| How to Wash a Chest Binder Posted: 06 Oct 2018 05:00 PM PDT Many people who bind with chest binders have had the realization on laundry day that they need to wash their binder, and have no idea how to wash it. Since binders are considered delicates, they usually shouldn't be washed the same way you wash your normal clothes. While most binders come with instructions on how to wash them, if you lost the instructions or got a used binder without the instructions, there are some general tips that apply to washing any binder. EditHand-Washing Your Binder Hand-washing your binder will help it last longer. - Close any fastenings on your binder. If you have a binder that fastens shut, such as with a zipper or Velcro, close the fastenings before putting it in the wash, to ensure nothing is damaged.[1][2]
- Flip your binder inside-out. You'll want to turn your binder inside-out when you wash it, since the inside is the part that touches your skin the most and is more likely to get sweaty.
- Since you'll be hand-washing your binder, you'll have more control over what spots get washed, so while you do want to wash the inside, it's important to get the outside as well.
- Place your binder in water. Fill a sink - or even a plastic tub or bucket - with cool water and place your binder into the water. Some binders can be soaked, but don't soak it for too long to avoid a risk of damaging the fabric.
- Check the temperature before washing! It's a bad idea to throw a binder into hot water - it can damage the material and cause it to shrink (as well as hurt your hands). If you don't know the temperature recommendations for your specific binder, opt for cool water.
- Wash your binder with a mild or normal detergent. You don't need to do any harsh scrubbing or squeezing - just put some detergent into the water and use your hands to swirl and lightly knead your binder in the water.[3][4]
- If you don't have access to any detergent, bar soap will work in a pinch.[5]
- If you notice any stains on your binder, you can gently scrub the stain with your hands or with soap, but be careful not to be too rough.
- Don't use a strong detergent, bleaches, or softeners when washing your binder, as these can damage the material.[6]
- Rinse your binder thoroughly. After your binder has been cleaned well, fully rinse it with clean water, until there are no traces of bubbles or soap on the fabric.[7]
- Hang your binder up to dry. Once you've finished washing your binder, gently squeeze the extra water out, then place your binder on a hanger and hang it up somewhere to dry, such as near a window or on the door of your shower. It's also possible to dry your binder on a clothesline outside.
- It's best to dry your binder in a well-ventilated area.[8] However, if you need to hide your binder and can't dry it out in the open, find an option that isn't so visible, such as hanging it in your closet.[9]
- Do not put your binder in a dryer - this can damage the binder, cause it to shrink, and will shorten its lifespan.[10]
EditMachine-Washing Your Binder - Close any fastenings on your binder. If you have a binder that fastens shut, such as with a zipper or Velcro, close the fastenings before putting it in the wash, to ensure nothing is damaged.[11][12]
- Flip your binder inside-out. Since the inside of your binder is the part that touches your skin the most (and usually gets sweaty), turning it inside-out will help to clean it better. Since your binder is going in the washing machine, it will also help to protect any fastenings that your binder may have.
- It's recommended to wash any delicates inside-out.[13]
- Put your binder in a delicates bag, if possible. Chest binders are made of an elastic material, so it's recommended to put them in a bag for delicates (sometimes called lingerie bags) before putting them in with the wash. This will help protect the material.
- Binders can be put in the wash without being bagged,[14] but it's not recommended.
- Wash your binder with similar delicates, if possible. It's often best to machine-wash binders with other delicates of the same weight and color, since it gets more clothes cleaned in one wash.[15]
- If you don't have a lot of delicate clothes that you can wash your binder with, it's possible to put it in with your normal clothes.[16] Just be careful that your binder's fabric or fastenings won't snag on other things in the wash!
