| How to Unfreeze Water Pipes Posted: 09 Dec 2016 04:00 PM PST Water can freeze in home pipes due to faulty taping, a malfunctioning thermostat, or inadequate insulation. Worse, the frozen water can rupture the pipe and cause major damage. Start by looking for cracks and split pipes, and locate the main shut-off valve so you can prevent a flood if necessary. If you've avoided this fate, apply mild heat or insulation to thaw the pipes. EditLocating the Frozen Pipe - Narrow down the search. Turn on all faucets to see which ones are working. If water is running through one faucet but not another, the problem is located along the pipes running between the two. Leave all faucets open slightly. A small trickle of running water from working faucets can prevent further freezing and help melt the ice. Leave blocked faucets open as well to reduce pressure on the pipes.
- Most American houses have faucets on external walls too, especially on the front and back of the house.
- Look in the most likely areas. If a large area of your house has no water, look in the most likely and accessible areas first before you start tearing apart walls. Use the steps below to focus on these areas, unless you managed to narrow down the search to a smaller portion of your house:
- Pipes in or near uninsulated crawlspaces, attics, or basements.
- Pipes near cold air vents or cold concrete.
- Outdoor valves and spigots.
- Outdoor pipes can freeze, but check these last, as most systems are designed to keep standing water out of these pipes.
- Search for cracks and leaks. Examine the pipes in the affected area carefully. Freezing water can cause pipes to crack from the change in pressure, usually splitting the pipe lengthwise or causing cracks in the joints.
- To look at the backs of pipes near walls, and in other difficult to reach areas, use a flashlight and a large dental mirror from a hardware store.
- If you find a leak, close the main shut-off valve immediately. Call a plumber to replace the pipe, or fix it yourself if you are up to the task.
- Find the frozen area. Assuming there are no leaks or cracks, find the section of the pipe with frozen water using one of the following methods.
- Feel the temperature of the pipe with your hand, or use an infrared thermometer to locate areas significantly colder than other pipes.
- Tap the pipe with a screwdriver handle or other object, listening for a more solid, less "hollow" sound.
- If you rule out all exposed pipes in the affected area, skip to the section on unfreezing pipes inside walls.
EditUnfreezing Water Pipes - Leave faucets slightly open. Open the faucet attached to the frozen pipe, and open nearby working faucets to a trickle. Running water is much less likely to freeze than standing water. If the running water passes through or near a frozen area, it may even help thaw the ice over the course of an hour or two.
- If you see any cracks in any pipe, turn off the main water supply to your house immediately, and close all faucets.
- Use a hair dryer or heat gun. Turn on a hair dryer and run it back and forth along the frozen pipe. Keep it moving and do not place the dryer directly against the pipe, as uneven or sudden heating can rupture the pipe. If your pipes are metal, you can use a more powerful heat gun in the same fashion.
- PVC pipes can be damaged at temperatures as low as 140ºF (60ºC). Never use a heat gun or other direct heat stronger than a hair dryer.
- Outdoor valves often have fiber washers or other non-heat-safe materials inside them. Heat them slowly and cautiously.
- Apply heat tape. Purchase electrical heat tape from a hardware store. Wrap the tape in a single layer around the length of the frozen pipe, then plug it into a power source. The tape consists of heating elements that warm up when turned on.
- Do not overlap electrical heat tape. Wrap it around the pipe only once or in a spiral pattern.
- Heat the surrounding air. Position space heaters, bare incandescent light bulbs, or heat lamps in the room with the frozen pipe, near the pipe but not touching it. Hang up tarps or blankets to trap the heat in a smaller area, but don't let them come into direct contact with the heat source. For large rooms, use several heat sources to ensure safe, even heating of the pipe.
- Add salt to frozen drains. Salt lowers the melting point of ice, causing it to melt at colder temperatures. Pour a tablespoon (15 mL) of salt down the drain, and give it time to act on the ice.
- You can try dissolving the salt in 1/2 cup (120 mL) boiling water first, but this risks bursting the pipe with a sudden temperature change.[1]
- Wrap the pipe in hot towels. Put on rubber gloves, and soak towels in hot water. Ring them out, then wrap them securely around the frozen section of pipe. Replace with freshly soaked, hot towels every 5–10 minutes until the pipe thaws.
