| How to Care for a Christmas Tree Posted: 04 Dec 2016 04:00 PM PST When you choose to decorate your home with a real Christmas tree, there are steps you can take to keep the tree green, healthy and safe throughout the holiday season. If you love the characteristic aroma of an evergreen tree, then you need to take care of it at the source. It's important that you know to to appropriately choose and care for your tree so that it can last longer and you can be more environmentally conscious. EditPicking a Good Tree - Choose a healthy tree. If at all possible, buy a Christmas tree from a tree farm, where you can purchase your tree while it's still in the ground. A freshly cut Christmas tree will last longer than one that's been cut weeks ago and shipped to distant retail outlets.
- Steer clear of trees with a large number of dead or browning needles––these trees are already past their prime. Gently stroke a branch on the tree to make sure that the needles are flexible and remain on the tree.
EditMaking Space in Your Home - Choose and clear a location for the tree. It should be kept away from open flames or heat sources, which may dry it out prematurely. Trees do sometimes burn so be careful (see Warnings below). Corners are good places to put trees because this placement keeps the tree safe from knocks and bumps.
- If you'll be using lights to decorate your tree, place the tree close to an outlet. If this isn't possible, you'll need to use an extension cord. Be sure that if you use an extension cord, it runs along to wall and doesn't create a trip hazard.
- Cover the floor where the tree will be placed. You can use a properly sewn tree skirt or be budget savvy and use Christmas-themed paper or a piece of satin fabric as shown. This will not only serve decorative purposes, but it will also help protect the floor in case any water splashes out.
- If you have a skirt that goes over the cradle, you can still place a barrier underneath the cradle and apply the decorative skirt after the tree has been mounted. Not only does this make the tree more presentable but it prevents pets from attempting or wanting to drink the water in the base.
EditMounting the Tree - Prepare the base of your tree. Using a small handsaw, cut about a half inch to an inch (1.3cm-2.5cm) off the bottom to aid water absorption.
- Note: It is recommended that you don't cut the base at an angle, in a V-shape or drill a hole in the base. None of these methods help water absorption and they may make it more difficult to hold the tree safely in the stand.
- DO NOT cut the tree with a reciprocal saw or any blade that moves so fast that it will create friction. If the cut gets hot enough, the sap in the tree will seal the end and make water absorption impossible. A chainsaw or manual saw will work.
- Mount your tree within eight hours of cutting the base. That is how long a fresh tree can go without water before absorption is jeopardized. A Christmas tree should never be mounted dry. It is much better to place it in a container of water that is replenished on a regular basis. You can buy special tree cradles or stands which screw into the base of the tree and provide watering space. Or, you can go for the rougher but tried-and-true method of using a bucket filled with small rocks (put the tree in, fill the bucket with rocks around the trunk). The tree should be provided with 1 quart (950ml) of water for every inch (2.5cm) in trunk diameter.
- Note: ensure that whatever you use, the tree is stable. Don't whittle down the bark of the tree just so that it can fit in the stand - that outer layer is the part that absorbs the most water.
- Make sure the tree is straight. It is a good idea for at least two people to put up the tree, one holding it stable while the other fixes the base. Always stand back to check that the tree is straight before you get busy decorating. Obviously, it is easiest to fix at this stage.
- Before decorating let the tree sit for a while to "settle" into its shape. Some suggest just an hour or so, others overnight.
EditDecorating the Tree Safely - Decorate the tree. For many, this is the most enjoyable part. It's also a good time to think about Christmas tree safety. A properly maintained Christmas tree should not be a fire hazard, as long as you use common sense in decorating it. For example:
- Check each string of lights to ensure that the bulbs are working properly.
- Inspect the cords to make sure they are not frayed or bitten by pets, and that the connections are secure.
- Discard any decorations that look questionable and replace them. Tree ornaments are not expensive items to replace, but your house is.
- Place small and fragile ornaments out of the reach of small children and pets to prevent accidental breakage or ingestion.