- Use cold water with mild or normal detergent. While it's recommended to use a mild detergent, these are more expensive, so using a normal detergent will work fine if you don't have it. However, you should only wash your binder in cold water - hot water will cause it to shrink.[17]
- Don't use strong detergents, bleach, or softeners - these will damage your binder.[18]
- Set the spin cycle to "gentle" or "delicates", if possible. A fast spin cycle can damage your binder (as well as other delicates).[19][20] If you don't have an option on your machine for delicates, though, a standard wash will still work, as long as it's not too rough.[21]
- Hang your binder up to dry. Once you've finished washing your binder, remove it from the delicates bag. Place it on a hanger and hang it up somewhere to dry, such as near a window or on the door of your shower, or on a clothesline outside.
- It's best to dry your binder in a well-ventilated area.[22] However, if you need to hide your binder and can't dry it out in the open, find an option that isn't so visible, such as hanging it in your closet.[23]
- Do not put your binder in a dryer - this can damage the binder, cause it to shrink, and will shorten its lifespan.[24]
- When putting your binder away, hanging it up will help it retain its shape better than if you were to put it in a drawer.[25]
- Binders don't usually need to be washed after one wear. Many people choose to wash their binders after a few days to a week of wear, but you should wash it by the time it begins to smell or look dirty.[26]
- Most tips that apply to washing any delicate clothes tend to apply to binders as well.
- Try searching for tips specific to your binder online. You can try asking on social media sites or just running simple Google searches. Some binder companies post cleaning instructions online, and lots of binder owners are willing to share their tips.
- Avoid putting your binder near a heat source, ironing it, or putting it in the dryer. The heat will cause it to shrink.[27][28]
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| How to Cook Chicken Alfredo Posted: 06 Oct 2018 09:00 AM PDT Chicken alfredo might seem like an indulgence that you can only order in a restaurant, but it's easy to make at home. Start by cooking fettuccine and seasoning chicken breasts. Then sauté the chicken breasts until they're golden brown and slice them into strips. To make the sauce, cook garlic with cream, butter, and Parmesan cheese until it thickens. Toss the pasta with the sauce and serve the chicken strips on top. Garnish the chicken alfredo with freshly chopped parsley and enjoy! EditIngredients - of dried fettuccine
- of boneless, skinless chicken breasts
- 1 teaspoon (6 g) of kosher salt, divided
- 1/2 teaspoon (1 g) of freshly ground black pepper, divided
- of canola oil
- 8 tablespoons (113 g) of unsalted butter, divided
- 2 cloves of garlic, minced
- of heavy cream
- 1 cup (100 g) of finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
- 1/4 teaspoon (0.5 g) of freshly grated nutmeg
- Coarsely chopped fresh parsley leaves, for serving
Makes 2 to 4 servings EditCooking the Pasta and Seasoning the Chicken - Boil of dried fettuccine for 8 to 10 minutes. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Stir in the dried pasta and set a timer according to the cooking time recommended on the package.[1]
- Stir the noodles occasionally as they cook to prevent them from clumping together.
- Reserve of the pasta water and drain the rest. Turn off the burner and scoop out of the water from the pasta pot. Set it aside and place a colander in the sink. Carefully pour the pasta into the colander so the rest of the water drains.[2]
- You'll use the reserved pasta water when you make the sauce.
- Sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper. Get out of boneless, skinless chicken breasts and pat them completely dry using paper towels. Set the chicken on a plate or cutting board and sprinkle 3/4 teaspoon (4.5 g) of the kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon (0.5 g) of the pepper evenly over the chicken.[3]
- Turn the chicken over so you can season the other sides as well.
EditCooking and Slicing the Chicken - Heat the canola oil over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Pour of canola oil into a large skillet or pot. Turn the burner to medium-high and let the oil heat until it shimmers.[4]
- Avoid using a nonstick pan because it will prevent the chicken from developing a nice crust.
- Lay the chicken in the skillet and cook it for 5 to 7 minutes. Slowly lower the seasoned chicken breasts into the hot oil and leave them to cook without moving them around.[5]
- Leaving the chicken undisturbed will help it develop a crisp brown crust.
