| How to Wrap a Round Gift Posted: 12 Dec 2018 04:00 PM PST Wrapping gifts can be fun, but it gets tough when you're wrapping up oddly-shaped objects, especially circular ones. They don't have edges, so it's hard to know where to fold your paper without wrinkling it or making the present look awkward and bulky. With some strategic folding and cutting, though, you can wrap up that round ball or cylinder like a pro! EditTwist-Wrapping a Spherical Present - Cut a long piece of wrapping paper. You'll need a length of wrapping paper that's longer than it is wide, but it should be wide enough to cover the gift completely. When the gift is in the center of the paper, you should have at least a few inches of paper left over on either side.
- The exact size of the paper depends on the size of your gift. It's better to err on the side of caution, though, since you can always trim off extra paper at the end.
- Slide a bowl under your wrapping paper and place the gift on top. Putting your gift on top of a bowl or a large roll of tape will give it something to stand up on, which will make it easier for you to wrap. Once you've slid the bowl under, place your gift on top and slide it so it's in the center of your paper.[1]
- The short sides should be to the left and right of the gift, and the long sides should be in front and behind it.
- Use a bowl or a roll that's small enough to hold your object up without letting it slip through.
- Pull the wrapping paper to the top of the object. With one hand, reach across your gift and pull the long side of the wrapping paper towards you, bending it up and over the top. Make sure it reaches the center of your gift, and let the excess paper jut out to the sides.[2]
- Crease the wrapping paper gently, going around the ball to cover it. Holding the edge of the wrapping paper against the top of the gift in one hand. With the other, start to gather the rest of the paper and gently fold it into the top. Collect the paper in one hand as you move around the gift.[3]
- You can make the folds large or small, depending on the size of the gift and the look you're going for.
- As you get to the other side of the ball, switch hands so that you're folding with the hand closest to the unbent paper.
- Tie the excess paper at the top with a ribbon. Once you've gathered all the wrapping paper at the top, use a ribbon to tie it into place. You can also apply some tape to make it extra secure. Then, cut the excess wrapping at the top until it's a few inches long, or whatever looks best.[4]
- Cut your ribbon before you start wrapping so you don't have to hold the paper and cut the ribbon at the same time.
EditFolding Wrapping Paper for a Spherical Gift - Place the object in the center of your wrapping paper. Cut your paper, measuring first to make sure it covers the whole gift. Then, set your gift in the middle so that the long sides are in front and behind it, and the short sides are to either side.[5]
- Fold the long sides of the paper over the object and tape them in place. Grab the long side that's furthest from you and pull it over the top of the gift, then do the same with the other long side. Make sure they overlap and that there's no gap. Then, use a piece of tape to secure them in place.[6]
- If your gift is larger, you might need a bigger piece of tape, or even a few separate ones. Use your best judgment to see what works the best.
- Make triangular folds at one end of the gift. At one of the open ends, pull the wrapping paper down so that it's flush against the gift. Then, pull one side in to create a triangular fold towards the center. Repeat on the other side until you have one pointed flap of fabric sticking out.[7]
- Pull the side flaps in as tightly as you can to make the wrapping neat.
- Pull up the bottom flap and tape it in place. Continue to hold the side flaps tightly against the center. Then, take the bottom flap and press it up against the gift. Use a small piece of tape to hold it in place.[8]
- Repeat on the other end of the gift. Do the same holding, folding, and taping steps on the other side of the gift to complete your wrapping job. Gently pull out any crinkles at the corners to give it a neater overall look.[9]
EditWrapping a Cylindrical Gift - Set the cylinder on its side in the middle of the wrapping paper. Place the gift close enough to the edge so that if you bend the paper up towards the flat end of the object, it hits right at the middle. Make sure the paper is long enough to fully wrap around the gift with at least of overlap.[10]
- The flat ends of the gift should be facing the long sides of the paper.
