| How to Polish Polyurethane Posted: 09 May 2021 05:00 PM PDT Finishing a coffee table, handrail, or other wooden surface with polyurethane can be a lot of hard work, and it may be tempting to throw in the towel once you're done. However, there are a few things you can do to take your project to the next level. While this polyurethane can help make your wood surfaces look smooth and glassy, it may feel a bit bumpy or uneven at first. To create a completely polished surface, it may be worth it to sand the surface of your wood. Buff the surface with car polish for a shiny finish or use paste wax for a satin finish. [Edit]Buffing the Finished Surface - Spritz over the finished surface with tap water. After you've applied your polyurethane and let it dry completely, fill a plastic spray bottle with cool tap water. Lightly mist the surface with water so you can sand down the finish more efficiently.[1]
- When working with polyurethane, wet sanding is the best way to ensure a smooth finish.
- Use an orbital sander and 2000-grit paper to buff the wet surface. Take a circular sheet of smooth sandpaper and fit it into your sander. Turn the machine to a low power setting, then rub the sander in slow, horizontal motions across the surface. Apply a light, even amount of pressure so you can work away any scratches or bumps in the finish. Start on 1 side of the surface, then move the sander slowly to the opposite side.[2]
- Make sure that the sandpaper is labeled as "wet/dry." You can find this type of paper at most hardware or home improvement stores, or you can buy it online.
- Sand down the surface by hand if you don't have a handheld tool. Use a smooth piece of sandpaper that's around 1500-grit, then start rubbing down the finish in long, smooth motions. If you don't have any sandpaper on hand, you can also use a brown paper bag to buff the surface.[3]
- If you don't have any super-fine sandpaper on hand, you can use a lower grit level, like 320.[4]
- You may have an easier time sanding by hand if you wrap the sandpaper around a block of styrofoam.
- Wipe any residue from the surface with a clean cloth. As you buff the surface of your finish, look for any dust or slurry building up on the surface. When you see this residue, use a clean cloth to wipe and remove it from the surface gently.[5]
- Sanding polyurethane can be a time-consuming process, so you may have to do this several times.
- Repeat the spraying and sanding process until the surface feels smooth. Feel the surface of your polyurethane to see if the bumps and scratches are gone. If not, continue buffing in long, slow motions along the sides and edges of the surface. Try to go extra slowly and light along the edges so you don't sand through the finish by mistake.[6]
- Switch out your sandpaper pad if it looks dirty or clogged with polyurethane slurry.[7]
- This process may take several minutes to complete. Don't be discouraged if you don't see results right away!
[Edit]Using Polish for a Glossy Surface - Insert a foam buffing pad in your orbital sander. Remove the sandpaper pad and replace it with a thick foam insert. If you're having trouble switching or installing a new pad, consult your user manual for advice.[8]
- Spread a grape-sized amount of car polish onto the pad. Try to coat a good portion of the foam pad, then smear the polish on top of the finish. Make sure that the polish is clear, and not designed for dark exteriors.[9]
- You can buy car polish online, or in an auto supply shop.
- Feel free to use more or less polish, depending on the size of your project.
- Buff the polish into the finished project until the surface looks shiny. Turn your orbital sander onto a low speed and apply a small amount of pressure to the finished surface.[10] Work in long, horizontal motions to work the polish into the polyurethane.[11]
- Don't be discouraged if the surface doesn't look shiny right away. It'll take a few minutes before the polish is completely buffed in.
- Be careful when you polish around the edges, as you don't want to burn through the polyurethane.
- Use a polishing cloth to buff any residue into the surface. Rub the cloth in wide, circular motions along the entire finish. Continue wiping down the surface until it looks glossy and reflective.[12]
- This helps to get rid of any excess polish stuck to the surface.
- Rub a swirl mark remover onto the surface with a polishing cloth. Pour a blueberry-sized amount of automotive swirl mark remover onto a soft, clean polishing cloth, then wipe down the polished surface with circular motions. Once you've coated the entire surface, use another cloth to wipe off any excess.[13]
- You can find automotive swirl remover online, or in any store that sells auto supplies.
[Edit]Waxing for a Satin Finish - Rub the wax in the same direction as the grain. Add a pea-sized amount of car paste wax to a polishing pad or cloth. Work in short, smooth motions until there are no visible scratches in the polyurethane.[14] Move the pad in smooth, horizontal motions so you can apply an even coat of wax to the surface.[15]
- You can also use a section of 0000 steel wool to buff the surface.[16]
- To make things easier, apply wax to the end sections of the wood first. Always follow the grain when you do this!