- Do not leave cold wet towels around the pipes.
EditThawing Pipes inside Walls - Blow a fan heater into outdoor vents. If you can find an external vent, put down a fan heater blowing warm air into the vent. Use a cardboard box or tarp to minimize the amount of heat lost to the surrounding air.
- Turn up the central heating. Crank the heat in the house to around 75 to 80ºF (24–27ºC) and wait two to three hours.
- Open closet and cabinet doors so the warm air circulates as close to the walls as possible.
- Cut a hole in the wall. Unfortunately, this is often necessary to reach a frozen pipe before it bursts. Follow the instructions in the locating pipes section to isolate the most likely area of the problem. Use a keyhole saw to cut a hole into this area, then use any of the methods in the section on unfreezing pipes.
- If this is a recurring problem, consider installing a cabinet door over the hole instead of fully repairing the wall, for ease of access next time this occurs.
EditPreventing Frozen Pipes - Insulate the pipes. Keep pipes in cold areas wrapped with "pipe sponge" covers, rags, or other insulating material. If an electrical outlet is nearby, you can keep them wrapped with electrical heat tape, unplugged, then plug the tape in whenever cold weather arrives.
- Protect the pipes from wind and cold air. Check your crawlspaces and external walls for holes, and repair them to minimize exposure to cold air. Use wind barriers or faucet covers to protect faucets and valves on the exterior of the house.
- Heat the area. During cold weather, turn on a 60 watt incandescent light bulb near the area of pipe that previously froze, or just below it. If used to warm crawl spaces and other unsupervised areas, make sure there are no flammable materials kept in the same space.
- Leave a trickle of water running. It is much more difficult for pipes to freeze if water is running through them, since the water will usually travel through the pipe before it has time to freeze. During sub-freezing weather, keep faucets slightly open to allow a trickle of water.
- You can adjust the ballast in your toilet tank to keep it running even when the tank is full.
- If the weather is expected to warm up within a day, using bottled water until then can be more cost-effective than using new tools and energy to thaw the pipes.
- Do not break through drywall unless you are sure of the location of the frozen pipe.
- Never pour drain cleaner or other chemicals down your frozen pipe, as they can burst the pipe by creating too much gas or heat. A small amount of hot water can be used as a last resort, but even this is risky.
- Never use a torch to heat a frozen pipe. You can destroy the pipe and cause a fire.
- Always work in a dry environment when utilizing electrical equipment.
EditThings You'll Need - Infrared thermometer
- Hair dryer
- Heat gun
- Rags
- Water
- Electrical heat tape
- Keyhole saw
- Space heater
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
| How to Straighten Thick, Curly Hair Without Damaging It Posted: 09 Dec 2016 08:00 AM PST Thick, curly hair can be an unmanageable mess! However, you don't want to damage it by excessively straightening it into manageability. The best way to deal with this is by straightening as little as possible (a couple times a week, at most). EditGetting Started - Invest in a good flatiron. The most important thing you can do for your curly hair if you want to straighten it well is to get a really good flatiron. Find one that has multiple heat settings, so that you can experiment and find the heat setting that best straightens your hair.[1]
- Your flatiron should last about ten years, but you don't want one that has been around since the Dark Ages.
- Curly-haired girls will want to look for gold or titanium plated flatiron, because these are better for your hair.
- Make sure your flatiron is the right size. You want one that has wider plates that range in size from one and a half inches to two inches wide. This lets you cover more surface area in less time.[2]
- You should also be wary of the weight of your flatiron. You're going to be dragging it through your hair frequently and straightening takes time. You're not trying to end up looking like a bodybuilder because your flatiron is too heavy.
- Wash and condition your hair. When you straighten your hair, especially hair that is thick and curly, you need to wash it first. This prepares your hair for the straighten process. It's good to use gentle products because you're about to put your hair through a process that is tough on it.
- Use a smoothing conditioner to get your hair on the right track before you begin straightening it.
- Dry your hair so that it is damp with a towel. It's best to use a microfiber towel or a t-shirt as a towel. These are gentler on the hair cuticle and lead to less frizz when you have thick curly hair.
- Getting your hair to the damp stage before blow-drying it means that you spend less time blow-drying it so that it isn't as damaged as it could be.
