| How to Get Rid of Japanese Knotweed Posted: 11 Dec 2017 04:00 PM PST Japanese knotweed is an invasive ornamental plant that can be tough to remove. It grows to heights of , and the roots can be twice that deep. Japanese knotweed spreads relentlessly and grows back year after year, meaning you should use a multifaceted approach to eradicate it from your lawn or garden. Don't despair, however: with a little time, effort, and patience you can get rid of Japanese knotweed for good. EditRemoving Japanese Knotweed - Cut down and remove the canes. Japanese knotweed will not regrow from cut canes, so it's important to trim down as many as you can. Use loppers to cut off the canes as close to the ground as possible, then remove the cut pieces from your lawn or garden.[1]
- Apply glyphosate weedkiller. Glyphosate weedkiller, like Roundup, can help you get rid of Japanese knotweed. Take care to apply it only to the weeds, as it will kill nearly any vegetation it touches. Spray the weedkiller onto the plants immediately after cutting down the canes.[2]
- If the knotweed has invaded your garden to the point where you can't spray weedkiller for fear of ruining other plants, paint a glyphosate gel on the individual canes and leaves instead.
- Wait 7 days before pulling the weeds after using weedkiller. After applying glyphosate, don't disturb the plants for at least 7 days. This gives the herbicide time to penetrate the root zone of the plant. Avoid cutting the canes or mowing down the plant for a week. Then, pull out and remove all the dead knotweed, taking care to dig out the deep roots with a pitchfork as well.[3]
- Mow the plants down weekly. If you continually cut the remaining aboveground portions of Japanese knotweed, the plant may weaken and die. To remove remaining or regrowing weeds, mow the plants down as short as possible each week to help kill them off.[4]
- Reapply glyphosate several times. Unfortunately, using glyphosate once won't eradicate a Japanese knotweed infestation. It's recommended that you apply glyphosate weedkiller twice per year: late spring/early summer and again in the early fall.[5]
- Contact a professional if all else fails. Japanese knotweed can be quite difficult to remove, so don't get discouraged if your attempts fail to eradicate it completely. Do an Internet search for companies that specialize in removing this stubborn weed and ask them to inspect your property and give you an estimate for removal. Though you'll have to shell out some money, many companies guarantee their work, making it a worthwhile expense.[6]
EditDisposing of Japanese Knotweed - Look up the regulations concerning Japanese knotweed in your area. Because Japanese knotweed is classified as "controlled waste" by the 1990 Environmental Protection Act, many places, like the United Kingdom, require you to dispose of it at a licensed landfill site. Do an Internet search to find out the rules regarding Japanese knotweed disposal for the region where you live.[7]
- Gather the knotweed for proper disposal. Fill trash bags with the Japanese knotweed you want to get rid of so it can be easily transported. You can reduce the volume you need to dispose of by burning the weed. Let cut canes of Japanese knotweed dry out for a week or so, then burn them in a controlled setting such as a fire pit. After the burnt waste has cooled, gather it into containers for transport to an approved facility.[8]
- Keep plenty of water nearby to put out the fire, and practice fire safety to ensure no one gets hurt.
- Research and follow all local fire laws and regulations before burning yard waste. Burning is not allowed in all areas.
- Arrange for a registered carrier to transport it to a licensed landfill site. If you live somewhere that prohibits you from tossing this weed in the compost or trash bin, you'll need to arrange for a registered carrier to take the Japanese knotweed to a licensed landfill site. The registered carrier's vehicle must be thoroughly cleaned after transport as well to keep the rhizomes from spreading to the ground and taking root.[9]
- Do an Internet search to find a registered carrier and licensed landfill site near you.
- Throw the knotweed in the trash, if allowed. If there are no regulations dictating how you must dispose of Japanese knotweed, you can simply put it in the trash. Avoid using the dead plants for compost, though, or the knotweed will continue to sprout and spread.
