use a clean knife to cut your apples into cubes, keeping the peel and the core in as well.[6]
- If you're using scraps from other apples, there's no need to cut them up further.
- Transfer the apples to a glass jar. As the apples will be fermenting for up to 3 months, keep them in a sterilized, wide mouth, glass jar. The apples shouldn't fill the jar more than ¾ of the way, so a quart jar or something bigger should work perfectly.[7]
- Never use stainless steel to ferment your vinegar. As the apples ferment, the acidity of the vinegar can damage the steel, or impart a metallic taste into your vinegar that might change its flavor..[8]
- Cover the apples with water. Make sure the apples are completely covered with water, as any exposed apple will begin to rot rather than ferment into vinegar. For the best results, use filtered or mineral water that will be free from any impurities that could ruin your vinegar.[9]
- For a quart jar with three apples, you'll need around of water. Use more or less as is needed.
- It's always better to add too much water than not enough. If you add too much, your apple cider vinegar might be a little weaker or take longer to ferment. If you don't add enough water, some apple will be exposed and might begin to rot and ruin your vinegar entirely.
- Add 1 teaspoon (4 grams) of raw sugar for each apple. Stir the mixture thoroughly to make sure everything combines fully. The sugar will ferment and turn into alcohol, making the apple cider that will eventually become apple cider vinegar. Raw sugar works best for this, but you can use honey or any other sugar if you'd prefer.[10]
- Cover the jar with a cheesecloth. As the apples ferment into cider and eventually vinegar, the mixture will still need to be able to breathe. Use a piece of cheesecloth held in place around the mouth of the jar with a rubber band. This will keep everything out of the jar, but still let the gases release during the fermentation process.[11]
EditFermenting Your Vinegar - Keep the jar in a warm, dark place. Find somewhere that you can leave the vinegar to ferment for a long time, where it won't be disturbed unintentionally. Keep it at the bottom or on top of your pantry, in a corner of your kitchen, or anywhere else where it won't be exposed to direct sunlight. Each home will have a different, perfect place.[12]
- The jar should be kept at room temperature as it ferments, which is around .[13]
- Stir the mixture once or twice a day. Stirring the mixture will help the fermentation process, as well as shifting apples around in the jar. Give the cider a stir with a wooden a spoon once or twice a day for the first week or two. Don't worry too much if you miss a day, as long as you keep moving the mixture around regularly.[14]
- If you notice the apples are rising out of the water, use a fermentation stone or something else to weigh them down slightly and make sure they're submerged.[15]
- Wait for the apples to sink to the bottom of the jar. As you check on the apples every day or so, keep an eye out for bubbles indicating the fermentation process. After a week or two, the apples will fully sink to the bottom of the jar. This indicates that the apples have fermented and are no longer needed to make the vinegar.
- If you notice any scum forming on top of the jar, skim it off and discard it.[16]
- Strain the apples from the cider and pour the cider back into the jar. Use a plastic sieve or another cheesecloth to strain the apples out of the cider. As with every other step, avoid using metal as this can ruin the fermentation process. Pour the cider back into the jar, cover with a cheesecloth secured with a rubber band, and put it back in the same warm, dark place.[17]
- Once you have strained the apples out of the cider, you should discard them. They are not suitable to eat once they've been fermented.
- Leave the cider to ferment for 3 to 6 weeks, stirring every few days. This is where the apple cider will begin to turn into apple cider vinegar. Stir the jar every 3 to 4 days, just to move the vinegar around a little as it ferments.[18]
- Over this time, the sweet cider scent should start developing a slightly more tangy aroma. This is a sign that the fermentation is working, and the cider is becoming vinegar.[19]
- The longer you give the vinegar to ferment, the stronger the taste and tang will be. After around 3 weeks of fermentation, start tasting the vinegar every few days until you reach the taste and acidity you want.[20]
- The length of the fermentation process will vary based on the climate you live in. During summer, the cider will take less time to ferment. In winter, it will likely take even longer.[21]
- Transfer the fermented vinegar to a lidded glass jar and store. Use a clean, sterilized glass jar with a tight lid in order to halt the fermentation process and keep the vinegar fresh. Store the vinegar in your refrigerator and it should never go bad.[22]
- Keeping the vinegar in the fridge should stop the fermentation process, but if left long enough it may continue. If the vinegar gets too strong, add a little bit of water to dilute it back down to the acidity you want.[23]
- While you can safely store the apple cider vinegar at room temperature, it will continue to ferment if you do so.