- Flip and cook the chicken until it reaches . Use tongs or a spatula to flip the breasts over and put 1 tablespoon (14 g) of the butter in between them. Leave the chicken to cook undisturbed for another 5 to 7 minutes.[6]
- To ensure the chicken is finished cooking, insert an instant-read meat thermometer into the thickest part of a breast. It should reach .
- Remove and rest the covered chicken for 3 minutes. Turn off the burner and transfer the chicken breasts to a cutting board. Lay a piece of aluminum foil over the chicken and leave it to rest before you cut it.[7]
- The juices will redistribute within the meat as it rests.
- Slice the chicken into 1/2 in (1.3 cm) strips. Use a sharp knife to cut each chicken breast into evenly sized strips. Leave these on the cutting board and lay the aluminum foil back over them while you make the sauce.[8]
EditMaking the Alfredo Sauce - Sauté the garlic in the butter for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Put the remaining 7 tablespoons (100 g) of unsalted butter into the pan you used to cook the chicken. Turn the burner to medium heat so the butter melts. Stir in 2 cloves of minced garlic and cook it until it becomes fragrant.[9]
- Watch the garlic closely as you sauté it because it can burn easily.
- Whisk in the cream, cheese, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Slowly pour in of heavy cream as you whisk. Continue to whisk as you add 1 cup (100 g) of finely grated Parmesan cheese, 1/4 teaspoon (0.5 g) of freshly grated nutmeg, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon (1.5 g) of kosher salt, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon (0.5 g) of pepper.[10]
- You can also use cream labeled as "heavy whipping cream."
- Simmer and stir the alfredo sauce for 3 to 4 minutes. Keep the burner at medium heat and stir the sauce occasionally as it bubbles gently. If the sauce gets thicker than you'd like, stir in a few spoonfuls of the pasta water that you set aside earlier.[11]
- It's important to stir the alfredo sauce every once in a while so it doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan.
- Stir the drained pasta into the sauce. Turn off the burner and put the cooked fettuccine into the pot with the sauce. Use tongs or a spoon to toss the noodles so they're completely coated with the sauce.[12]
- Top with the chicken and parsley before you serve the dish. Divide the pasta among your serving dishes and divide the chicken strips between them. Sprinkle a little freshly chopped parsley and serve the chicken alfredo immediately.[13]
- If you like, add extra Parmesan cheese and black pepper.
- While you can refrigerate the leftovers in an airtight container for up to 3 days, the pasta sauce may separate.
- To make spicy alfredo, consider stirring 1 tablespoon (15 g) of pureed chipotle peppers in adobo sauce into the alfredo.
- Add sautéed mushrooms or steamed broccoli florets to the pasta for an extra serving of vegetables.
- For a stronger herb flavor, stir in more chopped fresh oregano, thyme, or parsley.
- If you're serving picky eaters, consider leaving the noodles, sauce, and chicken separate. Then let your guests serve themselves.
EditThings You'll Need - Large pot with a lid
- Colander
- Measuring cups and spoons
- Knife and cutting board
- Large skillet or pot
- Tongs or a spatula
- Spoon
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| How to Age Brass Hardware Posted: 06 Oct 2018 01:00 AM PDT As brass hardware ages, its surface oxidizes, which leaves a layer of tarnish over the hardware. Brand new brass hardware, such as drawer pulls, door handles, or towel bars, stays shiny and bright for decades because of a protective lacquer coating on the surface. However, by removing this protective coating and applying either ammonia fumes or brass ager to the surface, you can "age" your brass hardware to give it a pleasing tarnished look. EditRemoving the Lacquer Coating - Disassemble your hardware so you're only working with brass. During the aging process, you'll only want to be working with hardware made of brass. Remove your hardware from where it's installed and make sure the brass you're working with is not attached to a part of the hardware made of another substance.[1]
- For example, if you're aging a brass candle sconce that has a glass hurricane cover, remove and set aside the glass cover.
- Wipe the brass hardware clean. Use a clean, dry rag to remove any dust or foreign materials from the hardware. If your hardware is new or uninstalled, you might be able to skip this step.
