How to Make a Grapefruit Smoothie Posted: 15 Jun 2018 05:00 PM PDT The ingredients in this smoothie including grapefruit, strawberries, apple, ginger, and water are know for their great health benefits. Grapefruit can lower cancer risks[1], strawberries can reduce inflammation, ginger can aid nausea[2], apples can reduce diabetes risks[3][4], and water helps hydrate our bodies[5]. This smoothie is a powerhouse for the body. EditIngredients - 1 grapefruit
- 2 cups (145 g) strawberries
- chopped ginger
- 1 apple
- water
- Cut the grapefruit into cubes or slices. Remove the skin, either with your hands or a knife, then chop the grapefruit into slices and cut it into cubes.
- Chop the apple. Cut the apple into small cubes with a knife however, don't remove the skin as it contains many nutrients (e.g. fiber)[6].
- Chop the strawberries. Quarter the strawberries by cutting them in half vertically and horizontally. Decide if you want to remove the leaves or use them.
- Add ingredients into blender. Add in the chopped grapefruit, strawberries, apple, ginger, and water into the blender.
- Blend the ingredients. Once all the ingredients are added, blend on high for a minute, or until the smoothie is smooth and lump-free.
- Pour into a glass. Distribute the smoothie into a drinking glass.
- Serve. Pop a straw into the smoothie and enjoy!
- Since this smoothie is not very sweet add in a ripe banana or dates for a hint of sweetness.
- Throw in some chia seeds or hemp hearts for even more healthy nutrients.
- Avoid adding refined sugar into this smoothie as it will make the smoothie less healthy.
- Reuse the grapefruit peel by making a facial mask or even tea. However, you'll have to get organic grapefruits without pesticides if you choose to do this.
- Replace the water with almond milk for a more creamy smoothie.
- Pour the smoothie into a mason jar cup to take it on the go.
EditThings You'll Need - Knife
- Blender
- Serving glass
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How to Test Fluorescent Bulbs Posted: 15 Jun 2018 09:00 AM PDT A flickering or dead fluorescent bulb can be a nuisance and it may be time to replace it. Before going out to purchase a new bulb, ensure the bulb is the main problem. By checking for surface-level issues, cleaning the parts, and looking at the electronics, you can determine whether you have an easy fix or a trip to the hardware store. EditLooking for Surface Issues - Look for dark areas at the base of the bulb. When bulbs age and have been used for a long time, brown spots will appear. If darkness begins to form at the ends of the tube, the bulb may be near its end. While they may still light, they are wearing out and will die soon.
- If the darkness only forms on one end of a tube light, flip the tube so the darkened end is on the opposite side of the fixture.
- If darkness forms on one side of the tube, rotate the tube by 180 degrees from how it used to sit.[1]
- Inspect the pins at the end of the bulbs. The pins of the electrode connect the light bulb to the power source. If the pins are bent or misaligned, use needle-nose pliers to straighten them before returning them to the fixture.[2]
- Test the bulb in a working fixture. Remove the bulb from the fixture in question and test it in another lamp. If the problem lies within the lamp, the bulb should work in a separate fixture.
- If testing tube lights, be sure to test both bulbs even if only one is out. Currents travel between both tubes and either could be causing the problem.[3]
EditChecking the Electrical Components - Check your electrical panel box. Ensure the circuit is not broken. If the breaker has been tripped, push the switch entirely to the off position, and flip the switch back on. Test the lamp again to see if it lights.[4]
- Test the electrodes using a multimeter. Using a multimeter will determine if the electrodes still hold conductivity. If the electrodes are not intact, the bulb will not have a current running through it.[5] Place the probes on both pins of the tube light to get an accurate reading.
- If there is no reading on the multimeter, the bulbs should be replaced.
- Replace the starter on the bulb if problems persist. Older fluorescent fixtures will have small metal cylinders called 'starters' on the ends. The starter ignites the gas within the bulb and is crucial for lighting the bulb.[6] Many hardware stores will carry replacements for only a few dollars.
- Note the wattage of the bulb to ensure the correct starter is purchased.
- Old starters look no different than new starters, so throw away any starters that have gone bad.
EditCleaning the Bulb - Wiggle the bulb in its socket. Rocking the bulb back and forth in small motions can help loosen corrosion and dust that may have gathered near the socket. Clean any leftover residue with a fresh paper towel.
- Make sure the power is turned off to avoid any electrical damage.
- Wipe the bulb with a cloth soaked in dish detergent. Some bulbs will not light if they are covered in dirt or dust. Remove the bulb and gently use a cloth on the surface. When finished, wipe the soap clean with another cloth soaked in water.[7]
- Be careful handling a fluorescent tube. They're fragile and have potential to break into shards.
- Scrub the pins of the electrode with a fine sandpaper. Clear away any corrosion or residue as you rub the pins. Small particles like these restrict the electric current and may be the source of your trouble. Use a cloth or paper towel to remove any loose particles before returning the bulb to the fixture.[8]
- If the bulb still does not light, the gas may have leaked out and the bulb will need to be replaced.
- When working with electronics, make sure the power source is off to avoid electric shock.