- Apply heat protector when you've finished showering. You're looking for something that helps to product your hair while you're straightening. Because of the oils in this product you need to apply it two and a half inches from your scalp.[3]
- A little goes a long way, so use only a very small amount (little more than a drop of product).
- Apply from the bottom of your hair up, using your fingers as a comb.
- If absolutely possible, find a heat protector that doesn't have oils or silicone and can protect your hair from frizz.
- Blow-dry your hair first. Because you can burn your hair if you try to straighten it when it's wet or damp you need to blow-dry it first. With a round-bristle brush pull your hair as flat and as straight as possible while you blow-dry it.
- Alternate between your blow-dryer's hot and cool settings so that you are in less danger of overheating your hair.
- Remember that this can take awhile when you have thick, curly hair. You really do want to make sure your hair is completely dry before you start to straighten it.
- Keep the nozzle facing downwards as you blow-dry to cut down on frizz.
EditStraightening Your Hair - Section your hair. This does not mean that you are randomly grabbing fistfuls and hair and trying to straighten those. When you have sections that are too thick the iron can't straighten them properly and you will need to reapply heat which is more likely to cause damage to your hair.
- When you create sections it is easier to keep track of your progress. So split your hair into the middle at the back and bring it forward. This gives you two sections. Because you're trying to straighten thick, curly hair you'll need to separate it into at least four sections. Two on top and two on the bottom.
- Make sure the rest of the sections are clipped out of the way when you are working on one of them.
- Pick the right heat setting. Because your hair is thicker and curlier you're going to need a higher heat setting. While you still probably won't want to go all the way up to 450 degrees, you'll need to do a little experimenting to see what temperature works best to straighten your hair.
- If your hair is color treated as well as thick and curly you will need to stay in the safer zone of 300 degrees to 350 degrees.
- Straighten the bottom sections of your hair first. You want to clip the top two sections on the top of your head so they're out of the way. Divide the two sections you've already created on the bottom part of your hair into smaller sections, about one to two inches wide.[4]
- Use a comb or brush to pull a section of hair as taut as possible with your one hand, while smoothing your flatiron along that section with the other hand.
- You start at the roots of your hair and move the ends of your hair in one fluid smoothing motion.
- Avoid going over the same sections more than once. This rule isn't set in stone, especially for thick, curly hair, but the more you avoid going over your sections more than once, the less damaged your hair is going to be in the long run.
- Finish up with some smoothing product. This will give you the smooth, polished look and cut down on frizz as much as possible. It's good to have a smoothing product that resists humidity, if you're living in a place where that's an issue.
- Serums are the best choice for thick hair.
- It's also a good idea to apply it to your hair after it's cooled down from the straightening process. Coat a brush with product and brush it through your hair for an even application.
EditTroubleshooting Thick Hair - Add volumizing spray if your hair is too flat. Sometimes people have a tendency to over-straighten their hair, especially if they have thick or curly hair. If this happens then the best thing to do is add a little volumizing spray to your hair to perk it up a bit.
- Tamp down on frizz with product. Frizz is the bane of every curly girl's existence. This is especially true if you live somewhere that has lots of rain or humidity. Product is your friend. Use it.
- There is some debate about silicon based serums. Some say they are the best thing ever and some people swear that they make their hair too greasy. You'll have to decide what works best for you, silicone or no silicone.
- Split super curly hair into quarters horizontally rather than thirds. This can make your hair a lot more manageable when you're straightening it and it will help you to get those pesky back portions of your hair.
- Stop if you hear your hair start to sizzle. Two things can cause your hair to sizzle when you're straightening it. One, your hair is not completely dry. If this is the case, cease with the straightening and get with the drying.[5]
- If your hair is perfectly dry it could be that there is excess product build-up in your hair. Make sure that you're selective about which products you put in your hair (it's a good idea to avoid alcohol based products).
- A good tactic for kids going to school is to straighten your hair the day before and do touch-ups in the morning, otherwise you may not make it to school on time.
- If you prefer to towel dry, use an old T-shirt instead of a towel to avoid hair breakage (frizz).
- Avoid excessive amounts of heat or chemicals as you will damage your hair.
- Try not to straighten your hair so much that it has NO life left, leave a little curl to the ends so you don't look like you have a wig on.