- If a gelatinous blob forms on the surface of your vinegar, this is cause for celebration rather than worry. This is known as the vinegar "mother" and can be used to jumpstart future batches of apple cider vinegar. Add the mother at the same time as the apples to speed up the fermentation process.
- Don't use homemade vinegar for pickling, as this requires an acetic acid level of 5%. It's difficult to know the exact acetic acid level of homemade vinegar, so it's best to use store-bought vinegar to be safe.[24]
- If you notice and green, grey, black, or brownish scum or mold forming on top of your cider vinegar as it ferments, you should dispose of it and start again. It might be a sign of dangerous bacteria that could make you ill.[25]
EditThings You'll Need - Apples
- Knife
- Cutting board
- Glass jar
- Water
- Sugar
- Cheesecloth
- Rubber band
- Wooden or plastic spoon
- Lidded glass jars for storage
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Set Up a Plant‐Only Aquarium Posted: 07 Dec 2018 08:00 AM PST When thinking of "aquariums" full of freshwater, it's hard to not think of little fish swimming around. There are tanks, however, made just for freshwater plantings! Maintenance is easy, but don't skimp. While it may not seem as fun at first, it is an exciting hobby to get into. Aquascaping (arranging aquatic plants) is a true art form and there are contests for who can create the best underwater scene! This is a unique way to keep plants, arguably the best way, so read on to find out how. EditSetting Up Tank Necessities - Purchase and set up all necessary equipment. Just because you don't have any fish doesn't mean you can skimp on the basics, including:
- A simple filter of your choosing (hang-on back filters are the easiest to find and are suitable for most tanks),
- A tank light for growing plants, secured properly for safety. Different plants need different light levels, so do research and plan your tank accordingly.
- An air pump (with airstones and airline tubing). It does not need to be strong, but needs to disturb the water and add oxygen to prevent stagnant water buildup.
- If your tank's water temperature reaches cool extremes, it's best to invest in a heater as well.
- Sunlight is not a suitable replacement for tank lights! It can heat up the tank; it's unregulated, and accelerates algae growth, so keep your tank away from it.
- Add gravel, sand, or other plant-friendly substrates and decorations as needed. Wash such material with normal tap water, thoroughly.
- You can skip decorations, but substrate is vital in planted tanks. Keep in mind that certain plants do better with certain substrates.
- Add conditioned water. Use a proper water conditioner to prepare; don't just aerate the water. You might also add aquarium salt (1 tbsp per 5 US gallons) [1] to ward off unsightly parasites, but aquatic plants usually don't have many parasitic animals plaguing them. But if you add invertebrates, then do add sea salt for them.
- Don't, as yet, add the plant fertilizer (substrate or water soluble).
- Cycle your tank. You must not skip this even if you only want plants. Plants die over time, and a proper bacterial filtration system will make sure ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates don't skyrocket.
- While some (not a lot!) of nitrates are vital to the plants' growth -- ammonia and nitrites are toxic to them. Plants handle the chemicals better than fish do, but it's better to err on the caution side.
EditDealing With The Plants - Research your desired plants' requirements. Of course, buy freshwater plants. As mentioned before, light requirements are a big factor. If your light is not strong enough (or too strong), then revise your plans. Think about nutritional requirements and how each plant grows. Larger plants shade over others if not arranged properly, blocking out light. All of the plants need to coexist peacefully.
- Buy from reputable sites. A snail-free promise should be searched for, as snails can reproduce quickly to decimate your tank.
- Research carefully. Some "aquatic" plants actually should not be fully submerged. It's great to use these, but don't put them fully in the water. They will rot.
- Many plants are fine with gravel, but some do poorly in sand. Keep this in mind.
- Plan the plants' positions aesthetically. This is the artsy part of aquascaping. Tall, bushy plants should be near the back to provide a background. Shorter, weedier plants can be in the middle. Smaller, stunningly beautiful plants can be in the front as a centerpiece. Put the airstone in between plants to hide it, if you want. Try to use your imagination to build underwater scenes that have a natural feel to them.