- For a more careful polishing job, use short, smooth strokes as you go.
- Use a paper shop towel to clean off any excess wax. Before the paste wax has a chance to dry, use a sheet of paper shop towel to rub and get rid of any residue. Go over the entire surface with the towel in long, horizontal motions, picking up any leftover wax as you go.[17]
- You don't want wax drying on your polyurethane, as this will make the surface feel uneven.
- Spray and rub down the surface with water if any wax dries. Sprinkle a few droplets of tap water over the entire waxed surface, which will bead on the surface of your waxed finish. Use a clean, 0000 steel wool pad to brush down the surface lightly from left to right. Once you've given the finish a good wipe, flip the pad and repeat the wiping process. Once you've gotten rid of any leftover wax, blot away the water with a cloth or paper towel.[18]
[Edit]Warning - Make sure you've applied at least 3-4 coats of polyurethane before polishing it, or else you could burn through the finish.[19]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Buffing the Finished Surface - Spray bottle
- Water
- Orbital sander
- 2000-grit sanding pads
- Polishing cloth
- Scrubbing or buffing pad (optional)
[Edit]Using Polish for a Glossy Surface - Foam buffing pad
- Orbital sander
- Car polish
- Polishing cloth
- Swirl mark remover
[Edit]Waxing for a Satin Surface - Paste wax
- Polishing pad or cloth
- 0000 steel wool
- Spray bottle
- Water
[Edit]References |
| How to Install a Hook in the Wall Posted: 09 May 2021 09:00 AM PDT Hooks can be used to hang almost anything from your wall as long as they aren't too heavy. When you want to create extra hanging space in your home, you can use adhesive hooks for lighter materials, like picture frames or calendars. If you want to support larger items, such as mirrors or artwork, you may have to mount your hooks to the studs behind your walls. However, if you aren't using a stud or your wall is made of drywall, masonry, or concrete, you'll need to use a wall anchor to get the most support. [Edit]Mounting Wall Hooks in Wooden Studs - Use a stud finder to locate studs behind your walls. Studs are the framework behind the walls in your home, and screwing into them offers the most support for your hooks. Stud finders are small handheld machines that can detect the wood behind your walls. Hold the stud finder against the wall and press the button to turn it on. Move the stud finder across your wall and wait for it to beep. Mark the location of your stud on the wall with a pencil so you know where to put your hook.[1]
- Studs are commonly apart from one another, but your home's architecture may be different.
- If you don't have a stud finder, you can also try knocking on your walls. Knocking on a stud will produce a full, solid sound while knocking on an area without one will sound hollow.[2]
- Drill a hole into your wall slightly smaller than the screw your hook came with. Change your drill bit so it's slightly smaller than the threaded part of your screw. Place the end of your drill on the mark you made on your wall and start running the drill slowly to start your hole. Once you drill through the wall, speed up the drill so it can dig into the wooden stud. Make your hole the same depth as your screw so it can hold securely.[3]
- You don't have to pre-drill holes if you don't want to, but it can prevent your walls from chipping and your studs from splitting.
- Don't pre-drill holes if your hook uses nails to hold it in place.
- Feed the screw into the hole on your hook and line it up to the wall. Your hook should have a hole in its front to secure your screw. Place your screw through the hole and hold the hook up to your wall. Place the point of your screw in the hole you just drilled so you can easily start screwing it in.[4]
- If the hook uses nails, slide the end of the nail through the hole and place the end of the nail against the mark you drew on the wall.
- Many hooks will come with the screws or hardware required to secure them to the wall.
- It's okay to let the hook hang crooked when you first place it on the wall since you can rotate it after you tighten it.
- Screw or hammer the hook into the wall. If your hook uses nails, use a hammer to drive the nail into the stud. Otherwise, use a screwdriver to tighten the hook onto your wall. Make sure your hook faces right-side up before completely securing the screw so it hangs correctly.[5]
- Check your hook's maximum weight before hanging anything on it so you don't accidentally rip it out of the wall.
[Edit]Anchoring Hooks between Studs - Get wall anchors for your screws. Wall anchors look like hollow screws and are used in concrete, masonry, or drywall when you don't have a stud to support your hook. Look for a wall anchor meant to support the weight of the object you're hanging and made for the material your wall is made from. Make sure you have enough wall anchors for all of your screws.[6][7]
- Wall anchors can be purchased from your local hardware store.
- Avoid hanging anything between studs without wall anchors since they could rip out of the wall and fall out.