- Invest in a good quality straightener, otherwise you may have many, many bad hair days.
- You may want a dryer with an iron switch, as it will help prevent the dreaded "static head".
- If you repeatedly straighten your hair you will damage it, no matter how careful you are. Consider wearing your curls naturally.
- Never ever put a flat iron on top of a towel, it will slowly burn.
- Never use a flat iron on wet or damp hair. You will burn your hair and cause irreversible damage
- Do not towel dry. This tangles your hair and will make it curl.
- Do not leave a flat iron unattended. It can burn a house down.
- It's best to avoid straightening your hair more than once or twice a month, because too much more than that and you will damage your hair no matter what heat treatments and techniques you use.[6]
EditThings You'll Need - Round Brush
- Blow Dryer
- Flat Iron
- Heat-Protection Spray
- De-frizz serum or cream
- Wide-tooth comb
- Conditioner
- Shampoo
- Towel
- Oil sheen or grease
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
| How to Cat Proof Your Christmas Tree Posted: 09 Dec 2016 12:00 AM PST Is your cat smitten by your Christmas tree, so intrigued that she clambers onto it, knocking needles, decorations and tinsel everywhere? Or perhaps she has even come close to knocking over the entire tree? Keeping your curious cat out of the Christmas tree is a wise idea for everyone involved, to help avoid injury to your cat and the potential for further damage to the items near the tree and people in the vicinity of it. - Start off smart by considering the type of tree you'll use. Real Christmas trees are potentially more dangerous to your cat than artificial ones. This is because the needles on a real tree are sharp and can pierce or puncture the skin of an overly curious cat, while the pine needles themselves are irritating to mildly toxic if chewed (depending on the species of tree used). However, a chewed artificial tree isn't going to be that healthy either, so balance the choice of tree type with how you intend to keep the tree safe from your cat using the remaining steps.
- Consider the size of the tree. A small tree will be safer than a larger tree because there is less of it to crash down if things go horribly wrong. For a kitten, a tabletop tree might be a suitable choice until it grows up and stops being so playful.
- If you do choose a real tree, also choose a water container for the tree that is completely inaccessible to the cat. If she tries to drink from it, she risks poisoning.
- For small kittens, wrap tinfoil around the trunk. They don't like putting their nails into it and it will keep them from climbing the tree.
- Select a strong and unwavering base for holding the tree. Always err on the side of caution when selecting a tree base and get one that is guaranteed to stay firmly in place if the tree is knocked. This is as important for the safety of children as it is for pets. Ask your retailer for advice on the options provided in-store.
- Even an artificial tree should have a firm and solid base.
- Use a tree skirt to hide all ugly but practical safety fixes at the base of the tree (including electrical items, see below).
- As well as a solid base, anchor the tree to the wall or ceiling to help prevent it from toppling over should your cat land in the tree or pull on it.
- Choose a safe location for the tree. There should be plenty of room around the tree so that it isn't too near climbing items. If there are tempting shelves or furniture pieces to act as launchpads for kitty, she's very likely to avail herself of them and jump onto the tree. Keep the tree in a clear space that makes jumping either difficult or unlikely.
- If possible, select a placement for the tree that allows you to shut the door at night or when nobody is about, in order to keep the cats away from the tree. Obviously this isn't always possible or even doable but if it is an option, make use of it.
- If the tree is shorter than 6 feet (180cm), you might find it handy to use duct tape to tape the legs of the holder to a piece of wide plywood and put the whole tree on a short but very sturdy table. This keeps the tree above the level of the cat and the cat won't be as interested. Of course, you still need to ensure that the tree is nowhere near any launching points for an opportunistic jump.
- Consider not decorating the tree initially. The rationale behind this is to provide adjustment time to the tree, as well as a possible lesson for your cat in leaving the tree well alone. Fill a spray bottle with water and hang on to it. It is a good idea to set the tree in place, then let her in to investigate but hover in the background with the spray bottle, just in case. If your cat shows any signs of wanting to leap at or on the tree, a light spritz of water on her back and a stern "NO!" will get the point across. This should deter her from trying it again and should be enough to teach her that the Christmas tree is not her playground.