- Whether you need to clean your hardware and how you should go about it will ultimately depend on how dirty it is. Use soapy water and a washcloth if your hardware is particularly dirty. If it's only a little dusty, just using a dry rag should suffice.
- Be careful not to use an abrasive scrubbing cloth, as this might damage the brass.[2]
- Create a hook from a wire coat hanger. Snip of wire from a coat hanger and use your needle nose pliers to bend a hook onto one end of the wire.[3]
- If you don't have a wire coat hanger, any form of malleable metallic wire will do.
- Soak the brass hardware in lacquer thinner for 12 hours. Pour lacquer thinner into a plastic bucket and use it to soak your brass hardware. Place enough thinner in the bucket so that you can completely submerge your brass hardware pieces in it. Leave the hardware in the bucket for at least 12 hours.[4]
- Don't inhale the fumes from the lacquer thinner; they can easily make you feel nauseous or lightheaded.[5]
- Remove the brass pieces from the lacquer thinner and dry them. Use the wired coat hanger to fish the brass out of the thinner. After removing the pieces from the lacquer thinner, blot the brass pieces dry and lay them over a separate clean, dry rag.[6]
- Avoid getting the thinner on your skin, as it can cause the skin to dry out and peel. Use rubber gloves and safety goggles if possible.
- Don't just pour your excess thinner down the drain once you've finished. Instead, dispose of it by throwing away the rags you used in a sealed metal container and taking the leftover thinner to a hazardous household waste collection facility.
- Reassemble and reinstall your hardware. After you've cleaned and dried the brass hardware and you're satisfied with how the aging turned out, reattach the brass to the fixture or area you originally removed it from.
EditUsing Brass Ager - Isolate the brass parts of the hardware. You should only use brass ager on hardware that is made of brass and not another material. Make sure whatever brass you're working with is not attached to hardware made of another substance.[7]
- Clean the brass pieces. Use a clean, dry rag to remove any dust or foreign materials from the hardware. If your hardware is new or uninstalled, you might be able to skip this step.
- Whether you need to clean your hardware and how you should go about it will ultimately depend on how dirty it is. Use soapy water and a washcloth if your hardware is particularly dirty. If it's only a little dusty, just using a dry rag should suffice.
- Avoid using an abrasive scrubbing cloth, as this might damage the brass.[8]
- Pour brass ager into a glass container. Pour enough ager into the container so that you can fully submerge your brass hardware in the liquid. You can also use a plastic container to hold the ager.[9]
- Brass ager is a type of antiquing solution specifically used for brass. You can typically find brass ager at any department store and some online retailers.
- Be sure to wear protective gloves when handling or working with brass ager.
- Dip the brass hardware in the ager for at least 30 seconds. Use latex or rubber gloves and submerge the hardware completely in the ager. Leave it submerged for at least 30 seconds before removing it.[10]
- You can leave the hardware in the brass ager for longer than 30 seconds if you want to achieve a darker, more aged look. However, don't leave your hardware in the brass ager for more than 10 minutes.
- Rub the brass piece with steel wool to remove unwanted discoloration. The brass ager will significantly age and darken whatever hardware you've submerged in it. Use steel wool to remove this discoloration on parts of the hardware where you would normally see wear.[11]
- For example, if you're aging a brass doorknob, you may want the places where people's fingers normally touch the knob to have more of a worn look instead of an aged look.
- Dip the hardware in cold water and then dry it with a soft rag. Dipping the brass hardware in cold water will stop the aging process. After it's dried, it's ready to be reattached.[12]
- Be careful not to use an abrasive scrubbing cloth, as this might damage the brass.
- Polish the hardware and repeat this process if you don't like it. If you don't like how the aging turned out, it's no problem! Simply polish the hardware completely and start the process over from the beginning.[13]
- To polish the brass, simply use brass cleaner and a microfiber cloth.
- Put the hardware back together then reinstall it. Once the brass hardware has been cleaned and dried and you're satisfied with how the aging turned out, reattach the brass to the fixture or area you originally removed it from.