- Drill a hole the same size as your wall anchor. Match the width of your wall anchor to the drill bit you use to make the hole. Start drilling slowly to protect your drill bit and reduce the amount of dust. Keep drilling your hole until it's the same depth as your anchor.[8]
- Since drilling into a hard surface can create dust, wear safety glasses and a face mask while you're drilling.
- Screw or feed your anchor into the hole you made. If your anchor doesn't have threading on the outside, simply slide the anchor into place and tap it in with a hammer if you need to. If your anchor is threaded, use your screwdriver to secure it to your wall. Make sure the end of the anchor is flush with the wall when you're finished.[9]
- Place your screw into the hook and align it with the anchor on your wall. Locate the hole on the front of your hook where the screw feeds in. Slide the threaded end of your screw through the hole and set the point of the screw inside the anchor.
- You hook should come with the screws needed to hold it in place. If not, use a screw that's the same length as your anchor.
- It doesn't matter if your screw hangs crooked when you start screwing it in since You'll have a chance to rotate it later.
- Secure the screw in the center of your anchor. Use your screwdriver to tighten the screw into the anchor. As the screw goes further into the anchor, the anchor will expand and create a firm grip so it doesn't fall out of the wall. When the hook is almost tight against the wall, make sure it's rotated the right direction so you can hang things on it.[10]
- You may also use a drill with a screwdriver bit to work faster.
[Edit]Hanging Adhesive Hooks - Slide the back off of the hook. Adhesive hooks usually have a backplate that can be removed to make installation easier. Flip the adhesive hook upside down and try sliding the back piece down to remove it from the hook. Once the hook piece is separated from the backplate, set the hook aside.[11]
- Adhesive hooks can be purchased from your local convenience store.
- Smaller adhesive hooks may not have a removable back. If your hooks do not, you can skip this step.
- Peel the backing from the adhesive strip and press it onto the backplate. Adhesive strips will come with your package of hooks and should be double-sided. Locate the side of the adhesive strip meant to attach to the backplate and peel the protective layer off. Firmly press the adhesive strip onto the flat side of the backplate so the tab points down. Hold the strip on the backplate for 30 seconds to ensure it's fully adhered.[12]
- If your hook doesn't have a removable backplate, then press the strip directly on the back side of the hook.
- Press the adhesive strip onto your wall and hold it for 30 seconds. Remove the protective backing on the second side of the adhesive strip. Align the backplate on your wall where you want to place the hook and make sure the tab on the front of the backplate is at the bottom. Press the adhesive strip for 30 seconds so it bonds tightly to your wall.[13]
- Most adhesive hooks should stick to any wall surface that's mostly flat.
- Slide the hook onto the wall and wait 1 hour before hanging anything. Hold the hook piece over the backplate so the tab lines up with the hole in front of the hook. Slide the hook down onto the backplate until the tab clicks into place to secure your hook. Leave the hook empty for at least 1 hour so the adhesive has time to fully set.[14]
- Don't hang anything more than on large adhesive hooks since they could break off of the wall. If you have smaller hooks, read the instructions carefully to see how much weight they can support.[15]
- Make sure to buy hooks that support the weight of the object you want to hang.
- Use 2 hooks if you want to distribute the weight evenly and put less stress on your wall.
[Edit]Warnings - Don't use hooks with nails if your walls are made of concrete or masonry, or if you're securing the hook in drywall without a stud.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Mounting Wall Hooks in Wooden Studs - Stud finder
- Pencil
- Drill
- Screws
- Hooks
- Screwdriver or hammer
[Edit]Anchoring Hooks in Drywall - Drill
- Safety glasses
- Face mask
- Screwdriver
- Wall anchors
- Screws
- Hooks
[Edit]Hanging Adhesive Hooks [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Name a Villain Posted: 09 May 2021 01:00 AM PDT Coming up with names for characters is an essential part of writing creative works of fiction. Whether you're working on a comic, a novel, a short story, or a screenplay, if you have a villain, they need a good name! There are so many great villains already out there that it can be tricky to come up with something original and creative. Luckily for you, we've put together this list of different ways you can brainstorm some memorable villain names! [Edit]Use a villain name generator online. - This is a fast way to come up with multiple ideas to choose from. Type "villain name generator" into a search engine and click on one of the search results. Fill in the required fields to give the generator some information to use, then click the button at the bottom of the screen to generate a list of villain names.[1]
- There are many different name generator tools online, but they all work pretty much the same.
- You don't have to fill out all the fields to generate names. However, you can add things like adjectives to describe your villain, what animal they are most like, and what their nationality is to get more specific suggestions.