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Use a Sharpening Steel Posted: 11 Dec 2017 08:00 AM PST If you bought a set of knives, it probably came with a sharpening, or honing, steel. Honing will keep your blades sharper for longer, especially since honing will not remove part of the metal blade like sharpening does. When you use the honing steel properly, you can actually push the blade of a knife back into the correct position. Hold the honing steel vertically and move the knife blade down at an angle. Maintain your sharp knives to prevent damage to the blades. EditPositioning Your Tools - Hold the sharpening steel point-down on your work surface. Hold the handle of the honing steel in your non-dominant hand, so that it's protected by the guard at the top of the handle. Point the tip of the steel down onto a sturdy work surface. The honing steel should be completely vertical.[1]
- The honing steel should be firmly pressed against the work surface so it won't slide when you begin honing the knife.
- Position the steel at arm's length in front of you. To prevent injury, keep the honing steel arm's length in front of you. Even if the honing steel slips, it will be far enough from you to prevent the knife blade from cutting you.[2]
- Place the knife blade against the honing steel. Take the knife you want to hone and press the bottom (heel) of it against the top of the steel. The blade should be near the handle and positioned as if you were going to cut into the honing steel.[3]
- Angle the knife at 15 to 20 degrees. Tilt the knife so it's at a 15 to 20 degree angle. You can adjust the degree to a lower angle for a sharper edge, or a higher angle for a more durable one.
EditHoning the Knife - Run the blade down the steel as you pull it toward you. Smoothly bring the knife down and towards yourself on the honing steel. Keep the knife at the same angle as you move the knife. The tip of the knife should be at the base of the steel.[4]
- You only need to apply light pressure as you move the blade. You should also move the blade slowly to reduce the risk of cutting yourself.
- Run the other side of the knife down the steel. Keep holding the honing steel vertically. To hone the other side of the knife, place the bottom (heel) of the blade on the other side of the steel near the top. Apply light pressure and bring the blade down the steel.[5]
- Hone each side of the knife blade 5 to 10 times. Depending on how hard or dull your knife is, you'll need to run each side of the blade down the honing steel 5 to 10 times. You can either completely hone one side at a time or alternate them so long as you hone them the same number of times.[6]
- Wipe the blade clean with a soft cloth. Rinse the blade of the knife under running water and then dry the blade with a soft cloth. While honing shouldn't remove metal from the blade, microscopic metal filings might have come off the blade.
- Test the sharpness of the knife. If your knives still won't cut through paper after you've used the honing steel, they may be too dull, pitted, or nicked. You can either use a sharpening stone, electric knife sharpener, or have the knives professionally sharpened.[7]
EditMaintaining Your Knives - Check the sharpness of your knives frequently. Determine which of your knives needs honing by holding up a piece of newspaper. Slice down through the paper with a knife. If the knife is sharp, it will easily and cleanly cut right through. If the knife is dull, it won't pass through the paper or it might tear it.[8]
- Hone or sharpen your knives often. Hone the knives as soon as they begin to feel a little dull or resist cutting. If you cook frequently, you might need to hone several times a day. You should also sharpen your knives once honing no longer improves your knives. You may need to sharpen the knives only once or twice a year.[9]
- If you're cutting through something very hard, like a large cut of meat with bones, you might need to stop and hone the knife while you're cutting the meat.
- Hand wash your knives to prevent damage to the blades. While many knives are sold as being dishwasher safe, never use the machine to wash your knives. Moisture can get into the handle and damage the knife. Instead, wash your knives in the sink and take care to avoid bumping the blade against other dishes.[10]
- Store the knives in a block or rack to protect the blades. Consider storing your knives in a knife block or on a magnetic knife rack. It's important to store the knives in a way that prevents the blades from knocking into other utensils. Protect the blades to keep the knives sharp.
- Use your knife on wood or plastic surfaces. Avoid using cutting boards or counters made of stone, glass, or tile. Cutting on these surfaces will dull your knife blades quickly. Instead, only cut on wood or plastic surfaces.[11]
- Avoid honing serrated knives because these require a lot of skill to hone or sharpen.
- Always use caution when handling dull or sharp knives.
