| How to Remove Primer Posted: 16 Jul 2020 05:00 PM PDT Primer can be incredibly difficult to take off, but with enough force and enough patience, you can usually remove primer from most surfaces. Different surfaces do require different techniques, though, so you should familiarize yourself with each one to approach the problem area correctly. [Edit]Choosing the Right Stripping Agent - Opt for a caustic stripper to remove primer from concrete or brick. Caustic stripper is a thick, gum-like substance that contains lye. A caustic stripper will not remove primer from plastic and it may be alright with wood, but it is perfect for masonry. Pick up a caustic stripper if you want to strip a brick wall, clean up a primer spill on concrete, or strip paint off of a driveway or sidewalk.[1]
- You must neutralize caustic strippers after you've used them, so pick up plenty of white vinegar ahead of time if you're stripping a larger surface area.
- Popular caustic strippers include Betco's Extreme, Bolt Ultra Concentrated, and Fiberlock's NexStrip. This stuff usually comes in a plastic bucket.
- Choose a biochemical paint stripper to clean primer off of wood. Biochemical stripper is the safest option available since it uses plant-based ingredients to erode paint or primer. This makes it the safest option for wood, but it may not be strong enough for metal, concrete, or stronger surfaces.[2]
- This type of stripper is the least likely to damage your surface. If you have primer on a model airplane, piece of art, or some other delicate surface, try using a biochemical stripper first.
- Citri-Strip is probably the most popular biochemical paint stripper, but SmartStrip and Franmar are great options as well. These strippers often come in plastic containers that resemble laundry detergent or insecticide.
- Get heavy-duty solvent for metal, plastic, or to take stubborn primer off. If the primer is especially thick, old, or you have primer on a metal or plastic surface, get a heavy-duty paint stripper. Heavy-duty paint stripper is extremely strong, but it'll get primer off of basically any surface. Keep in mind, this stuff is really toxic so you shouldn't use it unless you have to.[3]
- Heavy-duty solvent will also work on wood or masonry, but this is overkill.
- When it comes to paint strippers, heavy-duty is typically code for high-VOC. VOCs, or volatile organic compounds, are pretty toxic so work in a well-ventilated area and put on safety gear when using this kind of stripper.
- Heavy-duty solvents include Dumond's Peel-Away, Old Masters, and Klean-Strip, which is probably the most popular option. These solvents usually come in an aluminum can.
[Edit]Applying the Stripper - Put on protective eyewear, a dust mask, and thick rubber gloves. Get some protective airtight goggles to keep the fumes out of your eyes. Wear thick rubber gloves over long sleeves to keep the stripper off of your skin. If you're using a caustic or biochemical stripper, put on a dust mask. If you're using heavy-duty solvent, wear a respirator.[4]
- Lay a tarp down if you're stripping primer off of an object or want to keep stripper off of the floor.
- Spread the stripper on the surface with a disposable paintbrush. Open the stripping agent's container and pour it into a paint tray. Grab a cheap, disposable paint brush and dip it into the stripping agent. Spread the stripping agent over the surface using back and forth strokes. If you're stripping wood, apply it in the direction of the grain. Otherwise, go back and forth in any direction to cover the surface.[5]
- Most stripping agents are pretty thick. You may need to reload your brush every 4-5 strokes to keep it from drying out.
- Build up a layer of stripping agent on the primer. Reload your brush as needed and continue spreading the stripping over the surface. Cover every crack, textured surface, or gap in the material to completely cover the primer. Continue spreading the stripper around until you build up a layer of stripper on the surface.[6]
- Heavy-duty solvents typically require thin layers. You won't need to build up more than a layer of stripper on the surface for this agent to be effective.
- Caustic and biochemical strippers often need to be built up in a thicker layer. Read the label to see how thick of a layer you need. Often, you'll need a layer of stripper to remove primer.
- Lay plastic sheeting over the surface if it came with your stripping agent. Some caustic strippers and a few heavy-duty strippers need to be covered with plastic sheets to work the stripper into the material. If your stripping agent came in a kit with plastic sheets, you must use them. To apply these sheets, spread your first sheet out by hand and press it against the surface you're stripping. Smooth it out with your palms and press out any air bubbles. The plastic sheeting will automatically adhere to the surface.[7]
- These sheets force the stripper into pores in the surface material. This is particularly important if you're removing primer from brick.
