| How to Fix Sinkholes Posted: 01 Dec 2017 04:00 PM PST Sinkholes develop when soft rock underground—e.g. limestone, gypsum, or other carbonate rock—wears away over time. This is known as "karst" terrain. Eventually, the unsupported sediment above the underground hole collapses, leaving the sinkhole open.[1] Typically, property owners don't realize that their houses are built on karst terrain, and so sinkholes appear unexpectedly and without warning. To fill a sinkhole, you'll first need to pour a concrete plug in the bottom of the hole. Then, fill the rest of the sinkhole with clayey sand and top it off with a layer of topsoil. EditMeasuring the Sinkhole - Monitor the hole to see if it grows. Sinkholes are often triggered by weather phenomena, such as a heavy rainstorm. Once a sinkhole has formed, though, it can continue to grow, as further portions of limestone or other carbonate rocks fall away. As long as a sinkhole continues to grow on a day-by-day basis, do not attempt to fill it in.[2]
- Once the sinkhole has stopped growing and remained the same size for a few days, you can fill it in.
- Probe the size and depth of the sinkhole. Only relatively small, shallow sink-holes can be filled by homeowners. Take a pole or stick (even a tree branch would do), and probe around in the sinkhole. Note how deep and wide it is.[3]
- Do not attempt to fill in a sinkhole larger than (m) in diameter.[4] Large sinkholes can be deep and potentially dangerous.
- If the sinkhole is deeper than chest height, do not step down inside of it. Deep sinkholes, and holes with steep walls, pose a high risk of collapse.[5]
- Call a professional landscaping company. If you're concerned about working in and around a sinkhole, or if you think that the sinkhole is too large for you to fill, it's time to call professionals. Use internet resources to find a local landscaping company, and explain that you're hoping to have a sinkhole on your property filled in.[6]
- Landscaping companies will have more experience in dealing with this phenomena than the average homeowner.
- When dealing with very large sinkholes, you'll need to contact local authorities in the city or county in which the sinkhole has appeared.
EditPouring a Concrete Plug - Dig out the sinkhole's outer edges. The sinkhole may be larger underground than it appears on the surface. To determine the true extent of the sinkhole, use a shovel to expand the size of the sinkhole. Continue to remove the edges of the hole until you reach a point at which the topsoil and sediment are supported by solid rock.[7]
- Also remove any loose debris that may be in the sinkhole: tree branches, pinecones, etc.
- Mix dry concrete powder with water. Start out by pouring about a third of the concrete mix into a large basin, such as a wheelbarrow. Pour in about (1 L) of water, and mix thoroughly with a hoe or shovel. Continue to add water until the concrete is wet throughout and a heavy putty consistency.[8]
- You can buy 80-pound (36 kg) bags of quick-mixing concrete at your local hardware store or home-supply store.
- The size and depth of the sinkhole will determine how much concrete you need to mix.
- Pour a concrete plug in the sinkhole. Using the wheelbarrow and the shovel, pour wet concrete into the bottom of the sinkhole. This will prevent the sinkhole from deepening further, and will give a solid base to the subsequent materials you use to fill the hole.[9] Aim to fill at least a quarter of the hole with concrete. So, if the sinkhole is (1.2 m) deep, fill it with 1 foot (0.3 m) of concrete.
- You do not need to let the concrete dry before you move on to filling the hole with sand and soil.
- A "plug" simply means that you'll fully fill the bottom of the sinkhole with concrete.
EditFilling the Sinkhole - Add clayey sand on top of the concrete plug. Thick, clayey sand will provide a heavy filling for the sinkhole which prevents water from collecting in the re-filled sinkhole. Using your shovel, scoop the sand out of a wheelbarrow or truck bed and deposit it into the hole.[10] Fill the hole with sand until it's about ¾ full.
- Sand can be purchased at most large hardware stores, home-supply stores, or landscape-supply stores. If none of these venues sell clayey sand, contact a building contractor in your area.
- Most contracting companies will have a sand supplier that they may put you in touch with.
- Fill the hole with topsoil. Fill whatever depth remains to the sinkhole with topsoil. This will bring the materials you used to fill the hole up to the level of the surrounding yard or terrain. Finishing the hole with topsoil will also allow plants to grow on top of the former sinkhole and stabilize the soil and sand.[11]
- Topsoil can be purchased by the bag at any gardening center or home-supply store.