EditTaking Care of the Tree - Water the tree. To start, you'll need to make sure your tree gets lots of water because in the first few hours that it's settling in, it will need plenty and will drink like crazy (possibly a full gallon/3.7 liters on the first day). (Also see Tips below.) Afterward, you will need to add water almost every day. Not only is regular water good for the tree's vitality, but a well-watered tree is less dry and therefore, less combustible. Make sure you never let the water level go below the base of the tree.
- Some people put an aspirin in the water to help keep it fresh. Some also add Ginger Ale, Sprite™ or another similar soda drink (fizzy lemonade) to feed their tree. Be careful, though; if you accidentally bump the can whilst watering the tree, you might end up with very sticky presents!
- Check for sap leakage. It is a good idea to check occasionally for sap that has leaked from your tree onto nearby furnishings or floor coverings. The sooner you catch any sap leakages, the easier they are to remove.
- Collect fallen pine needles. Use a dustpan and brush or a handheld vacuum (many needles going into a larger vacuum can easily clog it up; this may even break the machine, whereas a handheld version works well because you are obliged to keep emptying it as you work).
- This is a daily ritual, unless you want to have an enormous pile of needles to clean up when you finally move the tree. The needles are unsightly and potentially hazardous for curious pets and infants.
- A well-watered tree will lose fewer needles but all fresh trees will lose some needles.
EditDisposing of the Tree - Dispose of your tree as garden waste. Your tree has given you its life and has done a great service in being a part of your Christmas spirit. If your municipality has a tree collection program, you can make use of it. If you have room in the garden, you can leave your tree there until spring, when you can chip it into garden mulch (or, if you live where Christmas occurs in summer, you can chip the tree as soon as you remove it).
- Some people choose to dispose of their old and decaying Christmas trees in lakes. If you live in an area warm enough to do this, consider that a Christmas tree would provide a healthy hiding place for fish and other underwater critters. Check with local officials or park rangers before depositing old trees into lakes.
- Use LED Christmas lights to help keep down the heat on the tree (and also to conserve energy). Turn off the lights when not in use to save energy and to lessen any potential for fire danger.
- Try not to use water that's been treated through a home water softener system. Water softener water has high levels of sodium in it which will actually shorten the life of the cut tree. If possible, find a faucet in the house that is not "downstream" of the water softener. Otherwise, you can use distilled water or bottled water, but bottled water may also contain traces of sodium (but usually lower than water softener water).
- Never leave your house unattended with your Christmas tree lights still on as it could catch on fire. If you're traveling but a family is going there and you leave the lights on, consider a neighbor checking to make sure it's not too hot.
- If you accidentally let the tree run out of water, it may dry out and shed its needles. The only way to solve this problem is to cut another inch off the base and water generously.[1]
- Make sure that the tree is far from heat sources, heaters, fire places, ovens, etc., as it might catch fire. Make sure your tree is well watered. slide your hand over a branch so to see if the needles fall off that is lack of water and will catch fire quickly. So be sure it is watered and not a fire hazard.
- Christmas trees are quite needy, so water it every day.
- Remember never to leave lights on when no one is at home or everyone is sleeping.
- Be careful when watering, since water and electricity do not mix well.
- Don't overload electrical circuits.
- Do not put flammable or heat-producing items close to the tree, ever. That means keeping such items as candles, TVs, stereos, electric heaters etc. well away from the tree.
- Cats and dogs are notorious for knocking down Christmas trees and making a big mess. If you have a cat, a dog or other pet in the house, keep them out of the room where the tree is located or take steps to dog-proof or cat-proof your Christmas tree.
- Do not run a green fir tree through a chipper. The combination of resin and needles may clog it up, leaving you with a difficult cleaning job.