- Roll and tape the short ends of the paper over the gift. Take one of the short ends and pull it up and over the curved side of the cylinder. Hold it in place while you do the same with the other end. Then, tape it into place with a strip of tape as long as the overlapping side.[11]
- For a neater look, you can use double-sided tape. Before you pull the paper over the gift, place it on the underside of one edge of paper, then roll the paper and smoothe the tape into place.
- Bend the top edge over one flat end of the gift. Making sure that the gift is still center in the paper tube, carefully fold the top edge of the paper over one of the flat sides. Crease it neatly and as close to the object as you can.[12]
- Fold a diagonal triangle crease towards the center. Hold the top of the paper in place. Then, pinch the paper slightly on one side and pull it gently in. Make a sharp, diagonal crease that points toward the center of the flat, circular end.[13]
- Make a second, overlapping diagonal crease. Pinch a bit of the loose paper next to the crease you just made and do the same thing. Make a neat, diagonal fold that overlaps the fold you just made.[14]
- Hold the two creases in place tightly with one hand.
- Repeat the creases all around the flat end. Continue making overlapping creases across the flat end of the gift, eventually moving down to the bottom half of the paper. Make them as tight as possible so they stay in place while you move across the gift. When all the creases are finished, it should look a bit like a spiral at the flat end of the gift.[15]
- You can roll the gift as you go to make it easier to fold.
- Secure the center with a piece of tape. Once all the creases are completed, take a small piece of tape and place it right over the center of the flat end, where all of the creases point to. Repeat on the second flat end of the cylinder to complete the wrapping[16]
- If you want to hide the center of the creases, tie or stick a bow over it.
- Choose a strong, durable wrapping paper in an intricate pattern, if possible, which will help hide any mistakes you make while wrapping.[17]
EditThings You'll Need - Wrapping paper
- Scissors
- Tape
- Ribbon or bow
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Replace a Bathroom Sink Posted: 12 Dec 2018 08:00 AM PST Because they get heavy everyday use, bathroom sinks can easily become chipped, stained, or scratched over time. When this happens, you may want to install a new sink to enhance the ambience of your bathroom and create a fresh, clean look. While replacing a bathroom sink takes a bit of time, and replacing the faucet is a separate but essential element of the process, the overall job is manageable for most DIYers. EditPreparing the Old Sink and Buying the New One - Turn off the water supply and empty the lines. The shutoff valves are usually located in the cabinet under the sink. Turn both the hot and cold valves clockwise until they resist further turning. Then, turn on the hot and cold faucet taps to empty the faucet lines.[1]
- If the shutoff valves won't stop the flow of water completely, you'll have to replace them. Unless you have some plumbing experience, this may be a job best left to a professional.
- Disconnect the P-trap portion of the drain pipe. If the P-trap is made of PVC, loosen the slip nut that connects it to the underside of the sink drain by hand. If the P-trap is made of metal, loosen the connecting nut with channel locks.[2]
- You don't need to remove the P-trap to replace the sink, but you may want to remove it temporarily so you can clear it of debris. To take it out, unscrew the nut (by hand or with channel locks) that connects the bottom of the P-trap to the drain line below.
- Place a bucket or heavy towel at the bottom of the cabinet to catch any dripping water.
- Unfasten the hot and cold water lines with a crescent wrench. These are flexible lines that run from the shutoff valves to the underside of the faucet. Disconnect them right above the shutoff valves. Some types may have nuts you can loosen by hand, but you'll often have to use a crescent wrench.[3]
- You can reuse these water lines if you want—just disconnect them from the underside of the sink later, then reattach them during installation. But this is also a good time to replace them.
- Measure the dimensions of the old bathroom sink with a measuring tape. If you want to reuse your existing countertop, makes sure you get a new sink that will fit in the same spot as the old one. Write down the length, depth, and width of the sink, as well as the length and width of the countertop.[4]
- Buy your new sink at a home improvement store. Bring the measurements of the old sink and countertop with you. This helps to ensure you purchase the correct size before putting in a bathroom sink. Make sure the replacement sink is the same type (top-mount or undermount) as the old one![5]
- Ask an employee for assistance if you need help selecting a new sink.