EditThings You'll Need - Knives
- Honing steel
- Soft cloth
- Paper
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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| How to Crochet the Waffle Stitch Posted: 11 Dec 2017 12:00 AM PST The waffle stitch is a distinct, textured crochet stitch that resembles a waffle. The pattern is achieved by using a combination of double crochet stitches and front post double crochet stitches. It is an easy stitch to learn as long as you have mastered the basics of crochet, such as how to chain and double crochet. Try making a washcloth, scarf, or hat with this fun textured crochet stitch! EditCreating Your Foundation Row - Chain a multiple of 3. You can make your waffle stitch crocheted item as small or as large as you want, but the starting chain needs to be a multiple of 3. Make a slipknot to get started and then yarn over and pull through the slipknot to make your first chain. Yarn over and pull through twice more to make your first 3 chain stitches.[1] Keep chaining multiples of 3 until you are happy with the length.[2]
- If you just want to practice this stitch, then try making a chain of 12. This will allow you to create a sample swatch.
- For a larger item, such as a washcloth, scarf, or blanket, make chains in multiples of 3 until the chain is the length that you want the finished project to be.
- Double crochet across the chain. To complete your foundation row, you will need to double crochet into each of the chains in your first row. Start with the third chain from the hook and double crochet to the end.[3]
- To double crochet, yarn over the hook, then insert the hook into both of the top loops in the next stitch. Yarn over again and pull through 1 loop. Then, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops. Then, yarn over again and pull through the last 2 loops.[4]
- Turn and chain 3. After you reach the end of the chain, turn your work and then chain 3 to begin the next row. This chain of 3 will provide slack to continue working your project.[5]
EditWorking the Second Row - Double crochet into the next stitch. The first stitch you make for the second row will be a regular double crochet stitch. Work the stitch into the stitch next to the turning chain you have made.[6]
- Go behind the next stitch to make a front post double crochet stitch. Next, you need to work a double crochet stitch into the back of one of your stitches from the previous row. This is called a front post double crochet stitch. The only difference between a front post double crochet stitch and regular double crochet stitch is that after you yarn over for the first time, you need to insert the hook behind the stitch rather than going into it. Insert your hook behind the stitch that is just below your next stitch. Then, yarn over again and complete the double crochet stitch as usual.[7]
- Make sure to work the front post double crochet stitch behind the top of your last double crochet stitch, and not into the stitch. Working the stitch this way will push the yarn forward and help to form the waffle pattern.[8]
- Double crochet into the next two stitches. After you complete the front post double crochet stitch, work a regular double crochet stitch into each of the next 2 stitches. These stitches will sit further back from the front post double crochet stitch and you should start to see the beginnings of a waffle pattern.[9]
- Repeat the process to the end of the row. Continue to work 1 front post double crochet stitch followed by 2 regular double crochet stitches. Do this all the way to the end of the row.[10]
- Chain 3 and turn. After you complete this row, make a chain of 3 and then turn your work around. This will serve as your turning chain and provide slack to begin the next row.[11]
EditWorking the Third Row - Double crochet into the next stitch. You will be working the third row and all other odd rows on the wrong side (also known as the back side) of your project. Work a double crochet stitch into the stitch next to the chain of 3 you just made.[12]
- Work a double crochet stitch into the front of the next two stitches. Follow up your first double crochet stitch with 2 front post double crochet stitches. Work these stitches behind each of the next 2 double crochet stitches in your row.[13]
- Repeat this process to the end. Continue to work 1 double crochet stitch followed by 2 front post double crochet stitches all the way to the end of your third row. You should now notice a distinct waffle pattern on the right side of your work.[14]
- Finish the row with a front post double crochet stitch. To complete your third row, work a front post double crochet stitch around the chain of 3 at the end of your row. This will have the same effect as the normal double crochet stitch that you are using to end your right side rows.[15]
- Repeat the second and third rows. To keep working the waffle stitch, keep repeating the second and third rows. Do this until your crocheted piece reaches the desired size, and then tie off your last stitch and cut the excess yarn.
- Make sure that you use a crochet hook that is appropriate for your yarn type. For example, a size I-9 (5.5 mm) or H-8 (5.0 mm) works well if you are using medium worsted weight yarn. Check the label on your yarn for a recommendation.
- Try making washcloths and blankets using the waffle stitch. This stitch is perfect for items that you would like to add texture to.
EditThings You'll Need - Yarn in any color or type
- Crochet hook that is appropriate for the type of yarn you are using. Check the label for a recommendation.
- Scissors
EditSources and Citations
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