- For example, if you describe your villain as cold, bat-like, and British, you might get a name suggestion like Tyndareus Hansen, AKA Cold-Bat.
[Edit]Use words from other languages. - This can tell exactly who your villain is without being obvious. Come up with words or phrases that describe your villain in English or whatever your native language is. Then, look up the translations for these words or phrases. Feel free to mash multiple words together to name your villain![2]
- For instance, in The Hobbit, the name of the evil dragon "Smaug" comes from an old Germanic verb that means to "creep" or "crawl."
- If your villain is undead, then the words "grave" or "tomb" might come to mind when you think of them. You could name them something like "Sepulcrum," which is Latin for tomb or burial place, or something like "Tom Grab." "Grab" is German for "grave."
[Edit]Think of names that evoke villainy. - Many of the best villains have names that sound like other words. Come up with a list of words that evoke villainy, such as "bad," "evil," "dark," and "malevolent." Now, try to brainstorm some names that sound enough like those words to bring them to mind and make it obvious that the character is a villain.[3]
- For example, the "darth" in Darth Vader brings to mind the word "dark."
- If you want people to think of the word malevolent when they hear your character's name, you could call them something like "Maldred." Or, name them something like "Malvil" to combine "malevolent" and "evil" into one name.
[Edit]Come up with monstrous names. - Naming a villain after a dangerous animal or monster shows they're bad. One way to do this is to give your character a person's first name, followed by something like "the snake" or "the dragon." Another idea is to use the word for a monster or a dangerous animal from another language in the name, such as the Latin "draco" for "dragon."[4]
- You can see this done in the Harry Potter series with the semi-villain "Draco Malfoy," who also happens to have the Latin word "mal" for "bad" or "evil" in his last name.
- For example, you might name your character something like "Frederick the Snake" or "Fred Serpente." "Serpente" is Italian for "snake."
[Edit]Give your villain a meaningful nickname. - A nickname can help show what your villain is all about. Choose a nickname that describes the type of villainy your character does, something evil that they're known for doing, or a power or skill they have. Keep it simple and straight to the point.[5]
- For example, if your villain has magical powers of fire, you could call them something like "Inferno." Or, if they have powers of ice, you could call them something like "Icepick" or "Frost Face."
- If your villain is a hitman known for their sharpshooting skills, call them something like "Bullseye" or "Headshot."
[Edit]Name villains based on how you want them to be perceived. - Villains can either be intimidating or unimposing. Choose a simple, understated name like "Brad" if you don't want your villain's evilness to be perceived right away. If you want your villain to be more obvious, pick something foreboding like "The Lord of Darkness."[6]
- For example, in Harry Potter, it's pretty obvious that "He Who Must Not Be Named" is a really bad guy. On the other hand, his former identity of "Tom Riddle" is not immediately known to be a villain.
[Edit]Make sure the name fits the era. - This ensures that your villain's name is believable. For instance, don't name your villain "Bob" if your work is set in ancient Rome. Pick a villainous name that makes sense for the time period and setting of your work.[7]
- For example, if your villain lives in Colonial-era New England, a name like "Malcolm Smith" is perfectly acceptable.
- If your villain is an evil Roman general living around 400 A.D., name them something like "Augustus Malimus."
[Edit]Use alliterative names. - This helps your villain's name roll off the tongue. Give them at least two names that start with the same letter and/or sound. Say the names out loud to make sure they are clear and sound good together.[8]
- For example, name your villain something like "Samuel Snakeson" or "Kyle Killton."
[Edit]Make up something totally random. - Hey, at the end of the day, a name is just a name. Your villain can be called anything you want! Choose a regular name that makes sense for the setting and time period of your work, or mash up several names into one to come up with something unique.[9]
- For example, if you're writing a noir detective novel set in New York in the 1920s, your villain could be of Irish descent and be called something normal like "Conor O'Regan."
- A mashup of names could be something like "Johvid," a combination of "John" and "David."
[Edit]Double-check origins and meanings of names. - This helps avoid embarrassing mistakes before your work is published. For example, if your villain is Japanese and you give them what you think is a Japanese last name, look it up to make sure it's not actually from another Asian country. Or, if you think part of your villain's name means "snake" in German, look it up to be sure before you go any further.[10]
- For example, you might think "Kwon" sounds Japanese, but it's actually Korean.
- The word "schlange" is German for snake, but it could be easy to confuse with "schlang," which means "noosed" or "looped."
[Edit]References |
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