- Most bathroom sinks are still made of ceramic, but there are other options, and many colors to choose from beyond the traditional white.
EditReplacing a Top-Mount Sink - Remove the clips under the sink that hold it against the countertop. Many, but not all, sinks have clips underneath them that create a pressure connection against the underside of the counter. If your sink has them, loosen them either by hand or with a screwdriver.[6]
- If your new sink requires clips, it should come with them. However, you may want to keep these old ones for the time being, just in case they might come in handy.
- Cut any sealant between the sink and the countertop with a utility knife. Carefully run the blade of the knife between the rim of the sink and the countertop. Doing so will slice through the caulk or other sealant that secures the sink and countertop together.[7]
- Work slowly and carefully so you don't cut into the countertop, especially if it's made of laminated wood. Of course, if you're replacing the countertop as well, you can be as messy as you like!
- Lift out the old sink from the counter. If you can get a good grip from above, you can lift it straight up and out. Otherwise, have a second person push up from below, then lift out the sink when it pops up.[8]
- Once the old sink is out of the way, scrape away any residual caulk or sealant on the countertop. Use a plastic putty knife for scraping, then clean up any residue with a rag dipped in mineral spirits.
- Install the faucet and drain on the new sink. You can either remove the faucet and drain from the old sink and reuse them, or buy a new faucet and drain to go with your new sink. If you are not experienced with this type of project, you may be better off with a new faucet and drain, since they will come with detailed installation instructions.[9]
- Faucet and drain installations will vary quite a bit based on the particular brand and model you select. However, with a good set of instructions, it is a project most DIYers can handle. Otherwise, contact a plumber.
- Apply silicone caulk to the underside of the new sink's rim. Squeeze a steady strip of caulk all the way around the underside of the rim. This will hold the sink in place and prevent water from dripping down into the cabinet.[10]
- Choose a silicone caulk intended for use with bathroom fixtures. Don't use acrylic or other non-silicone caulks.
- Lower the sink into the hole in the countertop. Lift the sink carefully and slowly drop it straight down into the opening. Once it's in place, push down on the sink and wipe off any excess silicone that squeezes out with paper towels.[11]
- This job may be a bit easier if you have a second person reach up from inside the cabinet to support the sink from below.
- Attach the sink to the underside of the counter with fastener clips. Follow the instructions that come with your new sink regarding the placement of the clips. Either tighten them by hand or with a screwdriver, as indicated by the instructions. Once secured, they'll apply pressure to hold the sink tight to the underside of the counter.[12]
- Not all sinks require clips for installation. If your model does use clips, they should come in the package with your new sink. If you're missing a clip or 2, it's possible that the clips from your old sink may work.
- Run a bead of caulk around the rim of the sink where it meets the countertop. Your goal here is to create a waterproof barrier between the rim of the sink and the countertop so that water can't seep in under the sink rim. Once you've run the bead of caulk around the sink rim, wet your index finger and run it around the entire bead to smooth the caulk in place. Then use damp paper towels to wipe away any excess.[13]
- Use the same silicone caulk you used to adhere the underside of the sink to the countertop.
EditReplacing an Undermount Sink - Cut through the caulk that connects the sink to the underside of the counter. Reach into the sink from above and run the blade of a utility knife through the bead of caulk, all the way around the rim of the sink. Work carefully so you don't scratch the lip of the opening in the countertop.[14]
- This caulk helps to hold the undermount sink in place but is primarily there to prevent water from getting between the sink rim and the underside of the counter.
- Remove the holding clips under the sink while supporting it from below. Although it will be a tight fit in the sink cabinet, this is safer and easier with a second set of hands helping you. While the second person holds the bottom of the sink, remove the several clips (often 4-6) that pin the sink rim against the underside of the counter. They will either be screwed or epoxied into place.[15]
- If they're attached with screws, simply use a screwdriver to remove them.
- If they are stuck in place with epoxy, use a putty knife to scrape, pry, and wedge the clips apart from the underside of the counter.
- Once you remove the clips, the sink will be free to fall, so make sure it's being held up by someone!