EditAging Brass with Saltwater and Ammonia - Take off any parts not made of brass. Disassemble the hardware and remove the brass pieces. This method should only be applied to brass hardware; using it on materials made of plastic or glass may leave those pieces discolored.[14]
- Remove any dust or dirt from the brass. Use a clean, dry rag to remove any dust or foreign materials from the hardware. If your hardware is new or uninstalled, you might be able to skip this step.
- Whether you need to clean your hardware and how you should go about it will ultimately depend on how dirty it is. Use soapy water and a washcloth if your hardware is particularly dirty. If it's only a little dusty, just using a dry rag should suffice.
- Be careful not to use an abrasive scrubbing cloth, as this might damage the brass.[15]
- Punch a hole through the center of a coffee can lid. Use a hammer and nail to punch a small hole in the center of the coffee can lid that is big enough for the coat hanger wire to pass through.[16]
- Run the hanger wire through the hole and secure it to the lid. Once you've made a hole in the coffee can lid, poke your hanger's unhooked end through the hole and bend it into a right angle so it can hold itself in place.[17]
- Once the wire hanger is secured to the lid, make sure it's able to hold the weight of your brass hardware before you actually use it. Hook your hardware onto the wire and hold the lid up to make sure the wire doesn't fall through the hole in the lid.
- Mix saltwater in a plastic bucket and dip your brass piece in the liquid. Combine of water and of salt in a clean plastic bucket. After the salt has dissolved, use the hook end of your lid-hook configuration to dip your brass hardware into the liquid and hold it there for 30 seconds.[18]
- Pour of household ammonia into a metal coffee can. Avoid overdoing it on the ammonia; you only need to pour enough in the coffee can to produce fumes and don't want it to actually be touching the brass hardware.[19]
- Note that the coffee can you use needs to be metallic; cans made of plastic or other materials can't be used to safely hold and heat ammonia.
- You can buy household ammonia at most mass retailers and certain grocery stores.
- Use your lid-hook configuration to hang the hardware piece in the can. Replace the lid on the coffee can so the hardware piece dangles inside the can. Make sure that the brass piece doesn't touch the ammonia during this process.[20]
- Apply heat to the can's bottom area with a hair dryer for 2 minutes. This will release ammonia fumes onto the brass hardware and age it.[21]
- Remove the lid from the can after 2 minutes of heat application and rinse. Be sure you don't inhale the ammonia fumes when you remove the lid, as it will burn and may cause lung damage. After you're safely removed the lid, take the hardware off the wire hook and rinse it thoroughly with cold water.[22]
- Repeat as necessary. If you're not happy with your results, repeat the process to further age the brass hardware. Simply re-dip it in the salt solution, place the lid-hook configuration back on the coffee can, and apply heat for another 2 minutes.[23]
- Reattach the hardware when you're done. Once the brass hardware has been cleaned and dried and you're satisfied with how the aging turned out, reattach the brass to the fixture or area you originally removed it from.
- If the brass hardware you're aging is attached to a fixture with screws, make sure you age the screw heads as well, since they'll be visible once you reattach the hardware.
- If your hardware isn't solid brass, but is instead brass plated, proceed with the aging process with caution. The process may completely remove the brass plating. If you aren't sure if the hardware is sold brass, scratch it in an unnoticeable area, such as the back of a faucet or the top of a hanging hardware. If scratching reveals more brass or a yellow color, the hardware is solid. Colors such as red or white mean you're probably dealing with bronze, steel or another inexpensive metal.
EditThings You'll Need EditRemoving the Lacquer Coating - Clean, dry rags
- Wire coat hanger
- Wire snips
- Needle nose pliers
- Large plastic bucket
- Lacquer thinner
EditUsing Brass Ager - Brass ager
- Glass container
EditAging Brass with Saltwater and Ammonia - Metal coffee can with fitted metal lid
- Nail
- Hammer
- Household ammonia
- Hair dryer
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