- Top off the hole with more soil in a few days. Over time, the sand and topsoil that you've added to the sinkhole will compact and settle. This will leave open room at the top of the sinkhole again. Use the rest of the topsoil to fill in the hole until it's once again at the level of the surrounding terrain.[12]
- Repeat this process more than once, if necessary. The materials filling the sinkhole are likely to settle following heavy rain or runoff.
- There are two types of sinkholes. Cover-collapse sinkholes appear in minutes, when weather phenomena (like a downpour of rain) cause the layer of limestone or other carbonate rock on top of the sinkhole to collapse rapidly. Cover-subsidence sinkholes collapse much more slowly, as underground limestone slowly wears away and unsupported topsoil and other sediment slip underground.[13]
- Although not technically "sinkholes," sinkhole-like depressions can appear when old building materials (leftover boards and planks, etc.) which were buried by construction workers near a building site, begin to decay. Soil will sink in on top of the decaying materials.
- If a sinkhole appears on property that you own, it's your responsibility to repair. It would be worthwhile, though, to contact your insurance company and inform them of the hole.[14]
- If a sinkhole is threatening your house (or another structure), evacuate immediately. Sinkholes can grow without warning, and your top priority should be the safety of yourself and your family.[15]
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Paint Red Poinsettias in Watercolor Posted: 01 Dec 2017 08:00 AM PST Poinsettias, because of their brilliant color, are highly regarded as Christmas decorations. In warmer climates, they grow wild, year round, and their distinctive spiky petals and leafs are a spark of color in many tropical landscapes. Learn how to paint red ones in watercolor. Ironically, the flower of the poinsettia are the yellow berries in the center of the blossom. The red and green are actually leafs. For the purpose of this tutorial, the red will be referred to as the flower, and the green, the leafs. - Observe your subject to start. Either an artificial poinsettia plant or a live one will give you the information you need to paint it. Look for the general shape of the blossoms, how many petals come from the center of each flower, what size and color are the central berries, what shape are the leafs, do the blossoms lie flat or form an umbrella shape, are there layers of red petals and how are they configured?
- Position yourself with a sheet of 11 x 14" watercolor paper with the subject in view. Draw it in pencil. Begin by plotting out large circles for each blossom. If you are aiming for a realistic look, place a small circle within the larger one, but not exactly in the center to create the illusion that the flowers are pointing in various directions as if they were growing. Place small stems under them as if they were standing up.
- Draw the petals coming from the center of each flower and having small stems, 1/2" long, emerging from under the berries. There are six main petals, so arrange them evenly around the center, allow them to become elongated ovals, and end in a point. For the veins, draw a slightly curved line down the center of the petal to give them the illusion they are lifting and curving at random. Fill in between each petal with a secondary set of petals for a lush, full flower.
- Begin to draw leafs. They are a third layer of petals but will be distinguished as leafs by painting them green.
- Sketch in the vase or container. It can be a store wrapper around a pot, basket, or vase. If the container is a basket with a handle, let it go off the top of the page to give the viewer the feeling of being involved, not seeing the arrangement from a distance.
- Make your viewing vantage point be slightly above looking down at the flowers. The opening and bottom of the vessel, no matter what type, if it is round, will have curves at the lip and foot. They must be the same.
- Prepare your paints by squeezing from tubes, out two shades of red, yellow, two blues, two greens, and a light and dark brown.
- Paint the berries yellow and when dry, mask them out.
- Paint the red flowers by wetting each petal with water getting into all parts, including the tiny stem at the base. Put undiluted red paint on the tip of your brush and touch it to the petal. The water will carry the paint to all areas that are wet. Add a second dot of another shade of red, if desired.
- Scratch with an open paper clip, a sharp piece of a credit card, or a stylus, the vein down the center of the petal. If desired, do tributary veins off the main one. Alternatively, paint the veins with a liner or small brush, or use a combination of both techniques.
- Paint secondary layer of petals darker to have them recede slightly. Darken the red by adding a touch of blue or green to it.
- Paint the green leafs, varying them in hue and value. Have some greens lean toward the yellow, and some toward the blue. For the veins, do as you did for the petals.