- Lower the sink down and out of the cabinet. Now that the caulk and the clips have been removed, simply guide the sink downward and out of the cabinet. If you are reusing the existing faucet and drain, remove them now. But it's more likely that you'll want to install new ones with your new sink.[16]
- Install the faucet, but not the drain, in the new sink. Unlike with a top-mount sink, don't install the drain before installing an undermount sink. But it's easier to install the new faucet now instead of having to work from inside the sink cabinet.[17]
- Installing a faucet is within the skill set of most DIYers, but the process differs based on the type and model of faucet. Closely follow the instructions that come with the new faucet.
- Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the entire top rim of the sink. Use a silicone caulk designed for bathroom applications. Make sure the bead is continuous around the entire rim of the sink.[18]
- Like the stuff you removed from the old sink, this caulk is mostly there for waterproofing, but also helps hold the sink in place.
- Secure the sink in position with a piece of lumber and a bar clamp. Cut a section of lumber so it's at least a few inches/centimeters longer than the width of the opening for the sink in the countertop. Lay this piece of wood across the opening. Then, while a second person lifts the new sink up into place from beneath, feed the bar clamp up through the drain opening of the sink so that one of its clamps holds up the sink from below. Secure the other clamp to the piece of wood and tighten it.[19]
- Make sure the clamp is tight enough to make the some of the silicone caulk squeeze out between the rim of the sink and the underside of the counter. Wipe away this excess caulk with a damp rag.
- Secure the included clips in place with screws or epoxy. Your new undermount sink will come with support clips to place around the underside of the sink where it meets the underside of the counter. In some cases, these clips may attach with screws. If so, drill pilot holes and use a screwdriver to secure the clips in place. Otherwise, use the brand or type of epoxy recommended by the sink manufacturer.[20]
- In most cases, the clips are adhered in place with a 2-part epoxy that hardens in about 10 minutes after being combined. Follow the product instructions carefully and apply the proper amount to each clip. Then press them into place as per the installation instructions for your sink.
- Wait 24 hours, then install the drain. Even though the epoxy should be fully set in 10 minutes, it's important to give the silicone adhesive time to cure fully. Leave the piece of lumber and bar clamp in place for a day before removing them. After that, you can put the drain in place and continue with the installation.[21]
- Like faucets, drain installations vary by type and brand, but the process is DIY-friendly if you follow the instructions carefully.
- You could rely on the epoxy to hold everything in place after 10 minutes and not wait the full 24 hours before proceeding, but this is not recommended. Be patient!
EditMaking Final Connections and Testing - Allow the caulk on a top-mount sink to cure for 24 hours. Instead of making the final connections right away, it's better to give the silicone caulk time to set up. This will prevent the sink from shifting and breaking the solid bead of caulk that you made.[22]
- If you're installing an undermount sink, you should already have waited 24 hours before putting in the sink drain. In this case, you can proceed with the last steps of the installation.
- Reconnect the water lines and the P-trap underneath the sink. You just need to do the reverse of the disconnecting process. Hand-tighten the water lines where they connect to the hot and cold shutoff valves or use a crescent wrench if needed. Similarly, use your hands to tighten the nut on a PVC P-trap or channel locks for a metal P-trap.[23]
- If your new sink drain is a little shorter than your old one, you can buy a P-trap pipe extension at your local hardware store. The extension can be cut to fit and will also connect in place with a nut that you'll either hand-tighten or secure with channel locks.
- If your new sink drain is a little too long, you can cut off some of the pipe either at the top of the P-trap or the bottom of the drain. Use a hacksaw or pipe cutter to make the adjustment.
- Turn the water back on and check for leaks. Open the hot and cold water valves by turning them counterclockwise. Then, open the hot and cold faucet taps fully and let the water run for at least 2-3 minutes. Watch under the cabinet for any leaks in the water lines, drain lines, or elsewhere. Tighten any loose connections as needed.[24]
- Keep the bucket or towel at the bottom of the sink cabinet while you test for leaks.
