| How to Build a Pyramid for School Posted: 30 Sep 2017 05:00 PM PDT Do you have an assignment to make a model of an Egyptian pyramid? It's a fun school project that can be approached in a variety of ways. Though there are lots of methods out there, you can easily make a realistic-looking pyramid out of cardboard, sugar cubes, or clay. EditUsing Cardboard - Gather your supplies. This cardboard pyramid looks like a realistic flat-sided pyramid, but it's lightweight and doesn't take very long to put together. You probably have most of the supplies on hand already. For this project you will need:[1]
- A large flattened cardboard box or piece of cardboard
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Hot glue gun and sticks
- Brown or black permanent marker
- White school glue
- Paint brush
- Sand
- Cut out a cardboard square. Cut out a square of cardboard that is 14 inches (35.5 cm) by 14 inches (35.5 cm). This square will be the base of the pyramid.[2]
- You can make the base in any size you need, but keep in mind that the rest of the measurements will need to be altered if you change the size of the base.
- Cut out four cardboard triangles. Use your ruler and pencil to draw four triangles with 8-inch (20.3 cm) bases that are 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall.[3]
- Place a dot 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the center point (which is at 4 inches or 10.2 cm) of the bottom line to create a perfect triangle.
- You can use a craft knife instead of scissors if the cardboard is stiff and difficult to cut.
- Hot-glue the triangles together. Lean the triangles in so that their points meet and create a pyramid shape. You can temporarily tape them together or have a friend or family member help you if it's tricky to get all four pieces to stay together. Then, seal the edges together with a line of hot glue.[4]
- Be very careful when using hot glue, as it can burn you. Keep your hands away from the nozzle and the glue. Make sure you have a safe surface to rest your hot glue gun on when you're not using it as well.
- Hot-glue the pyramid to the square. Center the pyramid on top of the square. Put a line of hot glue along all four bottom edges of the pyramid and press it down in the middle of the square.[5]
- Let the glue dry completely. It's important to allow the glue to dry completely before moving on to the next step. Wait a few hours before moving on to ensure your pyramid doesn't fall apart.[6]
- Draw "bricks" on the pyramid. Use a brown or black permanent marker to draw horizontal and vertical lines on the pyramid that look like bricks. This will make your pyramid look more realistic.[7]
- Paint the pyramid with white school glue. Pour some white school glue into a dish and use a paintbrush to paint the entire cardboard pyramid with an even coating of glue. Don't forget to cover the edges, too, so you'll be able to hide the cracks with sand.[8]
- Alternatively, you could rub a glue stick over the cardboard before adding the sand.
- Sprinkle on the sand. Before the glue dries, cover the pyramid with sand. Try to sprinkle on an even amount so that the entire pyramid is evenly coated in a layer of sand.[9]
- Let the pyramid dry. Allow the pyramid to dry overnight, rather than finishing this project the day that it's due. This way the glue and sand will be firmly stuck on and your finished product will look great.[10]
EditUsing Clay - Collect your materials. Making a clay pyramid allows you to get creative by making realistic indents and grooves in the walls to resemble an ancient Egyptian pyramid. You'll need the following materials for this method:[11]
- A large ball of modeling clay (the kind that air dries)
- A piece of cardboard
- Rolling pin
- Knife
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Paint (sandy brown color)
- Paintbrush
- Cut out the cardboard base. Use the ruler and pencil to draw a square on your piece of cardboard. An 8-inch by 8-inch (20.3 cm by 20.3 cm) base is a good size, or you could make a larger base if you have plenty of clay. Cut out the square when you're finished.[12]
- Roll out the clay. Knead the clay into a ball, the place it on a clean, dry surface. Use the rolling pin to roll out the clay to a thickness of 1 inch (2.5 cm).[13]
- Cut a square out of the clay. Cut a 6-inch by 6-inch (15.2 cm by 15.2 cm) square out of the clay. Center it on top of the cardboard base.[14]
- Cut additional squares out of the clay. The next layer should be 5 inches by 5 inches (12.7 cm by 12.7 cm), followed by 4 inches by 4 inches (10.2 cm by 10.2 cm), 3 inches by 3 inches (7.6 cm by 7.6 cm), 2 inches by 2 inches (5.1 cm by 5.1 cm), and finally 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 cm by 2.5 cm). Stack each layer in the center of the previous layer.[15]