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| How to Gel Your Hair Posted: 04 Dec 2016 08:00 AM PST Hair gel is one of the oldest styling products around, and can be used to create styles that range from slicked-back to messy and spiky. Applying gel isn't difficult, when you have your ideal hair style in mind. Whether you're simply trying to tame your frizz, or you want to have a particularly dashing look for your next formal event, hair gel may become your new best friend. EditApplying Hair Gel - Choose the right gel. Hair gels are usually categorized by the thickness of the compound and the power of the hold. The color and the scent of hair gels generally doesn't make any difference in terms of how they work. Most gels are applied with the fingertips, but there are a few which are spray-on. Decide which is best for your style, or try out each one and see which you prefer.
- A light, foamy gel is effective in creating a playful, messy look. You'll still be able to have some bounce and some life in your hair.
- A medium-hold gel is great for shiny spikes, getting your hair to stay in almost gravity-defying ways.
- A thick gel will give you a slicked-back look, holding it in place firmly all day. You might not be able to run your fingers through it, but it'll hold fast in a windstorm.
- Wash your hair to get started. Starting with a solid foundation of clean hair will make creating your gelled style much easier. Shampoo and condition your hair as per normal, and then use a towel to dry it until damp. It's important to have damp hair when you apply gel, so don't dry it thoroughly. If you're short on time, dampening your hair in the sink is also a good option.[1]
- Applying gel to dirty or greasy hair can make the gel less affective and more "crunchy" looking. It also promotes split ends and poor hair health, so it's always a good idea to give your hair a thorough washing first.
- Scoop out some of the gel. Put a small dab of hair gel onto your fingertips and rub your hands together to coat your hands evenly and rub it into your hair, as if it were shampoo. Depending on how thick and long your hair is, you'll need to use an appropriate amount of be sure to spread it evenly across your fingertips. Remember, you can always add more, but it's hard to get hair gel out of your hair without rewashing, so go easy:
- Use a dime-sized amount for short hair.
- Use a quarter-sized amount for medium-length hair.
- Use two or more quarter-sized amounts for long (or especially thick) hair.
- Apply the gel. Style your hair according to the look you're going for (as aforementioned). Generally, you should start with the gel just above your hairline, and work it back towards the crown of your head/nape of your neck. Use your fingers to apply the gel, and if desired, use a comb to better incorporate the gel afterwards.
- For a straight-haired look, brush or shape hair to your desired style.
- Scrunch or twist your hair with your fingers to encourage curls.
- To give curly or wavy hair extra volume, especially at the roots, flip your head over to scrunch the gel in evenly.
- Complete your style. Most hair gels contain alcohol which allows them to dry quickly. If yours does not, you'll need to wait a few minutes for the gel to set. You can manipulate the gel while it's wet, but once it dries it will become stiff and firm. When the gel has set, your look is finished and you're ready to show off your new hair![2]
EditDeciding on a Style - Try a messy and informal look. Gel is the best go-to hair product for creating that messy-yet-sophisticated look with your hair. This is great for days when you want to look casual yet put-together, and don't have much time to style your hair.
- To create this look, spread the gel through your hair using only your fingertips, moving strands in different directions and taming fly-aways.
- The best gel for this type of look would be a lighter gel, and the best type of hair would be medium-length hair of moderate thickness.
- Try a simple part. If you don't want to spend a lot of time on your hair and are just looking for a way to keep it in place, gel is a good option. The idea with this style is that you make your hair look as natural as possible, parting it along it's natural line, but without risking frizz and a cowlick as the day goes on that would come from simply combing.
- Put a very small amount of gel in your hands, and finger-style your hair, pulling it down the side of your head along the part, in opposite directions.
- Take a comb and dampen it slightly under the water, then comb along the hair in the direction you started, if you want it to look slightly neater.
- This type of look is best with thinner hair of moderate or short length, but is also perfectly useful for all types of hair. It can be an effective style for masking a receding hairline, as well.
- Go for a classic slicked-back look. Few things are as sophisticated as a slicked-back hair style reminiscent of Don Draper, Pat Riley, or Jay Gatsby. This type of hairstyle looks classy and simple. This look is best for special occasions and formal settings, and can be achieved with a heavy amount of gel and a fine-tooth comb.