- If you have a leak at a pipe connection, try shutting off the water, undoing the connection, wrapping some plumber's tape around the pipe threads, and then re-making the connection.
- If you can't figure out where a leak is coming from and/or how to fix it, shut off the water supply lines and call a plumber.
EditThings You'll Need - Measuring tape
- Pencil and paper
- New sink
- Channel lock pliers
- Crescent wrench
- Screwdriver
- Utility knife
- Silicone caulk
- Paper towels
- Fastener clips
- Plumber's tape
- New faucet
- Piece of lumber (for undermount sink)
- Bar clamp (for undermount sink)
- 2-part epoxy (for undermount sink)
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Display Christmas Cards Posted: 12 Dec 2018 12:00 AM PST In spite of electronic communications, sending Christmas cards is still a popular tradition. These cards hold a sentimental value to many people. Instead of letting them sit in a box and collect dust, you can always display them around your home during the holiday season. This way, you get to look at the treasured memories of past Christmases while decorating your home at the same time. EditHanging the Cards - Use clothespins to secure Christmas cards to evergreen garlands. Hang a garland over a window, doorway, or fireplace. Hold the card against the garland where you want it to go, then secure it with a wooden clothespin. Repeat this step as many times as you want to create your desired look.[1]
- Pin the cards to a strip of festive ribbon. Cut a strip of wide Christmas ribbon, then cut a V-shaped notch into each end. Use wooden clothespins to secure the cards to the ribbon, then hang the ribbon on your wall with poster putty or a thumb tack.[2]
- For a fancier look, hot glue a narrower ribbon in a contrasting color down the center of the first ribbon.
- Alternatively, you can hot glue the clothespins down the center of the ribbon. Make sure that they are all oriented vertically and pointing downward.
- Wrap festive ribbon around a Styrofoam wreath, then pin your cards to it. Wrap the ribbon around the wreath first until it is covered. Secure both ends of the ribbon to the back of the wreath with hot glue or U-pins. Tie some contrasting ribbon into a bow, then secure it to the top or bottom of the wreath with hot glue. Use wooden clothespins to secure the cards to the wrapped ribbon.[3]
- For a rustic touch, use burlap ribbon for wrapping the wreath, and red gingham ribbon for the bow.
- Overlap the ribbon with each wrap. The overlapped layers will create pockets for you to slip the clothespins into.
- Create a simple garland by pinning cards to yarn or baker's twine. Cut a long piece of yarn or baker's twine in a festive color, such as red or green. Tie a small loop onto each end of the string, then hang the string over a window, doorway, or fireplace mantle. Use wooden clothespins to secure your favorite cards to the string, like clothing to a line.[4]
- Pin cards to Christmas lights for a whimsical display. Purchase a short strand of Christmas lights with a white wire. Secure the lights to your wall using white or clear self-adhesive wall hooks (i.e. Command hooks). Use wooden clothespins to pin the cards to the Christmas lights. Plug the lights into an outlet, and remember to unplug them before going to bed or leaving your home.[5]
- Paint the clothespins white to match the wire. You can also paint them silver or gold to make them sparkle.
- You can use a battery-operated strand of Christmas lights. Secure the battery pack to the wall with mounting tape, or hide it behind a wreath, curtain, or Christmas tree.
EditStanding Up the Cards - Stand the cards up on the branches of your Christmas tree. Open the cards at a 45- to 90-degree angle, then stand them up on the branches of your Christmas tree. It would be best if you tuck the cards further into the tree; this way, the branches above the cards will help stabilize them.
- Display the cards along the top of your fireplace mantle. Open the cards at 45- to 90-degree angles and stand them up on top of your fireplace mantle. Leave of space between each card and both ends of the mantle. Place the cards right against the wall; if they are too close to the edge of the mantle, they could fall off and create a fire hazard.
- If you are worried about the cards falling off, you can secure them with festive place card holders.
- Consider adding 1 or 2 other items that are not cards to the mantle, such as a statue of an angel or a Nativity scene.
- For a more classic display, hang Christmas stockings from hooks on the mantle below the cards.