- Wait 30 minutes to 12 hours for the stripper to soak into the primer. The soaking time is listed on your container, so read the label thoroughly to make sure you don't miss anything. Typically, the stronger the stripping agent, the less time it needs to soak. Wait 30 minutes to 12 hours depending on what the label says to give the stripping agent time to eat away the primer.[8]
- You won't see the primer falling off of the surface or anything. All the stripper does is weaken the primer to make it easier to remove.
[Edit]Scraping and Washing the Surface - Use a paint scraper, putty knife, or razor blade to scrape the primer off. Put all of your protective gear back on. Grab a putty knife or paint scraper if you're removing the stripper from wood or masonry. Opt for a razor blade to peel the stripper off of metal or plastic. Drag the blade of your scraping tool at a 15- to 25-degree angle to the surface to peel the stripper and primer off. Work in vertical or horizontal strips to remove the layers of stripping agent and primer. Continue doing this until the primer and dried out stripping agent is completely gone.[9]
- The stripper will have hardened, so you can work in any order you'd like. You can peel the primer off in vertical or horizontal strips, or work in sections until the surface is entirely clean.
- You may need to use a wire brush after you scrape porous surfaces, like brick or concrete.
- This can take a while if you're removing primer from a larger surface area. Unfortunately, there aren't any easier ways to do this.
- Neutralize the surface in water and vinegar if required by the stripper. Read the label of your stripping agent to see if you need to neutralize the surface when you're done. If you do, fill a spray bottle with 1-part white vinegar and 1-part tap water. Thoroughly spray the surface area with your vinegar mixture to neutralize the acid from the paint stripper. Let the vinegar soak for a minute or two while you get a testing strip out.[10]
- If you have a smaller object, you can soak it in the vinegar solution for 3-5 minutes if you prefer.
- Most heavy-duty and caustic stripping agents need to be neutralized. Most biochemical strippers do not.
- You cannot neutralize the paint stripper with water alone. This will only spread the acidic agent around on the surface.[11]
- Test the surface with a pH testing strip if you neutralized it. Get a pH testing strip and lay it down on a damp portion of the surface you stripped. Let the liquid soak into the strip and wait for the strip to change colors. Use the color-coded reference chart to assess what the pH of your surface is. If it's at, or relatively close to, 7 pH, you're done. If the acidity is still too high, mist, wash, or soak the surface in more water and white vinegar before testing it again.[12]
- Any reading lower than a 6.5 pH is considered too acidic. If the surface has an acidic pH, it means that the stripping agent left a residue behind. Your surface may weaken or discolor over time and you may get acidic residue on your hands if you touch the surface.
- Clean the surface in water or mineral spirits if you didn't neutralize it. If your stripper's container doesn't mention anything about neutralizing it, read the label to see if you need to wash the surface with mineral spirits. If you do, pick up some mineral spirits and rinse the surface with them. Otherwise, use regular tap water to rinse the area. Just hose down the surface or pour water over the material to wash off the remaining stripping agent.[13]
- This is an important safety measure. If you don't neutralize the surface, you must wash it off. If you skip this step, you could end up burning your skin the next time you touch the surface.
- Be careful if you're working with mineral spirits. Wear protective eyewear and a dust mask. If you get any spirits on your hands, wash them thoroughly with soap and water.[14]
- Let the surface air out until it's completely dry. The amount of time it takes for the surface to dry depends on the material. Metal and plastic willy typically dry pretty quickly, but wood and masonry may take up to 24 hours. Just wait until the surface is completely dry before touching it or doing anything else.[15]
- You can open windows, turn fans on, or let an object sit out in the sun to speed this process up.