- If you included natural wood décor, there are "mosses" or other plants that flourish on floating wood. Add them to the wood!
- A good example would be an underwater "meadow". Hairgrass, wood, and rocks are used to create the illusion of a scene usually seen on ground.
- Add nutritional supplements if needed. There are different forms of nutrients, from pellets to solutions. Add the right amount according to your tank and follow instructions to the T. Since there are no fish (even if you will add invertebrates), there will be minimal waste for the plants to utilize. This is key to a healthy tank.
- Follow suppliers' instructions. Don't just put in whatever seems reasonable. Too much can burn the roots and plants or mess up water chemistry.
- Add the plants. Rinse off debris with normal tap water and snip off any yellow or dead parts. Hopefully, you've devised a plan on how to arrange them by size and kinds, so work logically. Some plants have a rhizome similar to roots -- but some of those should not be buried, so be careful to read each of their requirements.
- Plants that grow on wood can be tucked into crevices or held in place gently by a temporary, weak rubber band.
- Rooted plants should have their roots tucked completely into the substrate.
- Floating plants can be anchored to aquarium weights or rocks, or left to freely wander.
EditPerforming Maintenance - Check and modify the water every two weeks or so. Even if less waste is being produced than in a fish tank, the nitrates will eventually build up. Depending on whether you put special invertebrates in (see "Adding Invertebrates") depending on your tank size, and your number of plants, this frequency will change. This is a general rule. Replace 25% of the water, correctly treated and with aquarium/sea salt for health of freshwater fish if you want.
- Once in a while, use your gravel or substrate vacuum to clean the substrate surface of rotting organic matter.
- Top off your tank as needed. If you use salt as an electrolyte or supplement for aquatic health, do not add salt to the water when you are only topping it off! When water evaporates from your tank, the salt does not evaporate with it. Adding more salt can make the tank too salty. As always, condition the water.
- Add fertilizers if needed. Some substrate fertilizers last for a very long time and do not need to be bothered for months. Some liquid varieties require weekly additions, so make sure you keep up on that. A carbon dioxide supplement (recalling that plants make and give off oxygen but need carbon dioxide given off by fish and other animals) can be useful as well, added weekly, and does not harm any animal or plant if used with the correct proportions.
- Scrubbing off algae may need to be done once in a while to keep up the appearance. Algae is not harmful unless it starts to block out light and suck up too many nutrients. A soft-padded brush (available at pet stores) easily gets the job done. Algae on plants is usually fine. If it bothers you, lightly rub it off with your fingers.
- Avoid too much algae by keeping the tank away from sun, not using too-strong lights, and not overdoing fertilizer/supplements.
EditAdding Invertebrates (Optional) - Like with getting any new pet, research on what is acceptable for your current tank. These should be added to an established planted tank. Common invertebrates such as mystery snails and shrimp actually function as tank "cleaners", eating waste, dead matter. Many species are peaceful, but some can be incredibly aggressive. Some prefer open space, while others prefer hiding spaces. Be mindful.
- Most pet store variety invertebrates only eat dead matter, but some do eat live plants. Furnishing their needs and protecting your aquatic plants can include putting in bits of plant material.
- Pick healthy specimens. Bright colors (if applicable), active movements, and an intact body indicate good health. Ask the pet supplier about the conditioning of their invertebrates tanks to get a sense of how they are handled by them. If you see a tank with dead or diseased organisms (even fish), it may be best to pass on the invertebrates in there.
- Don't be afraid to request particular sizes and kinds of specimens! This is common and acceptable.
- Avoid buying baby invertebrates for an unestablished tank. They generally do not do well in a newly prepared tank.
- Add them in slowly and acclimate them. You should not add more than a few of any animal in at one time, to let the tank get used to it. Adding them in means that you should put them in a bucket of your tank water and gently scoop them out of the bag of store water. Dumping the bag's contents into your tank can stress them and introduce questionable pet-store water into your water.
- The best method to acclimate them is to simply float the animals' bag in the tank water for at least 30 minutes.