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How to Store Art Posted: 15 Jun 2018 01:00 AM PDT Whether you collect art as a hobby or have a studio of your own, you may eventually need to place your artwork in storage. To properly protect and store your artwork, you have to choose a storage environment and packing materials that won't cause premature aging or damage. Handle all work with care. EditSelecting a Suitable Location - Pick a room that's as dark as possible. Light is one of artwork's biggest enemies. It can cause all sorts of damage, so you want to store your art in a dark place. Choose a windowless room, such as a finished basement or study, to store your artwork.[1]
- Keep the room at a temperature of about . For most artworks, a steady, cool temperature is ideal. More extreme climates can crack paint, warp or yellow paper, and foster mold growth.[2]
- If the room you've selected goes through drastic changes in temperature during different seasons, you should pick another location to store your art.
- If you are not storing art in your home, your next-best option is a storage unit. Give nearby storage companies a call and ask if they have temperature-controlled units available.
- If you have a local art gallery near you, you can call and ask them for recommended storage services.[3]
- Maintain a humidity of 50% in the storage room. Materials like paint and wood are especially sensitive to humidity. Keeping a constant, moderate level of humidity in the storage area will keep your artwork from changing shape or getting moldy.[4] You can moderate the room's humidity using a humidifier or dehumidifier.[5]
EditPreparing Your Art for Storage - Put on gloves before touching any art. Some art materials are hypersensitive, even to the natural oils on your fingertips. Wearing cotton or powder-free latex gloves when handling your art can prevent you from accidentally causing it harm.[6]
- Check to see if all works are dry. If you're storing any paintings, sculptures, or ceramics, make sure they're completely dry before handling. Some artwork, such as oil paintings, can take up to an entire year to dry.[7]
- Clean your art. Cleaning artwork before storage will help extend its lifespan. A dry microfiber cloth, rag, or paper towel is enough to clean most artwork. Gently sweep it across frames, glass panes, ceramics, and acrylic paintings. You can brush over painted surfaces, drawings, and mixed media with a wide, soft makeup or paint brush.[8]
- Clean metal sculptures or frames with an oil-based polish and buff with a dry rag.[9]
- You can use masking tape to gently lift dust off of an oil painting.[10]
- Protect framed paintings with acid-free tissue. Acid is in many paper and packing materials, and will age art much faster and can change its color. Using acid-free tissue, wrap around the painting to protect it and give it breathing room. Then roll it into a padding, like bubble wrap, to protect the frame.
- You can wrap paintings with plastic wrap instead of tissue, but you risk sealing humidity inside. If your art is part of a valuable collection, steer clear of it.[11]
- Group smaller prints together in a folder. Put acid-free paper or tissue between the prints if they are unprotected. Slip your prints into sturdy folders, with about 10-15 in each.[12]
- Seal unframed paper in glassine. Glassine is a material used by archivists to preserve unframed artwork and documents. You can purchase glassine online, at a printmaking shop, or in an art supply store. Cut a sheet of glassine about two times the size of each piece. Wrap it as you might a present, then tape it facedown onto a piece of foamcore.[13]
- You also have the option to roll your work into the glassine, but it may be more difficult to flatten once you remove it from storage.
- Wrap sculptures and other 3D objects in bubble wrap. When preparing to store sculptures, wrap them in bubble wrap. Use multiple layers if necessary. Tape the bubble wrap in place.
- Place all wrapped artwork into boxes. You should try to give each item its own sturdy cardboard box, though you can place folders horizontally in a box together. Once you've put your art in boxes, stuff the rest of each box with newspaper to prevent the art from shifting around.[14]
EditHousing Your Art - Handle one piece at a time. You don't want to ruin all of your hard work and preparation by trying to store it too quickly. Move your artwork piece by piece when putting it into storage.[15]
- Label and keep a record of your stored art. Using tape and a permanent marker, label all the boxes of artwork. Include each work's title and artist on your label. Create a spreadsheet or written record of what art you've stored and where it's located.[16]
- Keep art off of the ground. You never want your artwork touching the storage room floor. Place smaller boxes on shelves or in drawers. Larger boxes can be elevated on racks or risers.[17]
- Stand paintings on their sides in boxes or on storage racks. You want to avoid putting any pressure on paintings, so don't stack them flat. Stand them on their sides and place them next to one another as you would if you were putting books on a bookshelf.[18]
- Check your art for damage every few months or so. Even if you've set up perfect conditions for your artwork, problems and subtle changes can still arise in the storage environment. Checking in on it is the best method to catch any potential issues early on. Take a look at your collection once in a while make sure it's performing well and hasn't changed or had any unwelcome visitors (e.g. pests, mold).[19]
- Look for these signs of pests in your storage area: entry or exit holes, fur, fallen particles from feeding, droppings, or cocoon cases.[20]
- Leave traps of your choice once you've found signs of infestation.
- Mold will appear as fine webbing, or clusters of spotty or fuzzy material. If your collection feels damp or smells musty, this can also indicate mold. Reduce the humidity level in the room, then go online or consult an expert for how to appropriately handle the variety of mold that has invaded.[21]
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