- For automotive primer, pick up a clay bar from your local automotive store. This is a putty-like product that soaks up primer overspray. Rip the clay bar apart, rub it together in your hands like putty, and rub it into the primer to lift it off.[16]
- If you get primer on your skin, use coconut oil or olive oil to wipe it off.[17]
- If you're working with PVC primer, you can remove purple primer with clear primer. Just pour a can of clear primer on top of the purple primer. Grab a clean cloth and wipe the primer mixture up. The purple PVC primer will absorb into the clear primer and it'll come right off.[18]
[Edit]Warnings - Never use a stripping agent without wearing rubber gloves, protective eyewear, and a dust mask or respirator.[19]
- You must neutralize the surface you removed primer from if you used a high-VOC or caustic stripper.[20]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Choosing the Right Stripping Agent - Caustic stripper
- Biochemical paint stripper
- Heavy-duty paint stripping solvent
[Edit]Applying the Stripper - Protective eyewear
- Rubber gloves
- Long-sleeve clothing
- Dust mask or respirator
- Paint tray
- Paintbrush
- Drop cloth (optional)
- Plastic sheeting (optional)
[Edit]Scraping and Washing the Surface - Paint scraper, putty knife, or razor blade
- Water
- Vinegar
- Mineral spirits or water
- Wire brush (optional)
[Edit]References |
| How to Prepare Soil for Planting Herbs Posted: 16 Jul 2020 09:00 AM PDT Most herbs thrive in light, well-drained soil with a neutral pH and average nutrient levels. If you want to plant your herbs in ideal conditions for the best growth and flavor, test your soil quality in the spring before you start planting anything. If your tests show that the soil's pH, nutrients, or drainage aren't ideal, don't worry! There are plenty of simple amendments you can make to modify your soil and get it ready to produce a healthy crop of herbs. [Edit]Testing and Amending the Soil - Wait until spring and choose a sunny spot for your herb garden. Begin prepping your garden space in the spring once it starts warming up a bit. Since most herbs do best in full sunlight, which is 6-8 hours daily, be sure to select a nice, bright area for your garden.[1]
- The quality and flavor of herbs are best when they're grown in full sun.
- Some herbs may tolerate partial shade, so be sure to check the specifics on each seed packet. For example, angelica, woodruff, sweet cicely, parsley, and mint grow well in partial shade.[2]
- Dig a hole deep and fill it with water to test soil drainage. Grab a shovel and dig a hole that's about deep and wide. Use your hose to fill the hole with water and let it sit overnight to saturate the soil. The following day, fill it up with water again and check the hole every hour to measure the water level as it drains. Ideal soil will drain about per hour.[3]
- Well-drained soil is crucial for growing herbs. If your soil has poor drainage, don't worry! You can amend the soil to make it more hospitable for herbs.
- Typically, loamy and sandy soils work best for herbs. Clay soils tend to be heavy and have poor drainage.[4]
- Some light sandy soils drain too quickly, but you can add organic matter to the soil to improve moisture retention.
- Mix in of organic matter to enrich soil and improve drainage or retention. Shovel and overturn the dirt, breaking up any large clumps as you go. Remove any weeds that you find. Then, add your organic matter to the soil and mix it in well with your shovel or a hoe until it's fully fully incorporated.[5]
- For average soils, use peat moss, coconut husks, or compost to improve the drainage. Mix it into the top of soil thoroughly with a shovel or hoe.[6]
- To improve drainage in clay soils, add of fine pine bark, cracked pea gravel, or coarse compost.
- Improve the moisture retention of light, sandy soils with of fine pine bark, compost, or leaf mold.[7]
- Use a store-bought soil pH test to check for a pH range between 6 and 7. Most herbs do best in neutral soil that is neither too alkaline nor too acidic. Buy a soil pH testing kit at your local nursery and follow the included instructions to measure the pH level of your soil.[8]
- A pH range of 6.5-7 is optimal, but anything between 6 and 7 is neutral enough for most herbs.[9]
- Add agricultural lime or dolomite to the soil if your pH reading was too low. Purchase lime or dolomite at a garden center or nursery. Reference the application ratio on the lime package to see how much to add to your soil. Mix lime into soil and incorporate thoroughly with a spade or tiller.[10]
- You may want to opt for a lighter application of lime if you are unsure which ratio to use. Over-application of lime can be very difficult to correct.
- Wait a few days for the lime to fully incorporate before planting anything.
- You can run another soil test to confirm that the pH is improved.
- Lower the soil's pH by mixing sphagnum peat into the soil. If your soil pH is too high, the easiest way to lower it is by mixing in organic matter like sphagnum peat. Spread a layer of sphagnum peat over your garden plot and work it into the top of soil.[11]
- If you want to make sure pH is in the right range after amending the soil, quickly run another soil test.
- Check the soil's nutrient levels with a store-bought soil test. Your pH test may also test nutrient levels, so be sure to check the test's packaging. If it doesn't, get a separate soil nutrient test at a garden center. Follow the included directions to find out how much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are present in the soil. The test results will show if the soil is low, average, or high in these 3 key nutrients.[12]
- This test doesn't give you an actual score or number. It provides a range from low to high, indicates the ideal level, and tells you where your soil falls on the spectrum.
- Once you know the nutrient levels, you can amend the soil to raise or lower nutrients, as needed.