- Feed them properly. Giving them debris from cleaning a fish tank does not provide enough food for invertebrates. Giving them a balanced diet of bits of vegetables, pellets, or frozen foods ensures healthiness. You want to make your invertebrates part of the whole underwater scene, not just a side attraction. Feed them well and they will grow beautifully!
- Inadequate feeding of vegetable food will push normal scavengers into eating your plants at times, so protect your plants by feeding adequately.
- Remove food after a few hours/within the day if not eaten, to prevent mold/algae.
- Enjoy the sight of your creatures among your nice plants! Shrimp can enhance visual appeal of the tank, while tidying it. This type of tank can sustain/clean itself nicely, with animals and plants working together. Still, take care of your tank!
- Rectangular tanks are the easiest type to work with.
- If your changing water is too warm/cold, let it sit for a few hours at room temperature to stabilize/reach the ambient temp.
- If you are sure your tank is cycling well and it has been in use for at least a year, you can get away with less frequent water modifications/changes.
- Instead of dumping the changing water into the tank, slowly pour it in. This will reduce disturbing the substrate and plants.
- Never do a full water change unless your tank presents a real reason.
- Changing your whole filter cartridge and media (where most of the nitrifying bacteria reside) should not be done. You can take out the media (usually charcoal substance inside the cartridge) and transfer it into another cartridge if needed.
- Never wash a filter cartridge with bacteria from a cycle in tap water. This will kill the bacteria.
- Don't uproot your plants for a cleaning; it's not necessary and can be harmful to the plant's growth.
- Avoid stirring up the substrate a lot if you use pellet fertilizer.
- Invertebrates can't completely fill in for you, you will need to perform actual cleaning duties!
EditThings You'll Need - Gravel siphon or turkey baster
- Bucket
- Scrubbing pad or tool
- Water conditioner
- Aquarium salt (optional)
- Aquatic plant fertilizers and/or supplements
- Freshwater aquatic plants
- Substrate
- Fish tank
- Tank light
- Filter
- Heater (optional)
- Air pump, tubing, and stone
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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| How to Use a Clay Bar Posted: 07 Dec 2018 12:00 AM PST Auto detailing clay is used to remove dust, dirt, industrial fallout, acid rain, and other contaminants from your car's exterior surfaces. Known as "claying," the process removes particles that stick to the clay when it is rubbed along the car's surface. "Claying" is most commonly used on paint, but also works on glass, fiberglass, and metal. When done properly, "claying" is non-abrasive and should not damage your car. EditPrepping Your Car and the Clay - Wash and dry your car by hand before "claying" it. Remove as much of the dirt, grime, and other contaminants from the surface as possible. This will make "claying" go much more quickly.[1]
- Don't use an automatic car wash, because they tend to leave behind a lot of soap residue and other contaminants. In fact, most auto detailers will likely tell you to never use automatic car washes.
- Buy a fine grade clay bar with its matching lubricating spray. Clay bars come in 2 main categories—"fine" and "medium"—although some brands have additional sub-categories (e.g., "ultra fine"). Fine grade bars should remove most surface contaminants and any wax, but are less likely to mar the paint finish than medium grade bars.[2]
- In the hands of an experienced auto detailer, medium grade bars usually won't result in any marring, and can remove a great deal of contamination from a car that's gone years without a "claying." However, especially if you're a novice "clayer," a fine grade bar is the safer bet.
- If the clay bar kit doesn't come with a bottle of lubricating spray, buy a bottle that is the same brand as the bar. They'll be in the same section of the auto supply store.
- Buy a bar for 1 car, or cut a larger bar. Clay bars usually come in sizes ranging from . The size is more than enough for 1 car, and is a very manageable piece of clay to work with.[3]
- If you buy a larger bar, you can cut it into sections with a sharp knife and seal up the pieces you don't need for later use. For example, you can cut a bar into 3 pieces, use 1 now, and seal the other 2 in zip-close bags.
- Squeeze the clay in your hand until it's a pliable disc. The warmth of your hands will soften the clay as you work it back and forth into a ball shape. Once it softens up, flatten it into a circular shape that is about thick.[4]
- At this thickness, of clay will create a disc that's roughly equal to 3-4 finger widths—which is a perfect size for "claying."