- If you're still concerned prior to decorating the tree, spray it with a product called Bitter Apple. This will deter her without leaving a noticeable odor to human noses. Or, you might try a citrus spray, as cats are repelled by citrus odor too.
- If it's a plastic tree, a small amount of Citronella oil shaken into a bottle of water and misted on to the tree makes it smell unpleasant to the cat but fresh and citrus-like to you.
- You could also place orange peels under the tree to make your cat less likely to go near it. (Cats also dislike the smell of rotten apples but then you probably won't like that smell much either!)
- Spray some pine cones with Citronella and pile them around the base of the tree. Cats do not walk on pine cones! (Pine cones also have the same effect in the base of your houseplants.)
- Decorate the tree with your cat firmly out of the way. It's hard enough fiddling with trees, decorations and breakable ornaments without also having felines running up past you and pelting at the objects as you're gingerly hanging them up. Your cat will assume this is a game you intend for her to play, so it's just easiest to keep her out of the way until everything has been set up.
- While decorating, if your cat is about, resist the urge to tease her with decorations as you're adding them. Doing so will only encourage her to see the glittery items as toys and things to swat at anytime she pleases.
- Choose ornaments less likely to be attractive to your cats. Some ornaments will prove irresistible because they sparkle, glow, dangle and shimmer. On the other hand, blander, less shiny or flat matte objects which don't dangle much will have less allure for your cat. Felt, paper and plain decorations might be the best choice. And avoid anything that dangles a lot, jumps about or spins.
 - Never put catnip stuffed items on the tree. That's just asking for it.
- Consider not having certain decorations at all. Tinsel is potentially hazardous for cats who chew it and swallow it and it is not recommended for households with cats; it can cause choking or other internal problems if swallowed, such as intestinal blockage. So can ribbons and other items with length that dangle from the tree. Artificial snow is toxic and should not be used when you have pets and small children. Christmas is stressful and expensive enough without the emergency surgery necessary to save your cat's life if sharp-edged tinsel slices through the intestinal wall or causes a blockage.
- It is recommended that you don't use real candles on a tree when you have pets. Things can all too easily go wrong with a quick swipe of the paw and flames upon flammable items as a result.
- If you like decorating the tree with food, be careful what you add. Chocolate of any kind is toxic for cats and the odor may be tempting to them if hung from the tree. Lots of sweets aren't healthy either.
- Place decorations that are especially delicate, enticing or dangerous high up the tree, in the top two-thirds of the tree. Your cat is less likely to reach for higher parts of the tree (provided you've ensured there are no leaping ledges or spots nearby), which will help to keep these items safe. Tinsel, if used at all, should be placed up high as it is likely to be dragged off by a curious cat and as already noted, it can be very harmful if ingested, including getting caught in the stomach and intestines. Some people choose to not even decorate the lower third of the tree at all. That way, there is nothing of interest at cat's eye level.
- Some cats cannot help themselves and will climb up high whatever you do. If your cat is like this, then avoid having any delicate or potentially dangerous items on the tree at all.
- Attach ornaments onto the tree securely so that they cannot be simply pelted or lifted off. Use metal hooks that clamp to the tree and avoid using string, rubber bands or anything else dangly to attach the ornaments with. When you've attached the decorations, give them a tug to check that the method of attaching that you've used is adequate and requires dexterous strength to remove.
- Hang ornaments by using quality wire ornament hangers. Use a pair of pliers to clamp the hook part around the branch so that it doesn't dangle and cannot be simply pulled off.
- Be careful with electrical wires and lighting. A Christmas tree is complete when its lights are on but the wires can prove too much of a temptation to a curious kitty. Be sure to tape down excess wire and to make it too hard for the cat to reach the power point and cord join. Do not leave any wires dangling – wrap wire around the base or tree rather than having it dangling anywhere. It can also be helpful to cover exposed wires in wire covers or piping to prevent the cat from chewing them.
- Cords can also be coated in "Bitter Apple".
- Plug the tree lights into a short indoor extension cord and tape the plug into the socket with electrical tape. Simply unplug the lights from the extension cord to turn off.
- Consider using cords that shut off if damaged.
- Always turn off Christmas tree lights when there is no responsible adult in the room to keep an eye on them.