- Use a multi-prong photo holder to display your cards like photos. Get a multi-prong photo holder; it will look like a block with wires sticking out of it. Paint the block with acrylic paint in a festive color, such as red, green, or gold. Let the paint dry, then insert your cards into the clips at the ends of the wires.
- Your cards must be closed before you insert them, otherwise they will cause the photo holder to become unstable.
- If your photo holder is still too plain, decorate it with stripes, polka dots, or washi tape in another festive color.
- Create a rustic card holder using a vase, foam, and forks. Stick some Styrofoam or green florist's foam into a short vase or festive flower pot. Insert 3 to 5 long forks into the foam at various angles with the prongs facing up. Slide a closed Christmas card into each fork, weaving it behind middle prong(s) so that it stands upright.[6]
- Insert the forks deep enough so that they are stable. You want the handle to be part of the design.
- Wrap a wide Christmas ribbon around the middle of the vase or flower pot, then tie it into a bow for a festive touch.
- Tuck the cards into a floral arrangement made from evergreen branches. Fill a festive-looking vase with water, then add 3 or 5 evergreen branches. Tuck the cards into the branches. If possible, weave them between 3-pronged branches for extra stability.[7]
- If the branches are too tall for the vase, cut them down with pruning shears.
- Add some color to your arrangement with some holly, nandina, or pinecones.
- You can also use a pre-made floral arrangement. It can be made with fresh or artificial greenery.
EditAltering the Cards - Cut festive shapes out of the cards, then use them as ornaments. Use a pen and a cookie cutter to trace a festive shape onto your card. Cut the shape out with scissors, then punch a hole in the top with a hole puncher. Thread thin ribbon or yarn though the hole, then tie the ends together to make a loop.[8]
- Make sure that the color of your ribbon or yarn matches your card.
- Repeat this step as many times as you want to create a whole set of ornaments.
- You can also string all of the shapes onto a long piece of yarn, and use it as a garland instead.
- Punch holes into the tops of the cards, then string them together. Open up a Christmas card, and use a hole puncher to make a hole along the top edge of the folded part. Repeat this step with several cards, then string them onto a long piece of yarn. Tie small loops into each end of the yarn so that you can hang the garland.[9]
- Punching the holes along the spines will help keep the card facing forward.
- If you don't want the cards to hang open, tape them shut with double-sided tape.
- You can also thread these cards onto smaller pieces of yarn and turn them into ornaments instead.
- Punch holes to sides of your cards, then weave them onto a ribbon. Use a hole punch to punch a hole onto the left and right side edge of each card. Weave a wide, festive ribbon down and up through each hole, so that it doesn't cover the front of the cards. Space the cards apart, then secure the ribbon to a wall, mantle, window, or doorway with tape or thumb tacks.[10]
- Make a wreath by cutting cards into circles, then gluing them together. Use large, craft punches in different sizes to cut circles out of your cards. Glue the largest circles together to form a ring, then layer the smaller circles on top. Embellish the wreath with some glittery pompoms in matching colors, then hang it over a door knob.[11]
- Overlap your circles to make a more interesting look.
- Use a scalloped hole punch for a fancier wreath.
- Recycle cards by cutting them apart and turning them into new cards. Cut shapes and images out of your cards, such as an ornament or Christmas tree. Glue them on top of a folded piece of cardstock. Embellish the card with glitter glue, washi tape, ribbon, buttons, or other scrapbooking embellishments. Glue a folded sheet of white paper into the card, then write your message.[12]
- Use foam mounting tape to create layers.
- If you can't get clothespins, try binder clips or paperclips in festive colors instead.
- Make clothespins more festive by painting them red, white, or green first. Decorate them further with Christmas patterned washi tape.
- If your vase or flower pot aren't festive enough, you can always paint them with acrylic paint or spray paint.
- Red and green are popular Christmas colors, but so are white and blue. You can also use silver or gold as accent colors.
- If you have staircases, you can wrap garlands around the banister or in between the rails.
- Do not display the cards outside. They can get damaged by the weather, regardless of where you live.
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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