Edit"Claying" the First Car Section - Spray clay lubricant over a section of car. Spray generously, so that the area is not just misted, but saturated. Also spray the clay disc lightly for extra lubrication.[5]
- Start at a cleaner area of the car--like the roof or hood--and work your way to the dirtier areas--the front bumper, the bottoms of the door panels, etc. Your clay won't get filled with debris as quickly this way.
- While some "clayers" claim that water works fine as a lubricant, you'll likely get much better results if you use the lubricating spray that either comes with or matches the brand of your chosen clay bar.
- Never "clay" a dry car. You'll end up with bits of clay stuck all over the surface, and any contaminants will likely scratch the finish.
- Slide the clay back and forth gently over the lubricated area. Flatten your hand and pin the clay disc against the car with your fingers. Rub side-to-side or up-and-down, using just enough pressure to keep the clay from falling out of your hand. Add more lubricant if the clay sticks while you're trying to slide it.[6]
- You'll hear and feel the clay picking up contaminants as it slides over the surface. You may even notice some slight resistance at first due to the contaminants, in spite of the lubricating spray.
- Don't rub in a circular motion. This is more likely to create scratches from contaminants embedded in the clay.
- Check the clay, then keep working over the same area. After a few passes over the sprayed area, check the surface of the clay. If it's full of contaminants, fold the clay disc over and flatten it out so you have a clean surface. Then, add a quick spray of lubricant to the clay and continue rubbing the same section of the car.[7]
- Repeat this process until you don't feel, hear, or see any contaminants being picked up.
- Wipe the lubricant off the car with a clean microfiber towel. The paint should be as smooth as a sheet of glass. Run your finger over it to confirm this. If it isn't super smooth, "clay" the area again.[8]
- Wipe the area thoroughly, but not aggressively. You just need to remove the remaining lubricating spray.
EditContinuing the Job Section-by-Section - Fold the clay over to create a clean surface for the next section. Fold the clay in half and reshape it into a disc. Examine the clay surface to make sure there aren't any contaminants on the surface. If there are, fold it over again. Spray it lightly with lubricant once you have a clean surface.[9]
- A bar of clay should last for 3-4 "clayings" before it's overloaded with contaminants. However, once you can't find a clean surface in the clay, it's time to discard it.
- If you spot a larger piece of contamination in the clay, pick it out with your fingers, then fold the clay over.
- Always discard the clay if you drop it on the ground. It will pick up too many large pieces of debris to be useful.
- Spray and "clay" an adjacent section that overlaps the first. Your second section should overlap the first by several inches/centimeters. Spray it liberally with lubricant, and add a bit of lubricant to the clean section of your clay disc. Then, as before, rub the clay very gently over the new section in either an up-and-down or side-to-side motion.[10]
- Check your clay disc regularly for built-up debris, and fold it over to create a clean surface as needed.
- When the clay stops picking up contaminants, wipe the excess lubricant off the car with a clean microfiber cloth.
- Continue "claying" the car section by section until the job is done. Keep overlapping each new section over the previous one by several inches/centimeters, and keep checking your clay disc regularly for excess contaminant buildup. If you can no longer create a clean clay surface, grab a new clay bar to finish the job.[11]
- You can also "clay" plastic and chrome areas, as well as the windows—basically everything but the tires!
- Apply a coat of wax or sealant after "claying" the whole car. Follow the instructions on the packaging of the clay bar and the wax or sealant. Waxing or sealing protects the paint from corrosion that can form in the tiny holes that had been previously filled with contaminants before "claying."[12]
- "Clay" your car again when contaminants build up on the surface. If you're using a fine grade clay bar, you can clean your car with it as often as monthly. Limit "claying" with medium grade bars to 1-2 times per year, though, in order to protect the car's finish.[13]
- If it's not exposed to excessive amounts of contamination, you may need to "clay" a car that's kept outside 4 times per year. A car that's kept in a garage most of the time may only need "clayed" 1-2 times per year.
- "Claying" removes surface contaminants, but it will not remove swirls or scratches in your car's paint.
- Using a spray on wax in between "claying" helps keep the wax sheen on the paint. The wax helps keep contaminants out of the paint.
EditThings You'll Need - Auto detergent and car washing supplies
- Auto detailing clay bar
- Clay lubricant spray
- Clean microfiber towels
- Auto wax or sealant
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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