- Relax now. You've done all you can to secure the tree and to make it a safe experience for your cat. Some cats will climb into the tree whatever you do and provided you've made it safe, it's best to reach a place of acceptance about this and go with the flow. Decide to make it your cat's Christmas and decide that you are not going to get frustrated trying to outsmart your cat this Christmas. Provided you've secured the tree to keep it from toppling and properly clamped ornaments to the branches, you will be able to cope if your cat does hop into the tree. And if that happens, be ready to take pictures of your cat sleeping in the Christmas tree branches – and smile.
- Try plastic ornaments instead of glass. And twist the wire ornament hook around the branch instead if just hanging from the hook shape provided.
- Keep all of the cat toys, water, food, and any other cat items in a different room. This will make the cat less tempted.
- Apple cider vinegar can be sprayed in place of "Bitter Apple"
- You can place clear contact paper, sticky side up, under the tree. Cats won't walk on sticky surfaces.
- Distract your cat. Place toys she likes in the same room as the tree and place his/her scratching post reasonably near to the tree. These are his/her things and encourage his/her to use them rather than hang around the tree.
- Make sure that your kitten(s) or cat(s) are away from the presents so that they don't rip off the gift wrap.
- Consider getting the baby fences. This way, your cats can't go near the tree, but they can still explore the house. The baby fence could even be painted holiday colors to make it less ugly. Decorate it too! However, many cats can jump over certain types of fences, so be careful about which one you choose!
- Consider getting Scotch Pines. They have sharp needles to repel cats. However, this very sharpness can be a potential hazard, so weigh this up before deciding.
- Try spraying your tree with a little orange juice. Cats hate the smell of citrus[1], so orange juice can act as a deterrent. Slices of orange can also be used for decoration.
- A few drops of tea tree oil sprayed on the tree works too.
- Spray the tree with lemon juice.
- Take an orange peel and put it on the lights and the bottom of the tree. Cats hate the smell of citrus, it's not noticeable, and your cat won't break any ornaments!
- Try not to put ribbons on your presents this will tempt your cats even more!
- You could also add extra tape to the corners of your presents, so kitty won't tear the wrapping paper off as easily.
- You could anchor your tree to the wall for a little extra security. Use a screw and thin wire - you won't be able to see it.
- Don't use tinsel and only use shatter proof bulbs.
- When you lock the cats up for the night, try to shut the door to the room with the tree. You'll sleep better knowing they're not swaying from it during the night.
- Never leave a kitten in a gift box or carrier under the Christmas tree as a gift; this is dangerous and cruel. If giving a wanted and agreed upon kitten for Christmas, keep the kitten in another room well cared for and bring her out as a gift when it's time, in your hands. Be sure that someone responsible is available all day to care for her, as the noise and excitement is likely to be overwhelming and she should be allowed to retreat as needed. Most importantly, a cat should only be given as a Christmas gift if a family decision has been reached that this is a life-long commitment that particular family members willingly take on.
- Don't spray a tree that has electrical items on it. Water and electricity have a habit of short-circuiting into a house fire.
- Aspirin is often added to tree water. This is toxic to your cat. Add sugar instead but still ensure that your cat cannot reach the water because it is likely to have pine sap, preservatives, pesticides and other toxic elements in it.
- Do not put any harmful things on the tree, like human food. If your cat decides to be curious and lick or eat it, then it could make your kitty very sick.
- Do not leave hooks laying around, your cat can eat them, and this will probably hurt your kitty's insides.
- Be extra vigilant with kittens. Keep them from chewing on the extension cord and shocking themselves. Anything that wiggles and jiggles will attract their attention.
- Never use tinsel around cats. They may pull it down and spread it over the house and possibly chew on it and choke. Tinsel will cause the cat serious injury or death if ingested - contact your vet right away if you think your cat has chewed, eaten or swallowed any tinsel (or any ribbon or string for that matter).
- If you have a live Christmas tree with needles, always sweep up dead needles daily to remove temptation from pets and little people.
EditThings You'll Need - Cord ties, cord covers
- Bitter Apple, citronella oil, apple cider vinegar, etc.
- Spray bottle and water
- Things to tether or anchor the tree
- Solid, heavy tree base
- Proper metal clamp hooks and pliers
- Safe decorations
- Cat distractions
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
No comments:
Post a Comment