- If your soil has adequate levels of these 3 nutrients already, you don't need to do anything to reduce nutrient levels. Just be sure to avoid adding fertilizer to the soil during the growing season.[13]
- Apply a fertilizer to replenish any nutrients that your soil needs. If your test shows that the soil lacks nutrients, choose a liquid or granular commercial fertilizer that will replenish it. Start with low strength fertilizers and move up to stronger fertilizers, if needed, according to your soil test results. Always follow the fertilizer's instructions and use the correct amount for your garden size and soil type.[14]
- If you are deficient in just 1 nutrient, buy fertilizer to boost that nutrient without affecting the others.
- You may need another application of fertilizer during the growing season if the herbs aren't doing well. If your herbs are thriving, avoid fertilizing again.
[Edit]Tilling the Soil and Preparing Beds - Moisten the soil in the planting area lightly with a garden hose. Moist soil makes tilling much easier and more effective. You don't need to drench the soil with water so that it turns into mud, though! Just dampen the top of the soil a bit with your garden hose before you dig in with your garden spade or tiller.[15]
- Use a garden spade or tiller to loosen the top of soil. For a small or medium-sized backyard herb garden, you can easily turn the earth manually with a garden spade. Thrust the spade into the ground, scoop up the earth, and turn the spade upside down to break up the soil. Work the soil to a depth of and cover the entire garden area.[16]
- Remove any rocks or hard clods of dirt as you turn the soil over.
- If you're planting a large field of herbs, it might be easier to turn the soil with a tiller.
- Shovel or rake the soil into beds that are high. Raised beds can be helpful if the ground is low, the soil drains poorly, or you live in a wet climate. Rake the soil into rows that are high and as long as you'd like. Then, level the top of each row with a shovel or rake to make the beds about wide.[17]
- You can make your raised beds even more pronounced by framing the planting area with plywood or rocks several inches high. Then, fill the area with soil and plant your herb seeds or seedlings as you normally would.[18]
- Raised beds also increase the soil temperature, which most herbs will love.
- Plant your chosen herbs on top of the prepared beds. Be sure to check the seed packet instructions for details on adequate spacing and depth for each herb type, how often to water the herbs, and so on. Plant the herbs in the center of each bed.[19]
- If you'd prefer to plant seedlings that you bought from a nursery, check for a little flag stuck in each seedling's pot that has planting instructions. You can also look up the herbs online to find planting instructions!
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Garden spade or tiller
- Shovel or hoe
- Soil pH test
- Soil nutrient test
- Herb seeds of your choice
- Organic matter (peat moss, pine bark, compost, well-rotted manure)
- Lime or dolomite (optional)
- Garden spade or tiller
- If you are growing herbs in containers, the soil's nutrients will gradually leach out as you water the pots. You can help improve the soil by adding commercial fertilizer.
- Herbs that thrive in moist soils include: most varieties of mint, lovage, and angelica.
- Plant mint varieties separately from your other herbs since they can be very invasive.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Restore an Old Steering Wheel Posted: 16 Jul 2020 01:00 AM PDT With a little TLC, classic cars can stay in remarkably good shape. Unfortunately, the vintage plastics and composite materials once used to make steering wheels have a tendency to shrink, crack, and crumble with age, which can detract from a vehicle's overall value and visual appeal. The upshot is that with some strong epoxy paste and a bit of patience, restoring a steering wheel to its former glory is a relatively straightforward project. [Edit]Dismounting and Cleaning the Wheel - Disconnect your vehicle's battery if it's still hooked up. Before you get started, make sure your vehicle is safely parked and turned off completely. Pop the hood (or the trunk, as the case may be) and use a socket wrench of the appropriate size to loosen the nuts holding the connector cables to their respective terminals. Undo the negative terminal first, followed by the positive terminal.[1]
- The terminals of most automobile batteries are labelled for ease of identification—"+" stands for positive and "-" stands for negative. On batteries with color-coded terminal covers, red corresponds to positive, while black corresponds to negative.[2]
- If you attempt to disassemble the steering wheel with the battery still connected, the horn may sound unexpectedly and scare you half to death.
- Always disconnect the negative terminal first. Doing it the other way around can lead to sparking, which in the worst case scenario could cause the engine to explode![3]
- Remove the horn ring and mounting nut holding the steering wheel in place. Press down on the horn ring at the center of the wheel and twist it counterclockwise (left) to unscrew it. Use a suitably-sized wrench or socket to loosen the mounting nut beneath. Set both of these pieces aside somewhere you won't accidentally misplace them.[4]
- The horn rings on some older cars are spring-loaded, so turn the ring slowly and keep one hand on it at all times to prevent it from shooting off and disappearing into the cabin of the vehicle.