- Spread the gel through your hair, sweeping your hair from the line of your forehead toward the back of your head, without parting it. Use the damp comb to sweep it into place as neatly and flatly as possible.
- This type of look works best with medium-longish hair of moderate thickness. It can emphasize a receding hairline, so be cautious if things aren't quite as thick up there as they used to be.
- Try spiking your hair. If you've always dreamt of rockstar spiked hair, you can easily recreate the look with some of your favorite hair gel. Although this style is generally only appropriate for casual settings (don't wear it on a first date) it can be a fun change of pace.
- Use a dollop of gel on your fingertips, and spread it upwards through your hair, pulling your hair away from your head and pinching it in between your fingers to create spikes. For a milder look, you can do this only to the front portion of your hair.[3]
- Wait a few minutes and the let the initial spikes dry, then get a very tiny amount of gel on your fingertips and go back through, strengthening the spikes and building them up slightly, if you want to really emphasize them.
- This style looks best with medium-length hair of moderate thickness. If it's too long, you'll probably need to use hair spray (and maybe even egg whites) in conjunction with the gel to get things to stay in place.
- Try a pompadour. You know you want to. Channel your inner Elvis Presley and Conan O'Brien with this almost over-the-top rockabilly style. It's maybe the most challenging to style and to pull off, but it's basically a combination of some of the above techniques. Even if you just try it while you're sitting around the house one day, it's something to cross off the bucket list.
- Put a liberal amount of gel into your fingertips and do a basic mussed-up look, getting your hair into a combination of spikes and casual messiness. Then, take a medium-tooth comb, wet it, and run it along the sides of your head, above each ear.
- If you want a more formal pompadour, you can do a neat part along your natural hairline to one side with the comb, keeping it straight, then do the same straight-back action with the comb on both sides. You might need to use your fingers to get the front tips up as high as you want.
- This works best for hair that's longish on top and quite short, or even buzzed, on the sides.
- Remember that certain styles, if kept for a long time, will use a large amount of gel. Opt for high-maintenance hairstyles only for special occasions. If it'll work on your hair length, try using stronger gel around the tips rather than normal strength throughout your head.
- Try using a leave in conditioner under gel to soften its effects.
- Use only the needed gel strength for your hair. Too much hold gives you "helmet head," and that just doesn't look good on everyone. The same thing goes for the amount of hair gel; a small amount is usually sufficient.
- If you have hair that frizzes easily you may want to dry your hair after applying gel.
- Your gel may leave a white residue behind and flake off. This could be caused by several factors. You could be using too much gel, so try less gel or upgrade to a higher strength for the same amount of hold. You could also be using too high a strength of gel for your needs, so switch to a lower strength. You also could be using a low-quality gel.
- Shop around. A $3 to $6 gel at your local supermarket might work better for you than a $20 brand-name gel. Figure out what texture and consistency work best in your hair.
- If your gel causes discoloration or itchiness, wash your hair as soon as possible; you could be allergic to an ingredient.
- If you have oily hair or wear it for more than one day without washing, avoid using gel near or on the roots.
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| How to Keep Dogs Warm in the Winter Posted: 04 Dec 2016 12:00 AM PST Does your dog shiver when you go outside for just a minute or does it like to frolic in the snow? During the winter season, many dogs feel the cold as much as their owners do, especially when they are not used to the cold. However, other dogs have been bred to deal with the cold better than any human ever could. In order to keep your specific dog warm through the winter months it is important to think about their breed and their health, while also remembering that it's worth your time to make sure your pup stays nice and warm all winter. EditCaring for Dogs During the Winter - Groom your dog well. Avoid trimming, shaving or cutting your dog's hair because a dog's full weight coat is his source of warmth during winter. It is important to maintain a good grooming regime, combing out knots and brushing the coat thoroughly, through winter too, as matted hair is less efficient at keeping out the snow and cold rain, and does not insulate the dog as well.[1] Consistent grooming can alleviate dander problems in dogs living through dry winters, should this be a problem for your dog.