- Bevel the edges and create ridges. Press your ruler against the sides of the squares to slant them slightly downward. You can also create ridges by using the knife to make markings that look like stone shapes in the sides of the pyramid.[16]
- Let the clay dry. Leave it alone for several hours, or even overnight, to give the pyramid time to dry and harden. Refer to the instructions on the clay packaging if you're unsure how long it takes to dry completely.[17]
- Paint the pyramid. Pour the paint into a dish and use the paintbrush to spread an even coating on the pyramid. Alternatively, cover the pyramid in a light coating of white school glue and sprinkle it with sand before the glue dries.[18]
- Allow your project to dry. Let your finished pyramid to dry overnight. Then, take it to school and show off your hard work.[19]
EditUsing Sugar Cubes - Assemble your supplies. This simple pyramid looks like a step-sided pyramid, with individual "stones" visible instead of flat sides. It requires just a few household supplies, including:[20]
- A large box of sugar cubes (around 400 cubes)
- A piece of cardboard
- A ruler
- A pencil
- Scissors
- White school glue
- Paint (sandy brown color)
- Paintbrush
- Cut a cardboard square. Use your ruler and pencil to draw a 12-inch by 12-inch (30.5 cm by 30.5 cm) square. Cut out the square and use it as the base for your pyramid.[21]
- Make a sugar cube square. Create a 10 by 10 square base of sugar cubes in the center of the cardboard square (using 100 sugar cubes total). Glue down each sugar cube using white school glue.[22]
- Add the second layer to the pyramid. Position a 9 by 9 square of sugar cubes in the center of the first layer (using 81 cubes). Glue down each sugar cube.[23]
- Continue adding layers. Each layer should be 1 cube smaller than the previous layer, so the next layer is 8 by 8 (64 cubes), then 7 by 7 (49 cubes), 6 by 6 (36 cubes), 5 by 5 (25 cubes), 4 by 4 (16 cubes), 3 by 3 (9 cubes), 2 by 2 (4 cubes), and finally a single sugar cube on top.[24]
- Let the glue completely dry. Allow the glue to dry for several hours to ensure all the sugar cubes are firmly in place.[25]
- Paint the pyramid. Use a paintbrush to paint the entire pyramid a sandy brown color. Use only a small amount of paint, and be careful not to damage the pyramid as you go.[26]
- Let the pyramid dry. Allow the pyramid to dry completely overnight. You can then proudly present it at school.[27]
- Working with glue is messy so lay newspapers down before you start.
- Decorate the area around the base of the pyramid with sand, a faux Nile River, and other Egyptian elements.
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| How to Unravel Dreads Posted: 30 Sep 2017 09:00 AM PDT Having dreadlocks doesn't mean you have to cut off your hair when you want a change. Dreadlocks can be unraveled, but you'll need to work slowly and get messy. It's important to first wash and condition your hair to make it as soft as possible. Using a metal comb, you can then separate the hair and flatten it back to its natural state. With a little patience, your hair will look as good as new. EditWashing the Dreadlocks - Separate big knots with your fingers. Do your best to pull apart any knotted dreadlocks or matted parts in your hair. Move gently and don't try forcing any resistant areas unless you don't mind pain and hair loss. You'll be thankful you spent time now separating these parts, since they won't turn into a tangled mess when you wash your hair.[1]
- Wash your hair with shampoo. Wet dreadlocks are far easier to unravel than dry ones. Although many wearers keep their hair damp while unraveling, an initial wash makes it that much softer. Let your dreads soak in hot water until they feel saturated. Then, massage in your usual shampoo.[2]
- Specialized dreadlock removal shampoo can be ordered online, but it isn't necessary. Any store-bought brand is fine and won't cost you an arm and a dread.
- Rinse out the soap and debris. Put your hair back in the hot water. Luxuriate in it until all the suds wash from your dreads. This removes the wax and other natural buildup that holds the dreads together. You'll have a lot of it after keeping this hairstyle for so long!
- Rub conditioner into dreads for cheap and easy lubrication. Spread conditioner over your hair and use your fingers to massage the conditioner deep into each dreadlock. Don't rinse off the conditioner yet. Make sure you've got each strand of hair nice and coated, since the conditioner makes unraveling so much easier. You can use more as needed later. Cheap store-bought conditioner is the best option because you may end up using lots of conditioner.[3]
- Specialized dreadlock removal conditioner also exists and can be ordered online, but it isn't necessary. You can wash your hair with whatever standard conditioner you have on hand.