- It will be much easier for you to work on the wheel while it isn't attached.
- Fit a wheel puller tool onto the center of your steering wheel. Make sure that the device is aligned with the now-open slot in the middle of the wheel. Slip the 2 included fixing bolts through the slots on either side of the body of the puller and into the holes in the face of the steering hub. Tighten both bolts with your wrench or socket by turning them clockwise.[5]
- Make sure the wheel is perfectly centered before you pull it off. That way, you can guarantee that it's in the right position when it comes time to reinstall it.
- Tighten the tool's central bolt to remove the wheel from the steering shaft. Insert the third, larger bolt into the middle of the wheel puller and begin turning it clockwise, the same way you did the smaller fixing bolts. Applying gradual rotational force to the central bolt will cause the wheel to release from its seat, at which point you can simply slide it off.[6]
- In some cases, there may be an additional retaining nut behind the wheel that you'll have to undo before you can finish removing it. Remove this nut the same way you did the upper mounting nut.[7]
- Wipe the wheel with a mixture of warm water and mild liquid dish soap. Wet a soft, lint-free cloth or paper towel with the soap solution and scrub the wheel from top to bottom to remove accumulated dirt and grime. When you're done, saturate a second, clean cloth or paper towel with plain water and go back over the wheel to clear away the remaining soap solution.
- Place the cloth or paper towel in your palm and rotate your hand around the wheel as you go to make sure you're hitting the front and back edges of the wheel, as well.
- Spray the wheel with a paint prep solution and wipe it down a second time. Lay the wheel out on a plastic tarp, canvas dropcloth, or layer of newspapers to work cleanly and efficiently. Wet one side of the wheel with the spray and buff it thoroughly with a separate cloth or paper towel, then turn it over and repeat on the opposite side.[8]
- Pull on a pair of rubber gloves before you start spraying. That way, the oil on your skin won't be transferred to the wheel when you flip it over.[9]
- Paint prep sprays can be found at any automotive supply store. They're designed to cut through stubborn dirt, dust, and grime, as well as residue from leftover grease, wax, silicone, and polishing products.
[Edit]Building up Damaged Areas - Use a triangle file to widen small cracks along the wheel's outer surface. Fit one of the file's angled edges into each crack and run it back and forth using a moderate pressure. This will give the crack a neat, even V-shape, making it easier to fill in with the epoxy paste that you'll be using to rebuild the wheel.[10]
- You can pick up a triangle file at your local hardware store for around $10. They're useful tools to have around, and can come in handy for a variety of repair and restoration projects.
- A dremel tool will also work nicely to open up cracks, chips, gouges, and other worn areas.[11]
- Mix up a strong 2-part epoxy paste or putty. Most products come with separate containers of resin and hardener that form a thick, quick-drying paste when combined. Blend the components according to the instructions laid out on the packaging of the product you're working with.[12]
- You'll find a wide variety of epoxies and similar fillers at any hardware store, home improvement center, or auto supplier.
- You're free to use any type of epoxy that dries to a tough, durable finish. However, the product of choice for many car buffs is PC-7, which has been a staple of automotive restoration projects for over 60 years.[13]
- Fill in the damaged spots along the wheel with the epoxy. Dab the compound into the cracks and crevices using the same tool that you used to mix it. If your chosen product didn't come with its own applicator, wooden popsicle sticks and flexible plastic putty knives can both serve as great makeshift spreaders. Be sure to overfill each area slightly, as most epoxies have a tendency to shrink a bit as they dry. [14]
- One useful technique for applying putty-style epoxies is to pull off small pieces, roll them into thin strips, and press them into the areas you filed out using your fingertips.
- Shape the epoxy until it matches the contours of the steering wheel. If you're working with a paste, use your applicator to carefully distribute the compound and remove any excess, if necessary. Putties can simply be molded by hand. Take your time and work carefully. It's important for the wheel to have a smooth, consistent finish all the way around.[15]
- Don't worry about being too meticulous—you'll be sanding the wheel down to a more consistent texture a little later on.
- Allow the epoxy to dry for at least 24 hours. Under normal conditions, the majority of epoxies will harden to a paintable consistency in about one full day and cure completely within two. Avoid handling the wheel in the meantime. Touching the fresh compound could cause it to lose its shape, ruining all of your hard work.[16]
- Set the wheel on a flat, stable surface draped with a tarp, dropcloth, or layer of newspaper as it dries.
- Once in place, the epoxy will solidify and bond to the wheel, restoring its original structure.