- Bathe your dog indoors. Make sure your dog is completely dried before letting him or her outside. Give fewer baths during cold snaps, or consider skipping baths altogether. Remember, in cold weather it takes the dog longer to dry off. This will help you to keep them away from severe cold problems.
- If important, give shorter baths with warm water and dry your dog as quickly as possible. Never bathe a dog in cold water, as this will chill him or her, and the low atmospheric temperature will give him or her little chance to warm up.
- Keep the hair around paw pads well trimmed. This will help prevent ice and snow balling up between footpads.[2] After walks outside, check paw pads for cracks, cuts, and any foreign debris. Where practical, keep his or her pads in good condition by applying a little vaseline or E45 to condition them, but beware of sticky paw prints over the house though!
- If your dog won't wear dog booties, be sure to clean off the salt and snow removal chemicals after every walk; the chemicals can be toxic and the salt will become an irritant.
- Avoid overfeeding your dog. It is important for your dog to eat regularly and well during colder months, in order to keep up energy and warmth. However, an indoor dog does not need increased food amounts over the winter. Doing so can risk creating an overweight dog.
- More food for a dog is only justifiable for dogs living outdoors all of the time and for dogs who are especially active during the winter months. Talk to your vet about your dog's particular energy needs.
- Be sure that your dog has constant access to clean, unfrozen water, indoors and outdoors. Heated bowls can be purchased for use outside.
EditKeeping Your Dog Healthy Over the Winter - Guard against canine winter illnesses. As with humans, dogs can fall ill during the colder months, especially when cold or as a result of winter conditions. Respiratory infections in damp climates, frostbite, and consumption of toxic substances are some of the principal concerns.
- Keep your dog dry and warm. This will help to guard against respiratory infections, such as kennel cough (the human equivalent of a cold). If your dog gets a respiratory infection, seek veterinary attention immediately. Be aware that if you have several dogs all sharing the same air space, such as in a communal kennel, then illnesses are more likely to spread.[3]
- Frostbite can be a problem for some dogs, especially hairless varieties. Check the ear tips and tail tips in particular. If they look and feel cold, appear white, red or gray, and/or are dry and hard, then frostbite may have occurred.[4][5]
- If you suspect frostbite, wrap your dog's extremities in blankets or towels to warm them gradually and see the vet immediately.[6]
- Keep winter-time toxic items away from dogs. Anti-freeze tastes unusually sweet to dogs and they will lick it if they can access it. It only takes four teaspoons worth to kill a dog under 10 pounds.[7]
- If your dog does ingest antifreeze, see a vet immediately, as treatment needs to be given within hours to save your dog's life.
- Another toxic problem during winter is rat bait, used in greater amounts due to everyone living in close proximity over winter. Keep all toxic items well out of the reach of dogs and other pets and clean up any spills immediately.
- Pay attention to your dog's existing ailments. Your dog's arthritis and osteoarthritis can be exacerbated by cold weather. Talk to your vet about medication, treatment options, and ways to keep your arthritic dog fit and warm through winter.
- Take shorter walks when the weather is severely cold. Don't try to take your dog on the same length walks as during warmer weather. A shorter walk can still accomplish enough exercise and relief breaks without causing your dog (and you) to become too cold.
- Even if you are indoors, keep exercising. Play indoor games with your dog, such as fetch, tug-of-war, hiding toys, and if it's possible to let them run around inside, then do so. Run them up and down the stairs for agility practice. Keep in mind that if your dog has some joint or hip problems they may not be able to run, so just let them walk up and down the stairs.
- Be aware that sheet ice is slippery for dogs as well as people. Slipping on ice can lead to strains and sprains, so never encourage your dog to play on ice, especially games such as fetch or frisbee.
- Keep dogs away from icy ponds or bodies of water. The ice may look firm, but if the dog falls through he could drown. Unfortunately, people trying to rescue their dogs also drown, so sad as it is never be tempted to try to rescue your dog.