- Cheap store-bought conditioner is recommended, since you'll need to use a lot of it to keep your dreads moisturized.
- Use natural oils in place of conditioner for additional protection. Oils including coconut, jojoba, or even olive oil can also be used to moisturize dreads. Because they're natural, some people prefer them. They're easy for your skin to absorb and fortify your hair against combing damage. If you don't care about those potential benefits, commercial product will be fine and probably save you money.[4]
EditUnraveling the Dreadlocks - Separate a dreadlock with a metal comb. Unraveling starts with one single dreadlock. Start near the end of the dreadlock with a metal tine on a sturdy comb. Try to push the tooth through the hair. You'll likely feel some resistance, so push harder. If you can't pierce it, you're starting too high and need to move the comb closer to the free end of the dreadlock.[5]
- Look for rat-tail combs online or at a beauty supply store. These have a metal tip to use for piercing, so you won't have to wear out the tines on a good comb.
- A crochet hook can also be used instead of a comb. It can feel easier to control than most combs.[6]
- Remoisten the hair with water. Remember, you need your hair to stay damp or else it'll fight you more than usual. A simple way to do this is with a cup of water. Hold the cup and dunk the dread into it. Wait until the hair feels saturated. Remoisten your hair whenever it starts feeling too dry or difficult to unravel.[7]
- A spray bottle can also be used instead of a cup, but you'll probably have to refill it a few times. You may also mix a little conditioner into the spray bottle for extra moisturization.
- Comb the split parts of the dreadlock. Now you get to use a comb for its intended purpose. Smooth out the tangles below the point where you split the hair. Comb all the way down to the end, taking care not to rush or otherwise stress your hair. You'll still notice a decent amount of hair falling out, but don't worry, this is normal.[8]
- Most of the hair that falls out is old hair. Hair that would have normally fallen into your shower drain got trapped in your dreads.
- Continue splitting and combing the dreadlock. Splitting the dreadlock gets tedious, but you'll be happy when your hair stays healthy and whole. Take up the comb or other splitting object again. Pick up the same dreadlock you split earlier. Move up beyond the split point and split the hair again. Comb out the tangles below it, then continue splitting and combing until the dread is fully unraveled.
- Remember to keep your hair damp with water and conditioner as you do this.
- Repeat piercing and combing for other dreads. Now you'll have to repeat the same process for every other dread you want to unravel. Remember to start the split near the bottom of the dread, since this is where it offers the least resistance. Keep on splitting and combing. It's a labor of love when you need to remove lots of dreads, but it has to be done.
- Wash your hair again. Give your hair a reward for all the stress it has endured. Load it with your ordinary conditioner. Avoid shampoo, since you've already used it once today and shampooing too often dries out hair. After you've rinsed it off, comb it out again. Your hair is bound to look a little messy, but continue to wash with conditioning and comb for the next few days. It'll soon be ready to be styled again.
- Use deep conditioner or natural oils instead of regular conditioner. Some people swear by deep conditioners. These products have less chemicals than cheap conditioners and prevent damage to your already stressed hair. Natural oils, including coconut oil, are another option for those who prefer conditioning with no commercial product at all.
- Both of these products are rubbed in and washed out like you would with any other conditioner.
- Most hair loss you notice after unraveling a dread is hair that already fell out. Even if your hair looks a little thin, it will grow back.
- Wait a few days before attempting to change your style. Your hair will need this time to change back to normal.
EditThings You'll Need - Lots of water
- Plenty of cheap conditioner
- Shampoo
- Cup or spray bottle
- Rat-tail comb
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Get Spray Paint off a Car Posted: 30 Sep 2017 01:00 AM PDT There's nothing quite like waking up to find that your car's paint job has been defaced by mischievous kids with a can of spray paint. When vandals strike, don't panic. There are lots of methods to remove spray paint, but the most effective are acetone nail polish remover, detailing clay, and carnauba wax. EditUsing Acetone or Nail Polish Remover - Get a bottle of acetone, or nail polish remover containing acetone. You may not have acetone on hand, but you may have a bottle of nail polish remover. Nail polish remover is formulated to take the enamel layer off fingernails, which is essentially what you're attempting to do with your car's finish. Any brand will work, and the higher the percentage of acetone, the better.[1]
- Pour acetone or nail polish remover onto a cloth. Choose a terrycloth or microfiber towel so that you don't scratch the clear coat or paint on your car. You'll want to keep the cloth wet at all times, so if it starts to dry out, add more acetone or nail polish remover.[2]
- Wear gloves to protect your hands from the acetone or nail polish remover and paint transfer.