[Edit]Sanding and Priming the Repaired Wheel - Sand the wheel to an even texture using a high-grit sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper around the edge of the wheel and glide it back and forth while applying light-to-moderate pressure. Focus on areas where the dried epoxy has expanded beyond the wheel's outer surface. A good sanding will not only do away with uneven spots but also encourage your cover-up paint to stick better.[17]
- Any sandpaper in the 120-220-grit range will work well for this task.[18]
- A rounded sanding block may make it easier to really dig into the wheel's hard-to-reach contours.
- Switch to an extra fine sandpaper to achieve as smooth a finish as possible. Once you're done with your preliminary sanding, repeat the process with a sheet of sandpaper in the 240-400-grit range. This will gently wear down the roughness of the dried epoxy and surrounding material, leaving the wheel almost as perfect as the day it came off the assembly line.[19]
- Afterwards, wipe the wheel with a damp cloth to remove the dust that's been produced by all the sanding you've been doing.
- Don't skip this second round of sanding. If you do, your finished paint job may not have the smooth, glossy luster that you're going for.
- Prep the wheel with an even coat of urethane-based automotive primer. For maximum efficiency and professional-grade results, load your primer into a high-powered spray gun. If one of these tools is outside your budget, you can also get the job done using an ordinary spray can. Hold your sprayer away from the wheel and wave it back and forth from various angles to coat the entire outer surface. Allow the primer to dry for about one full hour before proceeding.[20]
- Your neighborhood auto supply store should have a large selection of automotive paints and primers to choose from.
- Strap on a facemask or respirator to avoid breathing in harmful fumes. It's also a good idea to park your vehicle outside or open the door to your garage to make sure that your work space is properly ventilated.[21]
[Edit]Painting and Sealing for a Seamless Finish - Spray on your first coat of paint and let it dry for at least 20 minutes. Apply your paint the same way you did the initial primer, positioning your sprayer at a distance of and moving it constantly. This technique will provide the optimum balance between depth of color and distribution.[22]
- Pick out a high-performance enamel or single-stage urethane automotive paint that will hold up to years of regular use. You'll have no shortage of options when it comes to color.[23]
- Remember to wear gloves to keep the color from staining your exposed skin.
- Follow up with 1-4 additional coats, waiting 20 minutes between each. Plan on using a minimum of 2 coats total (though most automotive experts recommend 4-5 total for best results). Layering multiple light coats, as opposed to a slapping on a single heavy coat, will guarantee maximum coverage without creating drips or streaks.[24]
- You may need to increase your drying time slightly as the paint continues to build up. If your later coats still look wet at the 20-minute mark, play it safe and give them 5-10 extra minutes. This will reduce your chances of seeing imperfections in the top coat.
- Apply 1-3 coats of clear sealant to protect the new finish. Hold the can of sealant away from the wheel and everywhere that you've applied new paint. Allot at least 15 minutes of drying time between coats. Once the final coat cures completely, all that's left to do is remount your steering wheel and marvel at how new it looks![25]
- Choose a sealant that's formulated specifically for use on automobile parts and accessories, or the particular type of paint that you're working with.
- Don't forget to reconnect your vehicle's battery upon concluding your project. This time around, start with the positive terminal, then attach the negative terminal.[26]
- At its core, restoring a vintage steering wheel is essentially just like any other painting project: first you'll strip, then you'll prime, and, last but not least, you'll slap on your paint.
- Browse Internet forums, auto restoration blogs, and similar resources for more specific tool and material recommendations, as well as some friendly advice from experienced grease monkeys who have already been around the block a time or two.
[Edit]Warnings - The methods described here won't work for newer leather-wrapped or rubber-coated steering wheels, unless you're willing to remove the old covering entirely.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Adjustable wrench or socket set
- Wheel puller tool
- Warm water
- Mild liquid dish soap
- Spray-on paint prep solution
- Rubber gloves
- Lint-free cloths or paper towels
- Plastic tarp, canvas dropcloth, or newspaper
- Triangle file or dremel tool
- 2-part epoxy paste or putty
- Plastic tarp, canvas dropcloth, or newspaper
- 120-220-grit sandpaper
- 240-400-grit sandpaper
- Urethane-based automotive primer
- High-performance enamel or single-stage urethane automotive paint
- Spray-on clear coat sealant
- Rubber gloves
- Facemask or respirator
- Painter's tape
- Wooden popsicle stick or flexible plastic putty knife (optional)
- Contoured sanding block (optional)
- High-powered paint sprayer (optional)
[Edit]References |
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