- Keep your dog on a leash when walking in winter. If something happens, such as a snowstorm, the sudden appearance of an ice plow, or if your dog rushes out onto an ice lake and falls in, you won't be able to help or retrieve your bolting or falling dog. Make sure you take a charged up cellphone with you in case you or your dog has a problem, so that you can call for help.
EditProviding Shelter for an Outdoor Dog Over the Winter - Understand your breed's particular susceptibility to the cold. Some dog breeds are more prone to the cold than others, while some breeds are adapted extremely well to the cold. Dogs that do not do well in the cold should not be outdoor dogs. However, even dogs that do well in the cold need warmth and shelter to thrive as outdoor dogs.
- Dogs that are great in the cold include Alaskan Malamutes, Siberian Huskies and Chow Chows.[8]
- Dogs that find it harder include Dobermans, toy dogs, low hair or hairless dogs, and Greyhounds. Any shaven or excessively clipped dog will fall into this category as well because the thick winter coat is a dog's insulation.
- Provide appropriate shelter. It is optimal if your dog can remain indoors throughout winter, going outside for exercising and answering nature's call only. This will ensure that your dog doesn't get cold while you're out or asleep. Young puppies should not be left outside as they don't have the ability of older dogs to keep themselves warm outside.
- If you have an outside dog (such as a sled dog), ensure that it has access to a shelter and bedding inside the shelter. Fresh straw provides a suitable layer of insulation against the cold of the ground for an outside shelter.[9] Be sure to change it regularly though.
- An outdoor dog shelter should have a sloped roof, insulation and heating, especially for very cold climate locations.[10] For rainy winters, ensure that the entrance way is protected so that rain cannot get into the shelter.
- Make sure the shelter is adequately insulated. In an outdoor kennel situation, consider creating a false floor that is lifted 4 - 6 inches off the ground. Place insulating material such as straw or bubble wrap in this gap, to prevent cold radiating up from the ground. You can also use this gap by placing a hot water bottle beneath it to give under floor heating on a particularly cold day.
- On top of the false floor, ensure the dog has plenty of warm bedding. Whilst blankets are good, make sure the dog has deep straw on top of the platform. Provide a minimum of 6 inches of compacted straw, but consider banking it up around the walls, and providing extra loose straw so that the dog can circle around and create a nest to snuggle down into. This will help keep the heat in around the dog's limbs and also reduce drafts.
- Remember, if it's not warm enough for you to spend the night in, then the kennel isn't warm enough for your dog.
- Make sure the shelter protects from the wind. The wind chill factor significantly magnifies the intensity of the cold. Always make sure outside dogs are completely protected from the wind. If they are kenneled, perhaps add porch onto the entrance so that wind into the kennel is reduced, Work out which way the prevailing wind tends to blow, and then face the entrance in the opposite direction. This also gives you the opportunity to put insulation around the kennel, especially on the side the prevailing wind strikes, in order to reduce heat loss. To get an idea of the wind chill factor you can look online for relevant meteorological websites sites.[11]
- Bring all outdoor dogs inside if the cold spell becomes exceptionally cold and long; even a barn is warmer than an outdoor dog shelter. Remember the more layers of insulation you add, the cozier the kennel will be. Consider covering the kennel with an old duvet and then throwing a tarpaulin over that, to help beef up the protection.
- Check the kennel daily to make sure it is dry and there are no leaks in the rough. Wet and cold are far more dangerous than dry cold. Also check the bedding is warm and dry. A dog lying on soiled bedding will quickly develop sores and infected patches of skin.
EditKeeping an Outdoor Dog Warm in the Winter - Ensure that the bedding is warm and well placed. Bedding is an important part of keeping a dog warm through winter. If your dog sleeps on the ground or somewhere with drafts, place the bed up off the floor. You can do this by putting the dog bed on a low platform, raised a few inches off the ground. The object is to stop heat loss by transmission with the ground.
- You can easily improvise a platform with a sheet of hardboard resting on some books or a bricks.