- Rub the cloth gently onto the spray paint. Use small, circular motions to remove the spray paint from your car. Rub very gently, or you risk removing the clear coat or the paint on your car, rather than just the spray paint. The paint will transfer from your car to the cloth, so switch out your cloths often.[3]
- Wash your car after removing the spray paint. You'll want to thoroughly wash and rinse your car after removing the spray paint. Pay special attention to the spray painted area to get rid of all traces of the paint as well as the acetone or nail polish remover.
EditUsing Detailing Clay - Wash and dry your car. This step is important to remove surface dirt before applying the clay. You can wash your car by hand, or take it through an automatic car wash. If the spray paint is very fresh, the hot water and soap may even remove some of the paint.[4]
- Get detailing clay. Detailing clay is a polymer abrasive which will remove anything sitting on top of the paint on your car, without scratching or damaging the surface. There are several varieties available, including Detailer's Pride Clay.[5] Another option is Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit, which includes detailing spray (which you would use as a lubricant for the clay), as well as wax and a microfiber cloth.[6]
- These detailing clays should be available at your local auto parts store.
- Knead the clay. You only need a small, flat section the size of your palm, so if you bought a new bar you should cut it in half. Then, seal it in a Ziploc bag and place it in a bucket or bowl of warm water, which will warm up the clay so you can manipulate it more easily. Take the half of the bar and knead it in your hands. You want to form a pancake or patty with the clay.[7]
- Apply a clay lubricant. A lubricant is necessary so that your clay will glide over, rather than stick to, the paint. Shake the lubricant, then spray it onto the clay and also onto the paint on your car. Use an ample amount so that your clay won't smudge onto the car.[8]
- Clay lubricant should be available at your local auto parts store.
- Rub the clay over the spray paint. Hold the clay in your hand so that your fingertips are not covered by the clay -- you want it to be a little lower in your palm. Rub the clay back and forth with a firm pressure, like you would rub a bar of soap over your skin. Keep rubbing the clay over the spray paint until the paint is removed.[9]
- When your clay becomes covered in contaminants, fold it over and re-knead it to form a clean patty.
- Wipe the residue off. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe the clay residue off the car. Apply a light pressure and rub the cloth over the area where you applied the clay.[10]
- Wax your car. Claying the car removes previous wax, so it's important to wax your car to protect from further damage and restore the shine to your clear coat. Apply the wax in a circular motion, using the tool or sponge that comes with the wax, or use a soft rotating buffing tool.[11]
EditUsing Carnauba Wax - Purchase liquid carnauba wax. Products like Butter Wet Carnauba Wax contain carnauba oils that will break down the spray paint. The wax will not damage or scratch your paint or clear coat, but will simply remove the spray paint from the surface of your car. You should be able to find a liquid carnauba wax at your local auto parts store, but if not, you can order it online.[12]
- Apply the wax to a sponge. Put an ample amount of the liquid wax onto a soft sponge or cloth. Squirt it on or add several dollops to your sponge. Apply more as you go, and don't be afraid to use a lot of the wax as it is needed to break down the paint.[13]
- Rub the sponge on the spray paint. Using firm pressure and circular motions, rub the waxed sponge onto the affected area of your car. Make sure you get all the overspray and any errant dots or drips. Flip your sponge over or get a new one once the surface is covered in spray paint transfer.[14]
- Buff off the wax. After removing the spray paint, you'll want to buff the wax off your car. Use a clean microfiber cloth to do the buffing. Rub the waxed area using small, circular motions.[15]
- Remove the spray paint as soon as possible, because the longer the paint bakes in the sun, the harder it will be to remove.
- If your car windows also got tagged with spray paint, acetone and a razor blade should clear it up easily.
- Don't use abrasive products, like rubbing compound, as they will further damage the paint on your car.
- Regardless of the method you choose, be sure to first test it on a small, inconspicuous spot.
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