- Allow the piece to dry, set it away from you and look for holes in the composition. Leaf shapes are good fillers within the flower arrangement. For the all over composition, if the base looks too simple, add twining ivy or holly.
- Draw, using a ruler, draw a line just below mid point to separate the table from the background. Wet the entire background, getting water carefully in around the flowers, using a soft wash brush. Make two juicy puddles on your palette of grey and tan. Just add water to the paint in the center of your palette and let the colors cancel one another out to make neutrals. Using a soft brush, paint grey on the top and tan for the table's surface.
- Finish up!
- Photos are good as a reference if you don't have actual flowers.
- If you prefer to do a stylized type of painting, have all the flowers facing forward, don't worry about curving the petals and leafs and add, perhaps, a border of gold on each side.
- To remove masking fluid, rub with a piece of rubber mat, the type used for drawer liners or to keep throw rugs from slipping. Or, simply rub with your finger and pull it up.
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| How to Adjust Seating to the Proper Position While Driving Posted: 01 Dec 2017 12:00 AM PST Driving with your seat adjusted properly will make you more comfortable and safe. There are different ways you can adjust your seat, like moving it toward or away from the steering wheel, changing the incline of the backrest, and moving the headrest up and down. Once your seat is adjusted for comfort and safety, make sure you're sitting in it correctly. Remember to always wear your seat belt! EditUsing Your Seat Controls - Slide your seat until your knees are slightly bent when you're pressing the gas. Move your seat forward if your legs are completely extended when you press the gas pedal. Move your seat back if your legs are bent too much. Keeping your knees slightly bent while you drive will prevent knee pain.[1]
- Sit so there's a gap 2 fingers wide between the back of your knee and the seat. Place 2 fingers between the edge of your seat and the back of your knee. If you can't fit both fingers in the gap, slide your seat back until you're able to.[2]
- Raise your seat up until your hips are level with your knees. Raise the seat higher if you can't see clearly out the windshield or windows. Don't drive with your hips lower than your knees.[3]
- If your car doesn't have a control to adjust the seat height, sit on a cushion to help keep your hips level with your knees. Make sure you're not elevated too much or you'll have to bend down to look out the windshield or windows.
- Adjust the backrest so it's reclined at about a 100 degree angle. Sitting reclined at this angle will decrease pressure on your lower back so you're more comfortable.[4] If your shoulders lift from the backrest when you turn the steering wheel, your seat is reclined too much. Move the backrest up more if you are hunched forward when driving. When the backrest is in the proper position, you should easily be able to reach the wheel, and your elbows should be slightly bent.[5]
- Move the headrest so the back of your head is centered in the middle. If your head is above the headrest when you're sitting in your seat, move the headrest up. If the back of your head is exposed below the headrest, move the headrest down. Ideally, the top of your head should be level with the top of the headrest.[6]
- Adjust the lumbar support so it fits in the curve of your lower back. The lumbar support is the raised portion of the lower backrest. First, adjust the height of the lumbar support so the bottom edge is level with your waistline. Then adjust the depth of the support so it completely fills in the curve of your lower back.[7]
- If your seat doesn't have lumbar support, roll up a towel and put it in the curve of your back while you're driving.
- You can also buy an attachable foam support to use in place of lumbar support if your seat doesn't have it.
EditSitting in Your Seat Properly - Sit with your body all the way back in your seat. Your back should be pressed against the backrest, and your bottom should be as far back in your seat as possible. Avoid driving with your body scorched forward; if you can't reach the pedals or steering wheel, adjust your seat, not your body.[8]
- Hold the steering wheel at a "9 and 3" position. Imagine the steering wheel is the face of a clock. Place your left hand where 9 o'clock would be on the clock. Place your right hand where 3 o'clock would be on the clock. Maintaining this grip will give you the most control over the wheel.[9]
- Always drive with both hands on the wheel. Driving with one hand twists your spine, which can lead to back pain.[10]
- Keep your left foot on the footrest when you're not using it. If you're driving a manual car, only move your left foot when you're using the clutch. If you're driving an automatic, you should never move your left foot from the footrest. Keeping your left foot flat on the footrest will help support your back and pelvis while you're driving.[11]
- Wear your seat belt so the strap goes across your pelvis. Don't wear the strap that stretches across your lap over your stomach. In case of an accident, you want the strap to catch onto your pelvic bone, not your stomach.[12]
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