- A custom-made bed with cushioned insert, blankets, and old clothing make good, warm bedding.
- Provide heating on cold nights. This is especially important for old and arthritic dogs. Consider using a heated dog bed or a hot water bottle.[12] Once the dog realizes how nice and snuggly a heated bed feels, most accept it and even look forward to being tucked in at night.[13]
 - Older dogs in particular, stiffen up in the colder weather. Keeping heat in around their joints can greatly aid their comfort. Again, simple things can help, such as placing a thick blanket over the dog once they have settled down for the night.
- If your dog is well past the chewing stage in his life, then look for bags of cherry stones which you can microwave and are designed to keep human joints warm. Following the manufacturer's instructions, heat the bag up in the microwave and lay it over the stiffest or most swollen of the dog's joint, then cover him with a blanket, which will give him extra comfort.[14]
- There are a variety of pet electric blankets or heat mats available, and another type of mat to investigate is a whelping blanket. These are designed to keep young puppies warm and provide a gentle background level of heat which is safe to be lain on for long periods of time. When choosing a heat mat, always carefully read the instructions to see if the pet can lie directly on it without the risk of thermal burns. Some mats designed for veterinary use are not safe to be laid on directly and require that they are covered with a blanket to avoid burns.[15]
- Clean and change bedding regularly. This will reduce fleas, germs, and mess. This is especially important over the winter, when insects look for any warm places they can find.
- Use canine clothing options for particular dogs and situations. Canine clothing can help to keep your dog warm through winter. It is especially good for small or toy dogs, dogs without long hair (for example, whippets and greyhounds), and old or sick dogs.[16] One of the key signs that your dog may need some clothing is if a dog is shivering, just like a human.[17]
- Dog jackets, snuggies, and sweaters can be purchased or made (knit, sew, crochet, or quilt) for any sized dog. For wetter winters, you might like to attach a rainproof layer over the top but make sure that it is breathable.
- Make sure any dog clothing is dry before use. If the dog goes outside in a wet coat, the wind will cause the water to evaporate and drag the dog's body heat with it, thus making it cold. It is a good idea to have several items of clothing so that you can have some in the wash, some drying, and some ready for wear.
- Where possible, remove the clothing when your dog is inside, unless the temperature in the house is very low. If a dog wears clothing all the time it won't feel the benefit when it goes outside.
- Use booties to protect your dog's paws when walking on snow and salt. Salt serves as an irritant on dog paws and snow is very cold. Booties will keep the paws warm and free from salt irritation. However, unless you've trained your dog to accept booties from puppyhood, this can be a bit of battle with some dogs who won't tolerate wearing them.
- If your dog is having difficulty wearing booties, use positive reinforcement training. Put a bootie on one foot, feed a treat, then remove it. Repeat daily and gradually increase the amount of booties until the dog is used to having them put on.[18]
- A hot water bottle can be tucked under a dog's bed to warm it up quickly.
- Keep all outside visits short during very cold temperatures. If you have a dog door, or a way for your dog to come in from the cold, it is still important to monitor the time your dog spends outside in case he is overstaying playtime in the cold.
- If you feel cold, chances are so does your dog. Make sure that where ever you make your dog sleep, you would be warm enough to sleep there too.
- Before putting your dog's sweater on, put it in the dryer for about 10-15 minutes. This allows the sweater to be nice and warm for your dog, allowing instant warmth when he or she gets outside.
- Never keep an indoor dog outdoors during winter. Dogs need time to acclimatize to temperature changes. If you want to house an indoor dog outside over winter, start acclimatizing him or her in autumn so that it gets used to the temperature changes and its coat responds by growing thicker.
- Never leave your dog outside for a long time in freezing temperatures.
- Never leave a dog inside a cold car. When the heater is off and the temperatures drop rapidly, it's like sitting in a freezer, and the air doesn't circulate but stays very cold.
- If your dog does fall into an icy lake or river, call for help. Do not endanger your own life trying to rescue a dog.[19]
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